The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 3 : Issue 461 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Nevermind ... A4S 310R AT  - or is is 4L30E - I see they're the same thing
  [E34] A4S 310R AT Fill Level - fluid POURED out of fill hole  ?!?!?
  Re: [E34] A4S 310R AT Fill Level - fluid POURED out of fill
  Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
  Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
  Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
  E30 brake lights
  Re: E30 brake lights
  Re: E30 brake lights
  Re: E30 brake lights
  Re: [E34] A4S 310R AT Fill Level - fluid POURED out of fill hole ?!?!?
  Re: [E34] A4S 310R AT Fill Level - fluid POURED out of fill hole ?!?!?
  Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
  Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
  Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 10:49:39 -0400
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Nevermind ... A4S 310R AT  - or is is 4L30E - I see they're the same 
thing
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Shoulda' spent more time with google before posting.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 11:06:12 -0400
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: [E34] A4S 310R AT Fill Level - fluid POURED out of fill hole  ?!?!?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Forgive me if this is a double post - did not see it show up, but a later
message did.

'94 525i touring
 
Shifting has been funky for two days - slipping, hunting, TRANS PROGRAM
errors.
MAJOR rebuild ($$$$) at 103,000 - now at 173,000.  Things seemed fine -
problems started suddenly.
 
Figured I'd check fluid level before doing anything else.  Went for a short
drive to warm up transmission fluid.  Parked on slight slope - jacked up
front end (on stands) so car is about level.  Engine running - in Neutral As
the plug came loose I saw fluid seeping so I figured there was enough - went
ahead and pulled the plug and ATF POURED from transmission - At least a pint
before I got the plug back in.
 
WTF!  
 
Have I been driving a majorly overfilled transmission for 70,000 miles, or
is this a symptom of some other problem (bad valve ... ???).
 
Car is still on jack stands - not sure what to do with it at this point.
Quick responses would be APPRECIATED!


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 12:19:22 -0400
From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Karl Zemlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
        UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [E34] A4S 310R AT Fill Level - fluid POURED out of fill
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The trans fluid temp should be between 30 and 50C.  If it's hotter, it 
will seem over filled.

The trans should be topped off with the fluid as close to 30C as 
possible.  Driving the car, even for a couple of minutes, is usually 
enough to put the temp over that.

You have 70,000 miles on the trans.  How many times has the fluid been 
changed in that time?  It should have been changed twice so far, once 
with a new filter.


Brett Anderson
KMS


Karl Zemlin wrote:
> Forgive me if this is a double post - did not see it show up, but a later
> message did.
> 
> '94 525i touring
>  
> Shifting has been funky for two days - slipping, hunting, TRANS PROGRAM
> errors.
> MAJOR rebuild ($$$$) at 103,000 - now at 173,000.  Things seemed fine -
> problems started suddenly.
>  
> Figured I'd check fluid level before doing anything else.  Went for a short
> drive to warm up transmission fluid.  Parked on slight slope - jacked up
> front end (on stands) so car is about level.  Engine running - in Neutral As
> the plug came loose I saw fluid seeping so I figured there was enough - went
> ahead and pulled the plug and ATF POURED from transmission - At least a pint
> before I got the plug back in.
>  
> WTF!  
>  
> Have I been driving a majorly overfilled transmission for 70,000 miles, or
> is this a symptom of some other problem (bad valve ... ???).
>  
> Car is still on jack stands - not sure what to do with it at this point.
> Quick responses would be APPRECIATED!
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 12:51:43 -0400
From: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thank you all for the responses thus far...

The history of the car:
it was lightly rear-ended in 2003 when the car had ~5000mi on it... it was hit 
@ ~5 or 10mph. (Wife was at a stop and the person behind her decided to try and 
merge into traffic...)
The car was repaired at a local body shop that Morristown BMW picked (since 
they told us they don't do the actual bodywork anyway.)

The car now has 76,000 mi... most of which was driven in Northern NJ.

My Repair (attempt):
I removed most of the trunk paneling and chased the ground wire forward to the 
rear bulkhead where the wiring loom plunges down behind the non-folding portion 
of the seat (following the top of the rear wheel-well)... (the car has folding 
rear seats)

SO, the question of the day is where does that [EMAIL PROTECTED] brown wire go? 
(short of taking the car apart while attempting to follow the harness...)

On the other side of the trunk, the battery ground was spotless.

Now I think it is possible that for whatever reason that the plug was not 
properly aligned when BMW replaced the bulb during the last service (to replace 
a blown light ~3wks ago now) to replace the front axle since the boot was 
disintergrating (right side this time, since the left was done about 15K 
ago)... 
But that is just a guess since the light shorted out about 1 to 1.5wks after 
the service... and impossible to prove anything... and besides, the damage is 
done... BMW will probably want to replace the entire panel and probably the 
wiring harness on our dime.

When I pulled the plug yesterday, the mating spade connector seemed pushed down 
into its receptical.  I straightened it, cleaned it, and while holding the 
ground, reassembled (and checked with a multi-meter).  The resistance was only 
slightly higher than the neighboring wire.  
The harness side of the plug was slightly charred, so I cleaned that as best as 
I could. Since the spade was now free to move (since the plastic that was 
holding it was melted away) I held the wire while reassembling. 

So I come back to that same question... where does that harness attach to 
ground in the car?  
The optional (not installed) CD changer harness is right there as well as what 
I am assuming to be either the non-installed car-phone and/or alarm system as 
well.
I lose the harness when it enters the rear bulkhead.

And I thank you for you continued support.

-Jason
'86 951 "Sparky"
'70 240Z "Dusty"
'03 325xi "Daisy"
'06 Mini CooperS


> So the rains have stopped (Thurs. night / Friday was kinda interesting... the 
> thunder sounded more like military planes flying at supersonic speeds 
> overhead... but that's another story.
> 
> The tail lights both left as well as right started doing funky things...  I 
> pulled the Drivers-side tail light cluster and low & behold the #2 slot 
> (BROWN wire), which is heavier duty that all the rest, is melted/burned on 
> both the harness side as well as cluster side.
> 
> The local dealer (Morristown BMW) didn't want to have anything to do with 
> this... (WTF?!)
> 
> SO,
> That burned ground wire leads me to believe that the ground that this wire 
> attaches to is lose or corroded or both...
> Does anyone have any idea where this magical ground connection might be?
> 
> TIA!
> 
> 
> 
> > Hello All,
> > 
> > I've just had a new issue pop up with the wife's '03 325xi (E46)
> > The right-rear tail-light cluster shorts out for a day or two and then 
> > starts working... This is brake light, turn signal, and tail lamp.
> > 
> > Knowing that Bavarian Elves have not sneaked into the garage last night to 
> > fix this, does the list have a starting point to go searching for this 
> > short?
> > 
> > Fuse box?
> > known wear area that grounds wires?
> > lose connector somewhere?



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 17:54:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phil Davis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Jason: Try jumping that groud wire to a know good ground and see how it 
operates. If that solves the problem solder a new wire to that ground terminal 
on the light bulb panel and send it to a new known good ground. Repair any 
other damaged wires begining to end. You probably can buy the wire end plugs 
and wire terminals from BMW. If I had last 7 of your VIN I can look them up for 
you. You will need an electrical diagram to trace that wire to its ground plug 
or lug starting point. I have these and can make a copy and mail or email it to 
you.

Phil Davis

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 10:09:09 -0400
From: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected], Phil Davis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks for the reply Phil,

I don't have the VIN handy right now, but will later tonight...
However, I got the following from another lister (below).

I would appreciate the an email of the electrical diagrams so I can still check 
the ground connection... 

Thanks for all the help Gruppe!

-Jason
'86 951 "Sparky"
'70 240Z "Dusty"
'03 325xi "Daisy"
'06 Mini CooperS




Hi Jason, 

This sound like what happen to me on my Canadian Spec 2003 330i 
with Production Date of 04/2003. The driver side tail light the 
brown wire / pin was melted and the "check light" was on which 
points me to check if a light bulb was burned out ... but instead 
I find the melted wire/pin ... 

I have taken my car to the dealer and they installed 
the updated ground wire kit as per Service Bulletin. 
According to the part list in the receipt ... 

Qty PN Desc 
===================================================================== 
1 PKE46WIRE 
1 12-52-1-433-217 CONTACT 1 CMPGN 
6 61-13-1-279-833 E36 HOSE CMPGN 
6 61-13-1-387-144 PLUG CONN CMPGN 
6 12-52-0-007-171 BUSHING C D1 
2 12-52-7-519-956 SOCKET H0 D1 
1 61-13-1-387-150 COMB TYPE D3 
2 61-13-1-393-718 INSULATIO D3 
2 07-11-9-975-531 SLEEVE D8 
6 61-13-8-353-747 CONNECTOR CMPGN 
1 63-21-7-165-865 BULB CARR B 

This happened back in Feb 2007. They fixed it under warranty. 



> Jason: Try jumping that groud wire to a know good ground and see how it 
> operates. If that solves the problem solder a new wire to that ground 
> terminal on the light bulb panel and send it to a new known good ground. 
> Repair any other damaged wires begining to end. You probably can buy the wire 
> end plugs and wire terminals from BMW. If I had last 7 of your VIN I can look 
> them up for you. You will need an electrical diagram to trace that wire to 
> its ground plug or lug starting point. I have these and can make a copy and 
> mail or email it to you.
> 
> Phil Davis



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 12:11:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected] (bmw list)
Subject: E30 brake lights
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Here is one for the e30 crowd...

Recently my car has started throwing the "brake lights" warning on the check
panel. 

Normally I would not be surprised as that system has a reputation for
being a bit over-zealous with the brake lights, but in this case, it is
strange. I have started getting the warning without touching the brakes.

Yep, driving along on the highway and all of a sudden, there is the fault.

Given that I was not touching the brakes, the lights shouldn't have been on,
so the condition of the sockets and bulbs shouldn't enter into the equation
here... the only thing I can think of is a failing brake switch (tending
towards failing closed).

Has anyone else run into this before? 

-- Joe

--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski                Network Operations and Security
[EMAIL PROTECTED]                            Worcester Polytechnic Institute

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 12:32:09 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E30 brake lights
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

A failing brake switch won't cause this.

There is a black module forward of the trunk divider panel in the trunk 
behind the driver's side of the rear seat, a little forward of the 
electric antenna. It contains magnetic reed switches with little coils 
of wire passing over them. These switches light the indicator on the 
dash. As these cars approach drinking age, some of these reed switches 
become magnetized, some become weak.

I clean the contacts with craig labs DEoxit, replace the bulbs with 
osram brand from the dealer or Wal*Mart, and have been replacing the 
modules with newer ones from wrecking yards.

Ed

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Here is one for the e30 crowd...
> 
> Recently my car has started throwing the "brake lights" warning on the check
> panel. 
> 
> Normally I would not be surprised as that system has a reputation for
> being a bit over-zealous with the brake lights, but in this case, it is
> strange. I have started getting the warning without touching the brakes.
> 
> Yep, driving along on the highway and all of a sudden, there is the fault.
> 
> Given that I was not touching the brakes, the lights shouldn't have been on,
> so the condition of the sockets and bulbs shouldn't enter into the equation
> here... the only thing I can think of is a failing brake switch (tending
> towards failing closed).
> 
> Has anyone else run into this before? 
> 
> -- Joe
> 
> --
> Joseph M. Krzeszewski              Network Operations and Security
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]                          Worcester Polytechnic Institute
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 14:09:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected] (bmw list)
Subject: Re: E30 brake lights
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I figured it out!

>From Ed MacVaugh
>
>A failing brake switch won't cause this.

In this case, it did... more in a moment.

>There is a black module forward of the trunk divider panel in the trunk 
>behind the driver's side of the rear seat, a little forward of the 
>electric antenna. It contains magnetic reed switches with little coils 
>of wire passing over them. These switches light the indicator on the 
>dash. As these cars approach drinking age, some of these reed switches 
>become magnetized, some become weak.

I am familiar with this module. I checked it several times to make sure
there was no damage occurring to it after I doubled up my brake lights.

>From the diagrams in the Bentley book, the contacts for all three stop
lights are in series. The check panel sees these connect to ground when the
lights are on and all is working correctly. The check panel also sees 12v
from the stop light switch when you step on the brakes. Presumably, if it
sees 12v from the switch but does not see the check relay contacts connect
to ground, there is a fault. I have no idea what happens if it sees the
check relay contacts connect to ground without 12v from the switch.

It seemed unlikely that all three check relays for the brake lights would
fail closed... or rather two out of three with the third one intermittently
closing... and without 12v from the switch I don't know that it would even
report it.

Well, I set about checking the relays. I was able to wave a strong magnet
near them and hear the reeds opening and closing (it has to be quiet to hear
them). On a hunch, I turned the ignition on and cleared the initial check,
then tried playing with the clutch. The panel threw the brake warning.

I could consistently generate the brake warning with the clutch pedal. I
dropped the panel under the dash and had a look. There were the switches. I
pushed the clutch and didn't see anything that interesting. I pushed the
brake and the whole switch moved. I reach up and wiggle it and it is falls
off.

Looking at the switch shows that the lower retaining tab is gone. The only
thing holding the switch in was the upper tab, gravity, and someone who
likes me. What was happening was that when I hit a bump, changed gears or
did just about anything, the switch would shift a bit and bounce. It
wouldn't close enough to turn the brakes on (that I could tell) but it was
enough for the check panel to expect to see verification from the brake
lights. No verification, set off the warning.

So, the switch is now strapped in place with several zipper-ties and
electrical tape until I can get a new switch tomorrow. 

At least the switch will be easy to replace...

-- Joe

--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski                Network Operations and Security
[EMAIL PROTECTED]                            Worcester Polytechnic Institute

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 20:16:04 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E30 brake lights
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I don't see how.

No matter what you did to that switch, it would behave no differently 
electrically than if you sat in the seat tapping at that brake pedal.

Ed

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I figured it out!
> 
>>From Ed MacVaugh
>> A failing brake switch won't cause this.
> 
> In this case, it did... more in a moment.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 19:14:27 -0400
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [E34] A4S 310R AT Fill Level - fluid POURED out of fill hole ?!?!?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Well, it appears the transmission WAS overfilled - I drained well over 3
qts, and that's AFTER I spilled at least a pint on the ground.  That's
surprising because the guy who rebuilt it is supposed to be very good -
recommended by a local independent who's VERY well respected in the BMW
tribe.

Other than that, however, I'm a bit red-faced as the shifting woes appear to
have been the result of a filter long overdue for change.  A fresh filter
and some new juice and we're shifting fine again.

In other news, I posted about loose front end parts a while back - while I
was under the car I smacked the front of the tires and felt play in the
upper control arm ball joints - so I'll guess I'll be doing the upper arms
again.  One sway bar link is also loose, so that's contributing to the
rumble.  Everything else felt tight.

karl

________________________________


'94 525i touring
 
Shifting has been funky for two days - slipping, hunting, TRANS PROGRAM
errors.
MAJOR rebuild ($$$$) at 103,000 - now at 173,000.  Things seemed fine -
problems started suddenly.
 
Figured I'd check fluid level before doing anything else.  Went for a short
drive to warm up transmission fluid.  Parked on slight slope - jacked up
front end (on stands) so car is about level.  Engine running - in Neutral
As the plug came loose I saw fluid seeping so I figured there was enough -
went ahead and pulled the plug and ATF POURED from transmission - At least a
pint before I got the plug back in.
 
WTF!  
 
Have I been driving a majorly overfilled transmission for 70,000 miles, or
is this a symptom of some other problem (bad valve ... ???).
 
Car is still on jack stands - not sure what to do with it at this point.
Quick responses would be APPRECIATED!


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 19:40:00 -0400
From: "John Borella" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [E34] A4S 310R AT Fill Level - fluid POURED out of fill hole ?!?!?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Carl- Did you drop both oil pans when you did the service? How much fluid 
did you put back in?

John B.



>From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>
>Well, it appears the transmission WAS overfilled - I drained well over 3
>qts, and that's AFTER I spilled at least a pint on the ground.  That's
>surprising because the guy who rebuilt it is supposed to be very good -
>recommended by a local independent who's VERY well respected in the BMW
>tribe.

_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon. 
http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglineapril07


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 09:58:02 -0400
From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

SIB 63 03 06

Lists the parts needed for the repair.  Says it takes about 45 minutes 
per side.

If you're out of warranty, download the SI from www.bmwtechinfo.com and 
follow the instructions.

Brett Anderson
KMS



> So the rains have stopped (Thurs. night / Friday was kinda interesting...
> the thunder sounded more like military planes flying at supersonic speeds
> overhead... but that's another story.
> 
> The tail lights both left as well as right started doing funky things...  I
> pulled the Drivers-side tail light cluster and low & behold the #2 slot
> (BROWN wire), which is heavier duty that all the rest, is melted/burned on
> both the harness side as well as cluster side.
> 
> The local dealer (Morristown BMW) didn't want to have anything to do with
> this... (WTF?!)
> 
> SO,
> That burned ground wire leads me to believe that the ground that this wire
> attaches to is lose or corroded or both... Does anyone have any idea where
> this magical ground connection might be?
> 
> TIA!
> 
> -Jason

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 10:15:33 -0400
From: "Fuerst Chris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
        "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Is there a limit for downloads if you buy the 24 hour deal?

Thanks,
Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KMS- Brett
Anderson
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 9:58 AM
To: UUC Digest
Subject: Re: [UUC] E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues

SIB 63 03 06

Lists the parts needed for the repair.  Says it takes about 45 minutes
per side.

If you're out of warranty, download the SI from www.bmwtechinfo.com and
follow the instructions.

Brett Anderson
KMS


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 10:32:27 -0400
From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Fuerst Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, uuc Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Nope.  You can download the entire site if you want.

Brett Anderson
KMS


Fuerst Chris wrote:
> Is there a limit for downloads if you buy the 24 hour deal?
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KMS- Brett
> Anderson
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 9:58 AM
> To: UUC Digest
> Subject: Re: [UUC] E46 Drivers-side rear light cluster issues
> 
> SIB 63 03 06
> 
> Lists the parts needed for the repair.  Says it takes about 45 minutes
> per side.
> 
> If you're out of warranty, download the SI from www.bmwtechinfo.com and
> follow the instructions.
> 
> Brett Anderson
> KMS
> 

------------------------------

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