The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 819 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: <E36> Occasional ASC light Re: <E36> Occasional ASC light Re: Source for dreaded TRX rubber <E36> ASC Light Re: <E36> ASC Light Re: [E36 M3] NGK Sparkplugs - BKR6EQUP Re: <E36> Occasional ASC light WOT: broken shock on Subaru WRX Re: WOT: broken shock on Subaru WRX Re: WOT: broken shock on Subaru WRX Re: E39: Service Engine Soon Indicator Re: E39: Service Engine Soon Indicator Is there a large maintenance cost difference for an e36 USA M3 over "regular" 3 series? Re: Is there a large maintenance cost difference for an e36 USA M3 over "regular" 3 series? Re: E36M3 Maintenance
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:08:17 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Occasional ASC light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ASC throttle position switch on top of the ASC throttle body could be slighty out of position. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Any idea what would cause the ASC light to come on intermittently? There >doesn't seem to be a pattern to factors which cause the light to come on. >It's a recent occurence. >A Peake scan doesn't show any codes set but I don't expect this to be >engine related. > >-Thanks, Kevin >'99 E36 M3. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 11:03:34 -0400 From: "Steve Stoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> Occasional ASC light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "Any idea what would cause the ASC light to come on intermittently? I know when I first got my 97M3, it was shod with some early Khumos, (circa 2000), and on my twisty, hilly backroad daily commute, I would activate the ASC light constantly. The tires were just so poor from a traction perspecitve. A switch to S-03s cured the problem. Steve Stoner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:39:40 -0700 From: "Ben Dixon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Source for dreaded TRX rubber Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ok guys you made your point and I listened! I will not go further with these overpriced antique tires. I hate to admit it but I knew better. I guess it was the red mist that comes when buying used bmw parts. They will be going back to the PO. I sold my car and the new owner said he would buy them but I just can't pass these off as a good deal knowing what I know. Dang that little small voice;) Oh well better to sleep good at night I guess. Thanks for the advice from all. You guys rock. ben dixon [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Tammer Farid" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 10:14 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] Source for dreaded TRX rubber > Of course. I agree with your post. I was merely discussing some tire > engineering issues. $400 for an old tech tire is silly, but sometimes there > are overriding considerations such as maintaining originality. > > Clearly the Coker tire is a TRX clone intended to look like the original. > > Gary Derian > > > > Granted, but since no one is making modern tires to fit a > > wacky 20-year-old design standard that never became > > standardized, you're stuck with old tech rubber. I think > > it's a bigger problem to drive on them now than it was when > > the cars were new, because people climb out of cars with > > modern tires--and even mediocre ones are better than the > > old Michelins--and into their E28s/E24s which have > > comparatively poor traction. > > > > -tammer > > > > --- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > >> The TRX has a different bead configuration, but nothing > >> about that design > >> limits the adoption of modern tread compounds and belt > >> construction. > >> > >> Of course, Coker is not about technology. > >> > >> Gary Derian > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:48:43 -0400 (EDT) From: "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> ASC Light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin wrote: >Any idea what would cause the ASC light to come on intermittently? There >doesn't seem to be a pattern to factors which cause the light to come on. >It's a recent occurence. >A Peake scan doesn't show any codes set but I don't expect this to be >engine related. What were you doing when it came on? The ASC indicator on my M5 would come on (flash) all the time when it was making adjustments to compensate for a slippery take off. As soon as it had finished its work, the light would go out. Craig Eller BMW CCA Everglades Chapter 97 ///M3 Sedan ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 06:33:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> ASC Light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > What were you doing when it came on? The ASC indicator on my M5 > would come on (flash) all the time when it was making adjustments to > compensate for a slippery take off. Mine lights up whenever I get sideways around a corner. Stupid light! :-) This is embarrassing but I did the entire VIR club race school with the ASC on, not once did it occur to me that I should turn this silly thing off (car is sorta new to me). I kept complaining of fuel starvation exiting turn 1 and entering the lower esses (both right hand turns) so I assumed it was the dreaded E36 fuel starvation. Come to think of it a couple of battles I had during the graduation race wouldn't have been battles had I remembered to turn the stupid thing off. Carlos (stupid me) 98 M3 ______________________________________________________ Yahoo! for Good Donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:52:27 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [E36 M3] NGK Sparkplugs - BKR6EQUP Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Craig, These are the plugs recommended to us and which we put into my son's E36. I believe they are called the power plugs by BMW. Even though the old plugs at 80k miles looked in good shape, we changed them to the NGK's. My son reports the motor is nice and smooth. The NGK's seem to differ from the Bosch in that the ground electrodes don't rise up much beyond the plane of the insulator whereas on the Bosch's the insulator is nested in the electrodes. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:38:47 -0700 From: Greg Cagle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Occasional ASC light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mine did this for a while (98 E36 M3); turned out to be a flaky wheel sensor. - Greg [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Any idea what would cause the ASC light to come on intermittently? There > doesn't seem to be a pattern to factors which cause the light to come on. > It's a recent occurence. > A Peake scan doesn't show any codes set but I don't expect this to be > engine related. > > -Thanks, Kevin > '99 E36 M3. -- Greg Cagle Portland, Oregon gregc at gregcagle dot com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:24:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: WOT: broken shock on Subaru WRX Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This is WOT, but I figure everyone likes to look at pictures of broken parts ... Here's a picture of a friend's broken right rear shock from his Subaru WRX: http://www.devtools.org/rus/mtimages/broken-jic.jpg I'm wondering if anyone can conjecture on the mechanism of breakage. I thought suspensions were carefully designed to constrain movements so the shock shouldn't be experiencing side loads that could cause this. I've advised him to look at the rest of the suspension to make sure some bushing isn't worn out, or that something else isn't broken. Any other ideas? --Andre ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 23:00:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: WOT: broken shock on Subaru WRX Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Good advice Andrew, I agree that he should check the rest of the car's suspension bushings and such... However, from the looks of it, those seem to be aftermarket coilovers, not stock suspension parts. Perhaps they were a fairly cheap quality? If so, tell your friend that cheap for the sake of cheap is never worth it in terms of safety, especially if he drives hard. Better to learn that lesson sooner than later, he'll save more money that way. :) Just my .02, Brian 95 M3 --- Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > This is WOT, but I figure everyone likes to look at > pictures of broken > parts ... > > Here's a picture of a friend's broken right rear > shock from his Subaru > WRX: > > http://www.devtools.org/rus/mtimages/broken-jic.jpg > > I'm wondering if anyone can conjecture on the > mechanism of breakage. I > thought suspensions were carefully designed to > constrain movements so the > shock shouldn't be experiencing side loads that > could cause this. I've > advised him to look at the rest of the suspension to > make sure some > bushing isn't worn out, or that something else isn't > broken. Any other > ideas? > > --Andre > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 09:29:22 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: WOT: broken shock on Subaru WRX Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 10:24 PM 9/28/2005, Andre Yew wrote: Well, McPherson strut designs inherently use the front strut to sustain side-bearing loads. If you ever drop the strut out of a Mac strut car (meaning most modern cars including BMWs), you'll see this as the hub assembly will flop over without the strut's sideways support. That's also why it's called a 'strut' instead of a 'shock.' That said, it looks like perhaps the weld between the strut tube and the lower bracket was done poorly and weakened the metal in that area or something in this case. Most of the damaged struts I've seen are where the shaft gets bent from sideways forces. If as the filename implies that this is a JIC, it was probably a fluke and not a general quality issue, since JIC stuff is generally of quality, though I've heard lesser of their customer service in the US. >This is WOT, but I figure everyone likes to look at pictures of broken >parts ... > >Here's a picture of a friend's broken right rear shock from his Subaru >WRX: > >http://www.devtools.org/rus/mtimages/broken-jic.jpg > >I'm wondering if anyone can conjecture on the mechanism of breakage. I >thought suspensions were carefully designed to constrain movements so the >shock shouldn't be experiencing side loads that could cause this. I've >advised him to look at the rest of the suspension to make sure some >bushing isn't worn out, or that something else isn't broken. Any other >ideas? > >--Andre > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 10:06:57 -0400 From: Felix Vicente <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E39: Service Engine Soon Indicator Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I have been chasing a problem in a 99 540. As the subject says, I have > been getting the Service Engine Soon indicator on the dash. Using one > of the OBDII scan tools the code reads (and has always read) P0171, > System Too Lean (Bank 1). At this point I have changed both front O2 Do you have a slightly lumpy cold idle as well? Check the intake manifold gasket (or have it checked.) Our 740 threw that code (along with the bumpy idle) and that was the culprit. On the E36 water pumps: I thought the cut-off was 10/96 based on an old, old, old post from Brett. Either way, if you haven't replaced it in 9 years, plastic or metal, it's about frikin' time. -felix Miami,fl 01 540/6 98 740 95 525 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 08:17:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Felix Vicente <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E39: Service Engine Soon Indicator Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Felix Vicente <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I have been chasing a problem in a 99 540. As the subject says, I have > > been getting the Service Engine Soon indicator on the dash. Using one > > of the OBDII scan tools the code reads (and has always read) P0171, > > System Too Lean (Bank 1). At this point I have changed both front O2 > > Do you have a slightly lumpy cold idle as well? Check the intake manifold > gasket (or have it checked.) Our 740 threw that code (along with the bumpy > idle) and that was the culprit. > > On the E36 water pumps: I thought the cut-off was 10/96 based on an old, > old, old post from Brett. Not exactly...I think he actually said something like 4/96 and before is plastic, 6/96 and onward is metal, month of 5/96 is anyone's guess. (searching....) http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg03128.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg03120.html Well, he didn't say that exactly from what I found, but that is what has been determined over the years. > Either way, if you haven't replaced it in 9 years, > plastic or metal, it's about frikin' time. Agreed :-) Later, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 17:08:14 +0100 (BST) From: aaron b <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Is there a large maintenance cost difference for an e36 USA M3 over "regular" 3 series? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm sorry for posting yet another question, I've tried to research this myself but have drawn a blank. I wasn't aware until yesterday that the E36 M3 seems to have a different engine in the USA, apparently an M50 (or M52?) motor vs the S52 it got in europe. Apologies if I have my numbers mixed up but hopefully that makes some sense at least. I've heard of the european M cars requiring a lot of maintenance, and having increased parts/servicing costs also, over a non-M 3 series. I'd love to own an M3, and since learning of the chassis subframe mount issues that can affect regular 3's, combined with the fact that the USA M3 has a slightly less exotic (if that's the right word) engine, my preliminary findings have been that as far as buying the car & insuring it go, something like a 1997 M3 will cost around the same as say a 1999 323i. My question is though, does an e36 USA spec M3 need more frequent or specialist servicing than say a 328i? A lot of the cars I've seen advertised have been higher milage (100-140k), is it a bad idea to go for a higher milage M? I really don't want to set myself up for expensive repairs soon after purchasing. Once again, many thanks for any info on this. ___________________________________________________________ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 09:46:17 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Is there a large maintenance cost difference for an e36 USA M3 over "regular" 3 series? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Not really. The main reason the Euro motors are slightly more in need of maint is that they use solid lifters. I would expect the costs to maintain a M3 vs a non-M in the US will come down to the difference in brake pads, rotors, suspension bits. The M3 comes with a reinforced subframe so that worry is about gone, but still check it. IRRC for engine nomenclature US S50B30 US for the 95s, S52B32 for the 96+ Euro S50B30 up to 96, S50B32 for >96 besides the block configuration there is actually very little in common between the US and Euro motors. Pistons/rods etc all have different p/ns. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of aaron b Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 9:08 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] Is there a large maintenance cost difference for an e36 USA M3 over "regular" 3 series? I'm sorry for posting yet another question, I've tried to research this myself but have drawn a blank. I wasn't aware until yesterday that the E36 M3 seems to have a different engine in the USA, apparently an M50 (or M52?) motor vs the S52 it got in europe. Apologies if I have my numbers mixed up but hopefully that makes some sense at least. I've heard of the european M cars requiring a lot of maintenance, and having increased parts/servicing costs also, over a non-M 3 series. I'd love to own an M3, and since learning of the chassis subframe mount issues that can affect regular 3's, combined with the fact that the USA M3 has a slightly less exotic (if that's the right word) engine, my preliminary findings have been that as far as buying the car & insuring it go, something like a 1997 M3 will cost around the same as say a 1999 323i. My question is though, does an e36 USA spec M3 need more frequent or specialist servicing than say a 328i? A lot of the cars I've seen advertised have been higher milage (100-140k), is it a bad idea to go for a higher milage M? I really don't want to set myself up for expensive repairs soon after purchasing. Once again, many thanks for any info on this. ___________________________________________________________ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 11:55:51 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E36M3 Maintenance Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You're correct that the US engine is not as exotic as the European engine. It also makes a lot less power, though plenty for the US. Subframe issues in the regular threes can be a function of improper maintenance. let the bushings get sloppy, and they can tear the back apart . Also more prevalent in tracked cars. The more expensive maintenance items on the Ms will be brakes (bigger rotors and pads) and tires. Most of the other work is fairly similar. My M50 325 lasted 230k miles with "normal" wear and tear (if you count 70 track days as normal). It sounds (from digest traffic) like the Ms are more apt to need Vanos rebuilding than the regular 3s (?!) other than that, they seem identical, so typical E36 maladies apply: Water pump, radiator, thermostat and coolant sensor every 60k-75k trailing arm bushings every 60k Rear shock mounts every 50k unless you go to aftermarket. Front control arms every 90k (?), probably sway bar links about the same time. fluids and plugs every 20-30k Shocks said to go bad after 50k, though Mine feel OK at 67. Konis are a nice replacement, though you have to rebild front struts since they only provide inserts. Oil whenever your inner voice tells you to (varies from 3k-10k) window regulators Power steering hoses can leak Clutch will depend on the owner's maturity. 150k is probably a ood life span, and the throw out bearing may go out first depending on which bad habits Previous owner had. + Shift kit when you get bored + Recaro SRDs are a nice upgrade + stereos are thought to have "tinny" sound. Unfortunately you need to plug in an Amp AND speakers to get reasonable effect. Best bet is to replace the whole thing if you feel that strongly. plan on Snow tires if you're anywhere near the snow belt. 235s are really onforgiving in the slightest of snow squalls. Looks like a long list, but the guts of the car are solid. Bright side is you're replacing these parts when other car owners are replacing their cars. 100k is a reasonable target for a lot of brands IMO, 200k is a reasonabel target for relatively few. Also the E36M3 will continue to amuse for years to come. The 1997 and 1998 4 Doors are very versatile. Look for a folding seat. Use Auto trader to get a good sense of price ranges and be willing to travel to get to the right specimen. The BMW Car Club of America will have very nicely maintained and customized specimens for premium prices. Happy Hunting. Marc Plante 1997 E36M3/4 67k 2005 Child (3 weeks and counting) Vienna, VA ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
