Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II backstay

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Wichard makes some nice gear, as in ratchet adjuster

https://marine.wichard.com/en/stainless-steel-hardware/rigging-adjusters/backstay-adjusters

I recall Harken made a few many years ago too.

Cheers, Russ


At 12:20 PM 8/15/2020, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_2530921_609703134.1597519246996"
Content-Length: 2119

Raced on a friend's old Morgan 30 (the big heavy one, not the 
classic 300) and we just used the wheel, setting it up before the 
race. Sometimes we had a rail guy take off on the downwind leg and 
then tighten it up again before the beat.

For cruising, it really wouldn't matter about timeliness.
Another boat, a SJ 28, had rachet lever where the wheel would be. It 
could be switched to go forward or reverse obviously. That went just 
about as fast as the hydraulics. Don't know where one could find a 
rachet like that.

Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL



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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

You bring me a smile with this.

It's inconceivable!  I love the movie. The missus & I watch it at 
least once every year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhXjcZdk5QQ

Cheers, Russ


At 06:43 AM 8/5/2020, you wrote:

It is inconceivable that a magnet could be missing, unless you are 
missing an entire leg of one of the four paddles, as they are molded 
right inside the plastic.

Did you pull it out and check it with a magnet?

Bill Coleman
Erie PA

Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2


What is the number o' magnets supposed you be on the paddle-wheel? 
If it is more than one then one is missing,


Cheers, Russ



At 09:57 AM 8/4/2020, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="3255BA44138849C8E1038307"
Content-Language: en-US

One possible thing is the calibration is way off.

Joe

Coquina
On 8/4/2020 12:21 PM, General Gao wrote:

I wanted to come back to this thread. Did some cleaning on land, had 
my daughter rotated the Hall effect sensor, the needle moved, 
thought it was all good. We later launched the boat and it turned 
out that the reading was off still. It read about half of what it 
was supposed to be.


What would this indicate?

Thanks,

Bo
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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Only if the coating increases friction and reduces the ability to 
turn freely then Yup. it could.


I lost a magnet a few decades ago, probably hit an small object as it 
looked "chipped out".


Cheers, Russ


At 06:39 AM 8/5/2020, you wrote:



Would coating the paddlewheel with anhydrous lanolin screw up the readings?

David F. Risch
401-419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill 
Coleman via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2020 10:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

Two.
Bill Coleman

On Tue, Aug 4, 2020, 8:26 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


What is the number o' magnets supposed you be on the paddle-wheel? 
If it is more than one then one is missing,


Cheers, Russ



At 09:57 AM 8/4/2020, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="3255BA44138849C8E1038307"
Content-Language: en-US

One possible thing is the calibration is way off.

Joe

Coquina
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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

What is the number o' magnets supposed you be on 
the paddle-wheel? If it is more than one then one is missing,


Cheers, Russ



At 09:57 AM 8/4/2020, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="3255BA44138849C8E1038307"
Content-Language: en-US

One possible thing is the calibration is way off.

Joe

Coquina
On 8/4/2020 12:21 PM, General Gao wrote:
I wanted to come back to this thread. Did some 
cleaning on land, had my daughter rotated the 
Hall effect sensor, the needle moved, thought 
it was all good. We later launched the boat and 
it turned out that the reading was off still. 
It read about half of what it was supposed to be.


What would this indicate?

Thanks,

Bo

On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 1:32 PM Joe Della Barba 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Dielectric grease is made specifically for 
electrical use. Any auto parts store has it for about $5.


Joe

Coquina
On 5/23/2020 12:54 PM, General Gao via CnC-List wrote:

that is what I am thinking. Would vaseline work?

Thank you,

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 3:49 PM Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Put some dielectric grease on the connections ;)

Â

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35Â  MK I

www.dellabarba.com

Â

Â

Â

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of General Gao via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 3:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao <general.z@gmail.com>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

Â

Reporting back. followed the guide and 
verified the transmitter had resistance of 
1787ohms, verified there was VAC output when 
the paddle was turning fast (couldn't get to 
the 5knots as boat is on land). Decided to 
sand the connectors, and put it back, tested 
again, and it worked...the connectors looked without rust, a bit surprised.


Â

Thank you everyone for the kind help!

Â

Stay safe, stay healthy.

Â

Regards,

Â

Bo

Â

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao 
<general.z@gmail.com> wrote:


thank you everyone. I really appreciate the 
information. I will go check and report back.


Â

Stay safe!

Â

Bo

Â

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Yup, that's correct. If there are only two 
wires coming from the paddlewheel transducer, 
it is likely this 'generator' type as a more 
modern hall effect transducer will have at least three wires (I think).


Â

Of course a broke wire or bad connection 
anywhere between the transducer and the 
instrument will cause it all to not 
work.  We would just pull the transducer and 
connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see what happens.


Â

From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:

Â

TROUBLESHOOTINGÂ

Â

DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be 
either the transmitter or the display. Please 
follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the problem-


Â

A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter 
with an ohm meter for resistance value of 
approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the paddlewheel.


a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for 
any broken fins or missing magnets.


b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.

B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the 
paddlewheel is spinning. You should get 
approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of 
speed when unloaded (not hooked up to display).


INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as 
normal and add an AC voltmeter to where the 
input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as usual-


Â

A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no 
speed indication appears on display, then the problem is in the display.


B. If readings only occur when voltages are 
produced, then the paddlewheel is not always 
turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure 
it spins freely, and then try again. If the 
results are the same then paddlewheel may need replacing.  Â


Â

Â

Â

On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


So if I understand it correctly, the theory of 
operation for these generator style knot 
meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a 
voltage developed between the two?  I would 
expect that a simple initial test would be for 
continuity between the two wires with the 
wheel stopped.  Then spin the wheel and check 
for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.


Â

Josh MuckleyÂ

S/V Sea HawkÂ

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MDÂ

Â

Â

On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
we bought her. If memory serves, it topped 

Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 in RI

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I think so.

Aren't the teak gunwale caps are a key indicator of the C Landfill 
series? (Says, the ex-racing sailor with a )


I enjoyed occasionally chiding Wally about it.

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 09:35 AM 7/28/2020, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_DM5PR20MB21497DC48A2783596CCA7B10F2730DM5PR20MB2149namp_"

Is it really a Landfall?  Doesn't look like any Landfall I have seen.

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

--
From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeffrey 
Brideau via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeffrey Brideau
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 in RI

That's the one. The pictures are not misleading. It looks that good in person.
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Re: Stus-List Stringer and keel repair 35 MK III

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Davis,

This is a very good question. I would drop the 
keel and restore the stringer/hull integrity first!


This is the basis of your keel/hull interface.

The rebed of keel is fairly routine once this is done.

Cheers, Russ




At 04:52 PM 7/23/2020, you wrote:
Unfortunately, I had to haul Feya because of a 
leaking at the most aft keel bolt. The surveyor 
at the yard has determined that the boat was 
grounded at one time and there is at least one 
stringer that has separated from the hull. ( I 
wish the surveyor for the purchase found this). 
When the hull is sounded in that area, it sounds 
like there are marbles inside. The plan is to 
repair the stringer and rebed and glass in the 
keel. I will be able to bring the boat to my 
backyard and do it on my time. I will have the 
yard rebed because they will drop the keel and 
eval the condition of the bottom of the keel 
stub, and repair if necessary. They will also 
place shims to decrease play at the joint.Â


My question is, should the stringer be repaired 
before or after the keel hull joint?Â


Thanks in advance.

David Swensen
Freya
C 35 MK III
Salem, MA
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Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

Don't sweat the small stuff. It doesn't matter a 
wit if the cutlass bearing overhangs the strut by 
an 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 or is flush. Zero, nada.


I would centre the difference for ascetics reason and call it a day.

Interestingly I had this situation on Sweet (in 
the ol' days) and there was no interference in 
the fit. It didn't require thermal difference or 
a press-fit, simply relying on a set screw.
To backup the set screw a simple centre punch to 
raise a dimple fore & aft in the exposed ends can 
keep it from "walking out" of the strut.


Cheers, Russ
Vancouver Island



At 09:08 PM 7/8/2020, you wrote:
Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has 
replaced the shaft with a larger size.  A few 
other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts 
are 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4.  The 
original shaft would have come with a strut 
which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 
inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2).  The smallest 
bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 
(1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5).  It appears that the PO 
must have run into a similar problem with this 
combination of original strut and larger shaft 
and must have had the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD.


Now for my next question.  After the machinist 
turned the bearing, he failed to cut it to a 
length of 4-1/2.   The result is a bearing 
which is 1/2 inch too long for the strut.  I 
can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch 
sticking out on either side of the strut.  Or 
some other fraction forward and aft.  Currently 
I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft.  I'm 
not sure if this is good, bad, or indifferent 
and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts.  Cut 
it off?  Leave it?  Move it flush on one side or the other?


Thanks,
Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupler removal

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

That is good news.

Like I said a week ago. Porta Power and a button 
jack and that thing will get off in a few minutes


Oh my

(even if you miss a set screw). :)

Cheers, Russ

At 04:46 PM 6/5/2020, you wrote:
Well, 3 days of absence allowed the PB Blaster 
to work, cause when I went to the boat today I 
swear I could see a tiny hairline area where the 
shaft had pulled out of the coupling.  Each go 
round of the bolts and I got a few more flats 
each and beat on it with a hammer.  Pretty soon 
I was getting more that 1 whole turn on 
each.  Despite making progress, it was slow and 
I ran out of time.  So there it sits soaking in 
more PB Blaster and about 3/8ths out of the 
coupler.  It will have to wait until tomorrow.


Josh Muckley
S /V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



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Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screw

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Rob,

It is best to heed the advice of Dennis.

Use a hand impact driver to get it loose. Then 
maybe hit it with one of the recommended electric tools just for fun.


If you strip the head then the only option is a 
nice bit o' drilling. Which isn't all that bad 
since you will have a nice little pilot "dish". 
And drill at or just slightly less than shank diameter so you can re-tap.


Cheers, Russ


At 06:42 PM 6/1/2020, you wrote:
I've had good luck with a hand impact 
driver.  Just be sure you hold it tight to the 
screw head while you whack it or you'll mess up the screw head.


Used to work on motorcycles a lot.  Hand impact driver was my best friend.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 8:21 PM Robert Abbott via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I want to remove a stanchion but the SS screw in the toe rail into the
stanchion is seized .I have applied PB Blaster, 50% ATF - 50%
Acetonetied putting a Philips head driver and hammering it to break
the bond, no luck.

Scared to try torch heat because of the proximity to the hull and do not
have an impact driver but may get one.

Anyone have any experience with this?


> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupler removal

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

I had a bear of a coupling removal last fall on the project boat.

We did all the usual things first (heat, bolts 
with strongback & socket, swearing, more swearing 
& sweating). Lots of peering at it with lights and a mirror too.


Anyhow, got a Porta-Power rig from work with a 
fabbed 4 bolt strongback (1/2" thick) and jacked 
it off (with heat again). Found out we had missed 
a set screw under the crud which was cleared up 
with Emery cloth so it looked smooth. :)


I used mineral wool insulation to protect the 
hull & sensitive areas form the torch flame.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1
current is Williams Atkins design Margery Daw



At 04:08 AM 6/1/2020, you wrote:

I think I could use a torch safely.  I have ideas for that...Â

On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 05:45 Graham Collins via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Heat.  You don't want to use flame, I get 
that.  How about laying a BBQ charcoal lighter 
on it?  You could probably bend the thing to make more contact.


Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
On 2020-06-01 3:34 a.m., Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Getting the shaft out of the coupler is turning 
out to be quite a trick.  I'm using a large 
socket in the center of the coupler to act as a 
spacer.  Then I'm using the coupler bolts to 
act as clamps and draw tights against the 
socket.  I have lots of penetrating oil in 
just about every location imaginable.  All the 
bolts are as tight as I can make them and I've 
rotated the shaft multiple times to work 
everything around.  Then I used a hammer to 
agitate it, still nothing.  I simply can't get 
the bolts tighter.  The only thing I haven't 
tried is heat.  Got any other suggestions?  Cross posted on FB.


Found this guy on YouTube.  I hope it's not this big of a pain in the ass.
https://youtu.be/ZEnGmLv9B1Q

Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ



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the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
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greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

If I may paraphrase expert COVID advice:
Always use butyl tape/caulk where appropriate, if not then use 3M 
4200. In all other cases 4000 UV or 5200 is best.


I trust this will serve you best.

Humble servant regards, Russ



At 08:45 PM 5/21/2020, you wrote:
I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not 
convinced this is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it 
was not chosen by C during the build except for the hull deck 
joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody have opinions on Butyl 
being better?





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Re: Stus-List Carbon Monoxide detectors (reviving from a few days ago)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

Try putting the CO detector near the elevation of your head when 
seated in the saloon (and close to your bunk). If hydrogen 
accumulates at all it will be much higher, being lighter than air.


Cheers, Russ



At 09:32 AM 5/17/2020, you wrote:


Hello all,

I had put a household, battery powered CO detector on our C/40+ 
a week or two ago, and got on the boat yesterday only to hear it 
going off.  Everything was turned off, so I'm reasonably certain we 
didn't have CO building up.   We do, however, have solar panels, and 
I'm sure they were happily charging the batteries, and some folks 
said that the hydrogen coming off charging we cell batteries will 
set of the detector.


So, is there a detector that won't go off when exposed to 
hydrogen?  Or if I mounted it in the stern berth where we sleep 
instead of in the main salon would that be far enough away that the 
hydrogen should dissipate and not set off the alarm?


I'm not hugely concerned about CO because the only things on board 
that should generate it are our diesel engine and the propane stove 
& grill.  However if cheap and easy enough, I wouldn't mind having one.


Thanks for the insights,

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL



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Re: Stus-List Spilled Epoxy

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,

I routinely clean the epoxy tools with acetone. But I don't believe 
your foam will stand up to it, maybe a little test patch. The fabric 
might be okay.


If the foam cushion is symmetrical then how about removing it from 
the fabric cover and "spilling" a bit o' hardener on the area, then 
rotate installation so that part of the foam is on the bottom. If we 
were talking about a Microsoft product you would sell it as an 
anti-wear "feature".


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1



At 04:41 PM 5/11/2020, you wrote:
I need help. I spilled epoxy resin on my brand new upholstery, and 
it went unnoticed for several days, so it has soaked into the new 
foam also. The area is about 6 sq inches. My question is what do I 
use to remove the resin with out damaging the foam?
I am not to worried about the fabric as I sewed it myself and have 
plenty left over.

Thanks in advance
Doug

--
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
sv Rebecca Leah
C LandFall 39



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Re: Stus-List Spring Fever

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Rod,

Do you have a link for that Transport Canada notice?

 I can't find anything about it... seems kinda 
odd though, being as small boats are typically a 
provincial jurisdiction. Although there are a ton 
of tiny bureaucrats jumping on this covid flu 
thing to enhance their own importance.


We had the RCMP at some boat ramps discouraging 
people from going out to fish at the same time 
the Chief Public Health officer, Dr. Bonnie 
Henry, was telling people to get outside.


Weird times indeed. It might be time to regain 
some of our rights since the hospitals are empty 
and not overwhelming them was the whole purpose of lockdown.


Cheers, Russ



At 03:36 PM 5/3/2020, you wrote:
Thanks Neil hopefully they will allow groups of 
5 or less but they couple that with social 
distancing.  Additionally Transport Canada 
currently says you can only have family you live 
with on the boat, regardless of the size of the 
boat.  Hopefully that will change, last Friday 
you weren’t allowed to work on your boat so that has changed.


Rod



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Re: Stus-List Keel movement- now bolt torque

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Neil,

Thanks for keeping the discussion alive. It is 
good to look at these from various perspectives.


I am glad you recognize that the primary function 
of the keelboat set is to keep the keel/hull 
joint intact. Many people just look at the keel 
weight in water vs on jackstands as the metric 
for decided the re-tighten methodology. If the 
row of bolts were there to hold onto the lead 
keel while the vessel is on beam ends we would 
not tolerate them being on centreline now, would we.


So, you have all bolts tightened up to total a 
200,000 load holding the keel/hull joint together.

Good.
Floating at the marina you have 6000 lbs of lead 
trying to separate that joint. In the boatyard 
you have about 4000 lbs hull trying to compress 
the joint (6000 - 2000 for jackstand support). 
The difference is 10,000 lbs or ~5% of that 
200,000 lb  loading. You may recall the sheet I 
linked to, where it indicates the +/- for 
reaching desired torque is >20%... well within 
the tolerance of the theoretical benefits between these two positions.


So I will restate that I am not in agreement that 
keelboats can only be tightened while ashore.


As a moot point I believe the highest loading on 
the keeljoint is not with the boat on her beam 
ends, a relatively static position with the keel 
well separated from flow. I believe the highest 
loading to be ~30 degree heel and pounding to 
weather in severe conditions where you have the 
dynamic forces of leeway (lateral resistance), 
leverage and shock momentum (abrupt elevation 
changes due to wave height) all added to joint strain.


I do miss my old (1972) 35 mk-1. Sold her a year 
& a half ago to make room in my heart for the 
cruising boat project sitting in my yard. The one 
bright light of this COVID thing for me is the 
amount of epoxy resin & sanding I get to do now. :)


Cheers, Russ




At 02:46 PM 4/25/2020, you wrote:

Keel bolt torque on the hard or in the 
watera classic on Stu's List.  I’ll jump in….


Torquing keel bolts in the water is equivalent 
to tightening the head bolts on an engine while 
it's running, probably not a good idea.  Bolted 
joints are intended to be initially preloaded by 
tightening the nut and bolt before the load is applied.


What has to be considered for keel bolts first 
is that the design condition for the hull/keel 
joint is when the boat is on her beam ends, 
that’s the maximum load that can be applied, and 
in this condition the purpose of the keel bolts 
is to keep the hull/keel interface in 
compression.  If the compression goes to zero – 
let’s say just to illustrate, a gap opens 
between hull and keel – the bolts would now be 
trying to support the keel under bending load, 
and they’d snap in a heartbeat.  ( A quick 
calculation for my 35-1 keel with 6 one-inch 
bolts shows about 200,000 psi stress in that 
condition).  So the point of torquing the bolts 
is to create enough pre-compression in the 
joint, and if you torque while under load, i.e., 
in the water, you are giving up some of that 
margin.  Will it cause the keel to fall 
off?  No, but we’re lessening the safety factor, 
and it’s all about having some margin.  Thus the 
best way to tighten keel bolts is on the hard to get the most preload.


Having said that, in Chris’s case which started 
this discussion, my recommendation was to 
tighten the bolts in the water if his keel’s 
loose, as I said above the last thing you want 
is to lose compression, but to go to a little 
lower torque than in the specs.  Then torque to 
full specs when on the jackstands later.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 4/24/2020 1:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Chris & Josh,

I am not in agreement that keel bolts can only 
be tightened while the boat is ashore.


While that is a convenient activity during the 
annual haulout period that Eastern boats get, 
it is not entirely practical for us on the West 
Coast or the lads down south. We might only haul every two or three years.
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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Chris & Josh,

I am not in agreement that keel bolts can only be 
tightened while the boat is ashore.


While that is a convenient activity during the 
annual haulout period that Eastern boats get, it 
is not entirely practical for us on the West 
Coast or the lads down south. We might only haul every two or three years.


The technical sheet in the link shows the 
theoretical load on a 1" bolt (torque to 350 
ft-lbs spec) is ~12,000 lbs. This is more than 
the weight of the keel such that it does not 
matter whether the keel is supported on the 
ground or hanging in the water, the joint is held 
firmly together by one keelbolt. The rest are not 
required to do anything at this time.

https://www.hobson.com.au/files/technical/utd-gd-torque-tension.pdf

I suggest that the proper procedure for 
tightening keelboats be observed whether the boat is in water or in the yard.


For a 1" keelboat to 350 ft-lbs torque:
start with centre nut and take it to 250 ft-lbs, 
repeat for other nuts alternating for and aft sequence
remove centre nut and lubricate, retorque to 300 
ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above

retorque centre nut to 350 ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above
Then you can a have a beer Chris and reflect on 
how fortunate you are to be sailing B.C South 
Coast. Anything 100 miles to the east of you is beyond Hope.

   :) 

Cheers, Russ
East side o'  Vancouver Island


At 08:15 AM 4/24/2020, you wrote:

Chris,

The prevailing wisdom of this list suggests that 
the keel bolts only be torqued while the boat is 
resting on its keel, generally about 60% of it's 
weight depending on the design.  In this way 
you are not turning the nuts against the weight 
of the keel or even trying to compress the 
bedding material.  IMO, it is likely that you 
will find more movement in the nuts when you retorque on dry land.


I am not familiar with the design of your 
particular boat but some boats have keel bolts 
which are entirely inaccessible with the mast in 
place.  Make sure there isn't one (or two) hiding somewhere.


Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 20:59 Chris Bennett via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Status update: I ended up torquing the keel 
bolts. They were not incredibly loose but all of 
them needed tightening, two by a turn or more 
and the other two by less than a turn. I will 
know if this removed the keel movement when the 
boat is next hauled out, although I am also 
thinking of diving on her to see if I can detect 
any wiggle that way (I live in BC and the water 
is pretty cold but manageable for a few minutes 
with a wet suit - I hope!). I believe that a 
very small looseness in a narrow keel root would 
result in a fairly noticeable movement at the 
tip of a 3 foot keel - even 1/8 inch of movement 
over 2 inches width would translate into a 
couple of inches at the tip, if I have that 
right. So hopefully this was the issue!


I took Drifter for a sail today after rebuilding 
the mast step and did not notice any flexing or 
movement in the floors or hull (made pencil 
marks on the floors and adjacent hull skin and 
checked on different tacks).  I also checked 
the tabbing under the settees on one side and 
found it intact, so suspect that the surveyor 
may have jumped to conclusions when he said the 
hull had been compromised and that was what was causing the keel movement.

Â
 Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions.

ChrisÂ
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Re: Stus-List Interior teak painting

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie,

I don't believe you are crazy for wanting to paint over some teak 
panelling. I've done similar recoats to brighten up a small space.


However, I highly recommend that you apply a slightly thinned coat of 
"varnish" first, as a primer. Thus if you or someone wants to change 
back to teak finish later it is easy to strip and you won't have 
paint bits filling in the pores of the wood (almost impossible to get 
out without damaging the panel).


Cheers, Russ

Oh, and BTW gentlemen, please strip the excess off of messages before 
replying.
As a special courtesy to Stu, give it a bit o' thought to 
housekeeping before posting.



What a nag eh.



At 03:36 PM 2/29/2020, you wrote:



Thanks for your perspectives.

I admit that I had not considered that freshening up the boat as I 
planned would diminish the value--given the sorry state of the water 
stained teak my thought was that it would increase the value!


My thoughts were that something needs done with the current teak in 
the boat--especially the main cabin where the water stains are--and 
that in order to do the teak with varnish, the stains and the teak 
really need cleaned up--far beyond just doing interior varnishing 
over a previously varnished teak. My teak was never varnished, only 
left natural with very occasional oil rubbed on--maybe twice in 25 years.


Given the stains, my guess is that cleaning them up for varnish 
application would likely double the cost of the refresh since the 
surface prep would be extensive and then there are multiple varnish 
coats to be addressed. After likely 5+ boat bucks, I am left with a 
likely very pretty, shiny AND dark teak interior. I have not been to 
any boat shows lately, but all the ads for boats show pictures with 
light, airy, bright interiors. I think that might make my 1995 model 
look more like a 2015 or 2020 model boat down below, as opposed to a 
1985, 1975 or even older boat. Of course, I could be totally wrong 
in this since I have only sold ONE boat in my life!


Painting the faces of the teak doors (both cabin and storage), 
drawers, etc. and leaving the remaining teak alone appears to me to 
keep the cost reasonable AND add substantial brightness to the 
cabin. BTW, my head was finished by the factory in a similar 
manner--almost all the surfaces are off-white (Formica or painted 
wood--not sure)--only the cabinet handles and trim are teak and it 
still looks great.


I am faced with trade-offs of cost vs. change in value (+ or -). I 
doubt that any varnish or paint job will add or subtract 
substantially to the boat value at sale time--its more a matter of
"...the lesser of two weevils..." to copy from Patrick O'Bryan. If I 
am right or even close to it, I need to get the best refresh for the 
money and to me that seems like paint vs. varnish--although I still 
cringe a little when I think of painting over mostly solid, is 
seriously stained, teak!


FWIW,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
New Bern, NC





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Re: Stus-List Raw Water Blocked

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

A friend borrowed my  Fender Jazz Bass in 1986, 
travelled to Alberta and 'lost" it in Edmonton.


If anyone finds one in their raw water strainer 
may I check it for identification? I miss that bass sometimes.


Cheers, Russ
ex Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast, Vancouver Island, east side

At 06:32 PM 1/5/2020, you wrote:

Much better than a large smallmouth bass. Or a Fender Jazz Bass.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sun, 5 Jan 2020 at 10:53, Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


This fall when winterizing, I found a small, Â 
largemouth bass halfway into my strainer!


Â

Â

Bill Coleman

Erie, PA

Â

Â

Â

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 4:31 PM
To: C
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raw Water Blocked

Â

Tom

Â

You said:Â Alera has a blockage somewhere in the 
raw water system.  I checked the intake and 
the pump.  Both seem fine But, there seems to be no flow at the strainer.


Â

You likely have sucked up some trash or 
possibly a small fish and this blocking the raw 
water intake line between the intake & the 
strainer. Just my 2 cents worth having been 
there and done that a few times on the 43 years that we have owned Honey


Â

Â

Best regards,
Jack FitzgeraldÂ
S/V HONEY - US12788

C 39 TM (1974)
Savannah, GA 31410 USA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you

Â

Â

Â

On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 2:34 PM Stephen Thorne 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


It’s also possible the exhaust elbow has 
become corroded.  I had to replace one because of same issue.


Â

Steve Thorne

Deja Vu

Â

On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 1:05 PM John and Maryann 
Read via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Tom

What engine do you have?  Fresh or raw water 
cooled?   Common issue for Yanmar is exhaust 
riser getting plugged by carbon etc where water 
enters.  Will also impact engine 
performance.  Disconnect hose where enters 
exhaust riser.  If water streams, then you have 
your answer.  Also check the fitting where hose 
attaches to riser – is clear??  If not, best 
place is check if any blockage at intake or 
strainer – maybe ssomething got into and plugged 
the hose??  A friend’s hose inlet has less 
than ideal configuration and frequently sucks up 
eel grass and such and plugs the inlet 
hose.  Another culprit might be the pump 
impeller lost a vane and is stuck in the system before the strainer.


Â

Just some thoughts and good luck

Â

Â

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

Â

Â

Â

Â

Â

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Raw Water Blocked

Â

Alera has a blockage somewhere in the raw water 
system.  Nothing out the exhaust.Â


Â

 I checked the intake and the pump.  Both seem 
fine.  But, there seems to be no flow at the strainer.


Â

I am wondering if there is some maintenance 
needed for the vented loop?  It is the next 
link in the chain and I’m running out of links.


Tom Buscaglia

S/V AleraÂ

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

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the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Spencer,

Good to hear. I too find that clear polyurethane coatings are too 
viscous for the shells dispersing... paint too.


The idea of waiting until after tack is so you don't sand between 
coats. In this application a next day overcoat is usually just fine.


I think someone else suggested taping the holly strips as I hadn't 
thought of it. Seems a little anal to me for something you trod on 
anyhow. A sole is supposed to functional not something that you might 
pour a wine and sit on to admire. Yeesh.


I stopped using walnut shells on deck applications because the 
coating gets rubbed off quickly and the turn dark. In easy going 
applications it's not a concern.
On companionway treads & such I like the subtle contrast when it goes 
darker as it's good for old eyes to discern the steps, etc.


Using that jam jar mod is brilliant. And I hear that down south it 
can also be used to apply bourbon (to yourself, without the lid).


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island



Hi Russ! Good idea...I was just following the included instructions 
by mixing with the polyurethane first...this kinda worked but didn't 
disperse the walnut shells evenly.I created a test board, put a few 
coats of Minwax Satin Polyurethane on it, then with a wet coat and a 
re-purposed jam jar with a nail hole in the top (not too big) I 
sprinkled as evenly as possible, let it dry (spreading a wet coat 
over the not-so-wet coat kinda messed up the bottom coat). Letting 
it dry completely and adding another coat seemed to work as I 
liked.Taping the Holly stripes seemed to cause more surface 
disruption...pulling the tape up right after laying down a coat left 
tape lines/ridges that are a bit annoying.=C2=A0 I will be testing 
without taping and see how annoying the walnut shells are on the holly..
UPDATE: Using an old jam jar with one small nail hole init for the 
walnut shells I was able to control the sprinkle onto the wet 
polyurethane evenly.
The proof will be when I replace the cabin sole and lay down the 
rugs to see how easily they move around.
IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells just 
let me know where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam 
jar that I will never use.  I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons 
more than cover a typical cabin sole...


Spencer Johnson
84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165
Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole resurfacing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Spencer,

For walnut shells application try wetting out a separate test piece 
and sprinkle the walnut shells onto it with something like a salt 
shaker. Then a topcoat when just past tacky.


Cheers, Russ


At 11:51 AM 11/17/2019, you wrote:


  ..


Getting the right ratio of walnut to Polyuruthane took some 
testingI found that 1.5 teaspoons walnut to 4 oz. Polyuruthane 
seemed to work.  The final problem is how to keep the crushed 
walnuts suspended long enough to get enough on the brush.   We'll see...


Spencer Johnson
84 LF38 "Alegria"
Racine/Waukegan
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Re: Stus-List Yamaha 4 hp 2 cycle help

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi David (and Marek),

I can't believe it's been so long to reply... I 
gotta retire soon. I am way too busy now.


I like what Marek has determined, below.

A couple o' things to add:
- not just impeller but often the impediment to 
cooling flow is a restriction between the block 
outlet and injection to exhaust. Take apart all 
the hoses and clean out debris with a wire pick


- the crab float shutoff thing is not uncommon in 
old engines. I have outboard motors and 
motorcycles dating back to the 70s. On some, to 
rehab the carb/float situation it is simply a 
matter of removing the carb gas feed hose and 
spraying in a cleaner/lube such as WD-40. It 
cleans any debris and gives a nice film to lube up the needle 7 seat on a carb.
If that doesn't work for your situation with 
dropping gas in the stowed position. I suggest a 
practical solution that I used in the summer o' 
'08.. Simply rotate the power head so the tiller 
handle/ throttle know is facing in the up 
position. The carb won't drain out in this position.


cheers, Russ





At 06:42 PM 11/8/2019, you wrote:


My $0.02:

 - Engine sounds as if it is running dry 
exhaust.  Crappy mechanic said it was a 
"gasket"...where could that be?   Its not an 
exhaust manifold gasket... [MD] – I would 
suspect the impeller first (like in an inboard); they do fail.


 - When engine tilted, fuel runs out of cowl 
unless fuel shut-off closed.  Said mechanic 
said a "pin" was missing? [MD] – the carburetor 
probably leaks; my first suspect would be the 
float and “pin” that closes the valve for the fuel.



Marek
Ottawa, ON
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Thanks for letting us know Mike.

See you soon dear.


At 08:30 AM 11/9/2019, you wrote:

Ok.  Leaving  home now.  Will be there in 15 mins

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew 
L. Wolford via CnC-List

Sent: November 9, 2019 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing



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Re: Stus-List Yamaha 4 hp 2 cycle help

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I love these little Japanese motors but mine (I have a few) usually 
don't need much work.


What is wrong with her?

cheers, Russ



At 02:25 PM 11/7/2019, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_CY4PR1601MB132048E0930E70320B5ECFADDA780CY4PR1601MB1320_"

Anyone have experience working on these?  Ripped off by mechanic and 
not much online for self help.


Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.

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Re: Stus-List Gargantuan Power Boat

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

I don't know the boat but I bet they shut the lights off for an hour 
on Earth Day.


:)

Cheers, Russ


At 09:30 AM 10/12/2019, you wrote:
Does anyone who has gone to the Sailboat Show know anything about 
the huge boat in front of the Annapolis Yacht Club? You cannot even 
see the club behind it!


Bill Coleman
Erie PA
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Re: Stus-List Favorite on board boat "go to" tools

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

When I grow up I want to be like Jim.

Cheers, Russ



At 10:26 PM 10/7/2019, you wrote:

I like the way you think.  Actually what I expected outa Jim!

randy
Tamanawas
29-2,
The Gorge


> On Oct 7, 2019, at 9:43 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:

>
>
> I love my Fluke multi-meter industrial quality. It the standard 
for hand meter at our power plant.  I bought the boat unit at a 
thrift shop, found next to a box of old "remotes", for 10 bucks!

>
> The essential boat tools are:
> - 4 ounce shot glass
> - bttl of Oakheart
> - bttl of Gosling Black Seal (and ginger beer/lime)
>
>
>
>



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Re: Stus-List Favorite on board boat "go to" tools

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I love my Fluke multi-meter industrial quality. 
It the standard for hand meter at our power 
plant.  I bought the boat unit at a thrift shop, 
found next to a box of old "remotes", for 10 bucks!


The essential boat tools are:
- 4 ounce shot glass
- bttl of Oakheart
- bttl of Gosling Black Seal (and ginger beer/lime)
- Gorrilla tape
- self fusing tape
- High temperature RTV silicone
- knockometer (hammer)
-

cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 11:51 AM 10/7/2019, you wrote:
We all have our favorite tools we keep on the 
boat.  Here's two of mine that I use frequently.


Fluke 101 multimeter.  For years I kept a $20 
multimeter from a big box store on the boat in a 
zip lock bag.  It worked fine.  A few months 
ago I bought a Fluke 101 on Amazon for 
$40.  MUCH better meter.  For those not into 
electrical, Fluke makes very good meters.  I 
have a Fluke 85 multimeter that I used in my 
marine repair business for years.  The 101 is its baby brother.


Gearwrench 85035 Microdriver Set.  I love this 
tool.  It gets in tight spots, applies extra 
leverage needed to break loose fasteners and 
gets used a LOT on Touche' and around my house.  I have 3 of them. Â


Seems like I could probably complete 90% of the 
jobs on the boat with these two tools.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Andy,

It might be time for your mechanic to update his 
old info. It's not his father's synthetic oil on the market these days.


A simple gargle search:
http://gcocregina.ca/can-synthetic-oil-be-used-in-older-vehicles/
https://myengineneeds.com/what-synthetic-oil-is-better-for-older-cars/
https://www.gmpartsonline.net/blog/synthetic-oil-safe-older-truck


As I say, oil is the cheapest thing a yachtsman 
buys for his precious boat. Why not spend the 
extra 20 bucks a year and get the best? Think 
anchor gear... most years you don't need the best 
gear so why haul all that extra weight around?


`   Cheers, Russ


At 07:11 AM 9/2/2019, you wrote:
For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils 
and I wouldn’t think of not change the filter 
with each oil change. When I installed the new 
engine in my 40 two years ago I asked the 
mechanic about using synthetic oil and was told 
absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.


Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List engine oil -> engine stories

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

As a further aside, I bought an old Scott-Atwater 20 HP motor from an 
auction, when I was 13 or 14 years old. I put it on my 12' plywood 
runabout but it was unreliable due to poor compressor. Stories and 
folk lore of the day led us to belive that Bon-Ami (a cleaning 
powder) could restore an engine.


We.., be damned. It did. A friend spooned almost half a small box 
into the carburetor while I had it at WOT. The motor revs started 
climbing and the boat got up on plane. That old O/B ran another two 
season before I got a nice used Mercury 20 HP. I suspect the powder 
gunked up the piston & cylinder so much to take out a bunch of clearance.


I would not recommend the practice.

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:14 AM 9/1/2019, you wrote:
As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8.  I 
wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used 
a nice detergent 10-30.  The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the 
bearings and engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil 
that a could not see out the rear view mirror.


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Ron, Wade & Bill,

It seems engine oil can be an emotional topic. For any experienced 
yachtsmen out there who have a system and are happy with it, please 
don't change any practice that works for you on my account.


For newbies and others, I typically advise that engine oil is the 
cheapest thing we buy for our boats. Change it as often as you feel 
like it. My routine was every fall except every other if I had less 
than 100 hours on that year.


The filter gets changed much less.
Filter fun facts, filtering performance gets better as it gets dirty 
and the blackness of oil is unburned carbon too small to filter (not harmful).


When long distance cruising I used to save the used engine oil to use 
as the 10:1 oil ration for my Seagull outboard. It wore a diaper when 
loaded on the rail to keep the deck from dark stains. Livin' on the 
cheap, doncha know!


The main degradation factors of engine oils are heat & pressure 
followed by combustion products (blowby) & moisture. A properly sized 
diesel runs much higher loading than a gasoline transportation engine.

Thus the hierachy of engine oil can be stated as:
GOOD - gasoline engine rated oils
BETTER - diesel engine rated oils (higher detergent additives than gas rated)
BEST - 100% synthetic feedstock oils

So, Rotella Triple T is great for all of our applications. The main 
reason I run synthetics though is for heat tolerance. If you lose 
cooling capacity and don't notice right away then when "something 
smells HOT!" happens the synthetic oil may be the difference between 
an inconvenience and disaster.


Syn is not for all cases of course. Last winter a buddy was on a bike 
trip, 1200 CC air cooled,  to Mexico and wanted to "treat it right" 
by putting fresh synthetic in. I said, "No. No. Don't do that. 
Synthetic is too slippery for the wet clutch. Use something that has 
the JEMA rating, like Rotella Triple-T." He did a 15,000 km trip on 
that oil change with only putting in top-ups.  Not recommended at all 
but demonstrates the quality of regular rated diesel oil.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:36 AM 8/31/2019, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_716484_1681950774.1567272988188"
Content-Length: 1916

I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic 
oil in an old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its 
life.  The claim was that it would clean the engine too good and it 
would start leaking.

It's highly recommended for newer cars of course.
I would presume the same would be true for marine engines, unless 
the fact that they're diesels would make a difference???

Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true or not?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Yes, you certainly can ask.

For the record Wade, Shell Rotella is my "go to" oil. A wonderful 
choice for that engine. I even use Triple-T (non-synthetic) in the motorcyles.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet. mk-1


At 10:46 AM 8/30/2019, you wrote:
Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 
Yanmar 2GM?


Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III For Sale (New London, CT)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Brein,

We used to have fun on this list with things like this.

Check your Faceplant listing, About This Vehicle:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2649261335107049/

I sold my beloved 35 mk-1 last year and often 
think of getting rid of this old house too, 
retire, scour the east coast for another C  gem 
and go winter cruising in the Caribbean.


Cheers, Russ


At 07:53 PM 8/26/2019, you wrote:
Russ & Melody, LOL! I don't see where is says 
that but if it does it’s clearly an error. Brien Sent from my iPhone >



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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III For Sale (New London, CT)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Brien,

TAZ looks really good. Care to elaborate on the "automatic transmission"?

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:04 AM 8/21/2019, you wrote:
We have bought a new boat and have to let our 
TAZ go. I've only had her for a few years but 
she has been great to us. Below is the link to 
her Facebook ad. Please let anybody know that might be interested.Â


R/

Brien Sadler

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2649261335107049/
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Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Many years ago I had low voltage on alternator 
output and found it to be a bad diode in the 
rectifier... just one more thing to check.


Cheers, Russ


At 01:40 PM 8/9/2019, you wrote:

Hi All,Â
I have a yanmar 2GMf20 with what I believe is 
the stock 55 amp alternator.   I noticed that 
my ACR was not combining batteries, which led me 
to research a bit then measure the voltages on 
each bank, and then at the alternator “Batt” terminal. Â
Irrespective or RPM or battery state, the 
voltage at the BATT terminal does not exceed 
12.63 in operation.   (he ACR therefore 
doesn’t “see” a charging state)  The belt is new and not slipping.Â
This suggests and alternator or regulator 
problem.   Does this make sense?  Is there anything else I should check?
If I end up replacing the regulator, are there 
better options for this alternator than stock?


Thanks All.

Dave



Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: Stus-List Sardine in intake

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

We had many similar situations on a Desolation Sound cruise.

For us it started in Lund as we were leaving the 
dock and lost water flow, so shutdown and coasted 
back to the spot we just left.


After the third time I looked around more closely 
and notice the little fishes liked to hangout 
near the safety of the hull. For the rest of that 
cruise our strategy was to toss some crushed taco 
chips (they like Doritos) over the port side to 
attract them away from the intake. Then we would get underweigh ASAP.


Each time the fish found a different place to get 
stuck: thoughhull valve, strainer tee, mid-hose. 
At the next haulout I glued a strainer to the 
hull and never had another pluggage.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:03 AM 8/9/2019, you wrote:

David,Â
We sucked an apparently curious sardine 
headfirst into the intake while visiting 
Desolation Sound a few years back.  Discovered 
the issue much the same way you did by noticing 
increased steam in the exhaust. Idled in to an 
anchorage and starting at the pump worked 
backward to the intake, where  removing the 
intake hose I could see the small fish limply 
staring at me! Poked at him a little and most of 
him shot into the boat, and naturally a few 
gallons of saltwater before I could get the hose remounted. Problem solved!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA

On Friday, August 9, 2019, David Knecht via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Last week on a cruise, we ran the motor while at 
anchor to warm the water tank for 
showers.  When we started the engine the next 
morning, I noticed the sound of water from the 
exhaust seemed off and sure enough, a few 
minutes later the engine began to overheat.  We 
re-anchored and I went below to check the 
strainer basket which had a bit of grass in it, 
but not enough to plug it up.  My wife (bless 
her heart) dove in and saw a big clump of 
seaweek attached to the hull where the intake 
should be.  She managed to clear it and we got 
under way with no more trouble.  One lesson is 
to be careful of running the engine when the 
boat is at rest as I am sure you are much more 
likely to suck stuff into the intake as opposed 
to when the boat is moving at 6 knots (that has 
never happened to me).  But the experience got 
me thinking about how to resolve the problem of 
a plugged intake without swimming.  Is it 
possible to take the basket out of the water 
intake strainer and run something flexible and 
stiff down the tube and clear the intake without 
diving?  I am thinking of stiff wire or 
something like the fiberglass snake I use for 
running wires through small spaces. Anyone done this successfully? Â  Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[]


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Re: Stus-List Rendezvous roll call

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Lee,

Melody & I missed you the many years that you did 
not come to the rendezvous. The early years we met with you were brilliant.


But you might wish to revisit the stats on your 
"2012' blog entry. 845  mile trip?? Seattle at 
47.6N and Thetis at just below the "49" suggests 
you really really strayed. Or nice cruise.


Cheers, Russ
ex Sweet 35 mk-1





At 08:31 PM 8/8/2019, you wrote:

Hi Patrick & Kari,

Good for you!  I’m so jealous!
Sorry, Didn’t make it again this year!  Say ‘Hi” for us!
Last time was 
2012: 
http://www.leeyoungbloodphoto.com/2012sites/BC_RDV_Trip/start.html

We miss you all!

Argh, Lee
s/v Simplicity 1974 C 35-II


On Aug 8, 2019, at 7:11 00PM, Patrick Gateley 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi all,

My wife and I are attending our first 
Rendezvous! We'll be on Thetis Island around 
6p.  Anyone from the list attending?


Thanks,

Patrick and Kari Gateley
"Odessa" 1988 C 44
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Re: Stus-List Diesel engine fire-I chose a Halon ext for my engine

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I too think the Halon auto is the best choice but 
last time I tried, could not be purchased new in 
Canada due to damaging effects to ozone layer (or 
some other SJW concern). Older ones could still be refilled a few years ago.


The best non-residue solution is probably CO2 and 
the little port, as discussed.


I bought one of these little puppies:
http://www.elidefire.eu.com/
Figuring "what the hell" as a back-up it cannot 
hurt too much. Position it high & aft in the 
engine compartment. Looks like a slight residual powder may be left behind.


Don't discount the possibility of a diesel fire 
when there is pressurized fuel line(s) near high temperature exhaust surface.
Gargle "steam turbine oil fires" to see what a 
hot metal temperature and lube oil will do.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:39 PM 6/2/2019, you wrote:
I think Halon is nearly perfect for 
bilge/mechanical area.on the inert gas sinks 
like propane, and smothers any fire by denying 
it oxygen. It also doesn’t hurt the intake 
system on your most likely, running engine. I 
learned a lot from a previous rear engine auto 
engine compartment fire.  I proudly shot a 
powder type extinguisher on the running engine 
and got to rebuild the engine on my original 1960 Porsche 356.
If the Halon was released by the heat sensing 
valve, it will immediately stop your engine and 
shouldn’t effect the engine when 
restarted.  The inert gas is pulled to the spaces that are on fire.
 Obviously the Halon will not bode well for any 
oxygen breathing organisms so some airing out would be required.
I am not certain if they are readily available 
any more. I have had them on 3 different boats. 
I was told that unlike powdered systems, if they 
weigh the same as new, they are as good as new.


I think mine is a “Fireboy”. I think I will 
check to see if they are still available! 
Installation in the engine compartment is very simple.


Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA
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Re: Stus-List Prop for 35-2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

I suggest you don't do any improvements to the 
prop or shaft right now. Use her for a year and see how it performs.


Sure, the blade tip clearance looks too small 
(should be 15% of diameter) and the overhang 
looks enormous but why not wait & see?


Moving the strut back is no small deal and 
requires a new (longer) strut or an ugly hull buildup at mounting location.


Nice to have the 2.5:1 tranny. That could easily 
swing a 16 X 16 prop with the old Pathfinder 
diesel... given enough room of course. The 
Campbell Sailor is an excellent choice for a 
cruising boat and your size will be able to put 
something like 25 - 30 HP into the water if you need to.


For prop porn try:
http://www.kiwiprops.co.nz/cms/index.php

I chose one of these for Sweet in considering 
sailing performance AND tip clearance 
considerations. The tips are so far back on the 
hub that I could swing a 15 1/2" prop with the normal space abaft the strut.


Cheers, Russ

Hey! Why aren't you under the boat all dirty and 
grimy on this Saturday morning?





At 09:17 AM 5/4/2019, you wrote:
I'm posting this for reference, in case it is 
helpful to anyone. The prop on our new 35-2 is a 
Campbell Sailor 3 blade, marked 14 1/2 RH P16, 
on a 1" shaft. It is driven by a 40hp VW diesel, 
through a Hurth 100 2.5:1 transmission. The 
engine does not have a tach, but I plan on 
adding one so I can see how things compare with engine speed vs: boat speed.Â


While the shaft overhang is quite long at about 
12" beyond the cutlass bearing and strut, a 
surveyor looked at it and said he'd seen quite a 
few done this way, and didn't feel it was an 
issue, and the shaft was true. Of course, if I 
snag a line, I am more likely to bend something, 
so I will exercise care. My only options to 
reduce the overhang are moving to a long strut 
closer to the prop, or installing a smaller prop 
and shortening the shaft. I'm at a 16 pitch now, 
so I don't know if a smaller prop with a steeper 
pitch will work. I'll investigate that if the 
current setup starts to cause issues.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Black goo in keel joint - 35-2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

Since you're hauled out for two weeks, why not do 
the keel joint properly? It will mean using an 
amount of epoxy to warrant purchasing a 2 litre 
pack, some fibre & tape. Leftovers go into 
general storage for cruising projects/repairs.


Remember: cruising is simply the act of 
travelling to some other place to work on your boat. :)


Try a solvent wash on the black goo. If it 
dissolves with a bit of exposure to solvent or 
gasoline then it's probably butyl sealant.


For local epoxy & great customer service I have 
been using Fiber Tek products for bulk epoxy.

https://www.fibertek.ca/product-category/fiberglass-materials/epoxy-resins/aqua-set/

Years ago my fave was Industial Formulatiors but 
they were bought up by Systems Three many years 
ago. The Cold Cure formulation is still the best wet cure repair epoxy, IMHO.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

=
Next is a set of instruction from Dennis, provided many year ago.
One thing to add, if you expose fresh lead while 
sanding/grinding it needs an epoxy primer coat 
right away as oxidation starts immediately.
My routine was: at the end of the day I would mix 
a small batch of epoxy and freshly sand any 
exposed lead while the little woman would come 
follow right after and brush on the neat epoxy.


From Dennis:
  Here's the revised, completed reply.

The pics on the photoalbum are of my 35-1, 
Touche'.  I repaired the smile when I bought the 
boat in 1999.  Here's the words to go with the pics.
   * Tighten the keelbolts.  If you don't 
properly torque the bolts, any attempts to fix 
the smile may fail. The torque specs are on the 
photoalbum site under the "Technical Info" 
button.  Keelbolts should be backed off then 
torque dry (without lubrication) to the proper spec.
   * Dig out and loose crumbly keel material at 
the hull/keel joint back to solid material.
   * Preparation is critical.  Rough up the 
fiberglass and make sure all dust and loose particles are removed.
   * Fill the area with thickened epoxy.  You 
can use epoxy thickened with microfibers if the 
gap is fairly narrow (1/4 inch or less).  If the 
gap is wider, I would use epoxy thickened with 
chopped fiber or "kitty hair".  I used chopped 
carbon fiber (whoohoo! high tech!)  If the gap is 
wide, fill in a few layers rather than one large fill.

   * After curing, fair out the repair.
   * I covered the entire hull keel joint with a 
strip of 4 inch biaxial tape and epoxy.
   * I then covered the first layer of tape with 
2 overlapping strips of biaxial tape and 
epoxy.  Probably overkiil if the bolts are properly torqued.

   * Fair out the repair.

This repair has held for 12 years.  I have had a 
fairly hard grounding or two with no noticeable effects.


I am familiar with G-Flex having used it to 
re-attach the floor in an inflatable dinghy 
(worked fairly well).  As this repair involves a 
joint that is under significant compression, I 
think I would want a material that was rigid and did not compress.


Now for the caveats.  This assumes that your 
hull, keel stub, keelbolts, washers, spacers and 
keel top are all in good condition.


If the washers and/or spacers under your keelbolt 
nuts are not stainless, change them now.


A chronic leak could have deteriorated the 
keelbolts.  A friend of mine with a Tartan 33 had 
a chronic leak at the hull/keel joint.  When the 
yard dropped his keel, a few of his keelbolts 
were deteriorated.  The keel was shipped to Mars Metals for bolt replacement.


Problems with the integrity and construction of 
the keel stub have been reports for some 
boats.  I'll let other listers describe these issues.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
=

At 09:03 AM 5/4/2019, you wrote:
Thanks for the info. The fellow I spoke with 
owns a Landfall 42, and suggested for the small 
amount I will need, they should have some at the 
club that I can use, rather than buying a whole 
tin. I will see if it is G-Flex that they have.


Although I will need to haul again next year for 
a new survey, I'd prefer to do this job right 
this time, and not have to dig into it again. 
I'm also planning to check the keel bolt torque. 
Should I do this before applying epoxy? The 
joint seems very tight, with no sign of a smile 
- just a bit of lead corrosion at the leading 
edge. I suppose I could take some of the weight 
off the keel with the stands to see if it opens 
up, but I doubt it will based on the tight sealant I pulled out.


On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:20 PM Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have not heard of anyone using Sikaflex.  I 
would recommend G-Flex and follow the prescription in the link below.

Re: Stus-List Mast conduit plastic cover, C 35 Mark 3

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Be careful with going too large on the wiring 
conduit. If the wiring can move too much you will 
get this really annoying slapping sound when the 
mast moves around a bit, in an otherwise peaceful anchorage.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:54 AM 5/3/2019, you wrote:
Most masts have a wiring conduit riveted to the 
leading edge.  When I had the mast rebuilt last 
year the yard found black polybutyl.  They 
stated that the polybutyl was a weak-ish 
solution that could pull out of the rivets and 
recommended replacing it with pvc.  They 
fashioned regular pieces of plumbing white pvc 
and glued unions to create the appropriate length.


Due to the added wires they ended up having to 
add an additional partial length conduit for the radar wires.


I would go with the max diameter that will fit 
between the leading edge of the mast and the spreader ribs.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ



On Fri, May 3, 2019, 7:47 AM Elizabeth McDonald 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Not sure if all the masts on the 1986 C 
35’s, have a plastic insert.  This plastic 
cover covers the conduit wiring, which runs most 
of the length on the leading edge of the 
mast.  The plastic cover has deteriorated over 
time and is in need of replacement. Â Any owners 
who  have had this replacement issue, I would appreciate your input.


Liz McDonaldÂ
S/V Autumn Sky
C 35 Mark 3
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Re: Stus-List Knot meter - worth replacing?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

Is the paddle with the magnet still there? It 
will show as a little block on one paddle.


If you're lucky with it being there then just 
build up the broken paddle with epoxy putty to 
the same general profile as the other blades. 
Close is good enough for the resolution a 
cruising boat needs. It's not like you're going 
to be using the info for constant fine trimming 
as we might do when racing. Even then a good job on it will be fine.


Cheers, Russ

At 08:30 PM 4/30/2019, you wrote:
The 35-2 has an original (I think) B knot 
meter, but the paddle wheel has one paddle 
broken off from a lifting strap. Apparently this 
old sender is no longer available. Is it worth 
getting a replacement knot meter to get speed 
over water? The boat also comes with a B H1000 
windex and several extra display units. Possibly 
I could find a knot meter sending unit to work with these?Â


Or should I knot bother and just settle for GPS speed?Â

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Re-Patriating Canadian born C’s

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

When I brought Sweet into Canada from the Seattle 
area there was GST @ 7% to pay but no import duty.


The GST is applicable to almost everything once a 
person's little exemption limit is reached.


The import duty was waived due to NAFTA being in 
place and that year (2003) the C head office was in the USA.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1



At 10:14 AM 4/14/2019, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_154E_01D4F2C4.06F3F4B0"
Content-language: en-us

It seems I remember some discussion years ago 
about the Tax consequences of a C being 
reduced when a Canadian Made  C was returned from USA to Canada,
Does anyone know if the GST or whatever the 
taxes there are affected or reduced?



Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

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Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Shawn, Buddy, Bro.

You need to stop obsessing about this boat.

Looking at boats for less than 20,000 and 
expecting 50,000 dollar results. Give it up.


This toe rail thing is a non-issue. Sweet had a 
discontinuous toe rail from the factory. There is 
a joint just abaft the shrouds. The toe rail does 
nothing for hull integrity. It is there for 
hull/deck bolting and a nice place to hang gear 
from. If you let the puddles sit long enough to 
go green in the winter it simply means you don't 
love your boat enough. This fix is easy enough 
with Devcon, some aluminum flatbar and a bit of black paint, if you wish.


The prop shaft overhang is ridiculous (as best 
described previuosly), so cut it down to a 
reasonable length for a few hundred bucks or use 
it until repairs are needed and then deal with it.


As a friend I suggest you start seriously looking 
at a much smaller boat and move up in size a bit later.


Kindest regards, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1


At 06:45 PM 4/13/2019, you wrote:
Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on 
the deck. I will have to inspect the photo I 
took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would 
sooner cut a notch in the glass below the toe 
rail, then epoxy it smooth both inside and 
outside to allow water to drain under the rail. 
I've seen some boats where this is part of the 
deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds 
reasonable, except it will become a green slimy 
worm after a while if not cleaned... :)


On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the 
Toe Rail extrusion as two different toe rails 
are used.  The two different Toe Rails are 
identical except the forward section has twice 
as many of the holes in the side per foot to 
clip snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't 
what you're seeing is it?  It seems to me on my 
friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that 
nicks the deck and the hull deck joint edge, 
almost like they cut the Toe Rail on the boat wile assembling it.


Have another look.

Ken H.

On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something 
quite alarming: it appears that in an effort to 
allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to 
cut a small section of the toerail out, about 
1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or recip. saw. I 
could see where the saw blade nicked the deck 
slightly below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.Â


While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and 
quite a difficult hack to reverse (I think the 
toerails are continuous), it also got me 
wondering how others have solved this problem. 
In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was 
the reason for this ugly hack job. I suppose one 
could hide it by attaching a short section of 
toe rail or similar material on top of the cut, 
while still allowing water to drain.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Prop shaft support on 35-2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

I had about 4" over hang between the cutlass bearing and the prop hub 
on the 35-1. It was necessary to move the prop aft and get hull 
clearance when repowering and going to a larger prop. No sense in 
putting in a large engine if you can't put that horsepower into the 
water effectively.


I was able to do it because I went from a 7/8" shaft to a 1 1/8" diameter.

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk1




At 09:03 PM 4/11/2019, you wrote:
I just noticed what appears to be a fairly long extension of the 
prop shaft beyond the support on the 35-2 pictured here:


http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=168876=1524980874

It looks like there is at least 12" of shaft beyond the support 
before the prop, and bit less between the hull and the support. I 
recall reading a survey on a boat I was considering where the 
surveyor commented on excessive prop shaft extension as a possible 
cause of vibration. As this boat has a VW diesel (not sure of the 
transmission), I am wondered if the shaft might be too long.


How does this compare with other 35s?

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot tiller arm on LF38 *without* bolting

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Patrick,

Interesting problem here. Thinking a little 
outside the box... okay, maybe more than a little.


Anyone given thought to using the autopilot drive 
to drive the cable instead of the tiller arm? 
Zero mods required to the existing quadrant assembly.


2 of these in opposition connected by S/S 
plate(s), which the drive is bolted to, might be 
feasible if the drive output is less than a ton.

https://www.amazon.ca/Blesiya-Steel-Tensioning-Pulling-25-70/dp/B07JYCVGQB?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q=duc12-20=xm2=2025=165953=B07JYCVGQB

Or a number of these in series all bolted to a plate may work also
https://www.amazon.ca/Amanaote-Stainless-Steel-Standard-Double/dp/B00PVSPUUG?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q=duc12-20=xm2=2025=165953=B00PVSPUUG

A pessimist would say that the autopilot will 
becomes useless if the cable system breaks.


And the optimist would counter, "Why would you 
build a system which you expect to fail?"


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 04:21 PM 3/5/2019, you wrote:

Hi Paul,Â
Thanks for the ideas, lots of good ones!

> you wrote > * Edson sells a different radial 
drive which has a shorter height.  Replacing 
an existing with one of these would be costly 
but it could free up shaft space for the tiller 
arm.  One needs to check the specs for the 
shorter radials and see if that option is feasible.  Â


This is one idea Edson engineering suggested to 
me today actually!  Alden got back to me (after 
speaking with engineering) and has been very 
helpful. It would be a good deal of work 
swapping out the radial, and there are some 
subtle impacts to consider (I can't change the 
wire track height too much because if it causes 
steering cable chafe that will require shimming 
the idlers/sheaves). It also might require extending the rudder stop post.Â


Flipping the existing offset-disc radial upside 
down doesn't help because it would still consume 
the same amount of rudder shaft space (nearly 
all of it, leaving no room for a standard tiller arm).Â


Edson's other idea was to move the existing 
radial down by 1.75", bringing the concave 
portion of the disc closer to the rudder stock 
tube and freeing up enough space for the 1 5/8" 
tiller arm above the radial. This definitely 
requires idler/sheave modification though and 
rudder stop modification. In addition it's a 
very tight fit to the point where it might not 
work (1/8" clearance on cockpit floor and aft stern bulkhead).Â


Your 3rd idea is quite interesting, no one has 
thought of reusing the radial drive hub 
thrubolts. The hub is contoured and has a ridge, 
so it would have to be quite a custom part to get a good fit.Â


I've ruled out option B from my original email 
(Jefa quadrant with integrated tiller arm) 
because it turns out it too would require 
idler/sheave adjustments in addition to a custom 
rudder stop - basically complete steering system redesign.


I'm focusing on option A now, which was to have 
a machine shop make an "offset tiller arm" or 
"drop" tiller arm. I discovered the term "offset 
tiller arm" when I found Buck Algonquin makes 
them (but not in the right size for our boat, 
and they're bronze castings so they can't do a 
custom one - they do 1000+ unit production runs). Â

https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/89112-89000-series-offset-tiller-arm

But having a machine shop make my own offset 
tiller arm seems doable, as long as I can find a 
machine shop willing to do it.Â


-Patrick
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Re: Stus-List Rib for Sale?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Try these guys. It's usually good stuff.

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-USDA-Choice-Beef-Rib-Standing-Rib-Bone-In.product.100474186.html

:)

Cheers, Russ



At 11:18 AM 3/1/2019, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_DM6PR16MB2922CC5ED33E48DB15E097C9DA760DM6PR16MB2922namp_"

Anyone selling a RIB?

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


[]
 Virus-free. 
www.avast.com 


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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I've always wondered why there is an insistence amongst some East 
Coast members to retorque keel-bolts on the hard.


On the Left Coast the boats are out of the water for only a day or 
three and it seems too valuable to do something as mundane as 
resetting keel nuts!


check the chart:
https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/torque_vs_tension_bolts_13355.htm
one bolt will hold at least three or more keels to the bottom.

Has there been bad experience torgue'ng keelbolts while floating?

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 11:00 AM 2/7/2019, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="_000_26b9b433ef9c44e2a3bbced895c96553NSCDAG306baadssagov_"

Even more so when you loosen them!


You asked if there was anything you were missing.  A critical step 
is to be on the hard when you torque the bolts.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dan,

Only ease the backstay a little bit. The normal shroud tension is okay.

Cheers, Russ


At 05:40 AM 1/30/2019, you wrote:
Actually, this is only the backing plate in the photo. At a second 
glance that last bolt and the plate itself does look rusty. The 
chainplate is on the other side and I won't know how it looks until 
I've removed it. I'll be sure to check it over thoroughly and 
replace if necessary. I'm not too woried if the backing plate has 
pits or cracks - it won't be under the same stresses as the chainplate itself.


I do have one big question - If I want to remove the headstay at 
dock like this, can I just secure it down to the toe rail with lines 
then remove the attachments? Should I be letting off all of the 
stays to do this?


Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system rebuild - update 1

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I had hull #111, 1972 and the rudder log support 
arrangement is just like that shown for Touch


é

including the three short plywood exposed gussets and grey paint.  :)

Okay, I changed the water-pump grease cup to an 
industrial style spring loaded unit for auto feed.


The "Red & White" aft cockpit scupper valves are 
evil, in my humble consideration (photo 
DSCF0042.jpg). The valve stem will d'zinc-ti-fy 
in salt water and break when you try to close it. 
To check it, take the valve apart and see if the 
valve stem is showing pink. Pink is bad in this case.


I had good intentions to equip Sweet with a 
rudder stop configuration but never got around to 
it ( 'round tuit ). Part of the justification on 
procrastination was recognizing the only two 
times you need rudder stop on these boats is being hove-to or backing down.


So I became very vigilant for the helmsman to 
hold firm, okay a nag, if the Admiral was backing 
down and we also sailed instead of heaving-to... 
entirely practical for our area.


At one time I thought about putting nylon 
pendants from 'rib structure" to each side of 
quadrant to limit movement but never got around to verifying if practical.


Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1


At 12:14 PM 1/29/2019, you wrote:


My hull number, in the photos, is #202, July '73.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/29/2019 1:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Yep.  I wonder what hull number they made the 
design change?  touche' is #83.


Dennis C.

On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 10:54 AM schiller via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Dennis,

Looks very similar to what was on Corsair, Hull #7.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sTBZGtbZlym6_0Iw0S5DZOiWYHahCVI7

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028. "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 1/29/2019 9:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

The original post is below.

My buddy has the pedestal and associated parts 
for stripping and painting with 
AwlGrip.  Aircraft stripper does indeed 
remove powder coat.  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OgW3dWk9fqRkoQwowu_fwg5fGehKcd_g


A local rigging shop is duplicating the wire 
rope cable for me.  The fitting on the end of 
the cable that attaches to the chain is 
apparently called a chain eye as opposed to a marine eye or aircraft eye.


There seems to be a major change in the rudder 
stop design.  Touche' is Hull 83.


Thanks to Russ, I have a good example of what 
a rudder stop should look like.  Note the 
strong vertical structural member with 
gussets.  The two plates mounted to the 
bottom of the quadrant stop against aluminum 
plates with rubber cushions on either side of the vertical structural member.


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_9BPN1H7YXs586x93QLT8saZVIKJxDSr

Unfortunately, Touche' only has a thin gusset for the rudder tube:Â Â

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jaJX92DAx9vOgV2TWk-fchKrc3k3Zj2h

One other difference is that Touche's quadrant 
is installed upside down from the one on Russ' 
boat.  Go figure.  That doesn't seem to be a 
big deal.  The plates will just have to be mounted on the top of the quadrant.


I am going to have to install a vertical 
structural member.  Still finalizing the 
design but it will be similar to Russ' 
boat.  Going to be very uncomfortable working in there. Â


I'm thinking about bonding 3 pieces of marine 
ply together with the middle piece shorter so 
the thing slips down over the existing rudder 
post gusset.  I can then through bolt it in 
place and then tab it to the hull.  I will 
probably also make it with the athwartships 
gussets in place so all I need do is tab them 
to the hull.  The gussets are extremely 
important due to the side loading of the 
stops.  The more I do outside the space the easier it will be.


I won't start the job until March after I 
return from skiing.  I'll document the process and provide a link.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I will guess that the sprocket damage is as you 
surmise, chain stop bolt riding past the limit. 
Notice chain link gouge in port side housing too 
when it rode up on the sprocket. I expect it was 
an single event while backing down and the person 
lost control of the wheel. There is enough 
momentum there to put the wheel hard over in a second and cause the damage.


Your intuition is "bang on", reassemble without 
removing the sprocket. Trying to get that 
sprocket off the axle is flirting with disaster. 
Reassemble exactly as before, as the damaged 
teeth are not in the normally loaded area anyhow.


Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1





At 12:50 PM 1/23/2019, you wrote:
Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system 
yesterday for a lng overdue maintenance 
session.  As in it's never been done in 47 
years!  Touche's steering system is by Morch.


If you haven't checked your steering system, 
maybe this will inspire you to do so.


Concern 2.  Some of the teeth on the chain 
sprocket were damaged.  This was a complete surprise.
   * This was apparently caused by the way 
C/Morch made stops to limit the travel of the 
rudder.  They put a bolt at each end of the 
chain. The bolts must have caused the damage when the wheel reached its limit.
   * Note the two bolts with washers and nuts 
through the links of the chain 
here:Â 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf


Next steps. Â
   * The sprocket.  H.  The chain makes a 
full 180 degree wrap over the sprocket.  I 
believe there are plenty of undamaged teeth 
that will work.  On the other hand, I could 
try to get the sprocket off the shaft and have 
a machine shop make a new one.  I think that 
would be a risky option.  First, I'm not sure 
how I would remove the sprocket.  It has set 
screws 
(https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi). 
I removed a small one on the sprocket and a 
larger one on a collar adjacent to it.  I 
suspect there is a keyway on the sprocket.  It 
showed no signs of moving.  There are some 
inventive ways to try to pull the shaft but 
again, they all have risk.  Then there's the 
issue of the bearings.  If I muck up the bearings, I'm screwed. Â
   * Give some thought to a better way to stop 
the wheel at the travel limits.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Prop Pitch for Universal 35

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

I had a similar situation with my old cruising 
cutter with a Gori folding prop. At expected RPM 
the cruising speed was ugly and the engine 
chugged along like there was no load. Even worse, 
in a marina I learn to go full speed in reverse just to get a wee bite.


In my investigation I found the prop's 18 x 12 
expected performance was suitable for a 2:1 
transmission. The installed tranny was a 3:1, 
which is great for efficiency and performance but 
only if the prop is sized right. I think it was 
mistake when ordered (like 10 years earlier) but that is a whole 'nother story.


Do you know what degree pitch the current setting 
is? I have a vague recollection a Max prop should 
be around 14 degree for a 2:1 gearbox and hull 
speed in the 6.5 - 7 knot range.  But don't quote 
me.. the last one I set up was maybe 4 years ago.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet , 35 mk-1


At 09:15 AM 1/20/2019, you wrote:
I have a MaxProp classic, and a Universal 35 on 
Daydream.  The prop pitch appears very shallow, 
and when motoring, seems to be slow. (from 
memory of last September, 4.5 knots@ 2300rpms)


Any 37+ owners have this combination of prop and 
engine, and happen to know the correct pitch for the MaxProp prop?


And cheers from the Michigan Fridge...-12 in the UP this morning!!


Chuck Saur

(517)-490-5926
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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

I used OpenCPN and Nobeltec quite a fews ago on the West Coast cruise.

Main charts were NDI (digital ocean) and Nobeltec vr4. I did say old.
I also had C-map 93, more for entertainment and back-up. Ran them on 
two XP machines, a Dell & ThinkPad.


There is an OpenCPN chart download here:

http://opennauticalchart.org/

Mostly for entertainment as not all the marks in our area as show... 
nothing in Sooke Harbour and missing a key one in Nanaimo Harbour.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:56 PM 1/19/2019, you wrote:
I'm trying out OpenCPN on my laptop and Android tablet, but can't 
find a source for Canadian charts. Has anyone had luck using OpenCPN 
in Canadian waters (west coast)?


For this asking about using Android tablets offline for navigation, 
I have had no issues travelling with several Android phones and 
tablets in many countries (Japan, Central America, US and Canada) 
without cell or wifi service, either by downloading Google offline 
maps in advance, or using another offline map app. The app contains 
the offline map/chart data, and the phone/tablet merely need to 
obtain a GPS fix, which does not require either cellular data or wifi.
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

Just for fun I dug out an old textbook and 
estimate that a 1 1/4" through-hull opening about 
3' and a bit below the waterline will allow 100-120 gpm into the boat.


The Rule 1200 gph hour is probably a lot less 
after discharge head and hoses losses are calculated into it.


If anyone is really worried about emergency pump 
I suggest a nice little gas powered pump. Of 
course it probably will refuse to start when you need it! :)


Cheers, Russ



At 12:23 PM 1/15/2019, you wrote:



I'm preferential to a float type auto switch 
wired in parallel with the manual switch.  My 
auto float switch is mounted above the pump and 
only turns on when a considerable amount of 
water accumulates.  Under normal conditions I 
manually pump the bilge down and the float just 
catches it when I've abandoned the boat for weeks on end.


I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a 
perfect I world have a very high capacity 
"emergency" pump and associated auto float 
mounted just above the float for the lower 
"normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not 
have a check valve.  It would have a high loop 
to avoid a siphon but nothing to prevent 
backflow.  It would also be as short and 
straight of a run as possible to the 
discharge.  In this way I could ensure the 
emergency reliability and capacity of an 
emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and 
rarely using it.  I would retain the normal 
bilge pump's ability to pump the bilge to its 
lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically and manually.


The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5 
gallon buckets per minute - more flow than I can 
move manually but not much.  Once, I 
accidentally left the transducer plugs out when 
launching the boat.  We discovered the 
situation before water got to the floor boards 
but not before a considerable amount of water 
had made it in.  Once the situation was 
corrected the bilge pump continued to run for 
what seemed like the better part of 5 
minutes.  The point being, 1200gph sounds 
big... It isn't.  If I had a shaft seal that 
failed, the pump almost certainly would not have 
kept up and that is the least catastrophic emergency I can think of.


Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ




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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Washers

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

316L S/S is better than 316 for welding 
applications. The L (low carbon) helps prevent 
rust stains at the weld interface.


304 and even duplex S/S (2205, sometimes called 
18-8) will be fine for keelbolt washers if it is all that is available.


Cheers, Russ


At 08:09 AM 1/15/2019, you wrote:

Dan,Â

Mine came with SS washers.  You can most likely 
find them on McMaster-Carr or just make them out 
of SS sheet.  If I was making them I'd just cut 
them square.  You'll probably want no less than 
3/32".  There is nothing wrong with anything 
thicker.  You’ll find cutting SS is a 
challenge.  A machine shop can make these quick 
and easy.  When sourcing SS look for at least 316.  316L is even better.


You can make a backing plate with G-10 or FRP 
(also available on McMaster Carr).  I would use 
at least 1/4" and probably opt for 1/2".


It is quite frequent for owners to find that the 
"foundation" is not flat or square to the 
stud.  You can fix this by bedding the backing 
plates with thickened epoxy (Six10).  It is 
short sighted to allow the epoxy to bond the 
keel bolt in place.  Prevent this by using a 
FRP tube cut to act as a protective 
sleeve.  The sleeve should slide loose on the 
stud and tightly in the FPR backing 
plate.  Tighten the nut only enough to smoosh 
the leveling agent (thickened epoxy) out a 
little.  Let the epoxy cure and then torque the bolts as appropriate.


https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers

https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass-hollow-rods

https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ



On Tue, Jan 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Dan via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi All, I know  this has been discussed many 
times here but this is a quick and simple one.


I'm going to be torquing my keel bolts this 
spring and I've noticed that the washers/spacers 
under some of the nuts are coroding and need to 
be replaced. I'd like to change them out for Stainless Steel.


What do you guys have for keel bolt 
washers/spacers and how did you get them made?


Thanks!

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS
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--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

Thanks for the update on Calisto. I almost went 
down to Esquimalt for a look, but better sense got ahold of me.


You see, I sold my beloved 35 mk-1, Sweet, last 
summer because of a cruising boat project sitting 
in my yard. It is no good owning 2 boats. I have done that three times now.
And I have a '83 Westy with the original 1.9 lt 
waterboxer engine @ 400,000 km that I need to 
pull apart for a look some time (before it gives me trouble).


I guess last summer you couldn't give a boat 
away. I let Sweet go for $22k and she was in 
sail-away condition with a perfect Storch Sails 
tri-radial main, furling, refrig, diesel w 
feathering prop, leather upholstery and looked great.
A 30 mk-1 at my Club in perfect condition went 
for $10k. The old guy hardly ever sailed the 
boat, maybe twice a year, but spent hours each 
weekend puttering around on things like varnish and trinkets.


There is another 30 mk-1 at the Club that was for 
sale last year that I can ask about the next time 
I'm there. I know of a Peterson 39 but it is a little more than $30k.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1

P.S. the cruising boat in the yard is a William 
Atkins design, Margery Daw. It is worlds away from a C design.


At 09:12 AM 1/10/2019, you wrote:
Yes, I am trying to focus on the boat first, 
starting with a solid hull/deck/rig and a sound 
design. So far, I have yet to come across a boat 
with all of these factors - they are usually 
deficient in one or more areas, with sails being 
the most common. The last two boats I looked at 
were mainly motored, so sails were original and 
they had no furlers. In fact, nearly all the 
boats I've seen had original or at least 20+ 
year old sails. The C 37 had a brand new 
racing main and about 8 other sails, but the 
boat was a mess. Around here, winds are very 
light and fickle in the summer, when most people 
cruise, so many boats are mainly motored unless 
they venture beyond the inside passage.


It's a shame the C 26 isn't a bit stiffer, as 
it was the first boat I looked at in July, in 
really nice conditon, and I could have got it 
for $8K and been sailing already. But it had a 
wheel, and was really tight in the cockpit as a 
result, and the idea of a very tender boat 
doesn't thrill me after sailing a friend's MacGregor.Â


I don't want luxury (we've camped as a family of 
4 in a Westfalia for 20 years), but we will need 
space for 2 adults to be comfortable inside on 
rainy days, and to also sail/motor in rough 
conditions in reasonable comfort. Anything 27'+ 
has what we need usually, so it's just a matter 
of getting a solid boat with decent engine, 
sails and no major flaws that I can't fix easily 
fix. I am prepared to put in the work if the 
price is right; in fact I would prefer it, as I 
have lots of time, being retired. I am not 
afraid of engine work, so a rebuild doesn't 
scare me, but the price would have to reflect the amount of work needed.


Thanks for all the tips!
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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

Are you on the West Coast?

Cheers, Russ

At 04:47 PM 1/4/2019, you wrote:
I like the MKII and I love C as much as any 
on this list, but he's not going to get 30k for 
that boat. I wouldn't pay 20k for that boat based on that ad.Â
It's listed since the summer and it's not sold, 
it's now winter. Private seller? How many times 
do you think he wants to show that boat?Â


"Contact me for more details and photos." - <-- 
that right there is a non-starter for me.Â


He thinks he's going to save time answering the 
same inquiries over and over again? Not likely. 
He's waiting for a buyer that doesn't know what 
questions to ask. That ad is missing a tonne of 
detail and to me, that's a clear indication of a 
time waster. I think people sell boats privately 
because they don't like the things they hear 
from brokers, namely, the market price of their 45 year old boat.Â


My opinion is worth what you paid for it and no 
offence intended for anyone on this list. I've 
been around this block a couple of times now, on both ends.Â


Look at broker boats, if you haven't already. I 
would forego the luxuries entirely with your 
budget and focus on an updated motor, rigging, a 
dry deck and solid mast step. If you can get a 
35 mkII with the above and no other "frills", I 
would call that a good deal at 25k. Solar, 
batteries and cruising niceties can be added as 
you go, and then you get new stuff, that you 
know how to maintain. The boat in the ad is a 
project boat. If it weren't, he'd be bragging 
about all the hoses he replaced and how new the 
 the? See my point? 45 year old rod rigging 
on salt water? Marinized VW in a C? That's a 
replacement motor, last I checked C wasn't 
putting VWs in their boats. This owner didn't 
put in a Beta, or a Yanmar - he put in a used, 
marinized VW. He doesn't want to pay commission. 
Too many warning signs for my tastes.Â


But it's got a water maker! never mind that noise

I like the MKII. I hope you find one, and that it serves you well.
Fair winds.Â
Steve


On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 2:39 PM Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Russ,

Thanks for the reply. It has been listed since 
the summer, and he seems to be dropping the 
price; I know he is motivated, but it's still a 
bit beyond my budget, and moorage will cost a 
bit more than the 30' boats I've been looking at.


I'm very familiar with VW diesels, currently own 
two, and have had many since the 80s. Not sure 
how access is since the engine is larger than 
the A4, and economy is probably not as good as a 
2-3 cyl Yanmar, although tuning the IP might 
help. Just don't see many marine VWs so not sure 
how they fare in this application - the blocks 
are bulletproof, but not sure about the marine 
components, manifold/exchanger, raw water pump 
etc. Sounds like it may be a custom job also, so 
if parts are non-standard that could be an issue.Â


I'll probably arrange to see it, and report 
back. I'm just trying to get the most solid boat 
I can for about $20-25k CAD, so boats that don't 
have what I need/want (cockpit enclosure for 
winter is one), or have a bunch of stuff I don't 
need, will mean that I must pay more, or allow 
for additional costs to add things.Â




On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:18 AM Russ & Melody 
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Shawn,

The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.

Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising 
with solar panels, water maker and Solent jib. 
The Solent jib is a good choice for short-handed 
cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it 
can't be moved aft (not practical with the 
furler on it). The dodger is okay and most 
coastal cruiser like them. I don't as a personal 
preference (mostly 'cause they're ugly and 
impair good visibility while sailing.


No stability issues with any of that, or the big 
honking anchor on the bow. And you will sleep well in a blow. :)


The older marinized VW diesels are known for 
cracked head issues but since it is only 
operating at 50% load at max (check the prop 
size) it likely doesn't get hot enough to suffer 
at the head, but continuos running at low load 
can lead to carbon buildups (sticky rings & valve problems).


For a well found cruiser that appears ready to 
go I think $30 grand is a bargain.


        Cheers, Russ
        ex- Sweet, 35 mk-1






At 08:27 AM 1/4/2019, you wrote:

Hello,

I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several 
modifications, and I am curious about how they 
might affect the boat in terms of suitability 
for coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a 
trip around Vancouver Island. Perhaps some here 
are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:


Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
Watermaker
Aluminum framed dodger (not the most

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.

Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising with solar panels, 
water maker and Solent jib. The Solent jib is a good choice for 
short-handed cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it can't be 
moved aft (not practical with the furler on it). The dodger is okay 
and most coastal cruiser like them. I don't as a personal preference 
(mostly 'cause they're ugly and impair good visibility while sailing.


No stability issues with any of that, or the big honking anchor on 
the bow. And you will sleep well in a blow. :)


The older marinized VW diesels are known for cracked head issues but 
since it is only operating at 50% load at max (check the prop size) 
it likely doesn't get hot enough to suffer at the head, but continuos 
running at low load can lead to carbon buildups (sticky rings & valve 
problems).


For a well found cruiser that appears ready to go I think $30 grand 
is a bargain.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1






At 08:27 AM 1/4/2019, you wrote:

Hello,

I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am 
curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability 
for coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver 
Island. Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:


Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
Watermaker
Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).

The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178

Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.

Thanks

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List yanmar 2gmf in 29-2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bev,

I had a leak at the bleed screw gasket on a filter top. Being the 
filter between lift pump & injector pump.


I verified the location by putting little wraps of paper towel around 
the system connections. The leak quickly discolours the paper towel, 
even before you can smell it.


Cheers, Russ
ex - 35 mk-1

At 12:34 PM 12/26/2018, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_2793283_850607002.1545856449296"
Content-Length: 797

I knew I had a fuel leak. Thought it was the lift pump so replaced 
it. Still the problem persists somewhere. Is there an obvious place 
to start looking?

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Re: Stus-List Heavy storms on the West Coast

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Marek,

Thanks for your concern. And Merry Christmas to all, a turkey is 
roasting as I write.


A wee Nanaimo update:
check out this power outage map:
https://www.bchydro.com/power-outages/app/outage-map.html
(click on the red dots at the bottom of Vancouver Island to zoom in)

There are still many islands and areas without power. Comparing this 
map to the day of the storm, on the day it was much more red than 
clear. Only the old part of town had power.  It is amazing that so 
much power has been restored. We drove to Victoria the day after the 
storm and there were no traffic lights for 70 kms. The normally 1 1/2 
drive took 2 1/2 hours.


Our yacht club, NYC (Nanaimo Yacht Club) came away with relatively 
little damage even though there were high tides increased a bit by 
the storm.  Many houses suffered from fallen tree damage. It was a 
horrible time to be ashore eh. :)


Predictably the main stream media used the event to push global 
warming agenda like a Southern Baptist preacher casting accusations of sin.
So I got to thinking, "but it's an El Nino year." I first learned 
about El Nino at the Galapagos Islands in 1983, talking with the Port 
Captain about the odd weather pattern (not at all like the Pilot 
charts).  He simply said it was El Nino, about every 7 years.


1983 to present is 35 years or roughly 5 El Nino cycles. So that part 
fits. The last El Nino produced a storm during Southern Straits Race 
that topped 55 knot winds. A bit rough alright, the skipper cancelled 
our participation so we storm-watched from Parksville beach motel.


So this area gets severe storms, yup. The book, Keepers of the Lights 
includes a story of a cow getting blown off Triangle Island in a 
winter storm. Obviously not a foredeck cow, they have a good grip.. 
probably a grinder. :)


I think the extraordinary tree damage is prevalent due to at least a 
few factors, heavy rain the past two weeks saturates the dirt making 
it very soft, the forest is now mature second growth so the trees are 
twice as big as they were 35 years ago (more inclined to fall over) 
and there are simply more people on the east coast of Vancouver 
Island so the chances of a tree actually hitting something important 
is much higher.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1











At 09:07 PM 12/21/2018, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_SN6PR11MB2941FD655B5CC4F97F14F4B0CEB90SN6PR11MB2941namp_"

There were some severe storms reported on the West Coast (around 
Vancouver/Seattle). Not hurricanes, but sustained winds in the 60+ 
kt. The worst hit (at least in Canada) was Nanaimo and there was 
also heavy damage in White Rock, BC. The national news was showing a 
pier destroyed by the storm - several sailboats broke off their 
moorings and banged against the pier until it broke (not a pretty 
picture). Also, a number of boats ended on the beach, one of them 
looking very much like a C (30?).


Not an event you want to experience any time, but even more so 
around Christmas.


I hope nobody we know suffered any serious damage.

Marek
Ottawa, ON


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Re: Stus-List Landfill series

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

I didn't think so. The 36 that I was on is a very nice boat to sail, 
as you expect of a C


And there isn't one listed on Stu's site.
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/brochuresndx.htm

Anyone with a brochure out there?

Cheers, Russ



At 11:37 AM 12/1/2018, you wrote:


So Russ,
   Is the 36 considered a landfill series?

Bill Walker
_



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Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Ron,

Your laminate update is exactly the right thing to do.

Simple, cost effective and no extra weight. Not at all like replacing 
a functional top with a few slabs of polished rock or something that 
looks like it belongs in a condo.


I admit to being a bit opinionated around yachts and hate to see a 
good sailing yacht such as the "36" getting something similar to a 3 
blade (fixed) prop. A man should gently bring the Admiral up to speed 
on the care and concerns of the yacht, then take her out for dinner, 
instead of pandering to a whim.


On Amazing Grace the C cruising boats were known as the "Landfill 
series".  Just for fun & chuckles mind you. Not intending to hurt 
anybody's feelings. :)


Cheers, Russ
exSweet  35 mk-1

At 06:54 AM 12/1/2018, you wrote:
Hi Adamdo not listen to those C'rs who say that the dark cave 
is a good place to bethe dark ages are over

...
I redid the countertops on my 38MKII '77 vintage a year ago...

What a differencethe whole interior feels much bigger than before
We used simple laminate in white and it is amazing...
Used the savings from the counter top to replace the sink with a new 
single bowlanother great decision.


Definitely go for itremembera happy Admiral is a happy life.
Ron C.
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Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Adam,

At the risk of being too honest and taking your request for any 
feedback at face value... please, please do not do such a horrible 
thing as to add corian countertops to a C


If you are serious about going that route then may I suggest a 
Beneteau, Hunter or Catalina as a viable candidate. Then I will offer 
no objection at all.


Best regards, Russ
exSweet 35 mk-1


At 03:03 PM 11/30/2018, you wrote:


I am wondering if anyone has changed out their galley countertops 
for more modern products such as corian or other hard surface.  I am 
not so much concerned about the excess weight as we do mostly cruising.
We are also very diligent about store ng fear when sailing so I even 
question the need for the fiddles.


I just think it would modernize the interior and please the admiral.

Any feedback ior suggestions is appreciated.

Adam Hayden
C 36
state of bliss.
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh. Nice set o' links (filed for future reference).

Whenever I buy oil filters I ask the parts 
counter guy, "What have you got that isn't Fram"


I like Mann and Baldwin as good replacements. 
Amsoil isn't common in Western Canada.


Interestingly, you do not get cleaner oil by 
changing a filter frequently. The old one works 
really well right up until it the media gets saturated. :)


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:25 AM 11/3/2018, you wrote:
I've cut apart quite a few different filters 
from various manufacturers.  Most of the high 
end filters are just slightly different from one 
another.  Consistently favorable qualities are:

High density synthetic filter media
Silicone gaskets and anti-drain back
Metal media cap
Coil spring for bypass device
Thicker can and base plate.

Some of these features are hard to identify 
without an autopsy.  But you know it when you see it.


Cheap filters tend to have
Low density paper media and glued on paper end caps
Leaf spring bypass
Rubber components
Thin can materials

I have had good luck with Amsoil, and Purolator 
Pur1 filters.  There are lots of other good 
ones and lots of bad, but Fram does stand out as 
being on the bad side.  You have 6 
opportunities to do a dissection Paul, let us know what you find.


Manufacturers that provide their own 
specifications make shopping easier.  I like to 
find thread and gasket dimensions and then 
search for the largest possible filter that will 
still fit the allowed space.  I also compare filter media dimensions.


Wix, Donaldson, Amsoil all have online 
references which help you to cross reference and find the best solution.


Filter comparison article:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GWN2wLUqfJ8QbUdxd1z8Jo2L24V2RVQIXLxN0ASuiXxe7ydOlpi8QCpiliBaQa2u449_fyFXE2LXfU8U/view?usp=drivesdk

Yanmar filter for QH, HM, GM, YM series engines 
including Yanmar cross-references and dimensions.Â

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WY-pDhUDtrCXF_4p2grjp_wBiNDq3y6YDQvZ-UGLZHlReYRL1b6BFY-q_-OC2Wyl0GSm_adnVOQl-x7J/view?usp=drivesdk

The Fleetguard  FL3812 cross references to a Amsoil EA15K20.
https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLookups/MasterFilterCrossRef.aspx

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?Code=EA15K20

 Looking at the spec chart you could probably 
gain a little volume/filter media square inches by moving to a EA15K13

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yk6IzUYWWzaPy2DDNRx5Ak5wyM0PB5TL/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 11:59 AM Morgan Ellis via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I agree with Andrew on this one. In the past I 
was have issues with race engine and was 
changing filters often and cutting them open to 
try to identify where the wear was coming from. 
In doing this we cut open several different 
makes of filter. Fran were the absolute worst! 
Since then I only buy Donaldson filters, as they 
were head and shoulders above all others in 
terms of construction and quality inside.


Morgan Ellis
SV MeandherÂ
30MkII
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Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Actual Drive

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I'm thinking it will be more like 5 & a half foot 
draft if floating in heavy water.


He might be floating in alcohol when checking the 
measurement. Not unlikely... being sailors and all. :)


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1


At 10:23 AM 10/29/2018, you wrote:


The boat was designed with a depth of 6’-5 inches in salt water.
If it were floating in fresh water it would sink 
.3”, so the draft would be 6’-5-1/2”

It takes 875 pounds to sink the boat one inch.
So if there is double that added since building, 
then the draft would be 6’-5” plus .3” plus 2” . . .

Total 6’-7-1/2”
Hard to believe 6’-10” – but maybe it was floating in heavy water . . .


Cheers,

Rob Ball
Chief Design Engineer  Tel 508-995-9711

http://www.edsonintl.com/signature/image001.gif


Edson International
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Re: Stus-List Tree Trimming

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

I offered for you to get back to me on #2 if you weren't proceeding with #3.

So here it is, practical repair strategy 2:
- flatten mast area under spreader base(s) with flap sander, hand 
file or belt sander
- make two (2) pieces aluminum plate 1/4" thick slightly larger area 
than spreader base
- drill hole in each plate same size as stout bolt and alignment as 
per spreader base
- glue each plate to mast, using stout bolt as alignment tool, using 
something like "Devcon" metal repair as to secure the plates and even 
out the "hollowing damage" and enough to fill old holes

- drill & tap new screw holes in new plate to match spreader base
- reinstall spreader bases

Tips:
- Don't worry. Be Happy
- The spreader base deformation likely happened during fabrication. 
It looks typical of stainless steel "pulling" in high heat situations

- You are correct in assuming the stout bolt does almost all the work
- I might throw a couple of rivets into the new plate to feel 
better... just don't put 3 holes the same size in a row close 
together (including the screws) as that can propagate into a crack a 
few years down the road.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 03:30 PM 9/25/2018, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Michael,

Yes - a stout bolt with both ends threaded, and a stout nut threaded 
on inside each spreader bracket tube.  I believe those nuts and bolt 
are what keep the windward spreader bracket from pulling off the 
mast due to tension from the windward lower shroud (the four screws 
on the bracket plate probably aren't strong enough alone).


Cheers,
Randy

On Sep 25, 2018, at 11:18 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2018 10:44:23 -0600
From: Randy Stafford 
<randal.staff...@icloud.com>


Subject: Re: Stus-List Tree Trimming


Thank you all for your replies and suggestions, some of which were off-list.

Responding to points in the order received:

1. "Is it safe to sate that the main mast damage is from the screws 
ripping out of the mast itself??
The main mast damage IMO is the indentation from the aft edge of 
the spreader bracket plate.  The screw holes are also damaged, but fixable.




Hi Randy,

  did the spreader brackets have a large bolt going through them 
and across inside the mast?

I believe mine does and assumed it was handling most of the load.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
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Re: Stus-List Tree Trimming

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

In regards to your questions:
1. Not catastrophic, but it is annoying. No
2. Get back to me if #3 doesn't work out.
3. As others have suggested. Bear in mind that 
these days if you make claim, even if it's not 
your fault (and sometimes even if there is no 
pay-out) it counts a claim on your record. You 
may be able to negotiate this at the onset of the process.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:52 PM 9/24/2018, you wrote:

Listers I am in need of your wisdom.

My boat is hauled for the offseason, and I 
dropped the mast again to facilitate towing the boat somewhere for painting.


Yesterday I discovered damage to the mast and 
starboard spreader bracket.  I suspect the 
damage occurred when the boat was being towed to 
the gin pole to take the rig down - the rig was 
towed through some non-trivial tree branches on 
the starboard side, resulting in substantial 
tree trimmings on the boat and on the ground.



So, my questions to you listers:
1. How catastrophic is this?  Am I looking at mast replacement?
2. Thoughts on repair strategies? (esp. for the 
mast - I can probably get a new bracket fab’d, 
and can enlarge and re-tap the screw holes)

3. To make an insurance claim or not?

Note I have the port spreader bracket as a 
template and for fit-testing etc.  It’s 
undamaged (as is the port side of the mast) and 
symmetric with the starboard bracket save for 
the location of the set screw hole for the spreader.


Grateful for any wisdom you can share.

Thank You,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Instruments...

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

My wife has over a dozen ukulele (ukuleli?) around here.

I could probably release a few at shipping cost before she will notice...

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 10:12 AM 9/13/2018, you wrote:

My wife has a French Horn she would part with for the right price.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 11 Sep 2018 at 05:52, David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Doug...can you send me an email offline? 
  davidrisc...@msn.com



David F. Risch, J. D.





--
From: CnC-List 
<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> 
on behalf of Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Sent: Monday, September 10, 2018 11:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy
Subject: Re: Stus-List Instruments...
Â
I have a Signed marine wind. And in a couple of months a Data marine set.Â



Doug MountjoyÂ
Rebecca LeahÂ
LF39Â
Port Orchard YC, WA.



 Original message 
From: David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Date: 9/10/18 05:42 (GMT-08:00)
To: CNC CNC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David <davidrisc...@msn.com>
Subject: Stus-List Instruments...

My son's friend is trying to add instruments to 
his boat.  Any spares for sale out there?



Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLCÂ

(401) 419-4650Â


[]
 Virus-free. 
www.avast.com 


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Re: Stus-List How to post [was CnC-List Digest, lose the External]

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

AND strip the [EXTERNAL] type junk from the subject line.

It helps with searches, DTR (down the road) or if 
you have some Acadian, DDR (down da road).


We can smirk and appreciate that you are active 
on the list while at work but the [EXTERNAL] thing is almost like bragging.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet
Vancouver Island


At 11:54 AM 9/5/2018, you wrote:


AND change the subject line — replying to digest posts is a no-no!!!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
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Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I agree that good designers and builders are committed to do what 
they believe is right.


But you might be a wee bit off on ol' Herreshof, "It looks like frozen snot."

https://www.azquotes.com/quote/541975

Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1


At 11:36 AM 8/23/2018, you wrote:
... I also believe that the designers and builders of our boats, 
(Rob Ball and friends) were using the very same principle; to make 
the very best yacht possible; why, I bet old Herreshoff himself 
would have loved to work in fiberglass(he would have had a 37)...


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4:
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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

All good points.

quote "coming in fast on STBD..."

Many times I miss Wally too. VBGs were common in the ol' days.

Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:58 PM 8/20/2018, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0006_01D438D0.F8AA4B50"
Content-Language: en-us

The fact that the headsail on the J/105 is 
rolled out implies that he was sailing, thus he would have had right of way.


If the J/105 was motor sailing, the power boat 
was on his starboard bow, and would have had right of way.


In either case Rule 2 says you need to do 
everything possible, including violating the 
rules, to avoid a collision. So both skippers were at fault.


And if the dufus on the power boat was drinking, 
he can pretty much kiss his merchant mariner 
credentials goodbye…. And good riddance.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2018 12:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash


Easy to see the sailboat is at fault eh.

Poor visibility and all white sailboat, the poor 
drunk powerboat coming in fast on STBD didn't have a chance...



Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:59 AM 8/18/2018, you wrote:

Holy crap!  Glad everyone’s ¢s ok.

Cheers,
Randy



<https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/>https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/ 



Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Easy to see the sailboat is at fault eh.

Poor visibility and all white sailboat, the poor 
drunk powerboat coming in fast on STBD didn't have a chance...



Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:59 AM 8/18/2018, you wrote:

Holy crap!  Glad everyone’s ok.

Cheers,
Randy



https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Boom insert

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Smart people. Those guys at "sailingservices..."

:)

Cheers, Russ
ex- Sweet, 35mk-1



At 11:36 AM 8/10/2018, you wrote:
Jim, thanks, they don't have it; they suggested the same thing that 
Russ did...have slugs put on the boltrope!


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: James Hesketh via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: James Hesketh 
Sent: Fri, Aug 10, 2018 12:37 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom insert

Richard,

One of the best rigging shops in the U.S. is in Miami, give them a 
call. They may have an idea what suppliers C used for spars over 
the years, or may even know what part asking about.


sailingservices.com

Jim Hesketh
Miami, FL
C 26 -- Whisper



J need help identifying a piece of plastic that is an insert into 
the slot of my boom, (1985 C 37); this piece effectively makes the 
slot narrower so that the sail boltrope fits and stays in the 
slot.   I have a loose footed main, but the sail cover uses that 
slot (Doyle cradle cover). The insert was on the boat when I bought 
it 4 years ago and has not been an issue, however, now it is 
breaking into pieces, presumably from UV deterioration and I need to 
replace that piece of plastic...the Doyle folks say they aren't 
familiar with the piece; there are no sail makers or reps in our area...


anyone have any ideas? thought? suggestions? As always, many thanks!

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255



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Re: Stus-List Boom insert

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Richard,

Why not get 1/2 dozen, or so, regular sail slugs that fir the larger 
opening and have them sewn to the Doyle cover? It's not like you need 
a continuos bolt rope to do the intend job (of holding the bottom of 
the cover to the boom).


Cheers, Russ
ex- Sweet, 35 mk-1


At 05:47 AM 8/10/2018, you wrote:
J need help identifying a piece of plastic that is an insert into 
the slot of my boom, (1985 C 37); this piece effectively makes the 
slot narrower so that the sail boltrope fits and stays in the 
slot.   I have a loose footed main, but the sail cover uses that 
slot (Doyle cradle cover). The insert was on the boat when I bought 
it 4 years ago and has not been an issue, however, now it is 
breaking into pieces, presumably from UV deterioration and I need to 
replace that piece of plastic...the Doyle folks say they aren't 
familiar with the piece; there are no sail makers or reps in our area...


anyone have any ideas? thought? suggestions? As always, many thanks!

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


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Re: Stus-List Re-activate mailings

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Changing the password... funny or mean-spirited?

Let's have a poll to record your preference.

Cheers, Russ
ex- Sweet, 35 mk-1


At 09:24 PM 8/5/2018, you wrote:

Excellent, I will hook you up with my spam provider.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 5 August 2018 at 08:50, Dan Sargeant via
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Please resume sending emails. Thanks.
sargeant@gmail.com
PW : tobiquer

Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List wild B.C.coast

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Okay. So I don't normally associate our little yacht club as being 
part of the wild B.C. coast, except Bathtub Race Weekend and Hell's 
Angles bike rides, of course.


This little story happened on my dock a couple hundred feet from Sweet.
https://www.cheknews.ca/nanaimo-man-comes-within-meters-of-cougar-before-its-killed-471298/

That's not to say there aren't regular cougar sightings here. ' just 
that the more frequent ones involve bipeds and typically happen on 
the weekend when the young lads are sailing. :)



oh yeah... and someone lost a canon
https://www.cheknews.ca/artillery-gun-comes-loose-and-hits-taxi-in-nanaimo-472113/


Cheers, Russ
Sweet, 35 mk-1 


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Re: Stus-List Gas consumption C with Atomic 4

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jay,

Fuel estimate for Sweet when she had the A4 was 4
litres per hour at cruising speed. Speed range
was 3 - 5.5 knots (depended on conditions) with a two blade fixed prop.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:29 AM 7/14/2018, you wrote:

Hello colleagues
Filled with gas for the Atomic 4 in Port Whitby
Canada Day and sailed back to Toronto. Wind out
of the West and tight timeline meant we had to
motor against the wind and waves for 2.5 hr.
That would be relatively “hard” motoring at
4-5 knots. Since then I’ve motored about
another 3/4hr for a total of 3.25 hours, again
at about 4.5 knots. Filled with gas again the
other day to measure gas consumption and got 7.9
litres per hour, or 1.8 gal per hour.
I’ve got a 2-blade folding prop (which, by the
way, make reversing difficult - in the sense that there is no quick stopping).
Does that seem normal?
Online research seems to go from 0.5 to 2-3 gal per hour.
Anyone with an A4 on a C with a gas consumption comparison out there?
thanks
Jay Hackney
Windblown
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List jump starting a yanmar

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

That was a little winded.

If you wish to jump the start solenoid with a
screwdriver, the simplest advice is: put it
across the two big wire connections.

Oh, and try not to scream like a girl when it sparks bigly. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet, 35 mk-1

At 09:52 AM 7/14/2018, you wrote:

Here you go.

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU

Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 7:26 AM Michael Crombie
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi all, does anyone know which solenoid
terminals I need to connect (with a screwdriver)
when i'm jump starting a yanmar 2gm20f?

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii



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Re: Stus-List 1988 37R Keel Shortening Advice?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Noah,

It can be done. Too many details to list here, but this is a good start:
https://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35mk-1
for sale on Vancouver Island, feel free to forward link SVP,
http://www.usednanaimo.com/classified-ad/CC-35-sailboat_29730445




At 09:58 AM 7/13/2018, you wrote:
Hi Everyone, I've purchased the 1988 37R 'Assailant' in Ontario and 
will be using her as a cruiser instead of a racer. The 8'1" draw 
looks like it will cause me some grief with the sailing I want to do 
along the St. Lawrence River and onward. My plan is to shorten the 
keel. Does anyone have advice or guidance to offer?


Many Thanks,

Noah
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Set a couple o' dial indicators on the v-drive,
near the coupling, and cycle her in & out of
gear. The dial indicators will show any
deflection and the amount. You might have to move
them around and try different angles to get the full picture.

Cheers, Russ

At 05:20 AM 5/24/2018, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="_000_b707fc99bda54becb67743b7509e2d18NSCDAG306baadssagov_"

Back when I worked on boats we tried EVERYTHING
– new bolts, better bolts, safetyy wire, etc etc. to solve an issue like this.
What turned out to be the issue was one bad
motor mount that let the engine yank way out of position going into gear.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 6:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 <detroit...@aol.com>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

No..but i'm going to follow up on that. Used grade 8.
Jim

 Original message ----
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 5/24/18 12:37 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody <<mailto:russ...@telus.net>russ...@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing


Hi Jim,

My first question is, "Did someone recommend and
use stainless steel bolts, say 316L, as the "best" for marine application?"

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35mk-1


At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.
Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all
this. The shaft removed and checked after the
second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back
and rebuilt. New motor mounts installed by po
when replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200
hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and found okay.
I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar
situations and corrections. HELP
Losing confidence in boat.
Thanks
Jim schwartz
SEA YA I
38 LF
Washington nc


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Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jim,

My first question is, "Did someone recommend and use stainless steel 
bolts, say 316L, as the "best" for marine application?"


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35mk-1


At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.
Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft 
removed and checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop 
sent back and rebuilt. New motor mounts installed by po when 
replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200 hours on engine) coupling. 
Allignment done each time and found okay.
I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and 
corrections. HELP

Losing confidence in boat.
Thanks
Jim schwartz
SEA YA I
38 LF
Washington nc



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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box material

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jason,

I would go with the larger size packing material.

When the gland nut is tightened the compression
pushes the outside diameter larger against the
walls of the gland and the inside diameter
smaller against the shaft. If the packing starts
too small it will compress but may not expand enough to seal.

I've packed many industrial pumps and we choose a
size that is tight, but before install compress
it slightly, with hammer taps, so it's an easy insertion.

In regards to the overheat question, it is
important to have it drip while running. Not
much, once every 30 seconds to a minute is
adequate to prevent it getting too hot. I adjust
for a warm to touch running temperature at the
beginning of the season and don't do much after
that. The wax in the flax packing cools after
shutdown and will seal it completely if you have it adjusted just right.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35mk-1


At 03:33 AM 5/11/2018, you wrote:

Thanks for the replies. What about the sizing
question: ¼” vs 3/16” material for a 1” shaft? What have others used?
Jason Ainslie, Spirit
1984 C 35-3
Bayfield, ON



From: bwhitmore [mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: May-10-18 11:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ainslie
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box material

I've only put 3 rings in before, with the cuts
for each ring equidistant from one another.  You should be fine.

Bruce Whitmore



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Ainslie via CnC-List 
Date: 5/10/18 8:47 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ainslie 
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box material

Hello,
The stuffing box on my 35 Mk 3 had a steady drip
last fall, so I repacked it recently. According
to my callipers, I could use ¼” flax in the
gland nut (1” shaft). This seemed to pack in
easily enough, but I was only able to get three
rings in and still have enough threads on the
nut. However, I had pulled four rings out!
There’s no way I could get four of these
quarter-inch rings in. My question: have I made
a mistake – should I have used 3/16” material?
As I mentioned, the packing seemed to fit into
the gland fairly easy with just finger-pushing,
but could this overheat the shaft, and are three
rings enough? Launch is next Wednesday, so I’d
have to move quickly if I need to downsize it to 3/16”. Thanks!

Jason Ainslie, Spirit
1984 C 35-3
Bayfield, ON


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Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Brian,

From your description posted a while ago, you do
not have a system full of air. Nor do you have a
filter full of air. You have at most a few inches
of air in the tank pick-up & hose rune. Is this still the case?

Isn't this Yanmar a self-bleeding version once it's running?

BTW, copper washers as easily annealed using a
propane torch. Google for the method. Then they are reusable.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:22 AM 5/6/2018, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0003_01D3E52C.7D8F9580"
Content-Language: en-us

Josh, nice videos.  The priming bulb would be
great to have to facilitate this process.  May
install one next time I change the fuel filters
and am not under time pressure to get the boat
launched…Â   Am still on the hard over an
hour’s drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time.Â

Can the seal washers from McMaster be tightened
multiple times?  Unlike the Yanmar copper
washers…Â   Do you have specific seal washers
at McMaster that work in the Yanmar fuel
system?  Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar
washers when replacing the fuel filter
housing.  A “professional” mechanic had
over tightened the supply banjo bolt stripping the threads.Â

Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it
makes sense; not sure if this would force the
air past / through the injectors leave the
system fully primed. Â Do not want to cause more problems:Â

“If your fuel system is now filled with air, I
would try the following. Engage the
decompression levers, close the cooling water
thru hull, pull the engine stop, and then spin
the engine using the starter. Hopefully that
will pull fuel through the system and return any
air back to the tank. If you just try to start
the engine and air is the system, you will get
air into the high pressure injector lines and starting will be a problem.”Â

May just go the route Edd suggested and do it manually…Â

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Brian




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Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Brian,

It is best to run the engine, with a bit o' load if you can.

If it stops due to air then bleeding at the
injectors is pretty easy but you might get lucky
and it will just hiccup but keep running.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 03:05 PM 5/4/2018, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0056_01D3E3D2.86506790"
Content-language: en-us

I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup
nipple as part of cleaning the tank – though did
not really need to do so.  Now presumably there is some air in the fuel hose.

Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny
manual fuel pump on the side of the engine?  Or
can I try to start the engine [it has been
winterized for 6 months] and hopefully pull the
air “bubble” to the fuel filter / engine?  There
is ~ 6’ of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor,
then another 4’ of fuel hose to reach the fuel
pump, so it would take a long time and be quite
a bit of fuel that is pumped out of the small
Yanmar fuel filter bleed screw.  Hoping to
minimize the time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the side of the engine.

Thanks,
Brian
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Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I believe the rivet idea is the best approach for your situation. You 
aren't going to disassemble these every other year, right?


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:30 PM 5/2/2018, you wrote:
Thanks, Josh.  With seven exit plates, each with four mounting 
holes, I can think of 28 reasons to not drill and tap each hole.


The original exit plates had six holes each (as opposed to the 
current four), all of which were filled with aluminum screws (held 
in place with epoxy) that were ground off at the surface before the 
mast was repainted six or seven years ago.  I have no interest in 
undertaking that sort of job, which I believe to be unnecessary.


Backing nuts would be too difficult to hold in place to screw into 
given the relatively small opening of the exit plate.  Not practical.


I kind of like your rivet idea, and I forgot about JB Weld.  Any 
other thoughts out there?





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Re: Stus-List C 35 Mk II for sale

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

If you find a "fender kicker" who can't meet your ask then please 
send them my way, in Nanaimo.


Sweet is a 35 mk-1 in very good condition and for sale, mid to low 
20s outta do it.


Cheers, Russ



At 07:50 PM 4/25/2018, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_DM5PR22MB08911C898419EFBC5C5B02D3D88E0DM5PR22MB0891namp_"

Callisto is for sale in Victoria, BC. C 35, Mk II, 1974. Major 
upgrades done. Cutter rigged, VW diesel, watermaker, hard dodger, 
solar panels, sailing dinghy,  much, much more. Asking mid 30's, 
serious offers will be considered.


Cheers, J-G Nadeau

 Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Sherwood water pump

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Your assumption is correct.

The vanes travel from inlet to outlet the long way around the 
housing. The cam allows the water to be squeezed so it goes through 
the outlet port.


Although not necessary, orienting them in the direction of travel is 
a good practice.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:10 PM 4/22/2018, you wrote:
Thanks Alan- That sure wil make the job easier (at least until 
someone disagrees). I love this list!  Dave


On Apr 22, 2018, at 10:58 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


It doesn't matter which way the vanes are turned, when you install 
the impeller.  As soon as the engine turns over, the vanes will 
correct themselves.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries GOLF CART

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

The 4th issue might not be applicable for most of us.

From the Trojan FAC section:
3. How far can I tilt my batteries?
For flooded batteries, 22 degrees from vertical is the maximum 
recommended tilt. AGM and Gel batteries can be operated vertically or 
horizontally.


I rarely sail at over 22 degrees heel.
A C is losing ground at 25 degrees heel, according to "Pointing & 
Weatherhelm" in the Tuning Tips section of the cncphotoalbum website.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:37 AM 4/6/2018, you wrote:

There is a 4th issue too for wet cell batteries.

While AGMs and Gels have more options for orienting the batteries in 
your box, wet cell battery orientation matters in sailboats.  One 
should orient the batteries artwartship (i.e. the long end of the 
battery turned beam to beam) as apposed to parallel to the boats 
centerline.  You will kill your batteries much sooner while healing 
if your wet cell batteries are along the centerline.  This is 
because the wet cells that make up the battery are longer along the 
battery width and short along the battery length, so a heeled 
battery has more exposed lead plates if its along the centerline. 
It's like running your batteries low on water.



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



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Re: Stus-List change subject reminder

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

It is little wonder people get frustrated and 
leave when this list looks more like a chat line 
then a problem solving, albeit somewhat humourous 
at times (damn, I miss those days). As an old 
codger I can say the quality of discussion 
degraded when people started getting their email 
message (and replying) on the G*d damn phones. 


Anyhow, to the point. The subject line needs to 
be change when you drift away from the main thread content.


And if your email client puts [EXTERNAL] or 
something like that in the subject line then 
please strip that as it screws up a "sort by 
subject" action... but bless you for checking the list during work hours :)


Below is an example of a badly presented reply 
that needs to be cleaned before being sent. It is 
not meant to single out Rod.  (note phone source, like, who cares?).


Best regards, Russ

===

At 03:35 AM 4/6/2018, you wrote:
I think there is a lot that does not need to go 
to everybody but I guess that is a personal 
choice .  I’ll manage the accounts so I 
don’t get 50 emails a day on my laptop, phone 
and desktop. Rod Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 6, 
2018, at 6:56 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 wrote: > > Short answer 
is Yes we do. > > Have your email client 
organize incoming mail into folders using rules. 
I use outlook and anything with Stubs List, 
Frees List, etch ... goes into folder called 
mail lists rather than to inbox > > Mike > 
Persistence > Halifax > 
 > From: 
CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on 
behalf of Rod Stright via CnC-List 
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > Sent: April 5, 2018 
4:28 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Rod 
Stright > Subject: Re: Stus-List 
[EXTERNAL]   Re:  Marine Batteries > > Do we 
always need to copy everyone on the list about 
everything.  Gets pretty ridiculous with the 
number of emails.  No wonder people 
unsubscribe > > Rod > > From: CnC-List 
 On Behalf Of 
Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > Sent: 
April-05-18 3:01 PM > To: 
'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
 > Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
 > Subject: Re: 
Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries > > 
Sams Club had their private label golf carts for 
$89 each. Like their AGMs, I think they are 
Dekas. > I will one day switch to golf carts 
when I figure out how to mount them. They will 
not fit where I have my batteries now. One nice 
thing about them is abuse is not instant death. 
Mild overcharging can be fixed with water and 
mild undercharging will resolve with 
equalization. Gels never get better once 
abused. > > Joe > Coquina > > From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List > Sent: 
Thursday, April 05, 2018 1:50 PM > To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> Cc: Frederick G Street > Subject: [EXTERNAL] 
Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries > > By contrast, 
my Trojan T105 golf cart batteries run around 
$150.00 each; a pair of them has twice the 
amp-hour capacity at 12 volts as a single Group 
31.  I’m on my seventh year with them, and 
they’re still performing well. > > Fred Street 
-- Minneapolis > S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 
38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( > > On 
Apr 5, 2018, at 12:37 PM, Charles Nelson via 
CnC-List 
> 
wrote: > > A few years ago I replaced my 
batteries with Northstar? 31. They were rated 
very high, we’re the heaviest #31s (lots of 
lead) and they claim to use only ‘virgin’ 
lead, not recycled lead, which they claim lasts 
longer. Came with a 2 or 3 year full replacement 
warranty with the remaining 3 or 2 years out to 
5 years prorated. Expensive (~$300 each) but 
still going after almost 3 years. > I mostly 
club race so I can’t speak to cruising use. 
They are only on a charger for a few hours 
before a race and have never purposely been 
drawn down significantly. > YMMV > Charlie 
Nelson > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb > Water 
Phantom > > > 
[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] 
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com  
> > 
___ > 
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with your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > 
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Re: Stus-List Universal / Westerbeke Sherwood raw water pump upgrade

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

Is there room to put a nipple extender on one the
elbows so it can swing above the companion?

(apologies to anyone who gets hit by their nanny software)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 11:20 AM 3/29/2018, you wrote:

I'm still researching the correct pump. Â

I've pretty much determined the issue with the
Oberdorfer is the spacing between inlet and
outlet when one tries to re-use the elbows from
the Sherwood.  There isn't enough clearance for
the second elbow to swing past the first
elbow.  I think installing one of the elbows
then cutting a bit off the barb on the second
elbow is the solution.  The Oberdorfer
N202M-837 is simply an Oberdorfer N202M-908
with two short barb elbows and about $70 added to the price.

The online pricing for the 908 varies significantly.  Lowest so far is $326.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



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Re: Stus-List Spring Projects

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

I spent the Easter Weekend in our local
anchorage, with a few other boats & friends. Cool
on Sunday morning but got the cabin to 60F soon
enough to make coffee. Nice way to spend a 34th wedding anniversary.

Some time during the weekend I made a list of
"deck tasks". Mostly pretty type stuff, lipstick
& wood colour, to get the ol' hooker ready for the spring market.
Maybe this year I'll put some effort into selling Sweet...

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
East side o' Vancouver Island


At 10:16 AM 4/3/2018, you wrote:

Listers,

Now that April is finally here, I was curious as
to what you have planned for your Spring projects.

On the Enterprise:

1. Remove and service hydraulic autopilot pump
2. Re-vinyl Starfleet markings
3. Service Refrigeration
4. Install new hot water heater
5. Paint bottom

… and if you’re down south somewhere and have
been in the water and sailing already, I hate you.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log








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Re: Stus-List Junk Mail

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I handle list emails very similar to Dennis.
Using Eudora, the newest version... 2006. :)

Very reliable and not bothered by the dweebs who write spam & virus.

cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:44 AM 2/13/2018, you wrote:

Nope.  Do you have the capability to set filters with your email provider?

I have a filter that sends any mail with
"Stus-List" in the subject to a dedicated
folder.  All my list mails end up there reliably.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Feb 12, 2018 at 3:38 PM, Paul via
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hey, can anyone tell me why half of my list emails go to junk mail folder
and the rest to my inbox.  Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks,
Paul Hood
C '81
416.799.5549Â c




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Re: Stus-List Halyard knots (was: Masthead sheaves C 37+)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Here's a good article with a wee bowline
mentioned, from the professor himself, Mr. Brion Toss.

http://www.briontoss.com/education/archive/miscsept02.htm

Also, beware of the difference between a
reduction of strength by X5 vs.retention of
strength... no big deal if it's 50% but a value
of 60% is a remarkable difference.

For the halyard, I put in an eye splice new and
when it is time to end-for-end the shackle gets
the ol' fisherman bend ('cause that is what I know it as) with a seized tail.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:33 AM 2/2/2018, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_CY1PR11MB0968E2B86DA7EBA6CBDCC8E5CEF90CY1PR11MB0968namp_"

Can’t speak for the confined space rescuers,
but the climbers switched from the bowline to
the figure eight, mainly, because the bowline
CAN untie by itself under certain situations.

Generally, the bowline is frowned upon in the life safety situations.

However, when I was learning to climb (a very
long time ago), I was told that the bowline
requires a second knot ( a hitch) after it. It
was there to prevent it from unraveling.

Marek

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 1, 2018 23:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+

I didn't spend much time comparing resources and
references so take it for what it's worth but
the website below did some tests and found the
bowline reduced strength by ~60% where as the
double fish knot broke at ~75%.  I'm not sure
exactly what a double fish knot is compared to
any of the other knots.  Interestingly I was
always taught that climers and confined space
rescuer use a figue eight (reweave or on a bite)
instead of a bowline because of its retained
strength.  It's a interesting read at least.

http://caves.org/section/vertical/nh/50/knotrope-hold.html 



Josh

On Thu, Feb 1, 2018, 10:49 PM Rick Brass via
CnC-List  wrote:

I couldn’t help but chuckle because I’ve
been tying the Halyard Hitch, Jeanneau Variant
since I was about 12.. Except what I’ve always
used it for is to tie the monofilament leader
onto a fly when fly casting. The knot (bend
actually) that I learned takes two passes
through the eye of the hook and then is tied
like the Jeanneau bend. And when I learned it
from my Grandfather it was called a fisherman’s bend.



And, BTW, one of the reasons the bowline is the
most basic knot taught in the US Power Squadron
and CG Auxilliary basic seamanship classes is –
according to the course material – that it it
retains around 90% of the strength of the line
you are using and is the highest among the common knots and bends.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 1, 2018 6:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+



I couldn't help but chuckle that Jeanneau owners
are claiming to have invented / named this
knot.  It's just the halyard hitch with a
different finish. So perhaps it should be called
halyard hitch, Jeanneau variant?






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Re: Stus-List be careful out there!

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hey Joe,

That is normal clear weather dock conditions for 
a weekend boat check around here, just above the 
Pacific North West. Except we don't have none of 
those ice thingies. One of the reasons we don't 
mind the rain so much... no frost.


BTW, it doesn't matter how far away the ladder 
is. With water that cold you could fall in right 
next to the ladder and ya ain't getting yer own 
ass outta there. In a winter around here it isn't 
unusual to lose one or two old guys in a year, recovered in the marina.


Happy New Year & cheers,  Russ
East side, Vancouver Island
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:34 AM 10/01/2018, you wrote:

I went down to the boat last night to turn the 
ice eater off and turn the cabin heat down. It 
was above freezing all day, but a layer of dew 
settled on everything and the temperature had 
dropped from 33 to 30 as the sun set. A 
super-slick layer of ice froze onto everything 
including the dock and there are no ladders I 
can swim to if I fall  in that aren’t at least a couple hundred feet away.


Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List Small lead weight "sewn" into anchor rode?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

The other guys are on the right track regarding kellet associations. 
But six ounces is ridiculously small of course, for the purpose, 
seeing as 10 - 50 percent of anchor weight is good.


I suspect your little weights were sewn in to act as a kellet "stop" 
since it doesn't do much good if you let the weight slide too close 
to the hook. With a system like this it would be practical to 
eliminate chain. Did this boat race in a past life?


Or Jim could have the best view.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 02:50 PM 06/01/2018, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_1769941_70028802.1515279029832"
Content-Length: 2639

Hello all,

On both of my old anchor rodes, there is a small (6 oz or so) lead 
weight with a line through the middle, with the line on both ends 
woven into the rode so that the weight stays held up against the 
line in place.  On one line, the weight is about 10 feet from the 
end connected to the chain.  On the other one, it is more like 20 feet.


What would be the purpose of these small weights?

Thanks for the insight,

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List toe rails

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

I suggest you try a test patch of Penetrol. Apply a very thin film 
with a rag and see how you like it.


It is a very old product made by the Flood Company.
Search out some forums on how people use it. Interesting. If I recall 
correctly, Dennis is also a fan of Penetrol.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:14 AM 29/12/2017, you wrote:

Any recommendations for product to use on toe rails on which 
anodized black is hazy, whitish, but intact.

Thanks in advance.
Bill Walker CnC 36






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Re: Stus-List C 34/36 kitchen shelf

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I can help Mike too.

Hey Mike.
Another significant difference in the boats these 
guys are talking about is a kitchen. I guess they 
are not fitted with a gallery, saloon, head and 
such that you & I are familiar with. 


BTW, where's Wally?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1





At 07:26 AM 28/12/2017, you wrote:

Mike,

Since you are being so respectful, I must 
respectively point out that your C 37 is not 
the same boat as the C 37+ (or 37/40) — or the 
34+ models we are talking about.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log





On Dec 28, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Persuasion37 via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I have to respectfully disagree with 
everyone.  On Persuasion there are three 
tubes.  One at the chart table, one at the sink 
and one at the saloon table for the centre 
board pendant.  The latter is not 
structural.  The first two go through the cabin 
roof with a plate welded to the top and two 
1/4” bolts (studs) welded to this plate that 
pass through the cabin roof.  The other end is 
bolted to the respective plywood with two 
1/4” bolts with backing plates.  A little overkill for something decorative.


Mike
S/V Persuasion
C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34/36 kitchen shelf

The similar tube in the 37/40 just ends under 
the sink and is really just a handhold.


Ken H.

On 28 December 2017 at 10:54, Persuasion37 via 
CnC-List  wrote:
I always thought the tubes were 
structural.  You know hold the cabin roof up?


Mike
S/V Persuasion
C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 9:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34/36 kitchen shelf

You'll have the usual finish work to consider 
when you get the shelf removed.  What will yo 
do with the metal tube?  If you remove the 
tube you will be left with a hole in the 
ceiling and a hole in the counter.  If you 
leave the tube you will have exposed holes in 
the tube where screws were used to anchor the 
shelf.  These holes in the tube will need 
dressed or decorated.  What about the wood on 
the remaining cabinets?   It is likely that a 
silhouette of the removed shelf will 
remain.  You'll also have screw holes in the 
wood which will need attention.  None of these 
asthetic details are show stoppers just things 
you may not have considered.  Good luck.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, Dec 27, 2017, 3:55 PM Ben Sutton 1 via 
CnC-List  wrote:
I am considering removing the kitchen shelf 
next to the sink in my C 34+. It is the one 
with the metal post running through one end 
and attached to the cabinetry at the other. My thinking is as follows:
1. It completely obscures the counter 
underneath and makes it more or less 
impossible to use the plate tray behind that counter under the shelf.
2. It is sometimes useful to put things on 
with the ability to slide a chopping board 
(and only a chopping board) underneath it.
3. I notice that later models of this design 
eg. 1991, do not have the shelf. I suspect there is a good reason for this.


Has anyone removed this shelf on their boat?
If so how do you do it?
Did you regret it afterwards or did it turn out to be a good thing?

Any input much appreciated.

Ben Sutton
Evangeline C 34+ 1990
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Re: Stus-List iNAV

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Blame the navigator, not the tools... and if the navigator is a tool 
then it still gets the blame.


At the risk of sounding like a techno-peasant, is the iNav another 
apple thingy? I'm still stuck on OpenCPN  or  Visual Navigator 
(without a dongle) on an XP box .



Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 08:25 PM 27/12/2017, you wrote:
I use both, but I generally like iNavX better as you get more info 
on each chart. I was looking at Navionics charts of Nova Scotia 
yesterday trying to find Lunenburg and I had to zoom in so far I 
couldn't tell where on the coast I was. Place names and even Bay 
names are very few and far between.

And of course there's the whole Vestas incident in the Volvo last year...

Andy

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List Holiday wishes

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Thanks for the well wishes Dennis, et al.

And from Melody & I, we wish everyone the Best of Winter Solstice, a 
very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.


Don't worry. Be happy.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




At 02:28 PM 21/12/2017, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

From down here on "de bayou" we wish all a safe and happy holiday season.

Joyeaux Noel!

Let it sneaux!

Dennis C.
touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Experience with exp system epoxy

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,

We have Systems Three made near our area and similarly much cheaper 
than West systems.


I suggest calling EPS and speaking directly with a tech about what 
you wish to do with their product. You will probably find a wealth of 
information and gain trust, if warranted, in what they have to offer. 
It's really a pretty simple job but a few pitfalls to consider 
beforehand, are really clear or slight honey colour okay? and do you 
want a high wetting action like a furniture style epoxy?


It sure doesn't sound like an application where you need the 
specialized developments that WEST is good at (which is what you pay 
the premium for).


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:02 PM 22/11/2017, you wrote:


Thanks for the input folks. I should have been clearer in my 
original email. I am looking for input from people who have 
experience with "exp system" brand epoxy (https://www.expsystem.ca). 
It is manufactured in Peterborough Ontario and is widely available 
in local chandlers. It is almost half the cost of the comparable 
West System products. I have a lot of experience with West System 
and think they make great products, but they are a little pricey. 
One of the reasons I am replacing the existing cabin sole is that 
there are places where water has penetrated the finish and 
compromised the ply. It might have been caused by poor application 
of the varnish or failure to maintain the finish by the previous 
owner, however I would feel better applying a 2 or 3 coats of epoxy 
before I move on to varnish.


Cheers,
Doug
Celtic Knot
33-2 c/b



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Re: Stus-List Looking for a C 35 MKI

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Okay Mike.

This reminds me of when Rich had his Landfall for 
sale in Halifax and the wife & I talked about 
having a boat on each coast. Common sense prevailed.


But it is not as goofy as might be assumed if the 
situation can allow for maybe a retirement, then 
a couple of summers cruising the east coast, 
winter in the west with the second summer 
followed by a cruise to the Caribbean. A nice way to spend a few years eh.


For east coaters the follow-up cruise would be to Mexico...

Cheers, Russ

At 06:03 PM 18/11/2017, you wrote:
Regretfully  I live in Nova Scotia. There seem 
to be a lot of very well upgraded C 35's out there. Thanks!


On Sat, Nov 18, 2017 at 9:09 PM, Russ & Melody 
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Mike,

I have one for sale on the West Coast, Vancouver area.

Good boat.

Easy availability from Puget Sound to Alaska.

Cheers, Russ

 01:48 PM 18/11/2017, you wrote:
Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year 
for this, but if anyone knows of a C 35 MKI 
for sale, would you please let me know?


Thanks,

Mike Casey
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Re: Stus-List Looking for a C 35 MKI

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

I have one for sale on the West Coast, Vancouver area.

Good boat.

Easy availability from Puget Sound to Alaska.

Cheers, Russ

 01:48 PM 18/11/2017, you wrote:
Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year for this, but if 
anyone knows of a C 35 MKI for sale, would you please let me know?


Thanks,

Mike Casey
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