Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries (Dreuge)

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

I was in the exact position as you two years ago and I have 4 of the Sams Club 
Duracell GC batteries.  No complaints here whatsoever.  They perform as they 
should.

Ryan
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Re: Stus-List Used Equipment Site - boatlist.org

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Danny,

I just upped the max image upload size to 1.6 megs, so anything you take on
an iphone should upload straight to the site now.


Joel,

I'm using a wordpress plugin for the classifieds...  It's currently set to
let users know when a new ad has been posted, but you have to post an ad to
become a user.  There's no way yet to just get you on a list to be
notified... I'm going to look into this.


Jerry,

Thanks!
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Re: Stus-List Used Equipment Site (Chuck Gilchrest) - boatlist.org

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

Just wanted to chime in here as the guy who started boatlist.org.  

The site has turned into a little hobby project for me.  It's great to see 
people using the site and having success.  The site has also been shared with 
the folks at the Morgan 38 Owners forum and the Pearson 424 owners forum.

Boatlist.org is not high ranked in the search engines as I just haven't thrown 
the money into search engine optimization - again it's a hobby project and I 
have a good old boat that gets most of my extra $$.  The good news is that the 
people looking at and posting on the site are mostly members of sailboat owners 
forums, so I think there is a bit of quality control there in terms of who is 
using the site.

Anyhow, it's newly redesigned now with an automated posting process.  I get an 
alert when an ad is posted and I approve most ads within a few minutes as I get 
a notification on my phone.  

As usual, let me know if there are ways you think I can improve the site.

All the best,

Ryan
boatlist.org
Juniper
1983 Pearson 424 Ketch 
(Former 1976 C 30mki owner)


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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Patrick and everyone for the warnings and suggestions.  Violet Hour is a 
really pretty boat.

I just ordered an ATM mast climber for pickup Saturday.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 16, 2017, at 12:24 PM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
> 
> Here's how I do it: 
> https://svviolethour.com/2015/04/22/how-to-climb-the-mast-solo-part-2/
> 
> https://svviolethour.com/2015/02/28/cleaning-the-boat-climbing-the-mast/  
> (earlier post with my first attempt; part 2 above has more details)
> 
> There are many different ways to do it. One of my goals was doing it cheaply, 
> with equipment I mostly already had. If you're willing to spend some $$$, ATN 
> mastclimber might be easier.
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> 
>> On Thu, Mar 16, 2017 at 9:00 AM,  wrote:
>> From: Ryan Doyle 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2017 11:01:15 -0400
>> Subject: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> I need to replace the radar dome on my mizzenmast this weekend.  It's about 
>> 22' up.  I'm in solid shape and can climb without a problem.  However, I 
>> have never climbed a mast before, and I have to do this work alone.  I'm 
>> curious if anyone here has suggestions for doing this safely.  Is it 
>> possible, or should I call in a professional?
>> 
>> I'll be down on the eastern shore of the Chesapeake, so I'm sure I could 
>> find someone, but I'd rather learn to do this myself and I'd rather spend $ 
>> on mast climbing equipment than on a pro.  I'm sure this won't be the last 
>> time I have to do this.
>> 
>> Any advice is appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks so much.
>> 
>> Ryan
>> Juniper - 1983 Pearson 424 Ketch
>> (Former 1976 C 30)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
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Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I need to replace the radar dome on my mizzenmast this weekend.  It's about 22' 
up.  I'm in solid shape and can climb without a problem.  However, I have never 
climbed a mast before, and I have to do this work alone.  I'm curious if anyone 
here has suggestions for doing this safely.  Is it possible, or should I call 
in a professional?  

I'll be down on the eastern shore of the Chesapeake, so I'm sure I could find 
someone, but I'd rather learn to do this myself and I'd rather spend $$ on mast 
climbing equipment than on a pro.  I'm sure this won't be the last time I have 
to do this.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Ryan
Juniper - 1983 Pearson 424 Ketch 
(Former 1976 C 30)




Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Boatlist.org - used sailboat stuff

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Yikes... sorry everyone... I did a digest reply there.  

Thanks very much Chuck.  I'm glad you found the process of posting to be easy.

I've been working on our search engine optimization and we're climbing up in 
search results.  I'm also still streamlining the posting process on the back 
end, so please allow a few hours for things to go live on the site.

You're 100% right that the thing we need the most at the moment is postings.  
So, if anyone has boat stuff or even boats they'd like to post, please submit 
through the boatlist.org site. 

Ryan
(Former 1976 C 30 mki owner)
1983 Pearson 424 Ketch "Juniper"
The Boat List
www.boatlist.org
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 133, Issue 15

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks very much Chuck.  I'm glad you found the process of posting to be easy.

I've been working on our search engine optimization and we're climbing up in 
search results.  I'm also still streamlining the posting process on the back 
end, so please allow a few hours for things to go live on the site.

You're 100% right that the thing we need the most at the moment is postings.  
So, if anyone has boat stuff or even boats they'd like to post, please submit 
through the boatlist.org site. 

Ryan
(Former 1976 C 30 mki owner)
1983 Pearson 424 Ketch "Juniper"
The Boat List
www.boatlist.org

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 6, 2017, at 5:17 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  Battery test (Mitchell's)
>   2. Re:  Boatlist.org - Used sailboat stuff (Chuck Gilchrest)
>   3. Re:  Battery test (Bruce Whitmore)
>   4. Re:  Battery test (Josh Muckley)
>   5. Re:  Battery test (Frederick G Street)
>   6.  Annapolis Summer Housing (Harry Hallgring Jr)
>   7. Re:  Annapolis Summer Housing (Joel Aronson)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2017 14:23:58 -0500
> From: Mitchell's <themitche...@yahoo.ca>
> To: CNC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Battery test
> Message-ID: <173a020a-d25d-4d0b-b3e8-c45fc60f8...@yahoo.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
> 
> Here is one for you electrical guys, my batteries are over 5 years old. I 
> have all LED lights, a 240 watt solar panel and modern refrigeration. The 
> batteries are working fine but there is no way they are still performing as 
> new. I would like to monitor their amp hour capacity as they age. Is there a 
> simple way to do it or do I need to take them into a battery shop? 
> 90 days to launch! 
> Len Mitchell
> 1989 37+
> Crazy Legs
> Midland On. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my mobile device. 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2017 14:37:52 -0500
> From: "Chuck Gilchrest" <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boatlist.org - Used sailboat stuff
> Message-ID: <009501d280b0$82d1e980$8875bc80$@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I just put a few items up on Ryan?s new used boat stuff list and I must say 
> that the process was seamless and better yet, FREE!  (I know how sensitive 
> this list is with regards to the ?F? word, so I only use it when absolutely 
> necessary).  He?s added some security widgets to the site to keep spam and 
> email scammers away and has also added the option of paying using Paypal 
> which is a big plus in my book!
> 
> The one thing he really needs is items to list, so even if it only some old 
> jib sheets, a funky old stove or all those partially disassembled autopilots 
> you guys always say you want to get running one day, put them up on his site, 
> even if you?re willing to give the stuff away (there?s that ?F? word again..)
> 
> For whatever reason possessed him to do so, Ryan doesn?t appear to have any 
> way of making money at doing this (Sound familiar, Stu?) and is putting out 
> all this effort from the kindness of his heart.  With that said, post that 
> old skyhook, list your used smoke-shifter, and make room in your closet at 
> Ryan?s expense.   Don?t wait til you take the cover off the boat because 
> you?ll be already so busy doing projects that you won?t have time to post 
> your old stuff..
> 
> Get busy, get rich, and turn your half empty cans of bottom paint into 
> someone else?s barn find of the year!
> 
> www.boatlist.org
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 
> S/V Half Magic
> 
> 1983 35 LF
> 
> Padanaram, MA
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, February 3, 2017 2:36 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Boatlist.org - Used sailboat stuff
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all, 
> 
> 
> 
> I've long felt that there was a need in the sailing

Stus-List Boatlist.org - Used sailboat stuff

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

I've long felt that there was a need in the sailing community for a place
for sailors to exchange used gear.  So much of what we end up buying new is
very expensive (and even wasteful) when you consider how much lightly used
sailboat gear is out there that's not being utilized.

My idea is for a simple website where sailors can post their used sailboat
gear and items for sale for free.

I just made my site live at www.boatlist.org.

I'm curious to hear what you all think of it.  I'd love to hear suggestions
for improvements, ideas for how to get the word out to other sailors,
etc...  And heck if you have any used stuff to sell please post it!

I'm happy to answer any questions.  Contact me through the form on the
website, or here at my email.  Thanks in advance and I look forward to
hearing any thoughts.

Ryan
(Former 1976 C 30 mki owner)
1983 Pearson 424 Ketch "Juniper"
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Stus-List Cruisers Forum 38 LF for sale

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Saw this on Cruisers Forum this morning.  Guy is asking $6,000.  Sounds 
interesting if not a little sketchy...

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f152/1983-c-and-c-38-landfall-178387.html?utm_source=feedburner_medium=email_campaign=Feed%3A+cruisersforumnews+%28Cruisers+Forum+-+Emails%29___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Michael, Joe, Josh, Bill - thank you all very much! 

Ryan

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Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

I'm trying to price out a large solar system and new house battery bank for a 
42' cruiser and I'm curious where fellow sailors are buying solar panels, 
regulators, and batteries these days.  Amazon has tons of panels, but in most 
cases it seems the quality is questionable for marine use.  I'm thinking West 
Marine and Defender will just be too pricey.  I know where to go for the wire 
and small components - genuinedealz.com has been great.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Also curious what brands of panels 
anyone has had luck with.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Rob Massa, thanks very much for your response.  From my research, I believe the 
Morgan 382 is plywood.  I assume that the properties of plywood would be 
similar to balsa, but I am not sure.  Since I don't own the boat yet, I can't 
go digging around in her deck to see if it's rotted.  

I'm still waiting on my survey (the surveyor will give me the moisture 
readings), so I will likely have to make a decision based on those.


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Rob and Petar,

Thanks so much for the insight.  It sounds like I have a decision to make
when I get the survey back and can see exactly what the moisture readings
are.  It's a Morgan 382, so I'm actually not even sure if it's balsa or
foam coring.

Thanks again
Ryan
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Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair (Joel Aronson)

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Joel and Josh,

Awesome!  Thank you both very much.  I'll be calling both for a quote.

Regards,
Ryan

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Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture 
readings on the port side under the genoa track.  I would do this repair myself 
as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting I leave 
this job to a very experienced professional.  

In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the moist 
core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion base and 
genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid epoxy.  Then finish 
the job nicely.

Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this?

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

(Former 30mki owner)



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks to everyone for all for the responses.  And yes, this is not a
replacement for my dedicated Garmin plotter, but rather a
supplemental/multi-use unit.  I'm leaning towards buying an inexpensive
Android tablet like Acer or the Dell Marek runs... I just can't stomach
shelling out the cash for another ipad.  Maybe a really solid
military-grade case is in order as well...



Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
> Message-ID:
> 
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
> instrument (I have a Garmin 720 and I trust it much more (I can see the
> screen in full sunlight without problems, it is completely waterproof and
I
> can operate it with keys (not touch)), but I find that if you want a
tablet
> for anything you are much better off with a low cost ( I don't necessarily
> mean cheap) tablet that you can use as disposable. I had very good success
> with a Dell Venue Pro (Windows), an Acer (also Windows) and an ASUS
Android
> one. I also find that the 7-8 inch tablets are much less prone to
shattering
> problems (they are simply much easier to handle and they have a size that
is
> much better for keeping in one's hand). The cost can be as low as just
> around $100 (8" Android) or around $200 for an 8" Windows. For that money
> you can break 3 and buy the 4th and you just come about to the cost of the
> Surface Pro or worse yet to the cost of a cheap iPad.
>
> None of the generally available tablets is waterproof or even hardened,
so I
> would not use it in the cockpit where it might be subjected to water
damage.
>
>
> If you want a keyboard, you can easily buy a BT keyboard for under $30.
Add
> 410 more an you have a complete system with a carrying case and keyboard.
>
> I have a Surface at work and I don't find the screen any better than 1/4
> price Dell Venue (or even 1/10 price Acer). It is only bigger. True, the
> case is metal, but if you drop it a few times on the ground, the screen
will
> break.
>
> A word of caution: If you buy a Windows tablet, spend more and get a 64 GB
> version (or bigger). With 32 GB you will have a major juggling task if you
> need to make a major system upgrade. This unfortunately means that the
> majority of tablets that are available on sale are out.
>
> Marek
> 2015 8" Dell Venue Pro (Win 10)
> 2012 7" Asus (Android)
> 2014 8" Acer Iconia (Android)
> Ottawa, ON
>
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Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I have a Garmin GPSmap 740 chartplotter and a Garmin radar, but I am looking to 
buy a tablet computer (possibly a Microsoft surface or an iPad) to supplement 
the Garmin unit as an electronic chartplotter (running navionics and raster 
charts) as well as just being my general computer - for writing emails, web 
browsing, and using Microsoft word.

I was looking hard at the Microsoft surface because it comes with a keyboard, 
however it does not have an internal GPS receiver.   I'm sure they make USB GPS 
receivers though.

My requirements are:  a good keyboard, a touch screen, GPS (for running nav 
apps) and it needs to be sturdy tough enough to hold up reasonably well on a 
boat.  I have destroyed two iPads (the screens shattered) by traveling with 
them and being a tad clumsy, so i don't trust myself with iPads anymore...  I'm 
looking for something hardier.

Would love to hear what people out there are using on their boats.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Painting a Painted Hull

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Randy,

Back in May I found myself in a similar situation with my 1976 30-1 - which I 
just recently sold... The wife and I just put a deposit down on a Morgan 382 
and we are pending survey... I hope you all will still talk to me now that I'm 
not officially a C owner. 

Anyhow,  I figured I would repost my experience using Interlux Brigtside one 
part hull paint.  You may decide to go with a two-part Interlux or something 
else entirely... but I hope you find this helpful.  I found the interlux hull 
paint products to be really solid... that said, I do have complaints about the 
Interlux non skid deck paint (mainly that it collects an unbelievable about of 
dirt and it is really hard to clean)... but I'll post about that some other 
time.  

Her hull still looks great after a season.  A few nicks from the dinghy were 
easy to touch up and blended nicely.


Cheers,
Ryan


--- my post from May 2016 ---
Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for a 
total of $351.90 before shipping.  

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
  
I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 

Re: Stus-List Shark River Inlet, NJ

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Andy, Allen, and Jim,

Thanks for the responses and Jim thanks very much for the offer for the 
overnight.  I really might just take you up on that if we do spend the night on 
the Manasquan.  

I was asking about Shark River Inlet because I'll just be coming from Toms 
River on my way to NYC.  So, I was hoping to make it further North than 
Manasquan Saturday, and then Sunday do the ocean sail up to the Sheepshead Bay 
Yacht club in Brooklyn where I'll be keeping her for the winter.  

I could do it in a straight shot from Toms River, but I've done this trip 
before (in the opposite direction) and splitting it over two days makes it much 
more fun - and allows for more sailing.  When I sailed from Brooklyn to Toms 
River in the spring we overnighted on the Manasquan.

However, it sounds like Shark River inlet is pretty hairy...  What exactly 
makes it hairy?  Breaking waves?  Current?

Ryan
1976 30-1

Sent from my iPhone 
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Stus-List Shark River Inlet, NJ

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

Wondering if anyone here has transited the Shark River Inlet in NJ
recently.  I'm planning to overnight there on a trip up the coast in a
couple weeks.

Having transited the Manasquan inlet and river I know the currents rip
through there and can be absolutely terrifying... especially in a sailboat
when they're running full strength in a narrow channel and pushing you
towards a closed drawbridge - not that that happened to me...  ;)

Anyone know if this is the case with Shark River?

Thanks,
Ryan
1976 30-1
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Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Randy.  Sounds like you have a really nice old 30.  If you ever have
questions about the bilge pump situation and what I did (especially about
getting a pump in that forward bilge), wiring, keel joint seal, etc. etc.
I'd be more than happy to tell you what I did and how I did it.


Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2016 16:47:16 + (UTC)
> From: RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale
> Message-ID:
> <624205602.17534848.1472748436282.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Ryan,
>
> That's a very impressive list of projects, and a good-looking boat. As a
> data point, when I bought my 1972 30-1 hull #7 in January, I looked at
> comparables I could find online at the time - five of them from 1972 to
> 1976 - and the average price was $13,650 (range $9,500-$17,650).
>
> I paid nearly twice what you're asking, for a 30-1 with spinnaker and good
> 38' triple-axle trailer, and recent projects done by the PO included: new
> batteries, solar panel, and charge controller; all through-hulls rebedded;
> new bottom paint; all winches rebuilt and backing plates installed; new
> head and holding tank; new head countertop; all cushions recovered; all
> windows re-sealed; and a new traveler.
>
> This year I installed a spare tire / carrier wheel on the trailer,
> refinished the boot stripe, buffed and waxed the topsides, painted the
> bottom, added curtains and throw rugs inside, replaced some running
> rigging, replaced the headfoil, installed a vang, added a masthead
> SailTimer wind instrument, and re-did the bunks and guides on the trailer.
>
> But in the future I will be doing a lot of the projects you've already
> done: rebedding the chainplates; rebuilding the mast step support and
> overhauling the bilge pump system; re-doing fuel tank straps and vent and
> wiring; refinishing the topsides; servicing the A4; rewiring; replacing
> compasses; resealing the keel joint; etc.
>
> For the difference between what I paid for my boat and what you're asking
> for yours, somebody could probably restore the interior of yours to the
> original layout, and they'd have a hell of a nice 30-1 with all the
> improvements you've made, and the instrumentation you've added, etc. I
> really like the tiller steering and boom-end sheeting to traveler on
> transom (which it looks like you have) - my boat is set up the same way,
> and it makes for a very roomy cockpit. It's also nice to have a pushpit
> gate (I don't), and your dodger and bimini are great additions - my boat
> doesn't have those.
>
> I hope somebody recognizes what a value your boat is, and I have to agree
> with you the 30-1 is tough as nails and famously sturdy. Mine is easily the
> fastest boat in my club when the wind is blowing 17 knots or more, even
> with an undersized main and a fixed prop. She stays on her feet under full
> sail when other boats have to depower.
>
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> - Original Message -
>
> From: "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: "Ryan Doyle" <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2016 8:41:25 AM
> Subject: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale
>
>
> Hey All,
>
> The wife and I are moving on up to a 38-40 footer. Most likely a C
> landfall 38, a Cal 39, or an Ericson 38 if we can find one that fits our
> budget. Our max budget is about 30k - so, I am looking for a boat that
> needs tlc, but has good bones that I can fix and restore like I did my C
> 30.
>
> Rob, I'm sorry to post about another 30 for sale when I saw you just
> posted yours, but I believe your boat is a mkii, and it's a much later
> model, so I don't think we're after the same buyers... That said, we may be
> looking to buy the same boats... ;)
>
> My 1976 C 30 has been lovingly restored, with the below list of upgrades
> - many of which I posted about on here. I have her listed on Craigslist for
> $8450 - I know that's cheap. This is why - Her interior was renovated (very
> nicely) by a previous owner and she has newer Lexan portlights (just
> re-bedded and re-sealed this spring), so she won't fetch as much as a
> totally original looking 30, but she needs absolutely nothing to go right
> now.. We love her huge galley. We sail her regularly on weekends. She's a
> great boat - stiff as all heck and she handles the ocean passage from
> Brooklyn to NJ great.
>
> She's at a marina (paid thru Dec)

Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Frank.  I'm sorry to hear about that Columbia.  If I sold this boat to 
someone who let her go like that I'd be heartbroken. 

I had two showings last weekend - one was a couple who knew their way around 
the boat, the second were two people who I think stumbled down the dock from a 
bar up the street.  They clearly had no idea what they were looking at!  

Much to my wife's chagrin I do a lot of research I pretty much read up on 
sailboats and look at listings during every ounce of my free time.

And thanks for the warnings about Craigslist.  I get scam calls all the time, 
but I'm pretty good at figuring out who's legit.  I've also got her on Boat 
Trader.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 1, 2016, at 11:47 AM, Franklin Schenk <fdsch...@flash.net> wrote:
> 
> You should have no problem selling your boat at that price.  I hope you find 
> a buyer who will appreciate all you have done.  My past experience has shown 
> that many, if not most, boat buyers are ignorant.  I sold my Columbia 26 MKII 
> for $2700 which was far below the average price of $4000.  It was in very 
> good condition and had an almost new 9.8 electric start motor.  I felt I had 
> my monies worth after 38 years.  After 4 years and three other owners it sold 
> for $2950 and it was a total wreck with no motor.  I would only pay about 
> $1000 for a boat in that condition.  The buyer had never owned a boat and 
> obviously never checked the price of a similar boat.  Sorry for the rant but 
> I hope you guys do your homework before buying or selling a boat.
> 
> Frank
> C 29 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, September 1, 2016 9:42 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> The wife and I are moving on up to a 38-40 footer.  Most likely a C 
> landfall 38, a Cal 39, or an Ericson 38 if we can find one that fits our 
> budget.  Our max budget is about 30k - so, I am looking for a boat that needs 
> tlc, but has good bones that I can fix and restore like I did my C 30.  
> 
> Rob, I'm sorry to post about another 30 for sale when I saw you just posted 
> yours, but I believe your boat is a mkii, and it's a much later model, so I 
> don't think we're after the same buyers... That said, we may be looking to 
> buy the same boats... ;)
> 
> My 1976 C 30 has been lovingly restored, with the below list of upgrades - 
> many of which I posted about on here.  I have her listed on Craigslist for 
> $8450 - I know that's cheap.  This is why - Her interior was renovated (very 
> nicely) by a previous owner and she has newer Lexan portlights (just 
> re-bedded and re-sealed this spring), so she won't fetch as much as a totally 
> original looking 30, but she needs absolutely nothing to go right now..  We 
> love her huge galley.  We sail her regularly on weekends.  She's a great boat 
> - stiff as all heck and she handles the ocean passage from Brooklyn to NJ 
> great.
> 
> She's at a marina (paid thru Dec) in Island Heights, NJ.  If she doesn't sell 
> by Sept 24th I'll be sailing her back to Brooklyn where she will be at the 
> Sheepshead Bay Yacht club.  
> 
> I'll be at the boat this Saturday preparing her for Hermine if anyone would 
> like to see her. 
> 
> The listing:
> https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/5705263847.html
> 
> Recent upgrades:
> -Total re-wire with new 14 gauge marine Ancor wire throughout, insulated 14 
> gauge duplex wire on deck and in bilge (forward bilge pump is 16 gauge duplex)
> -New bottom paint spring 2016
> -Hull paint spring 2016
> -Deck and grip paint summer 2016
> -Water pump rebuilt spring 2016
> -Ignition switch fuel solenoid valve installed spring 2016
> -Keel joint sealed with G-Flex epoxy spring 2016 
> -New fuel tank straps, ground, and fill ground
> -New Blue Sea systems 12 circuit main breaker panel - winter 2015-2016
> -Chainplates re-bedded and re-sealed April 2016
> -All Portlights rebedded and resealed - fall 2015
> -New Raymarine i40 depth finder and through hull Transducer - April 2016
> -New Lowrance Elite 4 GPS chartplotter  - April 2016
> -New low-draw LED navigation lighting - April 2016
> -New low-draw LED anchor/steaming light at masthead - April 2016
> -New low-draw LED interior lighting - Winter 2015/2016
> -New engine blower fan and hose - March 2016
> -New Plastimo mini contest compass - March 2016
> -New fuel tank vent hose - Nov 2015
> -New interior ventilation fans - April 2016
> -New main bilge pump hose/new thru hull - April 2016
> -New forward switched Rule 500gph electric bilge pump for forward bilge - 
> April 2016
> -New 7w Ganz solar panel - October 2015
> -New cabin sole carpeting - spring 2016
> 
> Ryan
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> ___

Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe.  She is nice.  I showed her to some folks last weekend who have
a C 26 or 28 and they definitely commented on the un-orthodox galley
arrangement and lack of a table, so I think some people see it as an
upgrade, and others don't.  The port lights are an upgrade because it
allows for a ton of light in the cabin, on the down side they are
deadlights actually, so they don't open for ventilation.  We keep the front
hatch and companionway open and run the fans and she stays pretty cool.
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Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey All,

The wife and I are moving on up to a 38-40 footer.  Most likely a C landfall 
38, a Cal 39, or an Ericson 38 if we can find one that fits our budget.  Our 
max budget is about 30k - so, I am looking for a boat that needs tlc, but has 
good bones that I can fix and restore like I did my C 30.  

Rob, I'm sorry to post about another 30 for sale when I saw you just posted 
yours, but I believe your boat is a mkii, and it's a much later model, so I 
don't think we're after the same buyers... That said, we may be looking to buy 
the same boats... ;)

My 1976 C 30 has been lovingly restored, with the below list of upgrades - 
many of which I posted about on here.  I have her listed on Craigslist for 
$8450 - I know that's cheap.  This is why - Her interior was renovated (very 
nicely) by a previous owner and she has newer Lexan portlights (just re-bedded 
and re-sealed this spring), so she won't fetch as much as a totally original 
looking 30, but she needs absolutely nothing to go right now..  We love her 
huge galley.  We sail her regularly on weekends.  She's a great boat - stiff as 
all heck and she handles the ocean passage from Brooklyn to NJ great.

She's at a marina (paid thru Dec) in Island Heights, NJ.  If she doesn't sell 
by Sept 24th I'll be sailing her back to Brooklyn where she will be at the 
Sheepshead Bay Yacht club.  

I'll be at the boat this Saturday preparing her for Hermine if anyone would 
like to see her. 

The listing:
https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/5705263847.html

Recent upgrades:
-Total re-wire with new 14 gauge marine Ancor wire throughout, insulated 14 
gauge duplex wire on deck and in bilge (forward bilge pump is 16 gauge duplex)
-New bottom paint spring 2016
-Hull paint spring 2016
-Deck and grip paint summer 2016
-Water pump rebuilt spring 2016
-Ignition switch fuel solenoid valve installed spring 2016
-Keel joint sealed with G-Flex epoxy spring 2016 
-New fuel tank straps, ground, and fill ground
-New Blue Sea systems 12 circuit main breaker panel - winter 2015-2016
-Chainplates re-bedded and re-sealed April 2016
-All Portlights rebedded and resealed - fall 2015
-New Raymarine i40 depth finder and through hull Transducer - April 2016
-New Lowrance Elite 4 GPS chartplotter  - April 2016
-New low-draw LED navigation lighting - April 2016
-New low-draw LED anchor/steaming light at masthead - April 2016
-New low-draw LED interior lighting - Winter 2015/2016
-New engine blower fan and hose - March 2016
-New Plastimo mini contest compass - March 2016
-New fuel tank vent hose - Nov 2015
-New interior ventilation fans - April 2016
-New main bilge pump hose/new thru hull - April 2016
-New forward switched Rule 500gph electric bilge pump for forward bilge - April 
2016
-New 7w Ganz solar panel - October 2015
-New cabin sole carpeting - spring 2016

Ryan

Sent from my iPhone___

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Re: Stus-List Possible upgrade to a C 36 - now also landfall 38

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Wow... That Crusader is gorgeous.  Look at those overhangs.


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Possible upgrade to a C 36 - now also landfall 38

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe.  Yeah I'm going to be very concerned about the motor on any new to 
us boat.  I've been spoiled **knock on wood**. My 40 year old fwc Atomic 4 on 
my 30-1 has not once given us an issue, while I've seen some slip neighbors 
with 5 year old yanmars get stranded **knock on wood again**.  It seems to me 
keeping a sailboat engine running smoothly is a combination of maintenance and 
luck.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 25, 2016, at 6:07 PM, Joe Della Barba <j...@dellabarba.com> wrote:
> 
> The reason we were able to buy Coquina was the previous owners moved to
> Barnegat Bay and got a C Corvette for shallower draft.
> http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1054
> 
> btw - beware of "it's a diesel, it must be good". The boats are old enough
> now that you can get a diesel engine on its last mile just as easy as an
> Atomic 4 with raw water cooling rusted 99% of the way out.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> j...@dellabarba.com
> 
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 4:44 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Possible upgrade to a C 36 - now also landfall 38
> 
> Thanks guys.  The wife is actually focusing in on Landfall 38's, but they
> are pricier.  Although, they do seem better suited to cruising.  
> 
> Regarding draft - my home port is on the Barnegat Bay where when you tell
> people you have a 5' draft they say "oh wow... so you a deep draft boat..."
> I've survived with a 5' draft long enough though, and the landfall 38 is
> 4'11".  Every inch helps on the barnegat!
> 
> Going to take a hard look now at the landfall 35 and 38 as well..  Thanks
> guys. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 25, 2016, at 4:33 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Re:  Possible upgrade to a C 36
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
> 

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Re: Stus-List Possible upgrade to a C 36 - now also landfall 38

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.  The wife is actually focusing in on Landfall 38's, but they are 
pricier.  Although, they do seem better suited to cruising.  

Regarding draft - my home port is on the Barnegat Bay where when you tell 
people you have a 5' draft they say "oh wow... so you a deep draft boat..."  
I've survived with a 5' draft long enough though, and the landfall 38 is 4'11". 
 Every inch helps on the barnegat!

Going to take a hard look now at the landfall 35 and 38 as well..  Thanks guys. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 25, 2016, at 4:33 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Re:  Possible upgrade to a C 36

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Re: Stus-List Possible upgrade to a C 36

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

And here is the link Sorry!  
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-36-2972935/Tremont/ME/United-States#.V78rN_T3anN

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 25, 2016, at 1:35 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> So the wife and I have been coastal sailing our 30-1 around NY and NJ, and we 
> love her, but of course now that we're more experienced, we're considering 
> taking the jump to some longer distance crusing and we're ***possibly*** 
> looking to sell our beautiful 30-1 that I've worked so hard to restore and 
> move up to a larger boat - ideally with a shallower draft and some nicer 
> amenities.
> 
> I've been looking at this 1981 C 36.  Ticks a lot of boxes for us... 
> Shallow draft, significantly bigger, a wheel, and a diesel.
> 
> I know there are a ton of 36 owners on here.  Anyone have anything to say 
> about this boat good or bad?  Any advice if I go up to look at her?  She 
> definitely appears to need a little TLC, but I'm looking for a bargain with 
> good bones that I can fix up like I did my 30-1.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Ryan
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Traveler stopper thing

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Aaron,

That would be amazing.  I'm responding off-list.

Thanks so much,
Ryan

On Tue, Aug 2, 2016 at 9:37 PM, Aaron Rouhi <admiralmag...@outlook.com>
wrote:

> I replaced my entire traveler system few years ago and I still have the
> old one which seems to be like yours in my storage. I can ship you the
> stoppers...
>
> Cheers,
> Aaron Rouhi
> Admiral Maggie
> 79 30-1
> Annapolis, MD
> _____________
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 2, 2016 9:22 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Traveler stopper thing
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
>
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> Hope you're enjoying summer sailing.  Does anyone know where To get a new
> (I'm guess on the name of it...) mainsheet traveler traveler stopper?
>
> This is what I need to replace:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGbTJ6Q2U3aXQ1dXM
>
> It says "Elco Australia".
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Ryan
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks to Joe and everyone else who replied.  After reading a few articles
like this one - http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/-11222-1.html, it
sounds like there is little consensus on lightning protection for
sailboats.  I'd be curious to know what sort of lightning protection, if
any, comes standard on new boats from the well-regarded manufacturers of
heavy displacement cruisers like Hallberg Rassy etc.  I just searched the
manual for a new HR boat and there's no mention of lightning or lightning
protection at all.

Someone raised the point on one forum that inviting this massive amount of
energy into your boat is a bad idea (IE a cable going from the mast to a
keel bolt).  Not sure whether this is a well-founded concern or not, but
I'm leaning towards Joe's idea of clipping some jumpstart cables to the
shrouds and hanging them overboard next time I'm caught out in a storm.
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Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

Wondering if anyone can describe to me how they've ground their mast.  I have a 
1976 30mki and we got caught out in a very fast-moving t-storm this weekend and 
I realized I should have done this when I bought the boat last fall.  My mast 
step is not original.  It is a big, fat piece of mahogany - which I envision 
blasting apart if the mast took a direct strike.

The only idea I've had is using a steel ring clamp to attach a terminal on a 
very large gauge wire (maybe 2 gauge?) to the bottom of the mast, then run this 
wire a foot or two aft and down into the bilge to a keel bolt where I would 
have a second ring clamp hold the wire's terminal to a keel bolt.  I worry 
about how this would look and I also worry whether it would even be effective.

Anyone have a better solution?

Thanks in advance.  Hope you're all having a wonderful sailing summer.  

Ryan

Sent from my iPhone


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hah... Thanks Marek.  I usually fix things like this, but the components on
the small circuit board inside the fan housing were totally melted and it
will not turn on.


Message: 1
Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 12:00:18 -0400
From: "Marek Dziedzic" <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
Message-ID: <blu407-eas48456efa42b58ac12c3c7cce...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Ryan,

it is a common problem with electronics and some electrical equipment ? you
let the smoke out. if you could put it back in, it would continue working.

Marek

From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 11:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

Whatever you do, don't buy the cheap Hella Single Speed Jet fans... I had
two. I installed the first one, turned it on, it ran for about 1 minute and
I heard a loud pop followed by smoke. I installed the second one and no
smoke, but the speed switch is a total POS and it won't stay on unless it's
turned just right. You get what you pay for with fans. My Caframo 757
Ultimate on the other hand works great.

On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 2:39 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Fan Frustration! (Marek Dziedzic)
>2. Re:  Fan Frustration! (bria...@aol.com)
>3. Re:  Fan Frustration! (Della Barba, Joe)
>4. Re:  hottest trip ever (Daniel Sheer)
>5. Re:  Fan Frustration! (Pete Shelquist)
>6.  Window Replacement C (johnr)
>7. Re:  Fan Frustration! (Gary Nylander)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 12:00:18 -0400
> From: "Marek Dziedzic" <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
> Message-ID: <blu407-eas48456efa42b58ac12c3c7cce...@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ryan,
>
> it is a common problem with electronics and some electrical equipment ?
> you let the smoke out. if you could put it back in, it would continue
> working.
>
> Marek
>
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 11:16
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
>
> Whatever you do, don't buy the cheap Hella Single Speed Jet fans... I had
> two. I installed the first one, turned it on, it ran for about 1 minute and
> I heard a loud pop followed by smoke. I installed the second one and no
> smoke, but the speed switch is a total POS and it won't stay on unless it's
> turned just right. You get what you pay for with fans. My Caframo 757
> Ultimate on the other hand works great.
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
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> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 13:00:05 -0400
> From: bria...@aol.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
> Message-ID: <86f37.25f191e4.44a55...@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> This probably sounds stupid, but I use a 20" home window fan  (120 VAC) on
> the inverter. Put the fan kiddy-cornered over the hatch, and still  can use
> the screen on the inside. Runs quiet and all night with minimum strain  on
> the batteries.
>
> Sets up a nice breeze through the boat.
>
> The only problem is if it rains
>
> Bill
>
> MYSTY
> 1986 Landfall 39
>
>
> In a message dated 6/29/2016 9:11:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:
>
>
> I  traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the
> small  ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load
> on one side  L
> Joe
> Coquina
> NOTE  TO SELF ? NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store
>
> !
>
>
>
>
> -- next part --
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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Whatever you do, don't buy the cheap Hella Single Speed Jet fans... I had
two.  I installed the first one, turned it on, it ran for about 1 minute
and I heard a loud pop followed by smoke.  I installed the second one and
no smoke, but the speed switch is a total POS and it won't stay on unless
it's turned just right.  You get what you pay for with fans.  My Caframo
757 Ultimate on the other hand works great.
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Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Aaron,

Thanks so much.  Yeah it looks like yours is in front of the wheel though, 
correct?  Mine is at the very very back of the cockpit.  Against the transom 
basically.  So the folks from Genco said that really kills any space for a 
Bimini.  Thanks for the recommendation for Genco though, they seem great.

Ryan 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 27, 2016, at 8:14 PM, Aaron Rouhi <admiralmag...@outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> Ryan,
> This is a photo of my Bimini with standard traveler placement on my 30-1. I 
> got the Bimini from Genco as well. Obviously, it doesn't shade the entire 
> cockpit but it's enough for the helmsman and definitely makes a difference...
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDZVpBUTQweTFqeTQ/view?usp=sharing
> 
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Annapolis, MD
> Admiral Maggie
> 79, 30-1
> _________
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 2:10 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> 
> 
> Hey guys, 
> 
> After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at 
> photos of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible to 
> shade my cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a 1976 
> 30mki with a single back stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently 
> located at the back of the cockpit.  
> 
> Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all 
> fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential to 
> keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy sailors, I 
> get to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as that.  So, I 
> need advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini top.  
> 
> I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the 
> companionway.  This is a leverage point not significantly different from the 
> traveler location on a wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward will 
> cause the load on the traveler to be much greater and my leverage is going to 
> be lower.  I might need extra blocks to gain leverage on the main sheet.  I 
> will also need strong backing blocks under the traveler.  I may also have to 
> create a new attachment point on the boom.  
> 
> Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project?  
> Better yet... has anyone already done this?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> Ryan
> 
> 
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Stus-List Moving my traveler 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary and Marek,

Gary, do you have any photos of your installation by any chance?  If so, I'd 
love to check out how it's rigged.  Does your sheet attach to the end of the 
boom in the same place?  Do you have a bimini with this setup?

Thanks again guys.  Always easy to find help here.

Ryan
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Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at
photos of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible
to shade my cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a
1976 30mki with a single back stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently
located at the back of the cockpit.

Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all
fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential
to keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy
sailors, I get to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as
that.  So, I need advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini
top.

I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the
companionway.  This is a leverage point not significantly different from
the traveler location on a wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward
will cause the load on the traveler to be much greater and my leverage is
going to be lower.  I might need extra blocks to gain leverage on the main
sheet.  I will also need strong backing blocks under the traveler.  I may
also have to create a new attachment point on the boom.

Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project?
Better yet... has anyone already done this?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Ryan
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Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Tom, thanks so much.  The Raritan bay could be a nice option.  Keeping her
and racing on Raritan Bay is probably out of the cards for us this year,
but maybe that's the spot to keep her next year - especially because
there's nice deep water there.  If that's what we decide to do, I'll
definitely get in touch.

Allen, thanks for the suggestion for Windjammers.  They're quite close to
where we are now and appear to still be active on the Barnegat.  By the way
- that shoaling at the entrance to the Tom's River is still there.  I knew
I was back in the Barnegat when I bumped off it on Sunday.  Hey, at least
is a soft bottom... just keep the speed up!
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Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Edd, Alan, and Chuck for the suggestions.  She's currently on the Toms 
River, so Toms River YC could maybe be a possibility.  I will ask around my 
marina as well.

Chuck - We had an uneventful transit through the Manasquan inlet Saturday in a 
3-4' East swell with a South wind about 15kts.  However, what I hadn't expected 
was the following current once inside.  It was ripping 3-4kts as I pulled up to 
Hoffman's for our overnight slip.  That made for an interesting end to a long 
sailing day when the usually-open rail bridge between us and our slip snapped 
shut on our approach.  

The Point Pleasant canal was no problem on Sunday as we timed it for slack 
tide.  I can imagine that canal turns into a washing machine though when the 
currents run.  The biggest problem I had in the narrow canal was keeping her 
steady when power boaters would go blasting by completely ignoring the no wake 
restriction.  The four bridge operators we contacted for openings to make our 
way to the Toms River were very helpful.


> On Jun 21, 2016, at 3:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki (ALAN BERGEN)
>   2. Re:  C 30-2 -when to reef?? (Kevin Driscoll)
>   3. Re:  Roller Furling Line (Joel Aronson)
>   4. Re:  continuous line furlers (Martin Kane)
>   5. Re:  NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki (Chuck Gilchrest)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 11:33:45 -0700
> From: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki
> Message-ID:
><cabnknf0kvquo8bhp6zt-akcknz_f1ifbr_faex+fgvsisip...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Check out the yacht clubs in your area.  Possibly one or two in your
> marina.  Not all clubs are the large, rich snooty kinds. You'll get to meet
> racers who can give you advice.  Also, lots of social activities.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland. OR
> 
> On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> Hey listers,
>> 
>> After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and
>> interior spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time
>> a couple weeks ago in Brooklyn.  This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn,
>> outside and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Barnegat Bay.
>> It was a great ride.  After just a few hours on the boat my dad was already
>> wondering how we could race her.  He raced sunfish and other tiny boats in
>> Mass as a kid.
>> 
>> We know zip zero about racing on a boat this size, but it's something my
>> dad and I would love to get into.  Does anyone have any suggestions for how
>> to get into the sport with this boat in the NYC/NJ area?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>> 
>> Ryan
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 18:34:15 +
> From: Kevin Driscoll <kevindrisc...@gmail.com>
> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??
> Message-ID:
><CA+LFByqgaBmqh8qvxzF9JSuyHtLBRUMqos+=4fstmt_zrml...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Allen to your question:
> 
> Main
> 
>   - outhaul
>   - cunningham
>   - backstay tensioner (mech)
>   - fixed baby stay (which I am going to remove to the mast)
>   - cabin top traveler
>   - boom vang
>   - Fisherman's reef
>   - 1st, 2nd, 3rd reefs
>  

Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey listers,

After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and
interior spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time
a couple weeks ago in Brooklyn.  This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn,
outside and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Barnegat Bay.
It was a great ride.  After just a few hours on the boat my dad was already
wondering how we could race her.  He raced sunfish and other tiny boats in
Mass as a kid.

We know zip zero about racing on a boat this size, but it's something my
dad and I would love to get into.  Does anyone have any suggestions for how
to get into the sport with this boat in the NYC/NJ area?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Ryan
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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Dave,  

Thanks!  I'm ball parking, but I'd say this is approximately how long each 
portion took. 

1.5 hrs to tape off the boat
4 hrs to sand initially with 150 grit
2 hrs to prime 
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer 
1.5 hrs to prime 
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer again
2 hrs for first finish coat
(New day)
.75 hrs to sand
1.5 hrs for second finish coat
(New day)
.75 hrs to sand
1.5 hrs for final finish coat
(New day)
3 hrs total to tape off and do a couple coats of paint on the stripes and 
stars.  You could also do these with a stencil (but I just used bits and pieces 
of tape)

If my math is right, that's a total of about 22.5 hrs.  This was spread out 
over a couple of weeks.



> On Jun 6, 2016, at 4:27 AM, davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> Ryan.
> Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the 
> paint job?
> Dave J
> Saltaire
> CC35 MK3
> Bristol, RI
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Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Cool.  Thanks James.  That's good news considering I already have 4 ga wires.

Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
   reply-type=original

Ryan,
The experts at Moyer recommend 4 ga for runs of up to 20 ft. so I would be 
very comfortable with that.
James
Delaney
C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC



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Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Marek and James,

Thanks guys.  Right.  I always forget it's about fusing for the wire gauge and 
length.  I have a 4' run of 4 gauge wire from each batt to the main switch, 
then a 5' foot run of 4 gauge to the starter motor on the A4.

However now that I look at the BlueSea systems chart for critical circuits I 
should be running 1 gauge for 150 amps (if that's really what the starter 
draws)... But I guess since the high amperage to the starter only lasts for a 
few seconds, then 4 gauge is sufficient?  

See here:

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg



> On Jun 5, 2016, at 7:44 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Adjustable backstay? (Ronald B. Frerker)
>   2. Re:  Adjustable backstay? (ALAN BERGEN)
>   3. Re:  Battery Terminal Fuses (Marek Dziedzic)
>   4. Re:  Battery Terminal Fuses (jtsails)
>   5.  Moved the boat to Whitehall (schiller)
>   6.  Standard Horizon Windspeed (John and Maryann Read)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 17:14:11 + (UTC)
> From: "Ronald B. Frerker" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
> Message-ID:
><823419262.1145000.1465060451474.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Sam, like you said, the mast is more or less fixed, but not completely. ?As 
> you decrease backstay length the mast has two motions, bending and rotating 
> from the deck pivot point. ?As it rotates (pivots) backward it tightens the 
> forestay. ?That's about all I get with my tree trunk of a mast; no bending, 
> but more than an inch back and down. ?The thinner sections with multiple 
> spreaders and/or?babystays will get more bending. ?Both motions move the tip 
> of the mast back and down since the forestay is mostly fixed (it does 
> lengthen slightly since it's a bit of a catenary and more tension takes some 
> droop out). ?Since systems seek an equilibrium which reduces overall tension, 
> the babystay will loosen slightly with the bending, but will assist the 
> bending motion until equilibrium.Frac rigs get a lot more bending of course 
> by geometry alone. ?And tuning them starts with lighting a candle by the 
> hollow stump at midnight! ?Those with multiple spreaders are the devils own 
> design.RonWild Cheri
 C 30-1STL
> 
> 
> 
>  From: Sam Salter via CnC-List 
> To: CNC-LIST  
> Cc: Sam Salter 
> Sent: Friday, June 3, 2016 9:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
> 
> Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - explain 
> what I'm missing:
> Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay. Sure, 
> it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the forestay, but 
> mostly it's going to stay put.Baby stay puts pre bend into centre of mast? or 
> at least fixes it in space, fore and aft.When backstay is tensioned won't the 
> top move mostly down and push the middle of the mast forward, slackening the 
> baby stay?Tensioning the forestay? and taking draft out of the main.Do you 
> guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full of it??? 
>  sam?:-)C 26 Liquorice?Ghost Lake Alberta?
> 
>   #yiv7134972356 #yiv7134972356 -- _filtered #yiv7134972356 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 
> 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7134972356 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 
> 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7134972356 {panose-1:2 11 7 3 2 1 2 2 2 
> 4;}#yiv7134972356 #yiv7134972356 p.yiv7134972356MsoNormal, #yiv7134972356 
> li.yiv7134972356MsoNormal, #yiv7134972356 div.yiv7134972356MsoNormal 
> {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv7134972356 a:link, 
> #yiv7134972356 span.yiv7134972356MsoHyperlink 
> {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7134972356 a:visited, 
> #yiv7134972356 span.yiv7134972356MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
> {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7134972356 
> p.yiv7134972356msonormal0, #yiv7134972356 li.yiv7134972356msonormal0, 
> #yiv7134972356 div.yiv7134972356msonormal0 
> {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv7134972356 
> span.yiv7134972356EmailStyle18 {color:windowtext;}#yiv7134972356 
> .yiv7134972356MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv7134972356 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 
> 1.0in 1.
 0in;}#yiv7134972356 div.yiv7134972356WordSection1 

Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

My 1976 30mki did not come with fuses at the battery terminals and I would like 
to add them.

I have a simple system with two batteries - one starting and one house.

My house loads if I'm running the autopilot and I have every blower and fan and 
led light on and add up to 12.3 amps.  I have a new blue sea breaker panel and 
all new 14 ga wires throughout.

However, I have no idea what size fuse to put on the terminal of my starting 
batt.  The motor is an atomic 4.

Anyone know?

Thanks,
Ryan


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Re: Stus-List my experience with interlux

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Oops.  Sorry guys.  Replied with the digest again.

--
Hi Bettina,

Thanks!  Did you do kiwi grip for the non skid sections and Brightside on the 
rest of your deck and cabin top?

Ryan 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 124, Issue 131

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hi Bettina,

Thanks!  Did you do kiwi grip for the non skid sections and Brightside on the 
rest of your deck and cabin top?

Ryan 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 29, 2016, at 9:41 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux (Persuasion)
>   2. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux (Randy Stafford)
>   3. Re:  C Nutshell dinghy (Paul Fountain)
>   4.  Propeller (Robin Drew)
>   5.  Kent island narrows (Joe Della Barba)
>   6. Re:  Propeller (IRVIN)
>   7. Re:  Propeller (S Thomas)
>   8.  Raymarine in Halifax? (Dave Syer)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2016 12:46:27 -0400
> From: Persuasion <persuasio...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Message-ID: <692flmt2stt7f44olstb6m07.1464452830...@email.android.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Bettina
> 
> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
> 
> Thanks
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
> Sent from my Xperia? tablet
> 
>  Bmue via CnC-List wrote 
> 
>> Ryan,
>> Nice job.
>> Re finishing the topside.
>> Just do it. 
>> 
>> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
>> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige 
>> or whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
>> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
>> old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left 
>> on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>> 
>> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
>> kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
>> boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
>> the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
>> fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
>> 
>> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
>> blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set 
>> that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" 
>> kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and 
>> hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle 
>> stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
>> 
>> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
>> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have 
>> a problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but 
>> I think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
>> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
>> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
>> parts of the deck. 
>> 
>> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
>> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
>> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
>> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
>> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
>> to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was 
>> at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
>> 
>> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
>> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
>> finally came around.
>> 
>> Bettina
>> 
>> C 25 Savannah
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <c

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the kind words.  It was a ton of work, but I'm very happy with 
the results.  I think this stuff is a good product with bang for the buck as 
far as finish goes, but we'll see if it has lasting power after a season or 
two.  For a smooth finish I can't stress prep enough.  Sanding out bad brush 
strokes or drips is key.

Bob - Good point.  Maybe I'll try to put off painting the deck... Although my 
wife is very keen on it and I have some nasty cracking spots on the cabin top.  
Unfortunately this  hull paint makes every other part of the boat look old.

Tom - I didn't remove the swim ladder.  It is on hinges which were a bit of a 
pain to cut in around, but I just raised the ladder and used a bungee cord to 
tie it up to the stanchions so the bottom didn't rest on the paint.  

Honestly I found the fuel vent and through hulls to be more of a pain.  I 
rolled as close to them as I could and then cut in with the foam brush as 
smoothly as possible.  I made sure to always leave horizontal brush strokes 
just like I did everywhere else on the hull so the paint "falls" onto itself.  
Make sense?  

If you get close, you can see a slight difference in brush pattern around the 
through hulls and around the swim ladder hinges if you get very close because 
it's impossible to get a continuous smooth horizontal brush stroke with 
something poking out of the hull.

Ryan 


> On May 26, 2016, at 10:39 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Bow Pulpit C II (Dennis C.)
>   2. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes WithInterlux
>  Brightside/Interlux Prekote (Jake Brodersen)
>   3. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>  Brightside/Interlux Prekote (tom)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 19:52:51 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>
> To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Pulpit C II
> Message-ID:
><canir+yva2g598djsbzktjoqfolys4373kah4vxbhg3irrij...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/pulpits.html
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 6:14 PM, johnr via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> The yard damaged the bow pulpit on my C  What would be a good place
>> to get an estimate on repair or replacement.
>> 
>> John McLaughlin
>> Falcon
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
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> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 21:30:07 -0400
> From: "Jake Brodersen" <captain_j...@cox.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes WithInterlux
>Brightside/Interlux Prekote
> Message-ID: <03a801d1b7b7$4d3e9420$e7bbbc60$@cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Ryan,
> 
> 
> 
> An outstanding job.  Excellent gloss.  Thanks for sharing your experience.
> 
> 
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> 
> C 35 Mk-III ?Midnight Mistress?
> 
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:46
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
> Brightside/Interlux Prekote
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> 
> 
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
> painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside 
> and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb

Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
grief.

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
excited to work outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got
to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is
the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear,
then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I
then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing
liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
filling imperfections.

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
"No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
 "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home
and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow
grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
to apply another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word
"tip" has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out
there, I think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and
brush".

This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo

The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of
the boat at one time - IE the whole transom, or all the starboard topsides,
so it's harder to see the lines between applications.  I found this to be
good advice.

I started at the port stern and rolled on the first finish coat of
Brightside with a foam roller in a 2' section.  I then took my
much-too-expensive Purdy brush and lightly brushed from right to left -
starting at the bottom in the air off the 

Stus-List West Marine offshore jacket w/ harness on sale again

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

Someone on here was nice enough to the list last time these came on sale and I 
bought two.  They're on sale again.  Normally $199, now $129. 

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--offshore-sail-automatic-inflatable-life-jacket-with-harness--14897433?cm_mmc=EM-_-Promo-_-N/A-_-N/A

Ryan


Sent from my iPhone___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Joseph,

Thanks.  The mast step is not soft.  It's the areas of the cabin sole
several inches aft of the step and just next to either side of the
bilge access panel.


*Joseph Bognar* jbognar at sympatico.ca

*Fri May 20 09:43:36 EDT 2016*


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[ author ] 


--

I find it odd that your cabin sole flexes so much. Have you checked
your mast step . If it has dropped or the wood support is rotten as it
sits in water then it may be the cause of your weak sole . I own a
1979 era 30 and my cabin sole is solid . I also have teak and holly
through out the cabin . Instead of foam you could epoxy in some hard
wood wedges in the troublesome area. I would investigate it more as to
why it is so weak though

Sent from Joe Bognar
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Re: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Steve,

Thanks.  Yeah my worry with regular gap filling foam was that it would absorb 
water, get nasty, then quickly deteriorate.  I was wondering if there was 
something new out there I hadn't heard of that was strong and water-resistant.  
That said, you raise a very good point about unintentionally trapping water.  
Fiberglass sounds like the way to go. 

After speaking with Harry just now I am going to do what he did - buy a thick 
fiberglass piece from McMaster Carr, rout out pieces to fit, and west system 
epoxy them in place.

Thanks guys!

Ryan

> --
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 20 May 2016 8:31:05 -0400
> From: Steve Thomas <sthom...@bellnet.ca>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support
> Message-ID: <20160520083105.EHP12.37992.root@toroondcmxzfep01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> I would be very reluctant to use any sort of spray or pour foam in a bilge. 
> It is almost certain to saturate when it gets wet and cause problems down the 
> road. Aside from that, they tend to not have all that much structural 
> strength. Why not just use fiberglass? Another consideration would be that 
> you don't want to create areas where water pools and can't drain out. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> C MKI
> 
> 
>  Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I've been dealing with some flexing parts of my cabin sole around the bilge 
> access panel in my 1976 C 30.  I've put some wood shims between the cabin 
> sole and the hull fiberglass down there and they help a bit, but don't fix 
> the problem.
> 
> Because of the odd shape of the space between the cabin sole and the hull 
> fiberglass, I keep thinking there might be some sort of hardening foam I 
> could inject down there, or some sort of flexible substance that then could 
> harden to shore up the floor.  
> 
> Does such a thing exist?  Is that a terrible idea for any reason?  Anyone 
> have any other suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Ryan
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,

I've been dealing with some flexing parts of my cabin sole around the bilge 
access panel in my 1976 C 30.  I've put some wood shims between the cabin 
sole and the hull fiberglass down there and they help a bit, but don't fix the 
problem.

Because of the odd shape of the space between the cabin sole and the hull 
fiberglass, I keep thinking there might be some sort of hardening foam I could 
inject down there, or some sort of flexible substance that then could harden to 
shore up the floor.  

Does such a thing exist?  Is that a terrible idea for any reason?  Anyone have 
any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Ryan
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Cool.  Thanks Jim.  I was thinking of using zip ties, but the twine idea is 
good too.  What did you do for your "gates"? 



Sent from my iPhone
> On May 12, 2016, at 6:23 PM, detroit...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> looks like we both are buying the same thing.   mine was "used" but never 
> used!  your item is new in package. both doing the same thing.  saving dogs 
> or kids. 
> bought a spool of white twine to wrap around the upper life line and bottom 
> is attached to toe rails.
>  just have to figure out how to cover the 2 gates where the lifeline unhooks 
> jim
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com>
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>; cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Thu, May 12, 2016 6:09 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting
> 
> From Seamar:
> "Our lifeline netting is white, weather resistant, high strength nylon. 
> Lifeline netting comes in 2" X 2" knotted diamond mesh with double strands 
> top and bottom for durability. It is easy to install and fits boat rail from 
> 18" to 36" high. When new, our lifeline netting has a tensile strength of 340 
> pounds per strand! That's plenty of holding power to keep gear on board!"
> 
>> On Thu, May 12, 2016 at 6:00 PM, Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com> wrote:
>> What is is made from???
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>> 
>> On May 12, 2016, at 5:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hey guys, 
>> 
>> Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting from 
>> Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's significantly cheaper than 
>> West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.  
>> 
>> Anyone have experience with this stuff?  
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Ryan
>> Nobody's Bargain
>> 1976 C 30mki
>> New York
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

>From Seamar:
"Our lifeline netting is white, weather resistant, high strength nylon.
Lifeline netting comes in 2" X 2" knotted diamond mesh with double strands
top and bottom for durability. It is easy to install and fits boat rail
from 18" to 36" high. When new, our lifeline netting has a tensile strength
of 340 pounds per strand! That's plenty of holding power to keep gear on
board!"

On Thu, May 12, 2016 at 6:00 PM, Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com> wrote:

> What is is made from???
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>
> On May 12, 2016, at 5:40 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting
> from Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's significantly
> cheaper than West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.
>
> Anyone have experience with this stuff?
>
> Thanks,
> Ryan
> Nobody's Bargain
> 1976 C 30mki
> New York
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Nice.  Yeah this stuff at Seamar is $57 for 95'.  $20 shipping to NY.  My
primary goal is dog containment.  Porkchop has a habit of "falling" off the
dock when she's hot.  She's never had the guts to "fall" off the boat, but
I'm looking to make sure that doesn't happen.

On Thu, May 12, 2016 at 5:53 PM, <detroit...@aol.com> wrote:

> went on ebay and bought 90' x 24" netting for $51.00 !
> jim
> SEA YA!
> c & c 38 lf
> greensboro,nc
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Thu, May 12, 2016 5:41 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Lifeline netting
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting
> from Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's significantly
> cheaper than West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.
>
> Anyone have experience with this stuff?
>
> Thanks,
> Ryan
> Nobody's Bargain
> 1976 C 30mki
> New York
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

Anyone here buy lifeline netting recently?  I'm looking at 24" netting from
Seamar Sports Netting - www.seamarnets.com.  It's significantly cheaper
than West Marine and the other suppliers I've found.

Anyone have experience with this stuff?

Thanks,
Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30mki
New York
___

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Re: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hahah thanks Martin.  Sounds like filling the holes with similar wood is the 
way to go.  

Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30 mki
New York 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:26 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Holes in my bulkhead (Martin DeYoung)
>   2.  Rudder replacement/repair (Rick Rohwer)
>   3. Re:  Rudder replacement/repair (John Pennie)
>   4.  Rudder collar "donut" removal (Patrick Davin)
>   5. Re:  Rudder collar "donut" removal (Chuck S)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2016 01:05:40 +
> From: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead
> Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08fa2...@dmi3.dmi.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Ryan,
> 
> If I had similar openings in a bulkhead on Calypso I would follow my usual 
> overkill route and:
> Square up the edges of the openings
> Fab an opening filler from similar plywood
> Taper the edges of the opening and the filler piece
> Filled epoxy the interface between the opening and the filler
> Epoxy/glass cloth/tape around edges
> Fair with epoxy/micro balloon or similar easy to sand filler
> Prime/paint
> 
> It is easy for me to go overboard on this type of project now as Calypso?s 
> interior resembles a fiberglass repair shop.  The extra mess and dust would 
> not be noticed.
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
> 
> [Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 1:48 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead
> 
> Hey listers,
> Now for my question:
> Next to my companionway I have holes in that bulkhead.  They are from where a 
> previous owner had installed a tangled series of add-on electrical panels.  I 
> removed all of them when I rewired the boat.  Alas, now I have holes.
> 
> I thought about buying some beadboard and covering it up - cutting the 
> beadboard to go around the chart table, around the motor cooling system, and 
> around the companionway, but that just seems like a lot of messy work.
> Does anyone have any ideas for covering these holes?
> 
> The best idea I currently have is cutting some plywood, sticking it in the 
> holes, fairing it with wood filler and painting it, but I figured I'd ask 
> here first as you guys always come up with something I hadn't thought of.
> PS. - A friend suggested I hang some paintings... my wife nixed that idea.
> 
> -- next part --
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> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 18:08:59 -0700
> From: Rick Rohwer <rickroh...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair
> Message-ID: <e27178c3-b80d-4dae-a924-899546e08...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Thanks for sharing the pictures Joh!  Very interesting.
> 
> Rick
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA
> 
>> On Apr 18, 2016, at 9:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> My rebuild was ~$5k.  Seeing what the professionals do was definitely an 
>> education.  Not hard, just a lot of work.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA 
>> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcD

Re: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

P.P.S - Before anyone freaks about having an electric heater on the stove:
My stove is completely unhooked and there is no propane on the boat.  I'll
be buying a new stove soon.



On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 4:48 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

> Hey listers,
>
> I've mentioned a couple times on here that a previous owner (two owners
> ago) completely reconfigured the interior of my boat.
>
> As a result, I was able to buy her back in October with a good survey for
> a song... because - let's face it - most people don't want to buy a boat
> with an owner-customized interior.
>
> C purists will probably gasp in horror, but I think the interior layout
> works.  The galley area is now the entire port side, and the custom
> starboard bench pulls out to make a nice-sized bed.  The only downside is
> there's kind of nowhere to sit and eat.
>
> The reason I explain all of this is my interior I get lots of questions
> when I post pictures.   These photos were taken when I was installing all
> my new LED interior lighting, so it's a bit of a mess.
>
> Go ahead and stare at my disfigured interior...
>
> ​
>  IMG_4911.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4919.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4918.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4915.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4917.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4728.JPG
> 
> ​
>
> Now for my question:
>
> Next to my companionway I have holes in that bulkhead.  They are from
> where a previous owner had installed a tangled series of add-on electrical
> panels.  I removed all of them when I rewired the boat.  Alas, now I have
> holes.
>
> I thought about buying some beadboard and covering it up - cutting the
> beadboard to go around the chart table, around the motor cooling system,
> and around the companionway, but that just seems like a lot of messy work.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas for covering these holes?
>
> The best idea I currently have is cutting some plywood, sticking it in the
> holes, fairing it with wood filler and painting it, but I figured I'd ask
> here first as you guys always come up with something I hadn't thought of.
>
> PS. - A friend suggested I hang some paintings... my wife nixed that
> idea.
>
>
>
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Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey listers,

I've mentioned a couple times on here that a previous owner (two owners
ago) completely reconfigured the interior of my boat.

As a result, I was able to buy her back in October with a good survey for a
song... because - let's face it - most people don't want to buy a boat with
an owner-customized interior.

C purists will probably gasp in horror, but I think the interior layout
works.  The galley area is now the entire port side, and the custom
starboard bench pulls out to make a nice-sized bed.  The only downside is
there's kind of nowhere to sit and eat.

The reason I explain all of this is my interior I get lots of questions
when I post pictures.   These photos were taken when I was installing all
my new LED interior lighting, so it's a bit of a mess.

Go ahead and stare at my disfigured interior...

​
 IMG_4911.JPG

​​
 IMG_4919.JPG

​​
 IMG_4918.JPG

​​
 IMG_4915.JPG

​​
 IMG_4917.JPG

​​
 IMG_4728.JPG

​

Now for my question:

Next to my companionway I have holes in that bulkhead.  They are from where
a previous owner had installed a tangled series of add-on electrical
panels.  I removed all of them when I rewired the boat.  Alas, now I have
holes.

I thought about buying some beadboard and covering it up - cutting the
beadboard to go around the chart table, around the motor cooling system,
and around the companionway, but that just seems like a lot of messy work.

Does anyone have any ideas for covering these holes?

The best idea I currently have is cutting some plywood, sticking it in the
holes, fairing it with wood filler and painting it, but I figured I'd ask
here first as you guys always come up with something I hadn't thought of.

PS. - A friend suggested I hang some paintings... my wife nixed that idea.
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Re: Stus-List Additional forward bilge pump

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Good call Sam.  That's an interesting idea.  Sure cuts down on the number of 
check valves to clog up.

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Re: Stus-List Additional forward bilge pump

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Danny and Joel, thank you.

Danny, that Whale SuperSub looks pretty perfect.  I think I'm going to go
for the switched one:
http://www.amazon.com/Whale-SS5012-Supersub-Bilge-Pump/dp/B003E21IAM/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_4?ie=UTF8=41ExLs7vjeL=sims=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_=040MZH4KWCA66H7G4RA8

Joel, there's a dual Y check valve I found on Amazon that I think addresses
your concern:
http://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-Dual-Bilge-Y-Valve/dp/B00EFXYNV0/ref=pd_bxgy_200_img_2?ie=UTF8=136WMF8F1DTS722ZGADX

Thanks again guys.

Ryan
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Stus-List Additional forward bilge pump

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey listers,

I know I have been posting lots of questions recently, so thank you for
your insight and suggestions.  It's much appreciated.

My 1976 C 30mki accumulates water in a forward bilge compartment that is
very hard to access.

My bilge pump is aft of the mast step, and while it does a good job of
pumping out that area, I routinely end up with a couple gallons of water in
that forward bilge that I pump out by hand.

I'd like to rig a utility pump or a bilge pump to suck the water out of
that forward compartment.  It would be nice if it was automatic, but a
switch is fine too.

The two setups I'm considering:

1 - I buy a very small bilge pump (ideally with an internal automatic
switch) and try to squeeze it down there... possibly having to cut some of
the cabin sole out and repair it <--- but I don't really want to do that.

2 - I buy a 12V utility pump and run a bilge hose down into that forward
bilge and connect the outflow to my current bilge hose.  I switch it on
when water accumulates in there.

Has anyone done anything like this?  Anyone have a better solution for
keeping that forward area dry?

Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30mki
New York
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Stus-List Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

The response to my inquiry from the helpful folks at Downwind Marine is
below.  My pump is a two-bolt pattern.  Just ordered their repair kit for
202M-03 and 202M-07 for $48.


Thanks again Dennis for the recommendation.



--

"Dear Rayn

According to our Atomic 4 reference information, and if you have an
Oberdorfer water pump for your older Atomic 4 motor – it is most
likely the202M-03
or 202M-07 series – with a 2-bolt pattern right?If not 2-bolt up
pattern you should contact C and learn what pump parts were used in the
build-out of your model boat – or see if there is more info somewhere what
other water pumps Atomic 4  might have used in water pump bolt-up in 1976.

For 202M-03 and 202M-07 you will then need the Mfg# 10725 service kit -
SKU# 40385 – see web page link for more information:

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Oberdorfer-Model-202M-Rubber-Impeller-Pumps-Universal-Engines-p-91002307.html

Sincerely, Marcia
Downwind Marine"
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Re: Stus-List Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

I didn't edit the subject again... sorry guys.

---

Awesome Dennis.  Thank you.  I went down the same road as Steve and saw
that it was $153. $48 or $53 at Downwind Marine is much better.

Anyone know how to tell if you have an 202M-03, 202M-07, or 202M-15?
___

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Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 79

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Awesome Dennis.  Thank you.  I went down the same road as Steve and saw
that it was $153. $48 or $53 at Downwind Marine is much better.

Anyone know how to tell if you have an 202M-03, 202M-07, or 202M-15?



On Wed, Apr 13, 2016 at 4:28 PM,  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1.  Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from? (Ryan Doyle)
>2.  C 29 Mk II Bulkhead Repair (Eugene Fodor)
>3.  Chain plate bulkheads (Franklin Schenk)
>4.  Fw: Chain plate bulkheads (Franklin Schenk)
>5. Re:  Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from? (Stevan Plavsa)
>6. Re:  C 29 Mk II Bulkhead Repair (Martin DeYoung)
>7. Re:  Chain plate bulkheads (Martin DeYoung)
>8. Re:  Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from? (Dennis C.)
>9.  Pacific Cup: Stowing Type 1 PFDS (Kevin Driscoll)
>   10. Re:  Pacific Cup: Stowing Type 1 PFDS (Martin DeYoung)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2016 13:57:03 -0400
> From: Ryan Doyle 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from?
> Message-ID:
> <
> ca+bqz1fxuzgkf-rdzz8k2o0sshebebmwxdfjwq5xh4ybnjw...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Sounds like it's time to drain the system, remove it, and rebuilt it with
> the $50 Moyer kit.  Thanks guys.  Helpful as usual.
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160413/01502bd2/attachment-0001.html
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>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2016 12:57:39 -0500
> From: Eugene Fodor 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C 29 Mk II Bulkhead Repair
> Message-ID:
> 

Stus-List Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Sounds like it's time to drain the system, remove it, and rebuilt it with
the $50 Moyer kit.  Thanks guys.  Helpful as usual.
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey listers,

I have been getting a tiny bit of coolant in the bilge for a while now and
I finally found it's source.  The Oberdorfer water pump on the back of my
A4 is leaking very slowly, but I can't see exactly where.

I don't think it's any of the hose connections - although I may replace the
hoses now that I've looked closely at them.  I wonder if it's the gasket
that joins the pump to the motor, but I just can't see the leak source.

Any thoughts?  I figured I'd ask here before I drain the motor of coolant
and remove this thing.



See photos at links below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGN2NPU0J1b2wyOVpzVV9JSnF4X2VlRmU2R2ZF/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGOUc4Q0o2Q044WGl4WEQxSkhfRFprblUxc2Rz/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGYm13Mnotd2p1X05xNjdiN2xGaFBmb3VNaXlZ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGdC03SGJDTG93MnR5a1ltNnFqVlVOcXZicTFz/view?usp=sharing



Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30mki
New York
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Re: Stus-List Mast fishing

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.  Never used a fish tape before, so didn't know if that was the 
right tool.  Just got one at Home Depot. 

Thanks again.
Ryan
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Stus-List Mast fishing

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,

I'm re-wiring my mast as part of a total re-wire.  I was using the old 
all-round light wiring to pull my new all-round light wiring through when the 
old wiring broke because it was so deteriorated.

I now have no way - or so it seems - to get my new through the mast without 
using my windex wire as the pull wire.  My mast is laying on its side on 
supports on the ground.

Any suggestions? 

Thanks,
Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30 mki
New York
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Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred,

I know that 60hz hum and its harmonic brethren all too well - I used to be
in a very loud rock band that used excessive gain to cover up terrible
guitar playing...

Regarding putting in a bus bar instead of connecting everything to the
engine:  For the sake of brevity I didn't explain that I have most negative
wires going to what I think is the original terminal block - it's basically
just two bolts (one for + and one -) set in a piece of plastic.  The
negative from that then goes to the motor nut.

I cleaned the old terminal block up, and it conducts well, but, it's
probably not a bad idea to just get two new Blue Sea terminal blocks.
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Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks guys for the educated guesses and thanks Joe for the insight and advice.

Some sort of lightning arrest system was my first guess, but I thought it was 
odd that the mast wasn't connected to it... Which would be essential for a 
lightning system.  I hadn't considered an old short wave or Loran setup.  

I'm going to disconnect it.  Thanks again and enjoy the weekend.

Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30mki
New York


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Stus-List Ground loop?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,

I am in the home stretch of re-wiring my entire boat.  The wiring was in
frightening shape when I bought it back in October - much of it was
corroded and probably original, and there were numerous "bad fixes" that I
didn't like the looks of.  So, I ripped it all out and started anew with a
whole bunch of Ancor marine wire, a BlueSea panel, BlueSea fuse blocks, and
went about re-wiring.

All negative wires connect back to the nut at the back of my A4 motor,
which is also connected to my battery negatives.  All good.

However, there is one large gauge (maybe 10 gauge?) old wire going from the
nut on the back of my A4 to a nut attached to a metal plate that is
attached to the outside of the hull.  This metal plate is located slightly
forward and to starboard of the front of the A4.  Another wire coming from
the nut over this metal plate is also connected to a keel bolt.

I don't see this plate or wire on the original C wiring diagram for the
boat.  And from what I know, having more than one negative point outside
the hull will create a ground loop.

Any thoughts on why someone did this?

Thanks,
Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30 mki
New York
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Re: Stus-List Solar charger selector switch

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Whoops! ... sorry about the digest subject line reply.

On Wed, Apr 6, 2016 at 3:01 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

> Thanks Fred and everyone else who responded.  Yeah, I could just get
> another panel.  I was trying to save some $$.
>
> I found a DPDT switch I think will work at Genuinedealz.com -
> http://www.genuinedealz.com/metal-bat-toggle-switch-dpdt-on-on
>
> I'll add two in-line fuses at the batts to protect the + leads to the
> switch.
>
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 31

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

msn.com>
> To: CNC CNC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Auto Bilge Pump on RIB
> Message-ID: <blu174-w36f57a30361fa810847293da...@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> OK the solar panel discussion has got me going...
>
> I am thinking of putting a auto bilge pump, motorcycle battery and solar
> panel charge in my RIB.
>
> Anyone try it?
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 13:23:02 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar charger selector switch
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com
>
> You're putting .35 of an amp into those batteries per hour in the best
> case scenario.
> I would be looking to invest in a larger panel rather than a switch. If
> you want to stick to your plan a regular Blue Sea 1/2/all switch will
> likely do the trick.
> SteveSuhana, C 32Toronto
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 6, 2016 at 12:31 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> A 6 watt solar panel's real-life
> output is so tiny that you could have one of those panels for
> each battery and never worry about even coming close to
> overcharging anything.
>
>
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
> On 4/6/2016 12:21 PM, Ryan Doyle via
>   CnC-List wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>   Hey everyone,
>
>
>
>
>   I have a small 6 watt Ganz solar panel which does a very
> nice job of keeping my starter battery and my house battery
> topped up.  The only trouble is, when I want to switch which
> battery I'm charging, I have to open the locker, open the
> battery box, disconnect the + and - connectors from one
> battery and switch them to the other.
>
>
>
>
>   My question is - is there some type of A/B switch that
> will allow me to just hook + and - from both batteries to it
> and select which battery gets the juice from the panel?
>
>
>
>
>   This is my solar charger.  It's a really great little
> piece of equipment.
>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/CBC-GSP-6-Flexible-Solar-Panel/dp/B006GFPF30/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1459958952=8-1=ganz+solar
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Ryan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
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> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 17:42:04 +
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
> To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar charger selector switch
> Message-ID:
> <36096ab0e3684cedb017e3b30bd78...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I was going to say this - just get another panel.
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Bina - gmail via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 12:32
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar charger selector switch
>
> A 6 watt solar panel's real-life output is so tiny that you could have one
> of those panels for each battery and never worry about even coming close to
> overcharging anything.
>
> Bill Bina
> On 4/6/2016 12:21 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote:
> Hey everyone,
> I have a small 6 watt Ganz solar panel which does a very nice job of
> keeping my starter battery and my house battery topped up.  The only
> trouble is, when I want to switch which battery I'm charging, I have to
> open the locker, open the battery box, disconnect the + and - connectors
> from one battery and switch them to the other.
> My question is - is there some type of A/B switch that will allow me to
&g

Stus-List Solar charger selector switch

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,

I have a small 6 watt Ganz solar panel which does a very nice job of
keeping my starter battery and my house battery topped up.  The only
trouble is, when I want to switch which battery I'm charging, I have to
open the locker, open the battery box, disconnect the + and - connectors
from one battery and switch them to the other.

My question is - is there some type of A/B switch that will allow me to
just hook + and - from both batteries to it and select which battery gets
the juice from the panel?

This is my solar charger.  It's a really great little piece of equipment.
http://www.amazon.com/CBC-GSP-6-Flexible-Solar-Panel/dp/B006GFPF30/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1459958952=8-1=ganz+solar


Ryan
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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thank you guys.  Appreciate the help.  Sounds like I need to hit Amazon for
a torque multiplier and a beefier wrench if I'm going to do this.  I was
wondering how the heck I was going to get to 350 ft lbs - that's more
torque than the chevy 350 I had in my old truck.  I started to imagine
V8-powered tools...  Like the V8 blender from Top Gear - (
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDlMLqdvHzI)

But I digress..

The boat is on the hard and my keel is supported on the ground.  I am
definitely of the "if it ain't broke, don't fit it" mindset.  Quite
honestly, the keel bolts look and feel SUPER solid, but I have a very, very
slight smile and have been told by several people including the surveyor
that the keel bolts are a maintenance item and should be tightened to
spec.  I bought the boat in Oct, so I have no idea when they were last
done.
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to
move... at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a
super strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few
bolts in my lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them
alone?  Or should I buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to
get some more leverage?  Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's
also hard to brace yourself for good leverage on the boat.  The specs say
350 ft lbs for my boat.  That sounds like maybe more force than I can exert?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Ryan
1976 C 30
Nobody's Bargain
New York
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Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey John,

I just did a complete rewiring of Nobody's Bargain and added a Blue Sea panel 
and an inverter.  However, I'm DC only so I don't have an answer to your 
specific question.  I did just want to tell you where I got the best deal on 
marine DC connectors and heat shrink: www.genuinedealz.com

The name sounds sketchy, but they had far and away the best selection and 
pricing on the important little bits and pieces for my electrical system.

Ryan
1976 C 30mki
Nobody's Bargain
New York
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary.  Just found out from the previous owner it's a West Marine
Ablative, but he can't remember specifically which.

On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 12:00 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Gary Nylander)
>2. Re:  Gori 2 Blade Re-fit (John Irvin)
>3. Re:  Rudder crack C 25 (Peter Fell)
>4. Re:  Faria Depth Finders (Ryan Doyle)
>5. Re:  FM antenna? (Michael Brown)
>6. Re:  Faria Depth Finders (Della Barba, Joe)
>7. Re:  Prop nut (Gary Russell)
>8.  Bilge hose (Bradley Lumgair)
>9. Re:  Bilge hose (Joel Aronson)
>   10. Re:  Rudder crack C 25 (Marek Dziedzic)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 10:22:52 -0500
> From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?
> Message-ID: <001d01d17497$70011d60$50035820$@atlanticbb.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"
>
> You may want to buy a quart of whatever bottom paint is there and a foam
> brush - just smooth the rough edges out and cover them. It appears to be
> something thick...??..
>
> Gary
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 2, 2016 9:48 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?
>
> Thanks everyone for the responses.  I am a diver, so I'm more than happy to
> take a dive under the boat mid-summer to check things out and do some
> cleaning if needed.  I'm probably going to leave it as is for now and buy a
> much-needed new depth finder.
>
> Francois - good call on touching up with "leftovers" if I can trade a few
> beers or whatever for them.  As someone else pointed out though, I should
> find out what type is on there before I paint at all.  I'll contact the
> previous owner and figure out what it is.
>
> Now I have some questions about depth finders.  I'll start a new thread.
>
> Thanks again guys.  Very helpful as usual.
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 10:26:14 -0500
> From: John Irvin <john.ir...@rogers.com>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit
> Message-ID: <139640.7458...@smtp201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> If you are close enough Bayview Propeller in Lakefied ON does rebuilds.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: "J Roger via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: ?2016-?03-?02 9:10 AM
> To: "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: "J Roger" <johnbobro...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit
>
> Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C 27 MK III. The
> blades are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody
> experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.
>
>
> TY
>
>
> J
> -- next part --
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> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 07:33:10 -0800
> From: "Peter Fell" <prf...@gmail.com>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C 25
> Message-ID: <56209ca49886406187354dcdb8d91...@intra.camosun.bc.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> I'd avo

Re: Stus-List Faria Depth Finders

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe.  When you say "S-H", is that the unit branded as Hawkeye?

Like this one?  
http://www.amazon.com/Norcross-Hawkeye-D10D-Depth-Sounder/dp/B000JEOEE0


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Stus-List Faria Depth Finders

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

t; Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 07:29:40 -0500
> From: "Ainslie" <ains...@hay.net>
> To: <doug.we...@rogers.com>,<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing prop
> Message-ID: <4A3E0097A3884F0BA2D0D058E872A593@User1PC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Thanks for all the input!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm fairly well set up for tools, pullers, heat etc, and I always leave the
> nut on the threads when I'm pulling flywheels or harmonic balancers. It's
> just a really good idea to hear about best practices from The Listers.
> Thanks again, everybody - I'll let you know if anything entertaining
> happens!
> 
> 
> 
> Jason Ainslie, "Spirit"
> 
> 1984 C 35 Mk III
> 
> Port of Bayfield
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  _  
> 
> From: doug.we...@rogers.com [mailto:doug.we...@rogers.com] 
> Sent: March-01-16 11:24 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ainslie
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing prop
> 
> 
> 
> prop a 2X4 between the ground and one of blades. The 2X4 should be as close
> to the hub as possibleon the prop end
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, February 29, 2016 5:20 PM, Ainslie via CnC-List
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi. I want to remove the propeller from my 35-3. It's a fixed 3-blade (15 R
> 14), and I'm looking for a folding prop. I have a line on a used one, but
> want to be sure about shaft fit etc. The question is: how do I brace the
> shaft to get the nut off? Put it in gear? Put a pipe-wrench to the anode on
> the shaft? Or just grip the prop well enough to loosen the nut? And when the
> nut's off, will the prop come off as easily as the one on my outboard, or
> will I need a puller? Any tips would help. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Jason Ainslie, "Spirit"
> 
> 1984 C 35 Mk III
> 
> Port of Bayfield
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2016.0.7442 / Virus Database: 4537/11726 - Release Date: 03/01/16
> 
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> --
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 07:45:36 -0500
> From: Jack Fitzgerald <j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com>
> To: "C" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?
> Message-ID:
><CAJze_AK+vbwbgXiG8n5pxPEW8+wtPw4-qRKpm-KY-Ha=p12...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I wouldn't paint it
> 
> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:37 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> Forgot to say - I sail New York City to NJ.  Boat will spend the summer in
>> salt water and will be hauled in the fall.
>> 
>>> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:19 PM, Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hey all,
>>> 
>>> Just wanted to get your opinions on whether it's necessary to do a bottom
>>> paint job on my boat before launch this year.  I just bought the boat in
>>> October, so I'm not sure the last time it was done.  I'd rather spend the
>>> money on some other things this season, but if it's a must, I'll do it.
>>> 
>>> Any thoughts are appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Photos at the links below:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGdDZLWU1QZF9yWHYyTDRTbTYxbXczOHJCWjdv/view?usp=sharing
>>> 
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGbmgxUTMyMHl3SjhsWHdjMDhxN19vQUkwTy1r/view?usp=sharing
>>> 
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGQkRROWJPcnZmNThSY1Y3Q1hzM2RnNGp2TkNz/view?usp=sharing
>>> 
>>> 
>>> https://drive.goog

Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for the responses.  I am a diver, so I'm more than happy to 
take a dive under the boat mid-summer to check things out and do some cleaning 
if needed.  I'm probably going to leave it as is for now and buy a much-needed 
new depth finder.

Francois - good call on touching up with "leftovers" if I can trade a few beers 
or whatever for them.  As someone else pointed out though, I should find out 
what type is on there before I paint at all.  I'll contact the previous owner 
and figure out what it is.

Now I have some questions about depth finders.  I'll start a new thread.

Thanks again guys.  Very helpful as usual.
___

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Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Forgot to say - I sail New York City to NJ.  Boat will spend the summer in
salt water and will be hauled in the fall.

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:19 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> Just wanted to get your opinions on whether it's necessary to do a bottom
> paint job on my boat before launch this year.  I just bought the boat in
> October, so I'm not sure the last time it was done.  I'd rather spend the
> money on some other things this season, but if it's a must, I'll do it.
>
> Any thoughts are appreciated.
>
> Photos at the links below:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGdDZLWU1QZF9yWHYyTDRTbTYxbXczOHJCWjdv/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGbmgxUTMyMHl3SjhsWHdjMDhxN19vQUkwTy1r/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGQkRROWJPcnZmNThSY1Y3Q1hzM2RnNGp2TkNz/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGaGh4eDhESi1LVU5VWXZrUzluU2Z0YThDMU1n/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGd2R3RmpOMGNfdjhtTlJhRGhwZGQ2Q3lDWnVZ/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGUl9XNzVZSlR2THV4S2gxNXhoWnhsWFIyRGNZ/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> Thanks,
> Ryan
>
>
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Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

Just wanted to get your opinions on whether it's necessary to do a bottom
paint job on my boat before launch this year.  I just bought the boat in
October, so I'm not sure the last time it was done.  I'd rather spend the
money on some other things this season, but if it's a must, I'll do it.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Photos at the links below:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGdDZLWU1QZF9yWHYyTDRTbTYxbXczOHJCWjdv/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGbmgxUTMyMHl3SjhsWHdjMDhxN19vQUkwTy1r/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGQkRROWJPcnZmNThSY1Y3Q1hzM2RnNGp2TkNz/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGaGh4eDhESi1LVU5VWXZrUzluU2Z0YThDMU1n/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGd2R3RmpOMGNfdjhtTlJhRGhwZGQ2Q3lDWnVZ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGUl9XNzVZSlR2THV4S2gxNXhoWnhsWFIyRGNZ/view?usp=sharing


Thanks,
Ryan
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Re: Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

I got ya.  Thank you.

On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 3:53 PM, Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
wrote:

> Not that – failing closed when I really need the engine to start.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Ryan Doyle [mailto:ryanpdo...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 23, 2016 15:40
> *To:* Della Barba, Joe
> *Cc:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve
>
>
>
> Thanks Joe.  Yeah it is a potential failure point.  That's a real concern
> of mine.  I would keep the original shut off valve and install the solenoid
> valve down the line.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 3:37 PM, Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
> wrote:
>
> Not me –too much of a failure point for my taste.
>
> What I do is turn my fuel pump off and let the engine run the fuel out of
> the carb when I am done for the day. ABYC/USCG regs want a manual
> activation or bypass if you install one of these.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 23, 2016 15:23
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve
>
>
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> Wondering if anyone here has installed a solenoid valve to cut off fuel
> flow when the ignition is turned off for their Atomic 4.  My fuel tank has
> the standard hand twist valve at the top of the tank, but for additional
> safety I was thinking about adding a solenoid valve that automatically cuts
> fuel flow when I turn the ignition off.
>
> Just curious if anyone here has done it, if so I'd love to know which
> valve you used plus any other pointers.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Ryan
>
> Nobody's Bargain
>
> 1976 C 30mki
>
> New York
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Sorry Joe.. I misunderstood.  You're saying that the solenoid valve itself 
should have manual control as well, right?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 23, 2016, at 15:40, Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Joe.  Yeah it is a potential failure point.  That's a real concern of 
> mine.  I would keep the original shut off valve and install the solenoid 
> valve down the line.  
> 
>> On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 3:37 PM, Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> 
>> wrote:
>> Not me –too much of a failure point for my taste.
>> 
>> What I do is turn my fuel pump off and let the engine run the fuel out of 
>> the carb when I am done for the day. ABYC/USCG regs want a manual activation 
>> or bypass if you install one of these.
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>> C 35 MK I
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan 
>> Doyle via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2016 15:23
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Ryan Doyle
>> Subject: Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Hey everyone,
>> 
>> Wondering if anyone here has installed a solenoid valve to cut off fuel flow 
>> when the ignition is turned off for their Atomic 4.  My fuel tank has the 
>> standard hand twist valve at the top of the tank, but for additional safety 
>> I was thinking about adding a solenoid valve that automatically cuts fuel 
>> flow when I turn the ignition off.
>> 
>> Just curious if anyone here has done it, if so I'd love to know which valve 
>> you used plus any other pointers.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks in advance,
>> 
>> Ryan
>> 
>> Nobody's Bargain
>> 
>> 1976 C 30mki
>> 
>> New York
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe.  Yeah it is a potential failure point.  That's a real concern
of mine.  I would keep the original shut off valve and install the solenoid
valve down the line.

On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 3:37 PM, Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
wrote:

> Not me –too much of a failure point for my taste.
>
> What I do is turn my fuel pump off and let the engine run the fuel out of
> the carb when I am done for the day. ABYC/USCG regs want a manual
> activation or bypass if you install one of these.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 23, 2016 15:23
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve
>
>
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> Wondering if anyone here has installed a solenoid valve to cut off fuel
> flow when the ignition is turned off for their Atomic 4.  My fuel tank has
> the standard hand twist valve at the top of the tank, but for additional
> safety I was thinking about adding a solenoid valve that automatically cuts
> fuel flow when I turn the ignition off.
>
> Just curious if anyone here has done it, if so I'd love to know which
> valve you used plus any other pointers.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Ryan
>
> Nobody's Bargain
>
> 1976 C 30mki
>
> New York
>
>
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Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,

Wondering if anyone here has installed a solenoid valve to cut off fuel
flow when the ignition is turned off for their Atomic 4.  My fuel tank has
the standard hand twist valve at the top of the tank, but for additional
safety I was thinking about adding a solenoid valve that automatically cuts
fuel flow when I turn the ignition off.

Just curious if anyone here has done it, if so I'd love to know which valve
you used plus any other pointers.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30mki
New York
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Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks for the heads-up Steve.  I've been waiting for these to come back on
sale at WM.  I just bought two.
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Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Randy,

I have 30-1 hull number 377.  She's a 1976 model year built in 12/75.

I too have a slider between the head and the salon, but nothing between the 
V-berth and the head.  I'd imagine it would have to be a swing door and it 
would probably be a tight fit.

I'm on the train, so I cant really view this link right now, but Aaron Rouhi 
posted this Standard and Optional equipment list the other day for the 30mki 
which I thought was pretty cool.  I don't remember seeing a door option on it.  
Not sure what year it's from:
> https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html
> 


Ryan Doyle
S/V Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30mki #377
New York


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2016 02:52:45 + (UTC)
From: randy.staff...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
Message-ID:
   <414472037.2608189.1455159165092.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

C Sailors- 

I noticed the owner of C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community. 

The C 30 MK1 hull #7 I just bought has a sliding door between the salon and 
the head, but no door between the head and the v-berth. Some of the C 30 MK1 
brochures (I suspect later ones) show a hinged door between salon and head, and 
a folding door or double hinged doors between head and v-berth. Does anyone 
know if the door(s) between head and v-berth were an addition in later hull 
numbers? Or maybe my boat's doors were removed by a former owner and never 
replaced. Thanks in advance. 

Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and the 
brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks it's 
higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by 
differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I launch 
her this spring, but just wanted to check with you. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30 MK1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO ___

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Re: Stus-List C 30 Equipment List

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Very cool.  Thanks for sharing...  I'd be curious to how they did the
shower.

On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 4:36 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was organizing papers and came across the original Standard and Optional
> Equipment list for my C 30. Interesting to read:
>
>
> https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html
> 
> StandardOptionalEqList.pdf
> 
> www.docdroid.net
> View and download StandardOptionalEqList.pdf on DocDroid
>
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Chainplate inspection/possibly re-bedding

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,

Thanks very much.  Do you know what the bulkheads the chainplates attach to
are made from?  Is it solid fiberglass or marine plywood covered in
fiberglass?

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 10:31 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had some leaking on my 1980 version (#593) but it was from cracks in the
> aluminum cover at deck level. By the way, all of our early 30's are MK1's,
> it wasn't until the mid to late '80's that they came out with the II, which
> is quite different.
>
> I pulled the chainplates out - a rather simple job as the bolts are easy
> to get to. Previous owners or mechanics had kept plenty of sealant under
> the covers, so there was minimal moisture intrusion. I cored out some balsa
> just to make sure, built a little dam and filled with epoxy. Then filed it
> out just enough to get the plate back in and reinstalled with new covers I
> built from stainless plate, with the same screw pattern, but a little
> larger than the originals to cover the glass work.
>
> I did discover that the chainplates were not centered in the boat properly
> (Monday AM boat?). The starboard plate was an inch closer to the center of
> the boat than the port one! That was part of the repair, which just
> consisted of drilling some new holes in the bulkhead and enlarging the
> thru-deck hole, and sealing with epoxy. The chainplates were in perfect
> shape.
>
> I did this repair over 10 years ago and have had no probems since. I did
> use butyl under the new covers to get a good seal.
>
> Gary Nylander
> 30-1
> Maryland
>
> -Original Message-----
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2016 8:47 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Chainplate inspection/possibly re-bedding
>
> After rain recently I noticed a little rust-colored water leaking out from
> behind my chainplate on the port bulkhead on the interior.  The chainplates
> themselves look shiny and new, but I'm afraid some water ingress has rusted
> some of the bolts through the bulkhead.
>
> I resealed where both chainplates protrude from the deck to stop any water
> from coming in, but I think it's time to really inspect (and possibly
> re-do) both chainplates.
>
> My mast is removed, and the boat is covered.  I'm thinking I'm going to
> remove some bolts and see what's going on inside the bulkheads behind the
> chainplates… see if there's any rot in there.  I assume these bulkheads on
> my 1976 30 MKI are marine ply covered in fiberglass.
>
> Has anyone does this before on a 30MK I?  Any suggestions/anything I
> should know before I embark on this project?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Ryan
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Garmin 276C BlueChart upgrade? Replace?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hi Richard,

We do mostly day sailing from up on the Hudson down the NJ coast - no serious 
cruising or offshore stuff.  FWIW... I love my little Lowrance unit.  I was 
originally drawn to the Lowrance name because my grandfather had Lowrance 
navigation equipment in his old Piper Dakota.  

You might want something bigger with more bells and whistles, but I like the 
simplicity of my little Elite 4.  The one thing I might do if I was buying now 
is get a Lowrance model with a larger screen.  Ours is very bright, but no more 
than 5"x3".

We have an Elite 4 without a depth transducer.  It was an absolute steal 
price-wise (I think it was under $170).  It has a bright color screen and it's 
easy to read.  You can upgrade to full Navionics charts with a little SD card 
for around $120 at WestMarine if I remember correctly.  The unit comes with a 
more basic chart set already installed.

I also have the Navionics apps on my iphone and ipad as backups, as well as 
paper charts, of course. 

I've heard people complain about customer service with Lowrance, but I've never 
had to call as my unit has always worked.  Build quality seems great and I find 
the menus easy to use. 

Again, you may be looking for something with more bells and whistles... If so 
I'd look at Lowrance's higher end models.  I've heard the new Garmin units are 
great as well, but I've never owned one. Hope this helps a little.

All the best,
Ryan



Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 5, 2016, at 08:47, Richard Walter via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ahoy!
> 
> We love our old Garmin 276C. It is time, however, to upgrade. Should we 
> upgrade our BlueCharts? If so how? Or should we get a new GPS/chartplotter 
> altogether? We have the Raymarine ST-60s on the boat already.
> 
> We sail NYC to Maine.
> 
> Thanks,
> Richard 
> s/v INDIGO
> Watch Hill
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Looking at a second boat - must be out of my mind!

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Wow!  I'm very jealous.  Congrats Joel!

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 4:44 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've known several cruisers with a Hylas 44--great boats!  Congrats,
> Joel!!!
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
>
> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Congrats!
> On Feb 5, 2016 4:32 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> The admiral and I have been talking about selling my C someday and
>> buying a boat that is more comfortable to cruise. I've been watching a
>> Hylas 44 on Yachtworld. After a recent price reduction we made a ridiculous
>> offer that was accepted, so we are headed to Miami this weekend. If we like
>> her and she has no major issues (beyond what the broker told us) the plan
>> is to bring her to Annapolis late March, do the Bermuda race on The Office
>> and then put The Office up for sale.
>>
>> Anyone sail a Hylas 44?
>> Anyone want to buy a C 35/3?
>> Anyone up for a delivery (she has a full cockpit enclosure)?
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
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Re: Stus-List Garmin 276C BlueChart upgrade? Replace?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Touching on what Bill just said… I'm generally a fan of fixing things on
the boat rather than replacing them, but my exception is electronics.  The
technology advances and the prices come down so fast that it's normally
smarter to just replace.

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 11:10 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The 276c remains one of the most useful units Garmin ever produced. I
> still use mine, but mostly on the screen showing estimated arrivals, SOG
> etc. In other words, I use it as a trip computer. One thing about these
> units is that at some point, the internal button battery wears out and the
> unit will stop holding settings. This happened to mine a couple years ago,
> and I was able to find information on how to replace it, and suggestions on
> exactly what battery number is needed. It is a special button battery with
> leads welded to it so it can be soldered to the circuit board. You cannot
> directly solder a button battery to anything. This repair was well worth
> the effort involved. That said, I'm not sure chart updates are even still
> available, and I bought a newer Garmin with included charts and a bigger
> brighter screen to use as a dedicated chart display.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 2/5/2016 8:47 AM, Richard Walter via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Ahoy!
>
> We love our old Garmin 276C. It is time, however, to upgrade. Should we
> upgrade our BlueCharts? If so how? Or should we get a new GPS/chartplotter
> altogether? We have the Raymarine ST-60s on the boat already.
>
> We sail NYC to Maine.
>
> Thanks,
> Richard
> s/v INDIGO
> Watch Hill
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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>
>
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Stus-List Chainplate inspection/possibly re-bedding

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

After rain recently I noticed a little rust-colored water leaking out from 
behind my chainplate on the port bulkhead on the interior.  The chainplates 
themselves look shiny and new, but I'm afraid some water ingress has rusted 
some of the bolts through the bulkhead.

I resealed where both chainplates protrude from the deck to stop any water from 
coming in, but I think it's time to really inspect (and possibly re-do) both 
chainplates.

My mast is removed, and the boat is covered.  I'm thinking I'm going to remove 
some bolts and see what's going on inside the bulkheads behind the chainplates… 
see if there's any rot in there.  I assume these bulkheads on my 1976 30 MKI 
are marine ply covered in fiberglass.  

Has anyone does this before on a 30MK I?  Any suggestions/anything I should 
know before I embark on this project?

Thanks in advance.

Ryan




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Re: Stus-List Chainplate inspection/possibly re-bedding

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks so much Joseph.  Was this an MK I or an MK II?  The balsa core was in 
your deck? 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 3, 2016, at 22:16, Joseph Bognar via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> My 1979 C had leaking chain Plates. It rotted out the balsa core and I 
> had a 2 ft square area around the chain plates re done . Access to the chain 
> plates is really easy . You can reach the fasteners from the lockers on each 
> side 
> 
> Sent from Joe Bognar
> 
> 
>> On Feb 3, 2016, at 8:47 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> After rain recently I noticed a little rust-colored water leaking out from 
>> behind my chainplate on the port bulkhead on the interior.  The chainplates 
>> themselves look shiny and new, but I'm afraid some water ingress has rusted 
>> some of the bolts through the bulkhead.
>> 
>> I resealed where both chainplates protrude from the deck to stop any water 
>> from coming in, but I think it's time to really inspect (and possibly re-do) 
>> both chainplates.
>> 
>> My mast is removed, and the boat is covered.  I'm thinking I'm going to 
>> remove some bolts and see what's going on inside the bulkheads behind the 
>> chainplates… see if there's any rot in there.  I assume these bulkheads on 
>> my 1976 30 MKI are marine ply covered in fiberglass.  
>> 
>> Has anyone does this before on a 30MK I?  Any suggestions/anything I should 
>> know before I embark on this project?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> Ryan
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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Stus-List Old C factories on Google Street View

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,

Just figured I'd share these.  I was doing a bit of research into my boat's
history and did a Google Street view search for the site of the old
Niagara-On-The-Lake C factory where many of our boats were built.  This
appears to be it.  A little sad looking these days.  The official address
was 526 Regent Street, Niagara-On-The-Lake, ON.

https://www.google.com/maps/@43.2477103,-79.0798583,3a,75y,46.89h,80.32t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo1.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D69.186577%26pitch%3D0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1


And this appears to be the Rhode Island plant where some of the later C's
were built.

https://www.google.com/maps/@41.5370326,-71.2796595,3a,37.5y,238.05h,82.17t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sQtO33RcgRe2XAgGkFTZWzA!2e0!7i13312!8i6656



Ryan
S/V Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30 MK I
Hull #377
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Re: Stus-List Old C factories on Google Street View

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Jeez... who knows.  I'm not sure what the laws were in Canada at that time,
but here in the States much of the environmental legislation that regulated
that type of thing was passed around or after when my boat was built
('75).  I know my Atomic 4 would be much happier running on leaded gas...

Ryan
S/V Nobody's Bargain
1976 C 30 MK I
Hull #377


On Mon, Feb 1, 2016 at 3:26 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> you're right, doesn't look like much nowadays...I wonder how they
> handled all the waste products from construction considering they used
> a lot of polyester resin and solvents at that place
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2016 at 3:45 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > Hey everyone,
> >
> > Just figured I'd share these.  I was doing a bit of research into my
> boat's
> > history and did a Google Street view search for the site of the old
> > Niagara-On-The-Lake C factory where many of our boats were built.  This
> > appears to be it.  A little sad looking these days.  The official address
> > was 526 Regent Street, Niagara-On-The-Lake, ON.
> >
> >
> https://www.google.com/maps/@43.2477103,-79.0798583,3a,75y,46.89h,80.32t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo1.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D69.186577%26pitch%3D0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1
> >
> >
> > And this appears to be the Rhode Island plant where some of the later
> C's
> > were built.
> >
> >
> https://www.google.com/maps/@41.5370326,-71.2796595,3a,37.5y,238.05h,82.17t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sQtO33RcgRe2XAgGkFTZWzA!2e0!7i13312!8i6656
> >
> >
> >
> > Ryan
> > S/V Nobody's Bargain
> > 1976 C 30 MK I
> > Hull #377
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom
> > of page at:
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> >
> >
>
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Re: Stus-List Old C factories on Google Street View

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Chuck,

I certainly wasn't implying a relationship between the condition of a shuttered 
factory and our boats.  Hope it didn't come across that way.  

Just interesting to see the place where they came from.  And you're certainly 
right - the boat building business seems a tough business indeed..

> On Feb 1, 2016, at 18:51, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Ryan,
> The exterior of a boat building facility is rarely indicative of the quality 
> of the work that goes on inside.  Many Florida boat building facilities don’t 
> even have walls on the exteriors of the buildings (partially due to the heat, 
> but I think they feel that every time a hurricane comes through, they’re 
> going to lose the building so why bother with walls…).  It is also hard to 
> keep a facility looking “pretty” if you have to store hull and deck molds 
> outside and do wet layup of fiberglass indoors…
>  
> The boat building industry has suffered greatly during the upswings and 
> downturns of our economic climate over the past 50 years, from the booms of 
> the dawning of the fiberglass era, to the luxury tax disaster of the 1980’s 
> and the Great Recession of the last decade.  The number of domestic North 
> American boat manufacturers has been cut by 75% since 1980, both in the US 
> and Canada.  If you want a good insight on the industry as a whole, not just 
> sailboat OEMs but boat builders successful and not so successful, read Heart 
> of Glass by Daniel Spurr.   Dan has done quite a bit of research, especially 
> on C Yachts rise and fall, and he presents a good bit of information on how 
> boatbuilding in North America developed into the iconic industry of today. 
>  
> It is very rough to get the right mix of design innovation, management and 
> financial skills, brand and customer loyalty, and a well-trained skilled 
> workforce all at the same time and keep the team together long enough to 
> withstand the ups and downs of the world economic issues.  I’m always amused 
> when a person tells me that sailboat builders will have a good year when oil 
> and gas prices go up.  Little do they know that the same oil is  used to make 
>  the resins holding the boats together and the Dacron that goes into building 
> the sails and ropes.  When the price of oil goes up, EVERYTHING costs more 
> and only the very wealthy can afford luxury goods such as new sailing and 
> motor yachts. 
>  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1975 25 Mk1
>  
> S/V Orion (for now)
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 1, 2016 2:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Old C factories on Google Street View
>  
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Just figured I'd share these.  I was doing a bit of research into my boat's 
> history and did a Google Street view search for the site of the old 
> Niagara-On-The-Lake C factory where many of our boats were built.  This 
> appears to be it.  A little sad looking these days.  The official address was 
> 526 Regent Street, Niagara-On-The-Lake, ON. 
> 
> https://www.google.com/maps/@43.2477103,-79.0798583,3a,75y,46.89h,80.32t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo1.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D69.186577%26pitch%3D0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1
>  
> 
> And this appears to be the Rhode Island plant where some of the later C's 
> were built.
> 
> https://www.google.com/maps/@41.5370326,-71.2796595,3a,37.5y,238.05h,82.17t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sQtO33RcgRe2XAgGkFTZWzA!2e0!7i13312!8i6656
> 
>  
>  
> Ryan
> S/V Nobody's Bargain
> 1976 C 30 MK I
> Hull #377
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Yes.  By "fresh water cooled" I mean my Atomic 4 has a closed loop cooling 
system with a heat exchanger circulating a mixture of water and antifreeze 
(just like a car).  It then goes through a heat exchanger that dissipates the 
engine heat into seawater that's pumped into the exchanger.  I primarily sail 
in salt water... Hence the "fresh water cooled" description.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 30, 2016, at 16:11, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Boats without a closed loop coolant system are called “raw water cooled”.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph 
> Bognar via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2016 13:11
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joseph Bognar 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant
>  
> If your boat is fresh water cooled then it should not have anti freeze in it 
> at all . 
> 
> Sent from Joe Bognar
>  
> ___
> 
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