Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

An interesting post, as I am considering how and where to install the long
tracks I got to upgrade our 35mk2. So the small inner track allows one to
trim the genoa with more curve by bringing it inboard in lighter wind?
Currently, my genoa uses a block on the toerail, and the jib uses the
factory track, which is almost at the cockpit coaming. So by moving the
genoa sheet to the track, I should be able to get more curve? I will have
to try this. I can see the lifelines might be an issue though, as they can
be when running closehauled with the genoa on the toerail.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 9:13 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Welcome Larry,
> I don't think the email server can handle pics but you got away with it.
>
> My understanding is the following:
> The long Genoa track is for the #1s and #2 if you have those.  155% down
> to 120%.  It is the track you will use most of the time and has an
> adjustable car.  The short track inside of this on the cockpit coaming is
> to sheet those same genoas in lighter wind when you want more curve, and
> sheeting to the longer track makes the sail too flat.   The forward track
> is for smaller headsails like a #3, #4, 110% down to storm jib.
>
> Google "Barberhauler"  and you will see some ways to change the lead
> without undoing the usual sheets.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
>
> 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Welcome Larry,
I don't think the email server can handle pics but you got away with it.

My understanding is the following:
The long Genoa track is for the #1s and #2 if you have those.  155% down to 
120%.  It is the track you will use most of the time and has an adjustable car. 
 The short track inside of this on the cockpit coaming is to sheet those same 
genoas in lighter wind when you want more curve, and sheeting to the longer 
track makes the sail too flat.   The forward track is for smaller headsails 
like a #3, #4, 110% down to storm jib. 

Google "Barberhauler"  and you will see some ways to change the lead without 
undoing the usual sheets.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

http://superb.kcmaps.com

Pierre Tremblay

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

http://have.thesportsbrandingagency.com

Allan Rheaume

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Not the poster’s fault. Hacked...

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2018, at 18:52, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> He was probably hacked
> Ron
> 
> 
> On Monday, May 28, 2018, 6:45:26 PM EDT, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or 
> anything else we are discussing on this list
> 
> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
> 
> http://service. curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com
> 
>  
> 
> Erik Hillenmeyer
> 
>  
> 
> 
> __ _
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 He was probably hackedRon

On Monday, May 28, 2018, 6:45:26 PM EDT, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or 
anything else we are discussing on this list
On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:


 

http://service. curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com

 

Erik Hillenmeyer

 

__ _

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or
anything else we are discussing on this list

On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> http://service.curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com
>
>
>
> Erik Hillenmeyer
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List change subject reminder

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

It is little wonder people get frustrated and 
leave when this list looks more like a chat line 
then a problem solving, albeit somewhat humourous 
at times (damn, I miss those days). As an old 
codger I can say the quality of discussion 
degraded when people started getting their email 
message (and replying) on the G*d damn phones. 


Anyhow, to the point. The subject line needs to 
be change when you drift away from the main thread content.


And if your email client puts [EXTERNAL] or 
something like that in the subject line then 
please strip that as it screws up a "sort by 
subject" action... but bless you for checking the list during work hours :)


Below is an example of a badly presented reply 
that needs to be cleaned before being sent. It is 
not meant to single out Rod.  (note phone source, like, who cares?).


Best regards, Russ

===

At 03:35 AM 4/6/2018, you wrote:
I think there is a lot that does not need to go 
to everybody but I guess that is a personal 
choice .  I’ll manage the accounts so I 
don’t get 50 emails a day on my laptop, phone 
and desktop. Rod Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 6, 
2018, at 6:56 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Short answer 
is Yes we do. > > Have your email client 
organize incoming mail into folders using rules. 
I use outlook and anything with Stubs List, 
Frees List, etch ... goes into folder called 
mail lists rather than to inbox > > Mike > 
Persistence > Halifax > 
 > From: 
CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on 
behalf of Rod Stright via CnC-List 
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > Sent: April 5, 2018 
4:28 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Rod 
Stright > Subject: Re: Stus-List 
[EXTERNAL]   Re:  Marine Batteries > > Do we 
always need to copy everyone on the list about 
everything.  Gets pretty ridiculous with the 
number of emails.  No wonder people 
unsubscribe > > Rod > > From: CnC-List 
<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of 
Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > Sent: 
April-05-18 3:01 PM > To: 
'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
<joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> > Subject: Re: 
Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries > > 
Sams Club had their private label golf carts for 
$89 each. Like their AGMs, I think they are 
Dekas. > I will one day switch to golf carts 
when I figure out how to mount them. They will 
not fit where I have my batteries now. One nice 
thing about them is abuse is not instant death. 
Mild overcharging can be fixed with water and 
mild undercharging will resolve with 
equalization. Gels never get better once 
abused. > > Joe > Coquina > > From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List > Sent: 
Thursday, April 05, 2018 1:50 PM > To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  
> Cc: Frederick G Street > Subject: [EXTERNAL] 
Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries > > By contrast, 
my Trojan T105 golf cart batteries run around 
$150.00 each; a pair of them has twice the 
amp-hour capacity at 12 volts as a single Group 
31.  I’m on my seventh year with them, and 
they’re still performing well. > > Fred Street 
-- Minneapolis > S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 
38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( > > On 
Apr 5, 2018, at 12:37 PM, Charles Nelson via 
CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
wrote: > > A few years ago I replaced my 
batteries with Northstar? 31. They were rated 
very high, we’re the heaviest #31s (lots of 
lead) and they claim to use only ‘virgin’ 
lead, not recycled lead, which they claim lasts 
longer. Came with a 2 or 3 year full replacement 
warranty with the remaining 3 or 2 years out to 
5 years prorated. Expensive (~$300 each) but 
still going after almost 3 years. > I mostly 
club race so I can’t speak to cruising use. 
They are only on a charger for a few hours 
before a race and have never purposely been 
drawn down significantly. > YMMV > Charlie 
Nelson > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb > Water 
Phantom > > > 
[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient> 
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>  
> > 
___ > 
 > Thanks everyone for supporting this list 
with your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > 

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I used the key way, but I understand that some rudders have the key way
extend down further than others.  So you may be able to use the key way or
not.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> Did you just use the key-way or did you drill through the rudder post as
> well?  I really like how you installed it all at home and then just glassed
> in the shelf!
> Danny
>
>
> On 10/27/2017 11:24 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi Doug,
>  I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out
> great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything
> stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:
>
> Gary
> ​
>  High Maintenance Autopilot Project
> <https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwQRSP2fYIFmbWJHUy1vcXI0dUU>
> ​
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have
>> to cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.
>>
>>
>> Doug Allardyce
>> _/)~~~_/) 
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Gary
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
>> *To:* C List
>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>>
>> Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on
>>> a 34
>>> plus or 37/40.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Doug Allardyce
>>> _/)~~~_/) 
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

I “copied” Gary’s design and am happy with the results.  My rudder shaft did 
not have a keyway (Gary’s had one) so I ended up having to drill a 3/8” hole 
through a 3” stainless steel tube with ½” thick walls.  Edson makes an 
appropriate tiller arm with a 3/8” hole pre-drilled.  I used a drill bushing to 
start with a 1/8” pilot hole.  If you end up having to drill your shaft, let me 
know.  I have a drill bushing 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug 
Allardyce via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 12:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Allardyce
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Thank again Gary. This is very helpful. You did a great job laying everything 
out and then executing. No mysteries now on what needs to be done. Great 
installation.

 

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

-Original Message-



 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thank again Gary. This is very helpful. You did a great job laying everything 
out and then executing. No mysteries now on what needs to be done. Great 
installation.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 11:25 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Hi Doug,
   I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out 
great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything 
stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:


  Gary
  ​
   High Maintenance Autopilot Project​



  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to 
cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it. 


  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on 
a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Gary,

Did you just use the key-way or did you drill through the rudder post as 
well?  I really like how you installed it all at home and then just 
glassed in the shelf!


Danny

On 10/27/2017 11:24 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Doug,
     I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked 
out great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so 
everything stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures 
below:


Gary
​
High Maintenance Autopilot Project 
<https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwQRSP2fYIFmbWJHUy1vcXI0dUU>

​

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you
have to cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the
auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

-Original Message-
*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>]*On Behalf Of *Gary
Russell via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
*To:* C List
*Cc:* Gary Russell
    *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck
autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and
have gone up again.  October will be our fund raising
month.  Please consider sending a small contribution to
help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>

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___

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up again.  October will be our fund raising month. Please consider
sending a small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>

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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
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contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,
 I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out
great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything
stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:

Gary
​
 High Maintenance Autopilot Project
<https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwQRSP2fYIFmbWJHUy1vcXI0dUU>
​

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to
> cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
> _/)~~~_/) 
>
> -Original Message-
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Gary
> Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>
> Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a
>> 34
>> plus or 37/40.
>>
>>
>>
>> Doug Allardyce
>> _/)~~~_/) 
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to cut 
a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.


  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


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___

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contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a
> 34
> plus or 37/40.
>
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
> _/)~~~_/) 
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi John,

First suggestion is to check the Photoalbum site to se if your manual 
is listed in the resources sections. Then talk with a few old guys at 
your marina. If that doesn't work out well enough, post a few more 
details here and we'll take a stab at it.


:)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 11:45 AM 22/07/2017, you wrote:

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Re: Stus-List (no subject) -> Raymarine repair and firmware update experience

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Dave,

A while back I noticed that my Raymarine SPX-5 autopilot did not have the most 
recent firmware, but at that time I did not rush to update as I had no 
mechanism, like you, to do so.  To me it was not a major issue as the autopilot 
was working fine.  I operated it as stand alone device which I would mainly use 
to maintain a course heading or to occasionally assist in tacking.   

During it’s 4th or 5th year of use (after warranty), I started having problems 
with the autopilot drifting off course, then failing to recalibrate, and 
finally not working at all.  I called Raymarine and a tech had me measure the 
resistance across several wires to check the compass and measure voltage at the 
wheel drive.  After doing so, a tech stated that the problem was with the 
course computer, and that I need to send it in for repair.   I sailed my 29 for 
another year without a working autopilot before removing it and selling the 
vessel after purchasing my Landfall 38.  

Shortly before splashing the LF38 after some refitting, I sent the autopilot 
computer to Raymarine to see how much it was going to cost to fix it.  Over the 
phone, I was told that it would be a minimum of $99 for out of warranty repair 
work.  About a week after sending it in, I started calling to inquire on the 
repair.   The customer rep. took my contact info and told me they would contact 
me with a day or so.  The very next day, the unit arrived via UPS fully 
repaired and with an updated firmware.  I was expecting a pricey repair charge, 
but the only cost to me was the original USPS shipping fee to Raymarine. 

In your case, If the p70 firmware update provide important fixes or new must 
have functionality, you could look into sending it to Raymarine for the 
updating.  My guess is that they will do it free of charge.  I know it is not 
ideal, but at least it’s an option.

I have to admit, it was mostly this experience with Raymarine that later led me 
to purchasing a Raymarine e7d chart plotter, a Ray depth transducer, and a Ray 
Speed/Log/Temp system over other brands.  And recently an EV-200 autopilot (but 
with the octopus 1212LAR12 linear drive). 


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 21, 2016, at 8:57 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Graham/all - to be clear, to me the issue is not so much being able to update 
> one Manufacturer's firmware from another's device, it's about not being able 
> to update it at all, without a MFD  (hence the 'accessories to MFD subject 
> line').  Raymarine could easily have elected to permit updates by some other 
> means at the network level or at the device, but didn't.  
> 
> Read the manual before buying?  Just dug them out and here's  what it says in 
> my pristine p70 autopilot controller manual:
> 
> '- software revision
> Raymarine regularly updates product software to add new features and improve 
> existing functionality.  This document covers lighthouse version 3.xx which 
> should be used in conjunction with ev... Blah blah 
> Check the raymarine website to ensure you have the latest software and user 
> manuals.'
> 
> That's all it says, and I'm a bit surprised.  They address that software 
> updates  are part of ownership, and (rightly) offer and encourage the happy 
> new autopilot purchaser to update their software, even helpfully directing 
> them to the website.(Sounds great, here's my money!). One minor detail 
> seems to have been omitted...  
> 
> It been an interesting topic to explore, with interesting perspectives.   
> I'll  figure out a way to sort it.   I like the raymarine instruments and 
> their people were accessible and courteous.  The more I dig into it though, 
> the more convinced I am that their approach to this is unethical, 
> irrespective of how one might feel about their broader strategy.   (The 
> manual ices it.). Anyway, now we know, as will others who read the 
> discussion. 
> 
> I didn't hate them, but I'm starting to.
> 
> Mic drop... ;-)
> 
> Dave

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Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick


If I  decide to switch, I would likely do the 46 size.it just fits on the 
coaming top and should have the power for the 150..


We sailed in the ONE Regatta over the weekend and both days started out below 
8kts but built to just over 15kts by the finish..that's definitely very 
near the limit for my 150, but we only had 4 crew and changing down to the 135 
was never an option..


I'm still unsure how to select the Pontos winch type,  the "trimmer" is 
suggested as more powerful.but the "grinder" is supposed to be 
faster..we definitely needed both yesterday.


And my useage is only for Genoa work..halyards and such are no problem at 
this time.


Thanks again

Ron


Get Outlook for Android






On Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 10:31 PM -0400, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:












I got the power ratio numbers from the winch performance information for the 
Grinder 40 on the Defender website.

 

I see that 1st & 2nd gears on the Trimmer are the same as 3rd & 4th on the 
Grinder.

 

14 CM  of line recovery per handle revolution in the fastest gear for the 
Trimmer. One of the metric folks on the list help me… that’s, what, 5.5 inches? 
And 1.4 CM in the lowest gear is about 6/10ths of an inch per revolution?

 

Max working load is 1870 pounds for both the Grinder & Trimmer. I wonder what 
the sheet loads are on a 155 on a 38 mk2 in 15 knots of true wind? According to 
the Harken calculator, for my 135 in 20 knots apparent (which is around 13 or 
14 true) the sheet load is 969 pounds.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2016 5:50 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

I am not sure where Rick got his numbers.  I looked into this recently after an 
elbow injury made me consider replacing my Baronet 28s.  The Pontos Trimmer 4 
speed ($1600) has a power ratio of 113 in its maximum power gear.  If I replace 
my winches at some point, that is what I am planning to use.  Dave

 

On Aug 26, 2016, at 10:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

 

Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. But…

 

The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it has 
the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. (And 
that I have installed as primaries on my C)

 

Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

Core Microscopy Facility Director

University of Connecticut  

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

 




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I got the power ratio numbers from the winch performance information for the 
Grinder 40 on the Defender website.

 

I see that 1st & 2nd gears on the Trimmer are the same as 3rd & 4th on the 
Grinder.

 

14 CM  of line recovery per handle revolution in the fastest gear for the 
Trimmer. One of the metric folks on the list help me… that’s, what, 5.5 inches? 
And 1.4 CM in the lowest gear is about 6/10ths of an inch per revolution?

 

Max working load is 1870 pounds for both the Grinder & Trimmer. I wonder what 
the sheet loads are on a 155 on a 38 mk2 in 15 knots of true wind? According to 
the Harken calculator, for my 135 in 20 knots apparent (which is around 13 or 
14 true) the sheet load is 969 pounds.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2016 5:50 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

I am not sure where Rick got his numbers.  I looked into this recently after an 
elbow injury made me consider replacing my Baronet 28s.  The Pontos Trimmer 4 
speed ($1600) has a power ratio of 113 in its maximum power gear.  If I replace 
my winches at some point, that is what I am planning to use.  Dave

 

On Aug 26, 2016, at 10:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. But…

 

The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it has 
the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. (And 
that I have installed as primaries on my C)

 

Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

Core Microscopy Facility Director

University of Connecticut  

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

 

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am not sure where Rick got his numbers.  I looked into this recently after an 
elbow injury made me consider replacing my Baronet 28s.  The Pontos Trimmer 4 
speed ($1600) has a power ratio of 113 in its maximum power gear.  If I replace 
my winches at some point, that is what I am planning to use.  Dave

> On Aug 26, 2016, at 10:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
> Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
> shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. 
> But…
>  
> The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it 
> has the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. 
> (And that I have installed as primaries on my C)
>  
> Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
> with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
> 52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. But…

 

The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it has 
the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. (And 
that I have installed as primaries on my C)

 

Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 1:25 PM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

$1600

On Aug 26, 2016 1:21 PM, "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com 
<mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Way better priced than I thought!

http://www.defender.com/pontos.jsp

Josh

On Aug 26, 2016 1:04 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Thanks Josh…….have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!

Josh

On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36 has a 
power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I mentioned 
would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55 pounds for my 
135. 

 

The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey 
(though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.

 

You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get 32ST 
conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be able to put 
32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up. The bases on my 
32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s and use them for your 
spinnaker – for which they work well.

 

I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the 
winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the 
grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out to 
the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long winch 
handle is still problematic.

 

Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of 
“winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to upgrade 
the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a spot on one 
of those TV reality shows.

 

Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could exert a 
max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100 pulling up, and 
125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50 pound number). The 
information about selecting winches from the Harken site currently recommends 
keeping the force level around 35 for longer term comfort and a mixed sex crew.

 

BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:

 

(Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X 6) 
/force = power ratio

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of rjcasciato via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net <mailto:rjcasci...@comcast.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Thanks Rick and Josh...

 

To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the 
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.  The 
lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...

 

So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was 
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid 
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual process 
of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very well to her 
rating in PHRF.

These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at least 
once by me

 

We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batte

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

$1600
On Aug 26, 2016 1:21 PM, "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Way better priced than I thought!
>
> http://www.defender.com/pontos.jsp
>
> Josh
> On Aug 26, 2016 1:04 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Josh…….have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
>> Muckley via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
>> *To:* C List
>> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>>
>>
>>
>> Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
>> has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
>> mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
>> pounds for my 135.
>>
>>
>>
>> The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
>> (though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.
>>
>>
>>
>> You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And
>> get 32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be
>> able to put 32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up.
>> The bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s
>> and use them for your spinnaker – for which they work well.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
>> winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
>> grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out
>> to the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long
>> winch handle is still problematic.
>>
>>
>>
>> Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple
>> of “winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to
>> upgrade the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a
>> spot on one of those TV reality shows.
>>
>>
>>
>> Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
>> exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
>> pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50
>> pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
>> currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
>> comfort and a mixed sex crew.
>>
>>
>>
>> BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:
>>
>>
>>
>> (Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X
>> 6) /force = power ratio
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *rjcasciato
>> via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Rick and Josh...
>>
>>
>>
>> To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient
>> 28ST's.the width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures
>> at 8.5" now.  The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the
>> winch...
>>
>>
>>
>> So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
>> sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
>> 80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
>> process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
>> well to her rating in PHRF.
>>
>> These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at
>> least once by me
>>
>>
>>
>> We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a
>> 110.
>>
>>
>>
>> It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
>>
>>
>>
>> I like the idea of longer handles but there's the i

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Way better priced than I thought!

http://www.defender.com/pontos.jsp

Josh
On Aug 26, 2016 1:04 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Thanks Josh…….have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!
>
> Josh
>
> On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
> has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
> mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
> pounds for my 135.
>
>
>
> The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
> (though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.
>
>
>
> You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get
> 32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be
> able to put 32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up.
> The bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s
> and use them for your spinnaker – for which they work well.
>
>
>
> I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
> winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
> grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out
> to the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long
> winch handle is still problematic.
>
>
>
> Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of
> “winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to
> upgrade the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a
> spot on one of those TV reality shows.
>
>
>
> Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
> exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
> pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50
> pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
> currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
> comfort and a mixed sex crew.
>
>
>
> BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:
>
>
>
> (Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X
> 6) /force = power ratio
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *rjcasciato
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Thanks Rick and Josh...
>
>
>
> To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the
> width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.
> The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...
>
>
>
> So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
> sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
> 80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
> process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
> well to her rating in PHRF.
>
> These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at
> least once by me
>
>
>
> We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.
>
>
>
> It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
>
>
>
> I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the
> lifelines, etc.
>
>
>
> I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..
>
> Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative
> to their pricing..
>
> Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make
> it
>
>
>
> Thanks again
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00)
>
>

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I was thinking $4k each but no.  I'll see what I can find.
On Aug 26, 2016 1:04 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Thanks Josh…….have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!
>
> Josh
>
> On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
> has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
> mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
> pounds for my 135.
>
>
>
> The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
> (though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.
>
>
>
> You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get
> 32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be
> able to put 32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up.
> The bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s
> and use them for your spinnaker – for which they work well.
>
>
>
> I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
> winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
> grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out
> to the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long
> winch handle is still problematic.
>
>
>
> Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of
> “winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to
> upgrade the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a
> spot on one of those TV reality shows.
>
>
>
> Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
> exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
> pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50
> pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
> currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
> comfort and a mixed sex crew.
>
>
>
> BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:
>
>
>
> (Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X
> 6) /force = power ratio
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *rjcasciato
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Thanks Rick and Josh...
>
>
>
> To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the
> width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.
> The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...
>
>
>
> So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
> sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
> 80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
> process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
> well to her rating in PHRF.
>
> These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at
> least once by me
>
>
>
> We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.
>
>
>
> It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
>
>
>
> I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the
> lifelines, etc.
>
>
>
> I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..
>
> Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative
> to their pricing..
>
> Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make
> it
>
>
>
> Thanks again
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh...have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!

Josh

On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

One occasionally sees Barient 36's on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
pounds for my 135. 

 

The Lewmar EVO65ST's on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
(though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.

 

You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get
32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be able
to put 32ST's in place of the 28ST's for something like $2500 all up. The
bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s and
use them for your spinnaker - for which they work well.

 

I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
grinder. Don't do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out to
the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long winch
handle is still problematic.

 

Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of
"winch apes" from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to upgrade
the winches? Tell them it's cross-fit training and will get them a spot on
one of those TV reality shows.

 

Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I'm certain of the 50
pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
comfort and a mixed sex crew.

 

BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:

 

(Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X 6)
/force = power ratio

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> list.com] On Behalf Of rjcasciato via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Thanks Rick and Josh...

 

To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.
The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...

 

So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
well to her rating in PHRF.

These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at least
once by me

 

We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.

 

It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.

 

I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the
lifelines, etc.

 

I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..

Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative to
their pricing..

Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make
it

 

Thanks again 

Ron

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 

Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> 

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII 

 

38ST's? Those must be huge.

 

I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi with Barient 32s
(equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I'm in the process of
upgrading to 32ST's to make single handing easier. 

 

But even with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135
headsail I now use is easier, but I can't imagine that I would want anything
smaller unless I was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not
going out in winds of 20 apparent or more. 

 

I've tried using the Barient 28 secondaries (equivalent to Harken 52s) to
trim the headsail a few times. The bigger winched are noticeably easier.

 

Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to calcu

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!

Josh
On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
> has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
> mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
> pounds for my 135.
>
>
>
> The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
> (though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.
>
>
>
> You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get
> 32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be
> able to put 32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up.
> The bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s
> and use them for your spinnaker – for which they work well.
>
>
>
> I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
> winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
> grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out
> to the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long
> winch handle is still problematic.
>
>
>
> Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of
> “winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to
> upgrade the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a
> spot on one of those TV reality shows.
>
>
>
> Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
> exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
> pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50
> pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
> currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
> comfort and a mixed sex crew.
>
>
>
> BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:
>
>
>
> (Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X
> 6) /force = power ratio
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *rjcasciato
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Thanks Rick and Josh...
>
>
>
> To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the
> width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.
> The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...
>
>
>
> So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
> sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
> 80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
> process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
> well to her rating in PHRF.
>
> These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at
> least once by me
>
>
>
> We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.
>
>
>
> It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
>
>
>
> I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the
> lifelines, etc.
>
>
>
> I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..
>
> Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative
> to their pricing..
>
> Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make
> it
>
>
>
> Thanks again
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> 38ST’s? Those must be huge.
>
>
>
> I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi with Barient 32s
> (equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I’m in the process of
> upgrading to 32ST’s to make single handing easier.
>
>
>
> But even with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135
> headsail I now use is easier, but I can’t imagine that I would want
> anything sm

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36 has a 
power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I mentioned 
would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55 pounds for my 
135. 

 

The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey 
(though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.

 

You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get 32ST 
conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be able to put 
32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up. The bases on my 
32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s and use them for your 
spinnaker – for which they work well.

 

I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the 
winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the 
grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out to 
the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long winch 
handle is still problematic.

 

Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of 
“winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to upgrade 
the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a spot on one 
of those TV reality shows.

 

Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could exert a 
max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100 pulling up, and 
125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50 pound number). The 
information about selecting winches from the Harken site currently recommends 
keeping the force level around 35 for longer term comfort and a mixed sex crew.

 

BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:

 

(Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X 6) 
/force = power ratio

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of rjcasciato 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Thanks Rick and Josh...

 

To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the 
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.  The 
lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...

 

So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was 
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid 
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual process 
of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very well to her 
rating in PHRF.

These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at least 
once by me

 

We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.

 

It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.

 

I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the 
lifelines, etc.

 

I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..

Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative to 
their pricing..

Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make it

 

Thanks again 

Ron

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII 

 

38ST’s? Those must be huge.

 

I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi with Barient 32s (equivalent 
to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I’m in the process of upgrading to 
32ST’s to make single handing easier. 

 

But even with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135 
headsail I now use is easier, but I can’t imagine that I would want anything 
smaller unless I was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not 
going out in winds of 20 apparent or more. 

 

I’ve tried using the Barient 28 secondaries (equivalent to Harken 52s) to trim 
the headsail a few times. The bigger winched are noticeably easier.

 

Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to calculate the target power 
ratio of new winches. Based on a 400 sq. ft. headsail (100% on our boats) and a 
pull of 35 pounds on the winch handle, Harken 68’s are the right size for our 
boats. My 135 is 562 sq. ft., which means the load on the end of the winch 
handle can be as high as 60 pounds with my current winches. I’d definitely 
stick with the big winches.

 

So why are you r

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick and Josh...
To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the 
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.  The 
lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...
So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was 
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid 
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual process 
of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very well to her 
rating in PHRF.These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been 
rebuilt at least once by me
We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.
It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the 
lifelines, etc.
I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..Harken is the obvious 
choice, but I thought there might be an alternative to their pricing..Weight is 
also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make it
Thanks again Ron



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/26/16  12:18 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List New Subject.  Winch replacement for a C 38MKII 
38ST’s? Those must be huge. I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi 
with Barient 32s (equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I’m in 
the process of upgrading to 32ST’s to make single handing easier.  But even 
with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135 headsail I now 
use is easier, but I can’t imagine that I would want anything smaller unless I 
was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not going out in winds 
of 20 apparent or more.  I’ve tried using the Barient 28 secondaries 
(equivalent to Harken 52s) to trim the headsail a few times. The bigger winched 
are noticeably easier. Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to 
calculate the target power ratio of new winches. Based on a 400 sq. ft. 
headsail (100% on our boats) and a pull of 35 pounds on the winch handle, 
Harken 68’s are the right size for our boats. My 135 is 562 sq. ft., which 
means the load on the end of the winch handle can be as high as 60 pounds with 
my current winches. I’d definitely stick with the big winches. So why are you 
replacing your big winches? Are they worn out beyond redemption? Rick 
BrassImzadi  C 38 mk 2la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1Washington, NC  From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rjcasciato via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 10:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII Hoping 
there is some help and advice out there among the group. I’m going to replace 
my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.  Currently, I have a pair of 
Barient 38ST’s.  While I think it would be nice to try a 3 speed…….I’m sure 
that price is prohibitive. So given the size of the current winches.who has 
had some good experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, 
any recommendations. The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing………but like most 
of , the crew is aging gracefully………..and I’d like to keep it that way. Thanks 
for your input and insight. Ron C.ImpromptuC 38MKIIC…..’77___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I thought they looked pretty cool when Defender first started selling them. But 
my observation is that the big benefit of the 4 speeds is getting the sheet in 
quickly when you tack. The biggest power ratio available is 52 – which Defender 
sells for about the same price as a Lewmar EVO65ST. Didn’t look like a very 
good value for my boat and sailing style.

 

But then, if you get the line in fast enough, before the boat gets on the wind 
and the sail loads up, you might not need to grind the sail in under load and 
could get by with a smaller winch.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob 
McLaughlin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 11:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob McLaughlin <rmclaughli...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

The August issue of Practical Sailor has a review on winches. The new 4-speed 
winches from Pontos sound very interesting, up to 18:1 gear ratio, well more 
than twice any others.  

 

Bob McLaughlin

C 110 "Blue Devil"


On Aug 25, 2016, at 9:34 PM, Rjcasciato via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.

 

I’m going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.  
Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST’s.  While I think it would be nice to 
try a 3 speed…….I’m sure that price is prohibitive.

 

So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good experience 
with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any recommendations.

 

The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing………but like most of , the crew is 
aging gracefully………..and I’d like to keep it that way.

 

Thanks for your input and insight.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC…..’77

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Some of the winches in the PS article shifted speed automatically!  How
cool!  I get the 2 speed winches and I assumed 3 speed had a button or
clutch or something. When I heard 4 speed I thought, "Well now that's just
silly.". That was until they explained the auto function!  I can't justify
new winches but boy if I could...

Are you replacing because of a problem?  Many things on a winch can be
repaired and if not ebay regularly has all manner of winches for sale.  If
you're looking to make the work easier then you might just consider longer
handles.  They are cheap by comparison.  Changing so you can have
self-tailers?  Get the winch mates.  Changing because you feel like it?
Since there is no problem with what you have nothing will be cost
effective, go all out and get the 4 speed autos.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 25, 2016 11:09 PM, "Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The August issue of Practical Sailor has a review on winches. The new
> 4-speed winches from Pontos sound very interesting, up to 18:1 gear ratio,
> well more than twice any others.
>
> Bob McLaughlin
> C 110 "Blue Devil"
>
>
> On Aug 25, 2016, at 9:34 PM, Rjcasciato via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.
>
>
>
> I’m going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.
> Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST’s.  While I think it would be nice
> to try a 3 speed…….I’m sure that price is prohibitive.
>
>
>
> So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good
> experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any
> recommendations.
>
>
>
> The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing………but like most of , the crew
> is aging gracefully………..and I’d like to keep it that way.
>
>
>
> Thanks for your input and insight.
>
>
>
> Ron C.
>
> Impromptu
>
> C 38MKIIC…..’77
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

38ST's? Those must be huge.

 

I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi with Barient 32s
(equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I'm in the process of
upgrading to 32ST's to make single handing easier. 

 

But even with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135
headsail I now use is easier, but I can't imagine that I would want anything
smaller unless I was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not
going out in winds of 20 apparent or more. 

 

I've tried using the Barient 28 secondaries (equivalent to Harken 52s) to
trim the headsail a few times. The bigger winched are noticeably easier.

 

Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to calculate the target power
ratio of new winches. Based on a 400 sq. ft. headsail (100% on our boats)
and a pull of 35 pounds on the winch handle, Harken 68's are the right size
for our boats. My 135 is 562 sq. ft., which means the load on the end of the
winch handle can be as high as 60 pounds with my current winches. I'd
definitely stick with the big winches.

 

So why are you replacing your big winches? Are they worn out beyond
redemption?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Rjcasciato via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 10:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.

 

I'm going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.
Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST's.  While I think it would be nice
to try a 3 speed...I'm sure that price is prohibitive.

 

So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good
experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any
recommendations.

 

The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing...but like most of , the crew is
aging gracefully.and I'd like to keep it that way.

 

Thanks for your input and insight.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC...'77

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List]

The August issue of Practical Sailor has a review on winches. The new 4-speed 
winches from Pontos sound very interesting, up to 18:1 gear ratio, well more 
than twice any others.  

Bob McLaughlin
C 110 "Blue Devil"


> On Aug 25, 2016, at 9:34 PM, Rjcasciato via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.
>  
> I’m going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.  
> Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST’s.  While I think it would be nice 
> to try a 3 speed…….I’m sure that price is prohibitive.
>  
> So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good experience 
> with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any recommendations.
>  
> The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing………but like most of , the crew is 
> aging gracefully………..and I’d like to keep it that way.
>  
> Thanks for your input and insight.
>  
> Ron C.
> Impromptu
> C 38MKIIC…..’77
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.

 

I'm going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.
Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST's.  While I think it would be nice
to try a 3 speed...I'm sure that price is prohibitive.

 

So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good
experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any
recommendations.

 

The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing...but like most of , the crew is
aging gracefully.and I'd like to keep it that way.

 

Thanks for your input and insight.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC...'77

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dave,

not a specific solution to any of your problems, but if you are dealing with 
sanitation, Peggy Hall’s book (Get Rid of Boat Odors) is a very good read. It 
might be the best $25 you spend on your sanitation systems (A Kindle version is 
I think under $10).

Marek

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 09:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

HI Dave,

Not for nuthin' but, if you can hear the the vent, it is restricted and won't 
be letting much air in unless there is a vacuum like the one created by the 
pump. Mine was the same way when I bought my boat so I added a second and 
enlarged the first using 1-1/8 SS thru hull fittings and hose. was not that big 
a job. also the waste hose could be a big source of smells from the system. I 
replaced all those as well. no oder at all on our boat!

The larger vents and thru hull also allow me to flush the system at pumpout 
with fresh water running into the system through the vent opening and get the 
tank nice and clean.

Danny




On 8/14/2016 7:45 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List wrote:

  Thanks Paul, you've got me thinking
  I know the vent works because the guy who did the last pump out commented 
that he liked the location because he could hear the vent. So, it is admitting 
some air, but day in day out, not a lot because it can't circulate. 
  Any reason you can think of not to create a vented deck fill? Big boats have 
big vents... Same thing, I would think.
  This may not solve the stench-permeated tank issue, but it would air the tank.

  Dave.



  From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com>
  To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
  NOW Active holding tank vent
  Message-ID: <47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


  Dave,

  From what all the experts say, using quality hose and having proper 
ventilation are main keys. A real eye opener for me was finding 
  a bug nest clogged air vent line, so at the very least check or replace your 
vent line. To be honest, I cannot make any claims that adding the
  active ventilation fixed any problems as the system was be newly installed so 
there was no problem to fix. But at such a small
  cost ~$25, it was a no brainer to install a system which constantly pumps 
fresh air into the holding tank. I thought briefly about getting a 
  12V air pump, but if I were to make any changes it would be to plumb the 
galley sink drain to the head inlet so that when I leave the boat for an 
extended period, 
  the head inlet could easily be flush with fresh water. This eliminate salt 
water organisms from the inlet line which die off in 
  the line and decay, without oxygen, anaerobically. 


  -
  Paul E.
  1981 C 38 Landfall 
  S/V Johanna Rose
  Carrabelle, FL

  http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

  On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Message: 1
  Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 08:32:27 -0400
  From: Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com>
  To: "dre...@gmail.com" <dre...@gmail.com>, C Stus List
  <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
  NOW Active holding tank vent


  Paul ? great blog, lotsa detail. You have piqued my curiosity with your 
active holding tank vent project. I have a rather ?piquant? poly holding tank 
in my 33-2. I changed the in and out (but not the vent) hoses and still I get a 
stench, particularly when the adjoining lockers are opened. The tank itself was 
removed and repaired, and while out it could not be de-stinked by any means I 
attempted, bleach, etc. Maybe there?s a way to deal with that, dunno.
  Am considering replacing the tank, but would rather resolve the cause. (or do 
both, and make provision for better/active ventilation in the new tank)
  In your post below, you seem pretty pleased with the result, any other 
insights? Anything you would do differently?

  Dave


   

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

HI Dave,

Not for nuthin' but, if you can hear the the vent, it is restricted and 
won't be letting much air in unless there is a vacuum like the one 
created by the pump.  Mine was the same way when I bought my boat so I 
added a second and enlarged the first using 1-1/8 SS thru hull fittings 
and hose.  was not that big a job.  also the waste hose could be a big 
source of smells from the system.  I replaced all those as well.  no 
oder at all on our boat!


The larger vents and thru hull also allow me to flush the system at 
pumpout with fresh water running into the system through the vent 
opening and get the tank nice and clean.


Danny


On 8/14/2016 7:45 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks Paul, you've  got me thinking
I know the vent works because the guy who did the last pump out 
commented that he liked the location because he could hear the vent.   
So, it is admitting some air, but day in day out, not a lot because it 
can't circulate.
Any reason you can think of not to create a vented deck fill?  Big 
boats have big vents...  Same thing, I would  think.
This may not solve the stench-permeated tank issue, but it would air 
the tank.


Dave.


From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com <mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOWActive holding tank vent
Message-ID: <47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com 
<mailto:47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com>>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


Dave,

From what all the experts say, using quality hose and having proper 
ventilation are main keys.   A real eye opener for me was finding
a bug nest clogged air vent line, so at the very least check or 
replace your vent line.   To be honest, I cannot make any claims that 
adding the
active ventilation fixed any problems as the system was be newly 
installed so there was no problem to fix.  But at such a small
cost ~$25, it was a no brainer to install a system which constantly 
 pumps fresh air into the holding tank.   I thought briefly about 
getting a
12V air pump, but  if I were to make any changes it would be to plumb 
the galley sink drain to the head inlet so that when I leave the boat 
for an extended period,
the head inlet could easily be flush with fresh water.   This 
eliminate salt water organisms from the inlet line which die off in

the line and decay, without oxygen, anaerobically.


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 08:32:27 -0400
From: Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com <mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
To: "dre...@gmail.com <mailto:dre...@gmail.com>" <dre...@gmail.com 
<mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>,  C Stus List

   <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOW Active holding tank vent


Paul ? great blog, lotsa detail.   You have piqued my curiosity with 
your active holding tank vent project.   I have a rather ?piquant? 
poly holding tank in my 33-2.  I changed the in and out (but not the 
vent) hoses  and still I get a stench, particularly when the adjoining 
lockers are opened.   The tank itself was removed and repaired, and 
while out it could not be de-stinked by any means I attempted, bleach, 
etc.  Maybe there?s a way to deal with that, dunno.
Am considering replacing the tank, but would rather resolve the cause. 
(or do both, and make provision for better/active ventilation in the 
new tank)
In your post below, you seem pretty pleased with the result, any other 
insights?  Anything you would do differently?


Dave



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Gary,
 I have a Flex-o-Fold also, and if I don't "lock" it, it will continue
to spin.  I use reverse.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 3:26 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used to have a Martec. I always moved the shaft to the horizontal prop
> position to assure the blades both folded, or one could end up with a
> ‘hanging blade’ and you know how much that means!
>
>
>
> Now I have a Flex with gears – it folds in any position, and I doubt that
> it must be stopped, as the forward motion of the boat will push the blades
> backward, causing them to fold as long as the shaft is not being powered.
> I’m sure stopping it would help a lot. I have been leaving my Yanmar in
> forward for 22 years with no problems (knock on wood).
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ALAN
> BERGEN via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 8, 2016 2:49 PM
> *To:* cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>
>
>
> For a folding prop, you do have to stop the shaft in order for it to
> fold.  You also have to center it (blades in the horizontal position) for
> both of them to fold.  With feathering props, you shift into reverse, the
> shaft turns and the prop feathers.
>
> Alan Bergen
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
> again.
>
> A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
> assumptions being make in that statement.
> *Fixed blade prop
> *No shaft driven generator/alternator.
>
> The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
> with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
> compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
> was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
> failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
> allowed to spin.
>
> As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft
> in order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you
> may have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse
> ensures that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.
> Pretty unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when
> starting... Oops!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
> >sailing?
> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
> is drag.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Kaylarah
> >> '90 C 37+
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of ou

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Thank you Josh.  That makes sense.
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 2:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
> again.
>
> A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
> assumptions being make in that statement.
> *Fixed blade prop
> *No shaft driven generator/alternator.
>
> The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
> with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
> compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
> was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
> failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
> allowed to spin.
>
> As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft
> in order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you
> may have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse
> ensures that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.
> Pretty unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when
> starting... Oops!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
>> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
>> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
>> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 6
>> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
>> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
>> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>> >sailing?
>> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
>> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
>> >
>> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
>> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
>> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
>> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
>> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
>> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
>> is drag.
>> >>
>> >> Gary
>> >> S/V Kaylarah
>> >> '90 C 37+
>> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Tom,

I put mine in reverse to stop the prop, then position the shaft so the
blades are folded.  Then I put it back into reverse to lock them in place.
It's easy, especially if you mark the shaft position when the boat is out of
the water.

Jake


Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 09:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to the
mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop folks
suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades into a
neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I used to have a Martec. I always moved the shaft to the horizontal prop 
position to assure the blades both folded, or one could end up with a ‘hanging 
blade’ and you know how much that means!

 

Now I have a Flex with gears – it folds in any position, and I doubt that it 
must be stopped, as the forward motion of the boat will push the blades 
backward, causing them to fold as long as the shaft is not being powered. I’m 
sure stopping it would help a lot. I have been leaving my Yanmar in forward for 
22 years with no problems (knock on wood).

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 2:49 PM
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

For a folding prop, you do have to stop the shaft in order for it to fold.  You 
also have to center it (blades in the horizontal position) for both of them to 
fold.  With feathering props, you shift into reverse, the shaft turns and the 
prop feathers.

Alan Bergen

 

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Gary,

I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there again. 
 

A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few 
assumptions being make in that statement.  
*Fixed blade prop
*No shaft driven generator/alternator.

The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier with 
4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less compensation 
than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft was to do 
maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal failure.  The 
emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was allowed to spin.

As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft in 
order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you may have 
to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse ensures that the 
prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.  Pretty unlikely.  I 
occasionally forget to shift into neutral when starting... Oops!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to the 
mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop folks 
suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades into a 
neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200  


> On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>  wrote:
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com <mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
> To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>sailing?
> Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com 
> <mailto:cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged if 
> left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
>
>> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
>>
>>
>> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my Hurth 
>> transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in forward, I 
>> would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.  Some 
>> transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there is no 
>> lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want to make 
>> sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course, is drag.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

For a folding prop, you do have to stop the shaft in order for it to fold.
You also have to center it (blades in the horizontal position) for both of
them to fold.  With feathering props, you shift into reverse, the shaft
turns and the prop feathers.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
> again.
>
> A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
> assumptions being make in that statement.
> *Fixed blade prop
> *No shaft driven generator/alternator.
>
> The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
> with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
> compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
> was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
> failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
> allowed to spin.
>
> As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft
> in order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you
> may have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse
> ensures that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.
> Pretty unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when
> starting... Oops!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
>> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
>> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
>> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 6
>> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
>> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
>> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>> >sailing?
>> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
>> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
>> >
>> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
>> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
>> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
>> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
>> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
>> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
>> is drag.
>> >>
>> >> Gary
>> >> S/V Kaylarah
>> >> '90 C 37+
>> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Gary,

I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
again.

A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
assumptions being make in that statement.
*Fixed blade prop
*No shaft driven generator/alternator.

The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
allowed to spin.

As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft in
order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you may
have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse ensures
that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.  Pretty
unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when starting...
Oops!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
> >sailing?
> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
> is drag.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Kaylarah
> >> '90 C 37+
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Kanzaki recommends neutral for a fixed prop, neutral or reverse for a
fixed/folding prop.  If you have a folding/feathering prop, shifting into
reverse for a few seconds causes the prop to fold or feather.

Joel

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 9:47 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
> >sailing?
> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
> is drag.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Kaylarah
> >> '90 C 37+
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Scott Wells via CnC-List]

Will do thanks!

On Saturday, May 7, 2016, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Scott
>
> Go to YouTube and search C 35rigging. The first video shows the setup of
> The Office.
>
> Joel
>
> On Friday, May 6, 2016, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> Scott,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have 15 years of experience with the 35-3 and my boat is in Hampton
>> VA.  I have done many modifications and upgrades.  I would be glad to share
>> pictures and experiences.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joel, although not a C owner for much longer, has plenty of advice and
>> experience to.  There are a couple of other 35-3’s on the bay too.
>>
>>
>>
>> When you have a question, give the list a shout and I’m sure you’ll get
>> some opinions, comments, snide remarks, and maybe some good advice!  We’re
>> a happy clan of C owners.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Scott
>> Wells via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, May 6, 2016 17:28
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Scott Wells 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List (no subject)
>>
>>
>>
>> Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a
>> salvage project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to
>> communicate with. More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask
>> questions because In the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is
>> typical and what has been altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race
>> boat.
>>
>> --
>> Captain Scott Wells
>> Sundance Marine Services LLC
>> 443 877 5830
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>


-- 
Captain Scott Wells
Sundance Marine Services LLC
443 877 5830
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Scott

Go to YouTube and search C 35rigging. The first video shows the setup of
The Office.

Joel

On Friday, May 6, 2016, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Scott,
>
>
>
> I have 15 years of experience with the 35-3 and my boat is in Hampton VA.
> I have done many modifications and upgrades.  I would be glad to share
> pictures and experiences.
>
>
>
> Joel, although not a C owner for much longer, has plenty of advice and
> experience to.  There are a couple of other 35-3’s on the bay too.
>
>
>
> When you have a question, give the list a shout and I’m sure you’ll get
> some opinions, comments, snide remarks, and maybe some good advice!  We’re
> a happy clan of C owners.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On
> Behalf Of *Scott Wells via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, May 6, 2016 17:28
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> *Cc:* Scott Wells  >
> *Subject:* Stus-List (no subject)
>
>
>
> Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a
> salvage project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to
> communicate with. More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask
> questions because In the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is
> typical and what has been altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race
> boat.
>
> --
> Captain Scott Wells
> Sundance Marine Services LLC
> 443 877 5830
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Scott,

 

I have 15 years of experience with the 35-3 and my boat is in Hampton VA.  I 
have done many modifications and upgrades.  I would be glad to share pictures 
and experiences.

 

Joel, although not a C owner for much longer, has plenty of advice and 
experience to.  There are a couple of other 35-3’s on the bay too.  

 

When you have a question, give the list a shout and I’m sure you’ll get some 
opinions, comments, snide remarks, and maybe some good advice!  We’re a happy 
clan of C owners.

 

Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Scott Wells 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2016 17:28
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Scott Wells 
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a salvage 
project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to communicate with. 
More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask questions because In 
the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is typical and what has been 
altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race boat. 

-- 
Captain Scott Wells
Sundance Marine Services LLC
443 877 5830

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Lorne,

I had this problem on my 35 too.

In the morning I found that the Seal was gone (Black Seal, used too 
much of it in the Dark n Stormies).


:)

Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:42 PM 26/04/2016, you wrote:


Tr
___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Francois, 

How did you make the holes in the pedestal and the SS guard? Did you use a 
fitting to make it watertight? Got any pictures? 

Chuck 

- Original Message -

From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard"  
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 10:23:26 PM 
Subject: Stus-List (no subject) 



Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself. 



You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the compass 
binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod. 



-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Ga 



Sent from my iPad 



> On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: 
> 
> Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard 
> Wiring 


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

>From PO I have some through binnacle and GPS zip tied to outside tubing and
through small waterproof deck fitting. At first I just thought it was lazy
to go to deck fitting, but it is much more serviceable and accessible fwiw.

Kevin
89 30-2 Osprey

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016, 7:24 PM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself.
>
> You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the
> compass binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Ga
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard
> > Wiring
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

The current complement is 2 X G27 and 1 X G22NF (smaller than G24). It seems 
like there should be room replace the 22NF with a 24 but we'll see. I will take 
and post a photo next time I'm on the boat.
Cheers,Doug 

On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 5:20 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 
Hi Doug - went through this think myself, I had the std 33-2 setup of 2 group 
31 (I think...  Could be 34). Deep cycle flooded batteries (batt 1 and 2) and 
an added xantrex smart charger.  Got some advice from a backup power 
designer
Will parallel the existing batteries and add a u1 start battery, switched with 
a blue seas selector/ combiner, (in a panel with 24/7 breakers and no more 
kick-off toggle) an vsr, all monitored by Victron energy bmv-70, which fits the 
stock 2" hole.  Decided against a smart regulator as offering little benefit.  
Fitting that 3rd battery is a trick, would live to know how it was fine in 
yours.
Dave
The stock alternator is fine 




n Sunday, February 28, 2016 9:41 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
 wrote:




 We have two T12 136ah  ( slightly larger and heavier than a group 27 ) Rolls 
house batteries which are now in their 12th year of service.  I was thinking 
they were near their end of life but a battery equalization last year seems to 
have given them a new lease on life. We replaced a Rolls starting battery after 
11 years. 
 Ed
 1982 LF38
 On Feb 27, 2016 1:20 PM, "Doug Welch via CnC-List"  
wrote:

   Our new (to us) 33-2 has a couple of Surette Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries 
of indeterminate age in plastic battery boxes with no lid and a Canadian Tire 
22NF starting Battery (In what looks like a home made wooden battery box). 

   My first instinct is to replace the deep cycles with Interstates and upgrade 
the 22NF to a Group 25 Marine Starter Battery in proper battery boxes (I have 
seen first hand how quickly a dropped wrench landing on exposed 12v battery 
terminals can go very bad).

   The charger is a relatively new looking Professional Mariner ProSport 20 
Heavy-Duty Marine Battery Charger. Both banks are monitored by a cruising 
equipment company e-meter.

   My questions are 
   1. Does anyone have 2 G27s and a G25? Is there room?
   2. Someone told me the Surette are very good batteries with longer than 
average life and I shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them. Experience ? 
Thoughts?
   3. Anything else from your experience I should be thinking about?

   Cheers,
   Doug 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Chuck
For my two bits, Sterling Hayden wrote some damn fine books.  They lit me up!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA (damn it’s cold)

> On Dec 31, 2015, at 12:58 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Whynott - a new one for the list- thanks.   wanderer is great, re read many 
> times.  Sterling Hayden was an intriguing guy, lived through interesting 
> times.  Voyage is very good too.  
> Dave
> 
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:59:18 -0500
> From: "Chuck Gilchrest" <csgilchr...@comcast.net 
> <mailto:csgilchr...@comcast.net>>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> Message-ID: <002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net 
> <mailto:002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net>>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
> 
> All,
> One of my favorite reads that involves sailing and boat building is Douglass
> Whynott's "A Unit of Water, A Unit of Time", which is a non-fiction account
> of the last boat built by Joel White at Brooklin Boatyard in Maine (the son
> of writer EB White as well as being a prolific naval architect).  The book
> is a quiet book, best enjoyed in front of a fireplace with a few Benjamin
> Mendlowitz calendars and coffee table books available for reference photos
> of the various boats mentioned in the text.  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1975 25 mk 1
> S/V Orion
> 1983 35 Landfall 
> Padanaram, MA 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Martin
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 2:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com <mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> 
> Andrew,
> 
> If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel
> "Voyage". IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in
> Boston harbor.  In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around
> the horn to San Francisco.
> 
> For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on
> offshore passages and never got tired of re-reading them.
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
> 
> -Original Message-----
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> 
> Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett 
> Newport, RI 
> USA    02840 
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> <http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/>
> +401 965-5260 <tel:+401%20965-5260>
> 
>> On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> wrote:
>> 
>> Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
>> In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.
> 
> 
> ___
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Currently reading Dewey Lambdin. Not the easiest to read but his books are 
rapidly climbing to the top of favorites list. I also enjoy anything written by 
James L. Nelson. And there are always the traditional picks of C. S. Forester, 
Alexander Kent, and Patrick O’Brian. For a change of pace, I like Randy Wayne 
White’s “ Doc Ford” series and for a light quick read I go to original Clive 
Cussler books. Oh, and I shouldn’t leave out the Dudley Pope “Ramage” series!
James Taylor
“Delaney”
C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC

From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2016 10:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Chuck 
For my two bits, Sterling Hayden wrote some damn fine books.  They lit me up!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA (damn it’s cold)

  On Dec 31, 2015, at 12:58 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Whynott - a new one for the list- thanks.   wanderer is great, re read many 
times.  Sterling Hayden was an intriguing guy, lived through interesting times. 
 Voyage is very good too.  
  Dave


  Message: 12
  Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:59:18 -0500
  From: "Chuck Gilchrest" <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
  To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
  Message-ID: <002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net>
  Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

  All,
  One of my favorite reads that involves sailing and boat building is Douglass
  Whynott's "A Unit of Water, A Unit of Time", which is a non-fiction account
  of the last boat built by Joel White at Brooklin Boatyard in Maine (the son
  of writer EB White as well as being a prolific naval architect).  The book
  is a quiet book, best enjoyed in front of a fireplace with a few Benjamin
  Mendlowitz calendars and coffee table books available for reference photos
  of the various boats mentioned in the text.  
  Chuck Gilchrest
  Half Magic
  1975 25 mk 1
  S/V Orion
  1983 35 Landfall
  Padanaram, MA

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
  DeYoung via CnC-List
  Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 2:29 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

  Andrew,

  If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel
  "Voyage". IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in
  Boston harbor.  In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around
  the horn to San Francisco.

  For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on
  offshore passages and never got tired of re-reading them.

  Martin DeYoung
  Calypso
  1971 C 43
  Seattle

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
  Burton via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Andrew Burton
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

  Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!

  Andrew Burton
  61 W Narragansett
  Newport, RI
  USA02840

  http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
  +401 965-5260


On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:



Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.

In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.


  ___
  Sent from my iPhone
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of page at:
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Re: Stus-List New Subject 84 35 Mk3

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jon,

 

You’ve picked a good model.  There is a lot of experience on this list that you 
can draw from. A lot of us have been there before and have the scars to prove 
it.  Don’t be afraid to ask questions.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 11:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JP Mail <jon.peterpr...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows - welcome

 

Me too. She's an '84 35mk3. Though not perfect, appears to be very well cared 
for and well outfitted. Has new port lights, recent rod rigging, fuel tank and 
rebuild of 3gm. Interesting thing about window refit is a ss frame around them. 
Haven't seen that in my research before. Things I need peace of mind with is 
hull integrity and hull/deck joint. There is also a bead of silicone along toe 
rail. This raises an eyebrow.  I know a 30 year old boat will have issues but 
there are issues I can deal with and others I don't have the time or energy to 
deal with.  I've done the soda blast and hull surface restore before and can do 
it again, but I don't want to face recoring. After a year search I'm settled on 
a C though. Hence joining the list.  I think the 35 mk 3 hits all the buttons 
for me. 
Jon.
Sent from my iPhone 

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Re: Stus-List The subject line police are on the job!

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm with Chuck. Information is only useful if people can find it. Good luck
searching the archives for that discussion. Subject lines *are* important.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You tell em!
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Oct 30, 2015, at 6:33 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 01:04:22 + (UTC)
> > From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> > To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com>, Ron Ricci <rvri...@gmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
> > Message-ID:
> ><796088000.5658329.1446167062569.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Hi Danny,
> >
> > It's nice that so many C listers responded to your request to find a
> winter haulout marina for your Tartan.
> > Can you please change the subject line to something other than "boom
> furling complications" ? That's misleading.
> >
> > May I suggest: "Reconmmended marinas for haulout and winter storage in
> Mass and RI area" ?
> >
> >
> > Chuck
> > Resolute
> > 1990 C 34R
> > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

As previously mentioned, check the mast step, most of them have sunk a bit. 
There is balsa coring in the hull in some forward panels, however, no issues 
with my boat. It's a great racer/cruiser, fast and fun to sail.

Mike Amirault
C 33II  "Lovely Cruise"
SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Curtis via CnC-List]

So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a
DIY project? should I try to make my own?
Help$$$


*Solid Teak Handrails:*

   - *Qty (2) - 9-Loop*
  - *12 Centers*
  - *112 overall length*
  - *1 Thick*
  - *2-1/2 High*
  - *4 Pad Bases*
   - *Qty (2) - 6-Loop*
  - *12 Centers*
  - *76 overall length*
  - *1 Thick*
  - *2-1/2 High*
  - *4 Pad Bases*
   - *Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish
   coats by others.*

*Pricing:*



*(2) 9-Loop  (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - -
$1,070.00*



*Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - $55.00*



*Packaging  Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $
237.00*



*Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -$1,362.00*



*Note:*



*The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this
proposal. *



*Delivery:*



*Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order
entry.*



*Payment:*

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain p...@seasource.ca wrote:

  Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts,
 his dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed CC  Ran the
 custom shop. They look great on the boat!

 Sent from my iPad

 On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

   I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand
 rails on my CC30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the
 boat 2012. I refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old
 girl well. I have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any
 owners have found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your
 time. Capt Curt.
 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Stainless was $200 a rail and no maintenance for life!
On Feb 22, 2015 4:48 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a
 DIY project? should I try to make my own?
 Help$$$


 *Solid Teak Handrails:*

- *Qty (2) - 9-Loop*
   - *12 Centers*
   - *112 overall length*
   - *1 Thick*
   - *2-1/2 High*
   - *4 Pad Bases*
- *Qty (2) - 6-Loop*
   - *12 Centers*
   - *76 overall length*
   - *1 Thick*
   - *2-1/2 High*
   - *4 Pad Bases*
- *Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of
finish coats by others.*

 *Pricing:*



 *(2) 9-Loop  (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - -
 $1,070.00*



 *Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 - - - - - - - $55.00*



 *Packaging  Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $
 237.00*



 *Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 - - - -$1,362.00*



 *Note:*



 *The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this
 proposal. *



 *Delivery:*



 *Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order
 entry.*



 *Payment:*

 On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain p...@seasource.ca wrote:

  Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts,
 his dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed CC  Ran the
 custom shop. They look great on the boat!

 Sent from my iPad

 On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

   I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand
 rails on my CC30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the
 boat 2012. I refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old
 girl well. I have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any
 owners have found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your
 time. Capt Curt.
 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
 you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
 away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
 Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



 *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .




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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Antoine Rose via CnC-List]

Easy DIY
Teak is not the only choice. Iroko is an adequate substitute. The original were 
made of mahogany. You can even use recycled pvc planks made for backyard decks 
(not the prettiest, but say adios to varnishing)

DIY, you need a ten feet planks of something, a hole saw (ideally on a 
press-drill) and a router to do the rounding.

Antoine

Le 2015-02-22 à 16:48, Curtis via CnC-List a écrit :

 So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a 
 DIY project? should I try to make my own?
 Help$$$
 
 
 Solid Teak Handrails:
 Qty (2) – 9-Loop
 12” Centers
 112” overall length
 1” Thick
 2-1/2” High
 4” Pad Bases
 Qty (2) – 6-Loop
 12” Centers
 76” overall length
 1” Thick
 2-1/2” High
 4” Pad Bases
 Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish coats 
 by others.
 Pricing:
  
 (2) 9-Loop  (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - - $1,070.00
  
 Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
 - - - - - $55.00
  
 Packaging  Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $   
 237.00
  
 Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
 - -$1,362.00
  
 Note:
  
 The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this 
 proposal. 
  
 Delivery:
  
 Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order 
 entry.
  
 Payment:
 
 On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain p...@seasource.ca wrote:
 Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts, his dad 
 was one of the original 3 builders that formed CC  Ran the custom shop. 
 They look great on the boat!
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand rails on my 
 CC30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the boat 2012. I 
 refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old girl well. I have 
 checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any owners have found 
 the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your time. Capt Curt.
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 ___
 
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 of page at:
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[wwadjourn]

Ouch. Made some for  a buddy this past fall.  Teak cost $126.  Took me about 4 
hours.  Pictures if you email me direct.  I could walk you through it.
Not difficult with table saw, router or shaper table, spindle Sanders or drum 
on a drill, hole saw jig or band saw.  
Bill Walker
wwadjo...@aol.com. 

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Paul Fountain p...@seasource.ca
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)
Date: Sun, Feb 22, 2015 4:48 PM

So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a
DIY project? should I try to make my own?
Help$$$


*Solid Teak Handrails:*

- *Qty (2) - 9-Loop*
- *12 Centers*
- *112 overall length*
- *1 Thick*
- *2-1/2 High*
- *4 Pad Bases*
- *Qty (2) - 6-Loop*
- *12 Centers*
- *76 overall length*
- *1 Thick*
- *2-1/2 High*
- *4 Pad Bases*
- *Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish
coats by others.*

*Pricing:*



*(2) 9-Loop  (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - -
$1,070.00*



*Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - $55.00*



*Packaging  Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $
237.00*



*Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -$1,362.00*



*Note:*



*The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this
proposal. *



*Delivery:*



*Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order
entry.*



*Payment:*

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain p...@seasource.ca wrote:

  Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts,
 his dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed CC  Ran the
 custom shop. They look great on the boat!

 Sent from my iPad

 On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

   I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand
 rails on my CC30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the
 boat 2012. I refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old
 girl well. I have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any
 owners have found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your
 time. Capt Curt.
 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


* __/) *

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Curtis,

They really aren't hard to make. Just need to get some full 4/4ths teak.  Mark 
out the loops.  Use a hole saw of a radius that matches the curve if the loops 
and drill holes.  The you connect the holes with a jig saw. Next use a router 
to round the oval holes. Finally cut the thing in half lengthwise and sand it. 
Done. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 22, 2015, at 3:48 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a 
 DIY project? should I try to make my own?
 Help$$$
 
 
 Solid Teak Handrails:
 Qty (2) – 9-Loop
 12” Centers
 112” overall length
 1” Thick
 2-1/2” High
 4” Pad Bases
 Qty (2) – 6-Loop
 12” Centers
 76” overall length
 1” Thick
 2-1/2” High
 4” Pad Bases
 Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish coats 
 by others.
 Pricing:
  
 (2) 9-Loop  (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - - $1,070.00
  
 Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
 - - - - - $55.00
  
 Packaging  Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $   
 237.00
  
 Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
 - -$1,362.00
  
 Note:
  
 The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this 
 proposal. 
  
 Delivery:
  
 Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order 
 entry.
  
 Payment:
 
 On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain p...@seasource.ca wrote:
 Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts, his 
 dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed CC  Ran the custom 
 shop. They look great on the boat!
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand rails on 
 my CC30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the boat 2012. I 
 refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old girl well. I 
 have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any owners have 
 found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your time. Capt 
 Curt.
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 ___
 
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 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Are the set-screws doubled up?  Maybe that's the problem.  I discoverd that
the hard way on my shaft seal.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 24, 2015 8:41 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Spencer,



 The cap on the rudder should unscrew very easily.  Mine spins easily once
 the set screws are removed.  It shouldn't need a wrench at all.  If you
 haven't lifted the rudder slightly to take the pressure off the donut, that
 could be the cause.



 Jake



 *Jake Brodersen*

 *Midnight Mistress*

 *CC 35 Mk-III*

 *Hampton VA*







 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Spencer
 Johnson via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Friday, January 23, 2015 11:42 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)





 Hi DavidI have a 1984 LF38 that should be close to yours...we are now 
 dropping the rudder every winter to prevent freezup.  My wite and I can get 
 it down ok, but it takes a bit of help from other sailors to get it back in.  
 I have 2 set screws in the cap on the rudder shaft that need to be loosened.  
 I end up using a pipe wrench to unscrew/screw the cap.  To minimize damage to 
 the cap nut I wrap it with Gorilla Tape.  I have heard of exhaust hose being 
 used...if you can get a good grip.  Tried the flexible wrenches like for an 
 oil filterno dice...takes much more force.  I wish there was a way to 
 make it easier...10 minutes with a big pipe wrench and she is off!   I drop 
 it onto a sawhorse with blocks.  I also make a bit of a netting with rope 
 around the bottom of the rudder and tied over the top...kinda like wrapping a 
 package with ribbon...but it makes it much easier to grab the rudder as we 
 ease it down.  Once down, and wangeled onto a two wheeler, I can put the 
 shaft on my shoulder and move it around to the car pretty easily.  One more 
 thought.I clean the shaft with a drill, 2-3 18 extensions, and a fine 
 scotchbrite like (red) buffing wheel soaked in kerosene to get all of the old 
 lube out.

 Hope that helpsGood Luck!

 Spencer Johnson

 1984 LF38 #165 Alegria

 Racine, WI in the summer

 Waukegan, IL in the Winter


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Spencer,

 

The cap on the rudder should unscrew very easily.  Mine spins easily once
the set screws are removed.  It shouldn't need a wrench at all.  If you
haven't lifted the rudder slightly to take the pressure off the donut, that
could be the cause.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

Midnight Mistress

CC 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Spencer
Johnson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 11:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

 

Hi DavidI have a 1984 LF38 that should be close to yours...we are now
dropping the rudder every winter to prevent freezup.  My wite and I can get
it down ok, but it takes a bit of help from other sailors to get it back in.
I have 2 set screws in the cap on the rudder shaft that need to be loosened.
I end up using a pipe wrench to unscrew/screw the cap.  To minimize damage
to the cap nut I wrap it with Gorilla Tape.  I have heard of exhaust hose
being used...if you can get a good grip.  Tried the flexible wrenches like
for an oil filterno dice...takes much more force.  I wish there was a
way to make it easier...10 minutes with a big pipe wrench and she is off!
I drop it onto a sawhorse with blocks.  I also make a bit of a netting with
rope around the bottom of the rudder and tied over the top...kinda like
wrapping a package with ribbon...but it makes it much easier to grab the
rudder as we ease it down.  Once down, and wangeled onto a two wheeler, I
can put the shaft on my shoulder and move it around to the car pretty
easily.  One more thought.I clean the shaft with a drill, 2-3 18
extensions, and a fine scotchbrite like (red) buffing wheel soaked in
kerosene to get all of the old lube out.
Hope that helpsGood Luck!
Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 #165 Alegria
Racine, WI in the summer
Waukegan, IL in the Winter

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi DavidI have a 1984 LF38 that should be close to yours...we are now 
dropping the rudder every winter to prevent freezup.  My wite and I can get it 
down ok, but it takes a bit of help from other sailors to get it back in.  I 
have 2 set screws in the cap on the rudder shaft that need to be loosened.  I 
end up using a pipe wrench to unscrew/screw the cap.  To minimize damage to the 
cap nut I wrap it with Gorilla Tape.  I have heard of exhaust hose being 
used...if you can get a good grip.  Tried the flexible wrenches like for an oil 
filterno dice...takes much more force.  I wish there was a way to make it 
easier...10 minutes with a big pipe wrench and she is off!   I drop it onto a 
sawhorse with blocks.  I also make a bit of a netting with rope around the 
bottom of the rudder and tied over the top...kinda like wrapping a package with 
ribbon...but it makes it much easier to grab the rudder as we ease it down.  
Once down, and wangeled onto a two wheeler, I can put the shaft on my shoulder 
and move it around to the car pretty easily.  One more thought.I clean the 
shaft with a drill, 2-3 18 extensions, and a fine scotchbrite like (red) 
buffing wheel soaked in kerosene to get all of the old lube out.
Hope that helpsGood Luck!
Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 #165 Alegria
Racine, WI in the summer
Waukegan, IL in the Winter

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Della Barba, Joe]

My keel bolts all had steel backing plates that were rusting to pieces. I 
replaced them with stainless steel. Not a hard job out of the water if you have 
a B-A-S (big..socket)

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
CC 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of andrew 
rothweiler
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 1:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

Hello all,
Just returned from the trip to look at a CC 35-2.  I only saw two things that 
concerned me (I'm no expert of course and I'd have a thorough survey),  and I'm 
writing too ask people's opinions on these two issues.
First, at the keel to hull joint, directly under the mast, there was water 
weeping through the joint onto both sides of the keel.  Also, if not mistaken, 
I believe that the forward keel bolt, which is under the mast and can't be seen 
unless the mast is removed, is in this location on a vertical plane.  Is this 
weeping at the hull/keel joint a serious concern? (i.e. is it enough not to 
waste money on a survey?) Is it likely that there is water running from the 
bilge or through the mast, past the keel bolt under the mast (hence a 
potentially comprised/rusty keel bolt under the mast?) and coming out through 
the joint?  1) the owner has had the boat shrink wrapped and on the hard for 
the last three years, and told me that winds this winter have blown the shrink 
wrap off the boat, and this spring is the first time the weeping has occurred. 
2)  The entire hull keel joint looked to me to be very good or excellent, no 
smile visible, and the bottom looked pretty smooth with a near perfect coat of 
fresh bottom paint.
Second,  the washer on the center (lowest in the bilge?) keel bolt was 
extremely rusty. The other visible keel bolts and washers looked very good. I 
don't remember if the center keel bolt itself was rusty. Also,  the gelcoat 
surface of the bottom of the keel was spider cracked pretty thoroughly, I 
thought at the time that this was superficial and cosmetic. Are the rusty keel 
bolt washer and the spider cracked surface of the bilge potential areas of 
concern?
Thank you in advance for any guidance here.

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[dwight]

Andrew

 

I replaced all the washers on the keel bolts on Alianna with 3/8 stainless
plate.  The keel bolts may need to be torqued, including the one under the
mast.   Before torquing the bolts, depending on how serious the leak is,
(like is the bilge filled with water now or if it were full then how bad
would the leak be) you may be able to grind into the joint on either side
back aft as far as you have to and force some compound into the joint after
you clean it out.  I did that on my 35 MKII and I filled the cavity I
created at the joint with 3M 5200.  That will prevent leaking from the
outside into the boat after launch and when you torque the keel bolts and
replace the washers with something more substantial or use at least 2
washers per bolt you can also put compound (4200 0r 5200) around the bolts
where they come up through the hull…I used a lot so that it squished out all
around as I torqued the nuts.  That was 8 years ago and no problems.  Torque
Specs are on the cnc site.  You will need a ¾ in drive and some large (I
think 11/4 and 11/2) deep sockets and about a 1-2 foot long extension on the
drive and a force multiplier on the socket handle…I used a 4 foot long
section of steel pipe…don’t jerk the socket, just steady pull and when you
use the pipe extension you only have enough room for one click on the
ratchet at a time

 

I would expect the keel bolts to be fine and the nuts too…I would definitely
try that before doing a total removal and re-bedding of the keel…On the
outside, after the 5200 cures a bit you can fair with car body filler or you
can epoxy over the entire joint with glass reinforced epoxy and then fair.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of andrew
rothweiler
Sent: April 24, 2014 2:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Hello all,

Just returned from the trip to look at a CC 35-2.  I only saw two things
that concerned me (I'm no expert of course and I'd have a thorough survey),
and I'm writing too ask people's opinions on these two issues.

First, at the keel to hull joint, directly under the mast, there was water
weeping through the joint onto both sides of the keel.  Also, if not
mistaken, I believe that the forward keel bolt, which is under the mast and
can't be seen unless the mast is removed, is in this location on a vertical
plane.  Is this weeping at the hull/keel joint a serious concern? (i.e. is
it enough not to waste money on a survey?) Is it likely that there is water
running from the bilge or through the mast, past the keel bolt under the
mast (hence a potentially comprised/rusty keel bolt under the mast?) and
coming out through the joint?  1) the owner has had the boat shrink wrapped
and on the hard for the last three years, and told me that winds this winter
have blown the shrink wrap off the boat, and this spring is the first time
the weeping has occurred. 2)  The entire hull keel joint looked to me to be
very good or excellent, no smile visible, and the bottom looked pretty
smooth with a near perfect coat of fresh bottom paint.

Second,  the washer on the center (lowest in the bilge?) keel bolt was
extremely rusty. The other visible keel bolts and washers looked very good.
I don't remember if the center keel bolt itself was rusty. Also,  the
gelcoat surface of the bottom of the keel was spider cracked pretty
thoroughly, I thought at the time that this was superficial and cosmetic.
Are the rusty keel bolt washer and the spider cracked surface of the bilge
potential areas of concern?

Thank you in advance for any guidance here.

 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Lee Youngblood]

Hi Andrew,

You should always expect water in the forward part of the bilge, it 
comes down the mast.  All the openings and lines will feed water 
down.  The forward part of my bilge was partitioned off with a 
separate pump, which I didn't know about, till it made a wicked 
racket at 4am of course.  The pump doesn't get it all, so I vacuum it 
out occasionally.  Clean it out and see if it's rain water or salt 
water.


If you don't have a smile, than I wouldn't worry much about the keel.

Sail the boat, Lee
Simplicity 1974 35-II
Seattle


--
Lee Youngblood   l...@1gigharbor.com   (425) 444-9109

Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Re: Stus-List New Subject

[Russ Melody]

Hi Steve,
When I got my boat she didn't have a pulpit. The lifelines terminated 
to an inverted U shape stanchion arrangement on each side. The side 
units are not entirely uncommon, for the day and allowed the jib to 
be brought inside the lifelines nicely.
There were bases where the old pulpit was but It was probably let go 
because of the assy spinnaker.


After six years of cruising I've haven't had the desire to reinstate 
the pulpit. PM me if you want pics.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 01:15 PM 24/01/2014, you wrote:


Gang, I need opinions and the wisdom of the group.

I have a 1990 34+ and am interested in reworking the original bow 
pulpit so that it would be open at the front, versus current wrap 
around design.  Think modern J Boats.  Purpose of the upgrade would 
be to allow tacking an ASYM tack line farther forward onto anchor 
roller while reducing/eliminating chafe.  I am familiar with ATN 
Tacker and similar methods for keeping tack  luff away from bow but 
I dont like these methods.  Has anyone redesigned their bow pulpit 
or have any experience or second hand knowledge of someone who has done this?




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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Curtis]

Its not working



On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 7:11 PM, andrew rothweiler andy...@att.net wrote:

 Regarding the CNC Photo Album site, I've tried several times clicking in
 the Classified Ads button, but can't get it to open.  Could be my
 randomly faulty computer; otherwise, is the classified section working?
 Thanks

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[dwight]

Just tried the Classified Ads section, works fine for me but takes 5-10
seconds to load.there is not much on it but it does work, at least on my
machine

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: January 6, 2014 9:22 AM
To: andrew rothweiler; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Its not working

 

 

On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 7:11 PM, andrew rothweiler andy...@att.net wrote:

Regarding the CNC Photo Album site, I've tried several times clicking in the
Classified Ads button, but can't get it to open.  Could be my randomly
faulty computer; otherwise, is the classified section working? Thanks


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-- 
Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should
really be running the world. - Nicholas Monsarrat

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6479 - Release Date: 01/06/14

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Peter Fell]

Try right-clicking on the button and ‘open in new tab’'. Takes a long time to 
open but it did for me. Ads (all 3 of them!) have quite a delay on them too.

From: Curtis 
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 5:22 AM
To: andrew rothweiler ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Its not working 




On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 7:11 PM, andrew rothweiler andy...@att.net wrote:

  Regarding the CNC Photo Album site, I've tried several times clicking in the 
Classified Ads button, but can't get it to open.  Could be my randomly faulty 
computer; otherwise, is the classified section working? Thanks

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-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat





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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[dwight veinot]

If I recall correctly that repair or rebuild job on a 33-2 could involve a
little more than a simple mast step rebuild, as if any mast step rebuild
were a simple thing to do in the first place.  I recall reading an account
from one contributor on this list who reported first hand about exactly that
repair on a 33-2 and I seem to recall that more extensive work was involved
and that one could expect to spend in the neighbourhood of $20,000 to have
the job done properly.  That said, the 33-2 is a beautiful design that has
good speed potential and sails very well to weather but the very issue that
Andrew has raised was a major concern when I chose to pass on a 33-2 in
favour of a boat that was 10 years older,  my CC 35 MKII that I have now
sailed very happily for nearly 10 years now with no structural issues.
Alianna is now in her 39th year and going strong and looking good.  All
sailboats require some regular upkeep and repair but probably most would
agree that structural integrity in the mast step / keel sump is a very high
priority issue. 

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: July 23, 2013 12:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Andrew,

Many of us have had to rebuild our mast step.  It's really not a big deal.

Many early CC's had an unprotected, unencapsulated wooden mast steps.  The
one on my 35-1 was simply 3-4 pieces of marine ply bonded together and cut
to bridge across the bilge.  After years in the wet environment the wood got
saturated and lost strength.  I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster.
The first time I tensioned it, I shoved the mast down into the bilge a
couple inches.  Oops!

If the boat you're looking at has a weak step, it's not a deal breaker.  You
have to mark and measure everything around the mast step, pull the rig,
scrape out the old rotted step and build a new step.  You can order thick
fiberglass sheets and cut them to fit and glass them in.  You can shape a
piece of white oak to rebuild it.  You can do like I did and build up a
solid glass step with a limber hole underneath for drainage.  If you're
fairly handy with West System epoxy or fiberglass resin, it's not a huge
job.

The only critical thing is measure, measure, measure so the new step is the
same elevation as the old one.

You have lots of help here on the list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 

 


  _  


From: andrew rothweiler andy...@att.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 9:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Hello,

It's really helpful and informative to read the posts on this list, thanks
to all who contribute.

 

I'm have  a 33-2 under contract, but have heard about a potential keel/mast
step issue with this model, having to do with a collapsing grid. I've tried
to research this on the CC site on Sailnet, but there's little info going
back to 2008 posts. Guess I'll find out more from the survey.

 

Can anyone guide me to a source of info about this?  Should such a problem
eliminate a specific boat from consideration? Is the proper repair very
expensive? Sounds like it would be.

 

Thanks in advance for any help with this.


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  _  

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3204/6010 - Release Date: 07/22/13

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Dennis C.]

Andrew,

Many of us have had to rebuild our mast step.  It's really not a big deal.

Many early CC's had an unprotected, unencapsulated wooden mast steps.  The one 
on my 35-1 was simply 3-4 pieces of marine ply bonded together and cut to 
bridge across the bilge.  After years in the wet environment the wood got 
saturated and lost strength.  I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster.  The 
first time I tensioned it, I shoved the mast down into the bilge a couple 
inches.  Oops!

If the boat you're looking at has a weak step, it's not a deal breaker.  You 
have to mark and measure everything around the mast step, pull the rig, scrape 
out the old rotted step and build a new step.  You can order thick fiberglass 
sheets and cut them to fit and glass them in.  You can shape a piece of white 
oak to rebuild it.  You can do like I did and build up a solid glass step with 
a limber hole underneath for drainage.  If you're fairly handy with West System 
epoxy or fiberglass resin, it's not a huge job.

The only critical thing is measure, measure, measure so the new step is the 
same elevation as the old one.

You have lots of help here on the list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA






 From: andrew rothweiler andy...@att.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 9:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)
 


Hello,
It's really helpful and informative to read the posts on this list, thanks to 
all who contribute.
 
I'm have  a 33-2 under contract, but have heard about a potential keel/mast 
step issue with this model, having to do with a collapsing grid. I've tried to 
research this on the CC site on Sailnet, but there's little info going back 
to 2008 posts. Guess I'll find out more from the survey.
 
Can anyone guide me to a source of info about this?  Should such a problem 
eliminate a specific boat from consideration? Is the proper repair very 
expensive? Sounds like it would be.
 
Thanks in advance for any help with this.
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Della Barba, Joe]

I have an AIS receiver-only and love it. Class A is better, as in more power 
and more frequent broadcasts, but it uses more power and costs about 5 times as 
much.
Beware the FleaBay AIS units. Many of them seem to come from ship breakers in 
India and are missing parts. Also note many Class A units run on 24 volts.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina CC 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 10:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

Hey Fellow CCers

Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS 
transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road that 
can help?

Thanks

--
Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson]

I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.

Joel Aronson


On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Fellow CCers

 Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS 
 transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road that 
 can help?

 Thanks

 --
 Mike
 S/V Persuasion
 CC 37 K/CB
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Frederick G Street]

On Mar 22, 2013, at 12:21 PM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov 
wrote:

 Nothing stopping anyone from using Class A but the .

True.  But I stand by my statement, using the word generally.  Here's more on 
the differences between Class A and Class B:

 The International Maritime Organization (IMO) and the International 
 Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) requires AIS to be fitted 
 aboard international voyaging ships with gross tonnage of 300, cargo ships of 
 500 gross tonnage and all passenger ships regardless of size.
 
 There are several important functional differences between AIS Class A and 
 Class B transponders.  
   - Class A meets the requirements of the IMO AIS carriage requirements and 
 is standardized in SOLAS, while the Class B provides capabilities which are 
 not fully compliant with IMO requirements. 
   - A main difference is the data communication technology; Class A units 
 utilize Self-Organizing Time-Division Multiple Access (SOTDMA) technology.  
 This technology ensures that VHF transmissions of different transponders do 
 not occur at the same time by synchronizing their data transmission to an 
 exact timing standard, providing that no transmissions are missed.  Class B 
 units utilize Carrier-Sense TDMA (CSTDMA), which listens to the AIS network 
 to determine if a slot is being used. Once the unit determines that the slot 
 is open, it powers up its transmitter and broadcasts a 1 slot position 
 report.  The Class B is also required to listen for reservations from base 
 stations and comply with these reservations. If the unit cannot find an open 
 slot, it will not broadcast.  
   - The reporting intervals are lower with a Class B transponder than a Class 
 A transponder. 
   - The transmitted AIS data from a Class B transponder is limited; a Class A 
 transponder transmits and receives all required AIS data
 


IF you go Class A, be prepared to be constantly changing your AIS data as far 
as Navigational Status (underway using engine, underway sailing, moored, at 
anchor, etc.), as this data is required to be in the Class A AIS datastream.  
Class B is a lot simpler, and really geared toward recreational use.  Class A 
transponders also use significantly more power than Class B, not a non-issue to 
sailors.  I don't see any benefit to spending the extra $$$, unless you think 
you'll be more visible to large vessels as a Class A vessel; that's a subject 
still being debated:

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2010/04/the_class_b_ais_filtering_myth_revisited_argh.html

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2010/12/class_b_ais_filtering_the_word_from_dr_norris.html


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Bob Moriarty]

Joel,
Is this the SI-TEX unit that you were looking at?
http://www.si-tex.com/index.php/product-information/ais/sas-300-ais-class-b-ais-transceiver-detail

Although I don't have any of their hardware, I like the SI-TEX brand. They
seem to occupy the value space. Value, like free wind, = good.  :-)

Full disclosure: I'm just a day-sailor who rarely ventures outside the
mouth of the St Johns River in Florida. Despite this, I bought an MilTech
AIS receiver 6 or 7 years ago because I thought it was really cool and
relatively inexpensive. It once picked up the signal from an old tugboat in
for repairs at Green Cove Springs. w00t.

As for AIS (receivers), do folks think that a radar-like display of
approaching targets is OK or even perhaps optimal?
Or, is it be important to be able to put the nearby boats in the context of
a chart?

I know that many chart-plotters can interpret and display AIS data and
predict potential collisions. But, might this be a good case for having a
standalone unit, dedicated for nearby situational awareness - kinda like
radar I suppose. Probably depends upon one's situation.  :-)

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote:

 I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.

 Joel Aronson


 On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:

  Hey Fellow CCers
 
  Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS
 transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road
 that can help?
 
  Thanks
 
  --
  Mike
  S/V Persuasion
  CC 37 K/CB

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson]

Bob
No I will connect it to the plotter.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028691%7C2028908id=1849984

Joel Aronson


On Mar 22, 2013, at 6:37 PM, Bob Moriarty bobmo...@gmail.com wrote:

Joel,
Is this the SI-TEX unit that you were looking at?
http://www.si-tex.com/index.php/product-information/ais/sas-300-ais-class-b-ais-transceiver-detail

Although I don't have any of their hardware, I like the SI-TEX brand. They
seem to occupy the value space. Value, like free wind, = good.  :-)

Full disclosure: I'm just a day-sailor who rarely ventures outside the
mouth of the St Johns River in Florida. Despite this, I bought an MilTech
AIS receiver 6 or 7 years ago because I thought it was really cool and
relatively inexpensive. It once picked up the signal from an old tugboat in
for repairs at Green Cove Springs. w00t.

As for AIS (receivers), do folks think that a radar-like display of
approaching targets is OK or even perhaps optimal?
Or, is it be important to be able to put the nearby boats in the context of
a chart?

I know that many chart-plotters can interpret and display AIS data and
predict potential collisions. But, might this be a good case for having a
standalone unit, dedicated for nearby situational awareness - kinda like
radar I suppose. Probably depends upon one's situation.  :-)

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote:

 I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.

 Joel Aronson


 On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:

  Hey Fellow CCers
 
  Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS
 transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road
 that can help?
 
  Thanks
 
  --
  Mike
  S/V Persuasion
  CC 37 K/CB

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