The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 792 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <misc> Stop&Go Tire Plugger? Re: <misc> Stop&Go Tire Plugger? Re: FS '03 325, Moving Must Sell <E36> M3 pass. seat squeaks and Leatherique Re: <E36> M3 pass. seat squeaks and Leatherique Re: <E36> M3 pass. seat squeaks and Leatherique Re: <E36> M3 pass. seat squeaks and Leatherique Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Re: Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Re: Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Re: Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Re: Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Couple of interesting items <FS> 2002 M5 Re: <e36> fails new smog test
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 13:58:16 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <misc> Stop&Go Tire Plugger? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Came outside to another damn flat today (nail in the center of the tread, easily plugged for now). Was discussing same with a buddy... and he mentioned this: http://www.stopngo.com/plugger.htm Anybody got any experience (good or bad)? - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 35K, bone stock ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 15:18:14 -0500 From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <misc> Stop&Go Tire Plugger? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I carry one of those kits on the motorcycles but I have (knock on wood) not had to use it yet. Folks I ride with have and say it works fine. But this is just a temporary fix until you can get an inside plug installed, so I don't know why you would bother for a car. I carry a "TruckAir" compressor in the cars and it can inflate a tire very quickly - and 99% of the time the leaks are slow and the tire is fine to drive on - to a tire shop or service station. So I just air it up and then drive to get it fixed. On the 1% where the leak is too fast or the tire is ruined then I would put on the spare (if so equipped) or have the car flat-bedded to the tire shop. If I were desperate and had a fast leak, I would try some of the goop from a BMW mobility kit or Slime or whatever I could find. Dennis At 01:58 PM 08/31/2005 -0500, Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote: >Came outside to another damn flat today (nail in the center of the tread, >easily plugged for now). Was discussing same with a buddy... and he mentioned >this: http://www.stopngo.com/plugger.htm Anybody got any experience (good >or bad)? > >- Kevin Jay > '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too > '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 35K, bone stock > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 14:08:52 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: FS '03 325, Moving Must Sell Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This reminds me a bit of one of my favorite all-time car ads, which Bill Howard highlighted in his End Piece column many years ago. The owner claimed that the car had never been "smoked or flatulated in". Anyway, John, is your 325 an i, a Ci, a CiC, an Xi or a Sport Wagon? Not that I'm interested, but it would be nice to include that info in your post. Not that one couldn't figure it out with a handy dandy VIN decoder, if they to have one and know where to find it. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 19:24:38 -0500 >From: "John Barbian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[email protected]> >Subject: FS '03 325, Moving Must Sell >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Moving out of the country, must sell! > >WBABN33483PC99985 >35K miles >This car is adult driven, dealer serviced and always garaged. >Sport Package, Dark Green Metallic with tan interior >No pets, no kids, no smoking in this car. >Must sell, moving out of the country! Make Offer! > >24,000 >The car is located in Madison, WI >608.334.9306 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 17:33:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: <E36> M3 pass. seat squeaks and Leatherique Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My passenger seat squeaks while driving on bumpy roads. I assume it's the seat back? What sort of grease should I use to lube it up? Also, where can I buy some Leatherique? My driver's outer seat bolster is getting pretty beat up, and is peeling. I think I might have to get it redyed at the very least. Would like to condition the rest of the seats to keep this from occurring to them too. Thanks, Brian 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 23:44:24 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> M3 pass. seat squeaks and Leatherique Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Also, where can I buy some Leatherique? My driver's > outer seat bolster is getting pretty beat up, and is > peeling. I think I might have to get it redyed at the > very least. Would like to condition the rest of the > seats to keep this from occurring to them too. Hmm, that is a tough one, where to buy Leatherique... .... how about this place: www.leatherique.com :-) Later, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 09:43:32 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> M3 pass. seat squeaks and Leatherique Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [UUC] <E36> M3 pass. seat squeaks and Leatherique > My passenger seat squeaks while driving on bumpy > roads. I assume it's the seat back? What sort of > grease should I use to lube it up? Is it the actual seat mechanism, or is it the leather rubbing against the center console? I've had good results in de-squeaking many cars by applying the fuzzy side of velcro sheeting to the plastic contact point. With a black-console M3, the black velcro is practically invisible. You can buy the big sheets of velcro at the large home improvement stores (remember when they were "hardware stores"?) such as Home Depot or Lowes. > Also, where can I buy some Leatherique? I got mine directly from the UPS driver. Granted, it was precipitated by a call to the phone number I found at www.leatherique.com. Haven't used it yet. - Rob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:07:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> M3 pass. seat squeaks and Leatherique Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > My passenger seat squeaks while driving on bumpy > > roads. I assume it's the seat back? What sort of > > grease should I use to lube it up? > > Is it the actual seat mechanism, or is it the > leather rubbing against the > center console? Both, Actually. ;) Should have been more clear on that. > I've had good results in de-squeaking many cars by > applying the fuzzy side > of velcro sheeting to the plastic contact point. > With a black-console M3, > the black velcro is practically invisible. Hrm, I'm sure that would work, but why does the seat squeak anyway? Would it have done it when the car was new? I was looking closely at the bolster where it rubs on the center console, and I noticed only the passenger side rubs, the driver's side is about 2mm away from the console, so it never rubs. Maybe I can readjust the passenger seat in the floor pan so it doesn't touch either? > > Also, where can I buy some Leatherique? Rob said: "I got mine directly from the UPS driver. Granted, it was precipitated by a call to the phone number I found at www.leatherique.com. Haven't used it yet." then Rich said: "Hmm, that is a tough one, where to buy Leatherique... .... how about this place: www.leatherique.com :-)" *********************** and Tom Wyatt said: "hard to believe, buth their site for ordering (at a discount nonetheless) is: http://www.leatherique.com/"; Heheh...jerks! ;) I had seen that site previously but I guess I was expecting something a bit more corporate looking than a Microsoft Word web page template. :-P Thanks guys. Brian 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 21:58:16 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject car: '91 E30 325i Idle was fine. Went to shop for an Inspection I. Came back with rough idle. Checked for vacuum leaks (replace intake boot - cracked - and vacuum hose from valve cover to throttle body - cracked when I got done with it!). Still rough idle. Returned car to shop. Shop used "smoke" to check for vacuum leaks - none. Re-checked everything done in the Inspection I, including plug gap - no problems. Re-adjusted the valves, but this time did them warm instead of cold (using the appropriate spec for warm adjustment). Idle was about 90% smoother after the valve adjustment. This is just the second time we've had the valves adjusted on this car since we've owned it. But we've had other E30s with M20 motors since 1992, and both of them have had their valves adjusted cold. None of them ended up with a rough idle due to the valve adjustment. So I'm just curious, what is the theory on valve adjustments? Like, the idle is rough with a looser adjustment? With a tighter adjustment? (This would be my guess, one or more valves not seating all the way.) What would I try to do if I decided I wanted to get rid of the other 10% of roughness? TIA for any info on this. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 09:08:57 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> When warm, the engine expands and the clearances loosen. The problem with a warm adjustment is the engine is never at the same temperature throughout the procedure. Adjust cold. For a smoother idle, increase the gap slightly, say from 0.010 to 0.011 or 0.012 inch. Gary Derian > Subject car: '91 E30 325i > > Idle was fine. Went to shop for an Inspection I. Came back with > rough idle. Checked for vacuum leaks (replace intake boot - cracked - > and vacuum hose from valve cover to throttle body - cracked when I got > done with it!). Still rough idle. Returned car to shop. > > Shop used "smoke" to check for vacuum leaks - none. Re-checked > everything done in the Inspection I, including plug gap - no problems. > Re-adjusted the valves, but this time did them warm instead of cold > (using the appropriate spec for warm adjustment). Idle was about 90% > smoother after the valve adjustment. > > This is just the second time we've had the valves adjusted on this car > since we've owned it. But we've had other E30s with M20 motors since > 1992, and both of them have had their valves adjusted cold. None of > them ended up with a rough idle due to the valve adjustment. > > So I'm just curious, what is the theory on valve adjustments? Like, > the idle is rough with a looser adjustment? With a tighter > adjustment? (This would be my guess, one or more valves not seating > all the way.) What would I try to do if I decided I wanted to get rid > of the other 10% of roughness? > > TIA for any info on this. > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 08:58:46 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Thu, Sep 01, 2005 at 09:08:57AM -0400, Gary Derian wrote: > When warm, the engine expands and the clearances loosen. The problem > with a warm adjustment is the engine is never at the same temperature > throughout the procedure. Adjust cold. For a smoother idle, increase > the gap slightly, say from 0.010 to 0.011 or 0.012 inch. I agree with Gary (surprise). I did my valves a little tight last time and the idle got bumpy. I like it though. That and a lightweight flywheel makes me feel like I got a big V8 burbling away up there. (until I step on the gas) -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:49:44 -0400 From: CsWs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On 9/1/05, John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Thu, Sep 01, 2005 at 09:08:57AM -0400, Gary Derian wrote: > > When warm, the engine expands and the clearances loosen. The problem > > with a warm adjustment is the engine is never at the same temperature > > throughout the procedure. Adjust cold. For a smoother idle, increase > > the gap slightly, say from 0.010 to 0.011 or 0.012 inch. > > I agree with Gary (surprise). I did my valves a little tight last time > and the idle got bumpy. I like it though. That and a lightweight > flywheel makes me feel like I got a big V8 burbling away up there. > (until I step on the gas) Add a cam and get the head ported and polished... more burbling and slightly more like an 8. Well not really but we can dream :) -- Karl #747KP http://www.elephantmotorsports.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 10:08:38 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Effect of Valve Adjustment on Idle? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Another caveat about warm valve adjustments and setting tight clearances is the risk of ending up with a burnt valve. Barry Gary Derian wrote: > When warm, the engine expands and the clearances loosen. The problem > with a warm adjustment is the engine is never at the same temperature > throughout the procedure. Adjust cold. For a smoother idle, increase > the gap slightly, say from 0.010 to 0.011 or 0.012 inch. > Gary Derian > >> Subject car: '91 E30 325i >> Idle was fine. Went to shop for an Inspection I. Came back with >> rough idle. Checked for vacuum leaks (replace intake boot - cracked - >> and vacuum hose from valve cover to throttle body - cracked when I got >> done with it!). Still rough idle. Returned car to shop. >> Shop used "smoke" to check for vacuum leaks - none. Re-checked >> everything done in the Inspection I, including plug gap - no problems. >> Re-adjusted the valves, but this time did them warm instead of cold >> (using the appropriate spec for warm adjustment). Idle was about 90% >> smoother after the valve adjustment. >> This is just the second time we've had the valves adjusted on this car >> since we've owned it. But we've had other E30s with M20 motors since >> 1992, and both of them have had their valves adjusted cold. None of >> them ended up with a rough idle due to the valve adjustment. >> So I'm just curious, what is the theory on valve adjustments? Like, >> the idle is rough with a looser adjustment? With a tighter >> adjustment? (This would be my guess, one or more valves not seating >> all the way.) What would I try to do if I decided I wanted to get rid >> of the other 10% of roughness? >> TIA for any info on this. >> Scott Miller >> GGC BMW CCA > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 07:49:16 +0100 From: nick brearley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Couple of interesting items Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Two links that might be of interest: http://uucurl.com/x.php?p=1261 Start lobbying BMWNA right away... http://uucurl.com/x.php?p=1262 Mostly non BMW but still thought provoking, BMW snippet at the end. Nick Brearley ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 10:29:20 -0500 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW List" <[email protected]> Subject: <FS> 2002 M5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I REALLY need to sell this car. I bought it to drive this summer, and it has to go off my line of credit. It's an 02 M5, black on black, 55k miles, nappa lux interior option (not the two tone, this is stitched ribbed leather everywhere, even on dash), park distance, tire pressure monitoring, navigation, sport, traction, split rear seats, premium sound, heated seats. Has it all. Will consider any offer. Has new tires, new embroidered factory mats, as new inside, outside is excellent condition as well. Alex Cagann http://www.autoconsortium.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 13:42:03 -0400 From: "Alexander Fadeev" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Steven Stern'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <e36> fails new smog test Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steve, My '95 M3 has been getting closer and closer to low-speed emissions failure thresholds for the last 3 years. This year it was right ON the fail threshold (forgot the exact NOX level). I am blaming it on the dying cat. Getting it hot helps, but can not compensate for inevitable aging. Regarding the knock sensor - do replace it to eliminate the possibility of DME over-compensating for a falsing knock-sensor! HTH, alex f > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steven Stern > Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 10:43 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: [UUC] <e36> fails new smog test > > > My 95 M3 recently failed the new CA smog test, it failed the > 15mph dyno test with extremely high NO ppm (3250) and high HC > (199), as a gross polluter. All other tests passed OK, even > the 25 mph dyno. > > The car has a conforti chip in it. I've had it chipped for ~ > 7 yrs and it has passed before with no problems, I always > make sure the CAT is really warm! . > > After it failed I read the computer codes and I saw a 1226 > code, check knock sensor. I just had an inspection II today > and my shop says they see that timing intervention is active > at idle, and timing advance measures 19 degrees, while > normal values are 7-18. > > They found nothing else wrong, they recommended I change gas > (from Valero to 76), put the original chip back in, and have > it re-tested. > > Has anyone else had similar problems with the new test ? Do > you agree with this advice ? > > thanks, > Steve ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
