Stus-List Rub rail options

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

There are lots of options for rub rails.  I'd be looking at one of the
systems where you install a plastic track then snap the rubber part on it.
They have end fittings if you need them.  Here's one site:

http://www.mate-usa.com/en/product_category/rub-rail-pvc

Here's a video of the process:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZI23aOgRRc8

There are other manufacturers.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 9:14 PM, Spencer Johnson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> James and Wally...The rubrail on my LF38 is pretty beat up.  I agree that
> it is under the toe rail and would be a big whup to replace.
> What about just cutting it off flush and adding a standard rub rail?
> Probably one of those vibrating cutters would make short work of it
> especially after you got started.
> The question is:  What do you put over it and how do you attach it?  The
> standard motor boat rub rails are a channel with a replaceable insert
> screwed into the fiberglass.  With maybe some butyl bedding
> it might be a reasonable enhancement?
> So, what is wrong with this option?  ...not that I would look forward
> toit..
>
> Spencer Johnson
> 1984 C&C LF 38 "Alegria" #165
> ~~~_/) * 
> Mount Prospect, IL
>
> >James - I believe that vinyl rub rail is part of the deck/hull joint, so
> >replacing it would be next to impossible.
>
> >Wal
>
> >you wrote:
> >> I am debating whether it is worth the labour to attempt to remove the
> paint
> >>and shine up the existing rub rail, or to go ahead and replace.
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Replacing rubrail Landfall 35

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

James and Wally...The rubrail on my LF38 is pretty beat up.  I agree that it is 
under the toe rail and would be a big whup to replace.
What about just cutting it off flush and adding a standard rub rail?  Probably 
one of those vibrating cutters would make short work of it especially after you 
got started.
The question is:  What do you put over it and how do you attach it?  The 
standard motor boat rub rails are a channel with a replaceable insert screwed 
into the fiberglass.  With maybe some butyl bedding
it might be a reasonable enhancement?
So, what is wrong with this option?  ...not that I would look forward toit..

Spencer Johnson
1984 C&C LF 38 "Alegria" #165
~~~_/) * 
Mount Prospect, IL

>James - I believe that vinyl rub rail is part of the deck/hull joint, so 
>replacing it would be next to impossible.

>Wal

>you wrote:
>> I am debating whether it is worth the labour to attempt to remove the paint 
>>and shine up the existing rub rail, or to go ahead and replace.

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Replacing Rub Rail - Landfall 35

[JAMES LEMESURIER via CnC-List]

 
 
Thanks for your comment Mr. Bryant. I think you are correct about the rub-rail 
being part of the deck-hull joint.  But I wonder if there is a cosmetic 
solution - ie. installing a concave replacement over the existing one.  Has 
anyone tried anything like this?
 
James LeMesurier
Landfall 35 - SISU
Saint John, NB Canada___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Michael,

 

When I worked at a gas station in Upper Michigan we used to winterize diesel by 
adding 10% #1 heating oil to it.  It is far less volatile than gasoline.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Cotton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 8:14 PM
To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

 

In the old days before diesel was "winterized" it was SOP to add 10% gas to 
your diesel tank, then fill with diesel (insures mixing). This was done to 
prevent the diesel from "jelling".

Michael Cotton

S/V  M'aisling

 

On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 4:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems - now gas in diesel

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

You run less risk of the vapour lock mentioned earlier by using kerosene 
instead of gas to help keep the wax in #2 diesel dissolved in the winter. This 
is an all too frequent problem in colder climates with truckers who head north 
from the southern states in the winter, who don't bother to stop for winter 
(#1) diesel along the way. Granted kerosene is not always so easy to find as 
gasoline, especially in an emergency. 

Steve Thomas
C&C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Cotton via CnC-List 
  To: Josh Muckley ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 8:13 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems


  In the old days before diesel was "winterized" it was SOP to add 10% gas to 
your diesel tank, then fill with diesel (insures mixing). This was done to 
prevent the diesel from "jelling".
  Michael Cotton
  S/V  M'aisling



  On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 4:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:




  RE: diesel in the gas
  Maybe some of you remember but when I bought Sea Hawk the survey revealed 
that the engine (diesel) wouldn't stay running.  After the owner hired a 
mechanic and had the HP pump replaced ($1800) I thought the problem had been 
licked and departed on the 350mi delivery trip.  About 20 min into the trip the 
engine died AGAIN!
  Long story short, about 2 months later I finally figured out that I had 
enough gasoline in a 40 gallon diesel tank that I could run a 2 stroke weed 
eater off the mix.  When poured on a leaf pile it made quite a fire ball.
  When the engine was cold, it would run fine but when it got warm the gasoline 
would flash to vapor and lock up the HP pump.  It acted like it lost prime.  I 
could keep it running with a priming bulb or by keeping it cool with a garden 
hose.
  Changed out the fuel and haven't had a problem since.
  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD
  On Aug 5, 2014 5:45 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  
wrote:

>> Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! <<

I have been told that up to 10% gasoline in a large (>25 gal) diesel tank 
would still be OK to use.  I picked this up when discussing diesel truck 
refueling issues.  I friend of mine with a fleet of diesel trucks panicked when 
he looked down and noticed he stuck a gas nozzle into his diesel tank.  He paid 
for a tow and to have the tank drained and cleaned.  Afterword’s we discussed 
the event and he thought he had put in 5 to 10 gal of gas into a 40 gal tank.

I recommend you check your engine owner’s manual before paying $$ to pump 
out a diesel tank with a few gallons of gasoline added.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:16 PM
To: 'Stevan Plavsa'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! 
Not sure my marina would go to those lengths to make good on that. 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

I've replaced the entire fuel system except the tank. I think it's 
aluminum. I did free it once to lift it up so I could see underneath. No 
noticeable corrosion. 
New fill hose, vent, lines, racor and polishing filter. 

Last year the attendant at a marina I was at accidentally filled the tank 
with diesel! The marina paid for a waste disposal truck to come down and pump 
the tank out. Then we put about 10 litres of gasoline in and pumped that out 
too. I like to think I got a free tank cleaning ... they paid for the fill, 
dinner, a night at the marina and a LIMO (to take us to dinner). Yeah, they 
made good on their mistake, and then some.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





  ___
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







--


  ___
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator or belt?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

And use a new belt.  The only time I had a belt failure was 20 hours 
after I put a 'new' belt on.  I'd put on my oldest spare, which was 
dumb.  It's not fresh milk, and there's no need to rotate stock. Belts 
are cheap; overheating is expensive.


Wal

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

In the old days before diesel was "winterized" it was SOP to add 10% gas to 
your diesel tank, then fill with diesel (insures mixing). This was done to 
prevent the diesel from "jelling".
Michael Cotton
S/V  M'aisling


On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 4:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 


RE: diesel in the gas
Maybe some of you remember but when I bought Sea Hawk the survey revealed that 
the engine (diesel) wouldn't stay running.  After the owner hired a mechanic 
and had the HP pump replaced ($1800) I thought the problem had been licked and 
departed on the 350mi delivery trip.  About 20 min into the trip the engine 
died AGAIN!
Long story short, about 2 months later I finally figured out that I had enough 
gasoline in a 40 gallon diesel tank that I could run a 2 stroke weed eater off 
the mix.  When poured on a leaf pile it made quite a fire ball.
When the engine was cold, it would run fine but when it got warm the gasoline 
would flash to vapor and lock up the HP pump.  It acted like it lost prime.  I 
could keep it running with a priming bulb or by keeping it cool with a garden 
hose.
Changed out the fuel and haven't had a problem since.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 5, 2014 5:45 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  
wrote:

>> Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! <<
> 
>I have been told that up to 10% gasoline in a large (>25 gal) diesel tank 
>would still be OK to use.  I picked this up when discussing diesel truck 
>refueling issues.  I friend of mine with a fleet of diesel trucks panicked 
>when he looked down and noticed he stuck a gas nozzle into his diesel tank.  
>He paid for a tow and to have the tank drained and cleaned.  Afterword’s we 
>discussed the event and he thought he had put in 5 to 10 gal of gas into a 40 
>gal tank.
> 
>I recommend you check your engine owner’s manual before paying $$ to pump out 
>a diesel tank with a few gallons of gasoline added.
> 
>Martin
>Calypso
>1971 C&C 43
>Seattle
>
>
> 
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
>Stratton via CnC-List
>Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:16 PM
>To: 'Stevan Plavsa'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems
> 
>Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! 
>Not sure my marina would go to those lengths to make good on that. 
> 
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
>Plavsa via CnC-List
>Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:11 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems
> 
>I've replaced the entire fuel system except the tank. I think it's aluminum. I 
>did free it once to lift it up so I could see underneath. No noticeable 
>corrosion. 
>New fill hose, vent, lines, racor and polishing filter. 
> 
>Last year the attendant at a marina I was at accidentally filled the tank with 
>diesel! The marina paid for a waste disposal truck to come down and pump the 
>tank out. Then we put about 10 litres of gasoline in and pumped that out too. 
>I like to think I got a free tank cleaning ... they paid for the fill, dinner, 
>a night at the marina and a LIMO (to take us to dinner). Yeah, they made good 
>on their mistake, and then some.
> 
>Steve
>Suhana, C&C 32
>Toronto
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
>Email address:
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
>at:
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

RE: diesel in the gas

Maybe some of you remember but when I bought Sea Hawk the survey revealed
that the engine (diesel) wouldn't stay running.  After the owner hired a
mechanic and had the HP pump replaced ($1800) I thought the problem had
been licked and departed on the 350mi delivery trip.  About 20 min into the
trip the engine died AGAIN!

Long story short, about 2 months later I finally figured out that I had
enough gasoline in a 40 gallon diesel tank that I could run a 2 stroke weed
eater off the mix.  When poured on a leaf pile it made quite a fire ball.

When the engine was cold, it would run fine but when it got warm the
gasoline would flash to vapor and lock up the HP pump.  It acted like it
lost prime.  I could keep it running with a priming bulb or by keeping it
cool with a garden hose.

Changed out the fuel and haven't had a problem since.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 5, 2014 5:45 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  >> Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! <<
>
>
>
> I have been told that up to 10% gasoline in a large (>25 gal) diesel tank
> would still be OK to use.  I picked this up when discussing diesel truck
> refueling issues.  I friend of mine with a fleet of diesel trucks panicked
> when he looked down and noticed he stuck a gas nozzle into his diesel
> tank.  He paid for a tow and to have the tank drained and cleaned.
> Afterword's we discussed the event and he thought he had put in 5 to 10 gal
> of gas into a 40 gal tank.
>
>
>
> I recommend you check your engine owner's manual before paying $$ to pump
> out a diesel tank with a few gallons of gasoline added.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Burt
> Stratton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:16 PM
> *To:* 'Stevan Plavsa'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems
>
>
>
> Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around!
>
> Not sure my marina would go to those lengths to make good on that.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
> Plavsa via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:11 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems
>
>
>
> I've replaced the entire fuel system except the tank. I think it's
> aluminum. I did free it once to lift it up so I could see underneath. No
> noticeable corrosion.
>
> New fill hose, vent, lines, racor and polishing filter.
>
>
>
> Last year the attendant at a marina I was at accidentally filled the tank
> with diesel! The marina paid for a waste disposal truck to come down and
> pump the tank out. Then we put about 10 litres of gasoline in and pumped
> that out too. I like to think I got a free tank cleaning ... they paid for
> the fill, dinner, a night at the marina and a LIMO (to take us to dinner).
> Yeah, they made good on their mistake, and then some.
>
>
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

We still do that (add a little gasoline) to the tank in a 2004 Ford F 350
diesel truck. No problems after 11 years.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald,
HONEY
C&C 39TM
Savannah, GA 31410 USA



**PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com  FROM YOUR ADDRESS
BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
*



On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 6:14 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used to put 2 gallons of gasoline in my old Mercedes 300D per tank of
> diesel in the winter.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> j...@dellabarba.com
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Martin
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:45 PM
> *To:* Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems
>
>
>
> >> Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! <<
>
>
>
> I have been told that up to 10% gasoline in a large (>25 gal) diesel tank
> would still be OK to use.  I picked this up when discussing diesel truck
> refueling issues.  I friend of mine with a fleet of diesel trucks panicked
> when he looked down and noticed he stuck a gas nozzle into his diesel
> tank.  He paid for a tow and to have the tank drained and cleaned.
> Afterword’s we discussed the event and he thought he had put in 5 to 10 gal
> of gas into a 40 gal tank.
>
>
>
> I recommend you check your engine owner’s manual before paying $$ to pump
> out a diesel tank with a few gallons of gasoline added.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Relacing Rub Rail - Landfall 35

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

James - I believe that vinyl rub rail is part of the deck/hull joint, so 
replacing it would be next to impossible.


Wal

you wrote:

I am debating whether it is worth the labour to attempt to remove the paint and 
shine up the existing rub rail, or to go ahead and replace.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I used to put 2 gallons of gasoline in my old Mercedes 300D per tank of diesel 
in the winter.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:45 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

 

>> Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! <<

 

I have been told that up to 10% gasoline in a large (>25 gal) diesel tank would 
still be OK to use.  I picked this up when discussing diesel truck refueling 
issues.  I friend of mine with a fleet of diesel trucks panicked when he looked 
down and noticed he stuck a gas nozzle into his diesel tank.  He paid for a tow 
and to have the tank drained and cleaned.  Afterword’s we discussed the event 
and he thought he had put in 5 to 10 gal of gas into a 40 gal tank.

 

I recommend you check your engine owner’s manual before paying $$ to pump out a 
diesel tank with a few gallons of gasoline added.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle




 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Alternator or belt?

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Maybe your alternator is old, the bearings are worn,  if so the brushes are
probably worn as well, and you should replace both?

When I burned my diodes, I considered sending it for a rebuild but then I
was quoted up to $ 200.00 +

Then I looked on eBay:  How about 85.00 bucks shipped brand spankin' new?
That's right, I bought a brand new 80 or 90 amp genuine Hitachi Alternator
(Original OEM for Yanmar you just have to find the cross reference)  on
Ebay for about 85 bucks shipped.  For my uses, a high amp setup was not
worth the extra expense / work on retro-fitting proper wider pulleys,
bigger belts, re-wiring with heavy wires, new regulator, etc, etc, etc..

I installed it in about 45 minutes total.  Tensioning the belt was a 2
minutes complete no-brainer.  Honestly I don't even remember if I tightened
it by hand or may have used a large screwdriver as a lever.  The required
tension is just not that tight..

The longest part of the deal was sanding / polishing the inside of the
pulleys as they had rusted from lack of use by prior owners.. That's what
my particular problem was besides burnt diodes from a brain fart twisting
the ignition key while the (Diesel) engine was running..

If your pulleys show rust, they will eat the belt.  The belt cannot
sufficiently polish the pulleys from just running,, Again, a few minutes of
quality time with various grit sand paper will do the trick.

So for about 100 bucks and 45 minutes of sweating I had a brand new
alternator, polished pulleys, and a brand new belt.  I just checked it this
past weekend:  After a full year of usage everything is still "peachy king"
spot on :-)
-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia.___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>> Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! <<

I have been told that up to 10% gasoline in a large (>25 gal) diesel tank would 
still be OK to use.  I picked this up when discussing diesel truck refueling 
issues.  I friend of mine with a fleet of diesel trucks panicked when he looked 
down and noticed he stuck a gas nozzle into his diesel tank.  He paid for a tow 
and to have the tank drained and cleaned.  Afterword’s we discussed the event 
and he thought he had put in 5 to 10 gal of gas into a 40 gal tank.

I recommend you check your engine owner’s manual before paying $$ to pump out a 
diesel tank with a few gallons of gasoline added.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:16 PM
To: 'Stevan Plavsa'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around!
Not sure my marina would go to those lengths to make good on that.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

I've replaced the entire fuel system except the tank. I think it's aluminum. I 
did free it once to lift it up so I could see underneath. No noticeable 
corrosion.
New fill hose, vent, lines, racor and polishing filter.

Last year the attendant at a marina I was at accidentally filled the tank with 
diesel! The marina paid for a waste disposal truck to come down and pump the 
tank out. Then we put about 10 litres of gasoline in and pumped that out too. I 
like to think I got a free tank cleaning ... they paid for the fill, dinner, a 
night at the marina and a LIMO (to take us to dinner). Yeah, they made good on 
their mistake, and then some.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker - now spinnaker and 35-III

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Tim 
Thanks for this advice. I think mine is a standard rug like yours I have 
sheaves for two spin halyards but only have one halyard. Perhaps I should re 
purpose one of the jib halyards which never gets used!  I am reasonably 
familiar with the Mexican on a j109 (asym and sprit of course) but not sure I 
can envision it with a pole and symetrical

With the j109 we unfurl the jib as we approach the mark and sheet it in tight 
on the starboard side (still approaching on a starboard tack (spin on the port 
side)

As we gybe we harden up on the spin sheet and as we pass stern through the wind 
the main gybes and the spinnaker collapses into the tight ( port side ) of the 
job. Release the halyard, tack and sheet to douse spinnaker straight down hatch

So my confusion is. with the sym spinnaker how to unfurl the jib on the 
starboard side with the pole in the way?

Apologies to all for my ignorance!


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Aug 3, 2014, at 16:10, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
> 
> Jonathan, it sounds like you have a different setup to mine.  Mine looks 
> exactly like the shop drawings, so is original (maybe an option?).  We have 
> two spin halyards that exit slightly above the forestay with stainless 
> 'pipes' each side.  That makes it easy to douse either side as long as 
> foredeck remembers which way round to untwist them.  
> 
> We had one race where we seemed to get something hung up on the douse. So now 
> we tend to release about 6" of halyard while the spin is full, which should 
> help you clear the forestay / swivel, but I think the best advice would be to 
> go for the 'Mexican' that others have described.  It can get you a later drop 
> and means the sheets / guys can remain hooked up if you're OK with hatch 
> hoists.
> 
> Tim
> Mojito C&C 35-III
> Branford, CT
> 
>> On Aug 3, 2014, at 12:23 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks for all the help on this. 
>> 
>> I have another question - specifically for 35-III owners who fly a 
>> symmetrical spinnaker
>> 
>> I usually do my first set with the pole to starboard and the chute going up 
>> using my only spin halyard which is on the port side - and the chute going 
>> up under the jib (starboard tack for a port rounding).  After an odd number 
>> of gybes, I am dousing on the chute on the starboard side- with the halyard 
>> now over the top of the forestay ( on the 35-III the standard halyard 
>> sheaves are in line and not above the forestay tang). On more than one 
>> occasion, we have had great difficulty dousing the chute because of the way 
>> the halyard is being led over the forestay - potentially very dangerous. I 
>> am typically leaving the douse until I am almost at the leeward mark and 
>> have therefor started rounding up by the time we start bringing the kite 
>> down. I have to be doing something wrong!
>> 
>> Jonathan
>> 
>>   
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C&C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
>>> On Aug 1, 2014, at 9:54, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> We have a furler and dip-pole.  We use a piece of velcro to hold the sheets 
>>> to the headstay below the drum.  i'm not on the bow, but some very 
>>> experienced bowmen tell me its best on my boat.
>>> 
>>> Joel
>>> 35/3
>>> The Office
>>> Annapolis
>>> 
>>> 
 On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 8:29 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 I don’t think of it either. 
 
  
 
 Of course that is because I am old and way too heavy to be allowed on the 
 bow
 
  
 
 Mike
 
 Persistence
 
 Halifax
 
 (yet another “not a c&c” boat – however I do race regularly on a 115 so I 
 guess that counts – and a 99 as well)
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim 
 Goodyear via CnC-List
 Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 8:57 AM
 To: Indigo; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker
 
  
 
 It really is up to the bow person to keep the jib sheets forward / above 
 the pole / topping lift.  It is not hard if the sheets are slack (no 
 reason to keep them taught) and it's way, way easier with a furler than if 
 you had dropped the jib.  Just one other thing for bow to remember in the 
 gybe.  We don't even think of it these days.  I'm assuming you're doing 
 dip pole, not what Josh was describing?
 
  
 
 Tim
 
 Mojito C&C 35-3
 
 Branford, CT
 
  
 
 On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 10:51 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Still trying to get the hang of racing with a symmetrical spinnaker - and 
 sorely in need of advice!
 
 I am setting up the pole with the lazy jib sheet over the pole and forward 
 of the pole topping lift (taped back at the mast end of the pole)
 
 Set goes fine, then furl the jib. However after a couple of gybes, I find 
 the jib sheets a

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! 

Not sure my marina would go to those lengths to make good on that. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

 

I've replaced the entire fuel system except the tank. I think it's aluminum. I 
did free it once to lift it up so I could see underneath. No noticeable 
corrosion. 

New fill hose, vent, lines, racor and polishing filter. 

 

Last year the attendant at a marina I was at accidentally filled the tank with 
diesel! The marina paid for a waste disposal truck to come down and pump the 
tank out. Then we put about 10 litres of gasoline in and pumped that out too. I 
like to think I got a free tank cleaning ... they paid for the fill, dinner, a 
night at the marina and a LIMO (to take us to dinner). Yeah, they made good on 
their mistake, and then some.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 4:54 PM, Robert Wooden via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My 1975 model year C&C 27 (built in late 74 based on the HIN of CCY274660974
has the original fuel tank...  It is Monel which you probably can't afford
even if you could find it.  Monel is a wonderful cupronickel alloy, no rust,
no fuss.   My A4 runs like a champ, and is very stock (standard distributor,
standard fuel "filter" (more of a sediment bulb).  The tank is clean and I
did rebuild the carb early on.  I have been out in heavy weather (tends to
stir up any tank sediment or water) and it still starts and runs every time.

Anyway, verify the tank material (probably on a plate on the tank) and if it
is Monel you have a winner.

Bob Wooden



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I've replaced the entire fuel system except the tank. I think it's
aluminum. I did free it once to lift it up so I could see underneath. No
noticeable corrosion.
New fill hose, vent, lines, racor and polishing filter.

Last year the attendant at a marina I was at accidentally filled the tank
with diesel! The marina paid for a waste disposal truck to come down and
pump the tank out. Then we put about 10 litres of gasoline in and pumped
that out too. I like to think I got a free tank cleaning ... they paid for
the fill, dinner, a night at the marina and a LIMO (to take us to dinner).
Yeah, they made good on their mistake, and then some.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 4:54 PM, Robert Wooden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 1975 model year C&C 27 (built in late 74 based on the HIN of
> CCY274660974
> has the original fuel tank...  It is Monel which you probably can't afford
> even if you could find it.  Monel is a wonderful cupronickel alloy, no
> rust,
> no fuss.   My A4 runs like a champ, and is very stock (standard
> distributor,
> standard fuel "filter" (more of a sediment bulb).  The tank is clean and I
> did rebuild the carb early on.  I have been out in heavy weather (tends to
> stir up any tank sediment or water) and it still starts and runs every
> time.
>
> Anyway, verify the tank material (probably on a plate on the tank) and if
> it
> is Monel you have a winner.
>
> Bob Wooden
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Robert Wooden via CnC-List]

My 1975 model year C&C 27 (built in late 74 based on the HIN of CCY274660974
has the original fuel tank...  It is Monel which you probably can't afford
even if you could find it.  Monel is a wonderful cupronickel alloy, no rust,
no fuss.   My A4 runs like a champ, and is very stock (standard distributor,
standard fuel "filter" (more of a sediment bulb).  The tank is clean and I
did rebuild the carb early on.  I have been out in heavy weather (tends to
stir up any tank sediment or water) and it still starts and runs every time.

Anyway, verify the tank material (probably on a plate on the tank) and if it
is Monel you have a winner.

Bob Wooden


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator or belt?

[Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone!  

Barbara H. Fellers


> On Aug 5, 2014, at 4:30 PM, "Gary W. Russell"  wrote:
> 
> Once it has started to squeal, the inside of the "V" has been glazed and 
> tensioning the belt is not a viable option.  Replacement is quite easy on 
> most engines.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Expresso
> 75' C&C 35 Mk II
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~
> 
>> On Aug 5, 2014, at 3:32 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> So if my belt is slipping, can I just pull the alternator out to tighten? Or 
>> do I have to replace it?  It has squealed from time to time and I can push 
>> it in maybe 1/2". Is replacement a two person job?
>> 
>> Barbara H. Fellers
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

My original tank is also Moenl. What I do every spring is to remove some of the 
gas in the bottom ( abour 1 liter ). Sometimes half of it is water sometimes it 
is only gas. I does remove some sludge evary time ( I use a brass tube with an 
outboard bulb to extract on a glass jar.

Anyway, I have had no fuel issues since I installed a Racor/Parker 10 microns 
filter. I replace the filter element every 2 years.


Sylvain
C&C27 MkIII



 From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
To: Burt Stratton ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 
Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2014 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems
 


 
Monel is the best possible metal to make tanks from. Worth big  - if you 
have a monel tank that is great news!
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
 
From:Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:23 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: RE: Stus-List A4 engine problems
 
I think it says Monel on the tag. Is Monel a brand name for ternplate?
 
From:Della Barba, Joe [mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:09 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List A4 engine problems
 
If the tank is metal and not bare aluminum, chances are high it is ternplate. 
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From:Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 1:48 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List A4 engine problems
 
Joe,
 
How can I tell if my tank in my 1974 ¾ ton is original? I have seen no rust in 
my filters (yet). I know my supply line is relatively new but I was already 
planning on replacing my fill and vent hoses. They look old and not like the 
new hoses that are made for ethanol.
 
Thanks,
Skip
 
From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems
 
One more thing – early-mid 1970s C&C fuel systems would not be even CLOSE to 
being safe in 2014. I have not one scrap of the original fuel system left. The 
tank was ternplate, which will send a ton of rust through the engine until it 
rusts right through and the hoses were NOT compatible with modern fuel. If you 
have ANY part of the original fuel system it needs to go now. This included the 
fill and vent hoses. My fill hose was dissolving from the inside out and 
sending rubber chunks into the tank.
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator or belt?

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

Once it has started to squeal, the inside of the "V" has been glazed and 
tensioning the belt is not a viable option.  Replacement is quite easy on most 
engines.

Gary
S/V Expresso
75' C&C 35 Mk II
East Greenwich, RI, USA

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Aug 5, 2014, at 3:32 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> So if my belt is slipping, can I just pull the alternator out to tighten? Or 
> do I have to replace it?  It has squealed from time to time and I can push it 
> in maybe 1/2". Is replacement a two person job?
> 
> Barbara H. Fellers
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator or belt?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

There are usually two bolts.  A pivot point and a bolt on the tension arm.
 Loosen both, slip off the old belt and replace.  The hard part is
tensioning the belt and tightening the nut on arm at the same time.  That
is where the device Edd used helps.

Joel


On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 3:35 PM, JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One person with a lever can do it. Changing belts every year or two is
> best policy.
>
>
>   On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 3:33:13 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> So if my belt is slipping, can I just pull the alternator out to tighten?
> Or do I have to replace it?  It has squealed from time to time and I can
> push it in maybe 1/2". Is replacement a two person job?
>
> Barbara H. Fellers
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator or belt?

[JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List]

One person with a lever can do it. Changing belts every year or two is best 
policy. 


On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 3:33:13 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 


So if my belt is slipping, can I just pull the alternator out to tighten? Or do 
I have to replace it?  It has squealed from time to time and I can push it in 
maybe 1/2". Is replacement a two person job?    

Barbara H. Fellers



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Relacing Rub Rail - Landfall 35

[JAMES LEMESURIER via CnC-List]

I am in the process of restoring an 81 Landfall 35. Systems are good, so am 
wanting to do some cosmetic improvements.
 
The PO applied some sort of rusty brown paint to the white plastic rub rails.  
(Also the cast aluminum stanchion bases and the bow roller, but that is another 
question!) 
 
I am debating whether it is worth the labour to attempt to remove the paint and 
shine up the existing rub rail, or to go ahead and replace.  The boat has a 
teak-topped toe rail, not the standard aluminum C&C type toe rail.  Would 
welcome any thoughts.
 
James LeMesurier
Landfall 35 - SISU
Saint John NB  Canada___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator or belt?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Engine type?

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara 
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 3:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Alternator or belt?

So if my belt is slipping, can I just pull the alternator out to tighten? Or do 
I have to replace it?  It has squealed from time to time and I can push it in 
maybe 1/2". Is replacement a two person job?

Barbara H. Fellers



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Alternator or belt?

[Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List]

So if my belt is slipping, can I just pull the alternator out to tighten? Or do 
I have to replace it?  It has squealed from time to time and I can push it in 
maybe 1/2". Is replacement a two person job?

Barbara H. Fellers



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Monel is the best possible metal to make tanks from. Worth big  - if you 
have a monel tank that is great news!

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:23 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: RE: Stus-List A4 engine problems

I think it says Monel on the tag. Is Monel a brand name for ternplate?

From: Della Barba, Joe [mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:09 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List A4 engine problems

If the tank is metal and not bare aluminum, chances are high it is ternplate.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 1:48 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List A4 engine problems

Joe,

How can I tell if my tank in my 1974 ¾ ton is original? I have seen no rust in 
my filters (yet). I know my supply line is relatively new but I was already 
planning on replacing my fill and vent hoses. They look old and not like the 
new hoses that are made for ethanol.

Thanks,
Skip

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

One more thing - early-mid 1970s C&C fuel systems would not be even CLOSE to 
being safe in 2014. I have not one scrap of the original fuel system left. The 
tank was ternplate, which will send a ton of rust through the engine until it 
rusts right through and the hoses were NOT compatible with modern fuel. If you 
have ANY part of the original fuel system it needs to go now. This included the 
fill and vent hoses. My fill hose was dissolving from the inside out and 
sending rubber chunks into the tank.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

If the tank is metal and not bare aluminum, chances are high it is ternplate.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 1:48 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List A4 engine problems

Joe,

How can I tell if my tank in my 1974 ¾ ton is original? I have seen no rust in 
my filters (yet). I know my supply line is relatively new but I was already 
planning on replacing my fill and vent hoses. They look old and not like the 
new hoses that are made for ethanol.

Thanks,
Skip

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

One more thing - early-mid 1970s C&C fuel systems would not be even CLOSE to 
being safe in 2014. I have not one scrap of the original fuel system left. The 
tank was ternplate, which will send a ton of rust through the engine until it 
rusts right through and the hoses were NOT compatible with modern fuel. If you 
have ANY part of the original fuel system it needs to go now. This included the 
fill and vent hoses. My fill hose was dissolving from the inside out and 
sending rubber chunks into the tank.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Good thing the border is close for most boat owners.

-Original Message-
From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎05 1:58 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

It’s my understanding that Moyer won’t ship large items like blocks and rebuilt 
engines to Canada.
 
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

It’s my understanding that Moyer won’t ship large items like blocks and rebuilt 
engines to Canada.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Joe,

 

How can I tell if my tank in my 1974 ¾ ton is original? I have seen no rust
in my filters (yet). I know my supply line is relatively new but I was
already planning on replacing my fill and vent hoses. They look old and not
like the new hoses that are made for ethanol.

 

Thanks,

Skip

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

 

One more thing – early-mid 1970s C&C fuel systems would not be even CLOSE to
being safe in 2014. I have not one scrap of the original fuel system left.
The tank was ternplate, which will send a ton of rust through the engine
until it rusts right through and the hoses were NOT compatible with modern
fuel. If you have ANY part of the original fuel system it needs to go now.
This included the fill and vent hoses. My fill hose was dissolving from the
inside out and sending rubber chunks into the tank.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

One more thing - early-mid 1970s C&C fuel systems would not be even CLOSE to 
being safe in 2014. I have not one scrap of the original fuel system left. The 
tank was ternplate, which will send a ton of rust through the engine until it 
rusts right through and the hoses were NOT compatible with modern fuel. If you 
have ANY part of the original fuel system it needs to go now. This included the 
fill and vent hoses. My fill hose was dissolving from the inside out and 
sending rubber chunks into the tank.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List]

If I can fix a fuel problem on an A4, anyone can!    Totally agree with the 
others to clean your fuel tank well (removing it is not as hard as it appears) 
and go thru each line to make sure its clean and tight (no air leakage), change 
filters, install polishing filter, electronic ignition, etc.  My carb only 
needed to be adjusted to fix a shutoff problem that had vexed my husband for 
years.  Vibration had made the main jet adjusting screw loosen and it let in 
too much fuel so the engine would essentially flood itself after some running 
time. I adjusted the screw myself and it has run like a little princess ever 
since.  Knock on wood.  
Barbara Hickson Fellers
Flight Risk
C&C 33-1 Charleston, SC ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List]

If I can fix a fuel problem on an A4, anyone can!    Totally agree with the 
others to clean your fuel tank well (removing it is not as hard as it appears) 
and go thru each line to make sure its clean and tight (no air leakage), change 
filters, install polishing filter, electronic ignition, etc.  My carb only 
needed to be adjusted to fix a shutoff problem that had vexed my husband for 
years.  Vibration had made the main jet adjusting screw loosen and it let in 
too much fuel so the engine would essentially flood itself after some running 
time. I adjusted the screw myself and it has run like a little princess ever 
since.  Knock on wood.  
Barbara Hickson Fellers
Flight Risk
C&C 33-1 Charleston, SC ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Yacht Licensing and Regisration

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Tom — welcome to the List, and congrats on the new boat!  Which boat did 
you buy?  I’ve been up in the Bayfield area for nearly 20 years now, and know 
many of the C&Cs up there.

You can either keep the MN registration, or switch to WI.  My boat has WI 
registration AND Federal documentation; documentation can make it easier to 
take your boat international, and Canada is less than 100 miles away, across 
Lake Superior.



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 5, 2014, at 10:31 AM, Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Hi Folks, 
> 
> I have just purchased a 1985 C&C 33 MKII from a private party. The boat is 
> currently moored in Bayfield WI on Lake Superior and I intend to keep it 
> there.   It is currently registered and titled in State of MN with MN a 
> license on the bow.  I live in MN.  
> 
> Initially, I was planning to transfer the title and registration and keep it 
> registered in MN.   I'm wondering now if that is not the proper/legal thing 
> to do.   
> 
> Am I required to registered it in the State of WI where the boat resides?  
> Are there advantages to completing the US Coast Guard documentation 
> registration rather than state registration? 
> 
> Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. 
> 
> Thanks 
> Tom Lynch
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Yacht Licensing and Regisration

[Tom Lynch via CnC-List]

Hi Folks,

I have just purchased a 1985 C&C 33 MKII from a private party. The boat is
currently moored in Bayfield WI on Lake Superior and I intend to keep it
there.   It is currently registered and titled in State of MN with MN a
license on the bow.  I live in MN.

Initially, I was planning to transfer the title and registration and keep
it registered in MN.   I'm wondering now if that is not the proper/legal
thing to do.

Am I required to registered it in the State of WI where the boat resides?
Are there advantages to completing the US Coast Guard documentation
registration rather than state registration?

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Tom Lynch
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anchor locker latch for C&C 30-2

[McNamee, Michael via CnC-List]

Thanks Kevin.  Your reply pointed me in the right direction.  I think it’s the 
Perko latch at this link:

http://www.perko.com/catalog/locks_and_latches/113/flush_lock_&_latch_with_2_keys/

Don’t know if I need the locking capability, but this one fits so I’ll probably 
go with it.
Thanks again,
Mike

Mike it's a perko latch. I have an extra that I am about to install but I will 
get model number for you. My old one I am taking off is serviceable just stiff. 
I haven't tried lubing it yet we've had another on osprey so thought I would 
use it. I am at the v marina tonight. Will try to remember to look for it.

Kevin
30-2
Portland, OR
C&C 30-2  Limerick
Anacortes, Wa.
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anchor locker latch for C&C 30-2

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Mike it's a perko latch. I have an extra that I am about to install but I
will get model number for you. My old one I am taking off is serviceable
just stiff. I haven't tried lubing it yet we've had another on osprey so
thought I would use it. I am at the v marina tonight. Will try to remember
to look for it.

Kevin
30-2
Portland, OR

Sent from a mobile device.
On Aug 4, 2014 4:04 PM, "McNamee, Michael via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Does anyone know where to get a replacement anchor locker latch for a
> C&C 30-2?  My wife and I were pulling into an anchorage this past weekend
> and when I went forward to get the anchor ready I found that the tab on the
> latch was missing… don’t know where it could have gone, but the result was
> that I couldn’t open the locker lid.  So we ended up tying to a nearby
> state park dock.  Later I found that I could pry the lid open with a
> screwdriver- fortunately it wasn’t in the latched position or I couldn’t
> have done even that.
>
>
>
> Anyway, I was thinking of just replacing the whole thing with a simple
> loop to pull it open, but I thought I’d ask if anyone else has replaced
> this latch.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Mike
>
> C&C 30-2  Limerick
>
> Anacortes, Wa.
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I've never owned an A4, but I grew up on gas powered fishing boats.  Most
of the problems we had (and there were many) were ignition related.  Bad
coils, points, distributors, wires, fouled plugs.  I'd look into the
electronic ignition module if compression were good.  My 2 cents.

Joel


On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 10:00 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here is my two cents.
>
> Engine issues will not simply go away by purchasing an outboard.
>  Outboards break down, it's a fact of life.
>
> On of the reasons I justified selling my 30MMKI with an A-4 was that the
> engine was the original, 1972, raw water cooled, soon to die, at the end of
> the line, it must be, it's old, it's only a matter of time  Well, I
> made fast friends with the new owner, they kept the boat in the same yard
> and that engine is still running strong.
>
> Buying a fancy shmancy boat with a Yanmar (and a monthly payment to the
> bank) simply gave me more things to learn about.  Yes, the Yanmar is
> reliable.  Yes the Yanmar has needed some repairs and maintenance.
>
> Burt Stratton has given you some great advice.  Most of the things he has
> mentioned can be done with basic tools and a bit of hand-eye coordination.
>
> The coil problem you mentioned leads me to ask one question; Did you buy
> the coil Moyer recommends?  I had coil problems.  First I bought a cheap
> coil from NAPA, then i bought a better coil from NAPA.  I eventually
> purchased the exact coil from Moyer and that was the final coil I purchased.
>
> If you are keeping the boat and the engine does not have good compression
> or you have other reason to believe it's DOA, then, my advice is to
> seriously consider the "Moyer Option".
>
> Read the Moyer forums and learn as much about the engine as you can so you
> can service it yourself and learn to fix it yourself in a pinch.
>
> OR, buy an outboard and join some outboard forums so you can service and
> fix that outboard yourself while stranded out at sea with no wind.
>
> You have options;
> 1.  Hang off the stern cursing with bleeding knuckles while dropping tools
> into the water.
> 2.  Curse with bleeding knuckles down below in the shade practicing to be
> a carnival contortionist.
>
> Rob
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My 15 HP Johnson has been pretty good except the one time it just died and 
would not start for anything. Turned out the EI module expired and had to be 
replaced. Not a big deal – we were almost back to the dock and done with the 
dinghy for the day anyway.  There is NO WAY this repair could be done from 
inside a boat with the engine still on without extreme contortions, hanging 
upside-down, and dropping tools and parts overboard.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 10:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

Here is my two cents.

Engine issues will not simply go away by purchasing an outboard.  Outboards 
break down, it's a fact of life.

On of the reasons I justified selling my 30MMKI with an A-4 was that the engine 
was the original, 1972, raw water cooled, soon to die, at the end of the line, 
it must be, it's old, it's only a matter of time  Well, I made fast friends 
with the new owner, they kept the boat in the same yard and that engine is 
still running strong.

Buying a fancy shmancy boat with a Yanmar (and a monthly payment to the bank) 
simply gave me more things to learn about.  Yes, the Yanmar is reliable.  Yes 
the Yanmar has needed some repairs and maintenance.

Burt Stratton has given you some great advice.  Most of the things he has 
mentioned can be done with basic tools and a bit of hand-eye coordination.

The coil problem you mentioned leads me to ask one question; Did you buy the 
coil Moyer recommends?  I had coil problems.  First I bought a cheap coil from 
NAPA, then i bought a better coil from NAPA.  I eventually purchased the exact 
coil from Moyer and that was the final coil I purchased.

If you are keeping the boat and the engine does not have good compression or 
you have other reason to believe it's DOA, then, my advice is to seriously 
consider the "Moyer Option".

Read the Moyer forums and learn as much about the engine as you can so you can 
service it yourself and learn to fix it yourself in a pinch.

OR, buy an outboard and join some outboard forums so you can service and fix 
that outboard yourself while stranded out at sea with no wind.

You have options;
1.  Hang off the stern cursing with bleeding knuckles while dropping tools into 
the water.
2.  Curse with bleeding knuckles down below in the shade practicing to be a 
carnival contortionist.

Rob
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have BTDT with coil failures. There was a ton of research done on Moyer and 
it is a solved problem now. I have had exactly *zero* issues in about 200-300 
hours since I put the rebuilt A4 in. For a while I thought I was going nuts 
because everyone swore my setup should work fine and meanwhile I wouldn’t leave 
the dock without an extra coil because I knew I would need it. As for $10,000 – 
a rebuilt exchange A4 is $4800.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

Here is my two cents.

Engine issues will not simply go away by purchasing an outboard.  Outboards
break down, it's a fact of life.

On of the reasons I justified selling my 30MMKI with an A-4 was that the
engine was the original, 1972, raw water cooled, soon to die, at the end of
the line, it must be, it's old, it's only a matter of time  Well, I
made fast friends with the new owner, they kept the boat in the same yard
and that engine is still running strong.

Buying a fancy shmancy boat with a Yanmar (and a monthly payment to the
bank) simply gave me more things to learn about.  Yes, the Yanmar is
reliable.  Yes the Yanmar has needed some repairs and maintenance.

Burt Stratton has given you some great advice.  Most of the things he has
mentioned can be done with basic tools and a bit of hand-eye coordination.

The coil problem you mentioned leads me to ask one question; Did you buy
the coil Moyer recommends?  I had coil problems.  First I bought a cheap
coil from NAPA, then i bought a better coil from NAPA.  I eventually
purchased the exact coil from Moyer and that was the final coil I purchased.

If you are keeping the boat and the engine does not have good compression
or you have other reason to believe it's DOA, then, my advice is to
seriously consider the "Moyer Option".

Read the Moyer forums and learn as much about the engine as you can so you
can service it yourself and learn to fix it yourself in a pinch.

OR, buy an outboard and join some outboard forums so you can service and
fix that outboard yourself while stranded out at sea with no wind.

You have options;
1.  Hang off the stern cursing with bleeding knuckles while dropping tools
into the water.
2.  Curse with bleeding knuckles down below in the shade practicing to be a
carnival contortionist.

Rob
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

If the engine die randomly while under motor and you have gone through four 
coils you may
have a problem similar to what I have fixed on a couple of Atomic 4s. Check the 
wire that
comes out of the distributor to the coil. You will need to remove the 
distributor cap, undo the
90 degree connector on the points and the connector on the coil. Tightly hook 
up an ohm
meter to the wire, then bend - pull - yank the wire to see if the reading 
jumps. If it does it
is likely damaged right at the point were the wire exits the distributor.

Coils are normally pretty reliable, as long as you have an internal ballasted 
coil or are using
the correct external resistor. Going through more than one in light usage is 
suspicious.

However, removing and replacing the coil does bend the distributor wire and it 
may work
again for a while.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 23:26:04 -0700 
From: Paul and Darlene Clarke  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards 
Message-ID: <0904ed3c-fc2b-48c0-8521-48ef24bb1...@shaw.ca> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" 
 
First of all, thanks to everyone for your input. Much appreciated. I?ve not 
posted very often, but have lurked for years, and I respect the voices of the 
familiar.  
 
I sail out of Vancouver, British Columbia, and most of the cruising we do is 
local, in the summer. We have islands right in our back yard (so, my home 
waters are totally protected), or we will cross Georgia Strait (20-25 nautical 
miles) to get to the very protected Gulf Islands on the east side of Vancouver 
Island. Last year we went north up Georgia Strait for 50 or 60 miles to Pender 
Harbour and crossed to Texada Island and back over 10 days or so. I?ve sailed 
and raced since I was a teen, and this part of the world, in the summer anyway, 
is usually pretty ?Pacific?. In general, we?re looking for breeze in the 
summer, not trying to shelter from too much (although that can happen, of 
course, in which case you hole up for a day or three and conduct scientific 
experiments on the efficacy of various single malt whiskeys); I bought a North 
light air gennaker the year we bought the boat, and thank goodness I did, 
because it?s seen lots of use here in the Pacific SouthWest (as we Canadian 
 s 
  refer to it); crossing the Strait is similar to coastal sailing where the C & 
C hull proves again and again it is very sea kindly. I have only used the 
engine because there is zero wind, hence little or no waves. When there is 
breeze, we sail! And of course, motoring into most slips is required.  
 
What led me to ask about outboards is that every year for the last 5, we have 
departed on summer vacations and ended up being stranded somewhere with Atomic 
4 issues. Spinning around in circles at the whim of the tidal currents in zero 
wind with wife and kids aboard is not fun. I?ve sat at distant docks twice for 
several days trying to troubleshoot/ wait for a mechanic. I?m not a mechanic, 
and it is increasingly hard to find mechanics that are familiar with this older 
design. I guess I was thinking a 40+ year old engine, even one that is being 
regularly maintained, has more surprises up its sleeve than I am used to. If it 
wasn?t for the Moyer web site, I?d be completely in the dark. The issues around 
its ignition coil alone has mystified better men than me, as the 
long-as-your-arm threads on the Moyer Marine forum devoted just to this one 
issue would attest. I think I?m on coil # 5, and have plumbed the depths of 2 
qualified mechanics over the years, and the problems just won?t get  
 s 
 olved.  
 
Three years ago I had to rely on the goodwill of a fellow boater to tow us in 
after sitting 2 miles off our holiday destination as the sun was setting in 
zero wind. Two years ago after spending days with a mechanic, the engine died 
again, and I had to push my C & C home using my Avon with a 4 hp kicker. This 
year? well, notwithstanding tune-ups, mechanic time, etc., running it at the 
dock weekly, the engine lasted an hour into our first day before announcing it 
had had enough. Started again later, as it often does, but not quite the 
reliability I had in mind. We sailed onto our anchorage that afternoon, and the 
next day sailed off the hook, but I can?t sail into my home slip.  
 
I can see why a newly rebuilt engine has appeal, but we?re not wealthy, so 
spending up to 10 K on a new engine, installed, would be more than the boat is 
worth, and not something we can afford.  
 
The downsides of an outboard as I gather from your collective responses are: 
 
1) cavitation in waves which means not sufficient oomph in a seaway if you have 
to get anywhere under engine. 
2) not pretty 
3) not in the original design 
4) not cheap (just less expensive than the alternative) 
5) can be annoying hanging over the transom raising/lowering the transom 
mounting bracket 
6) might not supply enough electricity to run house lights/VHF/GPS etc

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

This fellow wished he had ANY kind of engine.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzydL_cUfU4

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

 

 

Marek,

 

 

"In your emails, I hear some of the sentiments I had before we changed boats. 
Our outboard became somewhat unreliable (I think that I eventually traced this 
down to fuel filters and fuel itself) and it was a really bad feeling � every 
time we needed to start the motor I could never say if it would start and how 
long it would last. It takes away from the pleasure of sailing."

 

I had this same feeling with my A4 before this season.  Stalling, and not 
idling properly.  I was reluctant to go anywhere and it took my wife's 
persistance to go out.  Every sail was a feeling of "oh crap, whats gunna fail 
this time..."  It was anything but pleasure...

 

This year is VERY different.  That A4 starts so easily and idles so strong at 
700 RPMs...  Now I'm the one pushing to go out!

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

1) I am not a fair weather sailor, and I do not find cavitation to be 
much of a problem, even in bad weather. I have seen many outboard 
installations that mounted the bracket and the motor too high. Garelick 
makes a LOT of models, and gives all dimensions including range of 
travel. Careful planning affects the outcome of any project. Speedy 
little whizzy props on regular long shaft outboards may have more of an 
issue with cavitation. My prop rarely comes out of the water, except in 
very active following seas, and since it is spinning slower, it doesn't 
cause the motor to rev to to the moon when it does.


2) Practicality can often trump aesthetics. I would rather see an 
outboard on a sailboat than SeaRay style stainless steel handrails 
glaring in the sun. I  could see aesthetics of an outboard possibly 
being an issue on a Hinckley B-40, but not on a C&C 27.


3) The entire effort to reinforce the transom consists of a 3/4 inch 
plywood backing plate and fender washers, and a 1 inch thick pad on the 
exterior made of either starboard or plywood. I changed the original 
plywood for Starboard so I would never have to worry about deterioration 
again in my lifetime. The outboard and bracket weighs probably less than 
half what any inboard weighs, so motion and balance is not adversly 
affected. She sits on her lines.


4) WHAT outboard you pick makes all the difference. My 4 stroke Yamaha 
is as reliable as my car. The high thrust option gives me the TYPE of 
thrust a sailboat needs to be efficient. Small, frantically fast 
propellers may be fine for speed boats, but displacement hulls want low 
end grunt, which means a huge, slow spinning prop. No cavitation is just 
one of the benefits. Fuel efficiancy is another. If you like sailing in 
light air, you are much better off with the prop OUT OF THE WATER, and 
not dragging down your forward progress. Tie a small bucket on a rope 
and toss it overboard while doing 3 or 4 knots, and get an idea of what 
that underwater anchor is doing to sailing performance. There is a 
reason why the outboard version of the boat has a lower PHRF rating than 
the inboard. Oh, yes, the C&C 27 was available new with either an 
inboard or and outboard. Arguments about it being designed only for an 
inboard are ill informed. My C&C 27 came from the factory with an outboard.


5) Raising and lowering. I have a small 4-1 vang with 1/4 inch line, 
between the outboard and the stern rail. My diminuative wife can easily 
raise the motor with one hand while drinking a cup of coffee with the 
other hand. The supposed difficulty of operating the controls has 
likewise been greatly exaggerated. Modern outboards have the gearshift, 
throttle and kill switch mounted on the long tiller within easy reach 
without hanging over the stern to reach them. Being able to use the 
outboard as a stern thruster or to pivot the boat on it's axis is a nice 
benefit. I can turn around in a fairway without a series of backing 
maneuvers. I just turn the outboard to one side, and around I spin.


6) I used to obsess about having enough electricity. Between the 
outboard and a 20 watt solar panel with a genasun controller (MUST be 
genasun) and 2 AGM group 27 batteries, I never seem to go below 75% 
charge no matter what I do. I run a full compliment of VHF, 2 
gps/chartplotters, Depth, wind, and often RADAR. It's just not a 
problem. While the boat is at reast, the solar panel charges that last 
5-10% of capacity that no alternator ever charges.


I agree that this is probably about a $4k conversion, all in, if you do 
it yourself. You will have brand new everything.


Bill Bina
On 8/5/2014 2:26 AM, Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List wrote:
First of all, thanks to everyone for your input. Much appreciated. 
I've not posted very often, but have lurked for years, and I respect 
the voices of the familiar.


I sail out of Vancouver, British Columbia, and most of the cruising we 
do is local, in the summer. We have islands right in our back yard 
(so, my home waters are totally protected), or we will cross Georgia 
Strait (20-25 nautical miles) to get to the very protected Gulf 
Islands on the east side of Vancouver Island. Last year we went north 
up Georgia Strait for 50 or 60 miles to Pender Harbour and crossed to 
Texada Island and back over 10 days or so. I've sailed and raced since 
I was a teen, and this part of the world, in the summer anyway, is 
usually pretty "Pacific". In general, we're /looking/ for breeze in 
the summer, not trying to shelter from too much (although that can 
happen, of course, in which case you hole up for a day or three and 
conduct scientific experiments on the efficacy of various single malt 
whiskeys); I bought a North light air gennaker the year we bought the 
boat, and thank goodness I did, because it's seen lots of use here in 
the Pacific SouthWest (as we Canadians refer to it); crossing the 
Strait is similar to coastal sailing where the C & C hull proves again

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Marek,  "In your emails, I hear some of the sentiments I had before we changed 
boats. Our outboard became somewhat unreliable (I think that I eventually 
traced this down to fuel filters and fuel itself) and it was a really bad 
feeling � every time we needed to start the motor I could never say if 
it would start and how long it would last. It takes away from the pleasure of 
sailing." I had this same feeling with my A4 before this season.  Stalling, and 
not idling properly.  I was reluctant to go anywhere and it took my wife's 
persistance to go out.  Every sail was a feeling of "oh crap, whats gunna fail 
this time..."  It was anything but pleasure... This year is VERY different.  
That A4 starts so easily and idles so strong at 700 RPMs...  Now I'm the one 
pushing to go out!___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I would add re-wiring the harness and any wires to the coil and engine.  Moyer 
sells a kit for that or you could just buy some marine cable.  I was having 
trouble with my engine stalling and not wanting to re-start for an hour at a 
time.  I really could identify with your stranded situations.  It turned out to 
be a bad wire...

You could really be out of this for far less than you think.  I know the 
feeling of just wanting it fixed.  I was at that point this year because of 
poor idling and blamed the A4 being an old technology.  I replaced the carb 
with a rebuilt I had done when I first bought the boat and before I bought the 
moyer and she run like never before.

It does seem like an electrical issue though.

Honestly, the Moyer swap would not cost $10,000.  The best thing about this old 
technology is how easy they are to work on.  If you take the initiative, remove 
the engine, then replace all hoses and filters and make sure the tank is clean 
or replaced while waiting for the new A4, the $ for $ investment would be very 
close between that and the outboard.  I've heard of people using their boom to 
hoist the engine up onto the dock.  I think these things weigh about 300 - 
350lbs.  Moyer will deliver to the marina and send you a crate to send the old 
one back.

The up side is you gain a huge amount of insights into your boat and engine and 
you would still be able to salvage September and October!!

Or, for far less but you could do the wiring and fuel system with the engine in 
place and see if it fixes the issue.  When the engine does run, does it run 
well?  If so, it isn't the engine, it is some support system, i.e. fuel or 
electrical, of the engine.

In the end you will be a better A4 mechanic than anyone you'll be able to find. 
 

You just don't want to throw the baby out with the bath water.

the 3 things an engine needs to run is good spark, Fuel and compression.  take 
those one step at a time, check the compression.  You can get a cheap 
compression tester from Harbor freight or the like.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=compression+tester

You can check spark the old fashioned way of pulling a spark plug and with the 
wire attached hold it near the block and crank.  This you may have to do again 
during an episode of not wanting to start.

I think you will need to replace the fuel system and clean the tank anyway if 
you were planning on feeding the out board fuel from the existing on board 
tank.  So this you should probably just do.  

Again, most of this is parts changing, out with the old in with the new and 
some peripheral vision during the process will help clean up some questionable 
issues along the way.  The problem with a "profession Marine Mechanic" that I 
have seen is, the cutting of corners and tunnel vision.  They just want to move 
on to the next project and call the current one done and don't tend to address 
adjacent problems while they are "in there."  I do far better work that anyone 
I have EVER hired to do work on my boat.  I have a very recent, long story 
about hiring professional that cost me 6 weeks of this season because they were 
sure they were right and I was wrong.  If they had done the job right over the 
winter and tested their work I'd have been sailing in May...

I think you should step back, take a breath, put your frustration aside, roll 
up you sleeves and re-wire that puppy and re-place all your fuel lines and 
filters and get that tank clean.

How do you get it back running after a non-starting episode?  I've heard about 
floating debris in the tank causing issues, blocking a passage during operation 
and then floating away after a while of non operation.  Or (as in my earlier 
case) as the systems heat up and expand, a faulty wire losing its, connection 
due to expansion and cooling and contraction repaired the conduit so it could 
start again until it warmed and expanded again...

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
To: "'John Pennie'" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 08:03:52 -0400

Paul

If the block is OK and you have good compression and this hasn't been done
yet, I would get a price to upgrade to electric fuel pump, electronic
ignition, rebuild the carb (professionally), Install a good fuel filter /
separator and smaller in-line fuel filter downstream from the separator,
empty the fuel tank and change ALL fuel lines then refill with fresh treated
fuel. All that can be done with the motor in the boat. Take your time and
find a good mechanic that has experience with this motor. Can't imagine that
would be more than a couple $K. Certainly less than a refit to an outboard.
Just about any engine can be made to run reliably. Since the advent of
ethanol, fuel has become a persistent problem. Getting rid of the points
will remove the potential for a few problems, too.

Just a suggestion. Good luck!

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

Re your coil:  if they are failing that often it could well be the result of 
too much current through the primary. That would also prematurely trash your 
points. Is there a ballast resistor in the circuit?

Rich

Rich Knowles
IFDS 2014 Worlds
Support Chair

> On Aug 5, 2014, at 3:26, Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> First of all, thanks to everyone for your input. Much appreciated. I’ve not 
> posted very often, but have lurked for years, and I respect the voices of the 
> familiar. 
> 
> I sail out of Vancouver, British Columbia, and most of the cruising we do is 
> local, in the summer. We have islands right in our back yard (so, my home 
> waters are totally protected), or we will cross Georgia Strait (20-25 
> nautical miles) to get to the very protected Gulf Islands on the east side of 
> Vancouver Island. Last year we went north up Georgia Strait for 50 or 60 
> miles to Pender Harbour and crossed to Texada Island and back over 10 days or 
> so. I’ve sailed and raced since I was a teen, and this part of the world, in 
> the summer anyway, is usually pretty “Pacific”. In general, we’re looking for 
> breeze in the summer, not trying to shelter from too much (although that can 
> happen, of course, in which case you hole up for a day or three and conduct 
> scientific experiments on the efficacy of various single malt whiskeys); I 
> bought a North light air gennaker the year we bought the boat, and thank 
> goodness I did, because it’s seen lots of use here in the Pacific SouthWest 
> (as we Canadians refer to it); crossing the Strait is similar to coastal 
> sailing where the C & C hull proves again and again it is very sea kindly. I 
> have only used the engine because there is zero wind, hence little or no 
> waves. When there is breeze, we sail! And of course, motoring into most slips 
> is required. 
> 
> What led me to ask about outboards is that every year for the last 5, we have 
> departed on summer vacations and ended up being stranded somewhere with 
> Atomic 4 issues. Spinning around in circles at the whim of the tidal currents 
> in zero wind with wife and kids aboard is not fun. I’ve sat at distant docks 
> twice for several days trying to troubleshoot/ wait for a mechanic. I’m not a 
> mechanic, and it is increasingly hard to find mechanics that are familiar 
> with this older design. I guess I was thinking a 40+ year old engine, even 
> one that is being regularly maintained, has more surprises up its sleeve than 
> I am used to. If it wasn’t for the Moyer web site, I’d be completely in the 
> dark. The issues around its ignition coil alone has mystified better men than 
> me, as the long-as-your-arm threads on the Moyer Marine forum devoted just to 
> this one issue would attest. I think I’m on coil # 5, and have plumbed the 
> depths of 2 qualified mechanics over the years, and the problems just won’t 
> get solved. 
> 
> Three years ago I had to rely on the goodwill of a fellow boater to tow us in 
> after sitting 2 miles off our holiday destination as the sun was setting in 
> zero wind. Two years ago after spending days with a mechanic, the engine died 
> again, and I had to push my C & C home using my Avon with a 4 hp kicker. This 
> year… well, notwithstanding tune-ups, mechanic time, etc., running it at the 
> dock weekly, the engine lasted an hour into our first day before announcing 
> it had had enough. Started again later, as it often does, but not quite the 
> reliability I had in mind. We sailed onto our anchorage that afternoon, and 
> the next day sailed off the hook, but I can’t sail into my home slip. 
> 
> I can see why a newly rebuilt engine has appeal, but we’re not wealthy, so 
> spending up to 10 K on a new engine, installed, would be more than the boat 
> is worth, and not something we can afford. 
> 
> The downsides of an outboard as I gather from your collective responses are:
> 
> 1) cavitation in waves which means not sufficient oomph in a seaway if you 
> have to get anywhere under engine.
> 2) not pretty
> 3) not in the original design
> 4) not cheap (just less expensive than the alternative)
> 5) can be annoying hanging over the transom raising/lowering the transom 
> mounting bracket
> 6) might not supply enough electricity to run house lights/VHF/GPS etc needs 
> (true? would this be an issue?)
> 
> I have to admit, those are a lot of negatives. Food for thought for my wife 
> and I. 
> 
> Again, your thoughts are much appreciated.
> 
> -Paul
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of

Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Bill via CnC-List]

Paul,
 
My first boat had a Palmer P-60, a  flat-head 4 cylinder derived from an 
International Cub Cadet tractor engine, and  similar to the Atomic 4. It was 
raw-water cooled, and the boat was in salt  water. I had endless running 
problems with it over the years. The problems were  both electrical (ignition) 
and carburetor-related.
 
Conversion of the ignition system to  electronic ignition (no more points 
in the distributor) made a tremendous  improvement, but I still had 
carburetor issues. A real pain to remove it. 
 
I wondered when I bought the boat why  the previous owner had left me a 
box-end wrench cut in half. I soon found out  that there was no room to use a 
full-length wrench (or a socket) to remove  the carburetor bolts. It was so 
tight on that side of the engine that a  "half-wrench" was needed to remove 
the bolts.
 
After several years of trying everything  else, I finally decided to 
completely pump out the fuel tank. I found, at the  bottom of the 35-gallon 
tank, 
at least 1" of water which had apparently  accumulated over time. I have no 
idea why the water never showed up in the  various fuel filters I had tried 
over the years.
 
I completely cleaned the tank as best I  could, and refilled it with fresh 
fuel. I never had another problem with the  engine (other than head gaskets 
corroding and leaking, but that's another story)  over the next 10 years 
that I owned the boat.
 
Perhaps this "cure" will work for  you.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
Landfall 39
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/5/2014 8:04:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

Paul

If the block is OK and you have good compression and  this hasn't been done
yet, I would get a price to upgrade to electric fuel  pump, electronic
ignition, rebuild the carb (professionally), Install a  good fuel filter /
separator and smaller in-line fuel filter downstream  from the separator,
empty the fuel tank and change ALL fuel lines then  refill with fresh 
treated
fuel. All that can be done with the motor in the  boat. Take your time and
find a good mechanic that has experience with this  motor. Can't imagine 
that
would be more than a couple $K. Certainly less  than a refit to an outboard.
Just about any engine can be made to run  reliably. Since the advent of
ethanol, fuel has become a persistent  problem. Getting rid of the points
will remove the potential for a few  problems, too.

Just a suggestion. Good luck!

-Original  Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On  Behalf Of John
Pennie via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 7:46  AM
To: Paul and Darlene Clarke; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re:  Stus-List follow-up on outboards

Paul:

I hear you and feel you  pain.  Been there.

Just don't underestimate the cost of the  outboard route.  Even with a
combination of yard/DIY/Ebay I can't see  this being less than a 4k project
and will easily top 6k yard alone.   That includes removing the A4, removing
all the associated systems and  filling in some pretty big holes.  Beef up
the transom, buy an  electric start outboard, a decent bracket and engine
controls.  None  of this will add a dime of value to your boat. 

Electric is interesting  but really doesn't like being away from dockside
power for more than a  night.  That is likely an 8-10k project. as you still
need to remove  many of the components and upgrade both your charging system
and  batteries.

Repowering with diesel is going to be in the same range. at  least

At the end of the day, I suspect the choice really comes down to  a total
rebuild vs. time to sell.

Just an  opinion.

John


___
This  List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email  address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences,  including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page  at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This  List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email  address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences,  including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
page  at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard

[Curtis via CnC-List]

I had to replace the 2gm15 diesel in my C&C 30 within the first year of
owning the boat. I am in no way a mechanic. I got the boat for $2,500.00
bucks and knew it had some issues. I took it on as a project boat. The boat
had been sitting in the saltwater for 5 years unattended without flushing
out the saltwater. The little 2 cylinder yanmar ran for 22 hrs and died. I
shopped around and found a low hour 2GM20F on E-Bay. I removed the old
engine and installed the newer one using my boom and a com-a-long. It was
easy-peasy. It took some time and some learning as I went. But I got it
done and the engine cost $2,500. That's right as much as the boat! But now
I have a great little engine and a fantastic Boat. I now have a skill set
in which I can help others or myself if I ever need to use it. I would
suggest the DIY projects are not near as hard as they seem. I know you can
save a bundle of loot. We all could use more cruising kitty. I say snatch
it out and have it rebuilt or pick up a good used one and install it
yourself. Good luck.


On Mon, Aug 4, 2014 at 10:22 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One more thing nobody mentioned yet.
>
> With the outboard we had, my wife could not, even if our lives depended on
> that, drop the motor down (you had to lift it a bit first) and start it
> (pull start). Even if yours is complaining (or unhappy) with your current
> flaky A4, trust me, she will be much less happy with the outboard. I know,
> there are better brackets and there are electric start motors, but the
> inboard provides (normally) much more reliable and (readily available)
> power.
>
> I solved the problem by moving to a bigger boat (as Kim below), but that's
> another story.
>
> Marek
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kim
> Brown
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 6:07 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard
>
> I have had both. FWIW I would never go back to Outboard. My Catalina 27 had
> a 15hp and was pretty well designed for it. Transom had a cut out in the
> middle and the motor simply tilted up into this cut out- no bracket. There
> was room on either side for a 5 gal gas can. There was enough power(note
> this was a 15hp and not the 9.9 suggested) but chop was a problem as the
> prop would come out of the water. And it didn't have electric start so you
> had to pull the cord to start it in a very awkward position. If you go with
> an outboard you'll likely be stuck with a bracket. With some bracket
> installations (and a well installation on a Henderson 30 I sailed on) you
> are starting the motor with it in the air and then dropping it down so it
> has access to cooling water.  Again very awkward positions to start if
> using
> a pull cord.  You will be likely limited on motor size by the weight limit
> of the bracket so pay attention. You can get it to work but you are just
> trading one set of issues for another.  If you simply use the motor to get
> out of the harbor on nice days or to the race course, it is certainly
> viable. If you just race- get a 3.5HP and take it off before the start and
> stow below if your PHRF allows;-)  If you cruise and motor extensively then
> the drawbacks will increase- cavitating in chop; undersized HP (due to
> weight concerns); limited battery charging.  And as others have alluded
> the cost comparison needs to include any needed transom reinforcement; the
> bracket; motor; remote controls (you really don't want to be adjusting
> throttle and shifting by reaching over the transom); and removing the old
> running gear and plugging the shaft hole.  Good luck I know how frustrating
> a flaky motor can be. In my case I solved it by buying a bigger boat with a
> diesel...
>
> Kim Brown
> Trust Me!!! 35-3
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*


*Port Royal,*


*South Carolina*

*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

.
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Paul,

you said:

The downsides of an outboard as I gather from your collective responses are:

1) cavitation in waves which means not sufficient oomph in a seaway if you have 
to get anywhere under engine.
2) not pretty
3) not in the original design
4) not cheap (just less expensive than the alternative)
5) can be annoying hanging over the transom raising/lowering the transom 
mounting bracket
6) might not supply enough electricity to run house lights/VHF/GPS etc. needs 
(true? would this be an issue?)


1. this may not affect you (you say you motor in calm waters), but it is an 
issue, even in moderate swells
2. secondary
3. ditto; though you will need to reinforce the transom
4. may not be true, especially, if you can resuscitate your original A4. Some 
suggestions about the modifications are pretty interesting (and should address 
most of your problems)
5. this is more than annoyance. Not knowing your age and physical ability, it 
is hard to say how big an issue it is, but lowering and raising the outboard 
motor is not a trivial thing to do, especially, if the boat is moving in the 
waves. Btw. this was one of the primary reasons why we upgraded to a bigger 
boat with an inboard.
6. almost certainly. Most outboards have big enough alternator to supply power 
just to run it; there is very little spare left. A bigger alternator would 
require a bigger engine and suddenly p.5 becomes a big issue. You would have to 
consider solar (or wind) even just to keep up with your electronics on board (I 
am not even talking about recharging batteries after a night on the hook).

Your answer to p.1 indicates that you have issues with no wind, where you want 
to motor. My experience is that it makes a tremendous difference if you have an 
inboard vs. outboard. To me and my wife, the sound of the outboard was annoying 
enough that we never (really) motored other than out and into the harbour. If 
we were moving even at 1 kt. the engine was silent (if there was less wind, we 
would not go out or if we expected wind to die down, we would shorten our day). 
With the inboard, we have already motored for almost 1 h without any (lasting) 
effects on our sanity.

In your emails, I hear some of the sentiments I had before we changed boats. 
Our outboard became somewhat unreliable (I think that I eventually traced this 
down to fuel filters and fuel itself) and it was a really bad feeling – every 
time we needed to start the motor I could never say if it would start and how 
long it would last. It takes away from the pleasure of sailing.___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Paul

If the block is OK and you have good compression and this hasn't been done
yet, I would get a price to upgrade to electric fuel pump, electronic
ignition, rebuild the carb (professionally), Install a good fuel filter /
separator and smaller in-line fuel filter downstream from the separator,
empty the fuel tank and change ALL fuel lines then refill with fresh treated
fuel. All that can be done with the motor in the boat. Take your time and
find a good mechanic that has experience with this motor. Can't imagine that
would be more than a couple $K. Certainly less than a refit to an outboard.
Just about any engine can be made to run reliably. Since the advent of
ethanol, fuel has become a persistent problem. Getting rid of the points
will remove the potential for a few problems, too.

Just a suggestion. Good luck!

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Pennie via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 7:46 AM
To: Paul and Darlene Clarke; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

Paul:

I hear you and feel you pain.  Been there.

Just don't underestimate the cost of the outboard route.  Even with a
combination of yard/DIY/Ebay I can't see this being less than a 4k project
and will easily top 6k yard alone.  That includes removing the A4, removing
all the associated systems and filling in some pretty big holes.  Beef up
the transom, buy an electric start outboard, a decent bracket and engine
controls.  None of this will add a dime of value to your boat. 

Electric is interesting but really doesn't like being away from dockside
power for more than a night.  That is likely an 8-10k project. as you still
need to remove many of the components and upgrade both your charging system
and batteries.

Repowering with diesel is going to be in the same range. at least

At the end of the day, I suspect the choice really comes down to a total
rebuild vs. time to sell.

Just an opinion.

John


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Paul:

I hear you and feel you pain.  Been there.

Just don’t underestimate the cost of the outboard route.  Even with a 
combination of yard/DIY/Ebay I can’t see this being less than a 4k project and 
will easily top 6k yard alone.  That includes removing the A4, removing all the 
associated systems and filling in some pretty big holes.  Beef up the transom, 
buy an electric start outboard, a decent bracket and engine controls.  None of 
this will add a dime of value to your boat. 

Electric is interesting but really doesn’t like being away from dockside power 
for more than a night.  That is likely an 8-10k project. as you still need to 
remove many of the components and upgrade both your charging system and 
batteries.

Repowering with diesel is going to be in the same range… at least

At the end of the day, I suspect the choice really comes down to a total 
rebuild vs. time to sell.

Just an opinion.

John


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com