Stus-List Email change

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Stu, Since I bought a new C I need to change my email from 
svpegasu...@gmail.com tosvrebeccal...@gmail.com
ThanksDoug Mountjoy. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39___

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Re: Stus-List Battery Equalizer Solution?

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Lee,My experience with stuff to make something last longer is nothing but snake 
oil. Works for a short time then failure. Being a mechanic, my saying has 
always been. Pay me now or PAY me more later. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39
 Original message From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/26/18  11:16  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC-List 
 Cc: Lee Youngblood  
Subject: Stus-List Battery Equalizer Solution? 
Hi All,

Any one used this Battery Equalizer solution?  
https://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/fluid/BE12oz.html

Snake oil or useful?

Thanks, Lee
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Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Same with Washington. State. Just have to display the state sticker on 
documented vessels. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39
 Original message From: schiller via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/25/18  13:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center" 

Michigan requires that you display the Michigan
  Registration sticker on documented boats.  You will get a
  registration number when you register the boat but you do not have
  to display them.  Before I renewed the documentation on Corsair
  (Redwing 35), I displayed the registration numbers on a plastic
  panels hung from the bow lifelines.  Michigan has now outlawed
  that so I documented Corsair.  I hate putting registration numbers
  on the fiberglass bow.  Grace (C 35-3) already had
  registration numbers on the bow and has never been documented.

  

  Interestingly enough, the water cops all think any boat over 25'
  that doesn't display registration numbers must be documented so
  they don't check.  Even if they aren't displaying the registration
  sticker.

  

  Neil Schiller

  Old: 1970 Redwing 35 (C 35, Mark I), Hull #7

  New: 1983 C 35-3, #028

  White Lake, Michigan

  WLYC



On 1/25/2018 4:13 PM, Jack Brennan via
  CnC-List wrote:



  
  
  
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}

  


  

  
Florida
  has a wonderful discount for “antique” vessels at least 30
  years old.
  
  
 
  
  
I
  think I pay $5 a year – as opposed to maybe $135 – because
  I sail a good old boat. Florida also requires a state
  decal for federally documented vessels such as mine, by
  the way.
  
  
 
  
  Jack Brennan
  Former C 25
  Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30

Tierra Verde, Fl.
  

  
From: Matthew
L. Wolford via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 3:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List "Maritime
  Documentation Center"
  

 
  
  

  
Yes, it’s a sore subject for PA boaters on Lake
  Erie.  The law was changed several years ago to
  require State registration of Federally documented
  recreational vessels.  Registrations last two years,
  then must be renewed.  I don’t put my stickers on the
  bow, but they are affixed to fiberglass supports (port
  and starboard) for the main traveler and are clearly
  visible.  Don’t want to give my good friends at the
  PFBC another reason to board.

  
 
 
  

  

  

  
  


  

  
  Virus-free. www.avast.com 

  

 
  

  
  

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Re: Stus-List West Marine is So Funny

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Gotta love some people's/companies intelligence. Lol. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39
 Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/27/17  09:58  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Randy Stafford  
Subject: Stus-List West Marine is So Funny 
To take advantage of West Marine’s 50% off sale on yacht braid, I asked for a 
new set of spinnaker sheets for Christmas.  Gave my family the exact specs, 
links to the web page, etc.  Here it is verbatim from an email on 11/24/17:
I would like to get some new spinnaker sheets for Grenadine.
West Marine is having a 50% off sale on yacht braid through Monday: 
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/new-england-ropes--solid-color-sta-set-polyester-yacht-braid--P002_071_001_004
Here are the specifications of what I would like:* 60 feet of 3/8”, solid 
green* 60 feet of 3/8”, solid red
At the sale price of $0.79 per foot, that’s $47 per sheet.
You can order online from West Marine’s website, and ship for free to the local 
West Marine store for pickup.
So, I open the gift on Christmas morning, and my daughters have to explain to 
me that West Marine sent all 60 feet of the green line, but only 14 feet of the 
red line.  They’ll ship the remaining 46 feet of the red line separately, 
according to their shipping statement :)  Lol.
Happy New Year,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO___

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Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

You can go into the plotter and change the baud rate. I had same problem on my 
S-H 390. If I remember correctly ( highly unlikely), you want something around 
3600 baud rate for the ais. MILLTECH marine is a great source for all things 
AIS. I bought Rebecca Leah from Doug Miller the owner of MILLTECH MARINE.  
https://www.milltechmarine.com/infopage.asp?page=1


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39
 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 Date: 12/19/17  07:44  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring 


The AIS is also connected to OpenCPN and it works fine. The data is definitely 
coming out of the AIS unit. The AIS is a GPS receiver as well and sends AIS and
 GPS data out of the 38.4K port. Usually a GPS will send the satellites in view 
and their signal strength, but the Digital Yacht unit is not doing this. The 
plotter will read 4800 baud data, but the AIS will not send AIS data from that 
port, only GPS. I think
 S-H needs to update the firmware to fix this issue.
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2017 10:38 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Joel Aronson 

Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring
 

Joe

 


Have you tried connecting the AIS to a PC running OpenCPN or something similar 
to test the AIS box?  


 


Why would the AIS send out GPS sat signals?


 


Waterproof boxes look nice.


 


I've got my Daisy2 AIS receiver connected to my onboard PC.  Amazing how many 
boats leave their AIS on all winter!  Must have had 50 targets Sunday, and only 
1 tug was moving.


 


Joel



 

On Tue, Dec 19, 2017 at 10:29 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I have hit a snag with my project. My CP180 plotter is refusing to take AIS 
input on any NMEA port.

The firmware version is from 2008, so I think I'll be sending it back to S-H 
for a firmware upgrade. This will cost about $35, which

IMHO is quite reasonable and also a nice contrast to brand R, which tends to 
tell you "buy a new one"
 as the answer to any issue with any old equipment.

Another issue is not a big deal but just odd, the AIS seems to not be sending 
out the GPS per satellite signal quality string. On the computer and the 
plotter I can see the position and HDOP just fine, but no individual satellite 
signal levels.
On the good news side, the waterproof junction boxes and glands I got from 
Amazon are working out well.
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13144=1=1513609581
 
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I




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-- 

Joel 

301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Try this propellor calculator. rbbi.com/folders/prop/propcalc.htm


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39
 Original message From: Bunky via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/17/17  14:18  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bunky  Subject: 
Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH 
Luna is a 1984 C 35 with a Yanmar 3gm30 engine. Does anyone know what 
the proper propeller pitch should be? She has an aftermarket Maxiprop, 
and based on engine performance, I believe the pitch may be set too high.

Richard
Luna, Lake Champlain, VT

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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

A friend had a similar installation on his 23 footer. Used the VHB4991 tape and 
the Dow 495, that w asss 20 years ago. Still no leaks. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39 
 Original message From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/15/17  10:35  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Steve Thomas  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Window replacement 
My C has windows that are glued and screwed directly on the surface of the 
cabin. There is no cavity, and no visible sealant, and yes they leak. I suspect 
that they were glued down with Plexus or something similar, but I wish that 
whoever did it had left out the screws. Anyway,

Has anyone attempted this sort of on-the-surface installation using VHB tape? 
Seems there would be very little room for sealant. Maybe have to use an exposed 
fillet?

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I also used the 4991 tape for the expansion properties of the fiberglass vs 
plexiglass.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39
 Original message From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/14/17  12:55  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Gary Russell  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Window replacement 
Note:  I used VHB 4991 (0.090"), not 4941.Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Thu, Dec 14, 2017 at 1:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
This might be why 3M recommends the 5952:
Creates a permanent seal against water, moisture and more by offering better 
gap filling capabilitiesThat's in the 5952 description on the 3M site.  It does 
not appear in the 4941 description.  Could be the 5952 is more closed cell foam 
than the 4941.
Dennis C.

On Thu, Dec 14, 2017 at 12:41 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:




Incidentally, I noted in a previous e-mail that a 3M rep I talked to (by 
calling in) recommended 5952 over 4941.  I just inquired again – this time 
by e-mail.  3M responded that that it recommends the 59XX series for this 
application.  For what it’s worth.





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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I figure 1 tube per side. All depends on gap and application technique.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah  Lf39
 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 Date: 12/14/17  11:03  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Window replacement 



Last question:  will one tube of caulking do four windows?


 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2017 1:51 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window replacement
 

This might be why 3M recommends the 5952: 
 


  Creates 
  a permanent seal against water, moisture and more by offering better gap 
  filling capabilitiesThat's in the 5952 description on the 3M site.  It 
does not appear in the 4941 description.  Could be the 5952 is more closed 
cell foam than the 4941.


Dennis C.


 
On Thu, Dec 14, 2017 at 12:41 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via 
CnC-List  wrote:


  
  
  
  Incidentally, I noted in a previous e-mail that a 3M rep I talked to (by 
  calling in) recommended 5952 over 4941.  I just inquired again – this 
  time by e-mail.  3M responded that that it recommends the 59XX series for 
  this application.  For what it’s worth.
  
  
  



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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

3/16 to 1/4 all the way around. I also bevel the the plexiglass a little. 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39
 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 12/14/17  03:03  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Window replacement 



Thanks.  3/16 to 1/4 inch total (adding half that amount top 
and bottom, and side to side) or that much space all around (which is clearly 
more than my existing windows)? 


 

From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2017 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: svpegasus38 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window replacement
 

When I did the windows on both of my boats I tried for 3/16 to 1/4 inch gap 
around the plexiglass.  It will expand quite a bit when warmed by the sun. 
I also tried to get everything sealed before the sun hit the plexiglass because 
of the expansion. 
On my LF38 companion way I installed 1/2 thick plexiglass doors. At 
night  there was an 1/8 in gap. The doors would over lap by roughly 1/8+ 
when the sun hit them. 
 
 
 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE 
Device
Doug Mountjoy 
POYC 
Rebecca Leah  
Lf39
 
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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

When I did the windows on both of my boats I tried for 3/16 to 1/4 inch gap 
around the plexiglass.  It will expand quite a bit when warmed by the sun. I 
also tried to get everything sealed before the sun hit the plexiglass because 
of the expansion. On my LF38 companion way I installed 1/2 thick plexiglass 
doors. At night  there was an 1/8 in gap. The doors would over lap by roughly 
1/8+ when the sun hit them. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah  Lf39
 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 Date: 12/13/17  19:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Window replacement 



Thanks, Gary.
 
So in your view the sealant needs to not only fill the seam between the 
edge of the plexi and the boat, but also work behind the plexi a bit.  Is 
the pressure of a caulking gun sufficient to get this done?  On my boat, 
the plexi is tightly fitted into the cavity.  Perhaps I should leave a 
little more room with the replacement plexi?


 

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2017 9:38 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window replacement
 

Matthew, 
 Remember that the VHB tape is only the adhesive, 
not the sealant.  You need to leave room for the Dow Corning 795 black 
silicone sealant.  To me, 1/4" for the sealant seems about right.  
That leaves room for about 1/2" of VHB tape.
 
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

 

~~~_/)~~


 
On Wed, Dec 13, 2017 at 8:28 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via 
CnC-List  wrote:

Listers:

   
  I know this topic has been covered ad nauseum, but I have two questions about 
  window replacement:

   1)  It appears that most of you 
  who have done the VHB tape method like 3M 4941 instead of 5952.  However, 
  when I contacted 3M and explained what I was using it for, 5952 was 
  recommended.  Any thoughts or comments on this?

   
  2)  It appears fairly well settled that 1/2" width is preferred (maybe 
  due to Don Casey), yet some of you have mentioned coloring the area behind 
the 
  window that is not taped to improve the appearance.  The window "cavity" 
  (for lack of a better term) for my windows sit is 3/4" all the way around 
  (except for possibly the rounded corners).  Why shouldn't I just use 3/4" 
  wide tape?

   Have at it, and thanks. 
  

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  PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


 


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Re: Stus-List C emblem

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I would use the same tape just thinner, the last 2 places in the part number is 
the thickness. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39. 
 Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/10/17  10:07  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC 
discussion list  Cc: David Knecht 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C emblem 
Any suggestions on which VHB tape is the right one to use in this application?  
I presume it would be thinner than what you would use for window installation?  
Thanks- Dave
On Dec 10, 2017, at 2:04 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:
Hey folk,
I know that there has been mixed attempts by me and others to makr replacement 
emblems/badges for our boats.  I've been holding out for a laser engraved look 
and finally found a local fab shop that now has an epilog laser engraver.  I'm 
currently working to get prototypes made.  Thanks to Gary Russell I already had 
a great foundation to start with he had made 3D and 2D CAD files for his own 
badge project.
I'm looking to get a 24"x12" piece of 316 SS in a mirror finish cut down to 
24"x2.5".  This size will cover the existing scar which will need filled and 
fared.  I'll use VHB tape to attach the badge, much like on cars.  The 
background will be laser eched to leave the characters mirrored.  I've 
attempted to mock up what it will look like in the link below.  I'll keep 
everyone posted as the project progresses.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1KI8v0vBxinJAIBF7ZWV88wbDthptr57H


Cheers,
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD 
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Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List C 40 for sale

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Andy, Nice add. Beautiful boat, too bad I just bought a new one and I am not 
looking to get a wife. I did notice a  mistake. You have sails being checked in 
2018. Good luck on selling her. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/9/17  07:22  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton  Subject: 
Stus-List C 40 for sale 
Good morning, all. My wife has a web site up to help sell Peregrine.I think I 
have her priced very reasonably (Peregrine, not my wife...though, come to think 
of it...no...just Peregrine). I would be interested in any input from the 
assembled group.I will be sorry to part with her, but the new boat has extra 
cabins for kids and parents that my wife wants. I hate to leave the fold, 
though. Maybe Danny, Bruno, and I can show up at rendezvous as sort of 
auxiliary C?https://aburtonsailor.wixsite.com/peregrine
CheersAndyC 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA    02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260___

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Re: Stus-List White non skid decks

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Grey paint. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Rebecca Leah 
LF39 
 Original message From: Rod Stright via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/22/17  12:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rod Stright  Subject: Stus-List 
White non skid decks 
Just pressure washed the deck on my new to me C 99.  Man they look great but 
as soon as you step on the non skid it looks dirty and is difficult to clean. 
Anybody got any tips for keeping the white non skid decks clean and/or easier 
to clean? Rod2004 C 99













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Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Use Dow Corning 495 to seal after installing plexiglass with the VHB. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (sale pending) 
Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/21/17  15:28  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dave Godwin , Scott Baker 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights 
Hola Scott.
I am getting ready to do the same thing on my boat for the second time. It’s a 
1982 vintage 37’ which has four ports as opposed to two like yours. 
I replaced the originals around 1998 and have these observations:
1.) I took the originals into a shop that re-created the originals, right 
down to the tint.
2.) Per their advice I used silicone to attach and seal the new ports. I will 
_never_ do that again.
3.) As far as tint is concerned, don’t make it too difficult; go with any shade 
that you are comfortable with.
What’s going on now:I just dropped off my second set of ports off to be 
duplicated. I took their recommendation on tint color (“it’s what everyone 
uses...”). No matter what shade you use, it will not mask the difference 
between the rim and the opening. You will see through it. If you are using 
silicone...
They recommended silicone yet again. I ignored that. I will use VHB this time 
around. Silicone to “finish” the gap per Boatworks example.
I will be picking the new ports up at the end of this month (I’m currently in 
Punta del Este, UR) and then I will install them. The ambient temperatures in 
my area will be in the low fifties to high forties Fahrenheit. I have no 
concerns about temperature.
I would not worry about “curvature” issues. That was not a problem the first 
time I did the job.
As far as finishing the fiberglass surround after hacking out the Plexus, I 
have no words of wisdom. I am totally rebuilding my boat and the port openings 
have been completely repaired and painted. You might want to use some Awlfair 
to smooth the surface and then paint it. The VHB seems to be a fairly good 
masking background from the examples I have seen. If you want to see pictures, 
Google “Ronin Rebuild”.
IMHO, do not even think about drilling holes or using screws.
Keep it simple. ;-)
Cheers,Dave Godwin1982 C 37 - “Ronin”Reedville, VA

Sent from my iPad
On Nov 21, 2017, at 18:59, Scott Baker via CnC-List  
wrote:









Hi All,
I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how to 
search through the archives to find the advice I need.
I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace my 
portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.

Some background and my questions:
~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature in 
them.

~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape from 
3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8=2=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the curvature 
issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace them 
in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later? Solutions?
~I’m afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures 
because of the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear?
~I’ve done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a 
different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of. Andy 
points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to see 
in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up… Yes?
~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old windows.

~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones… so 
therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal of 
these windows without hacking everything up?
~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I need to 
wait until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old 
windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the spring?
Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C site, I’d 
love to be edumacated!
Sorry for beating this dead horse.
~Scott Baker
 



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to send 

Re: Stus-List Refrigeration Wiring

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Darn, and here I was hoping for fudge. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (sale pending) 
Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/20/17  16:23  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: bwhitmore  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Refrigeration Wiring 
Darn spell check!  The fridge, not fudge...  ;)


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/20/17  6:55 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: bwhitmore  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Refrigeration Wiring 
Hi Ed,
The fudge in my 1994 C 37/40+ draws no more than 5 to 7 amps.  It's entirely 
possible that I missed your prior posts for background, but please feel free to 
contact me off list if I can provide insights.
Bruce Whitmore
847.404.5092
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/20/17  5:38 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List  Cc: Edd Schillay  
Subject: Stus-List Refrigeration Wiring 
Listers,
As it is wired now (probably by the previous owner), the only way to switch on 
the refrigerator on the Enterprise is to open up the Ship’s Circuits panel and 
flip on the circuit breaker deep inside. As the fridge is high amps, I can 
understand the need to go through extra steps to turn it on or off, but I was 
looking to do something more convenient. 
So here’s the plan:
Since the compressor itself is located in a locker adjacent to the galley, I 
was thinking of putting a flip-open-covered blue LED push button latching 
ON-OFF switch in the galley, which would then activate a relay, which, when the 
button is pressed, would connect the positive lead to the fridge compressor. 
Here is the switch: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EJWVBPS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8=1
 
Here is the cover: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TK0WFEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8=1
 

It looks like the switch can handle the loads without burning out, but I think 
I’m best off getting a relay as well. I like the idea of the cover so it can’t 
accidentally be bumped into, turned on and drain the battery during a long day 
of sailing. 
Any thoughts? Sound like a good plan? Am I missing something? 


All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log











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Re: Stus-List Hard paint vs. ablative

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Congrats on the new boat. In Washington you cannot clean ablative paint. I only 
use ablative paint. Although the racer friends use hard paint. A good friend 
swears by petit Trinidad hard paint. I have used micron 66, blue water copper 
shield both with excellent results. Practical sailor has done several reviews 
on both types bottom paint. What I like about the ablative paints is you don't 
need to clean the bottom if you use your boat. Another consideration is what is 
currently on it. You can put ablative over hard paint but not hard over 
ablative. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (sale pending) 
Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Kyle Davis via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/13/17  09:50  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Kyle Davis  Subject: 
Stus-List Hard paint vs. ablative 
Greetings all,New owner of C 26. My diver says I need new paint for sure. 
I’ve never dealt with bottom paint before. I live in Washington, where the 
environmental restrictions are extensive. Looking for guidance on the best 
paint. I read, quite a few years ago, about hard and ablative. Based on that, I 
think I’m leaning toward hard but all input is welcome.
Tentatively calling the boat Killian. It’s never been named and My first 
grandson is named Killian.
Thanks,Kyle Davis
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Stus-List Offer on Pegasus.

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Finally got an offer on Pegasus. I hope I am not jumping the gun on this.  She 
is hopefully going to a younger couple, who are new to boating. I am sure they 
will be lurking around on the list asking tons of questions. Help them out, as 
I know everyone will. I have offered tech support, because who knows a boat 
better than the previous owner.  
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (sale 
pending)Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 ___

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Re: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I have heard that if you have non marine rated hoses and have an insurance 
claim. That it can be denied. I just filed a claim for a car fire the fuel hose 
did not last long. FWIW. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (For sale)Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 Date: 11/9/17  08:38  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses 


Non-marine hose may well work to keep fuel inside of itself, but auto hose in 
general isn’t even close to the fire resistance of marine hose. Airplane hoses 
have fire-sleeves over them and marine hose is about
 3-4 times as thick as it needs to be so there is a lot of rubber to burn away 
before it would have a hole in it. Auto hose has neither.
 
Joe
Coquina
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 11:36 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Rick Brass 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses


 
Well, you should be using only SAE fuel hose. And the specs are the same 
regardless of the manufacturer. So use whatever is less expensive.
 
You might even get a price on hose – probably Gates Rubber – from your local 
NAPA store. Since it’s not “Boat Hose” it’s probably significantly less than 
either WM or Defender.
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of John and Maryann Read via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, November 7, 2017 9:23 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: John and Maryann Read 

Subject: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses


 
Removed my OEM aluminum diesel tank now 35 years old.  Exterior looks great but 
interior shows a number of corrosion issues.  Had to remove fittings and saw 
off the inlet fitting to get the tank out of the locker so was committed when I
 did that to getting a new tank.  That said, the hidden corrosion on the 
interior tells me an incident was in the making so replacing now is a good idea.

 
Have replacement aluminum tank made by Luther’s in Bristol RI who by all 
accounts are the “go to” source for a tank made right in all respects.  Not the 
least expensive by any stretch but by far the best value or so they say
J
 
Question is replacing the hoses.  West carries the Shields brand, Defender the 
Trident at a cost differential of some 20% less in price.  Specifications are 
essentially identical.  Any reason to not embrace the lower price??
 
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
 

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Re: Stus-List diesel additive

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I use Soltron. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 11/5/17  08:02  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List diesel additive 
I use Stanadyne Lubricity Formula. Touché has a Racor water separating filter 
and an Algae-X for all the junk. 
Dennis C.Touché 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA 

Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 4, 2017, at 7:08 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

I use OptiLube XPD.  It is supposed to be the best lubricity additive.  As for 
the biofouling I just keep water out and the fuel fresh.  Gelling occurs in 
weather which I choose not to sail.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD


On Sat, Nov 4, 2017, 4:36 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I know this has been brought up before, but I did want to check if new info out 
there.Besides the water/microbe problem, we now have the low sulfur fuel as 
well.  And it seems like there was a third item as well which I can't remember 
right now.  Oh yes, the gelling problem in cold weather.Some additives from the 
past might not help with the low sulfur.So, are folks using one all 
encompassing additive, or a combination of previous ones with a low sulfur 
additive thrown in as well?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL
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Re: Stus-List PFD sale

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I got 2 myself. Great price. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 Date: 11/1/17  21:58  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List PFD sale 



Figured out the coupon code issue.  My apologies.  Thanks for the 
heads-up.


 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2017 10:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List PFD sale
 




We have 2 of these.

This week the Defender 1st 
exclusive offer is an incredible value.  The
USCG approved Crewsaver 
Crewfit 35 Sport Inflatable PFDs are available
in both manual and 
automatic models. They incorporate Crewsaver's
"Fusion" 3D technology, so 
the PFD molds to the shape of your body.  Its
form-fitting neckline 
offers complete freedom of movement and maximizes
comfort. These life 
jackets feature 35 lbs. of buoyancy. The built-in,
unique chin support keeps 
your head tilted back so airways remain clear.
Its bladder will turn you 
on your back, and support your head. The
Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport can be fitted with a personal 
AIS device for
added safety, and all lifejackets include a light 
attachment point,
which is essential if you are making a long voyage or 
night passage.

The Crewsaver Crewfit 35 
Sport Inflatable PFDs are available in (3)
colors: Red, Blue and 
Navy.

Hurry! This offer is limited to stock on hand, so get 
yours while
supplies last!

Check out all the details 
and get the AC code at the link below.

Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport 
USCG Inflatable PFD Manual Activation:
$34.99. (Special Buy Price: $74.99, Regularly: $119.99, 
List: $149.99)

Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport 
USCG Inflatable PFD Automatic Activation:
$39.99 (Special Buy Price: 
$79.99, Regularly: $131.99, List: $165.99)

Special ends: November 7, 2017 at 11:59 PM ET

Get the special price and learn more at:
http://www.defender.com/activecaptain.jsp

Wow, you will not find a great price like anywhere. 
Ensure your crew is
safe, you can't afford not to. But hurry supplies are 
limited.

 -- 

Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I couldn't agree more. There is deffenetly something fishy here. Nothing adds 
up. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39
 Original message From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/31/17  13:39  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah 
From: Marek Dziedzic 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2017 20:09:55 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah








I almost think that we give them too much attention
 
Marek


Indeed. I was at the dentist today and when I mentioned I'm into sailing, the 
dental hygienist asked if I had heard of the two lost sailors. And that 
apparently they had some electronic gizmo ("epirb" I said). 
When your dental hygienist has heard of them but probably never heard of 
Clipper, America's Cup, or Slocum, it's definitely a bit ridiculous (how easily 
manipulated the media and public attention are). 

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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List News story

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

How do you get stranded on an "otherwise functional sailboat"? The engine is 
called auxiliary for a reason!! Just asking. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF 39
 Original message From: John Pennie via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/26/17  16:01  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Pennie  Subject: 
Stus-List News story 
Ok, wtf? Story on news tonight about a sailboat that was stranded in the 
Pacific for 5months after their engine broke down on an otherwise functional 
boat.  Apparently the crew survived as they had a water maker and a year’s 
supply of oatmeal.  Something not add up here?  And who really has a 1 year 
supply of oatmeal for two people and a dog? 

Gotta be more coming on this one...

John


Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Serial number

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Just checked Rebecca Leah's HIN, she was built in 87 sold as an 1988. Is the 
letter before the last 3 numbers the month the hull was molded or the model? 
She  is a Landfall 39. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale, 
STILL)Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39. 
 Original message From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/24/17  06:48  (GMT-08:00) To: C 
 Cc: Jack Fitzgerald  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Serial number 
The H is for July. The boat was built in July of 1984 as a 1985 model. 
We are now shipping new yachts and small boats from the USA with the last 3 
digits as 718. Built in 2017 as 2018 model year boats.
Best regards,
Jack FitzgeraldHONEY - C 39TMUS12788



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All contributions are greatly appreciated!





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All contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List New Stripin g...

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I used a heat gun, and plastic scraper to remove my old graphics, to remove the 
old glue I used Ez-off oven cleaner (the lemon stuff) and a green scratchy pad. 
Worked great. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 Date: 10/17/17  08:14  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List New Stripin g... 



Somebody makes a spray-on graphics remover that I used a few years 
ago.  It worked well as I recall, although multiple applications were 
required for some of the more tenacious areas.  Unfortunately, I can’t 
remember the name of the stuff.  Someone on the list may know.


 

From: David via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 10:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Stripin g...
 


Andy,
 
Thanks but I speak of overlaying the stripes/stars and not the name and 
hailing port.  It seems that getting the striping out of the recesses will 
be much harder than the flush surface name/hailing. 
 
Did you remove the striping with scraper and heat gun/hair dryer as 
well?

 
 
 


David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650 (cell)






From: CnC-List 
 on behalf of Andrew Burton via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 10:41 
AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew 
Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Stripin g... 
 


No, you'll get an uneven finish on the new graphics. You'll also be 
sticking the nice new stuff to lettering stuck on with  old glue. here are 
some tips from one of Sail Magazine's "experts." :)
https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/removing-and-applying-vinyl-lettering
 
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

 
On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 10:33 AM, David via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  
  
  So I am putting on new name graphics and hull striping.   
  Assuming a good clean of the old striping, could I not lay the new over the 
  old and eliminate the seemingly arduous (it being in a recess) step of 
  removing it all?
   
  Thanks in advance

   
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  bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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  contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All 
  contributions are greatly appreciated!




-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, 
RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  
+401 965 5260


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appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Bad engine?

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Thanks. We may call. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 10/14/17  05:09  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David <davidrisc...@msn.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Bad engine? 


I just rebuilt my Yanmars top end.   He may call me for specifics.







David F. Risch


(401) 419-4650 (cell)










From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of svpegasus38 via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Sent: Friday, October 13, 2017 7:27 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: svpegasus38

Subject: Stus-List Bad engine?
 


A friend has a Catalina 36 with the Universal 25 engine that overheated, and 
now won't start. 
1. Excessive blowby 
2. Smoke in coolant tank
3. Oil level is 2 inches above full mark.
     Oil just changed just after overheated. 
4. New heat exchanger just replaced. After overheating, coolant was full, now 
empty. 
5. When it did start lots of white smoke from exhaust. 
6. Was in process of changing fuel filters when I noticed the empty coolant 
tank, smoke in coolant tank, and over full oil.



Thinking he needs a new engine, or maybe rebuild this one. 
Any advice from the awesome minds on the list is welcome.



Already offered him Pegasus. Lol.







Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy 
POYC 
Pegasus (for sale) 
Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 




___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Bad engine?

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

A friend has a Catalina 36 with the Universal 25 engine that overheated, and 
now won't start. 1. Excessive blowby 2. Smoke in coolant tank3. Oil level is 2 
inches above full mark.     Oil just changed just after overheated. 4. New heat 
exchanger just replaced. After overheating, coolant was full, now empty. 5. 
When it did start lots of white smoke from exhaust. 6. Was in process of 
changing fuel filters when I noticed the empty coolant tank, smoke in coolant 
tank, and over full oil.
Thinking he needs a new engine, or maybe rebuild this one. Any advice from the 
awesome minds on the list is welcome.
Already offered him Pegasus. Lol.

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 ___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Glad you came out unscathed.  Here in the PNW  all we worry about is everything 
turning green in the winter. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Bob Caughran via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/8/17  15:38  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bob Caughran  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes 
Beemer survived the hurricane. With no damage other than covered with pine 
needles. Five boat were not removed from the marina. Three sailboats and two 
sport fishers. Two sailboat broke away from their slips. One ended up sunk 
against the sea wall, mast sticking straight up and headsail flailing in the 
wind. The other a 43' ketch also broke away from her slip and ended 3/4 miles 
away laying on her side on the beach.. A 10' gash at the waterline. The 
remaining boat appear unaffected. All will receive immediate eviction notices. 
The marina is closed. A meeting will be held by the city tomorrow morning to 
assess damage and determine when the marina will reopen officially. The 
commercial fishing boats were returning this afternoon to the commercial 
harbor. And I was told I could return to the marina tomorrow knowing there's no 
power and scattered debris everywhere. 
It helps when you know people. 
Bob CaughranBeemer 29mkllBiloxi

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 8, 2017, at 08:33, Bob Caughran via CnC-List  
wrote:

Golden Nugget in Biloxi had four feet of water in lower level garage which mean 
marina docks were 6' minimum under water. Curfew till 9AM. Still waiting to 
hear how Beemer did. 

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 8, 2017, at 08:09, Edward Levert via CnC-List  
wrote:

I just checked the wind histories from New Orleans Lakefront airport, Gulfport 
Airport, Keesler AFB, Pascagoula airport, Mobile and Pensacola airports. The 
highest gust reading I saw overnight was 58 at Mobile. Currently a 3.3 
elevation in Lake Pontchartrain over normal tide. Only a very brief rain shower 
yesterday afternoon in New Orleans. I am sure our mayor has stopped sweating 
over failed drainage pumps.
Ed C 34 Briarpatch New Orleans LA
On Sat, Oct 7, 2017 at 10:51 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List  
wrote:
Good luck, you guys. You have had repeated beatings this year. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 7 October 2017 at 19:56, Bob Caughran via CnC-List  
wrote:
Thanks Dennis. Just got word that there's 76 boats in the cove now including 
the biloxi schooners so I suspect we picked the right spot. Touché going to get 
rocked from the way it looks too. Fingers crossed for all boats. Should have 
word early tomorrow on Beemers fate. 
Bob CaughranBeemer, 29mkll

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 7, 2017, at 21:28, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Bob, was wondering about Beemer.  Beemer is probably the most exposed boat on 
the list.  Hope it weathers the storm OK.  Let us know.
As I was driving to Pensacola I saw a couple of shrimpers up the Biloxi 
backwaters by one of the I-10 bridges.

Many marinas on the coast boot out their tenants.  As I was doing storm prep on 
Touche' Friday, a Catalina came into the slip next to me.  The regular tenant 
was hauled out.  The Catalina had just gotten booted from Palafox Pier, the 
most expensive, by far, marina in the Pensacola area.  Palafox Pier has 
floating piers but is directly on Pensacola Bay. The Catalina owner was not 
happy.
This is what happened to Palafox Pier after Hurricane Ivan in 2004.
http://www.pnj.com/story/weather/hurricanes/2015/09/15/hurricane-ivan-anniversary/72347546/

Palafox Pier has a LOT of big boats in it.  Where does one take a 60+ foot 
motoryacht when it's in the only marina with large slips within 20 miles?  Some 
boatyards offer pre-paid storm haul outs.  Or I guess one heads to The Wharf in 
Orange Beach.  That's a 25 mile run.
Fairly quiet here in Baton Rouge tonight.  Nate has made landfall on the Delta 
and will shortly make a second landfall on the Mississippi Coast.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Sat, Oct 7, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Bob Caughran via CnC-List 
 wrote:
So here's how my last 3 days have gone. On Thursday a fellow sailor from my 
marina in Biloxi called to let me know they were considering closing the marina 
for Nate. I packed up my car and headed down to Biloxi yesterday morning. 
Sunshine, 82 degrees and 12-15 knots from the east. I arrive to find three 
sailing buddies prepping their boats and waiting for me to lead them to the 
hurricane hole none of us have been to before.

I add five gallons of fuel to Beemer, C, the harbor master helps us get 
off the docks and off we go at 1:30PM. It's a six to seven mile trek into 
biloxi bay and up the biloxi river.

Two miles into the excursion going under the I110 bridge, I hear a different 
sound 

Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

No they are not, at least the ones I got. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 10/8/17  10:38  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jim Reinardy <firewa...@reinardy.us> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements 
Doug, Are those dimmable?  It does not say in the write online at least. 
Thanks, Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of svpegasus38 via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 11:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasus38 <svpegasu...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements I replaced a 
couple of fluorescent tubes with the Marine beam led tubes. Had to eliminate 
the ballast from the system. There is instructions either online or included 
with the led tubes (can't remember).Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug 
Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39   Original 
message From: kelly petew via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 
10/8/17 08:35 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: kelly petew 
<kellype...@msn.com> Subject: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements  
Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original fluorescents 
with LEDs?  Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into 
the existing fixture?? Thanks!! Pete W. Siren Song'91 C 30-2Deltaville, Va.___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I replaced a couple of fluorescent tubes with the Marine beam led tubes. Had to 
eliminate the ballast from the system. There is instructions either online or 
included with the led tubes (can't remember). 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: kelly petew via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/8/17  08:35  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: kelly petew  Subject: Stus-List 
LED Interior Flourescent replacements 


Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original fluorescents 
with LEDs? 

Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the existing 
fixture??



Thanks!!



Pete W.



Siren Song
'91 C 30-2
Deltaville, Va.



___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Painting the headliner

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

When I did the headliner on my LF38. I replaced the coated plywood with 
garnished African mahogany. And painted the rest with hatteras white brightside 
by interlux. Came out looking great. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/2/17  17:11  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Adam Hayden  Subject: 
Stus-List Painting the headliner 


Hello fellow listers





I am considering painting the headliner of our C 36 as it is looming a little 
shabby.   I would rather paint it as opposed to replacing it.





The headliner is probably the original so it would be the wooden panels with 
the fabric leatherette look. 






Any suggestions would be appreciated





Adam Hayden



State of Bliss



Pictou NS






Get Outlook for Android



___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I replaced my hatch on Pegasus with the lewmar ocean hatch. None of the holes 
matched. I plugged and refilled new holes. Used #12 or 14 (can't remember)  
sheet metal screws and butyl tape. Like you I did not nuts hanging down to 
crack my head on. That's the way the original was installed, and it held for 
30+ years. Must be ok. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 9/26/17  14:49  (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist 
 Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. 
Dave,
I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work.  If it was 
me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners.
You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A 
hatch.  If it matches, overbore and fill.
In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a 
strong bond.  My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so.  So the 
fastener is only grabbing that much.  If you overbore carefully down to the top 
of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is 
thicker than the original deck.  More material for the fastener to grab.  
Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of 
what length fastener to use.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am 
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch 
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch 
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. 
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit



___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List How long do zinc last

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I hauled my new-to-me boat not long ago. Only to find the new zinc I had my 
diver put on 2 weeks prior were over 25% gone. Something deffintly amiss here. 
I checked for stray voltage between the neutral on the shore power cord and the 
water I had 0.65 volts. Is this high or about normal?
 To my knowledge I don't have a galvanic isolator. It is on the ever expanding 
list. I know that I have some wiring issues on the DC side. Mostly poor wiring 
techniques. I also have what appears to be some sort of coil/transformer in 
line on the output cable from the alternator.  Just the alternator cables and a 
ground (black) wire. Anybody familiar with this?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Glad it was a simple did. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus  (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/22/17  16:43  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randy Stafford  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out 
Score another point for Occam’s Razor.  With the new fuel petcock she purred 
like a kitten again today, for an hour with no shutdown or issue.  And now she 
has 50 psi fresh oil at idle.  Cleaned her up and got her all ready for CSYC’s 
Autumn Winds Regatta tomorrow Michael.
Thanks all for the input.  Turned out to be a fuel supply issue, and a lucky / 
educated guess as to what was wrong.
Cheers,Randy
On Sep 21, 2017, at 8:09 PM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Went through Moyers years ago. Absolutely great stuff. A short cut 
for ignition problems is an induction timing light. You have spark or you 
don't. Can't wait to find out what is wrong.Michael






On Thursday, September 21, 2017, 7:30:46 PM MDT, Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List  wrote:





If the fuel hose is original replace it to - the inner wall 
can collapse and starve the engine ... 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2017 6:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List boat insurance for Liveaboards

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I live aboard in the Seattle area. I use Red Shield for insurance, it costs me 
about $800us a year. My agent is Annette at Taylor Thomason insurance in 
Seattle. Give her a call at 253-284-7900. Sorry I don't have a toll free 
number. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Dan via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/22/17  11:55  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dan  Subject: Stus-List boat 
insurance for Liveaboards 
So as some of you may know I live aboard Breakaweigh full time here in Canada. 
It's still new to me and I've been working out boat insurance and weighing 
options. My current insurance is with Intact insurance and is roughly $600 
canadian dollars a year however when the topic of winter liveaboard came up 
they decided to not cover me whatsoever and I've had to look elsewhere. My 
local broker found me some insurance through "Yachtline Insurance" in the UK 
which has amazing coverage for all seasons including named storms, however it 
is very pricey at $2200 canadian per year. Does this sound reasonable or should 
I be looking elsewhere?
Thanks guys,
DanBreakaweighC 44, 1986Halifax, NS
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Glad you found the problem.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/21/17  15:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randy Stafford  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out 
Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heaters

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I think you will be happy with the Isotherm. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: William Hall via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/19/17  12:37  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: William Hall  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Water heaters 
Hey, those look pretty good.Good timing - I had just ordered a replacement 
raritan heater - the original seems to have rusted out - but looks like the 
order didn't go through. I think I'll get one of these instead. Thanks!Bill 
HallStarfire, 1985 C 37
On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 3:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
If I ever install a water heater on Touche', it will be an Isotemp SPA model.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Sep 18, 2017 11:28 AM, "Glenn Gambel via CnC-List"  
wrote:




I am contemplating replacing my 6 gallon Raritan hot water heater with heat 
exchanger with an Atwood/Whale 6 gallon hot water heater with heat exchanger.  
I could get a new Raritan for in the neighborhood of 800 dollars or a new 
Atwood for around 300 dollars.  Wonder what other's experience in this area may 
be???  Would appreciate any feedback.  
Glenn GambelWind N Spirits, 1981 C 36
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I have radar and AIS receiver on Pegasus, radar and installing AIS transponder  
on Rebecca Leah. I was cruising near Port Townsend in the fog when the screen 
of my radar went blank. Had the AIS receiver so was able to see the ferry that 
was too close for comfort. Called him on the radio. Was able to avoid a bad 
situation.  If interested in AIS talk to Doug Miller at MilltechMarine.com He 
is who I bought my LF39 from and he hooked me up with the AIS transponder.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: David Castor via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/18/17  13:24  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Castor  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none 
I'd put higher priority on radar. Not all vessels have AIS. Or have it on.   
Just my $0.02. 
On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 12:11 PM Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I have general charts aboard and tools to dead reckon with! I can see no reason 
to not have at least a handheld GPS aboard with batteries. If you can swing it 
though you should have a plotter!  Great peace of mind!I think I would prefer 
having AIS to radar. I have the radar but no AIS currently!A good friend said 
the added benefit of AIS is knowing how many folks (roughly) are in the 
anchorage before you pull in! I have read some very negative feedback on real 
time tests on radar reflectors?

Rick Rohwer Paikea 37+Tacoma, WA



On Sep 18, 2017, at 12:55, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I agree with Jack, as well; but the original post was sent by a person who 
sails in the Vancouver Island area, which has far less shifting sand and far 
more immovable rock…   :^)
Any electronic device is not a replacement for good seamanship and piloting — 
but it can definitely be of great help when the wether goes bad or it’s dark 
out.  You still have a responsibility for keeping proper lookout, and for 
double-checking your position.
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Sep 18, 2017, at 11:22 AM, David Kaseler via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Jack I agree with all you say.Dave.1975 C 33SLY

Sent from my iPad
On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:33 AM, jackbrennan via CnC-List  
wrote:

Of course, the caveat to all of this is that,  depending on where you sail, 
even up-to-date charts can be anywhere from mildly off to wildly and 
dangerously inaccurate.
In the Keys and South and West Florida, where sand shifts all of the time, 
TowboatUS and Seatow do a fine business from boaters blindly following their 
chartplotters. Many inlets and channels in West Florida have nasty, uncharted 
sandbars.
After Irma, forget about it. Who knows what's where? You could go aground on a 
sunken boat.
Depth sounders and the ability to read water are more valuable navigation tools 
in places like this. I like paper charts because you get a bigger view. A GPS 
is wonderful for confirming that you are where you think you are. 
Still, I get the allure of all that gear. I crewed on a friend's catamaran to 
Fantasy Fest in Key West last fall. His electronics were several times more 
valuable than many of our boats.
I felt like I was on the con of the Starship Enterprise. Especially when we hit 
warp speed (10+ knots). The only thing the electronics couldn't do was spot 
crab pots at night. :)
Jack BrennanFormer C 25Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30Tierra Verde, Fl.
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-- 
Excuse the brevity. Sent from my phone. 
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Re: Stus-List Water heaters

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

When I first bought Pegasus I installed a 6 gallon Isotherm. Would keep water 
hot several hours, and warm for 24+ hours. All stainless steel construction.  
Wish I had one on Rebecca Leah.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/18/17  11:34  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Ken Heaton  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Water heaters 
We have one of these.  It seems fine.  Ours may be a 20 gallon, I'm not sure.  
Stainless Steel casing, Aluminium Tank.  Made in the USA apparently, North 
Carolina?
http://us.binnacle.com/m101/Kuuma-Grills-&-Water-Heaters/p3467/Kuuma-11-Gallon-Hot-Water-Heater-Front-Heat-Exchange/product_info.html

Ken H.

On 18 September 2017 at 15:08, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Shit... Thanks Edd.  It wad just a test to see who would follow my link!  Haha
Try these.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms

Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Sep 18, 2017 1:51 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Josh,
Your rebuild photos look a lot like a limited release of liability document for 
your charter company. 
Do you make your passengers sign your hot water tank? :-) 


All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log






On Sep 18, 2017, at 1:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:
I rebuilt my Raritan.  I don't completely understand why the price is so high 
but the company is quite proud of their product being "glass lined"?
Here are rebuild 
pics:https://docs.google.com/document/d/18AwfYQFWmm_r8VMKbZRgmPyw5YklmfCltHQ_c7MdcjQ/edit?usp=drivesdk
I replaced all the insulation AND included a flush manifold and themal mixing 
valve.

Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD 

On Sep 18, 2017 11:28 AM, "Glenn Gambel via CnC-List"  
wrote:




I am contemplating replacing my 6 gallon Raritan hot water heater with heat 
exchanger with an Atwood/Whale 6 gallon hot water heater with heat exchanger.  
I could get a new Raritan for in the neighborhood of 800 dollars or a new 
Atwood for around 300 dollars.  Wonder what other's experience in this area may 
be???  Would appreciate any feedback.  
Glenn GambelWind N Spirits, 1981 C 36
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Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Randy,Are you getting any noise out of starter (click) when trying to start? 
Even if you are hydro locked you should hear a click at the starter solenoid if 
electrics are good. Check the coil for cracks, check points and condenser, or 
electronic pick-up, ignition switch for loose/bad connections.  Good luck. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/18/17  07:29  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randal Stafford  Subject: 
Stus-List A4 Cutting Out 
Listers-

I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
to share.

When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t have 
enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though my 
other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled the 
batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 volts and 
83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% and 12.9 
volts.

So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
hypotheses.

Thanks in Advance,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 301- #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Stus-List Balmar alternator

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Anyone have experience with setting up a Balmar regulator? I have 600 amphour 
capacity in 6 agm batteries. I have figured out most of the settings, but am 
questioning how long to set both bulk, and float charge times. Currently bulk 
is set around 20 minutes and float is about an hour. Never fully charged the 
batteries. I haven't been able to find any information on this. I do have the 
Balmar manual. Is it guess work? If set to long will it destroy the batteries, 
I am getting ready to replace them and don't want to hurt the new ones.  Thanks

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 ___

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Re: Stus-List 2018 C Northeast Rendezvous -- A "Movie Teaser"

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Nice video. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/15/17  12:10  (GMT-08:00) To: Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List  Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: 
Stus-List 2018 C Northeast Rendezvous -- A "Movie Teaser" 
Listers,
Not to steal too much thunder from Josh Muckley’s planning of the 2018 
Mid-Atlantic Rendezvous, you may want to watch this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxOu2Ciucy0
Yeah — Turn that sound up! And enjoy! 
Details coming soon! 


All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log










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Re: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I had a perko unit on Pegasus, swapped it out several years ago when I was 
cleaning it and it fell apart in my hands. Replaced it with the Grocco unit. 
Rebecca Leah has a Grocco installed above the water line. Thinking of adding a 
fitting to the intake hose, to allow using an air pump to blow out the thru 
hull. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/11/17  07:24  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson  Subject: 
Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat! 
Yesterday as we were sailing back to the dock one of my crew yelled 'there's a 
lot of water down here'.  I opened the companionway steps and saw water coming 
out of the top of the sea strainer as the water was reaching the top of it.
I closed the seacock and we manned the manual pump.  Once the water was below 
the floorboards we let the electric do its job.
One of the arms that held the lid in place broke at the lower end.  Luckily we 
were aboard and found the leak.  There was not excessive corrosion on the 
strainer, so I don't think the weakness could have been detected.  Time to 
re-think leaving seacocks open when I'm off the boat!

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

From what I can see in the pictire, it's mostly cats and power boats...


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: robert via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/8/17  07:09  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola 

I have the before picture (too big for the C site) which shows
all these charter boats lined up in a safe harbor to be protected
from the hurricane..well that was the plan, sadly!



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-07 11:51 AM, Randal Stafford
  via CnC-List wrote:



  
  This is a sad picture: 
http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2017/09/07/11/43FCB37F0578-4861184-Boats_piled_up_as_the_eye_of_Hurricane_Irma_passed_over_Tortola_-a-4_1504778890915.jpg



Sadly,
Randy
  
  

  
  

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Stus-List Used sail cover

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I have the old sail cover off of my LF38. It will fit a 12ft boom, and is in 
good shape. It is navy blue, with a small (1/4 inch) hole on top. Selling for a 
donation to Stu and shipping from Seattle. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus  (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 ___

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Re: Stus-List Starting a complete refit on C Landfall 38 , first of many questions.

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

John, I forgot to mention that the davits are on my LF39 not the lf38.  Major 
difference in boat design. On Pegasus the Lf38 I carried the dinghy on the bow 
during long crossings. I did have a Garhauer motor crane for the out board. 
Plus I had the bimini built so I could put solar panels above it. Didn't need 
the generator after the solar. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: john wright via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 9/3/17  20:29  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: john wright <johnrogerswri...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Starting a complete refit on C Landfall 38 , first of many 
questions. 
Thanks Doug
On Sep 3, 2017, at 11:26 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
I have Davis that came with the boat. They are free standing (not connected to 
stern pulpit). Not thrilled with the design.
 For a generator I use a Honda 2000 companion. It has a 30 amp plug.
 Getting ready to get quotes on a full enclosure for the cockpit. I know 
several cruisers in the Pacific northwest that have a full enclosure and they 
are great. Pegasus has a dodger and bimini which is the next best thing. Get 
one that you can remove panels for the different seasons  and needs of the boat 
and crew. I think that darker colors make the cockpit warmer. Could be a 
detriment on a hot day. 
As for a watermaker. A friend has one on his 52 Irwin keeps it pickled most of 
the time. He installed it before their cruise to Mexico and back to Seattle.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: john wright via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 9/3/17  19:27  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: john wright <johnrogerswri...@gmail.com> Subject: 
Stus-List Starting a complete refit on C Landfall 38 ,
  first of many questions. 
Does anyone have a water maker on their boat?

How about a Gen Set? 

Full enclosure for the cockpit?

Davits?



If you do have any of the above or have thoughts on them, can you please share. 
Also include brand , (AC or DC for water maker). Can you also share pictures of 
where on boat its located.

Thanks in advance


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Re: Stus-List Starting a complete refit on C Landfall 38 , first of many questions.

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I have Davis that came with the boat. They are free standing (not connected to 
stern pulpit). Not thrilled with the design.
 For a generator I use a Honda 2000 companion. It has a 30 amp plug.
 Getting ready to get quotes on a full enclosure for the cockpit. I know 
several cruisers in the Pacific northwest that have a full enclosure and they 
are great. Pegasus has a dodger and bimini which is the next best thing. Get 
one that you can remove panels for the different seasons  and needs of the boat 
and crew. I think that darker colors make the cockpit warmer. Could be a 
detriment on a hot day. 
As for a watermaker. A friend has one on his 52 Irwin keeps it pickled most of 
the time. He installed it before their cruise to Mexico and back to Seattle.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: john wright via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/3/17  19:27  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: john wright  Subject: 
Stus-List Starting a complete refit on C Landfall 38 ,
  first of many questions. 
Does anyone have a water maker on their boat?

How about a Gen Set? 

Full enclosure for the cockpit?

Davits?



If you do have any of the above or have thoughts on them, can you please share. 
Also include brand , (AC or DC for water maker). Can you also share pictures of 
where on boat its located.

Thanks in advance


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Sherwood pump oil seal

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

The outer diameter is a press fit into the deal bore. The green coating on the 
deal is a dealer of sorts. Take a socket kusing the closed end]or a seal 
installer tool and drive the deal into the clean bore. Make sure it is oriented 
in the proper direction.  The seal lip should be facing the fluid you want to 
stop. Usually there are 2 seals facing opposite directions. The first seal will 
have the lip facing the impeller and be bottomed in the bore. The second deal 
will have the lip facing the engine and be flush with the bore end. This is 
true of the pump is engine driven and not belt driven. Hope this helps


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/3/17  09:17  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Daryl McKelvie  Subject: 
Stus-List Sherwood pump oil seal 
Has anyone any experience replacing the oil seal at the back of the Sherwood 
raw water pump? I have the replacement oil seal part number 18806, cost 20.82, 
it has a green outer casing and looks like it should slide right into the end 
of the pump body that faces the engine, however that bore seems to be just 
slightly smaller, is there maybe a trick to this?This is the universal M35, I 
realize lots have switched to the oberdorfer and I might eventually but just 
want to get this one back together for now, maybe get 1 or 2 more sails out of 
this year then call it a year. There wasn't much left of the old one that came 
out so can't even say what it even looked like, will be stripping the rest of 
the pump right down to clean out the remnants of the old one.Thanx very much.
Daryl McKelvieS/V SkellySarnia Ontario
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Re: Stus-List Closed the deal

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Congratulations. I just wish I could sell my 38.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: schiller via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/1/17  18:21  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller  Subject: 
Stus-List Closed the deal 

We are the proud new owners of a 1983 C 35,
  Mark III (ZCC35028M83H).  Closed the deal on it and took position
  this afternoon.  We will move it up from Muskegon to White Lake
  tomorrow, back home to Crosswinds Marina in Whitehall.

  

  We'll have about 4 weeks to familiarize ourselves with her before
  time to haul and store for the winter.  I still need to pick up
  the cradle and winter cover before the end of the month.

  

  If any of the C 35, Mark I owners are interested in a winter cover, 
please let
  me know.  I had Whitelake Canvas make me a cover last year and now
  I have no Mark I to cover.  This cover goes to the toe rail and is
  fitted to go around the stanchions and shrouds.  I have a picture
  or two of it if interested.  Make me an offer.

  

  Neil Schiller

  1983 C 35, Mark III, Hull #28

  "Grace"


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Re: Stus-List Garhauer Genoa Cars

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Add another satisfied Customer of Garhauer. Put one of their travelers on 
Pegasus and loved it. Plus it looked great. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/30/17  07:09  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Gary Russell  Subject: 
Stus-List Garhauer Genoa Cars 
It was posted a while ago, that Garhauer Marine no longer sells ball bearing 
jib cars but only sold cars with plastic (Delrin) bearings.  I've found this 
not to be completely correct.  If you really want ball bearings, you can talk 
to Guido and he will make them for you (same price).  They prefer to sell the 
plastic ones because many customers have had trouble installing or removing the 
cars and losing bearings (they don't float).  He said there's not a significant 
performance difference between ball bearing and plastic, but conceded that the 
ball bearings were slightly better.  I ordered the ball bearing version and am 
very happy with them.  If your are careful installing them, they are easy to 
install and work very well.  Garhauer makes bullet proof stuff at a very 
reasonable price.  I have no affiliation with Garhauer Marine or any of their 
employees.  I'm just a happy customer that has purchased many products from 
them.
GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA~~~_/)~~



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Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I liked the Wallas furnace I had on Pegasus. Constant even heat. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/28/17  19:04  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Len Mitchell  Subject: 
Stus-List 37+ heat 
I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace or a 
diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the best fit for 
our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have advantages. What do 
you guys think? 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+


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Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973 Ericson 
35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the emergency 
tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured out it was 
almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the compass, chart 
plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the cable and sailed off 
into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to the sun set. Next morning 
at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt was at the helm and the seas 
were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4 like the day before. Hove to 
again changed the second cable. The owner had changed out the cable 3 years 
before using hardware store wire rope. I heard from a friend, who sailed back 
to Victoria, that the cables broke again. My thought was that he had too stuff 
of cable for the sheave  diameter. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: ahycrace via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/25/17  20:08  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ahycrace  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
wheel squeak 
Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a loud 
BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the cockpit 
and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys has pulled 
right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor homea very bad 
day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys. Edson has all the 
replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate before i took it off. I 
can post them when we get home we are in Newport watching the J class boats 
race.  
Gary. "Liberty"  38' Mk ll


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/24/17  10:08 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List wheel squeak 
Richard,Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that 
support the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease).  
Don’t squirt WD-40 or any light weight spray  lubricant into the grease holes 
as it will tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings.  You can 
also check to see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up 
and down, or side to side.  There should be no play in the shaft at all.. Edson 
does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips and all the 
other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel shaft.  If you go 
down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the brake shoes if everything 
else is apart. The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the sheave pins 
(axles) for the bronze idler wheels.  They ride on plain bushings and in the 
“old days” the axles were also bronze, which will wear out eventually and allow 
the sheaves to go flying into the bilge under tension at the worst possible 
time.  If those have never been checked, replaced with stainless pins, or 
lubricated as described in Edson’s steering maintenance instructions, I would 
certainly do so.  Once the sheave pins wear, the sheaves go out of alignment 
and the squeaking you hear may be the axles getting ready to let go.   Finally, 
the Edson Idler plate at the base of the pedestal is generally made of mild 
steel below the deck.  Not terribly subjected to the elements, but they can and 
will eventually start to rust.  Once that happens, sheaves, cable alignments 
and other critical steering components can be affected, so check for a rusty 
idler plate as well as wobbly sheave uprights. Whatever you do, don’t wait for 
it to fail to fix it..  Boats without steering are not safe by any stretch of 
the imagination.  The folks at Edson are very good at walking you through what 
you need and they have data sheets on most every C Steering system they sold 
for our boats.Cheers,Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 35 LandfallPadanaram, MA 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak Is it an Edson pedestal?  If so, there are 
two places to squeeze in grease under the compass.  If you look on YouTube 
there are Edson videos on replacing the bearings and they show the grease 
points.   I just did the bearing replacement on my current boat. Joel On Thu, 
Aug 24, 2017 at 9:34 AM, Richard Walter via CnC-List  
wrote:Greetings,  The wheel on our 1978 36-footer has always squeaked to 
varying degrees. Anyone found a solution to squeaky wheels? When it comes to 
getting grease, I cannot locate a grease fitting (Zerc). Anyone added one?  
Thank you,Richard s/v INDIGO 

Re: Stus-List Force 10 Ignition Module

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Try sure marinewww.suremarineservice.com


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/19/17  09:14  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Gary Russell  Subject: 
Stus-List Force 10 Ignition Module 
Anyone know where to find an ignition module for a Force 10 stove?GaryS/V 
Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



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Re: Stus-List Frozen turn buckles

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Try Kroil comes in Orange can. We use it in frozen bolts on turbine engines. I 
had some frozen turn buckles on Rebecca Leah, sprayed and let soak for 3 days 
and was able to free them up. I won't use any other penetrant. Also you may 
want to use a good anti seize for reassembly.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/19/17  04:42  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: PETER OCAMPO  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Frozen turn buckles 
Thanks for the info  will try liquid wrench first  have about 6 weeks to try 
that  

Hope it's not a full cold weld that does not sound exciting

Peter


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 18, 2017, at 9:22 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I hate to say this, but is it possible that you have a case of a cold weld 
> between the turnbuckle and the bolt?
> 
> Also look at the below. You may want to be careful with acetone on the deck.
> 
> Marek
> 
> 
> Penetrating Oils 
> 
> Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on various 
> penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might
> appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out 
> torque on rusted nuts. 
> 
> They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. 
> They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the
> control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically 
> rusted" environment. 
> 
> *Penetrating oils ... Average torque load to loosen* 
> 
> No Oil used ...516 pounds 
> 
> WD-40 . ... 238 pounds 
> 
> PB Blaster  214 pounds 
> 
> Liquid Wrench ...127 pounds 
> 
> Kano Kroil  106 pounds 
> 
> ATF-Acetone mix.53 pounds 
> 
> The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission 
> fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any
> commercial product in this one particular test. 
> 
> Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally 
> good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as
> "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. 
> 
> Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also 
> use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. 
> 
> *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PETER 
> OCAMPO via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 20:11
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: PETER OCAMPO 
> Subject: Stus-List Frozen turn buckles
> 
> had my rig checked and rigger found turn buckles  frozen   He could tune 
> short stays but long stays no movement   He advised should be good for 20-25 
> knots but don't push it 
> 
> Is it okay to use pb blaster on turnbuckles  or is there a recommendation for 
> something else  
> 
> hate to say it winter storage  coming sooner then I want 
> 
> History of boat not known if stick has been down in 20+years Last ten 
> guess is very light sailing  last 3 on the hard   Does not appear to ever 
> been raced 
> 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> Peter
> C 40 1983
> Goonie island 
> Portland Maine 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List C NW Rendezvous. Telegraph Harbor, BC

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Very nice video. Wish I could have been there. Maybe next year. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/17/17  18:41  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com, C Rdv  Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
 Subject: Stus-List C NW Rendezvous.  Telegraph Harbor, BC 
http://youtu.be/hTBU6_HwvFA

Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660
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Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I have stowed my inflatable on the fordeck of my LF38 during the winter also. 
It is an Achilles 280 RIB. I have sailed with it there, but the hub sheets can 
get tangled and it is a royal PITA to go forward. I sailed to Hawaii with a 
hard she'll dinghy lashed to the fore deck of a 35 Ericson. Once again ROYAL 
PITA. No other choice there. FWIW
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/15/17  11:15  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck 
John — over the last winter I purchased new Mercury 280 Hypalon RIB for my boat 
(to replace the 20-year-old Seaworthy 9.2 wooden-floor dinghy, which was 
starting to slow-leak…), and I put it up on the foredeck to store out of the 
water between sailing weekends.  There’s no way I could sail with it up there; 
it would foul both the genny and the sheets.  I could always deflate it, but 
that would just add time when we got out into the islands.  So we tow it behind 
when leaving the marina, and hoist it back on deck when we’re ready to leave 
the boat after a trip out.
Given the shape of the foredeck (narrow and pointy), the cabin top and the 
length of your rowing dinghy, I’m not sure I can imagine how you’d make it work.
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Aug 15, 2017, at 12:49 PM, john wright via CnC-List  
wrote:
Any owners of 38 Landfall or any other C, keep/store their tender on the 
foredeck. I am thinking of having Chocks made that at minimum, I can keep a 
rowing wood tender thats 10 ft long on the foredeck. Not sure about while under 
sail. Thoughts?

Thanks___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I have picked up vegatvegetation and other  stuff that plugged the raw water 
intake. Only to fall away after engine is shut down. When this happens I pull 
the raw water hose at the thru hull, and check for water flow. Dinghy pump 
works great to back flush thru hull. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/15/17  09:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Buscaglia  Subject: Stus-List 
Overheating mystery 
Yesterday as we were pulling out of an overnight at Otter Bay and had an 
overheating issue.  Steam out the exhaust and that alarm thing. We drifted 
around with Lynn on watch while I checked the impeller, intake and belts.  But 
no luck.  So, we called vessel assist ( if you cruise and do not have Boat US 
tow insurance you should).
We hauled up the sails and headed for Van Isle and the tow boat found us just 
as the wind died.
I call ahead to Stew at U.K. and he recommended a Yanmar mechanic, Ben, who was 
able to get down and check thing out once we landed.  Absolutely nothing wrong 
with the cooling system.  It was all just fine.  He did find a few items that 
I'll need to address, like a seized loose mount, but the raw water system was 
clear and flushing great.
This is the second time I have had an overheating issue that is appeared 
without explanation.  Anyone else have this sort of thing happen?
Maybe Alera just wanted to sail and was letting us know that she would not 
motor until we did...oh well, on to Victoria.
Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera1990 C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660

On Aug 15, 2017, at 6:38 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
  (Matthew L. Wolford)
   2. Re:  GENCO canvas near Toronto (Tim Sippel)
   3. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
  (Frederick G Street)
   4. Re:  Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall (Paul Fountain)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 08:21:28 -0400
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Question for Hank:

    Where was the ?custom shop??  I have a ?42 Custom,? which is more or less a 
sistership of the first Baltic 42, and I was told that only six were built in 
the ?custom shop.?

From: henry evans via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:51 PM
To: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
Cc: henry evans 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

Obviously, the stern of the LF-38 is different as is the rig and keel.  The 
basic hull shape is the same as the 38-2.

If memory serves, all the 38's were built at NOTL and all the Landfalls at RI.

Hank Evans


On Monday, August 14, 2017, 6:56:44 PM CDT, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 wrote:


According to sailboat data online "
The LANDFALL 38 shares the same hull design as the C 38-2 but with a 
shallower keel, shorter rig and entirely different interior. Built at C's 
Rhode Island (USA) plant."   Jerry




-Original Message-
From: john wright via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: john wright 
Sent: Mon, Aug 14, 2017 7:52 pm
Subject: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

Trying to resolve a friendly dispute. Are the 38 and the Landfall 38 from the 
same mold?

Thanks
___

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, 

Re: Stus-List Oven thermostat

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Try sure marine they handle all things for cooking and hearing. 
www.suremarineservice.com

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/15/17  07:05  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Gary Russell  Subject: 
Stus-List Oven thermostat 
I have a Force 10 stove on Kaylarah and it annoys me that the oven doesn't have 
a thermostat (just a simple valve like the top burners).  Has anyone ever tried 
to put a thermostat in the oven of a Force 10 stove?
GaryS/V Kaylarah '90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA-- 
~~~_/)~~


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Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

The transom on the LF is also more of a wine glass shape. This eliminated the 
storage for Propane. In the LF is a Propane locker under the helm seat. Another 
difference is a  teak toe rail on the LF 38. Now the Landfall 39 is totally 
different from the Landfall 38. Almost doesn't look like a C 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/14/17  16:55  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jerome Tauber  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall 
According to sailboat data online "

The LANDFALL 38 shares the same hull 
design as the C 38-2 but with a  shallower keel, shorter rig and 
entirely different interior. Built at C's Rhode Island (USA) 
plant."   Jerry


 



 



 



-Original Message-

From: john wright via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list 

Cc: john wright 

Sent: Mon, Aug 14, 2017 7:52 pm

Subject: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall



Trying to resolve a friendly dispute. Are the 38 and the Landfall 38 from the 
same mold?



Thanks

___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Nice set up. Rebecca Leah' s mascot is Dinghy the cat. Having moved from 
Pegasus. He does regular bilge, locker, and engine room inspections. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/14/17  08:39  (GMT-08:00) To: Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Edd Schillay <e...@schillay.com> Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 
I’m using the original C 37+ DC panel (with breakers behind), but I moved my 
AC wiring up to where there was less moisture and relocated my battery switch 
from the floor. Both the AC panel and battery switches are Blue Seas, which I 
can’t recommend enough. 
Here is a photo of the current (no pun intended) setup on my boat: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/Electrics2017.jpg 


All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




On Aug 10, 2017, at 3:51 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
Interesting, Josh as mine (94 37/40+), look nothing like yours.  I'll have to 
talk a photo...


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/10/17  12:31 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: C List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Electrical panel 
"Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we all 
do."  I never gave it much thought but it seems that the folks at C might 
have changed their methodology on the 37+.  I have a wide selection of "coffe 
pot" type switches at the switch panel on the nav station to turn on/off my 
electrical loads.  All the switches are wired to a bank of terminal boards 
which are powered from a series of circuit breakers.  It is rare for any 
circuit breakers to trip and unnecessary to operate them unless they do.  The 
terminal boards and circuit breakers are tucked neatly behind the nav station, 
during normal operation.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD



On Aug 10, 2017 1:06 PM, "svpegasus38 via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
Paul, Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we 
all do. Me included. This being used as a switch will cause them to fail over 
time. I believe you just had bad luck having 2 fail symotainiously. I like 
paneltronics stuff. because I have used it in the past, and they will custom 
build a panel for you. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus  (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Paul via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/10/17  09:54  (GMT-08:00) To: 'Ron Ricci' 
<ron.ri...@1968.usna.com>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 
My 2 problem breakers were from the 12v DC side of the panel.  The AC is the
left side and the DC is the right 2 sides. I have the main shut off switch
for the panel otherwise, there is not backup breaker for the DC.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416.799.5549 c

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci [mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com] 
Sent: August 10, 2017 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Electrical panel

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order anoth

Re: Stus-List Crack at hull support below the chainplate

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

It looks structural to me. Not a hard fix. I would grind out the crack fill 
with thickened epoxy, then tab it to the hull with bi-axial cloth. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/13/17  10:35  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Hobson  Subject: 
Stus-List Crack at hull support below the chainplate 
Discovered a crack on the portside inside the cabin where the chainplate 
attaches to the fibreglass hull/deck support. Not sure if this is structural or 
cosmetic. Had someone jump up and down on the portside deck forward and aft of 
the shrouds to see if there was any movement. Didn’t see any. Have a look at 
the photos:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHeE5nY0VTYlJ3Z0U?usp=sharing
Chris HobsonS/V Going1980 C MKI HIN 615___

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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Adam,The VHB tape is only what holds the port light in place. It is the Dow 
Corning that does the actual sealing. I am experimenting with installing my new 
port lights, on my LF39, only during the cool part of the day and keeping the 
plexiglass out of the Sun as much as possible. On my last boat, LF38, I 
installed them during the hottest part of the day, and after some time I found 
a couple of leaks. These were where I had less than a 1/4 inch gap for sealant. 
My thinking on this is that the plexiglass expands when hot. I figure it is 
better to squeeze the sealant than have the plexiglass pull away when in 
shrinks when cool. I also rough up the edges and anywhere the sealant will be, 
along with minimum 1/4 inch gap. I am replacing both side port lights 6ft long 
by 8 inches tall, and 3 hatch lenses. FWIW. 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah  LF39 
 Original message From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/13/17  05:53  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Adam Hayden  Subject: 
Stus-List Port replacement 


Hey all.  I am finally going to replace the ports in my C 36.  I know this 
has been discussed at length.  Just quickly will the 3M vhb tape work and does 
it seal as well.





Thanks 





Adam Hayden






Get Outlook for Android



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Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Patrick, On Pegasus  Never had an issue with the head door, but aft cabin door 
always would stick in lower corner. I don't remember the v-berth door binding. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/10/17  13:18  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door 
Interesting. I inspected my mast step closely when the mast was out, since I 
know some LF38s have had that issue. Mine looked okay. Dennis when your head 
door was stuck, was it binding at the top and bottom edges of the door?  Given 
your cabin roof was being pushed down I imagine that's what would happen. My 
v-berth door is binding at the sides - the bottom 3 feet - so that makes me 
think it's due to horizontal squeezing of the hull. 
I know some flex / compression is natural from the forces of the rig on all 
sailboats, more so on more flexy boats than on older solid fiberglass boats. 
The LF38 has no deck tie downs at the fwd bulkhead, just the aft bulkhead. So 
I'm wondering whether that lack of deck tie downs allows the hull to flex more 
at that fwd section. 
-Patrick 
-- Forwarded message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 14:08:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door
Years ago, I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster on Touche'.  Hot dog!  
Picked the boat up from the yard and went out on the lake to try it out.  
Cranked it down and, oops, the head door wouldn't open.  Temporary boat rule:  
nobody uses the head going upwind.  Downwind, backstay off, door opened fine.
Didn't take long to discover deteriorated mast step.  Tightened the rig, the 
mast was driven downward into the boat.  The turning blocks on the mast pushed 
the collar down, deformed the cabin roof and bound up the head door.
Rebuilt mast step solved issue.
Your experience may be different.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1:43 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the v-berth 
door on our Landfall 38. 
At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the summer, 
but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple turns (due 
to masthead fall off in higher winds). And this winter when I had the mast out 
for rerig I noticed the v-berth door closed fine. 
Is this just normal flex for C's?  Anyone else had this issue? 
It's binding at the door jamb and the lower right half of the door. I tried to 
check the bulkhead to hull and deck joints, but it's hard to inspect those much 
since they're covered by a permanent liner.
Releasing backstay tension doesn't help. So I suspect it's the fwd lowers or 
main shrouds that flex the hull the tiny amount needed to squeeze the door 
frame. I double checked that the tie rods are adequately tensioned and there's 
no upward inflexion of the deck at the U-bolts. 
The only thing I can think to do would be to sand down the lower half of the 
door edge and revarnish it.
-Patrick1984 C Landfall 38Seattle, WA


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Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Paul, Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we 
all do. Me included. This being used as a switch will cause them to fail over 
time. I believe you just had bad luck having 2 fail symotainiously. I like 
paneltronics stuff. because I have used it in the past, and they will custom 
build a panel for you. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus  (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Paul via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/10/17  09:54  (GMT-08:00) To: 'Ron Ricci' 
, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 
My 2 problem breakers were from the 12v DC side of the panel.  The AC is the
left side and the DC is the right 2 sides. I have the main shut off switch
for the panel otherwise, there is not backup breaker for the DC.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416.799.5549 c

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci [mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com] 
Sent: August 10, 2017 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Electrical panel

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



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Re: Stus-List Update to Dismasted Redwing 35

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I would be interested in the ST60 instruments.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: schiller via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/8/17  14:39  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller  Subject: 
Stus-List Update to Dismasted Redwing 35 

Well, I have heard from the insurance company.  I
  got an estimate for a full repair of the bulkhead and mast collar
  and replacement of the rig that is 1.5 times the agreed to hull
  value is so the insurance company is writing us a check and
  walking away.  They are not totaling the boat and, right now, they
  are expecting us to dispose of the hull.  They are looking at
  salvage values for us.  Torresen Marine has expressed a mild
  interest in the engine (Universal M-25XPB with a whopping 132
  hours).  We will remove the Andersen Self Tailing Winches, the
  Adler Barbour Refrigeration System, the Raymarine ST60
  instruments, the Autopilot and the new Garhauer Mainsheet
  traveler.  There are other smaller items that we will grab
  (cleats, line stoppers) but that is the main list.

  

  We are looking at a 1978 C 38 and a 1981 C  Each
  has it's selling points and each has it's own weaknesses.  Please
  feel free to provide advise on the selections.  Our criteria has
  been:  35±3', fresh water, C, a preference to Lake Michigan
  and within the payout from the insurance company.

  

  We have looked at closely at the 38'.  We will look at the 32' in
  the next couple of weeks.

  

  We must have taken nearly 1/2 ton of ropes and loose gear off
  Corsair already.   I can't believe how much we have acquired in 21
  years. 

  

  Anybody on the list interested in the engine or rest of the boat,
  please let us know.

  

  Neil Schiller

  1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7

  Corsair

  On the hard in Muskegon, Mi


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Re: Stus-List Derelict C 24 MKII

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

My girlfriend bought a 27 ft for $1(that's another story). I think she paid too 
much, soft fore deck, rotted bulkheads, an engine that overheats, but it has 
good sails. I say run fast and far. 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/7/17  15:11  (GMT-08:00) To: Chuck Gilchrest 
via CnC-List  Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Derelict C 24 MKII 




I had a C 24 and it is a great boat. But you can get one for the price of the 
sails and the motor. I am not sure if $2k would buy a good one, but $4k-$5k for 
sure.
 
Yes, run as far as you can
 
Marek
 
Sent from 
Mail for Windows 10
 

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 13:22

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Chuck Gilchrest

Subject: Re: Stus-List Derelict C 24 MKII

 



C 24s in Southern Massachusetts and RI are listing from “free” to $2000.  
There have been several showing up on Craigslist for months.  If you already 
own a 25, you own the better boat..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
(formerly 1975 25 mk1)
Padanaram, MA
 
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Bill Dakin via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 12:51 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Bill Dakin 

Subject: Stus-List Derelict C 24 MKII
 

I have had my eyes on a derelict 24 on our dock for months now.  My inquiries 
led the management to look into the status of the boat and owners, if any.  
Turns out it belongs to the marina and they are willing to take offers on it 
and 'don't
 worry about insulting offers', which I interpret it to mean, we would like it 
to go.  My offer is leaning to pay for the mast step and haul out to my 25 MKII 
trailer where I can transport it for long term renovation.  

 


The staff pumped out 18" of water on the cabin sole to provide some inspection 
opportunity.  The most obvious problem is a drip from the blocks that lead aft 
to the cockpit.  I'm concerned this region contains plywood sandwich 
construction. 
 Even if it is only foam in the construction, and it is saturated, will it be 
possible to dry out without removing the fiberglass/gelcoat cabin top.  Both 
instances are rough with the former being very serious.  


 


She has been in the water for many years, so it occurs to me she will have a 
blistering hull.  I would be in no hurry to get her renovated.  No sails, 
running rigging shot, even water dripping from the chain plates inside the 
cabin.  Gosh,
 I'm about to talk myself out of this!


 


Bill Dakin


C 25 MKII


S/V Tapestry



 





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Re: Stus-List 3gm fuel issues

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Thanks for all advice, bled fuel line at injector pump, then at injectors.  
Started up and is now running. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/6/17  15:35  (GMT-08:00) To: C 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List 3gm fuel issues 
If the fuel doesn't pump as David suggested, you might have to turn the engine 
a little.  Release the compression levers, and turn the engine a little by hand.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk iiio Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Aug 6, 2017 at 2:07 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi doug- It has been a while, but I think I remember that problem.  On my old 
boat’s 3GM the lift pump on the side of the engine was challenging.  There was 
a screw on top to loosen and a small lever oriented vertically that manually 
pumped it.  The hard part was that you had to really pull hard on the lever to 
actually pump fuel and eventually, pumping would get fuel out of the loose 
screw.  The first few times I did it, I moved it up and down and nothing 
happened until I gave it more force on the upswing.  Once you have fuel there, 
you can bleed at the injectors.  That should be as simple as pulling the 
release levers and cranking the engine.  I rarely had to actually loosen the 
injectors themselves.  Dave
On Aug 6, 2017, at 4:01 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
A friend in the club has a LF38 with a 3gm yanmar. Ran it out of fuel, now 
can't get it bled. We have fuel to the last chance fuel filter, but I can't 
find the bleed screw on the injector pump. Have tried to bleed the injector 
lines at the injectors to no avail. Anybody familiar with this we would love to 
hear.Thanks in advance.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Rebecca Leah 
LF39 ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Dr. David KnechtProfessor of Molecular and Cell BiologyUniversity of 
Connecticut91 N. Eagleville Rd.Storrs, CT 06269-3125860-486-2200



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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


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Re: Stus-List 3gm fuel issues

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Thanks Dav, I'll go ask if he has this lever. Is the screw on the injector pump 
under a tall hex head cap? The screw there was loose so he tightened it. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/6/17  14:07  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC discussion 
list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> Subject: 
Re: Stus-List 3gm fuel issues 
Hi doug- It has been a while, but I think I remember that problem.  On my old 
boat’s 3GM the lift pump on the side of the engine was challenging.  There was 
a screw on top to loosen and a small lever oriented vertically that manually 
pumped it.  The hard part was that you had to really pull hard on the lever to 
actually pump fuel and eventually, pumping would get fuel out of the loose 
screw.  The first few times I did it, I moved it up and down and nothing 
happened until I gave it more force on the upswing.  Once you have fuel there, 
you can bleed at the injectors.  That should be as simple as pulling the 
release levers and cranking the engine.  I rarely had to actually loosen the 
injectors themselves.  Dave
On Aug 6, 2017, at 4:01 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
A friend in the club has a LF38 with a 3gm yanmar. Ran it out of fuel, now 
can't get it bled. We have fuel to the last chance fuel filter, but I can't 
find the bleed screw on the injector pump. Have tried to bleed the injector 
lines at the injectors to no avail. Anybody familiar with this we would love to 
hear.Thanks in advance.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Rebecca Leah 
LF39 ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Dr. David KnechtProfessor of Molecular and Cell BiologyUniversity of 
Connecticut91 N. Eagleville Rd.Storrs, CT 06269-3125860-486-2200


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List 3gm fuel issues

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

A friend in the club has a LF38 with a 3gm yanmar. Ran it out of fuel, now 
can't get it bled. We have fuel to the last chance fuel filter, but I can't 
find the bleed screw on the injector pump. Have tried to bleed the injector 
lines at the injectors to no avail. Anybody familiar with this we would love to 
hear.Thanks in advance.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Rebecca Leah 
LF39 ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Renaming

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

We had a great day yesterday renaming my boat. She is now known as the Rebecca 
Leah, named after my 2 daughters who were able to join us with their husbands. 
I hope it was not a bad sign but a test of the gods. Right after denaming we 
dropped a light in the water, was able to fish it out. After renaming 
girlfriend was steering (chart plotter had gone blank) and we had a soft 
grounding in front of her house. Using rudder and the engine was able to turn 
enough to to fill the main (only sail up) put everyone on the rail and sailed 
off. So we headed to the bar and got caught in current that flows in the 
Bremerton marina on first attempt, second try made it look easy.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 ___

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Re: Stus-List Renaming ceremony

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Lol. I think being teetotalers on a boat named Rum Runner IV is great. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 New boatLF39 
 Original message From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/4/17  08:08  (GMT-08:00) To: Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List  Cc: Danny Haughey  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Renaming ceremony 

that's awesome Fred!  LMAO
I got scared and decided to keep our boat's existing name...  Rum
  Runner IV.  Not a bad name I guess, not very fitting as the
  admiral and I are teetotalers...  I tell people we never sample
  the merchandise!




On 8/4/2017 10:27 AM, Frederick G
  Street via CnC-List wrote:



  
  Violeta — there’s a sailboat in my marina named Hummina.
   Say it three times over the VHF…   :^)
  

  
  — Fred


  
  



  

  


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis

  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield,
  WI
  

  

  
  
  





  
On Aug 4, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Violeta M I via
  CnC-List 
  wrote:


I think a boat name should
be easy to hear on the radio. I would keep a boat's
name, if I could (to avoid paperwork, if nothing else),
but some boat names are too much. Imagine saying them in
emergency over static and howling winds ... that's my
test.
  



  
  

  
  

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Re: Stus-List Renaming ceremony

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I have not backed up under sail as of yet. It was late last night when we 
renamed her. Daughters are on the way to the club for the renaming. Guess we'll 
have the renaming on the open water. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 New boatLF39 
 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/4/17  05:22  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Renaming ceremony 



if I remember correctly, a part of the denaming ceremony should be backing up 
the boat, preferably under the sail. Did you manage to do that (under the sail)?
 
Marek


 

From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, August 4, 2017 01:43
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: svpegasus38 
Subject: Stus-List Renaming ceremony


 


Renaming my new (to me) 1988 Landfall 39 on Friday. Significant Other will be 
stricken from Poseidon's records, and I will ask him to watch over all that 
sail on Rebecca Leah (after my daughters) from here on out. My daughter's will 
be at the ceremony
 and then a nice sail out on Puget Sound.  
I hope I haven't jinxed everything by posting this early. 
Just had the denaming ceremony. Lots of champagne both for us and the gods.
 
 
 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy 
POYC 
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38 
Unnamed 
LF39 




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Stus-List Renaming ceremony

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Renaming my new (to me) 1988 Landfall 39 on Friday. Significant Other will be 
stricken from Poseidon's records, and I will ask him to watch over all that 
sail on Rebecca Leah (after my daughters) from here on out. My daughter's will 
be at the ceremony and then a nice sail out on Puget Sound.  I hope I haven't 
jinxed everything by posting this early. Just had the denaming ceremony. Lots 
of champagne both for us and the gods.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Unnamed LF39 ___

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gm black smoke on start

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Might be injectors. Or plugged air intake. Check intake, make sure it is clean. 
Do you use any fuel additives? I use Soltron, it helps keep the injectors, and 
fuel clean. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus [for sale] Lf38 
New boat LF39 
 Original message From: Dave S via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/3/17  18:23  (GMT-08:00) To: C Stus List 
 Cc: Dave S  Subject: Stus-List 
Yanmar 2gm black smoke on start 
Evening all

This just started.  Black smoke on startups clears with rpm.  Have read that's 
unburnt fuel.  Have not serviced engine other than oil and filter... 
suggestions?  Tx.

Dave. 33-2

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Kevin, I know it is not a "race boat", but hAve you looked at a C landfall 
38? I have one that has been set up for single handing, has duel  quarter 
berths and best of all it is turnkey, and it is in Puget Sound already.   I am 
open to just about all offers.

http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?=Feet=3098253=en=broker&=westyachts&=westyachts;
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
New boat (renaming tomorrow) LF39 
 Original message From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/2/17  14:36  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Kevin Driscoll  Subject: 
Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40 
 I am putting feelers out there to see if you or someone you know may be 
getting ready / or willing to sell either the 36xl, 110, or 37/40xl soon or 
before summer 2018.  My wife and I (and 2 yr old & 1month old sons) are 
starting to look at our next boat. We've looked at the 36xl and the 37+/40, but 
have not sailed either boat.Here are our particulars:We are Pacific Northwest 
sailors out of Oregon. We currently have a 30 mkII, which we love, but the boys 
are cramping our space already.Primarily we cruise the Columbia River, year 
round, but are planning on keeping the boat in South Puget Sound summer 2018 
and running it up and down the coast back to Oregon Spring and Fall. We double 
hand, with lots of single handing as well.I race at least once a week and get a 
few ocean races in during the year. I would like to race our next boat 
occasionally on some double handed ocean races and occasional buoy race, but it 
is not completely necessary as there are always other boats I can race with.We 
generally spend every other weekend on the boat throughout most of the year, so 
we spend more time aboard than most. I don't want a 'fixer' as I feel it is a 
waste of time and money.We don't want a shoal draft. An aft cabin is a must for 
us, which puts most everything pre-1988 out of consideration as far as I can 
tellOpen to other brands (dare I say) but prefer to stay C me know if you 
have any ideas. 
Best,Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

All I can say is OMG. and I thought my new boat was bad with all the wires that 
go nowhere. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/31/17  22:44  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Hobson  Subject: 
Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...) 

Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
helpful advice really appreciate it. I’m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
electrical and figured I’d post a few photos because maybe something is 
glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 

I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
common it is to have two main battery switches like this.

Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
the other night from too much vino, it’s still dead and hasn’t recharged even 
though I’m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to my 
True-charge battery charger.

Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
test, or try to find if there’s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it’s a badly hardwired autopilot 
and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don’t know enough about bad wiring. 
So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing

Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.

Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
negative terminals.

Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.

Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.

Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
Cabin for battery switch #1.

The way I see it I have three options:

A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he’s booked till 
September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it out
C: Keep digging

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
C 30-1 #615
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Richard, I have my 1979 Landfall 38 for sale, if your interested. I moved up to 
the landfall 39. At least I think it was a move up. :-) Being a 2 boat 
owner...http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?=Feet=3098253=en=broker&=westyachts&=westyachts;


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/27/17  13:22  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Richard Gotthardt  Subject: 
Stus-List 35 MK III 
I'm looking for a boat and was wondering if there's a "boats for sale" section 
on cncphotoalbum.com ?
Is anyone familiar with this boat, or have any comments based on the scant 
information that's posted?
https://muskegon.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-mk-iii-sailboat/6235586493.html


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Re: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I felt the same 2 months ago when I bought my LF39. I had almost finished 
upgrading my other boat, a LF38. When my neighbor comes up to my girlfriend and 
says "we are selling Significant Other, are you interested?" Of course we go 
look (I had toured the boat before). Afterwards I ask how much? I am now a 2 
boat owner. Glad I did the move, really like new boat, not that I didn't like 
old boat. But now I have a whole list of new projects.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/26/17  07:08  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Hobson  Subject: 
Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going" 
Still squaring away the details for my second day of boat ownership on my new 
(to me) 1980 C 30 MK1. Yesterday when I signed the papers, got the keys and 
cracked a beer to watch my first sunset in the cockpit, I had mixed feelings of 
elation and a good dose of: oh-shit-I-just-bought-an-old-boat. Because who 
really knows if the surveyor missed something, or what’s going on between a 
hull and a keel joint. I’m not getting any younger and I feel like the fun 
happens when you jump in the water and figure it out as you go. Maybe we should 
change the definition of what a boat is: A hole in the water in which one 
jumps. Anyway I’m proud to be part of the group and always wanted a C I’m an 
Ontario boy who’s now on the west coast and ready for sailing, with a whopping 
to-do list to get through in the coming months. Wish me luck!

Chris


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Re: Stus-List Hillerange stove thermostat

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Suremarineservice.com. in Seattle 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/25/17  09:14  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: DON JONSSON  Subject: Stus-List 
Hillerange stove thermostat 
Hello all

I'm looking for a thermostat for a Hillerange oven.  It is on our 1981 C 34 
and it is the brown three burner, model number is 3121 and is also known as the 
Seaward Princess (I think).  The thermostat is part number 70400.  We cannot 
get our current one rebuilt in Seattle because our current one is for natural 
gas not propane and that is the problem.  Someone must have replaced it with 
the wrong one at some point and it has never worked since I have owned the 
boat.  The pilot light will not stay lit. 

If anyone happens to have a functioning one on a stove that is not longer used 
I would be interested.

Thanks
Don Jonsson
Swan Song, C 34
Victoria, B.C.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List synthetic oil

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Peter, the 10w-40 did not have the ash content required by the VW diesel 
engine. At least that was what I was told. That was also 25 years ago. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/24/17  10:31  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: PETER OCAMPO  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List synthetic oil 
Question  why would changing from 10w30 to 15w40. Destroy a Diesel vw engine?
My westerbeke 33 owner Manuel says 10w30 but previous owner had 15w40.  Should 
I go back to 10w30?   
Thanks
PeterGoonie island C 40 Portland me 

Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 24, 2017, at 1:15 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

A couple of mechanics have told me this as well.  If an older car has been 
using non-synthetic, then never change to synthetic since it might start leaks 
that didn't exist before.That said, most of our diesels never get the hours on 
the engine that an auto/truck get so it might be a moot point.RonWild CheriC 
30-1STL


   From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
 Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2017 6:10 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List synthetic oil
   
Mike,

There are some reports that synthetic oil may dissolve some of the residues 
left on different parts, which may lead to sudden increase of the oil usage. Of 
course, this applies to older engines. The general rule of thumb is that if you 
used non-synthetic oils in the past (and did it for years) you may want to stay 
with the same kind. If you used synthetics, there should be no issue switching 
to non-synthetic.

My personal experience is limited to a single car in the past, where I changed 
from normal to synthetic (the car was driven hard) and I ended up with an 
engine that burned about 1-1.5 l (1-2 qt.) of oil for 1000 km.

I don't believe that you could use oil that is "too good" for the engine. As 
long as it is the same grade, it should work fine.

In your case I would monitor how much oil is staying in the engine (and how 
much you burn).

Good luck

Marek
1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2017 11:45
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List synthetic oil

I had my brother pick up 15w40 for me last week. Changed oil today and when old 
oil drained realized he bought synthetic 15w40. Have outing today and no time 
to get regular oil. 

Plan to drain and change later this week to non synthetic

Is this an issue?

Yanmar 3gm30f
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Re: Stus-List synthetic oil

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I would ask a yanmar dealer. Years ago I put 10w-40, instead of 15w-40 in a VW 
diesel and destroyed the engine within 1000 miles. Short term 5 hours it should 
be ok but I am not an expert.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
 Date: 7/23/17  08:45  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Hoyt, Mike"  Subject: 
Stus-List synthetic oil 
I had my brother pick up 15w40 for me last week. Changed oil today and when old 
oil drained realized he bought synthetic 15w40. Have outing today and no time 
to get regular oil. 

Plan to drain and change later this week to non synthetic

Is this an issue?

Yanmar 3gm30f
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - prop

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

That was my complaint with the that prop on my LF38 hull #4 and Yes it is 
original. I switched to a fixed 3 blade it helped. I have a 3 blade max on my 
LF39 which is better still when docking. I will say that my LF39 docks a lot 
easier than my LF38 ever thought of docking. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Phygital via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/23/17  07:44  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Phygital  Subject: Stus-List 
Landfall 38 - prop 
Hi,
We've been out a few times now on our 83 LF 38 hull 155, and I've noticed she's 
 somewhat of a cow in tight maneuvering. It has a 2 blade fixed prop (original 
I believe) and doesn't have a lot of bite in close quarters (docking, 
maneuvering in marina, swinging stern around, stopping, etc ). Engine is a 
westerbeke 27 in great condition. Is this common/normal for this boat and prop? 
New prop? Suggestions welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Cassidy's FreeLF 38, #155Ontario

/J
On Jul 22, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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Re: Stus-List Voltages

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Charging voltage should be 2 volts battery voltage. The way I was thought was 
check battery voltage with batteries at rest (no draw or charging) then start 
engine and battery voltage should show 2 volts above previous reading. If it is 
higher you have a bad regulator lower most likely a bad alternator. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: RANDY via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/20/17  07:10  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: RANDY  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Voltages 
An update on this.  Monday morning I brought my batteries home (I've got two of 
these: 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Marine-Battery-Group-Size-29DC/20531539
 dated May/June 2014 with relatively light use and constantly maintained by a 
3amp solar charger).  And I bought this inexpensive charging unit: 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-Electric-15-Amp-Battery-Charger/46167057.
One battery measured 4.7v before charging, and the other 5.7v, according to the 
charger's test function.  Each battery was on the charger for about 33 hours to 
charge back up to 13.2v / 13.5v and 100% charge according to the charger.  I 
haven't measured their voltage independently after charging with a multi-meter, 
but I did that at the start of the season and they were healthy.
Put one of 'em back in the boat last night and connected it up, and my solar 
charge controller indicated it was charging, which was good.  Before, the 
batteries had gotten so depleted that the charge controller wasn't indicating 
it was charging them.
Now the only thing I haven't done is test the voltage coming off the alternator 
and regulator of my Atomic 4 to see if those components are working correctly.  
But I run the engine so little - a couple of ten-minute bursts per week - that 
I'm not sure how much charging it would contribute even if the alternator and 
regulator are working perfectly.
Chalk it up to negligence - I forgot to manually pump the bilge when I knew it 
had ice box drainage and rain water in it, and I forgot to turn off the main 
battery switch when leaving the boat one day.  A few lessons learned in this 
episode, and I don't really know how much life I took out of the batteries by 
depleting them so badly.  I'll be checking my batteries' charge levels with a 
multi-meter regularly now, as I don't have any kind of battery monitors (but 
here's a good article on them: http://www.pkys.com/Amp_Hour_Meters.htm).
Cheers,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO
From: "RANDY via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "RANDY" 
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 7:12:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltages

I may have a similar issue.  Went out for sail with guests today and discovered 
my batteries were dead.  Couldn't even light the florescent light over the 
dinette, let alone start the engine.  So, left and returned to dock under sail 
power.
Last Wednesday night, no problems with the electrical system.  I think the main 
battery switch may have been left on, running the depth meter and stereo 
display for three plus days.  It's also possible I had a bilge pump cycling.
My charge controller was indicating no charging of the batteries from the solar 
panel.  I don't know if that's a byproduct of dead batteries, or an issue with 
the charge controller or solar panel.
I'm thinking I should pull the batteries out of the boat, bring them home, and 
charge them, then put them back in the boat and see if the solar charging 
starts working again, and if the batteries drain again (with the main switch 
off and no water in the bilge this time).  I have a multi-meter and know how to 
use it and can diagnose the system from first principles if necessary.
The batteries were new in 2014 and are very clean and have the correct amount 
of water in them.  And the solar charging system has worked flawlessly to date, 
though its capacity is small.
Any suggestions?  Especially on what kind of charger to use to charge the 
batteries?
Thanks,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
To: "CnClist" 
Cc: "Dennis" 
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 6:14:22 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltages

I agree with Jim's recommendations.  If you do take them somewhere for testing 
and they tell you anything less than an hour to test, go somewhere else.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 6:22 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
wrote:
Tom, battery voltage should be tested after resting for an hour or more after 
charging. Your charging voltage sounds about in the right range, but you are 
measuring the voltage coming out of the charging source, not the battery. 13.2 
V is about minimum voltage to overcome internal 

Re: Stus-List Bow Light...now snaking best practices

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I agree with Dennis, but I would use heat shrink sealed butt splices to 
lengthen the wires, then put some sort of disconnectable (is that a word) in a 
dry area (v-berth). Less chance of water getting into wires or connections. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 7/16/17  12:23  (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bow Light...now snaking best practices 
Some thoughts.
If it's a welded pulpit base, I'd snake it from the locker to the light.  You 
don't know what the base of the pulpit looks like.  The pulpit tube is probably 
1 inch but the size of the hole in the base is unknown.  The cable could get 
hung if the hole is small.
If you're feeding from the locker, you can manipulate the cable to get it 
through the base and into the pulpit tube.
Next, stagger the cuts in the wires in the duplex cable.  That is, cut one off 
shorter than the other.  That will allow you to taper the cable.  You don't 
want a big lumpy spot that will hang up.
Consider a messenger line.  But don't use a flimsy one because there may be 
sharp edges at the base or the opening near the light that may cut the line.
Tape the ends and coat the tape with liquid soap.
You probably don't need more than 16 AWG for the run.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 1:21 PM, David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:






Doug...you nailed it.   Corroded connectors on anchor locker.   Should have 
thought of that myself.



So the connector was right where one of the wires exits the pulpit through deck 
so I  Need to run a new duplex wire through pulpit.   



My history of successfuly snaking wire is at best spotty.  And I do want to 
screw this one up.



Suggestions in connecting the new wire  to the old wire to assure we have a 
successful replacement?



Again thanks in advance. 



1981 40-2










Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone





 Original message 

From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 

Date: 7/16/17 1:40 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: svpegasus38 <svpegasu...@gmail.com> 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Light... 




You have a corroded wire/connection somewhere in the run. Most likely it is in 
or near the anchor locker. Or the fixture its self.Look for corrosion at any 
location where moisture could be. Water can wick up a wire several feet 
corroding it all the way.
 You can splice on new wire maybe in v-berth using the heat shrink butt 
splices.  










Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy 
POYC 
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38 
Significant Other 
LF39 





 Original message 
From: David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 7/16/17 10:18 (GMT-08:00) 
To: CNC CNC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: David <davidrisc...@msn.com> 
Subject: Stus-List Bow Light... 




...is only producing 6.75 volts.  I suspect it's grounding somewhere along its 
run. Before I do the dreaded refeeding of a new wire...any thoughts out there 
as to what I  might be missing?



FYI...Stern light is working fine...



Thanks in advance...










Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone





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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Make sure there is no metal near the flux compass. A frienfriend had this 
happen to him, found a spray can next to his flux compass. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF 39
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/16/17  10:58  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: Stus-List 
Raymarine Autopilot Question 
Listers,
Yesterday, on a dinner trip to Oyster Bay, our autopilot stated to malfunction 
after about an hour or so.
It would be holding a course, then start veering to port, then to starboard, 
then much more to port, then much more to starboard . . and so on. Eventually, 
it would get so far off (over 90 degrees), a the autopilot would disengage. I 
shut it down and tried to restart it by cutting power to it for about a minute, 
then it would happen again after a minute or two. 
I tries setting the p70 to “performance” to keep the boat more tightly on 
course, but that had no effect. The display kept showing how far off we were 
(so I know the EV sensor core was working), but it wasn’t correcting course 
properly. 
I ended up turning it off completely, in fears of getting a DUI inquiry from 
all the S-turns. 
Any ideas? To clarify, I have a ACU-200 and a ST4000+ wheel pilot. And, up 
until yesterday, it was working flawlessly. 

All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log___

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Re: Stus-List Bow Light...

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

You have a corroded wire/connection somewhere in the run. Most likely it is in 
or near the anchor locker. Or the fixture its self.Look for corrosion at any 
location where moisture could be. Water can wick up a wire several feet 
corroding it all the way. You can splice on new wire maybe in v-berth using the 
heat shrink butt splices.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: David via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/16/17  10:18  (GMT-08:00) To: CNC CNC 
 Cc: David  Subject: Stus-List Bow 
Light... 

...is only producing 6.75 volts.  I suspect it's grounding somewhere along its 
run. Before I do the dreaded refeeding of a new wire...any thoughts out there 
as to what I  might be missing?



FYI...Stern light is working fine...



Thanks in advance...










Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

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Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I had Garhauer custom make a traveler for my LF38. Was about $500. Great 
investment.  Turn time was about 3 weeks because I had my sailmaker handle it. 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/11/17  11:08  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II 
Call Guido at Garhauer. He made the traveler for my 38 with a tall track and 
the car sized to fit the well in the bridge deck. The hole spacing was made to 
match the pattern of the OEM traveler track. The length was custom for the 
boat. The turning blocks and cleats for the 6:1 adjuster lines were angled to 
allow adjusting from the helm when single handing. 
No extra charge for all the custom work.
And it probably cost less than half the cost of the Lewmar traveler.
Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad
On Jul 11, 2017, at 10:11, Sean Richardson via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Sylvain,

 

I’m looking to upgrade the original pin stop traveler on my
27 mkIII. How well did the Lewmar fit down in the original track recess and
does it clear the cockpit lockers on either side no problem? Would you happen to
have any pictures?

 

 

Sean

C 27 MKIII

LYNX
On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 7:37 PM, Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi, you may also want to take a look at Lewmar, their #1 model is fine on my 27 
( up to 36 feet supposedly), it runs on Torlon bearings an requires no 
drilling. Price was 400 can$ 3 years ago.Sylvain C 27 mkIII

Envoyé de mon iPhone
Le 2 mai 2017 à 07:58, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  a 
écrit :

I had a Harken.  Garhauer is 1/3 the price.
Joel
On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 12:30 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List  
wrote:
Harken Big Boat Traveler system, if you have a spare G-note or two lying in 
between the cushions on your couch. The original Schaefer stuff is obsolete at 
best, and not worth repairing. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 1 May 2017 at 19:10, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List  
wrote:





My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not turn 
easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or parts to 
repair the existing system?



Cheers, J-G 




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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
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___

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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

The full locker should not have been a factor, if the cooling system is 
functioning properly.  I had to motor 45 miles one hot August day. Could only 
go 4kts (1400 rpm) with the lazerett open. To keep the horn from sounding, i 
watched the yemp guage and kept it at 200-204deg. The horn and light came on at 
212deg. Found out my heat exchanger tubes were over 50% plugged. I cleaned them 
using muratic acid, and a long 1/8 drill bit to clean out the tubes. This 
solved my over heating problem.  If the engine is overloaded (or too much prop 
pitch) this can also lead to the engine running hot. Throttling Back 50-100 rpm 
will help this.  



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Doug Welch via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/9/17  07:17  (GMT-08:00) To: syerd...@gmail.com 
Cc: Doug Welch , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2 
We took a week and headed east (Trentport and back) and gradually loaded up the 
locker. Motor sailing on the return leg from Trenton to Cobourg the engine 
overheated. Fortunately the wind gods took pity on us and the wind piped up. We 
sailed for a couple of hours while the motor cooled. My wife sailed while I 
checked the impeller. It was in perfect shape. We unloaded the locker and the 
motor ran fine on the rest of our return to Frenchman's Bay. I think the 
overloading of the locker contributed to or was the cause of the overheating. 
My wife thinks we sucked up some weeds (we used the small boat channel going 
from Trenton to the Murray Canal). I am going to be more careful with what I 
place in the locker. I am still going to get more storage with the partition I 
installed but am going to avoid putting things like fenders, my code 0, etc. in 
the locker that will restrict air flow. 
Long windy entry but I do have a few questions for the group
My engine panel seems to a warning light for high temp that doesn't work. Do 
these lights work? (assuming the bulb works)
Do you think the overheating was caused by filling the locker? 

Has anyone installed additional ventilation in the locker? It seems like it 
would be relatively easy to install a vent and perhaps a small 12v fan to keep 
the air moving
Dave,    We ended up overnighting at the marina the Thursday before Canada Day 
and was just down the dock from you. Your boat is looking good.

Cheers, Doug WelchCeltic Knot85 33-2 c/b 

On Sunday, June 25, 2017 9:07 PM, "syerd...@gmail.com"  
wrote:
  

 Verrry interesting.    your refrigeration unit is in a completely 
different location.   Windstar has a plywood separator dividing the two spaces, 
but it's only a foot high at its tallest.  I was thinking after reading this 
thread to make a machine guard to cover the rotating parts, essentially leaving 
what I have intact.     Was in FB on Saturday, didn't think to look for you.  
Should have studied your boat more when you visited!Btw, Canada day and harbour 
day festivities are combined next weekend in Whitby.   Lots going on, probably 
the best weekend to visit if you can get a slip.  (I'm still on pier 7)

Dave.  
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 25, 2017, at 7:02 PM, Doug Welch  wrote:

Done 
C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator

  C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator By Imgur  Imgur: The most 
awesome images on the Internet.  
 

On Thursday, June 8, 2017 9:44 AM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  

 Thanks all for your input and ideas. I will share the solution I implement on

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
   On Wed, 7 Jun 2017 at 6:41 PM, Tortuga via CnC-List 
wrote:   On my 30, I use a piece of fishing net stretched between broom 
handles. I can drop the top handle to access the engine compartment. I try not 
to stow anything in the lazarette that is small enough to go through the net. 
So far so good. 
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AkpvkGQ7RaWRhvUpERLYFLJ4uYH1gQ

Derek Kennedy1979 C 30 mk1- TortugaBallantyne's Cove, NS
___

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 ___

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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I too am looking to replace my batteries. Current ones are group 27 agm's that 
have been in use since before 2003 when 2 owners ago installed them. I have 6 
house and 1 starting. Due to the location I have to stick with the AGM's. I 
will be following this thread, and chiming in if I find any good information.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 7/9/17  09:48  (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist 
 Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Battery replacement time 
Every boater has an opinion on batteries.  I've been using Delco Voyager wet 
cell batteries for almost 20 years.  Usually get 7-8 years life.  Except for 
the spill prevention aspect of AGMs, I think the Voyagers offer the most bang 
for the buck.  The pro fishermen like them also.
On the other hand, I just replaced the battery in my truck this morning.  
Advance Auto Motorcraft brand.  Didn't last 24 months.  Had to go through the 
idle relearn hassle.  Pain in the butt.  If it hadn't been a free replacement, 
I'd have switched the truck to Delco batteries.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 11:28 AM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:
Hi, Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31 Deep 
cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking advice for 
which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity for the money. 
 Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to other 
recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for trickle 
charging as on a mooring. Thanks for your advice. Tim29’ Mk1Malletts Bay, VTSV 
Sly Fox
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Re: Stus-List Volvo Penta 2003 flow lines

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

If it is the injector supply line. I would recommend replacing it. Cook engine 
in portland, Oregon helped a buddy of mine with the same engine. He swears by 
them. 503-289-8466. Give them a call.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Bill Hoyne via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/8/17  17:13  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Hoyne  Subject: Stus-List Volvo 
Penta 2003 flow lines 
Hi All,I have a Volvo Penta 2003 in my C 35 and I developed a leak in the 
flow line that screws into the injector. Diesel is leaking ( spurting) out 
between the bolt and the line just above the injector. I cleaned about 500cc 
out of the bilge :-(  I have not unscrewed it yet and before I do I would like 
to know what are the options? Can the fitting be re-soldered? Does it have to 
be replaced? Does anyone know where I can find  replacement flow lines - it’s 
from the early ’80’s. ( At a reasonable cost?)
Cheers,Bill HoyneMithrandir’74 C MkIIin Victoria,BC

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Stus-List LF38 for sale

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I am selling Pegasus my LF38 as I have upgraded to the LF39. I got 1 foot itis 
plus the queen bed in the act cabin is awesome  got a live aboard. Pegasus is a 
turnkey ready for extended cruising.  Which was my plan until the new boat came 
along. 
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?=Feet=3098253=en=broker&=westyachts&=westyachts;


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 ___

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Re: Stus-List Drone Video

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Very nice. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/1/17  16:55  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Drone Video 
The pilot got around to sending me the full length video in ultra high 
resolution.  I added music and trimmed the beginning and end.  Pretty cool.
https://youtu.be/uNgjeeNMBVA
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD


On Jul 1, 2017 7:37 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
wrote:
What a nice video!GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 27+East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~



On Thu, Jun 29, 2017 at 1:27 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
An amateur drone pilot spotted us while we were out sailing.  He searched our 
boat name and then tracked down our web page and email.  He shared the video 
and we put it on our facebook page, how cool!
 https://www.facebook.com/cbcsailing/videos/700045376848423/

Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com






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___



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Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission Repair

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Harbor marine in Everett wa  has a guy there that is an expert on the old 
paragon. (425) 259-3285 Not a lot to those old transmission as far as seals go. 
Can you see where it leaks at? Might just need a new shaft seal. The vee drive 
unit pops right off after removing a few bolts. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: Frank via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/29/17  06:59  (GMT-08:00) To: List Stus 
 Cc: Frank  Subject: Stus-List Paragon 
Transmission Repair 



The Paragon 
transmission in my C 38LF is leaking about 1/2 pint of oil in four running 
hours.
Doesn’t leak 
when not running.
Does anyone 
know of a repair facility that works on the old Paragon transmissions?
The data 
plate on the transmission indicates: 9844 SAOD Z-7970.
Thanks,

Frank 
Noragon
S/V: Cool Change
C 38LF, s/n: 001
Rose City Yacht 
Club
Portland, Oregon

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Re: Stus-List Air in fuel line #2

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I had a 2 micron filter 4 feet before the engine filter housing (had to pull 
heat exchanger to change it). Before the 2 micron canister filter was a 30 
micron racors 500 filter.  Never had a problem with the engine fuel supply in 
10 years. I always used Soltron when I got fuel. Only time I had a problem was 
coming across the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Engine died in flat calm water, 
changed both filters restarted engine and was off again. I had forgot to change 
the filter for about 5 years. Oops. 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: Gary Smith via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/26/17  10:53  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Gary Smith  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Air in fuel line #2 
I'd be very interested in the outcome. As I said, in my experience both the old 
and new Racor filters suffered from the same problem with the 2 micron cassette 
installed. A new racor unit was installed as part of the fault diagnosis.

My Yanmar has a 2 micron filter situated right on the engine (very short hoses) 
and after the fuel lift pump, it has a 10 micron filter before the pump. I 
really believe that your problem is a 2 micron filter under vacuum.

On 26 June 2017 at 15:34, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
wrote:


Thanks for your responses. To answer some of the questions raised, the pumps 
were placed downstream of the Racor for a couple of reasons.




1. The pump original location was upstream of the Racor (30 micron) which was 
recommended by the Beta engineer because these small pumps do not have much 
vertical lift capability. OTOH, their internals have a very small orifice that 
can and did block the fuel flow since it was unfiltered at that location. Since 
they were in-line pumps, the solution was to swap out the pump or filter (some 
have a small one on the inlet to the pump). However, doing this in the small 
confines of the pump location was a giant PITA, especially since they failed 
while the motor was in use--while on the water! Rigging a parallel set in this 
upstream location was also difficult because of the limited space.





2. To mitigate this failure possibility, 2 pumps with check valves were 
installed in parallel powered by the ignition switch, with another switch that 
would select which pump to use. Both of these have enough lift capability (I 
think!) to suck filtered fuel thru the Racor and push it to the primary filter. 
They certainly pumped fuel well when I took the hose off the engine 
filter--albeit initially with frothy fuel or just air in the line. Plus at this 
location, any fuel they see has passed thru the Racor so they are very unlikely 
to clog themselves.





3. My diesel mechanic is to determine the source of the problem today--if he 
can. If not, he will replace the pick-up tube assembly and install a new, 
possibly different Racor filter/separator. IMHO, the model I have (500?) has a 
poorly designed, double O-ring top seal, which on my boat is impossible to see 
because of where the Racor is mounted (high and on the other side from the 
access panel). Getting the filter replaced, complete with 2 new O rings, is 
possible but not easy. Plus there is no way I can determine if the seas are 
clean except by 'feel'.





Maybe I will know more by tonight--if nothing else, both the Racor and the 
pickup assemble will be 'new'.





Thanks again for your thoughts,





Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36XL/kcb








cenel...@aol.com




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Re: Stus-List Air in fuel line #2

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I installed a vacuum gauge down stream of the racors. With new filters vacuum 
was almost nil, both at idle and cruise power. As the filters get dirty the 
vacuum will increase. Going to put a similar system on new boat. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/26/17  06:34  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Stus-List Air in fuel line 
#2 


Thanks for your responses. To answer some of the questions raised, the pumps 
were placed downstream of the Racor for a couple of reasons.




1. The pump original location was upstream of the Racor (30 micron) which was 
recommended by the Beta engineer because these small pumps do not have much 
vertical lift capability. OTOH, their internals have a very small orifice that 
can and did block the fuel flow since it was unfiltered at that location. Since 
they were in-line pumps, the solution was to swap out the pump or filter (some 
have a small one on the inlet to the pump). However, doing this in the small 
confines of the pump location was a giant PITA, especially since they failed 
while the motor was in use--while on the water! Rigging a parallel set in this 
upstream location was also difficult because of the limited space.





2. To mitigate this failure possibility, 2 pumps with check valves were 
installed in parallel powered by the ignition switch, with another switch that 
would select which pump to use. Both of these have enough lift capability (I 
think!) to suck filtered fuel thru the Racor and push it to the primary filter. 
They certainly pumped fuel well when I took the hose off the engine 
filter--albeit initially with frothy fuel or just air in the line. Plus at this 
location, any fuel they see has passed thru the Racor so they are very unlikely 
to clog themselves.





3. My diesel mechanic is to determine the source of the problem today--if he 
can. If not, he will replace the pick-up tube assembly and install a new, 
possibly different Racor filter/separator. IMHO, the model I have (500?) has a 
poorly designed, double O-ring top seal, which on my boat is impossible to see 
because of where the Racor is mounted (high and on the other side from the 
access panel). Getting the filter replaced, complete with 2 new O rings, is 
possible but not easy. Plus there is no way I can determine if the seas are 
clean except by 'feel'.





Maybe I will know more by tonight--if nothing else, both the Racor and the 
pickup assemble will be 'new'.





Thanks again for your thoughts,





Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36XL/kcb








cenel...@aol.com



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Re: Stus-List Sailing NS to NY

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Would love to join you but hAve prior commitment.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/24/17  14:05  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton  Subject: 
Stus-List Sailing NS to NY 
Hi everyone,
I have to bring a racer/cruiser from exotic Halifax, Nova Scotia to NY leaving 
around July 14. I am in need of a third hand for the trip. The boat is an Xp 
44. It's an excellent boat (I brought it back after they won the Bermuda race 
last summer); kind of a modern take on what our boats might have been like if 
they'd been designed last year instead of 40 years ago! 
Anyway, if anyone would like to sign on for the trip drop me a line or call. I 
have room for one or two people. All reasonable expenses will be on me. My mate 
and I plan on going up a day early and renting a car to have a look around the 
area before we head to the boat.

Cheers
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I added a cable for the compression release also on the 3qm30 on Pegasus. Works 
great for starting. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: billbruce--- via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/24/17  13:46  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: billbr...@ns.sympatico.ca Subject: Re: Stus-List 
engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement 

 
  
   I recently purchased a shut off cable at "Parts For Trucks" in Dartmouth NS. 
It has Engine Shut Off stamped right on the red pull knob. I had to cut 
thecable it of to shorten it for an exact fit, but otherwise am very pleased 
with it. Total cost was under $30 bucks.
   

   
Bill Bruce
   
Landfall 38
  
 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Lighting and pumps

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Great deal on the pump. As for the running light. Look for corrosion at any and 
all connections.  Led lights are dimmed by lowering the voltage. It doesn't 
take much to drop 2 volts. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/17  19:21  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Adam Hayden  Subject: 
Stus-List Lighting and pumps 


Hey Listers.  





I was very fortunate last week.  I noticed a drip coming from the seawater pump 
on my Yanmar 3HM.  Anyway I removed it as I thought the impeller was going.  
Turns out the seals were just about dissolved apart and the bearings were 
almost seized.  I took it
 in to a local shop and 60 bucks later and 40 in parts it is as good as new.  





My question today is that I noticed when we got back in tonight the starboard 
running light apears substantially dimmer compared to the port light or the 
stern light.  These are led lights.  Any ideas why this would happen?  
Connections seem fine






Thanks





Adam Hayden



C 36



STATE OF BLISS 






Get Outlook for Android



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Re: Stus-List Myanmar 3jh2e temp gauge pegged

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Sounds like a bad gauge if it is still pegged with power off. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/19/17  19:01  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC 
discussion list  Cc: bwhitmore  
Subject: Stus-List Myanmar 3jh2e temp gauge pegged 
Hello all,
You can imagine my discomfort when I looked down and found the temperature 
gauge pegged as we were approaching a bridge.
I put my wife on the helm and went down below to check out the engine as water 
flow out the exhaust sounded good and we weren't throwing off steam.  I was 
able to hold my hand with only mild discomfort on the hot water heater hoses.
When I got to the dock I turned off the engine and the gauge stayed pegged.  
When I go to start the engine I can see the gauge jump a little bit.  I've also 
turned off all power entirely including all circuit breakers and the battery 
switches and the gauge stays pegged, so I don't think it is linked to a 
grounded sender.
What say you folks?  Bad gauge?
I have yet to crawl in and disconnect wire at the back of the gauge as a test.  
Will do that next weekend.
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore1994 C 37/40+Astralis Madeira Beach, FL




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel conditioners

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Thanks for the advice. I do have a diesel in S.O. guess I am pumping out the 
nasty stuff and scrubbing the tank. Then I am going to leave it empty. Won't 
need 90 gallons of fuel for another 3 years when I sever the dock lines for 
good. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 6/18/17  10:47  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Irvin <skis...@outlook.com> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Fuel conditioners 

I swear by it. Have used it in the Atomic 4 as long as I have had my boat. Hard 
to get in Canada but readily available in US auto stores.
Moyer even recommends it.



Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 18, 2017, at 12:55 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:






Hi all, 
My new (to me) boat has water in all 3 fuel tanks. And one tank hasn't been 
used in 14 years, but is full, or mostly so. 
An old salt told me that in the old days they swore by Marvel Mystery oil. Has 
anyone heard of this? . I have used Soltron in the past with good results. 
Trying to figure the best (easiest and cheapest) way to clean this tank. There 
is a clean out on it.
  
May question is would I be better off hiring a company to come and polish the 
fuel or try and do it myself?  










Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy 
POYC 
Pegasus 
Lf38 
Significant Other 
LF39




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!