Re: Stus-List Boat Selling Tips

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Your price is off if no one has looked at it.

Steve


On Mon, Oct 21, 2019 at 8:54 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Jake
>
>
>
> One thing I have noticed over the years is that some boat models have a
> very specific following.  What I think really helps is when someone who
> specifically wants a C 35-3 to be matched up with your ad listing.  By
> this I mean when I Google “C 35”, “C 35-3” or similar a link to your
> boat is in the first two to three pages in the search results.
>
>
>
> List it in a LOT of places.  If possible build your own web site or blog
> that shows your boat and the features and improvements that make it more
> desirable than similar models and had lots of pictures of these.  For an
> example if Ronan was for sale (and refitted completed) anyone who had been
> following or found the blog would know that it was a great example of a C
> 37.
>
>
>
> I have always had a web site for our boats.  Initially our Niagara 26 had
> a site that was hosted as part of our Cable/Internet package (for free).
> When it was time to sell we modified the web site a little bit but kept all
> the project links, etc .. and we listed on Kijiji with a link to the web
> site.  I listed it in more areas than just Halifax as well. Full Tilt 2
> sold in November and was listed in August.  The people that bought the boat
> were specifically looking for a Niagara 26 and were considering three (one
> in Montreal, ours in Nova Scotia and a third elsewhere in Quebec).  Ours
> was the most expensive but had more of the features they wanted.
>
>
>
> Our next boat was a J/27.  From the start it also had its own web site and
> was well known to the J/27 community because of the J/27 owners group, the
> J/27 Wiki pages links to projects on this web site and other.  Googling
> J/27 for sale would put this in the top two pages of results.  We were
> lucky that the Oakville J/27 fleet was growing at that time as well and was
> also promoting J/27s.  I listed on Kijiji and with my broker.  It sold in
> less than two weeks and immediately after sold to a buyer from Oakville,
> Ontario I had another buyer who wanted it in Philadelphia and a third
> interested person that I can no longer remember.  All specifically wanted a
> J/27 and Nut Case was a very well known J/27.  The buyer of the 27
> contacted me directly and we worked out the deal and then the purchase was
> made through our broker as had been agreed.
>
>
>
> As much exposure as you can get is what helps.  We all love our boats and
> we have all made specific upgrades / maintenance that should be highlighted
> to make our individual boat stand out.
>
>
>
> If I were to be interested in your boat it would be because I wanted a C
> 35-III and not a Landfall 38.  Both are good boats but the 35-III is a very
> good performing boat and one that I remember from when the model was new
> and they had the Labatt’s Challenge in Canada.
>
>
>
> We are now on our 4th boat. Persistence.  It too has its own web page but
> the hosting is no longer free.  I believe is $2.99 / month via Blue Host.
> The link is below.  Sadly our season has just ended and the mast comes down
> for the season today
>
>
>
> Anyway …
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
>
> Halifax, Nova Scotia
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Jake
> Brodersen via CnC-List
> *Sent:* October 20, 2019 11:11 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* captain_j...@cox.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Boat Selling Tips
>
>
>
> *Hi guys,*
>
> *I’ve been lurking for quite some time, but still have an interest for
> this great group.  Having purchased a larger cruising boat last year
> (Bavaria 44), I have tried for over a year to sell my 1986 C Mk-III.  I
> initially tried to sell it myself.  I listed it on Craigslist, advertised
> on the FSBO web site (for sale by owner), and spread the word through my
> local sailors.*
>
> *When summer turned to fall and no action, I enlisted a reputable local
> broker to list my boat.  After listing it on Yacht World for over a year,
> we have yet to have a single buyer interested enough to even come take a
> look at it.  *
>
> *The boat is well equipped for racing and cruising and comes with a ton of
> equipment.  I’ve dropped the price over $10K and still no interest.  What
> does it take to sell a boat these days?  Any suggestions would be
> appreciated.*
>
> *Thanks,*
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *1986 C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

If this is what you want:

"I just want a boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in."

For 25k, what I would be focusing on is a bare bones boat - forget about
water makers, solar panels, and the rest of it. That's just like, my
opinion, man. So take it for what it's worth. I would avoid that boat at
all costs, though I do love the MKII. You can cruise without that stuff,
it's all just "nice to haves". Add as you can down the road. Get a
seaworthy boat with solid rigging, no soft decks, good sails and a well
maintained engine - done. Out here on the Lakes there are a lot of racing
boats, they are hit or miss. Some of them are raced hard and put away wet,
others are raced hard and very well cared for. I would look for the latter.

Steve



On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 11:04 AM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> FYI.
>
> All those power take-offs incrementally reduce the usable HP of the
> engine, presumable sized with one take off, not four.
>
> I chose a 80 amp alternator upgrade in lieu of a 110 amp as I was told by
> Balmar that it might be more relative HP (10%) than you want to lose.  Many
> of our power-plants were not sized on the high side to begin with.
>
> And my only experience with a Pathfinder diesel was not good.
>
> Any boat that gives you a vibe like that...run.  Imagine the stuff/poor
> workmanship you cant see?
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:54 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>
> Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week
> and decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based
> mainly on the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the
> 70s molded headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the
> dodger, etc). That weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had
> a feel for the interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am
> changing my opinion of the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some
> boats with the drop-down, I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker
> when not needed.
>
> Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous
> owner:
>
> - water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and
> installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level
> - engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not
> sure how it is engaged/disengaged
> - dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4 pulleys
> off the crank
> - solar panels over cockpit aft on very heavy aluminum I-beams, room for 4
> panels and 6x 6V batteries
> - solent rig with dual furlers, apparently properly braced below deck,
> although I didn't verify
> - huge anchor and roller, along with stainless bow eye in hull - he didn't
> want anchor to slip I guess. Possibly it was on a mooring buoy so the bow
> eye would make sense.
>
> Although some things looked to be fairly well installed, others did not:
> - poorly finished plywood battery box in port lazarette, along with refrig
> unit covered in rust (probably not a marine grade unit)
> - possibly the most annoying were all the holes in the molded headliner,
> with exposed wiring junctions, etc. I assume some of the wiring is captive
> so he decided to start cutting small holes. That and the holes for the
> dodger mounting made it look like swiss cheese. Is the wiring that
> difficult to upgrade up there? I'd probably try to cover the headliner with
> panels of white and teak to hide all this, since I'm not a fan of molded
> liners.
>
> The main problem with this boat is that even with all these 'upgrades' in
> the past 2-3 years, everything from a safety standpoint (at a minimum)
> becomes suspect to me based on the evidence of questionable workmanship
> quality. The fact that the VW diesel injection pump was off being repaired
> was another red flag. I know these engines very well, having rebuilt
> several, and the injection pumps are bullet proof. Only two things will
> cause this type of failure: bad fuel, and someone messing with them. My van
> has an '86 engine with the original pump and >600k kms. It developed a leak
> this year, but has otherwise been trouble free.
>
> It is a shame, because it seems like a solid boat, and the current owner
> is a very nice guy, but I have too many projects already. I just want a
> boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 2:56 PM Shawn Wright 
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat
> for someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in
> recent upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like
> to see, and there is a bit too much complexity in 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I was really focused on rough weather performance when I was shopping but
the reality was much different. After some foolhardy excursions we chose
not to sail in rough conditions, it wasn't fun. Out there on the West coast
you might not have the choice all the time. This is something I would
consider more carefully next time I buy. We're coastal cruisers, most
anything will do if you pay attention to the weather. I would take that
Westsnail completely off the list.

The CS 36T is a fabulous boat, that's on my short list for next. But I love
C, and they're cheaper.

Steve



On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 7:04 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Try looking at a 34.  Love ours.  We are second owner and had her for 20
> years.  Great in all conditions excels in light air.  Well built.
> Traditional layout that just works well.  Large enough for hot water, stove
> with oven, etc.  Easily handled by couple.  Cruise 4 very comfortably.
> Normally have Yanmar diesels.  Later builds with (80 to 82) have better
> interiors
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rod
> Stright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 10, 2019 5:19 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rod Stright
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>
>
>
> In my view, although older, the C 35 Mark 2 is a great all round boat.
> We won our class in the Marblehead to Halifax Ocean race in light airs, and
> on the trip down in strong headwinds and rough seas, the flare forward kept
> the bow from submarining into the waves when much larger boats couldn’t
> cope and had to motor sail much slower.  The flare also deflected the waves
> back down into the sea making for a much dryer ride than other boats.  A
> lot of room below compared to the 35 mark 1 (3 feet longer on the waterline
> as I recall).  Very well built hull, decks may have some soft spots but
> overall they seem to have stood up fairly well.
>
>
>
> Good luck!!
>
>
>
> Rod Stright
>
> C 99
>
> Halifax
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot via CnC-List
> *Sent:* January-10-19 5:55 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>
>
>
> Have you used the sailing calculator under technical info on the cncphoto
> album site. It allows u to compare boats by the numbers. I have found it
> very useful
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 12:59 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>
> Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings
> around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and
> walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island,
> that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard.
> There are new private listings starting to appear every day now, but
> nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what
> I want yet, so the boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and
> usually just out of my price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS
> 36T. The CS 36T I have not been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby,
> and the interior photos I've seen look great, but it's about double my
> budget, so I'm now considering the CS 30, but they are much less common
> here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is usually asking too much, like
> $30K+. I even looked at Catalina 30...
>
>
>
> The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker says
> it's because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, so he
> won't drop the price...
>
> There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more common
> that Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.
>
>
>
> I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I
> have only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a must.
> Trouble is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle rough seas
> that we will sea at times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that
> usually means at least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K CAD.
>
>
>
> But I am learning at lot along the way. :)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their boats is my advice.
>
>
>
> This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a hatchback I was selling
> recently. The guy drove over a

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their boats is my advice.

This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a hatchback I was selling
recently. The guy drove over an hour out to the countryside where we live
to look at the car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up fitting
how he liked. He would have saved both of us a lot of time if he had just
gone to a used car lot and done his decision making there. Likewise, you
can learn a lot walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or
calling on brokers and seeing their boats. Those folks are literally paid
to show boats. Get your short list figured out, buy the first boat that
meets your requirements and price point. Go sailing.

For what it's worth. This is why I priced my boat low when I sold it, and
went through a broker. Quick sale, and only the serious buyers will make
the effort. First guy who looked at it, bought it. Had to rip the bandage
off, it was a hard decision.

Sorry if my earlier message sounded full of crankitude - I'm boatless, and
jealous :)

If you're looking at boats in those size ranges, I REALLY loved my C 32.
And they tend to be priced lower for whatever reason, they're not great
PHRF boats and it seems around here that's what matters. They are a great
handling, and sailing boat that one can cruise on in comfort, though. Mine
was a 1980, later ones came with diesels, mine had an A4. Purchased for
18k, sold for 25k five years later (and many, many boat bucks of investment
and hours of work later - and cruises all over Lake Ontario and Georgian
Bay). I sold a turn-key boat with new sails, solar panels, electrical,
plumbing, etc etc etc.

FWIW

Steve


On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 5:57 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat
> for someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in
> recent upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like
> to see, and there is a bit too much complexity in the engine compartment,
> with dual alternators, watermaker, etc. Having now been on two 35s, I can
> say that it is still a contender on our list though. The owner is motivated
> to sell, so if you're interested, I can pass along his contact info.
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:30 AM Shawn Wright 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the info. Going to look at the boat today, so I will
>> report back. I was invited on board another '74 35 mk2 yesterday, after
>> viewing a Catalina (am I allowed to say that here...?) 30 and a CS 27.
>> Needless to say, I preferred the C, and it just made me more curious
>> about Callisto. If the work done appears to be well executed and not a hack
>> job. Will report back...
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Agree on condition and will add that it’s well Worth paying a bit more
>>> for a boat with recent upgrades, esp if they are the upgrades you’d make
>>> anyway.  (The Bimini you’d buy anyway is effectively  free in a used
>>> boat).
>>> 35-2 was on my shortlist when I bought my 33-2.
>>> Vs Toronto area Price seems a bit high (as you’d expect from any seller)
>>> but cash is king  he’s seeking reasonable offers.
>>> Looks like the boat has already been equipped for the uses you have
>>> planned, and that hard dodger may be perfect for what you want, especially
>>> if you can steer from there, sitting in the companionway.  (Under power Via
>>> autopilot)
>>> Curious about the twin furler mod and how the stays are supported.
>>> Good luck!
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Jan 5, 2019, at 9:58 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Condition is everything, and that is not a high price for a reasonably
>>> well-equipped boat in good condition, especially in BC where prices are
>>> generally higher, most likely due to the absurd cost of housing.
>>> >
>>> > Steve Thomas
>>> > C 27MKIII
>>> > C 36
>>> >
>>> >  Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> > Hello,
>>> >
>>> > I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am
>>> > curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability
>>> for
>>> > coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver
>>> Island.
>>> > Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:
>>> >
>>> > Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
>>> > VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
>>> > Watermaker
>>> > Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well
>>> built).
>>> >
>>> > The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
>>> > https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178
>>> >
>>> > Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.
>>> >
>>> > Thanks
>>> >
>>> > --
>>> > Shawn Wright
>>> > shawngwri...@gmail.com
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I like the MKII and I love C as much as any on this list, but he's not
going to get 30k for that boat. I wouldn't pay 20k for that boat based on
that ad.
It's listed since the summer and it's not sold, it's now winter. Private
seller? How many times do you think he wants to show that boat?

"Contact me for more details and photos." - <-- that right there is a
non-starter for me.

He thinks he's going to save time answering the same inquiries over and
over again? Not likely. He's waiting for a buyer that doesn't know what
questions to ask. That ad is missing a tonne of detail and to me, that's a
clear indication of a time waster. I think people sell boats privately
because they don't like the things they hear from brokers, namely, the
market price of their 45 year old boat.

My opinion is worth what you paid for it and no offence intended for anyone
on this list. I've been around this block a couple of times now, on both
ends.

Look at broker boats, if you haven't already. I would forego the luxuries
entirely with your budget and focus on an updated motor, rigging, a dry
deck and solid mast step. If you can get a 35 mkII with the above and no
other "frills", I would call that a good deal at 25k. Solar, batteries and
cruising niceties can be added as you go, and then you get new stuff, that
you know how to maintain. The boat in the ad is a project boat. If it
weren't, he'd be bragging about all the hoses he replaced and how new the
 the? See my point? 45 year old rod rigging on salt water? Marinized VW
in a C? That's a replacement motor, last I checked C wasn't putting VWs
in their boats. This owner didn't put in a Beta, or a Yanmar - he put in a
used, marinized VW. He doesn't want to pay commission. Too many warning
signs for my tastes.

But it's got a water maker! never mind that noise

I like the MKII. I hope you find one, and that it serves you well.
Fair winds.
Steve


On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 2:39 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Russ,
>
> Thanks for the reply. It has been listed since the summer, and he seems to
> be dropping the price; I know he is motivated, but it's still a bit beyond
> my budget, and moorage will cost a bit more than the 30' boats I've been
> looking at.
>
> I'm very familiar with VW diesels, currently own two, and have had many
> since the 80s. Not sure how access is since the engine is larger than the
> A4, and economy is probably not as good as a 2-3 cyl Yanmar, although
> tuning the IP might help. Just don't see many marine VWs so not sure how
> they fare in this application - the blocks are bulletproof, but not sure
> about the marine components, manifold/exchanger, raw water pump etc. Sounds
> like it may be a custom job also, so if parts are non-standard that could
> be an issue.
>
> I'll probably arrange to see it, and report back. I'm just trying to get
> the most solid boat I can for about $20-25k CAD, so boats that don't have
> what I need/want (cockpit enclosure for winter is one), or have a bunch of
> stuff I don't need, will mean that I must pay more, or allow for additional
> costs to add things.
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:18 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Shawn,
>>
>> The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.
>>
>> Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising with solar panels, water
>> maker and Solent jib. The Solent jib is a good choice for short-handed
>> cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it can't be moved aft (not
>> practical with the furler on it). The dodger is okay and most coastal
>> cruiser like them. I don't as a personal preference (mostly 'cause they're
>> ugly and impair good visibility while sailing.
>>
>> No stability issues with any of that, or the big honking anchor on the
>> bow. And you will sleep well in a blow. :)
>>
>> The older marinized VW diesels are known for cracked head issues but
>> since it is only operating at 50% load at max (check the prop size) it
>> likely doesn't get hot enough to suffer at the head, but continuos running
>> at low load can lead to carbon buildups (sticky rings & valve problems).
>>
>> For a well found cruiser that appears ready to go I think $30 grand is a
>> bargain.
>>
>> Cheers, Russ
>> ex-* Sweet*, 35 mk-1
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> At 08:27 AM 1/4/2019, you wrote:
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am
>> curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability for
>> coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver Island.
>> Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:
>>
>> Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
>> VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
>> Watermaker
>> Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).
>>
>> The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
>> 

Stus-List El Faro

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Not C related, but certainly maritime related - dramatic story about the
El Faro, a 1970s container ship that was lost at sea on October 1st, 2015
in Hurricane Joaquin:
https://www.vanityfair.com/news/2018/04/inside-el-faro-the-worst-us-maritime-disaster-in-decades

Hope all you C'ers are well.

Steve
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 40 Peregrine for sale

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

She's beautiful, Andy. Congratulations!

Steve


On Tue, Dec 12, 2017 at 8:27 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All that comes to mind is WOW!
>
> Dave J
> Saltaire 35 M3
> Bristol, RI
>
>
> On Dec 11, 2017, at 7:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Ya done good.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 4:04 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> So here's the last post I'll make about selling Peregrine. She is really
>> in quite brilliant condition. Check the web site:
>>
>> https://aburtonsailor.wixsite.com/peregrine
>>
>> To those who asked just what it took to get me to part with my beloved
>> C, here she is:
>>
>> http://www.nautorswanusaeast.com/boat-for-sale/baltic-47-momentum
>>
>> As long as the survey goes well she's mine. Now I just need to do to the
>> new boat everything I've done to Peregrine and a little more!
>>
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> --
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett Ave
>> Newport, RI
>> USA 02840
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> phone  +401 965 5260
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List A-4

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I paid $300 CND for an unknown condition A4 - it was not seized and I was
planning on a rebuild. I don't have a boat anymore, but still have the
motor and some parts I purchased for it. I'm hoping to sell it with the
parts for the $300 I paid for the motor alone.

FWIW

Steve
Boatless in Mono, ON Canada


On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 1:31 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Randy,
> I live in Seattle and have been dealing with Moyer Marine for many years
> and the long distance relationship has not been an issue. I have purchased
> two A4's from them (one was a short block and the other a rebuild) and
> returned two core engines. I very much believe in these guys and I would
> suggest you call Don and ask him if he's interested and what arrangements
> can be made.
> Good luck,
> Dave.
> SLY C 33
> 1975
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 13, 2017, at 9:09 AM, randy via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Thanks Danny, and that was my suggestion to them as well.  Am hoping to
> offer them something in lieu of east coast!
>
>
>
>
>
> randy
>
> Tamanawas
>
> 29-II
>
> Hood River, OR
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, November 13, 2017 8:31 AM
> *To:* randy via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* Danny Haughey 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List A-4
>
>
>
> Hi Randy,
>
> the engine has some value.  Without knowing it's condition, you could
> probably get a few  hundred for it from someone wanting a spare and the
> motivation to rebuild it.  I'm sure Moyer marine would love to have it but
> they'd probably not offer much more than to pay for shipping to take it off
> your hands.
>
> You could head over the Moyer marine forums and get better info from that
> group.
>
> http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/index.php
>
> Danny
>
> On 11/13/2017 10:59 AM, randy via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Greetings All, a friend is settling a family estate of a sailor.  Friend
> and family know nothing about sailboats.  Boat has an older Yanmar 2GM
> installed sometime in last seven years, and the original A-4 is at the
> house.  From outside it is in much better condition than expected, but no
> one has any idea of inside.  Any suggestions on value and/or getting the
> word out?  Motor is located in Portland, OR, and neither Portland or
> Seattle craigslist have much to offer.
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
>
>
> randy
>
> Tamanawas
>
> 29-II
>
> Hood River, OR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Big Boat on my property C 33 mk1

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I would post it on craigslist and other places as "Make an offer, must be
gone by xxx date".

Do you have a date in mind? Sounds like you're in a rush. Getting that boat
off the property will cost someone money, it's difficult to sell a boat in
that condition, in a hurry, anyway. If you're giving it away someone may
pony up the money to get transport arranged.

Good luck.

Steve
Formerly, C 32 Suhana


On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 3:12 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joe,
> The original 33s are great boats we still have ours and love her. For us,
> she both cruises and races well. Old IOR design creates some challenges
> with the spinnaker in a blow but you can learn to deal with that. From our
> prospective she is the right size for a couple.
> Hope you find a buyer. If she still has her Atomic 4 gas engine many
> potential buyers may see that as a negative but we just replaced our old
> Atomic 4 with a rebuilt one from Moyer Marine. Don Moyer is the man for
> these engines and has a great website where he sells endless parts, a
> complete repair and rebuild manual and rebuilt engines with new heads and
> manifolds and if you want to pay a bit more he even sells "rebuilt" engines
> with new blocks.
> Good luck on finding a buyer.
> Regards,
> Dave. Kaseler
> 1975 C 33
> SLY
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Aug 30, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Joseph Kramer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Like many dreams in life they come and then fade.
> > "Benefit" was the dream come true for me. "Risk" our first boat
> adventure did result in a benefit that still lasts, which is the reality of
> life together with my wife.
> > So I have this fading dream boat that is fading as fast as I am.
> > The issue is I have this boat on jack stands on my property in the
> middle of Chatham county NC.
> > I am seeking advice...
> > This is a project boat.
> > Like many dreams sometimes there are others that have that same
> delusional dream. But, not really very many people have this dream for this
> 33ft aging beauty.
> > I am seeking advice on the best way as quickly as possible,..remove this
> fading classic...
> > Any dreamers???
> > OK how about pragmatists.
> > thanks
> > Joe
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

We kept an 8' zodiac on our foredeck on the 32, no trouble. We even hoisted
it up there while under way (we always used the spare jib halyard). Towing
sucks :)

Steve
Formerly: C 32 Suhana



On Wed, Aug 16, 2017 at 2:35 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think if I had to get a dinghy onboard to travel, I might get one of
> these:
>
> http://www.boatstogo.com/inflatable-boat-am365.asp
>
>
>
> They look pretty good for the price
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ronald
> B. Frerker via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 16, 2017 12:37 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck
>
>
>
> You could probably sail with it up front, but you'd need to have a high
> clewed jib to make it more feasible.
>
> Ron
>
> Wild Cheri
>
> C 30-1
>
> STL
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* john wright via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* john wright 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 15, 2017 2:00 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck
>
>
>
> Thanks. I agree, my thinking is that it will be towed while under sail.
> Its an Acorn Tender and they tow very well.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2017, at 2:33 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Barient 28 Winches

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I have a pair, they are in good shape. I got them from someone on
Craigslist years ago thinking I would use them and never did.

They are not self-tailing.

Make an offer off-list if you are interested. Located in Toronto and too
big to ship.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop compter

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Why complicate things? Get a nice laptop and find a 12V cigarette lighter
style adapter for it.
A TV will offer poor resolution and image quality in general.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 7:55 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you haven't played with a Raspberry Pi they are pretty incredible.
> Cheap and powerful.  Multi boot but native linux.  $35 and the run
> OpenCPN.  You can find all manner of 12v HDMI screens that it will drive.
>
> Or just go get a laptop with 12v charger.
>
> I still need to look at the compustick.
>
> Josh
>
> On Nov 2, 2016 3:38 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I'd like to have a windows machine on board to run OpenCPN, surf the web
>> etc.
>>
>> I'm thinking of using a 12 volt TV that I can mount and an Intel
>> ComputeStick CS-325.  Add a 12 volt to USB converter, BT keyboard/mouse and
>> external hard drive.
>>
>> Thoughts/recommendations?
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

We've cruised with an iPad .. well, on all our cruises. Two to three weeks
each time. We stow it when the weather is bad but we don't really do much
sailing when the weather is bad, we have that choice being lake sailors.

I also own a helm mounted chartplotter that we got at the start of this
year. I use both. But the iPad is better in a lot of ways to be honest.

I like my Asus built "Google Nexus". It has built in GPS and it's 7". Like
Marek says, it's a nice size for handling and they are not expensive. The
only reason we use the iPad instead of it is because I cracked the screen
(boat related actually, but much more to do with my carelessness than
marine conditions). I think a Surface is overkill for your application. Use
the voice recognition for writing emails, forget about keyboards :)

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 8:22 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Before I went on my cruise to the Bahamas I researched tablets for
> waterproofness.  Only Sony advertised their tablet as water.  I'm not
> naive, I do not believe it to be truly water proof but splash proof yes. So
> I mounted the Sony at the helm on a home made mount.  I also carry an IPad,
> laptop, and Raymarine radar/chart plotter.  It's amazing how many times the
> systems didn't agree on my position.
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Nov 1, 2016, at 5:49 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Am also looking for the right tablet choice - i use two ipad airs today,
> have played with a laptop, and my work machine - MS-surface pro4.
>
> Will respectfully and gently disagree with Marek on suitability of a
> tablet - IMO depending on the application a tablet is fine.   Not likely to
> take Windstar 'round Cape Horn.  Am part way through integrating a tablet
> with my instrumentation (with some great help from folks here) and for two
> seasons have used an ipad, ram mount and lifeproof case.  Smashed one ipad
> season 1, (it was in my backpack, which took a tumble belowdecks) bought
> the case, then the mount.  None of it cheap, but it's good stuff.  Ram
> mount means I can choose multiple locations.   Under the bimini, in the
> case, and on the mount, many of the tablet's shortcomings are overcome, and
> it's fine and reliable for Great Lakes daysailing and cruising.   I like
> its portability, versatility,  being able to jump between apps, tether to
> my phone, etc, and can update, upgrade or replace anything relatively
> inexpensively.  (I have two ipads actually, and keep both onboard.  Have
> also downloaded the chartplotter app to my iphone.)I like that I do not
> need a large pod and upgraded rail at the helm - It's crowded and costly
> enough.
>
> Details, rambling discourses, and a few toned-down rants here:
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html
>
> Still issues to resolve with using the iPad.  It does many things well but
> does not play 100% well with other applications.   Windows seems obvious
> but I agree with Marek on the windows tablets, - if you get one, you
> must get a good one.  Was ready to buy and after investigation I decided
> against it.  (so far)   I have a surface pro 4 for work, works fine with a
> few maddening quirks, but it is expensive, seems fragile, and the power
> connection is definitely designed for on-the-desk use..  Also agree with
> Marek on the smaller tablets - handier.   The ipad air especially the
> MS-Surface are both very non-ergonomic in the hands, and easy to drop as
> you know.   The lifeproof case helps this.   Whatever you get, make sure
> you can also get a good case and mount.   Agreed also on the BT keyboard.
> IF you want a weatherproof and rugged case you will not have an attached
> keyboard.
>
> Without a GPS receiver you can always get a dongle (fragile) or bluetooth
> type.  Google "Bad elf" or Garmin GLO.  I have the latter and it works
> fine.  Windstar has 3 GPS antennae...
>
> By using bluetooth and possibly onboard GPS you will require more frequent
> charging.   Have installed a blueseas dual USB charger at my nav station
> (handy)  but a rugged connection to power at the helm is a resolvable
> problem I have not yet resolved.
>
> Dave
>
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
> Message-ID:
>  17.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
> instrument (I have a Garmin 720 and I trust it much more (I can see the
> screen in full sunlight without problems, it is completely waterproof and I
> can operate it with keys (not touch)), but I find that if you want a tablet
> for anything you are much better off with 

Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Mid ship cleat? What's that?!!

You guys don't actually sail C, do you?!!

(I use the primary winch as a spring. Not quite "mid ship" but works almost
as well for snugging up to the dock)

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto



On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 8:32 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> “Short spring from amidships” is more properly called a breast line. And
> that is ALWAYS the first line over when I bring the 72’ schooner I captain
> into a dock (or a slip).
>
>
>
> The fact that you know and use the process indicates to me that you are a
> competent skipper, Joe.
>
>
>
> I am often amused – and occasionally terrified – to watch the captains –
> even experienced captains of larger boats – who just seem to insist on
> approaching the dock from 45 to 90 degrees, and then getting a bow line
> over.
>
>
>
> I’ve tried to explain the process to I-don’t-know-how-many small boat
> skippers over the past 4 years, but they just don’t seem to grasp that once
> the breast line is attached to the dock (or a piling), you can use power to
> pull the boat snug to the dock and set fore and aft springs to position the
> boat, and power against the springs to pull the bow and stern in against
> any combination of wind and current.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Della
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 27, 2016 4:52 PM
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill
>
>
>
> Use a short spring from amidships. You can hold the boat on with forward
> or reverse as needed.
>
> I use this with great effect when parallel parking singlehanded.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

No love for the backing turn? I'm far from a salty boat handling guy but I
can turn Suhana in her boat length with no way on. I thought this was
common practise. Lots of prop walk. No need to turn the wheel at all. All
done with the throttle. I'm a big fan.

Now, boat handling in tight conditions with the wind up - different story,
not nearly as brave am I.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 11:57 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One of my local redneck friends says the 10oz beers are easier to do the
> maths with!
>
> Josh
>
> On Oct 27, 2016 11:49 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> There’s money to be made and lots of 10oz Buds to drink. (10 oz Buds for
>>> those of you not on the Chesapeake, are sold here (I think only) – don’t
>>> ask why, but they are popular)…
>>
>>
>>
>> 10 oz and even 7 oz can drinks are popular in hot climates.  If you don't
>> drink a 12 oz quickly enough the last 2 ounces is hot and not particularly
>> refreshing.  Hence the smaller cans.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Iv'e got two headsails from Rolly Tasker dealing with the factory in
Thailand now and I'm very happy with both. I got the "offshore cruising"
sails. So I didn't get their cheapest.

Local lofts wanted twice. I'm of the opinion that a sailboat owner needs to
do as much of their own work aboard their boat - this includes measuring
for sails. You really don't need a professional to do this for you. Unless
you have deep pockets and want every last ounce of performance. Queue the
racers...

No doubt you may get features you did not even consider but I live in
ignorant bliss and still have money in my pocket.

Precision wanted more money for the same features and while pleasant, were
very aggressive. When I asked them if they could get me a sail in x amount
of time, they said not at any price, just not possible. I told them that
Rolly could get me one in that timeframe from Thailand but I would prefer
to deal with a 'local' loft (which I was really considering, especially in
light of the CAD/USD - Rolly deals in USD). They said, "If you're ok with a
generic sail and we can't dissuade you, that loft makes batches of the same
sails and then sells them as custom". They went on to admonish them some
more and were actually quite nasty about it, "if you're ok with a crappy
sail" kind of attitude. I was like, "Oh really?" and promptly never spoke
to them again. I don't mind some competition, but badmouthing the
competition and belittling your customers is just bad business.

And guess what? My custom sail from Thailand arrived exactly on time for my
summer cruise this year. I saved money AND I got it faster. It's a nice
sail, to boot.

I'm like you. We pleasure sail and cruise only. All I know is I can achieve
optimal sail trim with my new sails on my old boat, that's good enough for
me.
I have a 155 and a 115. Same exact design, just different surface area. No
foam luff, crosscut 'offshore' dacron sails, I change sails to suit the
conditions and try not to furl to reef, I hate it.

At the end of the day I want good sails that will last. I think Rolly's
sails are at the top of the price/performance spectrum - you can spend more
money but with diminishing returns.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I use stabilizer and don't bother running the carb dry. I don't know if I
buy that bit of logic anyway because the bowl doesn't empty just because
you run the carb "dry". There's still fuel in there, that's my layman's
understanding, anyway. So I stick to the K.I.S.S principle and don't mess
with running the fuel lines dry. Marvel Myster Oil in the spark plugs
before winter is an excellent suggestion, I do that too - then I hand crank
a few times to circulate the oil.
So far I've never had any issues with the old A4. It gets new plugs, new
ignition components and fresh oil more than regularly.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto



On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 9:02 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I had an A4, I would typically just pull the hose off the through
> hull and stick it in a jug of glycol, start the engine and let it run until
> I saw it at the exhaust..  I'd usually do another gallon after it started
> coming out the exhaust.  easy peasy!  You DO NOT want to add pressure to
> the intake side if you're still connected at the exhaust without the engine
> running.  You will push water into the engine.  It is best to use the
> engine's usual working condition to pull the glycol through.  If you have a
> thermostat, run the engine on fresh water until it warms up.  You can just
> run a hose into a bucket and suck the water through the same way you would
> with the glycol.  With a thermostat that will only take a few minutes.
>
> This is exactly the same way I do my current diesel engine.
>
> Moyer also suggests pulling the plugs and adding some marvel mystery oil
> to each cylinder.  He also recommends running some MMO in the gas.
>
> Remember to cut the gas valve and run the engine out of gas or fog it or
> something so that gas isn't sitting in the bowl all winter.
>
> Danny
>
> On 10/11/2016 7:24 AM, Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List wrote:
>
> My first haul-out with a new-to-me 1980 C with an Atomic 4 as well. I
> like the idea of using the shop-vac to blow the water out. Do you connect
> that to the same location - at water intake hose disconnected from seacock ?
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
> *From: *Josh Muckley 
> *Subject: **Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4*
> *Date: *October 10, 2016 at 10:27:53 PM EDT
> *To: *"C List" 
>
>
> You can plumb in auxiliary suctions that will let you draw glycol straight
> out of the jug.  If you haul the boat you can stuff a tygon hose up the
> through hull and beer bong the glycol into the engine.  Or you can try the
> seaflush.  I have one and it works, though it might be a bit over priced.
> I like using the shop vac to blow the water out.  That may actually be
> sufficient.   I am cautious though and carefully consider the possibility
> of stagnant loops of water.  So, despite "blowing out"  the engine, I also
> run glycol.  The nice thing is that I don't have to worry as much about the
> water diluting the glycol.  It takes way less glycol to provide freeze
> protection.
>
> http://www.seaflush.com/sea-flush-1/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Oct 10, 2016 9:50 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> My first haul-out with my 30-1 (purchased in January) is coming up in a
>> few weeks, sadly. The PO advised me to just run antifreeze through the
>> raw-water cooling system until it comes out the exhaust.  My main question
>> is how to get the antifreeze into the raw water intake.  I've seen a gadget
>> made from a toilet plunger with a garden hose plumbed into the rubber cone,
>> that can be held over the raw water intake with the other end of the hose
>> in a bucket of antifreeze.  Any other recommended techniques?  Any other
>> general tips on properly winterizing an A4?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Randy
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I just disconnect the intake hose from the seacock and stick it into a
bottle of antifreeze. I'm running without thermostat however so it's
simple. If you're new with the A4 a great resource is moyer marine. The
forums there are really helpful.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 9:49 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My first haul-out with my 30-1 (purchased in January) is coming up in a
> few weeks, sadly. The PO advised me to just run antifreeze through the
> raw-water cooling system until it comes out the exhaust.  My main question
> is how to get the antifreeze into the raw water intake.  I've seen a gadget
> made from a toilet plunger with a garden hose plumbed into the rubber cone,
> that can be held over the raw water intake with the other end of the hose
> in a bucket of antifreeze.  Any other recommended techniques?  Any other
> general tips on properly winterizing an A4?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
>
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>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Patrick, I have to chime in for Apple here - and not speaking to the iPhone
7 because I haven't been paying attention and I'm an Android guy, but there
is no "hardware lock in" with Apple. "Ecosystem" lock in, absolutely. You
get the iPhone so you're locked to their App store - yes. This is also true
for Android. There are benefits and there are drawbacks, but hardware lock
in - no. They use all the same ports everyone else uses these days. I'm a
Windows, Linux and Mac guy ... Someone wants to take my macbook? - from my
cold dead hands!

The XPS laptops and that come close in industrial design these days - they
have that nice edge display. But it's still Windows and well, Windows was
my first, but it's a total kludge fest compared to the UI in OSX. I use
both, every day and once upon a time, back in the OS9 days, I made fun of
the mac guys.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Sep 20, 2016 at 7:32 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I agree with you. If I had known Raymarine's love of proprietary,
> lock-you-in, charge-as-much-as-they-please techniques, I probably wouldn't
> have bought an i70 and wind instrument.  (It's pretty astounding how much
> they charge per foot for a backbone cable, and even the little plastic caps
> you use to terminate it)
>
> I can see how for some people that aspect isn't that important though,
> there are other things to consider like hardware quality and reliability.
>
> Being in the software industry it was just amazing to see the effort
> Raymarine has made to maintain incompatibility / closed systems. In
> software if you have a common transfer protocol that companies are building
> their own proprietary things on top of, it's either intentional or
> incompetence. Raymarine doesn't seem incompetent so I have to conclude it's
> intentional.
>
> Apple is actually a good example of a software company that uses similar
> proprietary lock-in techniques to create a closed system. Just take for
> example their proprietary charging port and the latest iphone decision to
> remove an open standard (audio jack) in favor of a closed standard (Apple
> charging port with proprietary audio jack adapter).
>
> People that go Apple are deciding that paying a premium for equivalent
> hardware is worth it for whatever benefits they believe they get out of it
> (ex, better UX design?). With Apple it's not as bad though because they at
> least try to make things easier for the consumer.
>
> The good news is I think software updates to an i70 are much less
> important than updates to a chartplotter. Wind algorithms don't change that
> often, and I'm basically happy with the UI. Charts and charting UI do
> change often. My three Android devices cost less than a Raymarine MFD and
> provide triple redundancy.
>
> -Patrick
> S/V Violet Hour, Seattle, WA
> C LF38
>
> On Tue, Sep 20, 2016 at 9:00 AM,  wrote:
>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Dave S 
>> To: "C Stus List" 
>> Cc:
>> Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2016 11:47:59 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and
>> Joel,
>>
>> That's pretty much the nut of it, there is not the same critical mass or
>> informed user base as with  mainstream mobile computing, (and this IS
>> mobile computing) and today, the tradeoff exists between the benefits (many
>> contrived) of single-brand solutions, and the benefits of a more open
>> approach.  Still, they have to strategize about their new competition - a
>> $50, full featured chartplotter,   (yes, in a relatively fragile device) on
>> technologies with very short (relatively) life cycles and blistering
>> innovation rates.   Amazing really.
>>
>> I dealt with the fragility issues by buying a lifeproof case and RAM
>> mount.  Pretty rugged stuff, and fine for my application - summer sailing
>> on Lake Ontario.
>>
>> I differ a bit on the software upgrade opinion - as with cars this could
>> be a safety and liability issue for the manufacturers.   If they make it
>> unreasonably difficult, they have a problem.  something else for them to
>> grapple with.
>>
>> Other than chartplotters, tablet based Apps are thin on the ground so
>> far, partly because of the small market, partly the "closed shop" of the
>> major players, and - somewhat related- partly because "open" wireless N2K
>> is in its infancy, though this is changing.  The next few years will be
>> interesting!
>>
>> Dave
>>
>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Solar panels

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Lots of options and lots of info on google, you can even google "stus list:
solar panel" and find old list threads.
I did want to chime in and say that solar is the best. I am never plugged
into shore power unless we're cruising and spending a night at a marina and
that's more for the laptops, cameras, etc than it is for the boat. We don't
have a lot of demand (no fridge, AC, etc) so our little 65 watt panel does
us well. Consistently over 3 amps, 3.5 max, it's located on top of the
bimini. Two Trojan T-105s make up the storage. Setup serves well.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Sat, Sep 17, 2016 at 3:04 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have very similar (consistent) results, even though I am much further
> north (45 °).
>
>
>
> I have a 24 W panel and I get a maximum charging current around 1.1 -1.3
> A. My maximum charge per day is much less, but my batteries are never that
> empty. I think that the maximum I ever saw was just under 10 Wh in a day.
> This is certainly enough to keep the batteries healthy.
>
>
>
> My solar panel is a flexible one that I put on the bimini. There is always
> some shading (a least, the backstay), so the efficinecy is not the best.
>
>
>
> This is with an older model of Morningstar, but it has a digital charge
> monitor, so it tells you what is (and was) going on with the solar charging.
>
>
>
> If you use refrigeration or generally, have big power budget and big
> batteries, you need much more solar power (150 W or more).
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 17, 2016 14:02
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Solar panels
>
>
>
> Genasun is pretty much the agreed best engineered MPPT controller though
> they don't do higher current.  They have varying options for battery
> chemistry and wattage.  If genasun is what you use then you'll basically
> have to plan on one controller per panel which is great for reliability and
> redundancy but may not be so good on your pocket book.  They also don't
> have digital volt/amp/watt outputs so you'll probably want to look at
> getting one.  Genasun also offers a boost feature which allows a solar
> panel that outputs less than the battery voltage to charge the battery.
> Otherwise you'll have to ensure the panel voltage is greater than battery
> voltage and they won't start/stay charging in the morning or in the evening.
>
> Just to talk numbers for a minute.  My experience is that a 100 watt
> monocrystaline flexible panel mounted horizontally at a geographic latitude
> of 38° yields a max of 66 watts in the peek summer sun.  I get about 4 or 5
> amps peek charge current but only at peek sun.IIRC I get a cumulative
> ~900 watt-hours per day.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm trying to imagine how the pump is 7 or 8 feet from the tank. On my 32
the 30 gallon tank is located under the port side settee. Tank is located
aft in this storage space and pump is forward of tank. My boat did not
originally have a pump at all (just foot pumps). I installed a jabsco just
forward of the tank where the port is. If your tank is like mine, it can be
positioned either forward in that storage space, or aft. In it's default
orientation it's aft with port forward but I don't see why, if I needed to
do what you are doing, I couldn't just slide the tank forward and locate
the pump aft. Am I making sense? Again, not sure if your 34 is similar.

Relocating ports on these plastic tanks is expensive work. I know because I
had to have one of mine replaced.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Sliding companion way hatch. 35-3

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

This is what it looks like removed on the 32:
https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e15/924015_886637128029393_966768446_n.jpg

Hopefully that link works i pulled it from my instagram account.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List BlackWatch - C 39 - world tour

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Gotta love the 39. All the best to you!
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 9:22 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fair winds my friend!
>
> Joel
>
> On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 7:28 PM, Adam Trackracer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thought you guys might like this,  me and my girl are sailin to the South
>> Pacific and beyond on our 1973 C, took me a while to find a 39
>> (favorite c) I'll post projects and picks, ask me anything,  peace.
>>
>> Svblackwatch.wordpress.com
>>
>>
>> -
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

While charging - higher voltage (13.3 is the charge voltage I get from my
controller, too). When no sun, no charge, voltage drops.
Normal.
My charge controller shows me how many amps I'm making, which I like.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 3:24 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That is working properly. :-)
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 8/29/2016 3:21 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I installed a new 40W panel on the Enterprise last week connected through
> a Gensun charge controller (as recommended by the list.)
>
> When I got on board this weekend on a very sunny day, I found the
> batteries at 13.3 volts. Towards the end of the day, with the sun still
> out, they dropped to 12.8. I don’t know if it was due to less sun or the
> controller kicking in.
>
> Since I don’t have Fred’s knowledge (also known as Street-Smarts), does
> this all sound to be normal? Will I see charging days of over 13 volts?
> Concerned about the battery status, I checked the batteries and the water
> level in all of them were just fine.
>
> Do I have any reason to worry or is this what solar power was meant to be
> and I’ve just been missing out for all this time? I have to say — if it’s
> normal, I’m loving it.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my
cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I
didn't even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in
three coats of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another
go over the winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air
bubbles in the epoxy.

Cheers,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Grand adventure/ long distance sailing in a C

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

The Russian guy who sailed around the world is interesting. Seems like most
people (prudently so) sweat the seaworthiness, tank capacity, full or fin
keel, "blue water" or not. He paid $1500 CAD for the 35MKI that he
circumnavigated in (IIRC, believe the video is on youtube with that info).
He's got a lot of videos on youtube. He had his cat with him.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Ken Heilwell book

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Cool!
My reading list is long and this isn't a priority but I am hoping to get to
it at some point - would be curious to know what you think of it. I've
heard good things.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Aug 23, 2016 at 9:55 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Stevan, thanks for the reference on the book; I just ordered a copy...I'll
> do a review once it arrives
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -----Original Message-
> From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Tue, Aug 23, 2016 9:46 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Grand adventure/ long distance sailing in a C
>
> I was going to mention Ken Hellewell but David beat me to it. You may be
> able to identify the bow of a C 38 (not Landfall) on the cover of his
> book:
> https://www.amazon.ca/Kens-Cruising-Yacht/dp/0972749225
>
> I think it's a 38, anyway. That book has been on my wish list for a while.
> We just sailed our 32 from Killarney to Penetang - not "offshore" but 21
> hours and no land in sight for some time. It's not a big deal, but it felt
> that way to me and the lady. Boat has always proven tougher than us. We
> have no ego about the sailing anymore and I'm not afraid to admit that I am
> a fair weather sailor :)
> We pick our weather. When you're crossing an ocean you don't really get
> that luxury. We've made similar passages on Lake Ontario - the great lakes
> can be really rough, but you get to pick your weather so it's avoidable,
> most of the time. We have gotten caught out in some really scary stuff
> anyway and the boat is always tougher than we are.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Grand adventure/ long distance sailing in a C

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I was going to mention Ken Hellewell but David beat me to it. You may be
able to identify the bow of a C 38 (not Landfall) on the cover of his
book:
https://www.amazon.ca/Kens-Cruising-Yacht/dp/0972749225

I think it's a 38, anyway. That book has been on my wish list for a while.
We just sailed our 32 from Killarney to Penetang - not "offshore" but 21
hours and no land in sight for some time. It's not a big deal, but it felt
that way to me and the lady. Boat has always proven tougher than us. We
have no ego about the sailing anymore and I'm not afraid to admit that I am
a fair weather sailor :)
We pick our weather. When you're crossing an ocean you don't really get
that luxury. We've made similar passages on Lake Ontario - the great lakes
can be really rough, but you get to pick your weather so it's avoidable,
most of the time. We have gotten caught out in some really scary stuff
anyway and the boat is always tougher than we are.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller & wrenches. Where? 33-2 and others

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Good thread. My question has always been what to do with the helm seat and
wheel? I've never actually tried removing the helm seat but it sure does
*appear* like it can be removed, just not sure how, or whether it's needed
on the 32.

I keep my emergency tiller in the port side cockpit locker on the upper
shelf with the wrench taped to it. Really easy to get to, but I should
probably do a practice run.

I'm a fair weather, lake sailor, so I never really prioritized this as much
as I should.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical shopping for 33-2?

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I've purchased two head sails from rolly tasker - both directly dealing
with the main factory in Thailand. I purchased a 155% in 2013 and it's a
great sail. We're up on Georgian bay now and it's windier there than it was
here in Toronto. I ordered a 115% from them two weeks ago - it's already at
the marina waiting for me. I asked them to rush it "if they could" and
about three days after submitting payment information I got an email from
them saying it was ready to ship out. I can't say enough good things about
them. Very cost effective and the quality is really good. I haven't
actually laid eyes on the 115 yet but if it's as good as the 155 I'll be
very happy.

The local lofts couldn't get me a sail that quickly, at any price. I was in
a rush because we're leaving on a cruise tomorrow and I didn't commit to a
decision soon enough. My bad.

They shipped UPS - duties and taxes were about $240 CND - OUCH - but still
cheaper than local even with that factored in.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List mast collar straps

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I used ratcheting tie downs to pull the deck down towards the mast step -
and an OC6 crew standing on deck around the mast.
This was when I forgot to install the straps one year and only noticed days
later - the deck had "lifted" or perhaps as Steve points out, the weight of
the keel had something to do with it. In my case, halyard tension seemed to
play a role so don't forget to take the tension out of your rigging.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Derek Hatfields passes away

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I enjoyed his book immensely, then met him at the boat show and was able to
tell him how much I liked it. Sad to hear of his passing.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Interesting!
"I make sure I have the pump handle set right next to the closed position
detent but I don't engage it. Leaving it fully locked puts pressure on the
rubber piston pushing it against a small ridge and if you leave it like
that for a long period will permanently indent the rubber seal area and
cause it to leak."

We use our toilet very infrequently. If we're at the marina we use the
marina toilets (unless it's the middle of the night). When we had the boat
in Toronto we mostly NEVER used it with the exception of longer cruises or
weekends. So, very infrequent use. I figured that the infrequent use was
part of the culprit of our failing pump (at only 4 years old with minimal
use seems a disappointment) - so yeah, the above is very handy info.

Thanks!

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I have a similar problem with my jabsco head. It was a brand new
replacement for the original that I installed about 4 years ago. The other
night we were sleeping aboard and I got up in the middle of the night for a
bio break and lo and behold, the bowl was full! Right to the rim but not
overflowing! Lucky me, I thought, that it didn't sink the boat!

Well being the middle of the night my head wasn't totally screwed on. Of
course, the bowl had been overflowing quite a bit and the bilge was full to
the brim! (I had turned off the bilge pump earlier that day for some
reason)... anyway .. long story short, thanks for recounting your
experience. I now know what I have to do and what will be involved so I'm a
whole lot less worried about it :)

Replacing the head and hoses was the filthiest job I've ever done and I'm
glad not to have to repeat (much) of it.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did it fix the original problem?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
>
> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
> water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
> the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
> faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>
> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
> problem.simplest
> way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.
>
> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>
> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> AZURA
>
> C 32 - 84
>
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List AH 4000 users

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi Joe, I still have one. I just moved it to make way for a new
chartplotter so it's mounted in the side of the cockpit next to the engine
controls on my 32.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Dull red hull

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm with Francois on this - and stay away from silicone products (most and
certainly all of the "easy" ones).

Read this:
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/52772-tips-compound-polish-wax.html

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Stus-List Sail Measurements - C 32

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Boat is far away. I did the measurements but screwed up the "I"
measurement, I measured to the top of the coach roof rather than to the
deck. I actually went through this exercise over 3 years ago with the boat
on the hard and these are my measurements form back then.

My measurement to the coach roof was 38' 10".
Sailboatdata.com has the C 32 "I" measurement at 41.12'. That's a
difference of over two feet, which seems like too much to me the coach
roof doesn't take up 2 feet.

Has anyone taken these measurements on their C 32, would you care to
share them?
I measured max hoist to 40' 5" and the "J" as 12' 3.5". Would be curious to
see how I measure up to other C 32 owner's measurements. I'de rather not
drive up to the boat tonight :/
It's starting to look like I might have to.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I've been crewing on an Abbott 33 on Tuesday nights for 4 or 5 years now.
Really enjoy it, for sure. Father/son team so the dynamic can be pretty
entertaining some days.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Sail cover

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

The C motif on sail covers is my favourite. I would take it to modify,
but it's probably better off with someone who needs one that big in the
first place. I do need a new cover though.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm really low tech - hoist the sail at the dock, connect the furling line
.. roll the sail up by hand (by manually rotating the drum) .. go a few
extra turns - to someone else's point, undoing jib sheets later is easy if
need be.

You guys are overthinking it :)

(probably I'm underthinking it)

If the question is "how much line will I need" then I guess you could do
some math - or just measure the old line.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Sales tax in Canada

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

My experience was exactly the same as Peter's.
Broker deal - letter in the mail almost two years later.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Water pooling inside aft toe rail C 29 mk II

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I got this tip on the list: hang a scrap piece of line through the toe rail
where the water pools. The line will act like a syphon and drain the
pooling water overboard. Good way to prevent black streaks too.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anyone else who owns a C 29 mark II have problems where water pools on
> the aft part of the gunwales just inside the toe rail? I noticed the water
> doesn't run out and I'm curious if it's unique to my boat or others have
> had the same problem. No intrusion has occurred as far as I can tell.
>
> Also update on my head repair: Turns out it was a Brydon 59128- which
> is discontinued, but the Dutch RM69 5xx models appears to use almost
> exactly the same parts (found a post where someone used them). Just need to
> see if I can locate a sealed gland that will work for the pump rod.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene Fodor
> C 29-II
> Hawk
>
> PS. There just isn't enough hand sanitizer in the world to feel clean
> after disassembling your old head pump.
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ping Wally

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Nice to hear from you, Wally. Your site is a treasure, for sure. But your
regular contributions to the list really pick things up around here. Don't
be a stranger.

Fair seas.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto



On Fri, Jun 3, 2016 at 4:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wow!  He's alive!!  Well, that's a relative term.
>
> Good to hear from you, Wal.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Jun 3, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Umm...  you don't want to know.
>>
>> I haven't updated the web site in two years because my web tools don't
>> work under current OS versions. Or maybe I'm having too much life to care.
>> Or both.
>>
>> Anyway, it's hurricane season and the storms are starting.  This time of
>> year they start south and tend to head west, but throw up some good
>> southerly breezes if they're a few hundred miles away. So I'm going to head
>> north a few hundred or thousand miles.
>>
>> I will be crying when I round the point.  That's what happens when you
>> stay in one place too long.
>>
>> Cuidate,
>> Wal
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Fred wrote:
>>
>>> Shh… he’s in Tequilaville.  Don’t wake him…   :^)
>>>
>> On Apr 25, 2016, Stevan  wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Wally, where've you been? It's hard to live vicariously through you
>>> when you don't post to the list!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Yeah, I made the mistake of forgetting the tangs one year when stepping. I
loosened up all the rigging and actually had to Macguyver a rig using tie
down straps and I forget what else to bring the cabin top down a few mm for
the bolt to clear.
Not making that mistake again.
It sounds like one tang is longer than the other? If they are identical
then you shouldn't have to do more than what's been recommended so far.
However, if they are not identical I would have another one fabricated to
be identical to your existing tang.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 6:17 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Doug.
>
> On my 37 I cannot install the bolts if I tune the mast first.  I've done
> this a couple of times now and the only thing to do is loosen everything,
> install the bolts and re-tune.
>
> Mike
> C 37
> Long Sault
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 30, 2016, at 8:05 PM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the
> mast collar tangs so I had a friend fabricate a duplicate. Both are now
> misaligned and the holes are about 1/4 inch too high to slip the bolt in
> (the boat is fully rigged). My friends have different opinions on this.
> One says release the rigging and the tangs will slightly deform the cabin
> top when we reset the mast. Another days remake the tangs so the bolts line
> up with jokes in the mast when it's fully rigged. Looking for help from you
> folks.
>
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
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>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
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>
>
> ___
>
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Fred, you are committed!
Sometimes I think I should be committed .. in that other less positive way.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi,

Thanks for all the replies, I'll have to wade through some of those links
you guys sent. Regarding the crimping of cables:

The battery cables are routed through the quarter berth, engine
compartment, to the battery switch which is not easily accessible. So, I'll
have to do some boat surgery just to get at the switch in order to
disconnect the battery cables, then remove them from the boat which would
take I estimate, about a day. No kidding. I relearn the lesson of budgeting
time appropriately for boat work every time I think I'm going to get
something done quickly, it's never quick and the list of things that really
need to be done, is long. The past two weeks I worked six days each and
managed to launch the boat, step the mast and get three garden beds in at
the house. I am not a person who has a lot of time on his hands.

I appreciate that you guys are recommending the "right way" to do this, but
I'm comfortable with the adapters. They are threaded, and not going
anywhere - just like the nuts that are recommended. I've always found the
clamp style battery connectors to be secure and that's how the boat has
always been for 36 years now. The laws of physics haven't changed
though I appreciate that standards have, and that's fine. One day I'de like
to embark on the rewiring project but that's what it's going to be: a
project, not a "spring prep" task. Ideally, those projects take place in
the off-season so that they don't eat into precious sailing time.

The boat is *1.5 hours away*. That's three hours of driving (on a good day,
traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount
of work involved in removing them. Sure, I could buy new ones, but I still
have to remove the old and install the new.

So, I'm looking for the adapters. I'll dig through all the helpful posts
once I have time to breathe.

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.

When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was
stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I
stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.

I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.

Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
pair.

Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.

Again, this is what I am after:
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130

Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Anyone know off-hand the circumference of a C 32 mast?
That SSI Custom Plastics place has them right on the site but I'm not sure
what size I need and the boat is two hours away. It's going to rain all
weekend and be crappy out so it's unlikely I'll be making the trip for
summarizing.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

If this is what you mean:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/automotive/batteries-accessories/battery-maintenance-tools/battery-terminals/motomaster-marine-battery-terminal-0113508p.html?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice_medium=SearchVoice_source=RatingsAndReviews_content=Default

I need the opposite. I haven't found it on their site and won't have a
chance to check a store for a few days yet.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 12:01 PM, jhnelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe motormaster marine battery terminal $5.99 is exactly what you
> are looking for.
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I figured out what I'm looking for:
battery stud to top post adapter

When I search for that I find lots of places selling them.
It's probably good when you know what things are called :) (I do now)

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 12:54 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
wrote:

> Just so I'm clear, my battery terminals are the 1st type seen here on
> Trojan's spec sheet:
> http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T105_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf
>
> My battery cables have the big clamp style connectors. This looks perfect
> but the seller doesn't ship to Canada:
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Cable-threaded-5-16-battery-stud-to-top-post-adapter-conversion-5-16-5513-/391403629520
>
> Paul, I'de be surprised if Canadian Tire has something like that but I've
> been wrong before so I'll have a look, thanks for the tip.
>
> I use standard nuts and apply liberal amounts of torque and dielectric
> grease when making battery connections. As yet I haven't had issues with
> loose connections or corrosion.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Just so I'm clear, my battery terminals are the 1st type seen here on
Trojan's spec sheet:
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T105_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf

My battery cables have the big clamp style connectors. This looks perfect
but the seller doesn't ship to Canada:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Cable-threaded-5-16-battery-stud-to-top-post-adapter-conversion-5-16-5513-/391403629520

Paul, I'de be surprised if Canadian Tire has something like that but I've
been wrong before so I'll have a look, thanks for the tip.

I use standard nuts and apply liberal amounts of torque and dielectric
grease when making battery connections. As yet I haven't had issues with
loose connections or corrosion.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart
batteries. I didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries and
now that they're on the boat I realize that the battery cables won't work
with these batteries. I had made considerations about size, space, load etc
but not the actual physical properties of the posts. (I made cardboard
mockups and they fit just like so)

Anyway, I need an adapter like this:
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg

1. what the heck is that called?
2. where can I get them?!!!

I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that but I
need it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something - which is
entirely in the realm of possibility.

I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I remove
the cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely routed
through the boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care to open.

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Yes.
With the boat, the sky is the limit for spending. Ask yourself, do you
really need "the best" for your solar setup? Good panels are a must, they
last a long time. With all due respect to "Maine Sail" (I've donated money
to the guy because his site is so damn helpful), his article about cheap
chinese controllers is years old. Again: "commodity" tech, this stuff just
gets better and cheaper. The beauty is that if the cheap chinese thing
doesn't work out you aren't out much, but the reality is that it will work
just fine.

Having a built in display is more useful to me, personally, than knowing I
have "the best" and a 10% efficiency gain. I don't care. My batteries stay
topped up when I'm not on board, that's the point (for me).

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


> Just hoping someone had had good luck with some of these cheaper options.
>
> Josh
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

It's hit or miss. I purchased my solar panel and controller as a kit from
an ebay store located in Quebec. This outfit:
http://www.ebay.com/usr/solar-power-canada?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

If I were cruising full time I wouldn't cheap out on this. The truth is
that I'm a weekend cruiser and this technology is a commodity. Three
seasons now and I don't regret cheaping out on this one, the kit has served
very well.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Lovely boat, I'm a fan of the 37. I dig your style flaking that main to
show the logo prominently, well done :)

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 1:59 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jim — one other interesting link for you:
>
> http://gamelectronicsinc.com/products/gam-mckim-split-lead-antenna/
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 26, 2016, at 12:44 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi, Jim — welcome to the list!  You may want to take a look at the
> following link for SSB info:
>
> http://www.farallon.us/webstore/Pcup%20SSB.pdf
>
> And the KISS ground-plane system seems to be a nice and simple way to set
> up your ground plane:
>
> http://www.kiss-ssb.com
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 26, 2016, at 12:36 PM, Jim Eagon via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all:
>
> I just purchased "Trinity", a 1984 C7C 37, from her original owner.
> She's in top shape and I want to get some things going for this coming
> summer.
> My first question is: where can I find a copy of the original owner's
> manual for the boat?
> I have already looked at the c site but the 37 seems to be missing?
>
> Also, are there any experts out here who have installed SSB? I have some
> ideas for
> an antenna, but I really would like to know what people have done. I want
> to work 10m-80m
> and, with the rod rigging, I'm not sure how to string a wire antenna.
>
> Thank you all for your comments and shared wisdom - I have enjoyed reading
> the posts so far.
>
> Fair winds and 73...
> Jim Eagon [K6JFE]
>
> I'd rather be sailing!
>
>
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Stus-List Ping Wally

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hey Wally, where've you been? It's hard to live vicariously through you
when you don't post to the list!

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

If it's not been done in decades, you'll likely find that you have to
replace the hoses once you start on this job. Plan accordingly.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 3:23 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> I have the same original head working well, but a used pump assembly to
> rebuild would be great to have to swap in. Look for one to rebuild and have
> ready!
>
> Don
>
> Don Harben
> Viking 34
> Life
> www.ncyc.ca
>
>
> > On Apr 20, 2016, at 2:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > put on some heavy rubber gloves, take the Wicox home and bleach the heck
> out of it and rebuild it.  It'll be like new and all the hoses will be
> routed properly!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Another recommend for Andrew's trucking if you end up going that way. They
did an excellent job moving my boat and they know their C
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Ontario Forward hatch rubber seal

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Don, I already made arrangements with Joel before seeing this email. Yes,
I'm in Toronto! The AGO is an ideal place for me to meet otherwise, I work
very close by.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:52 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Steve,
>
> I think that you are a Toronto boat!
>
>  I need some as well, in two sizes, small head hatch and forward hatch.
> Fred was fabulous putting together a plexi template order for my small
> hatch. Ed put together a premium butyl order and we rendezvoused outside
> the Art Gallery of Ontario
>
> I am wondering if we might find a local Ontario supplier for the glue and
> the foam rod and split it up. I will check around to see what I can find
> from these possible suppliers:
>
> 1. SB Simpson Industrial Supplies, Tools and Equipment
> http://www.sbsimpson.com/
>
> 2. Atkins and Hoyle
> http://atkinshoyle.com/hatch-repairs.html
>
> 3. Hammerhead Nautical Systemshttp://www.hhns.ca/products-parts
> 4. Holland Marine
> http://hollandmarine.com
>
> I am 7-8 hr drive from my boat ... so I will go with others A gasket
> sizing.
>
> Don
> Don Harben
> Life
> V34 www.ncyc.ca
>
> Oakville for now ...
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2016, at 2:25 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Joel, I need some!
> Feel free to email me offline to arrange $$ and shipping. No way any of us
> needs 100 feet.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:08 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Atkins & Hoyle will sell you the world's most expensive seal, or you can
>> get a large roll at McMaster Carr.
>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#epdm-foam-cords/=116i66x
>>
>> or hope someone has some laying around.  I'm ordering 1/2 inch if anyone
>> needs some.
>>
>> BTW, I used Goo Gone to loosen the adhesive.  Worked great!
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29 is leaking.
>>> I was thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4 foam rubber seal.  I cut
>>> out a piece of the original seal and it looks as if it was round.  Any
>>> suggestions?
>>>
>>> Frank
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
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>
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>
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Re: Stus-List Interior cushions

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I took the covers off of all of my cushions on the 32 and washed those in
the machine at home. I washed them with diluted bleach solution. They
cleaned up very nicely. For the foam I actually went a bit crazy and soaked
them one by one in a kiddy pool filled with bleach/water solution. Then I
let them dry in the sun for up to a week (taking them indoors when it
rained). Was a pain in the butt but they are in much, much nicer condition
now. Cosmetically they were fine, but they stank like 35 year old boat
cushions. Not anymore! I didn't get all the foam bleached/soaked, but did
maybe half (important v-berth, sitting cushions, etc). Did wash all the
covers though.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:09 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Paul -
> Every few years I take the covers off and wash them.  Also spray the foam
> to
> reduce odor.  Biggest issue is sometimes the zippers break during the
> pull-off process and I take the piece over to the local shop to repair.
>
> Someday I will replace the foam and covers, just not this day.  Too many
> other priorities.
>
> There's nothing wrong with making due.
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul
> taylor via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 12:14 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: paul taylor
> Subject: Stus-List Interior cushions
>
> I have a 1977 29-1, original cushions. Does anyone know if the cushions can
> be washed without shrinkage ?
> I was thinking of washing them in an industrial washer with the foam
> inside.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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Re: Stus-List Forward hatch rubber seal

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Joel, I need some!
Feel free to email me offline to arrange $$ and shipping. No way any of us
needs 100 feet.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:08 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Atkins & Hoyle will sell you the world's most expensive seal, or you can
> get a large roll at McMaster Carr.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#epdm-foam-cords/=116i66x
>
> or hope someone has some laying around.  I'm ordering 1/2 inch if anyone
> needs some.
>
> BTW, I used Goo Gone to loosen the adhesive.  Worked great!
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29 is leaking.
>> I was thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4 foam rubber seal.  I cut
>> out a piece of the original seal and it looks as if it was round.  Any
>> suggestions?
>>
>> Frank
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List New Stereo...phhhhfffft....

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I know this is simple, but is your battery fully charged? If it's not
getting enough voltage it may not turn on.
If nothing else has changed...

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Apr 13, 2016 at 6:09 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Ahhh.   I am the architect of said (somewhat) rats nest.  Let the jiggling
> begin.
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2016 14:41:00 -0700
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List New Stereo...pt
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: leeyoungbl...@earthlink.net
>
>
> Hi David,
>
> Most boat/car stereos are homeowner wired.  Don’t you just reach behind
> the unit and wiggle the rats nest of wires, that’s what the rest of us do.
> . .
>
>
>
> On Apr 13, 2016, at 2:30 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I stink at wiring so...
>
> Installed new stereo last year.  All was fine when boat went to bed for
> winter.  Went to turn it on this spring.  Nuthin'.
>
> The panel light, however is glowing faintly.
>
> I assume that means a short somewhere?   At panel or at stereo?
> Everything else at panel is fine so I assume it is not that, but as Im said
> I stink at wiring et al.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> David F. Risch
>
>
>
> ___ This list is supported by
> the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help
> us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_7649435444935917691_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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Re: Stus-List Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from?

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

This thread over on the Moyer Marine forum might be helpful when you get
down to doing the job:
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9321=pump+rebuild

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from?

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I think the 15 and 16 are for the diesel engines.
Thanks for the link!

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from?

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I have to do the same job, on the same leak, on the same pump. I don't see
a rebuld kit for $50 on moyer marine. The Oberdorfer rebuild kit is $153.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
I'm considering outright replacement with the MMI 502 and keeping the
Oberdorfer as an emergency spare.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto



On Wed, Apr 13, 2016 at 1:57 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds like it's time to drain the system, remove it, and rebuilt it with
> the $50 Moyer kit.  Thanks guys.  Helpful as usual.
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard Wiring

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I know you guys have an aft cabin to deal with but you might find some
useful installation tips here:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/plotter_mount_edson=1

Good article, good site. I'm going through this exercise on Suhana very
soon. I got the same navpod pedestal guard.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Sat, Apr 9, 2016 at 5:19 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It is still a good idea to use an o ring, seal, or other type of goop
> where wires enter the pedestal to cut down on possible chafe.  Any stray
> current reaching the pedestal due to bad insulation will make powder
> coating peel off the pedestal like snake skin..
> Probably not the best for the instruments either..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram MA
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 9, 2016, at 5:08 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Chuck,
>  You have it exactly right.  I did not seal either place because any
> water that leaks in will come out in the area where the steering cable are,
> and that area is wet anyway.
>
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 9, 2016 at 1:20 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Gary,
>> Your solution sounds very professional.  Do I understand you correctly?
>> Your Navpod wires run down inside the SS guard tubing, then exit the
>> guard underneath the big traiangular plate that captures the pedestal and
>> guard and supports the compass.  Then the wires enter the pedestal and run
>> down inside, through the idler plate and follows the other wires and cables
>> from the pedestal.  What did you use to seal the wires where they penetrate
>> the SS guard and the Pedestal?
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>> --
>> *From: *"Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
>> *To: *"C List" 
>> *Cc: *"Gary Russell" 
>> *Sent: *Saturday, April 9, 2016 8:34:31 AM
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal
>> GuardWiring
>>
>> Hi Edd,
>>  I recently installed a new pedestal guard with an offset to add a
>> Navpod for my new B Zeus2 display.  I soon discovered the problem
>> everyone has noticed in that you can't run wiring through the floor under
>> the pedestal guard.  Instead, I ran the wiring from the pod into the
>> pedestal guard and exited the pedestal guard just below the plate that
>> supports the compass.  I drilled a small hole into the binnacle and ran the
>> wires into the area under the compass.  If you do this properly, the wires
>> are not visible.  From there I snaked the wires down through the sheave
>> plate and into the area where the steering cables run under the floor
>> panel.  I then drilled a hole into the ports side locker and continued from
>> there.  It worked well for me.  Fishing the wires through the sheave plate
>> under the binnacle is a challenge, but doable.  I hope this helps.
>>
>> Live long and prosper,
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah (formerly High Maintenance)
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> Gary
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 4:24 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Listers,
>>>
>>> Has anyone with 1989-1993 C installed instruments into a NavPod (or
>>> similar) onto their stainless pedestal guards, and, if so, how did you run
>>> the wires down from inside the guard? In other words, once you reached the
>>> bottom, where did you go from there?
>>>
>>> As far as I can tell, without taking it all apart, the guard ends on the
>>> deck above the aft cabin and there is no access point to that area. But, I
>>> may be wrong.
>>>
>>> Anyone? I’m looking to install a Raymarine e95 MFD and p70 Autopilot
>>> control head at the helm.
>>>
>>>
>>> All the best,
>>>
>>> Edd
>>>
>>>
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Starship Enterprise
>>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> City Island, NY
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
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>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
>>
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>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by 

Re: Stus-List Nice 32 for sale - Lake Ontario

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

That makes a lot of sense. Never having sailed on a boat with a centerboard
that didn't even occur to me.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Stus-List Nice 32 for sale - Lake Ontario

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

1980 Swing Keel


No affiliation. Came across the ad and noticed some things about that boat
I really liked, namely the super clean engine compartment. To me that's a
sign of a well taken care of boat. I wonder, does that compression post (?)
aft of the mast do something for the swing keel version? I have not seen
that before. Swing keel 32s aren't common.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Solar charger selector switch

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

You're putting .35 of an amp into those batteries per hour in the best case
scenario.

I would be looking to invest in a larger panel rather than a switch. If you
want to stick to your plan a regular Blue Sea 1/2/all switch will likely do
the trick.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Apr 6, 2016 at 12:31 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A 6 watt solar panel's real-life output is so tiny that you could have one
> of those panels for each battery and never worry about even coming close to
> overcharging anything.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 4/6/2016 12:21 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I have a small 6 watt Ganz solar panel which does a very nice job of
> keeping my starter battery and my house battery topped up.  The only
> trouble is, when I want to switch which battery I'm charging, I have to
> open the locker, open the battery box, disconnect the + and - connectors
> from one battery and switch them to the other.
>
> My question is - is there some type of A/B switch that will allow me to
> just hook + and - from both batteries to it and select which battery gets
> the juice from the panel?
>
> This is my solar charger.  It's a really great little piece of equipment.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/CBC-GSP-6-Flexible-Solar-Panel/dp/B006GFPF30/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1459958952=8-1=ganz+solar
>
>
> Ryan
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List GPS

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

iPad with cellular, doesn't need a phone subscription for the GPS to work.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Bluetooth Speakers on Deck

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

"Install a stereo with Bluetooth or MP3 aux input and installed speakers."
This.

One of the first things I did on Suhana. The PO had installed cockpit
speakers but never installed the marine deck he had purchased some years
prior. The uninstalled deck was included when I purchased the boat but it
was old and had no features so I purchased a Kenwood car stereo, new for
about $100. Has served very well. I keep my phone in my pocket so when I'm
at the helm I can play music to it via bluetooth. If you want to keep the
iphone inside the boat and the portable speaker outside, I think you're
doing it backwards :)

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I got dinged with a $93 CAD brokerage fee buying something from Defender
just last week. With UPS, I expected some brokerage, they always do, but
$93 was just unreasonable. I would have refused the package had I not had
it shipped to my Mom's address. She couldn't get a hold of me so she paid
it.

What I purchased was $150 USD :(

All told the pedestal guard (Navpod SG10) cost me over $300 CAD. Which is
what it would have cost me locally (I suspect, didn't actually find it
locally).

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 9:58 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck,
> In my experience U.S.P.S. works best overall for shipments to Canada. The
> upfront shipping cost is often higher than for other carriers, but there is
> less added cost over and above the sales taxes, and for lower value items,
> there is usually no added cost or sales tax at all. Some vendors chose
> U.S.P.S. shipping options that are more expensive than necessary, but that
> is usually just carelessness. There are limits to what U.S.P.S. is willing
> to carry, but they will handle some pretty big packages. A fellow lister
> just sent me a complete below decks autopilot system, and years ago I got a
> complete radar system through the mail.
>I also had good experiences with FedEx for shipments where U.S.P.S. was
> not a choice, but that was some time ago, and I have no recent experience
> with them.
> Defender's web site did not give me a U.S.P.S. option for shipping to
> Canada when I placed my order last year, but perhaps they would have if I
> had telephoned.
> Best,
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
>
>  Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  wrote:
> Steve,
> As the US rep for a Canadian company, can you tell me what other currier
> service works better than others for shipments from the states?  It seems
> that UPS has limits to their geographic distribution and often transfers
> goods to secondary carriers  like Purolator for local deliveries.  We see
> this in freight originating in Canada as well.
> I know Defender will ship via US Postal to international destinations so
> perhaps that may be a solution if it isn't a huge oversize item.
> Since the Canadian dollar isn't going too far in the US, on top of all the
> various fees and brokerage costs, perhaps this is the year to throw some
> Loonies at the home town retailer and help him keep his doors open.
> Which I'm sure you already do.
> Best,
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram MA
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Mar 30, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > One note of caution for my fellow Canadians.
> > I ordered a few things from Defender that were on sale last year,
> totalling less than $200 U.S., and they insisted on sending it via U.P.S. I
> paid the shipping in advance, along with the rest of the order.
> > When the U.P.S. driver showed up on my front porch, he wanted a further
> $93 Canadian for "brokerage" fees. U.P.S. sucks when it comes to cross
> border shipments. I refused to accept the shipment.
> > I have no doubt at all that Defender is a good outfit, but their choice
> of shipping company for Canadian addresses is not. I purchase goods online
> from the States all the time and that was my worst shipping experience so
> far. Most of the bad ones have involved U.P.S.
> >
> > Steve Thomas
> > C MKIII
> > Port Stanley, ON
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List 27mkIII part out

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

On Kijiji, in waterloo ON:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/kitchener-waterloo/parting-out-everything-from-c-c-27-mk-iii-updated/1094723097?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

$200 for all the standing rigging. If I had a 27mkIII I'de spring $200 for
a spare set of standing rigging, sure.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I purchased a Rolly Tasker 155% genoa a couple of years back, very happy
with the price and the sail.
To another poster's point, I don't have the experience to tell a design
flaw or poor design. All I know is that I can trim the sail very nicely,
that's good enough for me. I think I'de be in the same boat in regards to
what I know about the sail if I spent twice as much. For someone who races
and has more experience maybe there would be design elements that mattered.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Sat, Mar 26, 2016 at 10:45 AM, Rjcasciato via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Andrew:
>
>
>
> Definitely ask for the Cunningham ring..it should be an easy
> addition
>
>
>
> AS far as the sail slugs goI strongly recommend looking at the Tides
> Marine Strong Trackit is a nylon/Delrin track that slides up inside
> your original sail slot and the slugs are now polished stainless that slide
> very easily up and down….on my 38MKII, with a luff of 45’, I can raise
> the main to within about 6 feet of the masthead before using the winch to
> get it trimmed………
>
>
>
> https://www.tidesmarine.com/sailtrack
>
>
>
> Considering that your crew may be short on numbers and skill, that one
> item made my 38 a simple dream to operate………..even my wife can raise it
> most of the way up herself.
>
>
>
> I did the track install myself in 1998 and it is still intact and working
> great today….
>
>
>
> I’m not sure of the pricing, but since your Rolly Tasker representative is
> in Florida??? So is Tides Marine……….I’m sure they know each other.  The
> sail does have to have the slugs installed when they make it….you could
> do it yourself, but your sailmaker is equipped to do it better..
>
>
>
> My $0.50 worth,
>
>
>
> Best
>
> Ron C
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, March 25, 2016 9:43 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails
>
>
>
> My 135 came from There. I am very pleased with it and would not hesitate
> to buy from them again. The flow stripes are also known as draft stripes.
> Just colored tape to let you see how much of a belly you having your sail
>
>
>
> Joel
>
> On Friday, March 25, 2016, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey all -
>
>
>
> As part of the long list of refinements and upgrades we need to make on
> the Safari, we’re looking at getting a new main sail from Rolly Tasker via
> National Sails in FL. Here’s the details of the quote:
>
>
>
> *C 34 *(Does anybody feel like confirming that I’ve got these
> measurements correct?)
>
> I = 44’
>
> J = 14
>
> P = 38.25
>
> E  = 10.92
>
>
>
> *Fully Battened Mainsail - *Challenge 8.3oz High Modulus Dacron, 2 reefs
> - $1,459
>
> Comes with leech lines with clam cleats, tell tales, flo-stripes*, and
> sail bags. Construction includes triple-stitched seams, large radial corner
> reinforcements, with handsewn leather chafe protection.
>
>
>
> Seems like 8 out of 10 folks have overall positive experience with RT
> sails. There are scattered reports of quality issues, but I’m inclined to
> see that as a risk of any production sail loft. Have any of you ordered
> from them before? What’s been your experience? I’m inquiring about adding a
> cunningham and seeing what our options are for the slugs. Are there other
> options you’d recommend I request?
>
>
>
> Before anybody suggests I go to a custom sailmaker to get a super high
> quality sail, the price is really what we can afford right now; if we need
> to spend more money to get a decent sail then we’ll have to wait another
> season or two to replace our (very tired) main. Willing to do that if
> enough folks wave us off RT, but hoping this could be a great solution for
> our casual cruising needs!
>
>
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
> *What the heck are Flo-Stripes?
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 MK I
>
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List cabin sole question/update

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Maybe you already read this but:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/

I had to search it because I had not heard of varnishing over epoxy before.
Interesting.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
>
>
> All sections of new cabin sole are cut out and fitted and now the coating
> is in progress.  I have two coats of West 105/207 on the finished side of
> the teak and holly as well as underneath and on edges.  Following epoxy I
> am planning a number of coats of Epifanes varnish on the finished side only.
>
>
>
> A couple of questions.
>
>
>
> 1.  After sanding epoxy and prior to initial coat of varnish what
> should be used to wipe down the surface?  Acetone?
>
> 2.  After sanding each coat of varnish what is used to wipe down the
> varnish prior to applying next coat?  Some sort of paint thinner or
> something else?  I have Interlux 202 Solvent wash, paint thinner, Interlux
> special thinner 216 and acetone on hand as well as a Canadian Tire and a
> Chandlery on my drive home
>
> 3.  How many coats of epoxy prior to first coat of varnish?  (finish
> surface)
>
> 4.  How many coats of varnish over the epoxy? (finish surface)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 22 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Josh Muckley)

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Of course, I didn't heed my own directions and left the body in that last
email!

ps

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List List Management

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

"Maybe part of the problems with Gmail are that when replying to a message,
it does not appear that you can trim the message or change the subject
line."

Oh, but you can:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqKEJTjgNLE

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Josh Muckley)

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

How to reply to C emails using gmail:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqKEJTjgNLE

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 9:45 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian,
>
> As you are using Gmail, try this, it may help.
>
> Got to Gmail Settings, Setting (the little "gear" top right on a browser)
>
> Go to the "Labs" tab (third from the right across the top).
>
> Search for a lab:
>
> Quote selected text
> Ryan A
>
> Quote the text you have selected when you reply to a message. (Now works
> with the mouse too!)
>
>
> Enable it and see if that helps with replies from the Digest.
>
> Unfortunately you'll still have to edit the subject line, this wont' help
> with that.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 18 March 2016 at 09:59, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> For starters I reply with a variety of devices and they don't all work
>> the same, some are easier than others.
>>
>> The fact that I am replying to a digest, instead of just one message in
>> the digest, causes the subject header to be the Vol and Issue of the
>> digest. I can't reply to just one message in the digest. If there was a way
>> to do that it would go a long way to fixing the problem. It could also help
>> if it only brought over the individual Message being replied to, instead of
>> every message in the Digest issue. That would eliminate the mistake of not
>> stripping out the unnecessary messages.
>>
>> When I choose 'reply' the subject line doesn't even appear, so it is not
>> 'in my face' reminding me to change it. I have to drop down the subject
>> header to see it and then change it. Not sure if there is a setting in
>> gmail to change that, I will have to look.
>>
>> On the other hand, I think it is more of a hassle having to scroll and
>> scan thru all of the messages to find the one I want to read. If one could
>> click on the relevant subject at the top of the digest and have it take you
>> down the page to the message you wanted it would save much more time than
>> having read a subject line that said Re: VolXXX Issue aaa.
>>
>>
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 21:26:05 -0400
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ &
>> Melody)
>> Message-ID:
>> <
>> ca+zacrdfk5nxzzgpe-ul2hshoudgay5jmkz1zeutlthc-om...@mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Brian,
>>
>> I approached someone else off list as to why/how this happens.  Can you
>> possibly give some insights?  If there was legitimately something simple
>> that could be done on the server side?  I considered that maybe renaming
>> the digest subject to include "DO NOT REPLY" would help?  I've also
>> thought
>> that simply having a server rule that rejects all mail with the word
>> DIGEST
>> in the subject line?
>>
>> I guess I've never had a problem so I don't understand what's causing the
>> problem.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> --
>> Brian Fry
>> S/V La Neige
>> 1993 C 37/40XL
>> HdG Maryland
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List solar power setup

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

That morningstar controller really is inexpensive. Nice find.

Richard, maybe this will be helpful to you:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 10:21 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I can’t get photos – I am off on a trip right now. The panel is not
> mounted to anything, I just put it out in different place depending on the
> sun. If you don’t move it, sooner or later it gets on the wrong side or a
> shadow goes across it. I don’t use it in the slip – I have shorepower – but
> I do use it on my mooring.  I usually put it on the foredeck when I am gone.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Richard N. Bush [mailto:bushma...@aol.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 01, 2016 10:19 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List solar power setup
>
>
>
> Joe, thank you for the solar equipment listings; I would like to duplicate
> your setup on my boat; Where and how have you installed the solar panel? Do
> you leave it up all the time?  (as opposed to weekends only, etc) DO you
> have to orient the panel toward the sun or do you just leave it?  Any
> available photos would be great, Many thanks
>
>
>
> Richard
>
> 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Sent: Tue, Mar 1, 2016 9:50 am
> Subject: Stus-List solar power setup
>
> Someone asked me about my solar panel setup.
>
> I have one of these – a 50 watt panel:
> http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1456843564=8-1=renogy+50+watt
>
> I have this controller -
> http://www.amazon.com/SunGuard-Charge-Controller-Regulator-Morningstar/dp/B000O3O0W2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8=1456843683=8-3=morningstar+solar
>
> I have the panel on a long cord and plug it in to a trolling motor plug
> when using it. It does a good job with the batteries when I am on my
> mooring.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Email address:
>
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of
>
> page at:
>
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>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List solar power setup

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I purchased a 65watt mono panel with charge controller and cables from
these guys:
http://stores.ebay.ca/solarenergydcinc/
All told IIRC it was $250 CAD, maybe $300. Not a lot of money when talking
boat stuff.

That was back in 2013. The setup has served very well. People are right to
recommend a quality MPPT charge controller but I found the return on
investment when dealing with sub 100 watt panels to be minimal and not
worth it. At the time a cheap PWM controller is what came with my kit and
it has been fine now for over 2 seasons. It also has useful features like
an LCD screen that shows how many amps I'm generating, the entry level
morningstar controllers don't do that. I spent money on nice fittings for
my bimini to mount the thing and I'm glad I did because take down and setup
in fall and spring are easy and the mounting is very secure.

Suhana was on a wet mooring since I first launched her in 2012. It was
important to maintain the batteries somehow. Our consumption is low enough
that the 65 watt panel served very well on a three week cruise. Last thing
I'll mention is that the batteries are an unknown age, ie; older than 2011
when I purchased her. I believe the solar panel has a lot to do with them
still being alive. New Trojan T-105s are on the menu for spring and we'll
have shore power now for the first time :)

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:49 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Someone asked me about my solar panel setup.
>
> I have one of these – a 50 watt panel:
> http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1456843564=8-1=renogy+50+watt
>
> I have this controller -
> http://www.amazon.com/SunGuard-Charge-Controller-Regulator-Morningstar/dp/B000O3O0W2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8=1456843683=8-3=morningstar+solar
>
> I have the panel on a long cord and plug it in to a trolling motor plug
> when using it. It does a good job with the batteries when I am on my
> mooring.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Drilling 5" hole in the deck

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Some of you may recall I reached out to the list for feedback on heaters. I
went with the Dickinson Newport Diesel fireplace. I have an Atomic 4 so
primary fuel is gasoline and the espar/webasto type heaters, at least as
far as their literature is concerned, should not be installed anywhere
there's a gasoline tank which ruled out the cockpit locker for an install
location and pretty well ruled out the diesel furnace style heaters
altogether.

Took delivery of the heater last week and drove the two hours to the boat
on Sunday. Right now I'm thinking, "what did I get myself into?". As I was
measuring the boat for the chimney and final install location of the heater
I had a bit of a panic: 5" hole

Please see pics of install location here:
https://goo.gl/photos/4GYL7SXqUZE3USRCA

Note the roll of tape is just a visual indicator, it's only 4" diameter so
the hole will be bigger. The heater will be installed along the edge of the
bulkhead where will it be close to the mast and mostly out of the way as
one has to squeeze past the mast to get into the dinette seat anyway. The
cushion pictured is from the aft seat of the dinette, I used it to
illustrate how the existing cushion back will be modified to accommodate a
lower heater install. The original cushion will be cut down, stainless
backing will be installed behind the heater and at the end of the day I'm
hoping for a pretty clean looking install, hopefully.

My question: is that a bad place for a 5" hole? There is a flat spot on the
coach roof a little aft and to starboard (winch mount location maybe) but
that would involve elbows and Dickinson recommends a straight run for the
chimney. Seems the biggest complaint with these heaters is problems related
to draft, so I want to minimize that as much as possible and keep the run
straight. The other problem with that location is that the access panel is
only half over that location so cutting the 5" hole partway through access
panel, partway through ceiling liner seems like a hack job. You can see in
one picture there's a bit of masking tape identifying the prefered location
on the top side.

So, bad idea?
What can I expect once I start drilling?
Any tips?!!!

Also a question about the chimney: to get the minimum 4' of chimney I will
need about 18" above deck. That's too much to sail with so I was hoping I
could connect the 18" chimney extension and cap when I need it (ie; at
anchor, at the dock, not planning on sailing with it running). Is that
doable? Dickinson makes a rain cap so that would be on most of the time. I
would use a thumbscrew or two and tap the chimney pieces so that it would
be a solid connection, but tool-less switch from one to the other.

Thoughts?

Many thanks.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Cushions smell

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I went a little overboard. I washed all the covers in the laundry with a
mild bleach solution and I soaked the foam in a kiddie pool with another
mild bleach solution. I made every effort to dry the foam in sunlight.

The foam took a long time to dry out. Only do this if you're really
committed!
Worked though.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 7:30 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We used a product called " capture" that worked well. I believe we found
> it at a Home Depot
>
> Sent from Outlook  on my iPhone
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 4:12 PM -0800, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Baking soda and pet and toddler odor remover. Just went through the same
>> thing on a delivery and found a couple of products on the market. The pet
>> odor stuff we found at Walmart and it really did the trick, actually got
>> rid of rather than masked the smell.
>>
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI
>> USA02840
>>
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>>
>> On Feb 25, 2016, at 18:44, TOM VINCENT via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I have an odor of diesel in all of my cushions. It is not a strong
>> smell, when you first go below it is more revelent - after you are
>> there for awhile it is not as bad. If anyone has had a similar problem and
>> solved the issue, I would love to know how. Obviously, a total replacement
>> would work. The Admiral refuses to sleep on the boat because of the odor. I
>> have taken the cushions off for the winter and steam cleaned one and
>> sprayed it with Fabreeze, not much different.
>>
>> Tom Vincent
>> Frolic II C 36 cb
>> Chesapeake City, MD
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Got a New 135% Head Sail

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I didn't mean to imply that the lofts were quite that bad, they weren't.
People were nice enough but I got the feeling their minds were elsewhere,
their attention at the boat show, the timeliness of replies etc was pretty
indicative.

Maybe my problem is Toronto :)
There's a lot of money in this town and the reality is that I am a small
fish. Better business elsewhere.

If I was racing I'm sure the benefits of the local guys would outweigh any
cost advantage the foreign lofts have. Fair enough.

For the little guys like me with the old boat, the foreign lofts present a
good value, and I'm not racing. The sail shape is night and day better than
the old sail, that's enough to please me.

I'm still the limiting factor, not the sails :)

Seems there's an opportunity here for a new kind of freelance middle man.
The guy who will come out to your boat and do all the measuring, consulting
and test sail.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Re sail loft service

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I paid $135 to get my sail from Rolly Tasker's loft in Thailand to my door
here in Toronto Canada.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 3:29 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That's a dirty and rather kinky biz your in..."suits and shits"
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 14:29:10 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Re sail loft service
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: trys...@gmail.com
>
> Does anyone have an idea how much the shipping cost is from Phuket?
>
> We could take up a collection and I'll go pick up a dozen or so sails :)
>
> Seriously though. I get my suits made in Thailand from a reputable
> shop.  I can pay for a plane ticket+ with the savings on customer suits and
> shits.  Maybe I can do the same with sails.
>
> ___ Email address:
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Re: Stus-List Got a New 135% Head Sail

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

"I will admit that sometimes it does feel a little bit like I'm just a
small fry and that I'm wasting their time.  A little part of me gets it
though, lookie loos and shoppers take time and don't make money.  So, in a
way the guy that has already opened his wallet has paid to be top priority.
"

And I think this is the problem and why offshore companies are taking the
business. You don't know who will open their wallet. The best approach is
to show your good face to everyone that comes in the door. It's reasonable
for a customer to shop around for sails. If they aren't prepared to
entertain "looky loos" who are just trying to get the best value for their
hard earned money, then the business goes elsewhere. It's simple customer
service.

There's a generational gap here too. I find the older, established
businesses with sales people that have "been around a long time" are the
worst to deal with on a customer service level. The best companies I've
dealt with are the younger companies, with younger sales reps, that 'get
it'. Lastly, I'm a pretty young guy myself, I've probably got several more
sale purchases in my lifetime, guess who won't be getting the next call?
That's right, the local guys that didn't give me the time of day the first
time around. The smart sellers see a customer for life. The lazy ones see a
young guy "with no money".

See my challenges getting pricing on a chartplotter at a local store here.
Fred sent me most of the info and pricing I needed in about a matter of
hours. I initiated my discourse with the local brick and mortar place over
two weeks ago!!! And I went in there for new life lines and a chartplotter
with accessories. Maybe not the biggest purchase they'll see this year but
likely MY biggest purchase this year.

As a customer I'm fed up BECAUSE I WANT THE LOCAL SUPPORT. But the local
support has to beef up the "support" part of the deal and act like they
care about my business.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Got a New 135% Head Sail

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I purchased a Rolly Tasker 155 a couple of years ago for Suhana. It's a
good sail but like the OP, I have nothing to compare it against except the
original genoa which was deteriorating. So, leagues better than what I had.
It was $1600 shipped to my door from Thailand and arrived two weeks after I
placed the order. The local lofts all wanted about double for same/similar
features and a lot more time.

Here's the rub and here's where I disagree with people on this list and
others that tout the "support" and "cusomter service" of the local guys. I
was treated better by the foreign sail loft. They answered my emails in a
timely way, they were polite and *interested*. The locals, almost all of
them, had a standoffish, almost arrogant attitude and they were slow to
provide pricing and email replies. to me, that's terrible customer service.
First and foremost, I want to be treated like a valued customer and that
starts with the first hello, it doesn't start after I open my checkbook and
they come out to my boat.

No thanks.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 9:06 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My last North 155 Mylar/Kevlar was made in Sri Lanka as was much of the
> clothes hanging in our closets.  One of my sailing buddies retired from
> Kellwood.  Kellwood, VF, and a few others make most clothing sold in the
> US.  He frequently traveled to offshore Kellwood facilities.  He told me
> the North Sails plant was next door to one of the Kellwood sites.
>
> Bottom line is he said the quality control systems in these offshore
> facilities is as stringent as onshore plants.
>
> My local sail maker made me a 155 years ago.  We were in position for 3rd
> in class in a regatta when the tack on the sail let go.  Seems he forgot to
> sew on the web reinforcement through the tack ring.  He was on a nearby
> boat and watched as the sail ripped 1/3 of the way up the luff tape.
>
> When we got back to the pier he came over and asked what happened.  I
> reached in my pocket, pulled out the tack ring and handed it to him.  He
> repaired it but it will always be a repaired sail.
>
> So much for Made in USA quality.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> On Feb 24, 2016 3:32 PM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I just received my new head sail from Precision sail loft last night!
>> I'll be unrolling it tonight to have a first look.  I took a chance to
>> order online from this Canadian based company.  The sail was built in Sri
>> Lanka from what I can tell.  I ordered the Challenge High Modulus Dacron.
>>
>> My question is, what should I be looking for as I inspect the new sail?
>> I plan on comparing the old Rolly Tasker head sail and the relatively new
>> seeming Main.  Other than that, I don't really know enough about sails to
>> know if I got what I paid for.  I'll probably unroll it and snap a bunch of
>> pics if anyone would be interested.
>>
>> Thanks for any insights and advice you may be able to offer.
>>
>> Danny
>> T40
>> Rum Runner IV
>> Mattapoisett, MA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List 1970 C 35 For Sale -- Bidding War in March

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Looks like the ad is gone. Maybe someone made him an offer he couldn't
refuse.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 2:55 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Why do these never come up on the left coast?
>
> --
> Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 18:48:14 +
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1970 C 35 For Sale -- Bidding War in March
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: djhaug...@juno.com
>
>
> Look like really good opertunity potential.  that engine job has to be
> worth $10k no?
>
> Nice find Edd!
>
> Danny
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
> To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1970 C 35 For Sale -- Bidding War in March
> Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 15:49:49 +
>
> 40 gallons is twice standard and 5 gallons a day means nothing. The engine
> would use around 15-20 gallons in a 24 hour day.
>
> I might be in for $1,000 – who knows?
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 24, 2016 09:43
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1970 C 35 For Sale -- Bidding War in March
>
>
>
> His fuel calculation may be off.
>
> On Wednesday, February 24, 2016, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> For anyone that may be looking —
> http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/5461109437.html
>
>
>
> Could be a great opportunity.
>
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Edd
>
>
>
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>
> Starship Enterprise
>
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
> City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___ Email address:
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Re: Stus-List CPN 700i - transducers

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I was hoping I could get NMEA 183 data from the ST40 heads, through some
kind of expensive, proprietary converter :)

I'm an IT guy and this stuff just baffles me.

The main functionality I need is navigation. Everything else is a "nice to
have". $1000 difference one vs the other is what I figure. That's new
lifelines right there. I don't like to be pennywise and pound foolish but
at the end of the day both things appear to have the same navigational
ability, which again is the primary use case. Being able to control the
autohelm is a distant "nice to have'. Being able to use my existing
displays and thru-hulls is a nice to have. Replacing my existing thru-hulls
and displays with a smart ducer seems like it would simplify a lot of
things. If I have depth and speed on the plotter I don't really need it
elsewhere in the cockpit (right now ST40s are mounted by companionway).

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 10:42 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel makes good points.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Feb 24, 2016, at 9:13 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey standard horizon will not control the autopilot. Also, he will not be
> able to program the depth offset if you have a generic transducer.
> Joel
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Stus-List CPN 700i - transducers

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Kind of a piggyback to Bob's thread. I had never really considered the CPN
700i prior to checking it out today. I'm waiting on pricing from a local
chandlery on a list of Raymarine stuff I'll need to buy in order to get an
ES75 working on my boat with my autopilot.

Maybe some of you can chime in on my decision here, Fred especially being
the expert and the local guys are really making me wait which is making me
shy away from giving them my money.

I want an ES series Raymarine plotter.
I have ST40 depth, ST40 speed each with their own thru-hull. The dept ducer
is a "thru the hull" type.
I have an autohelm ST4000 - with the LCD display

If going the raymarine route I'de like it to all work together and I'm told
I need a bunch of accessories to make that happen. That's the list and
pricing I'm waiting for now.

My question to you folks is:
should I just get the CPN700i because it's about half the price of the
Raymarine and a smart transducer to replace my existing speed with
speed/depth in one and get rid of the old thing taking up space in my
locker (depth ducer in mineral oil).

I'de get rid of the ST40 stuff, ebay. Not sure if the CPN700i can control
the autopilot but that's not a huge priority. It'd be nice but at this
point this season is getting pretty expensive what with the diesel heater
and new lifelines to boot.

The CPN700i is $800 CAD and comes with cmap charts (any good? never had a
plotter, don't know)
The Raymarine ES75 is like $1600 CAD and I would need a bunch of raymarine
gizmos to make it work with my depth/speed

Which smart transducer will work best with the SH? Fred, you mentioned
Furuno DT800 in Bob's thread. Airmar makes a DT800 that's NMEA 2000, will
that work and be less proprietary?

Seems to me that buying a plotter and a smart transducer is the easiest and
most cost effective solution. My concern is that the CPN is like 4 years
old now and the Raymarine is brand new.

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

When stuff starts falling over in the galley. Main first, hate to put a
wrinkle in my new genny.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 9:29 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> When you first think of it...
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981  40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2016 21:53:09 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: amira...@eastlink.ca
>
>
> If I am by myself, flying a 130 genoa, I will reef the main at about
> 15kts, makes for a much more comfortable ride. If I’m lazy, I’ll just fly
> the genoa without main and still have plenty speed.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C  Lovely Cruise
> St Margarets Bay, NS
> SMSC
>
> ___ Email address:
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Re: Stus-List NAVPOD

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

A totally hypothetical idea:

If you have a "maker space" near you, draw what you need in illustrator or
autocad and have new gaskets laser cut out of rubber gasket material.

Kind of elaborate.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 11:45 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> hmm  Ron I’m not sure if that would work.
>
> The original gaskets, as far as I can tell, are triangular-shaped with
> holes top and bottom for the securing bolts that go through the back of the
> navpod into the pedestal guard and a gland-type affair in the middle that
> allows the cabling to go through the larger hole in the back of the navpod
> into a larger hole made in the guard.
>
> I’m thinking it might be more water-tight just to use a flat piece of
> neoprene and not run the cabling into the guard via the provided holes but
> rather drill and install cable glands in the bottom of the navpod. Not as
> pretty of course.
>
> Peter
>
> *From:* Ron Casciato via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 10, 2016 8:02 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ron Casciato 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List NAVPOD
>
>
> Look for the largest “o” ring you can find and stretch it around?
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Peter
> Fell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 10, 2016 2:39 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Peter Fell
> *Subject:* Stus-List NAVPOD
>
>
>
> Here’s a bit of a long shot:
>
>
>
> I have an unused Navpod GP131 3-instrument (Raymarine ST60) pedestal guard
> enclosure. However, I’m missing the gaskets that fit between the pod and
> the pedestal guard, that incorporate the seal for the cable exit (hope that
> makes sense). The Navpod guys, Ocean Equipment, aren’t much help – they
> don’t stock gaskets for this discontinued product and they didn’t respond
> to the question as to whether or not another model has a compatible gasket
> (so I’m thinking the answer is no).
>
>
>
> Does anyone out there have a set of gaskets sitting in their parts bin? Or
> should I just make some up out of neoprene?
>
>
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C 27 MkIII
>
> --
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

The scupper thru-hulls were the only ones I left alone on Suhana. I
replaced all else with seacocks, new backing plates and new thru-hulls.
Like yours, mine were flush mounted. The stuff on the market is smaller so
I filled the remaining gap with thickened epoxy, mostly successful (looks a
bit off but you barely notice). I would recommend just filling the counter
sunk hole and mounting standard mushroom thru-hulls, seems easier and more
straightforward.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 7:44 PM, Rick Bushie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anchovy got all new through hull fittings and proper seacocks four years
> ago. I bought everything, including flush fitting through hulls from Deep
> Blue Yacht Supply. I used a small diamond cutting wheel on my Rotozip to
> cut out the old fittings.
>
> Rick Bushie
> Anchovy, 30-1, Hull 1
> Worton, MD.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Electric fuel pump switch.
Brilliant!

Thanks Joe!
I've decided on the Newport Diesel bulkhead job. It's going to end up
looking something like this (thought the heater in the pic is the propane
version):

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
with a day tank up and behind in the hanging locker.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 9:36 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would think twice, three times, and four times before adding any kind of
> combustion heater to a gasoline powered boat. Not only can the heater
> itself suck gasoline fumes into itself, any of the associated controls and
> fans might or might not be ignition protected. I know, like every other C
> ever made with an Atomic 4, I cook below with an open flame, but that is a
> bit different. Most of us would not start the stove if we smelled gasoline
> fumes and most of us are not leaving the stove run all night while we
> sleep.
>
> If I were to do this, I would start by having the heater well away from
> the engine and mounted as high as possible. Make sure the heater is about
> the LAST place in the boat gas fumes would end up.
>
> Second step would be to install a gasoline fume detector and make sure it
> is on whenever the heater is on.
>
> Third step is do rig your engine to run the gas out of the carb at
> shutdown. When I am done with the engine for the day I switch off my
> electric fuel pump and let the engine run the gas out of the carb and line.
> This prevents the issue of a stuck needle-valve slowly filling the carb
> overnight and dispersing fumes. A side benefit is the carb lasts much much
> longer before it needs cleaning.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Graham
> Collins via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 07, 2016 19:23
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Graham Collins
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>
>
>
> Hi Bill
>
> It might be worth contacting Espar about it, I don't think that should be
> running like that.  The D5 I'm running is a fair sized unit, and startup
> has never been a big power hit.
>
> Graham Collins
>
> Secret Plans
>
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-02-06 5:17 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Graham,
>Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner
> installed in port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well done,
> but he told me about current draw and starting engine to get it going.
> After its running seems to do fine off twin house batteries.
> Bill Walker
> CnC  36
> Pentwater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>
> --
>
> On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is clear
> of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to the
> main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have flammable
> vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...
>
> And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two
> while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be
> adequate.
>
> I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off
> batteries all the time and have never had an issue.
>
> Graham Collins
>
> Secret Plans
>
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I'm reading the marine installation manual
> <http://www.esparofmichigan.com/techsupport/pdfs/Marine%20installations/Airtronic%20marine_installation_manual.pdf>
> and have some questions:
>
>
>
> - Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not
> allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline
> tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of
> these?
>
>
>
> - Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small
> that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the
> lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hi Russ,
>
>
>
> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind
> the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the
> espar/webasto, it's in t

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Ok, so it looks like I shouldn't be installing one of these in the engine
compartment of my gasoline powered boat:

Warning - Explosion Hazard
1. Heater must be turned off while re-fueling.
2. Do not install heater in enclosed areas where combustible fumes may be
present.
*3. Do not install heaters in engine compartments of gasoline powered
boats.*

Boo.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 6:43 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've never needed to start the engine to get the Espar to start.  It has
> always started and run fine off the batteries.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 6 February 2016 at 14:52, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is
>> clear of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to
>> the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have
>> flammable vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...
>>
>> And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two
>> while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be
>> adequate.
>>
>> I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off
>> batteries all the time and have never had an issue.
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> I'm reading the marine installation manual
>> <http://www.esparofmichigan.com/techsupport/pdfs/Marine%20installations/Airtronic%20marine_installation_manual.pdf>
>> and have some questions:
>>
>> - Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not
>> allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline
>> tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of
>> these?
>>
>> - Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small
>> that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the
>> lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Russ,
>>>
>>> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere
>>> behind the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely).
>>> With the espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the
>>> newport, this is pretty much how i have to mount it:
>>>
>>> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
>>>
>>> Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't
>>> optimal either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the
>>> venting, I'm not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C 32
>>> Toronto
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Steve,
>>>>
>>>> I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the
>>>> Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>>>>
>>>> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge
>>>> advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral
>>>> & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>>>>
>>>> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper
>>>> venting is the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
>>>> tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that
>>>> gravity feed is not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a
>>>> little impulse pump similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about
>>>> putting the tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and easy
>>>> to fit a deck fill to keep everything outside. Either heater would like a 2
>>>> - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day use in cold
>>>> conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>>>>
>>>> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will
>>>> have both types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best.

Re: Stus-List Diesel heaters

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Thanks for that Len. I don't have a propane system on my boat. It's looking
like a bulkhead mounted diesel fireplace style heater is the only practical
option at this point, with a day tank. I have a gasoline powered A4 and no
propane system on board.

We're at Bay Moorings. Lovely up there. Really looking forward to this
season.
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 12:32 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Steve, I didn't read back too far, did you look at a propane bulkhead
> heater/fireplace? Been sailing GB forever with no special heater. I
> infrequently use a small electric ceramic cube heater at the dock with
> shore power spring and fall but I don't have a bird on board to worry
> about. Consider mosquito and black fly screen in May/June! It's only a
> degree or two colder than Toronto but the bugs are fierce.
>
> Len Mitchell
> Midland On
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm reading the marine installation manual
<http://www.esparofmichigan.com/techsupport/pdfs/Marine%20installations/Airtronic%20marine_installation_manual.pdf>
and have some questions:

- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not allow
exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline tank
in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of
these?

- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small that
I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the
lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Russ,
>
> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind
> the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the
> espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this
> is pretty much how i have to mount it:
>
> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
>
> Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't optimal
> either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the venting, I'm
> not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the Newport
>> heater. It can be tricky.
>>
>> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge
>> advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral
>> & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>>
>> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper venting
>> is the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The tank can
>> be almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that gravity
>> feed is not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a little
>> impulse pump similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about putting the
>> tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and easy to fit a deck
>> fill to keep everything outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
>> tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day use in cold conditions
>> maybe a bit less for the D2.
>>
>> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will
>> have both types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>>
>> Cheers, Russ
>> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>> Vancouver Island
>>
>>
>> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>
>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I like
>> the idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my favourite
>> things. But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove types,
>> which are super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have
>> drawbacks on a boat. The espar is appealing because it's out of the way.
>> The problem for me with the diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4
>> powered boat and one thing I really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater would necessitate a gravity
>> tank somewhere inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, maybe in the
>> hanging locker. I'm concerned about the diesel smell. Most of what I've
>> read about them is good however and to your point, maybe more heat than the
>> D2, less money for sure. It's still an option, will my boat smell like
>> diesel?Â
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use a propane tent heater
>> the warms the cabin for 6 hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat.
>> It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine
>> evening.Â
>>
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> PO Box 632
>> Newport, RIÂ
>> USA 02840
>>
>> +401 965Â 5260
>>
>>
>> On Feb 5, 2016, at 17:29, William Walker via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Steve,
>>   I have an espar  installed by po, no problems in five years.  But,
>> do

Re: Stus-List Looking at a second boat - must be out of my mind!

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm a compulsive yachtworld window shopper, so I'm an expert on pictures of
boats. I really like the Hylas 44 :)

Congrats!

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:21 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> wow Joel!  that is a serious boat!  good luck!!
>
> I imagine you'd do a straight shot home? figure on 6 days maybe?
>
> great way to start the season!!
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robert Boyer 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at a second boat - must be out of my mind!
> Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:44:11 -0500
>
> I've known several cruisers with a Hylas 44--great boats!  Congrats,
> Joel!!!
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
>
> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Congrats!
> On Feb 5, 2016 4:32 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> The admiral and I have been talking about selling my C someday and
>> buying a boat that is more comfortable to cruise. I've been watching a
>> Hylas 44 on Yachtworld. After a recent price reduction we made a ridiculous
>> offer that was accepted, so we are headed to Miami this weekend. If we like
>> her and she has no major issues (beyond what the broker told us) the plan
>> is to bring her to Annapolis late March, do the Bermuda race on The Office
>> and then put The Office up for sale.
>>
>> Anyone sail a Hylas 44?
>> Anyone want to buy a C 35/3?
>> Anyone up for a delivery (she has a full cockpit enclosure)?
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I like
the idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my favourite
things. But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove types,
which are super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have
drawbacks on a boat. The espar is appealing because it's out of the way.
The problem for me with the diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4
powered boat and one thing I really like about my boat is that it doesn't
smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater would necessitate a gravity
tank somewhere inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, maybe in the
hanging locker. I'm concerned about the diesel smell. Most of what I've
read about them is good however and to your point, maybe more heat than the
D2, less money for sure. It's still an option, will my boat smell like
diesel?

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use a propane tent heater the
> warms the cabin for 6 hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat. It
> takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine evening.
>
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
>
>
> Andrew Burton
> PO Box 632
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
>
> +401 965 5260
>
>
> On Feb 5, 2016, at 17:29, William Walker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Steve,
>   I have an espar  installed by po, no problems in five years.  But, does
> have significant current draw at start up.  I need to start engine to fire
> up unless on shore power.  After it gets going no problem.  Outlet in main
> cabin, v berth  and head.
> Bill Walker
> Pentwater Mi
> CnC  36
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>
> --
> On Friday, February 5, 2016 Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running one
> on a 32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The
> literature indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet of boat, so it sounds like I
> need the D4 :(
>
> My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the season, not living aboard
> in the winter. The boat is two hours away so there will be "maintenance"
> trips in the spring and fall which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite
> cold up there.
>
> I have to keep the temps warm for the boat parrot who'll be living aboard
> with us while we cruise. We're planning three weeks in August this year so
> it shouldn't be too much of an issue but it gets cold up there at night,
> even in August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold summer nights but I
> have ideas about maybe cruising the North Channel when the fall colours are
> out. I don't want to limit myself. At the same time, I don't want to spend
> money that could go elsewhere.
>
> The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters are pretty but I hear they
> don't make quite enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, but don't
> want to be disappointed. Everyone says the Espar and Webastos are best.
>
> I'de be doing the installation myself in any case so am eager to hear from
> others who have gone through it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___ Email address:
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Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running one
on a 32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The
literature indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet of boat, so it sounds like I
need the D4 :(

My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the season, not living aboard
in the winter. The boat is two hours away so there will be "maintenance"
trips in the spring and fall which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite
cold up there.

I have to keep the temps warm for the boat parrot who'll be living aboard
with us while we cruise. We're planning three weeks in August this year so
it shouldn't be too much of an issue but it gets cold up there at night,
even in August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold summer nights but I
have ideas about maybe cruising the North Channel when the fall colours are
out. I don't want to limit myself. At the same time, I don't want to spend
money that could go elsewhere.

The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters are pretty but I hear they
don't make quite enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, but don't
want to be disappointed. Everyone says the Espar and Webastos are best.

I'de be doing the installation myself in any case so am eager to hear from
others who have gone through it.

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Thanks Ken, after doing some more reading it sounds like their 26 foot
recommendation for the D2 is for a power boat, which of course is more
voluminous than my old C :)

>From searching this list it sounds like a single outlet into the cabin
works best. Curious if any other 32 owners have installed a forced air
diesel and how they routed the install.

Cheers,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto




On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:25 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our Espar D4 will bring the entire boat interior up to a comfortable
> temperature when the boat is out of the water on its cradle and the
> temperature outside is below freezing. This is a 39' 6" C 37 XL with a
> fairly roomy aft cabin.
>
> I expect you can get away with a D2 on a 32.
>
> Ken Heaton
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>
> On 5 February 2016 at 15:41, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running
>> one on a 32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The
>> literature indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet of boat, so it sounds like I
>> need the D4 :(
>>
>> My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the season, not living aboard
>> in the winter. The boat is two hours away so there will be "maintenance"
>> trips in the spring and fall which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite
>> cold up there.
>>
>> I have to keep the temps warm for the boat parrot who'll be living aboard
>> with us while we cruise. We're planning three weeks in August this year so
>> it shouldn't be too much of an issue but it gets cold up there at night,
>> even in August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold summer nights but I
>> have ideas about maybe cruising the North Channel when the fall colours are
>> out. I don't want to limit myself. At the same time, I don't want to spend
>> money that could go elsewhere.
>>
>> The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters are pretty but I hear they
>> don't make quite enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, but don't
>> want to be disappointed. Everyone says the Espar and Webastos are best.
>>
>> I'de be doing the installation myself in any case so am eager to hear
>> from others who have gone through it.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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