The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 817 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Source for dreaded TRX rubber
  Re: Source for dreaded TRX rubber
  Re: Source for dreaded TRX rubber
  Re: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
  E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
  Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
  Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
  Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
  Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
  Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
  e36/46 major parts replacement intervals?
  Re: e36/46 major parts replacement intervals?
  E38 Key Remote battery replacement
  Re: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
  Re: mileage rollback possible?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 10:04:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Source for dreaded TRX rubber
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Granted, but since no one is making modern tires to fit a
wacky 20-year-old design standard that never became
standardized, you're stuck with old tech rubber.  I think
it's a bigger problem to drive on them now than it was when
the cars were new, because people climb out of cars with
modern tires--and even mediocre ones are better than the
old Michelins--and into their E28s/E24s which have
comparatively poor traction.

-tammer

--- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The TRX has a different bead configuration, but nothing
> about that design
> limits the adoption of modern tread compounds and belt
> construction.
> 
> Of course, Coker is not about technology.
> 
> Gary Derian


                
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:14:39 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Tammer Farid" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Source for dreaded TRX rubber
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Of course.  I agree with your post.  I was merely discussing some tire 
engineering issues.  $400 for an old tech tire is silly, but sometimes there 
are overriding considerations such as maintaining originality.

Clearly the Coker tire is a TRX clone intended to look like the original.

Gary Derian


> Granted, but since no one is making modern tires to fit a
> wacky 20-year-old design standard that never became
> standardized, you're stuck with old tech rubber.  I think
> it's a bigger problem to drive on them now than it was when
> the cars were new, because people climb out of cars with
> modern tires--and even mediocre ones are better than the
> old Michelins--and into their E28s/E24s which have
> comparatively poor traction.
>
> -tammer
>
> --- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> The TRX has a different bead configuration, but nothing
>> about that design
>> limits the adoption of modern tread compounds and belt
>> construction.
>>
>> Of course, Coker is not about technology.
>>
>> Gary Derian


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 14:47:38 -0500
From: "BMWBits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Gary Derian'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "'Tammer Farid'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Source for dreaded TRX rubber
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I think Coker actually buys the 'rights to produce' old tires AND the
original  molds from the mfr . They then produce very small qtys of
tires for the Old and Limited Production collector market .
Bill P 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Derian
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:15 PM
To: Tammer Farid; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [UUC] Source for dreaded TRX rubber


Of course.  I agree with your post.  I was merely discussing some tire 
engineering issues.  $400 for an old tech tire is silly, but sometimes
there 
are overriding considerations such as maintaining originality.

Clearly the Coker tire is a TRX clone intended to look like the
original.

Gary Derian


> Granted, but since no one is making modern tires to fit a wacky 
> 20-year-old design standard that never became standardized, you're 
> stuck with old tech rubber.  I think it's a bigger problem to drive on

> them now than it was when the cars were new, because people climb out 
> of cars with modern tires--and even mediocre ones are better than the
> old Michelins--and into their E28s/E24s which have
> comparatively poor traction.
>
> -tammer
>
> --- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> The TRX has a different bead configuration, but nothing about that 
>> design limits the adoption of modern tread compounds and belt
>> construction.
>>
>> Of course, Coker is not about technology.
>>
>> Gary Derian

Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]


________________________________________________________________________
__
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 .
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:49:16 -0400
From: marty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'm not sure what battery you need but I took my E36 remote to a local 
Batteries Plus with the same sort of questions.  They took it apart and 
replaced the battery for the price of the battery.  Mine took a little 
12v barrel-shaped battery.

go to http://www.batteriesplus.com/ and enter your zipcode (if you're in 
the US) to see if there is a store near you.

hope that helps,
marty

Dean Boucouras wrote:

> The battery is becoming a bit weak in the key remote to my 1999 740i 
> Sport.
> Upon initial examination, I did not find a quick way to take the key 
> apart
> to check and see what type of battery I need to purchase to replace 
> the weak
> battery.
>
> What type of battery do I need to purchase?
> Where can I buy one?
> How do I replace the weak battery?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Dean
>
> Search the 
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________ 
>
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:33:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi Guys,

Been away from the boards for a while, but both my 1997 ///M3 Sedan (Feb. 1997 
build)  and I are alive and well.  With 71,000 on the ticker, I am getting 
concerned about the dreaded plastic impeller water pump failure.  Rumor has it 
that BMW went to a metal impeller version sometime in 1997.  Question is: when 
did they do it? Does anybody know a paticular build date that the started using 
the metal version.   Hate to replace a perfectly good water pump if I don't 
need to.  TIA.

Craig Eller
BMWCCA Everglades Chapter
97 ///M3 Sedan


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 12:14:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected]
Subject: Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

--- "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Been away from the boards for a while, but both my 1997 ///M3 Sedan
> (Feb. 1997 build)  and I are alive and well.  With 71,000 on the
> ticker, I am getting concerned about the dreaded plastic impeller
> water pump failure.  Rumor has it that BMW went to a metal impeller
> version sometime in 1997.  Question is: when did they do it? Does
> anybody know a paticular build date that the started using the metal
> version.   Hate to replace a perfectly good water pump if I don't
> need to.  TIA.

I did, as well as the radiator in my Oct. build '98 M3 but then again I
knew that 3 track events were coming up and I didn't trust the original
parts.  Yeah the water pump I took out had a metal impeller and since
the new pump was plastic that's what the car got.  The radiator I
replaced with a Zionsville aluminum one.

I kept the two working old parts as spares.  :-)

-Carlos.

__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 12:29:33 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

     'Jack is 7/97 production and came with metal.  At 71k miles, good 
idea to replace the pump, belt, thermostat (switch to lower 
temeperature),  lower temperature fan switch, and metal thermostat 
housing.  Maybe the radiator too since they suffer broken necks like 
clockwork at 99k miles.  Leave off the mechanical fan, the electric fan 
running off the cooler switch is more than enough.
     The replacement pump I got is  Spanish made with a single piece 
cast bronze impellor. Imho its not worth risking an overheated engine to 
save half pound of rotating mass.
     Keep the old parts for spares.
Barry


C. Craig Eller wrote:

>Hi Guys,
>
>Been away from the boards for a while, but both my 1997 ///M3 Sedan (Feb. 1997 
>build)  and I are alive and well.  With 71,000 on the ticker, I am getting 
>concerned about the dreaded plastic impeller water pump failure.  Rumor has it 
>that BMW went to a metal impeller version sometime in 1997.  Question is: when 
>did they do it? Does anybody know a paticular build date that the started 
>using the metal version.   Hate to replace a perfectly good water pump if I 
>don't need to.  TIA.
>
>Craig Eller
>BMWCCA Everglades Chapter
>97 ///M3 Sedan
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
>  
>

-- 
The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh.
   I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off and 
use a Mac. "  Author Unknown
   Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product.
          -- Ferenc Mantfeld 


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 15:29:17 -0500
From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected]
Subject: Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> clockwork at 99k miles.  Leave off the mechanical fan, the electric fan
> running off the cooler switch is more than enough.

> cast bronze impellor. Imho its not worth risking an overheated engine to
> save half pound of rotating mass.

Hmmm, is it worth it or not?

--
Jamie Howton
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 00:12:53 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "JKerouac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> > clockwork at 99k miles.  Leave off the mechanical fan, the electric fan
> > running off the cooler switch is more than enough.
>
> > cast bronze impellor. Imho its not worth risking an overheated engine to
> > save half pound of rotating mass.

I highly doubt that use of the water pump metal impeller versus a composite
impeller is about weight savings, nor do I believe that the difference is
1/2 lb.  Regardless, either material can be made to work properly, clearly
BMW didn't get it right on their initial E36 effort.

Later,

Rich



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 14:54:10 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

With a 1997, you probably have a metal impellor.  I'd still recommend a new 
water pump, radiator replacement, and while you're in there, you may as well 
put in a fresh thermostat and coolant sensor.

This may be deemed as overly conservative, but if you use your car for longer 
drives or use it on the track, then avoiding a catastrophic radiator failure or 
water pump failure is worth the prophylactic work.  It's also easier and 
cheaper if you go after it proactively since you don't have collateral damage 
than you can get when these things go.  The other bits are just easier to get 
at while you have the coolant out of the system.  Since I use my car on the 
track, I'm going to be on a regimen of doing mine every 60-70k miles.

If you need to prioritize, I'd at least consider doing the radiator if you 
haven't done one already.  That plastic neck is likely getting brittle after 8 
years.  

Marc Plante
1997 E36 M3/4 67k (all fresh cooling bits)
2005 child (3 weeks and counting)
Vienna, VA

----- Original Message -----

> Question is: when did they do it? Does 
> anybody know a paticular build date that the started using the 
> metal version.   Hate to replace a perfectly good water pump if I 
> don't need to.  TIA.



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 01:43:24 +0100 (BST)
From: aaron b <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: e36/46 major parts replacement intervals?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Could anyone please give me a brief rundown of what
large/expensive items these cars (e36/46, non M
variants) may need replacing at certain milages?

I've found data on when inspection I/II & oil service
needs to be done, but I'm wondering if there's any
known items such as timing chain, clutch etc.

Ideally I'd like to avoid buying a vehicle which will
need some large expensive service very soon after I
buy it, or alternatively if there are known large
items, I can hopefully see from reciepts whether these
items have been changed.

Many thanks in advance for any help.


        
        
                
___________________________________________________________ 
Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail 
http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:57:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: e36/46 major parts replacement intervals?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I can only talk about the ones I've experienced on my 2000 E46 328Ci:

1. Rear subframe tear.  The driver's side rear subframe mount tears out of
the chassis.  BMW claims this was due to weaker sheet metal in 2000-2001
cars.  The repair reinforces this area.  I believe Turner also has a
reinforcement kit.

2. Window regulators fail, sometimes more than once.  When the dealer
replaces it, make sure they put the vapor seal back correctly otherwise
your car will be flooded the next time it rains.  This flooding is
apparently not an uncommon problem. 

3. Engine thermostat fails.  There may have been recalls on this, but I
forget.

4. Sunroof rail guides break, so the sunroof remains closed.

5. The mousefur lining trim on the inside along the door tends to fall
off.  Some 3M weatherstripping glue will fix it.

6. There have been reports of rear sway bar mounts breaking, even on stock
models, but this doesn't seem to be a common thing.

7. The rear shock mounts die.

8. The control arm bushings and other various suspension bushing parts
seem to wear out very quickly.

The engine and transmission so far seem quite solid.

--Andre



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 22:32:21 -0500
From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

There is no battery swap possible if it is the new style key (colored
roundel in the middle as the lock button, unlock towards the business end,
trunk unlock towards the key ring end).  Check your manual to be sure.
The key is charged while it is in the ignition.  I believe the manual
recommends swapping keys at least once a year if both keys are not used
regularly.  If the battery does go dead, bimmerforums (find the link from
e38.org) lists a procedure to reprogram the key once it has been charged.

I assume you are basing weakness on distance?  Sometimes, my key unlocks
from about 50 ft away, sometimes only from about 10.  I believe the antenna
for E38s is in the left side B pillar.

Andy
01 740iS

  E38 Key Remote battery replacement
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 06:24:25 -0400
From: "Dean Boucouras" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The battery is becoming a bit weak in the key remote to my 1999 740i Sport.
Upon initial examination, I did not find a quick way to take the key apart
to check and see what type of battery I need to purchase to replace the weak
battery.

What type of battery do I need to purchase?
Where can I buy one?
How do I replace the weak battery?

Thanks in advance,

Dean



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 23:44:20 -0400
From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

99 should have a replaceable battery.   Pry the small cover off the back of
the key, remove the two small Phillips screws and the back cover from the
key.  Battery is part number 51 21 8 354 417.  It's a CR something or
another, standard battery, but it's simpler for us to buy them from the
dealer so I haven't taken notes on the generic number.  Basically an
oversized watch battery.

If you don't change it within 60 seconds, you will lose the remote
synchronization and have to initialize both remote keys again according to
the owners manual instructions.

Brett Anderson
KMS - Koala Motorsport
www.bmwdiffs.com
440 564 7574
9988 Kinsman Rd
Novelty, OH 44072
(Near Cleveland)

> -----Original Message-----
> The battery is becoming a bit weak in the key remote to my 1999
> 740i Sport.
> Upon initial examination, I did not find a quick way to take the key apart
> to check and see what type of battery I need to purchase to
> replace the weak
> battery.
>
> What type of battery do I need to purchase?
> Where can I buy one?
> How do I replace the weak battery?




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 01:20:09 -0400
From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: mileage rollback possible?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

No US BMW dealer can manipulate mileage via their diagnostic equipment.

BMW NA has the ability to manipulate mileage, at least on E36, but of
course, given the Federal legal implications, they're way above board.

There are many European or Asian based software's available that can
manipulate the mileage.  It's a Federal offence in the US to own such
software.

So, to answer the original question, it's possible to change the mileage,
but the particular item that was being looked at was a scam from the onset,
regardless of mileage, the car doesn't exist.

For those who think that it does, or those who just placed their order, I
have just taken possession of ownership title to the Brooklyn Bridge.
$7600, delivered, within the contiguous US.  Insured delivery, via UPS, one
brick at a time.  Guaranteed......



Brett Anderson
KMS - Koala Motorsport
www.bmwdiffs.com
440 564 7574
9988 Kinsman Rd
Novelty, OH 44072
(Near Cleveland)



> -----Original Message-----
> First off, let me state I am not looking to have the mileage on my car (or
> anyone's car I know) rolled back.
>
> A non-BMW friend at work came across a likely scam on eBay today.  Typical
> offshore stuff, but we started talking about the mileage of the
> car ... 2004
> MY 330i with about 15k.  Seems reasonable, but since the guy was asking
> $7500 for the car, he wondered if the mileage had been rolled
> back which led
> us to the question -> is it possible to roll back the mileage of a late
> model BMW?
> Obviously, it would take a shady dealership or someone with access to the
> GT1 system to reprogram the instrument cluster, but I wonder if it is even
> possible to either roll back the cluster (ie, cluster reads
> 14,884 miles and
> does not allow any readings less than that during reprogram) or,
> in the case
> of cluster replacement, ECU logs mileage and does not allow the cluster to
> read less than what is stored in the ECU memory.
>
> Like I said, I'm not looking to have it done; just wondering if
> it was even
> possible with all the electronic checks that may be possible with all the
> different modules on board.




------------------------------

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