[Elecraft] Lightning concerns: Was: K4 Remote: My QTH vs. a friend's, many miles to the north

2024-05-04 Thread Rick NK7I

Thread subject changed to reflect the actual topic.

It is the station owner that is responsible for lightning protection (or 
other environmental risks); not Elecraft or most any product vendor of 
any type.  To require more, would cost more (for the hardware and for 
the liability risk that the company would have to endure).


The area/s missed in the protective system design, can be demonstrated 
by a nearby or direct hit (induced voltages and current can be almost as 
damaging); as you already found (and it's EASY to miss an entry point, 
no blame intended).


The ARRL has a good amount of simplified how-to in the book "Grounding 
and Bonding" but several readings may still be needed for understanding 
the content.  There are other good resources (Motorola has one, so does 
the cell phone industry; each is excellent but best used to induce 
sleep, they are intense and technical and reference various applicable 
laws).


It's not all about lightning but static dissipation as an energy 
source.  That static source may also be dust, wind, snow, or rain (yes, 
water).  Diverting that charge OUTSIDE the building (shack) to GROUND is 
the basic plan but it must also include EVERY entry point (cable TV, 
phone, DSL, antenna, rotor, control cables for antennas, mast, satellite 
dishes and tower).


Using several ground rods as part of a system is common BUT they must 
all be bonded to each other AND to the one common safety ground of the 
building (US and other countries require this, by law).  Use of water 
pipes is no longer code, in the US (because PEX and PVC are common, 
defeating ability to take to ground).


From your description Jorge, it sounds like you did it correctly, but 
missed an entry point.  Now you'll have to replace parts, sadly.


Let's limit any more, to Elecraft specific topics.  This one has 
wandered well afield of Elecraft.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 5/4/2024 9:21 PM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:

Hi Dave

I have a panel like yours, each antenna to a discharger, on a copper sheet.
Nothing has happened with the coaxial and antenna switch

I have several rods that make the ground and a copper bar behind the desk
and all the equipment is connected to the ground

The lighting came through the antenna of my internet link, then it went to
the router, then to the computer where I have the kpa1500 connected with a
USB cable

My question about whether Elecraft could do more is whether there could be
something better than the USB it currently has, which seems to me to be a
simple USB connector, like that of any printer for example.

So there is my question, if for such an expensive piece of equipment, there
could be something of better quality, if not, I apologize, we will have to
live with these things.

See you in the bands!!!

Have a good weekend!

73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

El dom, 5 may 2024 a las 1:08, Dave (NK7Z) () escribió:


Jorge,

I can only go by what you said:

"Last week I experienced a lightning strike"

That sounds a lot like a direct discharge into the shack, so I am
responding to your comment, if that is not correct, please help me
understand what actually happened...

Lightening is strange, it can take out one piece of equipment, and not
touch another...  It all depends on how your shack is grounded, and how
it is bonded.  When grounding commercial equipment, even the path the
wire takes is important...  Curves, straight line runs, etc...

What sort of ground system are you using, and what sort of lightening
protection did you have in place at the time of the lightening event?

Take a look at:

https://www.nk7z.net/building-a-coax-entry-panel/

That is my entry panel.  I am slowly building a ground ring around the
house...  Why?  Because only I can build a system to help reduce the
chances of lightening taking out something in my environment.  It is
after all my home, and my environment, so I can not, and do not, hold
Elecraft responsible for things they can not control.  Elecraft, can not
be responsible for my grounding, and bonding practices.

Respectfully, in your original question you implied that Elecraft should
have done more to make the KPA1500 withstand an as yet, correctly
defined lightening event.  Again, respectfully, if you believe Elecraft
failed in some way, then you should say what, and how they failed...
Not imply they should have done more...  That is unfair.

With respect to the weekend-- I hope to see you in the 7QP contest!  I
will be on Sunday, but I fear the Sun will not assist much...  Take care
my friend...

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/4/24 17:42, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:

hi Dave

I don't know what to tell you, I imagine that a direct discharge into
the shack would have burned everything.

I had 6 USB cables connected to the laptop, they burned the USB of a box
of GHE that costs $160 and the USB of the KPA15

Re: [Elecraft] Using the k3 with WITHSJTX?

2024-05-04 Thread Rick NK7I
No content, please use plain text when sending to THIS list. (no 
formatting or HTML)


Thank you,
Rick nk7i

On 5/4/2024 10:59 AM, Ray wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Remote: Station design

2024-05-04 Thread Rick NK7I

 * Elecraft has no control in how one sets up (or uses) a station.
 * A remote station needs all of the same protection enjoyed by any
   other station; they are the same except one is used remotely.

On the last premise; set up the remote station as if it were any other 
station; RFI and noise mitigation, generator back up power, UPS, 
lightning protection*; GROUNDING AND BONDING, heating and (!) cooling 
(!); again just like any station should appear and operate (even if it's 
stuffed into a closet).


The power supply system should provide for continuous power to the 
network too.  It's MORE important if the station is intended for remote 
ops.  The control operator (local or remote) is required to have FULL 
control over the station operations; plan for worst case events that 
would affect that; loss of network is a key consideration for remote use.


[I have a lot of UPS, one per mesh node included, for the approx one 
minute until the generator switches in upon power failure and one  UPS 
per computer power source to keep the services I provide, online.  
Simply because Starlink and the network takes over ten minutes to 
re-establish with a power loss.  That's a long key down time!]


It is up to the USER (remote in particular) to operate the station 
(remote or local) in a way that does not cause harm (on the air or 
through ab/use).  This means small things like making sure the 
transmitter is not locked on (CW key down, FSK transmit) in the event of 
a network fail so it cannot be unkeyed (use of VOX or macros and memory 
use for sending non-phone message strings)


That's nothing new.  A remote station, is just another station with the 
same needs and planning as any other station; except the goal is to use 
it remotely and the ability to control it at all times during use.


73,
Rick nk7i

* Lightning protection how-to or discussion is beyond the scope of this 
group, but EVERY STATION should have a system in place WITH grounding 
and bonding of every item in the shack, includes every wire that enters 
the building (cable TV, phone, power, DSL) or that sticks into the air 
for radio (tower/mast, sat dishes, antennas).


Even if the station location rarely has lightning.  Properly done, the 
protection system would also help static buildup, from rain, wind, snow, 
dust or any other cause.  Static discharge cause is more than lightning 
and can also damage (or destroy) equipment.


Even then, a direct hit may not save the station but it will show what 
was NOT properly taken care of, what was missed in the protection system.


In some cases, it can even lower the noise floor (MAY, not will).


On 5/4/2024 9:36 AM, G4GNX wrote:

I don’t think you can expect Elecraft to take care of any safety issues, 
especially with lightning.

You could install a remote camera to keep an eye on things, along with smoke 
detectors and some form of extinguisher, such as those now available for 3D 
printers.
To protect from lightning, you’d need to install antenna switches which can be 
controlled either automatically or remotely.
You also need to install lightning arrestors.
Of course all of this won’t prevent damage if you get a direct strike.
To internally protect a K4 or any other Elecraft product is just downright 
impossible.
“Acts of God” are just what they are and mostly out of our control.

73,
Alan - G4GNX
South Coast UK
Elecraft K4D / KPA500 / KAT500 / IC-9700





On 4 May 2024, at 17:10, Jorge Diez - CX6VM  wrote:

Wayne

What worries me is having a very expensive device like a K4 connected in a
remote place, to the antennas, power and internet

How to avoid damage to the equipment?

Last week I experienced a lightning strike and the I/O module of my KPA1500
was damaged, what has Elecraft thought to ensure that the equipment is not
damaged?

With the remote K3, what was connected to the network was the remoterig,
with the K4 what is connected to the network is a device worth more than
6000 dollars

So, since the I/O module does not have sufficient protections, what is
Elecraft's recommendation to protect them?

thanks,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 Failure

2024-04-23 Thread Rick NK7I
It sounds like blown FETs.  It may be time to ship it to CA where 
any/all upgrades can be done as well as repair.


They're a little backed up, so it may take a few weeks.  Parts and shop 
time too of course.


Call the techs to discuss it and get an RSA and ask if they want you to 
pull the transformer to save shipping weight/cost.  You MUST have the 
RSA (write it on the box, a cover letter inside and with any email 
discussion once it's issued).


The tech indicated that damage to the FETs may be cumulative over time, 
so it may not be THIS event.  But it won't hurt to go through the entire 
antenna and feed system to be sure.


Or you can dive in to repair it; if you feel qualified.

Sorry, been there too.

Rick nk7i

On 4/23/2024 6:52 PM, Dick Bingham wrote:

Greeting to everyone

I have read the KPA500 operator manual in hopes of solving my
issue and have found nothing that solves/fixes the problem.

This amplifier has been a workhorse for many years and today
after the KAT500 antenna tuner searched/found a 'match' for a new
antenna, I selected OPER on the KPA500, and applied drive power
to the amplifier.

Immediately, the amplifier displayed a momentary overload indicated
by the top row of LEDs (power indicator ones) all flashing ON after
which, the amp FAULTED and shut down. The RF drive level was
around 20-watts and should have provided about 300-watts output at
the time this occurred.

I tapped the OPER/STBY button and tried to activate the amplifier and
found there is no response to incoming RF drive.

I removed/reapplied 'mains' power, pressed the 'EDIT' and ON keys
simultaneously to reset everything and that did not correct the problem.

The power supply voltage is in spec so no issue there.

With the OPER light GREEN and slowly increasing the RF drive level
to the amp, there is a point where an internal relay 'click' can be heard,
the 50-watt LED on the top row of LEDs turns red and the FAULT light
turns red.

I could not detect any sign of smoke (nose/eyes) so have not opened
the case to look for burned parts.

Before I open the 'case' and look for obvious problems, any observations
or suggestions received here will be appreciated. Kinda looks like blown
amp power FETs.

Dick - w7wkr
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sub RX Not Working

2024-04-17 Thread Rick NK7I

Check the menu setting?  Not Inst?

73,
Rick nk7i


On 4/17/2024 8:39 PM, Robie Elms wrote:

Dave,

Mark sure you do not have the AUX antenna selected for your sub receiver.
Push and Hold the RX ANT button and change it from Main to AUX or vice
versa.  This selection is band sensitive.

Robie AJ4F

On Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 10:07 PM H D Barr  wrote:


My K3 (non-S) is equipped with the second rx, which I rarely use.  After
infrequent use (got a K4) the sub rx seems to have stopped functioning;
no signal or noise  can be heard from it. When the "Sub" button is
tapped, "No Sub" appears in the display. The main rx and tx functions
seem normal.  Before I open up the K3 to see if any cables have come
loose, I am searching for more obvious (or easier to check) possible
reasons, including operator error.  Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks and 73.

Dave, K2YG

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Re: [Elecraft] Can't find release notes for K4 version R35

2024-04-10 Thread Rick NK7I

Fn | Updates | Release Notes

will show you what you're looking for.  R35 updated the front display code.

73,
Rick nk7i


On 4/10/2024 10:42 AM, Bob wrote:

I installed version R35 today, but didn't see any release notes as part of
the update, or on the elecraft website itself.

Any idea what has changed?

73, Bob, WB4SON
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Problem

2024-04-09 Thread Rick NK7I
Using the utility, erase the settings for 20M and reteach it? Once 
trained, leave it in MAN mode for daily use.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 4/9/2024 8:30 AM, Mike Murray wrote:

My KAT500 will no longer tune in AUTO mode on 20M and does not change to
prior stored settings in MAN mode.  All other bands work as expected in
both modes.  Any suggestions on where I should look first?

Mike - W0AG
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Re: [Elecraft] Weird K-3 Power Behavior

2024-04-06 Thread Rick NK7I

Correct.

73,
Rick nk7i


On 4/6/2024 12:03 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Hmmm ... I thought that the ALC started AT the 5th bar and the first 4 
bars were sort of a VU-meter.  Hence Don's occasional advice, "4 full 
bars and the 5th occasionally flickering." I've been known to get 
things wrong in the past however.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

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Re: [Elecraft] Considering purchase of K4D

2024-03-13 Thread Rick NK7I

The highlights are:

1)

 * A MUCH quieter receiver (the BEST CW rig I've used over the past
   almost 50 years);
 * Better overall performance;
 * It is a living growing product (some things, still being fleshed out
   or developed)
 * Ability to manage via one real serial port, 2 USB com ports or
   unlimited via IP _all at the same time_.
 * It will only get better over time;  the K3 is a 'dead end' line
   (that still works VERY well) it has reached it's limit;
 * You can get parts and add ons for the K4;
 * It has ability to be run by it's internal or external macros (HUGE
   flexibility option);
 * Native 1GHz capable network, in place;
 * Simpler overall interfacing for specific station needs (antennas,
   transverters, switches);
 * Simpler remote operations, including K4-K4 without a computer and
   VK4 on laptops, tablets and phones (shortly).

Noise reduction and noise blanking, is one of the works in progress 
(remote operations topped 'the list').  While adequate for me now (I'm 
rural but with some power lines, electric fences and other rural 
'things'); it could be made better.  The quieter receiver does help make 
weaker signals heard, most of the time even with the noises of farm and 
timber lands.


2)

 * Because Rob Sherwood (and he has clearly stated) only saw one K4
   with the earlier firmware versions and it is MUCH improved now (and
   still in progress).  If you read the rest of Rob, it's not about all
   of the numbers, but a compilation of MANY factors (mostly UI like
   menu and knob access).
 * An updated evaluation can be done IF someone is willing to loan (or
   buy) a K4 for Rob for testing (takes xxx weeks, he's thorough).
 * One does not judge the performance of any living line, on the first
   model (i.e. the Mustang, Corvette or Camaro); things get better
   (it's no Pinto or Edsel).
 * There is one likely near you; seek it out and ask to see it play (or
   watch some videos online).

Is the K4 perfect?  Not yet but my very well dressed K3/P3 sits in a 
storage box (next to other bygone gear).


Is now the right time to buy?  Yes, there is a sale until the end of the 
month (or buy used but be QUICK about it once posted, seconds count) and 
the prices won't get much better.


To install my K4, I pulled the K3/P3 off the desk, reconnected 
everything to the K4 and was up and running in minutes (excluding some 
software changes of course, mostly port settings and audio levels).


I'm no shill and I have no issue in being direct.  I liked the K4 so 
much that I bought a second for chair two or as backup should the need 
ever arise.  (Station growth never ends.)


Most of the default menus items were 'ok' and over the next couple weeks 
were adjusted to my operating preferences (DXing) and local conditions.


K3 to K4 transition is not a steep learning curve; but they are two 
different rigs, there IS a curve.  (Kenwood to Elecraft, slightly 
steeper.  "Other" brands, steeper again but MUCH simpler.)


73,
Rick nk7i


On 3/13/2024 12:56 PM, n...@earthlink.net wrote:

I am considering the purchase of a K4D, upgrading from K3+ ("+" means I have
installed all available upgrades except the USB I/O board, but it is not
quite a K3s), but I have a few questions and pardon me if these have been
asked and answered before, as they probably have:

  


1.  Other than diversity receive, what additional benefits do I get with
the 'D' version (for $1000)?
2.  Why is the K4D down so low on the Sherwood receiver list and does it
really make a difference in a somewhat noise, semi-urban environment?

  


Thanks in advance,

  


Allen R. Brier N5XZ

1515 Windloch Lane

Richmond, TX 77406

713-705-4801

n...@arrl.net

  


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Re: [Elecraft] Piggy back KPA 1500 onto KPA 100

2024-03-11 Thread Rick NK7I
Think it through, it is an ANTENNA tuner (matching circuit).  You disable all 
of them along the path (BYPASS), EXCEPT at the antenna connection.  

It is presumptive 50 ohm to 50 ohm resistive at each stage, no tuner required, 
except for the antenna.

73,
Rick nk7i

> On Mar 11, 2024, at 12:28 PM, Karl W Hubbard via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> This question may have  been answered in the  past.
> I have a KX3 and a  KPA100, both with ATUs. Can I power up my TX via addition 
> of a KPA1500, assuming I upgrade my antenna (Buckmaster 300watt OCFD 8 
> bander)  to the  3000 watt version ? If feasible without risk of blowing up 
> anything, and  assuming the KPA 1500 also has a built-in autotuner, at what 
> stage should auto tuner control be established?
> 
> 
> Thanks, and 73’s 
> Karl AF5LQ 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sub-RX Deaf on One Band

2024-01-24 Thread Rick NK7I

Did you check the filter settings (or filter) on the sub?

73,
Rick nk7i


On 1/24/2024 3:35 PM, Michael Carter via Elecraft wrote:

Hi Pete,

If you've confirmed that the RX ANT is NOT selected
on the 80 meter band for the sub-RX,  I would
check the CONFIG entry for the KRX3 to be sure
that it's not selecting the AUX RF input.  It might
have been selected inadvertently if you used
BSET to change the sub-RX settings.

73,
Mike, K8CN


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Re: [Elecraft] User's Dilemma

2023-12-15 Thread Rick NK7I
Flex isn’t cheap either but the wait for non-warranty repair tells Elecrafters 
waiting; hold my beer.  A month minimum, often longer. 

73,
Rick NK7I


> On Dec 15, 2023, at 12:25 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:
> 
> That said, does anyone think it's acceptable to have even a 4-week hold 
> between arrival of the item there and its entering the repair process?  
> Elecraft equipment isn't cheap, and I believe that the current situation 
> needs to be addressed, either in Watsonville or otherwise.
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Remote Lives and Breathes!

2023-12-15 Thread Rick NK7I
As (other) Rick says, port forwarding varies between routers; but the 
two key points to research for your router are:


1)  Assign (reserve) the K4 MAC(s) to specific IP addresses, so the 
K4(s) is/are ALWAYS at the same LAN IP address (reboot the K4).
2)  Port forward 9204 to the K4 (only one can be shared with the 
outside, if more than one K4 on the LAN) IP address.


You may want to make sure that a password is made within the K4 (instead 
of anyone) so you have some access control.


If you have (like me) Starlink or other CGNAT using ISP, then it gets 
more complicated and probably isn't a topic to be discussed on this list.


Across my Starlink LAN (I have two LAN), it's working beautifully and 
should be available 'real soon now' for public beta... have some 
patience yet while the field test team runs it through it's paces and 
some spit and polish are applied.


73,
Rick nk7i

On 12/15/2023 10:25 AM, Rick Tavan wrote:
Simplicity is the keynote to K4 Remote. If you have an external IP 
address, you only have to fill in a few fields to get going. You do 
have to set up a "port forward" rule in your router in order to make 
YOUR K4 accessible to remote control ops. All the routers have 
different web pages to do this but they're pretty simple to navigate. 
Mostly. ;-)  If all you want to do is control remote K4's, you only 
have to type in their address and, if established, password. It really 
couldn't be easier.


/Rick N6XI

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Re: [Elecraft] Power oscillation problem (KPA500+KAT500)

2023-11-21 Thread Rick NK7I

I'm glad you found the cause and a fix.

I'll add that, in my experience, 40M is always the most problematic band 
for causing RFI problems.  In a vehicle or home, it seems that a LOT of 
'stuff' is sensitive to 40M.  160M comes in second for that status.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/21/2023 2:55 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:

"I should be able to fix the problem with better decoupling and/or choking of the 
breakout box connections."

Problem fixed by adding a 0.01 disc ceramic caps on each of the 4 RCA keyline 
jacks on the breakout box.  I should have included them when I built it.

Interesting problem though and all sorts of nasty possible causes gave way to a 
very simple one.

Why didn't I see this problem earlier?

My log shows I have only been on 40 m twice in the last two years.  A year ago 
I had a new roof mounted heat pump installed.  The antenna runs near ducting 
that was changed and the installers broke one antenna support that I have not 
repaired.  My attic is a hostile work environment and best avoided if possible.

73,
Andy, k3wyc

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Re: [Elecraft] Power oscillation problem (KPA500+KAT500)

2023-11-20 Thread Rick NK7I

Andy,

You've answered your own question.  If it doesn't happen when the entire 
rig system transmits into a dummy load, but has problems while connected 
to an antenna; you know where to look.


In that search, high on the list of suspects (right up there with 
failure of any antenna elements) is damage from tiny livestock (mice, 
rats, birds that may have gotten into the attic or bugs like mud wasps); 
chewed wires, cables and insulators.


However with your extended time using a 40M antenna on 80M even at 250 
watts, it's likely that some part of the antenna system (feed, chokes, 
transformers, wires etc) has broken down (high voltages are possible 
causes).  Something changed, you know where to look now.  Be ready to 
replace the antenna with the means to prevent another similar failure.


73,
Rick nk7i

On 11/20/2023 7:16 PM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
This is really strange.The only thing I can think of is some kind of 
feedback to the TS-590s ALC circuitry caused by common mode current on 
the feedline. An easy test would be to connect a common mode choke at 
the output of the KAT500 and see if the problem goes away. Does the 
antenna have some kind of choke or balun at the feedpoint? If not, 
probably it should, just to help reduce local RFI.
Why did this suddenly happen? I have no idea. Changes in grounding or 
any conductors attached to the system can affect the path that the 
common mode current takes.


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 21/11/2023 1:20, Andy Durbin wrote:

I have a new power oscillation problem that is manifest only on 40 m
when using an attic dipole. Basic station configuration is Kenwood
TS-590S, KAT500, KPA500.  As drive power is slowly increased and
output power rises above about 100 W the power output falls to zero
then slowly rises again. If drive power is increased the frequency of
the oscillation increases but the peak output power does not change.

At onset the oscillation frequency is 3.5 Hz.  While KPA500 output
power is cycling TS-590S exciter power remains constant, KPA500
remains keyed, and neither LP-100A, KPA500, nor KAT500 indicate any
SWR transient.  KPA500 and KAT500 do not fault.

This 40 m attic dipole has been in use for several years and this
problem is new.  I have set any arbitrary 250 W limit for this
antenna and have, in the past, experienced no significant problems
running that power level.

What could cause KPA500 to stop power output and then resume? The
KPA500 will output 500 W into a dummy load on the same frequency with
no oscillation so that seems to rule out a KPA500 hardware issue.

Next suspect would be RFI but what feedback mechanism would cause
KPA500 to drop to low or zero power while drive remains constant and
key line remains active.  Why would I have RFI now if I didn't
before?

Next suspect would seem to be some sort of breakdown in the antenna
system and that breakdown heals when power is removed.  But how could
any breakdown pull power to zero and not fault KPA500 or KAT500?

Next step will be visual inspection of the attic antenna.  I'm
posting in case anyone has seen a similar problem and has any
suggestions as to the cause.

Early draft notes and some scope traces here -
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rxidnm4bkv9pissfyln00/Power-Oscillation-40-m-draft-1.pdf?rlkey=446vn8bjoe2bv2xn4un86zpd2=0 



 Thanks and 73, Andy, k3wyc

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Re: [Elecraft] Duty Cycle of FT8 #Elecraft

2023-11-10 Thread Rick NK7I

Hi Jim,

I've experienced a 10% drop in output as the finals warm up, which 
doesn't ultimately make a large difference, but can be compensated if 
desired (a percentage of 1 dB).


It can run legal limit on all bands; but into a SteppIR, because of the 
transformer/balun in play not being efficient at 6M, limit the output to 
no more than 1 KW (ask me how I know).


I use the default speeds, but I'm also uncomfortable with it going above 
65C, so I step in at that point and boost the fans.


73,
Rick nk7i

On 11/10/2023 11:34 AM, Jim Brown wrote:


I've been told by someone who knows that 1) it is normal for MOSFet 
devices to lose efficiency as they heat; 2) the KPA1500 can run WSJT 
modes at rated power except on 6M, where it's best to not run much 
more than 1 kW for long TX sessions, like meteor scatter. It's an 
issue un-related to the the MOSFets; and 3) to use default fan 
settings and let the amp adjust upward as needed.


73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Duty Cycle of FT8 #Elecraft

2023-11-10 Thread Rick NK7I
The duty cycle of FTx is 43.3% and may be less than RTTY or PSK 
depending on the transmit:receive ratio; or long winded SSB.


I've run the KPA1500 at or near legal limit into a resonant antenna on 
Ftx, for hours at a time without issues.  It will warm the shack and I 
suggest headphones, the fan can make some noise.


The lower output that you run, the less efficient the amp is, which is 
total power used (presented as heat) to output power. Sometimes (30M), 
that's the cost (the K3/4 won't produce the US legal limit of 200 watts, 
without the amp).


73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/10/2023 11:14 AM, Victor Rosenthal wrote:

I don't have a kpa1500, but I recall someone from Elecraft saying that
since the efficiency decreases when power is reduced, backing off the power
does not reduce the heat load.

Victor 4X6GP

On Fri, Nov 10, 2023, 16:28 Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:


I started operating FT8 while my KPA-1500amp was out for repair.  Now
it's back and raising a question:

Operating with just my K-3, set at 100 watts, I would see 100 watts
indicated on its meter through the whole 15-second FT8 transmission..
When I drive my amp, it only needs 30 watts for full CW power (on 24
MHz),  but the amp indicates 1200 watts input for the whole FT8 transmit
cycle.  I'm wondering if I should back off to protect the
amp,considering the duty cycle is so high - on the other hand, the
temperature reading profile of the amp seems to be pretty much the same
as on CW.

73, Pete N4ZR
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Re: [Elecraft] KH1 delivery date projection please

2023-10-27 Thread Rick NK7I
Wayne said that he expects within 1-2 weeks.  Without sounding 
insulting, sometimes he's right about that.


https://youtu.be/YtV24qha2Uc

73,
Rick nk7i


On 10/27/2023 4:44 PM, Pete Meier via Elecraft wrote:

When is the KH1 reasonably expected to start shipping?  No wild guesses please.

Pete
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Re: [Elecraft] Digital mode power handling for KAT3

2023-10-13 Thread Rick NK7I

The answer is in the results of simple questions:

Who, if any, has had their KAT3 fail and for what cause?  What was 
actual (r,x,c) antenna load, that was being attempted?


I suspect the failures are low, it's smart enough to quit trying if the 
match is too extreme.  The same components (mostly) are used in the 
KAT500 (just larger sizes) which also has a low failure rate.


Instead of guessing, answers of actual failures would provide data points.

73,
Rick nk7i


On 10/13/2023 11:56 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


I am reasonably certain that the KAT3 can handle 100 watts for a 
lengthy period to time (enough for normal FT8 purposes) if the SWR it 
is trying to match is low enough.  But the original query didn't say 
how high an SWR he was trying to match.  The KAT3 is certainly capable 
of matching some pretty high SWRs (well over 10:1), but the question 
is how long can it push 100 watts into an SWR that it could otherwise 
normally handle at lower SWR.


Another factor is the phase of the impedance the KAT3 is trying to 
match.  A high SWR could present either a capacitive load or an 
inductive load to the KAT3.  In one case it could result in high 
currents within the KAT3 ... in another it could mean high internal 
voltages.


So the real question is ... can the KAT3 survive for X amount of time 
when pushing 100 watts into a high SWR at most any phase?   I can 
pretty much guarantee that nobody knows the answer to that question.


I wouldn't be at all surprised if the KAT3 could handle 100 watts into 
a high SWR for periods of time that were comfortable for FT8 if the 
phase of the load impedance resulted in higher currents. I'm not so 
confident about that if the phase gave high voltages. Heating takes a 
bit of time to be destructive ... voltage breakdowns and arc overs 
happen very quickly.


 73,
Dave   AB7E



On 10/13/2023 8:03 AM, Bill Frantz wrote:
I have frequently used my K3 at 100 watts with FT8 and RTTY. I 
haven’t had anything which would indicate that components are getting 
overstressed (e.g. bad smells).


Now, I don’t think I have given a full 100 watts when something isn’t 
connected in the antenna system, although the KAT3 does “match” an 
open antenna line. Since in that situation, it clicks for a long time 
before coming to a “match”, I tend to notice that there is a problem 
before applying full power.


73 Bill AE6JV


On Oct 12, 2023, at 23:42, David Gilbert  wrote:

I thought I was clear, but apparently not.  It is 100% duty cycle 
for 13 seconds, and zero for 2 + 15 seconds.  "Duty cycle" is all a 
function of what period of time you choose to integrate over.  Lots 
of components if heavily over stressed can go south in 13 seconds. 
Whether that is the case with the KAT3 is unspecified as far as I 
can tell.




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Re: [Elecraft] KI03B equipped K3 with N1MM and MMTTY

2023-09-22 Thread Rick NK7I

Guessing, but the audio setting would be found in MMTTY not N1MM.

Connect CODEC there and you should be good for AFSK.

GL,
Rick nk7i


On 9/22/2023 4:53 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
For the first time in maybe 6 years I thought I'd spend a little time 
in the CQWW RTTY  contest this weekend.  I selected the contest, and 
to my surprise N1MM and MMTY came up and I was receiving RTTY.


Alas, when I tried to transmit in AFSK, it appears that no audio is 
making it to the K-3.  I think that this is probably because since the 
last time I did RTTY, I installed a KIO3B in my K-3, I'm guessing that 
MM wants to see the AFSK audio passed through the KIO3B's sound card, 
but I don't know what has to be done to get this to happen.  Anyone 
out there with advice?  I have gone into the N1MM manual but failed to 
find anything.



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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding, Lightning & Attic Antennas

2023-07-29 Thread Rick NK7I
Heh, try Hardee board (concrete) or aluminum siding, or stucco (wire 
based to hold it together).  Or clay brick roofing.


BUT that also contains wifi within the structure for network security hi hi.

If the antenna choice is HOA based (yuck, ick, ew) perhaps laying the 
invisible wire ON the roof will work (better) for you (install on a week 
day while everyone is at work/school).  The other issues include potent 
RFI in the building (smoke detectors are great receivers, particularly 
on 40M; GFCI devices are second best).


73,
Rick nk7i

On 7/29/2023 9:46 AM, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

A bigger concern for attic antennas is the use of "radiation shield" plywood on 
the roof of houses build in the last 10 years or so that turn the attic into a Faraday 
cage.  The single most annoying reason cell phones don't work inside your houses anymore.


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Steve L
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2023 10:42 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Grounding, Lightning & Attic Antennas

Jim & Co.,
I’m reading all the recent posts on the Elecraft reflector concerning lightning 
protection…

After a recent move, I am working on the design and construction of attic 
antennas for both HF and V/UHF.  The topic of grounding and/or providing 
lightning protection for this installation has baffled me given no outside 
presence of any antenna components.  While not so concerned about a direct 
strike (perhaps naively?) I am concerned about induced currents and resulting 
equipment damage - where clearly disconnection may be the best protection.

Might anyone have any good references for reading/study on grounding 
recommendations, how to’s, best practices, etc. for attic antennas?

Thanks a bunch,

73,
Steve
AA8AF
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] A dumb question about lightning

2023-07-28 Thread Rick NK7I
We're in accord on static.  Like lightning, give it someplace to go 
OUTSIDE, not via the shack/structure.  Not just for noise but the 
voltages can be astoundingly high with enough amperage to cause harm.


[A local puts his feeds in a glass jar then is amused at the glow of 
discharge, contained.  But that is FAR from the only wire exposed.


These are complex topics that few can translate well to low dollars 
(hams) and better understanding.


It would have been fun to draw on that lunch crowd discussion.

The only true axiom is that if you don't have enough shunting, lightning 
will be happy to show you what you missed.  (Antenna didn't fall over?  
It's not big enough!).


73 Bill,
Rick nk7i


On 7/28/2023 3:36 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

I worked at Honeywell defense systems in the early 80's and I had two guys (Ph.D's from 
MIT) working in the office next to me that were experts in Meteorology... specifically 
the study of lightning.  I would eat lunch with them because they were 
"interesting" to say the least.  When they found out I was a ham and asking 
them about lightning protection they laughed hysterically.  Over their tenure they 
schooled me on my lack of knowledge in their area and beat into me immense gravity and 
consequences of a major lightning strike.  Imaginable voltages and currents.  You can 
prepare but you will never be sure.

Static is something else.  All of the antennas I design and implement have 
GROUNDED elements or static chokes to ground to reduce static to a minimum.  
You learn this with experience.


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Rick NK7I
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 4:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] A dumb question about lightning

Not often (enough) does a ham have a 100'+ tower either.  

THE standard (of way so many to choose from) is from the cell phone industry 
(Motorola mostly).  It's insanely complex but if you're on a mountain top and 
need 100% reliability; ideal.  The costs, will be a second mortgage so some 
compromises will have to happen.

Here is a better link to the current (newest edition) of the ARRL book; at 
least a good starting point for a baseline understanding.  Direct hits, no 
matter what system/s used, will always show what you missed or didn't do enough 
to mitigate.

https://a.co/d/01vRC1W

Another aspect is static reduction.  That comes from wind, rain, dust, snow, 
anything that passes by the structure.  Shunt all to ground OUTside the 
building is the best approach.  (Base of the tower/mast and again at structure 
entry; make EVERYTHING at the same ground potential, inside and out.  When you 
take a hit, that potential rises, equally if all is done well; it's the 
difference in potential that harms.)

73,
Rick nk7i

On 7/28/2023 2:31 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

Even the methods in that book are considered sub-standard by the broadcast 
industry...  The only think that is a sure bet is to completely disconnect your 
radio and put it back in the shipping box.


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ

email:  b...@wjschmidt.com


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 4:14 PM
To: j...@kk9a.com
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] A dumb question about lightning


https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L=DChcSEwiOk5PAqLKA
AxUjEa0GHYmDBJgYABACGgJwdg=2=www.google.com=CAASJORo_AZEA
zrEwZh7d0CRaunieFV8dsSC3IDZqsPWbucgX_uNKQ=AOD64_1qxgTjvgwY4_QbQuPW
5KxSnoObmA=2ahUKEwiEsI3AqLKAAxViAjQIHe9mC-UQ0Qx6BAgOEAE

Welcome to the Bible of grounding.   It’ll take several reads to grasp what you 
have to do.

73,
Rick NK7I



On Jul 28, 2023, at 2:11 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I would recommend that you follow proper lightning bonding/grounding
techniques, these are the only methods that work. My tower has taken
a number of lighting strikes. You cannot prevent a lightning strike.
Simply disconnecting your feedling will not prevent damage inside
your house as the voltage from a strike will be induced into your home's 
electrical wires.

John KK9A


Al Lorona W6LX wrote:


Please don't laugh at me; I'm a transplant from a region of the
country with essentially no lightning to a region where you have to
worry about it quite a bit.

We had a doozy of a storm last night, with lots of lightning overhead.
I felt like a sitting duck, even though I had grounded both sides of
the balanced feedline of the antenna, switched the antenna switch to
the middle
(grounded) position, and even disconnected the coax leading to the
K3's rear-panel antenna port.

Whenever lightning happens, I always wonder if it really is in fact
better to ground everything. Because, doesn't that essentially make a
lightning rod of the antenna? If I simply disconnected the antenna
and left it floating, wouldn't it be less likely to attract a lightning bolt?

I'm of 

Re: [Elecraft] [OT] A dumb question about lightning

2023-07-28 Thread Rick NK7I

Not often (enough) does a ham have a 100'+ tower either.  

THE standard (of way so many to choose from) is from the cell phone 
industry (Motorola mostly).  It's insanely complex but if you're on a 
mountain top and need 100% reliability; ideal.  The costs, will be a 
second mortgage so some compromises will have to happen.


Here is a better link to the current (newest edition) of the ARRL book; 
at least a good starting point for a baseline understanding.  Direct 
hits, no matter what system/s used, will always show what you missed or 
didn't do enough to mitigate.


https://a.co/d/01vRC1W

Another aspect is static reduction.  That comes from wind, rain, dust, 
snow, anything that passes by the structure.  Shunt all to ground 
OUTside the building is the best approach.  (Base of the tower/mast and 
again at structure entry; make EVERYTHING at the same ground potential, 
inside and out.  When you take a hit, that potential rises, equally if 
all is done well; it's the difference in potential that harms.)


73,
Rick nk7i

On 7/28/2023 2:31 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

Even the methods in that book are considered sub-standard by the broadcast 
industry...  The only think that is a sure bet is to completely disconnect your 
radio and put it back in the shipping box.


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ

email:  b...@wjschmidt.com


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 4:14 PM
To: j...@kk9a.com
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] A dumb question about lightning


https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L=DChcSEwiOk5PAqLKAAxUjEa0GHYmDBJgYABACGgJwdg=2=www.google.com=CAASJORo_AZEAzrEwZh7d0CRaunieFV8dsSC3IDZqsPWbucgX_uNKQ=AOD64_1qxgTjvgwY4_QbQuPW5KxSnoObmA=2ahUKEwiEsI3AqLKAAxViAjQIHe9mC-UQ0Qx6BAgOEAE

Welcome to the Bible of grounding.   It’ll take several reads to grasp what you 
have to do.

73,
Rick NK7I



On Jul 28, 2023, at 2:11 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I would recommend that you follow proper lightning bonding/grounding
techniques, these are the only methods that work. My tower has taken a
number of lighting strikes. You cannot prevent a lightning strike.
Simply disconnecting your feedling will not prevent damage inside your
house as the voltage from a strike will be induced into your home's electrical 
wires.

John KK9A


Al Lorona W6LX wrote:


Please don't laugh at me; I'm a transplant from a region of the
country with essentially no lightning to a region where you have to
worry about it quite a bit.

We had a doozy of a storm last night, with lots of lightning overhead.
I felt like a sitting duck, even though I had grounded both sides of
the balanced feedline of the antenna, switched the antenna switch to
the middle
(grounded) position, and even disconnected the coax leading to the
K3's rear-panel antenna port.

Whenever lightning happens, I always wonder if it really is in fact
better to ground everything. Because, doesn't that essentially make a
lightning rod of the antenna? If I simply disconnected the antenna and
left it floating, wouldn't it be less likely to attract a lightning bolt?

I'm of the belief that it's better to try to avoid a direct hit than
to attract one and trust your grounding system to do its thing. I'm of
the belief that no grounding system is perfectly effective.

Al  W6LX/4

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] A dumb question about lightning

2023-07-28 Thread Rick NK7I

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L=DChcSEwiOk5PAqLKAAxUjEa0GHYmDBJgYABACGgJwdg=2=www.google.com=CAASJORo_AZEAzrEwZh7d0CRaunieFV8dsSC3IDZqsPWbucgX_uNKQ=AOD64_1qxgTjvgwY4_QbQuPW5KxSnoObmA=2ahUKEwiEsI3AqLKAAxViAjQIHe9mC-UQ0Qx6BAgOEAE

Welcome to the Bible of grounding.   It’ll take several reads to grasp what you 
have to do. 

73,
Rick NK7I


> On Jul 28, 2023, at 2:11 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> 
> I would recommend that you follow proper lightning bonding/grounding
> techniques, these are the only methods that work. My tower has taken a
> number of lighting strikes. You cannot prevent a lightning strike. Simply
> disconnecting your feedling will not prevent damage inside your house as the
> voltage from a strike will be induced into your home's electrical wires.
> 
> John KK9A
> 
> 
> Al Lorona W6LX wrote:
> 
> 
> Please don't laugh at me; I'm a transplant from a region of the country with
> essentially no lightning to a region where you have to worry about it quite
> a bit.
> 
> We had a doozy of a storm last night, with lots of lightning overhead. I
> felt like a sitting duck, even though I had grounded both sides of the
> balanced feedline of the antenna, switched the antenna switch to the middle
> (grounded) position, and even disconnected the coax leading to the K3's
> rear-panel antenna port.
> 
> Whenever lightning happens, I always wonder if it really is in fact better
> to ground everything. Because, doesn't that essentially make a lightning rod
> of the antenna? If I simply disconnected the antenna and left it floating,
> wouldn't it be less likely to attract a lightning bolt?
> 
> I'm of the belief that it's better to try to avoid a direct hit than to
> attract one and trust your grounding system to do its thing. I'm of the
> belief that no grounding system is perfectly effective.
> 
> Al  W6LX/4
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power-hunting on FT8

2023-07-23 Thread Rick NK7I
That the K3 and K4 are clean transmitters (for a 12V final) is awesome for 
everyone on the air.  Elecraft sets the bar again.

But the highly popular JT modes are not the only audio based digital modes used 
these days.  Others are more complex than one continuous phase shifted tone.

With that in mind, there is no reason that comes to mind, why (no matter the 
brand) operators should not set their audio input for max UP TO where ALC 
begins, so that any audio based digital mode stays clean; the transmitter is 
given precisely what it needs to produce output without hunting or ‘coming up 
to power’.

When I select 28 watts, it means I want and expect 28 watts on EVERY 
transmission, EVERY time IMMEDIATELY (to drive an amp where the differences 
become significant).

Anything else, is just sloppy operating and there is already ample numbers of 
sloppy stations.  We can each do our part to not be another (no matter the 
mode).

73,
Rick NK7I

> On Jul 23, 2023, at 7:23 AM, M Cresap via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
>  I have been running tests on K3s and K4s to understand the conditions 
> needed to transmit clean FT8 signals. I have previously shared some of my 
> findings with Pete N4ZR and a couple of other folks. Their feedback has been 
> very valuable.
> 
> Joe Taylor, K1JT has shown the spectral purity of the FT4 and FT8 protocols 
> (using WSJT-X version 2.1 and later) to be very clean to 80 dB below the peak 
> signal. See https://wsjt.sourceforge.io/FT4_FT8_QEX.pdf (Figure 3 and related 
> discussion on pages 9 and 10)  and 
> https://www.w2zq.com/wsjt-x-innards-explained-by-joe-taylor-k1jt/ (slide 
> entitled Spectra: RTTY, FT8, FT4). If the WSJT-X operating instructions are 
> followed (use operating mode "Fake-It" or "Split"), there is exactly one 
> clean signal to be transmitted as discussed in the exchanges in this thread 
> https://groups.io/g/Elecraft-K4/message/25371
> I have been endeavoring to ensure that ALL of the FT4 and FT8 spectra purity 
> shown by Joe Taylor can be replicated by my K3 and K4D in the Data A mode - 
> and that the recipe for a clean spectra can be shared with others. Clean FT8 
> spectra is badly needed, especially in metro areas at 10 meters and above, 
> where many poor quality FT8 signals abound and wipe out many of the weaker 
> stations that other stations are trying to receive. Yes, there are 
> suggestions that folks in the same area all transmit at the same time, and 
> many people try it, but in practice, not everyone is on-board with that 
> suggestion. But, there are also stations on the air that transmit very clean 
> FT8 signals every day, so it can be done!
> I shared with Pete that neither my K3 or K4 transmitted the cleanest possible 
> FT8 signal using either analog or USB digital inputs and the conventional 
> setup instructions that have been often repeated on this reflector (i.e. set 
> the audio level so there are 4/5 bars of ALC showing). After I beefed up my 
> DC power cable (it is now 2 feet of #10 wire between the K3 and the power 
> supply), I found that setting the Line In level to the point just before the 
> 1st ALC bar lights up (i.e. Line In = 2 in my case) results in a very clean 
> FT8 signal. As Pete reported, there is a slow increase of RF power output 
> level for 10-20 seconds as the ALC circuit compensates for the lower input 
> level, but apparently the ALC loop remains open, hence the clean signal. 
> 
> For my K4, the FT8 signal is clean with no more than 2 bars of ALC.
> To be clear, the spurious responses I have seen with ALC set to 5 bars has NO 
> measurable IMD responses. There is only the one strong signal present, the 
> spurious signals being discussed here are all less than 50 or 60 dB below the 
> intended carrier level. My goal is to reduce all the spurious responses to 80 
> dB below the intended carrier level.
> 
> The discussion that Pete, N4ZR started several days ago got many responses 
> that could be grouped into three categories:
> 
> 1. "The manufacturer says use 5 bars of ALC, end of story". I don't buy that 
> at all. I have yet to see any manufacturer's DATA on the relationship between 
> their transmit ALC levels (or any other metric) and the in-band spectral 
> purity of an FT8 like signal beyond "meets  FCC spurious signal 
> requirements". 
> 
> 2. "I must be mistaken, my equipment is overloaded, etc". In years past, that 
> would have been a fair criticism, it would have taken hundreds of thousands 
> of $$ worth of calibrated test equipment to prove whether anyone's receiver 
> was overloaded or not. With today's high end receivers (the K4 being one of 
> them), the overload point in every gain state is well known (notably 
> confirmed and publicized by NC0I, Rob Sherwood)

Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power-hunting on FT8

2023-07-20 Thread Rick NK7I
Pete,
I would suspect that the local ham didn’t account for you overdriving his 
receiver (or test set) which would explain why an underdriven signal appeared 
cleaner (no overload).  Had he attenuated your 4 bar signal, it would have been 
clean, I’m 100% certain.

A full audio supplied (just shy of ALC) K3  is clean.  I’ve had mine monitored 
several times with real test equipment, to make sure before I trusted it at QRO 
levels (and checked again in case there was an RFI distortion).  On some radios 
harmonics will appear, but they are internal to the radio, not really on the 
air (overdrive distortion).

It will remain as clean as the audio, up to the point the ALC begins to kick 
in; then it goes bad like any other radio.  That’s the fault of ALC, not the 
radio.

I DX, it’s about the only thing I do on ham radio.  Most of the time at legal 
limit with a high gain antenna (helps to be LOUD, get heard, make the contact, 
fight less) and over the past several years FT8 has been the mode of choice by 
DX teams (limited staff, fast, one op can work 2-3 bands at a time, efficient 
and dreadfully boring).  Had there been an issue, I would have heard about it 
by now; my station is one of several hundred potent signals on the band.

But, you have your answer why it’s hunting power and can choose to operate as 
you see fit as long as you remember that the K3 will try to ‘pull’ more audio 
in order to obtain the power setting, which may be that it pulls in sounds and 
noises (power supply, signals on other sound card or rig noises) not normally 
heard (and looks poor on the output as a result).

My suggestion:  As stated prior for the how, 4 bars of audio drive with the 5th 
barely flickering (WSJT-X at max) and leave it all alone.  Using audio drive on 
a modern rig as an RF output control is misusing the rig and clutters up the 
air.  Leave the ‘power setting’ on WSJT-X at MAX; recheck the collections of 
settings periodically (and ALWAYS after a Windows update, they often do NASTY 
things to audio and USB port settings).

The WSJT-X control is akin to reducing receive signal levels by trimming feet 
of antenna off, instead of using the RF gain control.  It has the same results 
but it’s just not the correct method.

If you do this, you’ll find that the clean output at the power you actually set 
the radio for, will allow other DXCC conclusions in very short order (because 
you’re loud and clean).

The choice is yours.

73,
Rick NK7I

> On Jul 20, 2023, at 7:33 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:
> 
> OK guys - rather than reply individually, let me try to pull everything 
> together in one message.
> 
> In a previous effort at FT8 I followed the standard advice to set the power 
> slider in WSJT-X (on the lower RIGHT side) so that my K-3 showed 4 bars on 
> the ALC meter, just below the threshold for ALC starting, and that seemed to 
> work fine.  Then a technically-qualified local ham showed me spectrum 
> analyzer images of a K-3 at 4 bars versus at no bars, and the difference was 
> startling - the no bars signal was clean and narrow, while the 4-bars signal 
> looked like some of those SSB sigs we hear during contests, wide and with 
> many artifacts.  I am not going to identify my source here, but I'm fairly 
> sure he reads this reflector, so maybe he'll join the discussion
> 
> Anyway, I'm kind of at sea - WSJT-X works fine with no bars - I've finished 
> 12 and 17M, as well as digital DXCC in the last few weeks, following his 
> advice.  But the hunting typically takes almost 20 seconds of transmitting - 
> roughly 1 1/2 FT-8 cycles - to reach full power - and happens every time I 
> change bands, which puts me behind the curve if I switch bands, see someone I 
> need, and have to spend 1 1/2 transmit cycles getting up to full power before 
> I can call him effectively.
> 
> 73, Pete N4ZR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power-hunting on FT8

2023-07-20 Thread Rick NK7I
Hi Jim,

Maybe you’d feel better knowing that with WSJT-X at max; I had always adjusted 
the OS driver level plus the rig levels, starting mid range on both.  And from 
midway, find the right blend to get the level to be proper with neither control 
at (or near) max so nobody shouts and no one strains to hear.

That method has worked well for me, for many years now.  With that added 
background, I stand by what I said.  Set it to MAX and forget it. 

Adding more display controls opens the door to added confusion with poor 
signals by those who do not know what they’re doing in the first place.  
Eliminating the “power control” would be a step in the right direction; it only 
adds confusion, misunderstanding and poor signals.  Audio level tweaking to 
adjust RF output is a poor method [on a modern radio].

Using the right controls (driver out —> rig input), as they were designed to be 
used is enough, adding more just mungs things up.

So I suspect we actually agree.

73,
Rick NK7I

> On Jul 20, 2023, at 3:42 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 7/20/2023 2:47 PM, Rick NK7I wrote:
>> s said MANY times, set the WSJT-X output to MAX, then IGNORE IT.
> 
> Hi Rick,
> 
> This is the only part of your excellent advice that I disagree with. The 
> reason is that the analog stages of computer gear tend to be poor, and start 
> generating increased distortion well below clip. My advice is to run analog 
> outputs of computer gear 6 dB below clip.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power-hunting on FT8

2023-07-20 Thread Rick NK7I
Whomever K3 user told you to EVER use the output control other than MAX at ALL 
TIMES needs to go back to learning.  They are NOT helping you.

The WSJT-X output control is an AUDIO control, not an RF output control.
On any rig made since 1985, one wants to adjust the RF for RF and the audio for 
audio.

As said MANY times, set the WSJT-X output to MAX, then IGNORE IT.  FOREVER.  It 
is one stupid flaw in an otherwise brilliant application.  Audio drive is NOT 
the way to manage RF output on any modern radio.

Then adjust the audio during transmit (test mode) to 4 bars on the ALC, “just” 
tickling the 5th bar.  That is the place that the K3 ALC begins.  [If you 
undershoot the audio level, the K3 still attempts to reach that power output, 
but the results may not be pleasing to others on the air.]

Now when you send, the K3 will put out the power you choose and the signal will 
be clean and stable.

You set the output power with the RF output control, not a garage door opener.  
Right tool, right job.

It’s REALLY frustrating to see this reappearing EVERY year; the K3 is not a JA 
radio, it manages things differently and generally better.  One would think 
that after so many years the misinformation would fade out.

So now YOU know how to set the audio on the K3 and will be cleaner than those 
who attempted to mislead you with false information.

This method holds true on ANY audio based digital mode (like AFSK, PSK…).

73,
Rick NK7I

> On Jul 20, 2023, at 2:17 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:
> 
> I've recently started operating FT8, and on advice from other K3 users, have 
> been adjusting the power slider in WSJT-X to a level just short of or just 
> into the first flickers of ALC.  I did this because I was advised that 
> setting the slider for 4 or 5 bars of ALC generated junk in the FT8 passband. 
>  I am running the K3 in Data A mode
> 
> Since I did this, I've noticed strange (to me, anyway) behavior from my K3.  
> When WSJT-X starts an FT8 transmit cycle, after I have just switched to the 
> current band or changed the power slider in WSJT-X or the PWR control on my 
> K-3, the K3's power output starts essentially at zero and slowly ramps up 
> through 1- 1 1/2 FT8 transmit cycles.  Once it reaches the expected level, 
> subsequent transmissions stay at that level.
> 
> I've been told (not by Elecraft) that this behavior is a result of the K3's 
> firmware "hunting" for the right power level, but such a slow and repetitious 
> behavior doesn't fit with the rest of what I've come to expect from my K3.  
> It doesn't happen on CW or SSB either. So what's going on?
> 
> -- 
> 73, Pete N4ZR
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for WSJT-X Rig Control advice

2023-02-24 Thread Rick NK7I
I politely and firmly, disagree.  It's too prone to operator error and 
sending cruft that doesn't belong on the air.


A SECOND internal card for radio, fine.  The only one; bad plan.

Rick nk7i


On 2/24/2023 3:22 PM, Wes wrote:
There is nothing wrong with using the internal sound card for digital 
modes.


Wes  N7WS

On 2/24/2023 1:58 PM, Rick NK7I wrote:


And ranks right up there with folks using the OS sound card, instead 
of a second card for radio use for obnoxious behavior.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Looking for WSJT-X Rig Control advice

2023-02-24 Thread Rick NK7I



On 2/24/2023 12:46 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:

If you cannot, or will not, use CAT with real or fake split please do not transmit with 
DF less than 1,500 Hz.   I have far too many FT8 harmonics examples in my "horror 
signals" library.

Andy, k3wyc



And ranks right up there with folks using the OS sound card, instead of 
a second card for radio use for obnoxious behavior.


One can hear voice, music, ambient audio (all illegal) along with the 
tones (ALL of which diminishes the signal you WANT to send/hear).


And lack of RFI management (or other flaws) can produce a SPECTRUM of 
cruft sent, which helps no one.


If you're just starting out (and on occasion) ASK a neighbor to look at 
your signal to make sure it's as you need it to be.


73,
Rick nk7i

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Re: [Elecraft] Checking out Elecraft on ChatGPT

2023-02-17 Thread Rick NK7I
The old CW traffic handler gag was "Having a great time.  Wish you were 
her(e)" with the final dit, missed.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 2/17/2023 12:50 PM, Dale Boresz wrote:

Unfortunately, there are a lot of missing spaces on the CW bands too.

73,
Dale - WA8SRA

On Fri, Feb 17, 2023 at 2:49 PM Dave New, N8SBE  wrote:


Alan,

For starters where are all the spaces? :-)  Makes it hard to read,
that's for sure.

...
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Re: [Elecraft] arrl.net domain is being blocked!

2023-01-23 Thread Rick NK7I
It also won’t forward if the from address is the same as it is supposed to 
forward to; so use a second account for testing.

73,
Rick NK7I

> On Jan 23, 2023, at 4:15 PM, Andrew Moore  wrote:
> 
> Note that many email clients can be configured with a custom "reply-to"
> address - using your @arrl.net address there is still fair game, and will
> cause "reply" function to send it to you @arrl.net.
> 
> 73,
> NV1B
> ..
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jan 23, 2023 at 4:56 PM Dave New  wrote:
>> 
>> Thought I'd follow up on the list with the information I received from the
>> mailman.qth.net support:
>> 
>> Hi Dave.  ARRL has published something called an 'SPF record' which
>> specifies what SMTP servers are allowed to use arrl.net as a FROM address.
>> This effectively stops the ability for anyone to send out emails using @
>> arrl.net as their FROM address.  You can receive mail, but you can no
>> longer send out email using that as your email address.  You will want to
>> quickly change your email program so it no longer uses @arrl.net as your
>> FROM address, as servers worldwide will stop receiving those emails (they
>> will either reject them, or simply discard them, or put them in a spam
>> folder -- either way, your emails aren't going to get through to most
>> folks)
>> 
>> While this was ARRL's decision, it is the correct one.  GMail has stopped
>> taking mail from any domain that has no SPF record, so ARRL was forced into
>> this.  And, by the way, the ARRL never promoted or even said you could use
>> @
>> arrl.net as your FROM address. It has always been marketed as a free email
>> forwarding service.
>> 
>> Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it is what it is.  Nobody can fix
>> this.  Stop using @arrl.net as your FROM address as soon as possible.
>> 
>> - Scott KA9FOX
>> 
>> 73,
>> -- Dave, N8SBE
>> 
>>> On Sun, Jan 22, 2023 at 4:36 PM Dave New  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I've had several emails blocked from my 'normal' email address I use for
>>> ham-radio related emails, n8...@arrl.net.
>>> 
>>> According to the email bounce messages I received, all email from
>> arrl.net
>>> is being blocked.
>>> 
>>> I've sent an email to ke...@elecraft.com, who is listed as this email
>>> list administrator, but he may not see this right away, as this is a
>> Sunday.
>>> 
>>> Does anyone else on the list know who to contact?
>>> 
>>> In the meantime, I've had to subscribe with a gmail address (which is
>>> ironic, since the vast majority of SPAM on the Internet comes from that
>>> domain), so I can post the 80M SSB Net Announcement for this evening.
>> Hope
>>> to see you all there.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> -- Dave, N8SBE
>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & K3S Options Last Time Buy Update, (12/02/2022)

2022-12-05 Thread Rick NK7I
While this article is for the K4, the exact same should be done for the 
K3 to stop accidental keying during boot up of the OS.


I suggest that you do this for ALL of your USB ports and while you're 
there, also defeat (turn off, uncheck) power savings mode (once turned 
off, it won't restart until the next reboot, negating it's value to less 
than zero), again on ALL of your USB devices (hubs, ports etc).


73,
Rick nk7i


Use Windows Device Manager (run devmgmt.msc) to change the Advanced 
properties of both of the K4 FTDI virtual serial ports: Uncheck Serial 
Enumeration Check Disable Modem Control At Startup Details and rationale 
here, with screenshots: https://bit.ly/FTDItip




On 12/5/2022 10:53 AM, Dave New, N8SBE wrote:

Ed,

Likely the 'clicking' you are hearing is the PC initializing the USB 
ports on boot up.
If you watch closely, you will see the K3 PTT/XMIT come on a few times 
during the computer boot up.


It's harmless, but annoying, although if I recall correctly, on CW it 
actually ends up sending a carrier.


There was a firmware update for the K3/K3S that makes it ignore those 
computer PTT by leaving the VOX turned
off on CW until you transmit something (not from the computer). This 
happens if you power cycle

the K3 before turning on the computer.

Of course, you could just turn off the K3 and leave it off until the 
computer finishes booting.


I don't have an explanation as to why moving the USB cable to the 
front ports seemingly has
stopped the issue.  Perhaps you just didn't happen to trigger the 
issue (see above)?


Hope that helps,

-- Dave, N8SBE

On 2022-12-04 16:24, Ed Cole wrote:

Nice to hear about.

I contacted sales@elecraft regarding getting on the KI03B list (more
than a year ago) and was told, at that time I would be added.

I have the KI03A (original with my K3) which Elecraft repaired about
two years ago and has worked well, so far.  I decided I should have a
backup so ordered the B board (A NLA).

But not being one of the original list, but an add-on, I wonder if
inventory will be sufficient to fill my order?

I encountered a strange phenomena, as the K3 would constantly click
whenever the computer I/F cable (from Elecraft) was connected and
computer turned on.  I have 4 USB ports on rear of computer and 2 on
front.  Moving to a front USB connector ceased the clicking. BTW the
clicking appears not to affect the K3 operation (port uses Com5).

I use my K3 on FT8 and for eme (JT65 or Q65), so very important the
computer I/F works correctly. B version uses direct USB/USB interface
so might not be an issue.

73, Ed - KL7UW

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Shifting Bands without any change in K3 Frequency

2022-11-14 Thread Rick NK7I
Have you tried putting the KAT500 into MAN mode (not bypass or AUTO)?  
Once trained for bands (memory loaded), MAN is the best way to use the 
tuner.  It'll recall the tuning combination but won't go into auto-retune.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/14/2022 6:00 PM, Joe Rogers wrote:

I am operating the KPA500 KAT500 power combo with the K3.  The combination 
works great and normally makes frequency and antenna changes really simple.  I 
operate on MARS frequencies and normally all works just fine outside of all the 
amateur bands with the KPA500/KAT500/K3 there is, however, one frequency where 
there is an issue.
When transmitting at about 4.5 MHz using SSB or digital modes, using the 
KPA500/KAT500/K3 combination, the band indication shoes the KPA500 spuriously 
shifting back and forth between 3.5 and 5.3 MHz bands.  This also affects the 
amplifier output power. I can also hear what sounds like contact/relay cycling. 
  This makes the combo unusable on this frequency.
How can I resolve this problem so that the KPA500 is usable on this frequency?
73
Joe AJ1Y
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Voltage?

2022-11-14 Thread Rick NK7I
Aluminum was legal at one point, as I recall it was the 80's (copper 
prices were obscene).  It was an expensive mistake to allow aluminum wiring.


I attended some fires as a result of aluminum wire (career firefighter, 
eventually Captain).  My suspicion was that as switches and plugs were 
used, aluminum tolerated the small flexing less than copper (which 
basically self heals, molds to the connection being softer) and as it is 
exposed to air, a layer of aluminum oxide is produced (wrapping the 
internal content ) creating higher resistance.


Over time the resistance and small flexes caused arcing, that gets to a 
point that it heats; causing the excitement.


I don't have the chemistry or metallurigc background to confirm this; 
but this was the result of the cause investigation..


Adding a copper pigtail is a practical solution (cheaper than replacing 
all the wire).  Aluminum wire is not used by me, anywhere, just like the 
backstab plugs and switches (if you can't bind them down; don't use 
them).  I have seen the harm that can result and don't want to lose my 
house and possessions as I've seen others lose.


In the cost of a house or shack, copper; the small increase in cost 
reaps major benefits (and aluminum is no longer legal for new 
construction, at least when I retired).


73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/14/2022 2:25 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
When my younger brother was finally out of the house for good, Mom and 
Dad bought a double-wide, sold the house in So. Central LAX, and moved 
south into a "Mobile Estates Park" in Costa Mesa.  The wiring was Al.  
About 3 years later, they had a problem in one of the outlets that 
involved a small amount of smoke.  That wasn't a serious incident, but 
Dad had to go around to each of the switches and outlets and put Cu 
pigtails on the Al wires to connect to the devices.  I never got a 
clear story about what caused the original problem or why this would 
fix it.  But, I'm really wary of Al wiring in house in which we sleep.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

Lyn Norstad wrote on 11/14/2022 2:08 PM:

Ed -

I cringe when I think of aluminum wiring.  I know it's currently 
about half
the price of copper, but a townhouse I lived in from 1979-1982 in 
Chicago

caught fire because of aluminum wiring and copper outlets.  In fact,
statistics show that 50% of home fires are due to aluminum wiring.

Aluminum does not meet any current (pun by chance ...) building codes 
around

here.  It's all copper. Has been for at least 40 years.

If you're stuck with aluminum (and it's legal??), be sure to 
liberally apply

antioxidant where needed.

73
Lyn, WØLEN






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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Voltage?

2022-11-14 Thread Rick NK7I

Jon,

Then we disagree, I'm not brokenhearted, hi hi.  But not entirely.

Lights are now (by law in places) LED but that is a trivial load in the 
greater picture.  Older homes often struggle with appliances, which 
(conveniently) are now more efficient, using less load, BUT some are 
still substantial (electric oven, HVAC. electric dryer) in old homes.  
There are still plenty of old homes with wiring dating from the build 
date, trying to keep up with present day loads.


The general point is to be aware of the larger picture; what is being 
consumed; which circuit supplies to what item/s and most importantly:  
Is ANY circuit being used to the max, unknowingly or not?  If you're 
still using (because it runs and is paid for) an older appliance; it 
uses more energy.  Be aware, more so if you're in a 60 year old house 
(when lights and perhaps a radio station to listen to was the norm).


This time of year (in the north US at least); folks are starting to use 
portable electric heaters to augment the HVAC (I use a wood stove by 
preference, warm AND dry heat, the HVAC is the fallback plan).  House 
fires are increasing at the same rate; often caused by wiring issues 
(most often, using a power strip and failing to note the load on the 
entire circuit or the strip).  (Chimney fires are the second most cause 
this time of year.)


The real issue:  Folks don't look at what they're doing; they just keep 
plugging stuff in blithe ignorance.


Again back to the original point, the power company MAY provide 110V or 
120V or anything in between over the course of a day (most are VERY 
stable at what they provide); what the operator gets at the station 
plugs, tracks that too.


If the provider offers 110V instead of 120V (the present standard); the 
tap on the transformer will have to be changed.  If the house circuit 
struggles to provide the current; keep the tapped voltage within that 
window (and update the wiring).


What happened in central coast CA, may not be the same as BFE Texas on 
old wiring, in an old home (knob and tube still?).


If the lights dim while transmitting; you're (likely) exceeding the 
current capacity of the circuit.  (If they get brighter, you have a 
house electrical grounding situation; excluding RFI cause; a far more 
dangerous alert.)


Bottom line:  Use the tap that keeps the amp within the voltage span 
required.  Watch and be aware of the total house load/s, in particular 
whatever shares the amp power circuit.  Don't overload ANY of the circuits.


I think we can agree on that point.  ;-)

73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/14/2022 9:36 AM, Jon Poland wrote:
I disagree with Rick.  It is true that modern houses have more 
electric capacity.  But as homeowners shift to more efficient 
appliances and lighting, electric loads (and bills) are 
consistently dropping.  The one trend that counters that though is 
that modern homes (at least in the US) are consistently larger than 
their older counterparts and require more energy to keep comfortable.  
That trend does not explain voltage drops though.


My 12 year old house has 200 amp service.  I don't know why.  But 
since building it, we have shifted to 90+% LED lighting, high 
efficiency dishwasher, fridge, and clothes washer.  My entire lighting 
load at any given time is less than 120W.  A smart thermostat reduces 
AC and furnace loads. The 2 largest electrical loads are the clothes 
dryer and gas furnace blower.  This house is also better insulated 
than any home I have ever owned - also reducing the furnace load (gas 
and electricity).


Curiously, the next largest load in many homes are the TV's turned on 
in every bedroom... (But their heat reduces the amount of time the 
furnace needs to run.)


Of course, if you have an electric car charger the picture changes 
drastically...  But that is still a small percentage of US homes today.


jon  N0WL

On Mon, Nov 14, 2022 at 11:10 AM Rick Bates, NK7I 
 wrote:


Too high at THEIR location.

Power company feeds, vary (not a lot but their load changes, they
adjust).

House wiring varies and other devices on that circuit can cause other
variations too.  Older homes (1950's and older) often have less
capacity
than newer homes (didn't need it then).  Today we use a LOT more
energy
than then; some house circuits are no longer 'adequate' (causing
fires
in some cases because folks abuse the wiring in ignorance).

Part of station set up and operations, is knowing what the
circuit(s) of
the house wiring, is connected to besides the station. Fridge,
washer,
HVAC, electric oven shared with the station?

If you need one more tap to get within the right voltage window,
use one
more tap to achieve that.  If you change circuits, remeasure. And
if on
the same circuit, maybe don't run the washing machine or oven at the
same time as the amp. ;-)

73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/14/2022 6:38 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote

Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Voltage?

2022-11-12 Thread Rick NK7I

I'd move it up one tap as long as it does NOT EXCEED 85V at receive.

Higher voltage not only gives you better output but also cleaner.  That 
matters too.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 11/12/2022 10:25 AM, Gordon LaPoint wrote:

My KPA500 is showing 57-58 VDC at 450-500 watts out, and 71-72 VDC on rx.

Is this normal or should I move up one tap?

Thanks,

Gordon - N1MGO


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Re: [Elecraft] Recommendation for Microphone for K3s?

2022-11-01 Thread Rick NK7I
Yes. $60

Yamaha CM500 Closed-back Broadcast Headset with Boom Mic https://a.co/d/7c5F962

73,
Rick NK7I


> On Nov 1, 2022, at 9:56 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> 
> Is the Yamaha CM500 still being manufactured?
> 
> John KK9A
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Re: [Elecraft] Recommendation for Microphone for K3s?

2022-11-01 Thread Rick NK7I
Heil are overpriced and the headsets, give headaches too (too tight).  
They're nothing special; you can dial in equalization just as well in 
the K3S.  I bought the Heil with my K3 and quickly gave up on them.


The Yamaha CM500 plugs into the rear (with bias) and the headphones are 
comfy for hours, without spending a lot (by comparison, you can get a 
few for the cost of one Heil).  They block most of the noise in my 
shack.  I keep a couple spares as the foam covers do wear out.


If you need to block of lot of shack noise, there are other options, 
most are expensive.


A search of the archives is recommended, this topic has been covered 
many times before.


73,
Rick nk7i

On 11/1/2022 2:39 PM, Clark Macaulay wrote:

Hi, Bernie.

Like you, I am a CW op that dabbles in FT8.  About a year ago I decided to
dabble in SSB just to hear an operator's voice in QSO parties and the like.
For my K3, I use the Heil ProSET K2 sold by Elecraft and am very pleased
with it.  I chose a headset/mic only because I don't have the space for a
desktop or
boom mic.  The connections are to the rear panel of the K3 making for a
very clean setup.  After setting the equalization levels others have
recommended, I'm told
my audio is very good.



On Tue, Nov 1, 2022 at 5:13 PM Bernie and Cheryl 
wrote:


Dear Folks:

Although I'm primarily a CW op, and dabble in FT8 (sadly, sometimes
there's no one on anywhere else except for FT8), I'm thinking about
expanding my SSB presence on the bands.  I have a K3s and would be
interested if anyone has a specific recommendation for a good
microphone?  I'm thinking about one of the Heil microphones (either the
Heil Gold or the Heil HM-10XD) but am willing to look at anything else
someone may recommend.

Thanks and 73 de Bernie, KF0QS

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Re: [Elecraft] communications on KX2 Mic's (MH3)

2022-10-08 Thread Rick NK7I

As a side reference

I waited for the KAT500, patiently, for months.

I waited for the KPA500, patiently, for months.

I waited for the KPA1500, patiently, over a year (prepaid in full).

I waited for the K4D, patiently, 18 months (prepaid in full).

I didn't once ask for an update or cancel an order or ask for a refund, 
didn't once whine when it wasn't there yet and was happy when it showed up.


I wasn't happy with the delay, but understood the reasons BECAUSE of the 
lists.  They posted JUST as often as now, though not on every list at 
the same time.  I track most of the lists, to learn of the other 
products too, even if I don't have them because they are interesting 
products.


I was patient, you can be too.  It really is THAT simple. They've posted 
the delay causes and they can't ship what they don't have.  Unbecoming 
comments do not help anything and should be directed AT those responsible.


Rick nk7i



On 10/8/2022 11:40 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


Wow.



On 10/8/2022 11:35 AM, Rick NK7I wrote:

You're whining, nothing more.  It's unbecoming.

Pay attention to the lists; or not at your own risk.

Rick nk7i


On 10/8/2022 11:22 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


That's ridiculous.  Any company that had your attitude would be out 
of business.  No way should anyone have to keep track of emails on a 
listserver to know where their order stands.  I can't even believe 
you would think it so.


Wayne has plenty of time to post regular updates on his personal ham 
radio operations, but not enough to make sure his customers have 
someone sending them regular updates on orders they have paid for 
months earlier?  This isn't about supply chain problems.  This is 
about Elecraft's basic responsibility to keep paid customers 
informed.  "Personal hand holding" is what Elecraft used to be known 
for, and it's no longer valid for them to blame the lack of it on 
fires and supply chain issues.


Several years ago out of pure curiosity I did a survey of over 2,000 
more or less randomly chosen reviews on eHam.  Almost ALL of the 
ratings of 1 of 2 (out of 5) were for poor responsiveness and 
customer service.  Not product features, not product cost, and not 
reliability ... but for bad communication and apparent lack of care.


Dave  AB7E

owner of a K1, K3, and KX2


On 10/8/2022 8:54 AM, Rick NK7I wrote:

This is well beyond tiresome now.

They HAVE stated the situation via email, to the group(s) 
recently.  Lack of attention by the reader/s is NOT their fault. 
They won't take the time for personal hand holding, that time is 
better spent assembling and shipping what product they can move.


They can't sell what they can't get.  The last order THEY got was 
sub-standard, sent back to await a new shipment (a few weeks ago).


ALL shipments of ANY type have been tediously slow, worldwide. A 
month setback creates a year of backlog; the entire world was shut 
down for over 2 YEARS.  It will take a decade or more to get back 
on track as we know it.  Normal doesn't exist anymore.


If you NEED a mic, get another until the one you want (and ordered 
and paid for) is eventually available.


The rest, is noise and whining, showing complete lack of 
understanding and patience.  Let's END this thread.



73,
Rick nk7i


On 10/8/2022 8:22 AM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:
Dave/AB7E seems to understand the point 100% correctly and a lot 
of you are

twisting my (and others) words.


The point is not that I don't have a microphone or that I couldn't 
cobble

together a connector for from another brand of mic.

I could even (I suppose) find an alternate on Amazon or somewhere 
(should I

have to buy another mic?)


The point is, almost a year ago I purchased a KX2-shack-in-a-box 
kit and it
came without a mic (it was purchased and paid for as part of that 
kit) and I
had to inform Elecraft once it arrived that I was shorted a mic.) 
Nothing in
the paperwork nor any communication before it arrived stated it 
would be

arriving w/o a MH3 mic, so this was a surprise.

   I even have an email from Wayne from January 10th,2022 that 
states (in

part) ".We should have MH3s back in stock in several weeks. Will that
suffice?..."


It's a long way from early December 2021 when I finally was 
invoiced (after
I submitted my purchase request in October or November) 2021 and 
finally
paid for my KX2 shack-in-a-box kit (which I love by the way_) (or 
even Jan

10th, 2021_)


All I am saying is..there has been zero communication like "we 
know we owe
you a microphone and when we get them you'll be on the top of the 
list when

we get them.) ZERO.


All I have is a couple (now very old) emails from Wayne from early 
January
that "it must have be an oversight" (which I accept; Hey - 
nobody's or any

company is perfect) I get it.


I accept the oversight.  I accept the backorder.  I check the 
Elecraft site
for shipping status.  I know they don't have them. I deal with 
electronic

parts and service over 11

Re: [Elecraft] communications on KX2 Mic's (MH3)

2022-10-08 Thread Rick NK7I

You're whining, nothing more.  It's unbecoming.

Pay attention to the lists; or not at your own risk.

Rick nk7i


On 10/8/2022 11:22 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


That's ridiculous.  Any company that had your attitude would be out of 
business.  No way should anyone have to keep track of emails on a 
listserver to know where their order stands.  I can't even believe you 
would think it so.


Wayne has plenty of time to post regular updates on his personal ham 
radio operations, but not enough to make sure his customers have 
someone sending them regular updates on orders they have paid for 
months earlier?  This isn't about supply chain problems.  This is 
about Elecraft's basic responsibility to keep paid customers 
informed.  "Personal hand holding" is what Elecraft used to be known 
for, and it's no longer valid for them to blame the lack of it on 
fires and supply chain issues.


Several years ago out of pure curiosity I did a survey of over 2,000 
more or less randomly chosen reviews on eHam.  Almost ALL of the 
ratings of 1 of 2 (out of 5) were for poor responsiveness and customer 
service.  Not product features, not product cost, and not reliability 
... but for bad communication and apparent lack of care.


Dave  AB7E

owner of a K1, K3, and KX2


On 10/8/2022 8:54 AM, Rick NK7I wrote:

This is well beyond tiresome now.

They HAVE stated the situation via email, to the group(s) recently.  
Lack of attention by the reader/s is NOT their fault. They won't take 
the time for personal hand holding, that time is better spent 
assembling and shipping what product they can move.


They can't sell what they can't get.  The last order THEY got was 
sub-standard, sent back to await a new shipment (a few weeks ago).


ALL shipments of ANY type have been tediously slow, worldwide. A 
month setback creates a year of backlog; the entire world was shut 
down for over 2 YEARS.  It will take a decade or more to get back on 
track as we know it.  Normal doesn't exist anymore.


If you NEED a mic, get another until the one you want (and ordered 
and paid for) is eventually available.


The rest, is noise and whining, showing complete lack of 
understanding and patience.  Let's END this thread.



73,
Rick nk7i


On 10/8/2022 8:22 AM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:
Dave/AB7E seems to understand the point 100% correctly and a lot of 
you are

twisting my (and others) words.


The point is not that I don't have a microphone or that I couldn't 
cobble

together a connector for from another brand of mic.

I could even (I suppose) find an alternate on Amazon or somewhere 
(should I

have to buy another mic?)


The point is, almost a year ago I purchased a KX2-shack-in-a-box kit 
and it
came without a mic (it was purchased and paid for as part of that 
kit) and I
had to inform Elecraft once it arrived that I was shorted a mic.) 
Nothing in
the paperwork nor any communication before it arrived stated it 
would be

arriving w/o a MH3 mic, so this was a surprise.

   I even have an email from Wayne from January 10th,2022 that 
states (in

part) ".We should have MH3s back in stock in several weeks. Will that
suffice?..."


It's a long way from early December 2021 when I finally was invoiced 
(after
I submitted my purchase request in October or November) 2021 and 
finally
paid for my KX2 shack-in-a-box kit (which I love by the way_) (or 
even Jan

10th, 2021_)


All I am saying is..there has been zero communication like "we know 
we owe
you a microphone and when we get them you'll be on the top of the 
list when

we get them.) ZERO.


All I have is a couple (now very old) emails from Wayne from early 
January
that "it must have be an oversight" (which I accept; Hey - nobody's 
or any

company is perfect) I get it.


I accept the oversight.  I accept the backorder.  I check the 
Elecraft site
for shipping status.  I know they don't have them. I deal with 
electronic

parts and service over 11,000 devices as part of my everyday job.  I
communicate with my "customers"


Do I know that THEY know I am owed one?  Well, not really.  I have 
(now old)
emails from January from Wayne-that's it.  I know he has much bigger 
fish to
fry than some mic for a New Brunswicker on the other side of the 
continent.


I know it won't be Wayne that (hopefully) eventually boxes up and 
ships me a

mic. It's whoever keeps track of old, long since departed orders.


If I am going to wait nearly a year (or maybe more), it might've 
been nice

to get an email every 4-5 months from a
shipping/receiving/purchasing/billing dept staff member saying "we 
haven't

forgot about you".


As of now, myself and all others that I've been in touch with(on this
particular issue), have rec'd nothing. We don't know if:

The person boxing up the KX2 kits didn't know there was supposed to 
be a mic

included

or

They boxed up the kits anyways to get 95% of the product out the 
door to

waiting customers

or

Even if they 

Re: [Elecraft] communications on KX2 Mic's (MH3)

2022-10-08 Thread Rick NK7I

This is well beyond tiresome now.

They HAVE stated the situation via email, to the group(s) recently.  
Lack of attention by the reader/s is NOT their fault. They won't take 
the time for personal hand holding, that time is better spent assembling 
and shipping what product they can move.


They can't sell what they can't get.  The last order THEY got was 
sub-standard, sent back to await a new shipment (a few weeks ago).


ALL shipments of ANY type have been tediously slow, worldwide.  A month 
setback creates a year of backlog; the entire world was shut down for 
over 2 YEARS.  It will take a decade or more to get back on track as we 
know it.  Normal doesn't exist anymore.


If you NEED a mic, get another until the one you want (and ordered and 
paid for) is eventually available.


The rest, is noise and whining, showing complete lack of understanding 
and patience.  Let's END this thread.



73,
Rick nk7i


On 10/8/2022 8:22 AM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:

Dave/AB7E seems to understand the point 100% correctly and a lot of you are
twisting my (and others) words.

  


The point is not that I don't have a microphone or that I couldn't cobble
together a connector for from another brand of mic.

I could even (I suppose) find an alternate on Amazon or somewhere (should I
have to buy another mic?)

  


The point is, almost a year ago I purchased a KX2-shack-in-a-box kit and it
came without a mic (it was purchased and paid for as part of that kit) and I
had to inform Elecraft once it arrived that I was shorted a mic.) Nothing in
the paperwork nor any communication before it arrived stated it would be
arriving w/o a MH3 mic, so this was a surprise.

   I even have an email from Wayne from January 10th,2022 that states (in
part) ".We should have MH3s back in stock in several weeks. Will that
suffice?..."

  


It's a long way from early December 2021 when I finally was invoiced (after
I submitted my purchase request in October or November) 2021 and finally
paid for my KX2 shack-in-a-box kit (which I love by the way_) (or even Jan
10th, 2021_)

  


All I am saying is..there has been zero communication like "we know we owe
you a microphone and when we get them you'll be on the top of the list when
we get them.) ZERO.

  


All I have is a couple (now very old) emails from Wayne from early January
that "it must have be an oversight" (which I accept; Hey - nobody's or any
company is perfect) I get it.

  


I accept the oversight.  I accept the backorder.  I check the Elecraft site
for shipping status.  I know they don't have them. I deal with electronic
parts and service over 11,000 devices as part of my everyday job.  I
communicate with my "customers"

  


Do I know that THEY know I am owed one?  Well, not really.  I have (now old)
emails from January from Wayne-that's it.  I know he has much bigger fish to
fry than some mic for a New Brunswicker on the other side of the continent.

I know it won't be Wayne that (hopefully) eventually boxes up and ships me a
mic. It's whoever keeps track of old, long since departed orders.

  


If I am going to wait nearly a year (or maybe more), it might've been nice
to get an email every 4-5 months from a
shipping/receiving/purchasing/billing dept staff member saying "we haven't
forgot about you".

  


As of now, myself and all others that I've been in touch with(on this
particular issue), have rec'd nothing. We don't know if:

The person boxing up the KX2 kits didn't know there was supposed to be a mic
included

or

They boxed up the kits anyways to get 95% of the product out the door to
waiting customers

or

Even if they have record of the folks who have complete kits vs kits missing
mics.

or

Something else.

  


We just don't know.

  


Communications have been non existent from the shipping dept (ever) and none
since Jan 10th . 2021 (from Wayne himself, who seems quite knowledgeable and
friendly btw)

  


Sincerely,

  


Mike VE9AA

Oh, and lest anyone think I am mad. No , I am not mad.  Overall I am very
happy with my $10k+ worth of Elecraft products.

It just doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling to maybe order a K4HD (or two
for SO2R) when the time comes.

==

That isn't the point at all, it isn't what I said, and you know it.   I
simply believe that the folks who have paid for stuff many months ago should
be kept regularly informed ... directly, not via word of mouth.  It's not
expensive for Elecraft to do so.  They just have to care a bit more.  They
know exactly what the status of everything is at any point in time.

  


Dave   AB7E

  

  


On 10/7/2022 12:43 PM, Richard Hill wrote:

I understood that ordered microphone parts were substandard when delivered
and new parts had to be sourced, delaying production.

  


Would you have preferred they delayed shipping the shack in a box until the
mics were available?

  


NU6T

  

  


On Fri, Oct 7, 2022, 12:12 PM David Gilbert  wrote:

  

  



Re: [Elecraft] Now: communications; Was: KPA1500 Amplifiers are now shipping from Stock

2022-10-07 Thread Rick NK7I

It would be in the archives.

Search for Eric, I'm pretty sure he was the one to write the post, no 
clue what the header (topic) was.  He's not a prolific writer (of email, 
hi hi) so the search shouldn't take long.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 10/7/2022 6:53 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I guess I have not been paying attention to the list and I missed this
official update. Do you have a link to this post? I just searched the
archives and can only find the May 2, 2022 post by WA6HHQ that was in my
link below.

John KK9A


Rick NK7I wrote:

Then you haven't paid attention to this list.  The last comment from
Elecraft was a couple weeks ago on this very topic.  Some parts are in,
others are not; it's SLOWLY coming together for the build.

Although in fairness, it might have been under a header that didn't show
the actual content, like this one, now changed.

73,
Rick nk7i


On 10/7/2022 11:35 AM, john at kk9a.com wrote:

The last update was 21 1/2 weeks ago:
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2022-May/289523.html  According

to

that post everyone in groups 1 through 4 should have received their

product

by now.  I am still waiting.

John KK9A

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[Elecraft] Now: communications; Was: KPA1500 Amplifiers are now shipping from Stock

2022-10-07 Thread Rick NK7I
Then you haven't paid attention to this list.  The last comment from 
Elecraft was a couple weeks ago on this very topic.  Some parts are in, 
others are not; it's SLOWLY coming together for the build.


Although in fairness, it might have been under a header that didn't show 
the actual content, like this one, now changed.


73,
Rick nk7i


On 10/7/2022 11:35 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

The last update was 21 1/2 weeks ago:
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2022-May/289523.html  According to
that post everyone in groups 1 through 4 should have received their product
by now.  I am still waiting.

John KK9A


n6lrv wrote:

Thank Eric. How about an update on the K3 upgrade kits? It's been quite a
while since your last update on that subject.

73,
Gary

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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day and FT-8

2022-06-26 Thread Rick NK7I

Hi Bob,

That almost has to be your set up (which radio?) to see so many issues;  
over driven rx signal and/or audio levels, and/or the NB on with a harsh 
setting.


I watched a little on HF over FD and didn't see any issues other than 
crowding more than usual (40 looked like 20).  There is the occasional 
errant user but they don't make contacts either, thankfully so they 
don't hang out long.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 6/26/2022 12:26 PM, Bob McGraw wrote:



I operated FD from here at the house this weekend.  Most all of my FT-8
contacts were on 6M.

I was appalled at the poor quality of many signals. Many show spurious
every 1 kHz to 2 kHz either side of their primary signal.  Several were
noted to be bands of noise on the order of 2 kHz to 3 kHz wide. What
gives with hams and their pride for good quality signals?   Bottom
line..this is poor operating and technical practice.  Just because
it was Field Day, that is no excuse either.  Have the masses digressed
to this level of non technical expertise?  It sure seems so.

Then I was off to 80M and 40M for a few FT-8 contacts. No different.
WOW!  This is all very disappointing.

73
Bob, K4TAX


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 reduces power as it gets warmer?

2022-06-03 Thread Rick NK7I
Yes, the KPA1500 will drop 10% of the output, as it warms up. 1500 drops 
to 1350, so you have to compensate with the drive.


I'm told this is typical of all solid state finals (my KPA500 did likewise).

If you're running the station remotely; bump up the fan speed to slow 
the drop (or wear cans).


73,
Rick NK7I

On 6/3/2022 9:22 PM, David F. Reed wrote:

I note my KPA1500 drops power at its temperature rises...

Using FT8, so a relatively high duty cycle.

Say I start at a heat sink temperature of 27 C, and 1,000 watts out; 
by the time the temperature is at 65 C, the power has dropped to 893 
watts out.


I have a couple of questions about this (not a complaint by the way):

1. Does anyone else experience this?
2. Is it normal?


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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Data Mode Questions

2022-05-06 Thread Rick NK7I
Others with more knowledge in this area can confirm/correct this but I 
try very hard to not max any audio control, ever (except the 'power' 
control on the WSJT program, max it and ignore it forevermore).


If the setting is at max when it turns from bits to actual audio, it 
would be LOUD, which is not good because it could cause splatter, 
distortion and random artifacts from the device(s) used.  Shouting, is 
rarely effective.  Too loud also dulls the listener (the app, can't hear 
the quiet stuff over the roar).


My goal is 30-70% drive from the device (radio or computer), making up 
the difference at the other end as needed (same rule, don't crank up the 
'ears' side either, you might hear more than you want).


The "trick" is balancing the not shouting and no hearing aid required 
audio in a manner that everything plays nicely together.


In the case of the Windows CODEC for my K4; the transmit (Playback, I 
renamed to CODEC to "K4 Transmit") is set at -3.7 dB and the TX | LINE 
IN (Sound card highlighted; level at 48).   This produces an ALC reading 
of BARELY under 5, any lower dips/flickers the last bar (YMMV), a very 
slight under drive.


On receive (Record, renamed "K4 Receive") the CODEC is -5.2 dB (Main RX 
| Line Out at 20) for a reading of 40-50 on the WSJT app, with no 
received signal (yes higher than the JT manual states, just make sure 
it's never driven into the red zone with loud signals).


Each of the settings in my K4 audio, are roughly half the maximum.

In this setup, nothing is beaten hard, no distortion, flat topping, 
artifacts or other issues (others watched and listened while I 
transmitted), so it's one less concern about running a clean effective 
station.  (This works for PSK/AFSK too, no changes needed.)


Which brings up one more point, ask someone knowledgeable nearby to 
actually look at on their scope and listen to your signal; trust the 
settings you chose, but verify they're working as intended.


Then operate exuberantly!

73,
Rick NK7I


On 5/6/2022 1:05 PM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:

#1 - I am guessing you are using the USB cable to PC for sound? Check Windows 
Line USB Audio CODEC and make sure level in Windows is 100. Then on radio tap 
TX and Line IN. Make sure it is set to sound card and I have my level at 32 to 
give 5 bars when I click the TUNE button in WSJT-X. I also have power slider in 
WSJT-X all the way up.

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Re: [Elecraft] IndeIdefinate support for K3s?

2022-05-02 Thread Rick NK7I
It was a business decision AFTER 15 years of SUPPORT and UPGRADES that 
no other company, in any interest, offers in any one product (no not 
even cars, they evolve each year, not the same base product).  Elecraft 
felt that they had taken it as far as they could (it has limits in 
design) and that it was time to move on. There is no more economic 
reason to continue a product with limited parts availability, BEFORE 
COVID started.


They offered, as a courtesy, not for increasing revenue, one last batch 
of modules, in hopes of getting the parts needed (and having more boards 
made etc).  Again, no one else does this on a product line 15 years old.


There is nothing 'wrong' with a K3/s, it will still continue to provide 
use for some years.  But the day of the K4 has arrived, it, like this 
thread, is time to move on.  (It's awesome by the way, easily the best 
CW rig I've ever used and the CESSB has made ALL the difference on phone.)


So instead of badgering, whining and belittling, the K3 had a great run, 
let's all move on.  Enjoy the K3 while you can and operate exuberantly!


If/when it dies, part it out so other can enjoy theirs a little longer 
and move on.  Long live the K4!


73,
Rick NK7I

On 5/2/2022 11:40 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


I still say it was purely a business decision WHEN THEY MADE IT. Yes, 
some parts might be difficult to get now, but when Elecraft offered 
the last chance buys they obviously expected to be able to source the 
necessary parts or they wouldn't have done so.  With Elecraft's 
apparently limited resources, I don't think readily available parts 
would make them change that decision.  They have simply decided to 
move on, and if my K3 fails I will look to buy my next rig from a 
different vendor that at least offers some sort of repair capability 
from certified 3rd parties in case I might be unable to repair it myself.


A modular upgradable rig isn't anything special if you can no longer 
buy modules.


Dave   AB7E


On 5/2/2022 9:01 AM, Skip Davis via Elecraft wrote:

Dave you wrote:
"Parts are obviously still available for the modules and accessories 
for which they accepted last time buy orders ... they just decided 
not to make any more after that."
Well maybe you need to re-read the post from Elecraft regarding not 
being able to obtain some of the parts for the modules. As has been 
pointed out by many manufacturers there is a worldwide parts 
procurement problem going on and many parts are now unobtainable 
which it isn’t exclusive to Elecraft.

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Service

2022-04-21 Thread Rick NK7I
Seriously mislead?  Really?  Or was it unrealistic expectations 
(depending on when you bought too).


Does the K3 meet your current and expected needs NOW, while it is 
working?  Then enjoy it.  Buy parts as you can to repair or upgrade it; 
listed weekly on most email lists; at a discount cost (for now).


There is NO reason for that to change, but your needs might.

e.g. Say in 2008 (when the K3 came out), you bought a new large screen 
LCD TV (circa $3,000 US).  Would you complain now that it doesn't have 
wifi, has no streaming, isn't in 4K and cannot be repaired?  Or would 
you relegate it to the guest room (or e-cycle) and move on?


Or a computer (those were Pentium days, barely I-x chips were 
available); or any other piece of timely technology?  They still run, 
but try adding more memory or other parts now.


The BEST cell phone I ever owned, was a Motorola 'bag phone'; no 
streaming, texting, video etc features, it was a near flawless analog 
PHONE.  Then the cell world shifted to digital and it was worthless.  
Was I mislead to buy that?


That answer is no; we should expect technology to change and adapt over 
time, eventually fading away in usefulness.  That at some point, older 
products are no longer of useful value to most of the others, except 
collectors.


If it's still useful and meets your needs, I fail to see how you were 
mislead.  You did your research, bought the product chosen while knowing 
(that throughout history) at some point it would fail and repairs are no 
longer factory supported.  It was a good run, it's still useful now, as 
that line is ending.


You can't get factory parts for my old '64 GTO anymore either, at least 
not without a 'premium' cost.  (Wish I still had it too!)


I see the end of the K3 run as an opportunity for a start up repair 
shop; just like old car buffs and OLD radio folks manage to create.  One 
door closes, another opens.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 4/21/2022 12:11 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


I bought my K3 for two reasons ... its performance and its modularity 
which promised long term support for upgrades and repair.  The 
performance is still near top notch, but I was seriously mislead on 
the long term support and if I ever buy another rig it won't be Elecraft.


73,
Dave   AB7E

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/KPA-1500 - Unexpected shift in per-band power

2022-03-30 Thread Rick NK7I
Print to (or download) the pdf version, then put that into a file space on your 
Android. 

73,
Rick NK7I


> On Mar 30, 2022, at 12:53 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 3/30/2022 12:19 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
>> I think a case can be made that when the K3 says its setting for this 
>> is"NOR", that should mean power per band.
> 
> With every new thing that comes into my life, my first action is to RTFM. I 
> am VERY frustrated that I can't do that with my Android phone, and was 
> equally frustrated 20 years ago when asked to teach a course to students 
> using Apple computers.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 on 10Meters

2022-01-25 Thread Rick NK7I
Did the KPA500 show an asterisk (*) when key down?  If not, it's not 
seeing the PTT actions (key out).


If the KAT500 is content with the match, you'll only hear one fast 
kerchunk of the relays (test, happy, shaddup).  If it's not trying, it 
may not be seeing the PTT and/or RF.  (Has the K3 transmitter been 
calibrated lately?)


Reseat all the cables and verify the settings in the KAT500 for 10 meter 
operation (antenna choice); over time some minor corrosion can appear.


And make sure that the tuning output level of the K3 is set at 10-25 
watts (and shows output too).  Mine was set at 10 watts and consistently 
worked (now I use a K4, KPA1500 and a much better antenna, no tuner needed).


If CW, was VOX on?

GL,
Rick NK7I


On 1/25/2022 2:21 PM, ncela...@scicable.com wrote:



I have a K3,KAT500 and KPA500. I had a station on 10 Meters this 
afternoon that I wanted to reach.


The KPA500 did not work on 10M as if it was in standby mode (it was 
not), the KAT500 tuner didn't  tune either the K3 showed 1.0-1 5W all 
across the 10m band but no relays clicks in the KAT500. I tested after 
this happened and both work as expected on all other bands. It has 
been years since I used 10M.  The firmware is current on all three units.


Any thoughts or ideas.

TIA

Larry NA0F
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[Elecraft] K3 ATU Problem

2021-12-08 Thread Rick NK7I
PS  When using the tuner in the KPA1500 with the K3, it gets the 10 
watts that I have as my default.  I've not tested to see if that can be 
changed to any other value.


I also attempted an ATU tune on the K3 into a dummy load, it's too fast 
for power to be displayed.  ;-)


73,
Rick NK7I





On my K3, (Tech Mode on, just for clarity):

Config | TUN PWR  is set at 10.0 watts.  If I want it set at another 
level, I turn the main VFO knob to set that level.


I just tested that into a dummy load after setting the output per above 
to 9 watts and got 9 watts out (since reset to my default, 10).


73, Merry Christmas,
Rick NK7I


On 12/8/2021 8:34 AM, Tom Boucher wrote:

*You can set TUN PWR in the K3 Config Menu to something other than 5
watts.73,DrewAF2Z*

Drew,
Page 60 of K3 Owner's Manual states: "TUN PWR Note 1: *TUN PWR* does not
pertain to *ATU TUNE, *which always uses 5 or 10 W and is internally
controlled"

Does anyone know how to change the 'internal control' to increase from 5 W
to 10 W?

73,
Tom G3OLB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ATU Problem

2021-12-08 Thread Rick NK7I

On my K3, (Tech Mode on, just for clarity):

Config | TUN PWR  is set at 10.0 watts.  If I want it set at another 
level, I turn the main VFO knob to set that level.


I just tested that into a dummy load after setting the output per above 
to 9 watts and got 9 watts out (since reset to my default, 10).


73, Merry Christmas,
Rick NK7I


On 12/8/2021 8:34 AM, Tom Boucher wrote:

*You can set TUN PWR in the K3 Config Menu to something other than 5
watts.73,DrewAF2Z*

Drew,
Page 60 of K3 Owner's Manual states: "TUN PWR Note 1: *TUN PWR* does not
pertain to *ATU TUNE, *which always uses 5 or 10 W and is internally
controlled"

Does anyone know how to change the 'internal control' to increase from 5 W
to 10 W?

73,
Tom G3OLB
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Re: [Elecraft] Rf Choke placement

2021-11-02 Thread Rick NK7I
Some folks, for esthetics usually, put chokes and resistors in only one 
direction throughout the build, which may simplify finding mistakes later, the 
numbers or color code direction is always the same.

Pretty is only relevant to the builder hi hi.  

73,
Rick NK7I

Email spiel Czech corruptions happen

> On Nov 2, 2021, at 7:50 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Those RF chokes are bi-lateral - they can be installed either way, just like 
> resistors.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 11/2/2021 10:18 AM, JAMES GUNNOE wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> Building a K2 kit.
>> Does it matter which way to install the RF chokes? I am speaking of the 
>> color coded ones that resemble resistors.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] In Line Power Pole Fuses

2021-07-21 Thread Rick NK7I
25 amp fusing isn’t a lot over overhead for a K3 with KRX3, KIO3a, P3 with the 
SVGA board and the PR6-10 preamp in play. 

It all adds up.  Use what is appropriate for your rig combination.  

73,
Rick NK7I

Email spiel Czech corruptions happen

> On Jul 21, 2021, at 10:33 PM, Ray  wrote:
> 
> 30 Amp   --- A little too High for me !
> I would use 25 Amp. 
> WA6VAB  Ray  K3
> 
> 
> From: Dave
> Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2021 7:43 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] In Line Power Pole Fuses
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am unsure what you are asking...  If you are asking about fuse values, 
> I select values a bit above the max peak current I expect.  For my K3 I
> use a 30 amp fuse.
> 
> If you are asking about voltage drop, and want to know what the K3 sees, 
> there is a built in volt meter in the K3, (see the manual), which will 
> show you the voltage at the K3, after all your fusing, and wiring.
> 
> I always take my voltage readings at full output.  I try and stay within 
> the limits Elecraft sets for voltage.  If I am running low voltage on 
> transmit, I goose the power supply slightly, staying below the max 
> voltage rating Elecraft recommends when not transmitting at full power.
> 
> The fuse(s) is/are probably not going to protect my radio-- if something 
> happens, (i.e., current draw in excess of 30 amps), the radio is 
> probably already broken.
> 
> I use the fuse to reduce runaway thermal effects, (read that as fire),
> on my power supply wiring in the event of a short to ground.  I place
> the fuse(s) as close to the power supply as my wiring will allow.
> 
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> 
>> On 7/21/21 7:18 PM, Peder Kittelson wrote:
>> I have fused my Elecraft radio equipment with inline power pole positive
>> and negative ATC car standard blade fuses.
>> I am now doing an audit of the fuses in my system to make sure they are
>> appropriate for the equipment they protect.  I realize there are internal
>> fuses in many cases, I prefer doubling my protection with inline external
>> fuses as well.
>> 
>> I have not read or heard anyone discuss the appropriate amperage ratings of
>> fuses for my equipment or equipment in general.  I would appreciate your
>> recommendations on fuse sizes for these, as well as general approaches.
>> 
>> Equipment and Specifications from Elecraft Manuals:
>> 
>> 1.  Elecraft K3s with 100 watt amp: Specs are 17-22 amps typical on
>> transmit, recommended 25 amp power supply.
>> 
>> 2.  Elecraft KPA 500: Specs are PA Current 20 amp maximum.
>> 
>> 3.  Elecraft KX3: Specs are 1-2 amp typical current in transmit.
>> 
>> One other important question.  I have conquered much of the RFI in my radio
>> room using power poles with extended thick Red and Black wiring wound
>> around toroids.  In this case the leads go from the Astron RS-35A to the
>> K3s.  I want to make sure there isn't too much drop in voltage over the
>> extended toroid wiring.  How can I best gauge what the K3s receives in this
>> setup? The manual says it should receive 13.8 volts nominal, 11 volts
>> minimum and 15 volts maximum. I think I am beyond the provided and
>> recommended 5' power cable.  I have not had any problems (that I know of).
>> 
>> I do not have a desk full of electronic devices for evaluating this, so is
>> there a simple way to be reasonably sure?
>> 
>> 73 and thanks for your help,
>> 
>> W7RPK, Peder
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Re: [Elecraft] HOA Crap

2021-06-29 Thread Rick NK7I

Hi Mike,

It's always nice to work you on the air.

I'm a VEC and over the last year have participated in several tests 
which resulted in over 100 new hams (not bad for a county of only 
18,000).  Most were over 50, some 30-40's and a handful are juveniles 
(under 18).  At the last test, a woman in her 80's tested (failed, but 
it didn't break her spirit, she'll try again; GREAT attitude).  This is 
an older county, most of the younger crowd leaves to find a career, 
attend college or be in the military (no career prospects here, but 
farming, logging, milling and working at a local store).  So the ham 
representation here tends to be 40-ish and higher for new hams.  The 
younger crowd is more interested in starting their lives and making a 
living; very challenging here.


Since the class only has time to teach to the test (no real learning 
involved, just answers) the local club meetings have short sessions 
about "I'm licensed, now what do I do?'  Without such information, these 
neophytes will never progress and the hobby, along with their interest, 
dies.  It's good old fashioned Elmer'ing and we help each other build 
stations.


Most noobs tend to get the cheaper $35 imported radios, until they learn 
just how filthy those are on the air (learning creates change which 
allows progress).  They are taught how to use it, program it, what to 
(not) discuss on the air, manners, protocols and in general HOW to be a 
ham.  They are exposed to many facets of ham radio from contesting and 
DX (which tends to be connected); satellite, HF, EME, repeater 
operations, including the local RF linked network (and more) AND how to 
apply theory (this month discusses "What is antenna gain and when/where 
do I want it?").


In ALL discussions, a radio is involved; even for those able to start 
building an HF station (just like when I started 40 something years ago) 
or put up a 2m ground plane.  They are taught to NOT turn all knobs to 
11; to read the manuals, adjust carefully (and why) and generally how to 
properly produce the cleanest signals they can (some radios make that a 
challenge).  Progress is slow, which is fine as long as it's forward.


Surfing the internet to use a receiver (other than scanning fire calls) 
is never discussed; it has little to do with running a ham station.  The 
only discussion about the internet is when logging, spotting and filing 
entries is covered.  (I'm not SO old school that SOME new tools are taboo.)


Ham radio is better without gaming the system to seek an advantage and 
remote stations for rent, do exactly that.  It creates an unfair 
advantage and only requires a fat wallet, not the knowledge and 
experience gained by making your own station and learning how to 
maximize it's ability.  Put another way, rental buys the plaques, awards 
and acclaim with a wallet, not with ability.  Such items are valueless 
because they weren't earned by effort, but money.


I've driven VERY fast sports cars (and proven that they are both quick 
and fast, while being scary responsive), but it doesn't make me a race 
driver.  Renting a world class station, even if I bring my own radio; 
doesn't make me a world class contester/DXer, just someone with 
'disposable income'.  To me, the only real fun would be to have 
different propagation than what I have at home.


If I build the race car (or radio station) by hand, know intimately 
EVERY part and it's place, then learn how to best use it; then I can 
call myself improved and eventually qualified to operate it.  Winning 
the race (contest) or not simply allows me to rate my progress over time 
(my competition is me against me, EVERY time, just like golf).  In a 
small group, we 'motivate' each other to improve the stations and number 
of DX worked and condole with each other when there is a failure or poor 
showing.


You're right, remote operation of another persons efforts is legal but 
that isn't the point.  Being able to do something doesn't make it 
morally right.  With remote rental, you're taking credit for another 
persons efforts.  You didn't EARN that plaque/award/score if you didn't 
help put it all together; you bought it.


I'm not forcing anything on anyone, everybody has a moral code and 
choices to be made.  I've made it clear that mine is that I'll only 
count (log) from a station that I built/assembled and not any other 
station.  I may use other stations, but they won't be in MY log book.


IF that day comes that I can't manage the station anymore; I'll move to 
an HT and keep in touch with my neighbors and make new friends.  If I 
degrade below being able to manage even that, I probably wouldn't know 
the difference anymore (it won't matter).


It is ham radio, not Xbox; it uses RADIO, not a game panel.  The 
internet is a tool; it's not ham radio without a radio.


See you on HF!

73,
Rick NK7I


On 6/29/2021 5:51 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

Rick

I think you need to look at the average age of today's

Re: [Elecraft] HOA Crap

2021-06-29 Thread Rick NK7I
The difference there is that you(r club) own/s, maintain/s the station, 
not rents it.  Just as I operate my home station from where I happen to 
be.  It is also what I suggested for those infected with HOA rules.


I'll double down; any station that uses a remote receiver to augment 
"for awards, certificates or similar" is a blight; an immoral aberration 
to our hobby.  (I'm excluding nets, that isn't for any awards, but will 
fail when it's real.)


Jim, I agree, rental hopping for the purposes of DXCC or similar, is 
equally immoral and as such, should be banned from such awards.  Use 
your own, a club or a friends station WHILE physically there if your 
morality reaches that far.  Mine doesn't; I've used other stations and 
entered into THEIR log, not mine (the station is not mine, simple).


I've read the OP page on QRZ and that's all great; a life WELL lived.  
But to call a non-radio owner a ham, just isn't right. It's ham RADIO, 
not ham internet.


Noise was one of the reasons for me escaping the HOA world; some things 
just can't be fixed.  I was able to make informed choices on my 
purchase, which has made ALL the difference (in DXing at least).  -127 
dBm is my normal noise floor on most bands now; not the -80 I had before.


At the least, own a simple HT, KX#, to call yourself a ham in more than 
license.


73 all,
Rick NK7I


On 6/29/2021 12:47 PM, Gordon LaPoint wrote:
I setup a remote about 10 miles from my house, with KT1I and WB8PKK, 
because KT1I had to move into an apartment with no antennas, and my 
noise level has gone to 20overS9 on 80-20 and is some what bad on 
18-10.  I still use my home station, but use the remote for low 
bands.  So I can see the benifet of setting up and using remotes.

See: http:\\www.n1mgo.org
Gordon - N1MGO

On 6/29/2021 15:41 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 6/29/2021 11:53 AM, Bert wrote:

What has that to do with his opinion about renting a ham station?
Did I miss something?


Yes. Two things. With all this guy has done with ham radio, I don't 
think anyone has the right to lecture him on what ham radio is.


And eventually, if we live long enough, all of us are likely to be in 
situations where having our own station is simply not possible. I 
fail to see a problem with operating another station remotely.


My only objection (and is a STRONG one) is the use of a station 
geographically positioned to add a new country or band country to 
one's DXCC count.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Old DOS computers

2021-06-28 Thread Rick NK7I
Does a (long time) ham only have one radio?
Or one antenna?
Only using one band?

No; we tend to be packrats (including my entire TS520 station stored away from 
the 70’s).

Having only one is “a single point of failure” issue.   Redundancy is good and 
repurposing helps. 

I have several radios and computers.   Each radio serves a purpose, some are 
back ups.   Others, like a couple computers, are placed around to simply save 
walking to access one lol, in handy places. 

Each computer serves a purpose also; as needed.  Such as IRLP node, weather 
data collection and collation, producing a web page to present it; critter cam 
management with shared presentation and scanner streaming (since no one else 
around here does that).  Each element carries a load, more gets done. 

I have back up computers stored also in the event of failure (or someone in 
need, I’ve given several away).

I like toys and I share well with others. 

Windows is not the only OS, there are options available.   Some still work 
really well on ‘old’ hardware. 

And yes I have a fast multi core running at GHz speeds, with multiple fast 
hi-Rez displays for critical things like station ops hi hi. 

As well as a Pi, just to play with.  I said I like toys.  

I have cameras too lol. More than one.  Those same ‘rules’ apply. 

73,
Rick NK7I

Email spiel Czech corruptions happen

> On Jun 28, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Dick  wrote:
> 
> 
> I will never understand how those in the Amateur radio hobby can spend 
> thousands of dollars on equipment, yet they keep old PC’s that are not very 
> efficient at all, nor are they secure. It just defies logic !
> 
> Dick / W1REJ
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Don’t throw those old DOS computers away

2021-06-28 Thread Rick NK7I
The simplest answer before the fight/discussion begins anew:  The one 
that works the best for YOUR needs.


Generic may not do contests well; contesting logbooks may not do every 
day well.


Some play well with other code; some play well with hardware; some don't 
do either.


Some cost money; some are free.  Some are just crap-ware...

It's a struggle; just fill your needs.

73,
Rick NK7I (specifically NOT saying which one I use)


On 6/28/2021 2:54 PM, jerry wrote:

So what's the hot ticket nowadays on logging software?

 I rolled my own, but it's
quite primitive.  It runs on my Linux server and I access it via a web 
browser.  It gives me a pair of clocks at the top - local and UTC.  At 
the bottom, there's a big text window for copying code. In between - 
the list of contacts, plus a form for entering a new one.  The current 
UTC timestamp is automatically put in.  The latest contact has a 
button for ending it - and putting in the "end" UTC timestamp.


  It was easy to do that, because I already wrote substantial software 
in support of my business, and the infrastructure was all there - 
webserver, SSL, libraries for linking multiple pages, templates etc etc.


   I'm sure that other people have written logging software with 
features I can barely imagine.


  Right now, I'm thinking of having it automatically nominate text in 
the CW copy window for new contacts"anything that looks like a 
callsign".


  Also need something to slice & dice the logbook data for contest 
reports.


    - Jerry KF6VB

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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Pro 7 headset with KX3 - RF feedback?

2021-06-18 Thread Rick NK7I

Slight topic change, apologies.

Has anyone used rx audio via Bluetooth into their hearing aids? Any issues?

I was hoping the K4 would have BT audio, but it doesn't.  So the next 
best option would be to send the sound card audio to BT in a computer, 
linked to the aids or headset...  I don't have my K4 yet, so it's a guess.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 6/18/2021 11:58 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 6/18/2021 11:34 AM, Ed Cole wrote:
I wear hearing aids and the CM500 immediately set up a loud howl the 
minute I put them on (even with not being plugged into the radio).  
Apparently my hearing aid gain is so high the CM500 provided feedback 
to the hearing aid mics - I have two with my OTE (over the ear) 
hearing aids.


That's acoustic interaction of the earphones with your aids, and 
depends on the placement of the mics in the aids. Mics for the aids 
are picking up their own amplified sound, because the acoustic space 
around the ear is modified by the presence of the earphones. In sound 
systems, we call that feedback. It makes sense that different 
headphones would interact differently with aids, depending on the 
construction of both.


My XYL uses aids where the mics are outside the ear. She doesn't use 
headphones when she's wearing them.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Inventorying a K3/P3

2021-03-29 Thread Rick NK7I

Dave,

The menu settings would be a good place to start, confirmed by taking 
the cover off.  One receiver is covered by the other, so some 
disassembly is required for the visual of the filters.  Then tuner, 
which i/o board etc.


For the P3, the options are the SVGA board and the TX board.

Sorry for your loss,
Rick NK7I


On 3/29/2021 10:30 AM, John Simmons wrote:

Dave,

This topic was recently covered either here or another reflector I 
subscribe to.


There isn't a very good way to properly find all the options installed 
other than pulling the cover to see. There are two programs that may 
help: The Elecraft K3 Utility program and K3_EZ: 
https://groups.io/g/Elecraft-K3/files/K3_EZ


-de John NI0K


Dave Cole wrote on 3/29/2021 12:18 PM:

Hi,

I am about to take a look at a K3 which a SK estate has asked me to 
sell for them.  It was a friend of mine, for of many decades that 
passed, and his children and wife have now decided to sell the K3/P3.


I need to inventory the K3 to see what all is in it...  Aside from 
the obvious, and what I know about the rig, (I helped him go over the 
rig when he got it, and before he purchased it), are there any tell 
tail signs in the configuration menu I should look for?


What I know is the following:

K3, with second receiver
New synths in it for each RX.
10 MHz input for external reference.
Elecraft has gone over it and put the gold contacts in it.
Early serial number

I will be visiting the rig later this week, so I am looking for any 
tips...  Private email is fine if you don't want to clog up the 
reflector.


I had thought of sending it to Elecraft and have them look it over 
for a list of items, but with the extended return times of late, I 
think I'll advise the family to wait a bit on that option.


It was just at Elecraft less than a year or so ago, and blessed by 
them, so it should still be in good shape...  Anyway, if you can 
think of things to look for, I am all ears...




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Re: [Elecraft] WSJTX settings

2021-03-22 Thread Rick NK7I
That depends on which logging program too, N1MM (and others) for example 
assumes control of the radio.  In those cases, they cannot be running if 
you want native WSJT-X to control the rig.


I use HRD for control and logging; within WSJT-X I have HRD set as the 
rig (so even if I switch to another radio, it still works too).  WSJT-X 
can also load directly into the logging program of HRD (if you use for 
example Win3K3 for rig control with HRD logging).  They all play nicely 
together.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 3/22/2021 9:21 AM, Bill Frantz wrote:

Welcome to the list and to the K3.

I had similar problems yesterday and it was something I am have 
experienced before. I had a logging program running that uses the CAT 
interface, and WSJT does not share well. Quitting the logging program 
made things work again. My only problem is soreness from kicking 
myself in the butt.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 3/22/21 at 11:20 AM, ka4...@gmail.com (Steve Fox) wrote:


First post from a new K3 owner.
Trying to get the CAT portion of WSJT working.  I’ll worry with the 
audio later. Have communicated with K3 via Utility on Com 4.


On my PC I have WSJT set for K3, correct port, 38400, 8-1-none, CAT, 
Data/Pkt, split none. Is there a menu item somewhere on the K3 that I 
need to check and alter?  Mode is set to DATA.

---
Bill Frantz    | Privacy is dead, get over | Periwinkle
(408)348-7900  | it.   | 150 Rivermead Rd #235
www.pwpconsult.com |    - Scott McNealy (1999) | Peterborough, NH 03458

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Re: [Elecraft] best grounding technique

2021-03-19 Thread Rick NK7I
The ARRL book on Grounding and Bonding is very clear.  Each piece of 
gear has its OWN wire/strap to a common grounding point (a copper pipe 
mounted on a wall is a common method, that being connected to the system 
ground; everything to the building safety ground, more ground rods every 
2x the depth of the rod).


Look at it this way, say a discharge comes in through your antenna, into 
the radio, connected to your computer and other devices.  Would you 
prefer that energy goes only through the radio to ground (losing the 
radio) or in a series through everything else in the shack too?  The 
'fan' mode you mention is preferred, give that energy EVERY chance to 
seek ground BEFORE it passes through your gear.


Energy shunts (PolyPhase devises for example) at the antenna entry point 
are another must.  One per feed.


I suggest reading that book, several times (it's complex) for a better 
understanding.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 3/19/2021 2:06 PM, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
It seems that there are two ways of running grounding wires in the 
shack: FAN - from a common ground point, individual grounding wires 
are run to each piece of equipment; LINKING - a ground wire is run 
from each piece of equipment to the next and eventually ending in a 
common ground point. What's the group wisdom on the relative merits of 
these two approaches to running grounds in the shack?

...robert

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[Elecraft] K4 Bluetooth audio?

2021-02-24 Thread Rick NK7I
I may have missed or forgotten it; but does the computer portion of the 
K4 (the network chip specifically) allow for BlueTooth audio from the K4 
so one could use a BT headset (or hearing aids)?


I have a BT headset with a (no boom) mic used on a iPhone that would be 
awesome to retask for phone on the K4 audio.  Two less wires on the 
desk, foot switch to transmit...


73,
Rick NK7I

PS if not, can it be one for the want list?

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Panadapter Cable Connections

2021-01-04 Thread Rick NK7I

My bad, I didn't think it through enough.  Joe is right.

Rick NK7I


On 1/4/2021 1:10 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


I recently purchased a P3 and connected it to my K3.  The 
installation shares the RS232 connection with a Microham USB 
interface III for digital operation.  I used a Y cable to connect 
both of these units simultaneously.

That is the *WRONG WAY* to connect a K3, P3 and Computer.

Connect the RS-232 plug from microHAM USB III to the "PC" jack
on the P3.  Connect the XCVR jack on the P3 to the RS232 jack
on the K3.  Set the K3 RS232 RATE to 38,400 and set the CAT
Rate in your logging software to 38,400 as well.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2021-01-04 3:28 PM, MICHAEL SMITH wrote:

Gentlemen:

I recently purchased a P3 and connected it to my K3.  The 
installation shares the RS232 connection with a Microham USB 
interface III for digital operation.  I used a Y cable to connect 
both of these units simultaneously.


I find I cannot run both at the same time.  If I do, the P3 does not 
display the frequency at the top of the screen, and does not display 
the band-pass of the VFO A.  Each unit will run separately with full 
function.


Has anyone else experienced this interaction?  Were you able to 
adjust the connection to allow full function of both units?  How did 
you do it?


73, Mike Smith
K0CCM


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Panadapter Cable Connections

2021-01-04 Thread Rick NK7I
While I don't have the Microham, the Y should be first in the series 
(listen only port to the Microham); to the P3, then the cable from the 
P3 to the K3 so they can 'chat'.  (That is the same as I do for my 
SteppIR controller.)


HNY,
Rick NK7I


On 1/4/2021 12:28 PM, MICHAEL SMITH wrote:

Gentlemen:

I recently purchased a P3 and connected it to my K3.  The installation shares 
the RS232 connection with a Microham USB interface III for digital operation.  
I used a Y cable to connect both of these units simultaneously.

I find I cannot run both at the same time.  If I do, the P3 does not display 
the frequency at the top of the screen, and does not display the band-pass of 
the VFO A.  Each unit will run separately with full function.

Has anyone else experienced this interaction?  Were you able to adjust the 
connection to allow full function of both units?  How did you do it?

73, Mike Smith
K0CCM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tx Spurious on Specific Frequencies on 160/80/40

2021-01-01 Thread Rick NK7I

Andy,

My suggestion is rather basic (I've learned that sometimes the most 
obvious is often missed, don't ask how I know).  Take the time to open 
the case and tighten every bolt, nut, screw and reseat the connectors 
(wiggle everything).  Then retest.  Over time, some radios self-loosen 
bolts etc. in particular those that bond boards to mounts (thermal 
flexing).  ;-)  However Elecraft is not just 'some radio', but it's 
worth a peek.


I would also suggest a redo of the power calibration sequence, to have 
those values at the ready for Elecraft (save the config file to send to 
them).  I say this because recent reports of LPA failure of a few K3's 
have appeared on this list (one may be carrying more load if another has 
failed).  If that has happened, non-linearity could be increased (as the 
radio strives to make the power level as set), amplified through each stage.


By then the support staff at Elecraft should be back on duty for further 
comments and testing.


It's curious (disturbing) that both of yours exhibit the same issues 
(though one is 'better').


Good luck, please report back any useful comments or fixes.

HNY,
Rick NK7I


On 1/1/2021 10:34 AM, g4piq--- via Elecraft wrote:

Thanks Rick. To answer those questions.

  


I'm measuring this with the radio into a power attenuator and then with
additional attenuation into a Perseus SDR operating as a spectrum analyser -
well below its overload threshold and with plenty good enough phase noise
and dynamic range to see this. I've also confirmed the signals are there on
the second K3.

  


I ripped out all the normal station cabling as part of the testing - so -
yes everything is tight.

  


I suspect I haven't noticed this before for two reasons. Firstly - the level
of the spurii are very variable by specific frequency in the band - so you
have to be a bit unlucky - and unless you're listening for it yourself on
site - most times it would be too weak for people to comment / skimmers to
pick it up. Also - the times I have run this radio with a second receive in
band while transmitting it's normally been with the run radio above 7025
where the spurii are at a much lower / no existent level.

  


Secondly - I wonder if something is degrading in that radio. The fact that
the spurious level changes significantly with drive levels suggests this is
being generated by a non-linearity in the PA chain, and I wonder if I'm
short of gain somewhere in the driver strip so the ALC is forcing the low
levels in the strip to be driven harder.

  


It is present on both radios, but is 15dB worse on one radio than the other.

  


Andy, G4PIQ

-

NK7O wrote :-

I don't have an answer, I have no test gear that would even allow a look

(other than another radio).  But I'm curious how you're measuring and

observing (not doubting) these results.

  


Except for the reports seen on the air to validate your observations; if

the radio change barely affects the results and the condition does not,

it's either a failure of both radios or the testing environment (i.e.

transmitting into the same antenna).

  


What happens with changes in power output, different (dummy) loads?

Then the eternal question; since this hasn't been noted before at your

station; what else is different or has changed?  Have you tightened your

antenna connectors lately?

  


HNY,

Rick NK7I

  


On 1/1/2021 9:30 AM, g4piq--- via Elecraft wrote

  


In general I've found the spurious performance of the K3 to be pretty good,
but I've noticed something today that I thought it would be worth asking
more widely if anyone else has seen and fixed.

  


I was calling CQ on 40m around 7014 kHz and I noted that several skimmers
also reported me weakly on c. 600 Hz either side of this frequency.
Sometimes skimmers have bad spurious responses, but seeing this on more than
one skimmer caused me to look more closely at my transmit spectrum. I
discovered that - particularly on 40m - there were specific frequency ranges
where a pair of sidebands appeared that move at 150% of the change in
carrier frequency. So on 7012 kHz they are at roughly +/- 500 Hz, at 7011
kHz they are at roughly +/- 1 kHz, at 7010 kHz they are at roughly +/- 1.5
kHz. They cross over with the carrier just below 7013 kHz.

  


Similar patterns recur in other parts of 40m, but they are strongest near
the bottom of the band. There are dramatic step changes in the level of the
spuria at the boundaries between synthesiser segments - So I see spurii from
7000-7004, none from 7004-7009, spurii 7009 -7015, etc. They peak in
strength when they are about +/- 500 Hz from the carrier, but drop
significantly in level as you get further from the carrier.

  


The level of these spurii is what was concerning - at their worst they were
less than 30dB down on the transmit signal. They grow somewhat non-linearly
with power. At 5W they are -40dBc, at 12W they are -32dBc, at 13W they are
-35dBc and at 100W

Re: [Elecraft] k3 no RF in transmit

2020-12-04 Thread Rick NK7I
You've made a mistake, a long XMIT (TUN) press is for applying a small 
amount of output, to match with the antenna (or check the SWR).


ATU TUN (ATU) applies power to the internal tuner, if any, if enabled.  
Two different functions.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 12/4/2020 10:06 AM, Joseph McIntire wrote:

Tune only works with  an atu

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>


From: Joseph McIntire 
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2020 12:04:39 PM
To: Bill Frantz 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 no RF in transmit

I am using  the XMIT which  produces  a cw output  just like tune but  you can 
adjust the power.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>


From: Bill Frantz 
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2020 11:33:34 AM
To: Joseph McIntire 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 no RF in transmit

If you are in CW mode, you will need to use some form of CW key
to create output. (Without a key down, zero output is normal.) A
key plugged into the radio will work fine. You can also play
back a CW memory (that has something in it), to produce output.

I'm away from my K3, but I think you can produce output by
putting it in Data->FSK-D or Data->PSK-D might also work.

Using TUNE on the radio is another way for force output.

When using wsjt-x, you should be able to hear the audio signal
from the computer via the Monitor function. You should hear the
audio after turning the monitor level up a bit.

If you can hear audio getting to the radio, then another
worthwhile test is to try 5-10 watts output. This will use the
low power amplifier in the radio, skipping the 100W amp.

Good luck - Bill, AE6JV

On 12/4/20 at 11:55 AM, ki4...@msn.com (Joseph McIntire) wrote:


I have tried test mode everything looks  normal  in test mode.
When not in test tried with wsjt-x through a signal link as I
had been using it for months on 1o,12,15,17,20,and 40 meters. I
was using it and everything was fine. Until about 10:00
yesterday.  Checked so cables between te radio and amp. Then I
realized I did not have even the  drive to the amp. Absolutely
0 watts. I was driving the amp with about  8 watts. Then I
decided to make sure nothing external was affecting the radio
so I disconnected everything except  power and antenna  cable
to wattmeter and dummy. Still zero. When you depress the XMIT
button on the radio it switches automatically to CW and
transmits a carrier normally.  It switches to cw but still no
RF out . Displays dashes for SWR and 0 watts. Hooked a mike up
changed settings.  I can see the ALC change but still nothing
out. Tried high power a day low so it is in the  drive I
believe as the 100 watt amp is the same results as the 10 watt.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>


From: Bill Frantz 
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2020 10:32:46 AM
To: Joseph McIntire 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 no RF in transmit

Just to cover the bases, make sure you're not in transmit test mode.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 12/4/20 at 8:32 AM, ki4...@msn.com (Joseph McIntire) wrote:


Yesterday I was running some FT8 on 17 meters. All of a sudden
I noticed there was no output out of the amplifier. Then looked
at the radio it had the red XMIT light on and two dash marks in
place of SWR and said 0 Watts out. So disconnected every thing
except power and antenna switched antenna switch to dummy and
get the same thing on any band.  Of course when you depress The
XMIT button it switches to CW. But I did hook a Mic up. With
the mic hooked up I got the red XMIT led with ALC on the
display I would see the ALC change as I was talking in the MIC.
But when I switch over to the display that shows RF out there
is no indication of RF. Is this something other people have
had. I realize it could most likely be multiple different thing
but would these indications narrow it down to a section of the
radio like maybe the 100 watt amp. Or something like that.

Thanks for all advice in advance
Joe   AB3JN

--
Bill Frantz| There are now so many exceptions to the
408-348-7900   | Fourth Amendment that it operates only by
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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware development

2020-11-25 Thread Rick NK7I
Your point continues to be repeated (and it’s become a tiresome and annoying 
whine).  However it remains that the Elecraft code is proprietary, just as most 
radio manufacturers code, name most any brand.  Ditto car engine computer code 
(gas, diesel, hybrid or battery), computer program operating systems, 
networking products and more.   It’s private and protected by laws.  

Try walking into Tesla and demanding copies of their designs and coding.   You 
might just hope to land on the lawn, it depends on how well they toss you. 

While it’s possible to come close to duplicating the hardware (illegally), 
perhaps even take a good stab at the code; Elecraft gear still has their name 
on it, they stand behind it with both name and reputation on the line. 

So their code won’t be released to the public risking someone makIng poor 
changes, potentially causing issues, that could besmirch the name and product 
reputation that they’ve built up.  That would be ruinous to the product, the 
users and financial suicide for Elecraft. 

Ditto Kenwood.  Ditto Yaesu.  Ditto Icom.   And they’re not even in the same 
league as Elecraft. 

If the coder is THAT good, apply to join the team.   Expand that team to 
anyone/everyone and you end up with radio version of Windows; bloated, slow, 
resource hogging that demands new hardware with each update or evolution and 
can’t get out of its own way to operate in mediocrity. 

If you want to roll your own, start at the very beginning, just as they did.  
No one stopped them, no one will stop you.

I think they’re doing an excellent job and push their designs to the limit 
(K3); then take the next step with newer hardware (K4) to build on their 
success. 

You’re welcome to try and match all that; starting from scratch. 

Let’s not (ever) bring this up monthly anymore; the answer in the foreseeable 
future, is no.  For excellent reasons. 

Most of the users buy in because of the well proven quality and won’t accept 
substitutes.   Stop asking. 

73,
Rick NK7I

Email spiel Czech corruptions happen

> On Nov 25, 2020, at 10:10 PM, Tim Neu  wrote:
> 
> The point on Moore's law is taken.
> 
> But the options aren't just limited to Elecraft doing more work on older
> radios or no updates at all (or supporting the old radios to the detriment
> of the new)
> 
> Many software development projects now are community based and although
> radio firmware may be more time-consuming and more complex than OpenWRT for
> example, community based development may have more umph than Elecraft might
> have as far as inclination to tweak old radios.
> 
> Just a thought.
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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware development

2020-11-25 Thread Rick NK7I
And yet the TS-590 still has unfixed design flaws (overshoot being one 
of the worst) without sending it to an authorized shop, taking weeks.


It was MONTHS before that firmware was updated (since originally 
reported).  I find the reaction time for updates with Elecraft to be 
more responsive.  Plus you can talk to a tech (except for COVID delays 
now) the same day you initiate contact.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 11/25/2020 8:25 AM, Andy Durbin wrote:

"Name any other company that gives you FREE firmware updates in real time (not 
months later like Icom or never like most others) until the issues are resolved to the 
user satisfaction; or that ADD features previously unavailable."

Kenwood!

Kenwood has released firmware updates for TS-590S defects that I reported and 
made product improvements that I suggested.   My experience is that Kenwood has 
fixed problems far more quickly than Elecraft.

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplitude variation on K3S with JT65B

2020-10-21 Thread Rick NK7I
Fake It keeps the tones between 1500-2000 Hz. (not 1000) so that the 
harmonic energy is out of the passband.


Also the response of the sound card has some variation at different 
pitches (it's not a totally flat response), so try different tones.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 10/21/2020 6:19 AM, Dave wrote:

Conrad,

My friend just had the issue you described with a different brand radio. He was 
transmitting near the high end of the TX filter and on higher tones of the FT8 
the power would drop causing the TX power to waiver.

The fix for him was to enable Fake It in the WSJT-X radio settings tab. That 
keeps the TX audio centered between 1 kHz and 2 kHz. Well within the TX filter 
bandwidth.

Dave wo2x

Sent from my waxed string and tin cans.


On Oct 21, 2020, at 7:51 AM, Conrad PA5Y  wrote:

Hello while I wait for feedback from the (no doubt overwhelmed) Elecraft 
support I thought that I would ask the group about a problem that I have with 
my K3S.

When I run JT65B and even to a lesser extent FT8 I see unacceptable amplitude 
variation on both the 6m output and the transverter output (on 28MHz). If I put 
my E4406 Spectrum analyser on peak hold with a narrow span and 10Hz RBW I see 
amplitude variations of a little over 1dB on the modulation tones across the 
passband.

To save time.


  1.  On the ALC meter I have 4 bars lit up with the 5th occasionally 
flickering - the audio drive level is correct; it is not an ALC issue
  2.  I calibrated the TX drive - the effect is observed at 1mw, 5W, 50W and 
100W on 6m.
  3.  I am using DATA A so no TX EQ or compression
  4.  The audio has from WSJT-X been measured on a UPV audio analyser and there 
is less than 0.1dB variation when using a UMC404HD sound card
  5.  The effect is observed with both Line input drive and the UMC404HD 
soundcard and the internal K3S codec
  6.  My old TS2000X does not exhibit more than 0.1dB amplitude variation with 
the same sound card providing audio and the same test setup
  7.  I have verified the amplitude variations at RF with a diode detector and 
an oscilloscope
  8.  The effect is clearly visible on several power meters
  9.  This AM causes some spectral re-growth, although this is tolerable

So given all that I am beginning to wonder if the problem is due to filter 
ripple in the standard K3S 2.7kHz filter? I cannot think of anything else. I 
was considering buying an Inrad #718 filter.

This is very critical for EME when signals are weak at the RX side, if you have 
amplitude variations and you are at the threshold of detection at the receiving 
station this can cause decodes to fail. This is more important on 6m EME than 
2m where I have more margin.

I think that this will be quite common, has anybody else got a K3S and the 
equipment to check and verify my observations?

73

Conrad PA5Y
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Fires

2020-10-14 Thread Rick NK7I
The simplest answer is when an area has numerous fires consuming homes, acres 
and a few lives in excess of the ‘norm’; there will never be enough resources 
available in a timely manner. 

Every fire, regardless of which agency is responsible (Fed, state, local) is 
noted and prioritized And addressed, leaving some reserves for the more mundane 
events (90% medical aid, wrecks etc) and a smaller amount to apply as it hits 
the fan; including help from other states and countries (while protecting 
everyone from COVID as best as possible).  Herculean effort is a gross 
understatement this year. 

CA has exceeded the 4 million acre threshold (30+ dead); a record that no one 
wants... with another month (or more) of fire season to go (in the north, the 
south never closes).

Prayers for all the impacted; the level of destruction is beyond traumatic. 

Rick NK7I

Email spiel Czech corruptions happen

> On Oct 14, 2020, at 1:53 PM, Al Lorona  wrote:
> 
> I still can't understand the almost total ignoring of this fire for so long. 
> So I resonated with Bob on this point, and for this reason I refute W6GJB's 
> claim that resources assigned to southern California deprived northern 
> California of the same. It seems that *nobody* had the resources they needed. 
> What a shame.
> 
> Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K4 support IPv6?

2020-09-28 Thread Rick NK7I
Using that same page, it shows m provider (barely) provides IPv4 with no IPv6.  
My mantra is still “I didn’t move here for the Internet”.  ;-) 
Rick NK7I 

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 27, 2020, at 11:54 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV  wrote:
> 
> Using a web browser on Windows, on the same LAN / Router as the K4, if I go
> to https://whatismyipaddress.com/, it displays both an IPv4 and IPv6
> address (for my Router), so I assume that means my provider supports both.
> 
> 73,
> Bob, N6TV
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 11:47 PM Rick NK7I  wrote:
>> 
>> Your router may supply it to your lan, but your provider may not utilize
>> it yet.
>> 
>> Rick NK7I
>> 
>> 
>>> On 9/27/2020 11:41 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:
>>> I'm not sure what you mean by "support IPv6".
>>> 
>>> From a Windows command prompt, I tried a *ping -6* command with the
>> radio's
>>> IPv6 address, to force IPv6 addressing, and it responded just fine.
>>> 
>>> But it sure is easier to type the radios IPv4 address, which the rig
>>> displays in the menu.  It doesn't display the K4's IPv6 address, but my
>>> Router interface displayed it.
>>> 
>>> What application do you plan to use that requires IPv6?
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Bob, N6TV
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 10:47 PM Christopher Hoover 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> No answer?
>>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 5:25 PM Christopher Hoover 
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Does the K4 support IPv6?
>>>>> 
>>>>> 73 de AI6KG
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K4 support IPv6?

2020-09-28 Thread Rick NK7I
Your router may supply it to your lan, but your provider may not utilize 
it yet.


Rick NK7I


On 9/27/2020 11:41 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:

I'm not sure what you mean by "support IPv6".

 From a Windows command prompt, I tried a *ping -6* command with the radio's
IPv6 address, to force IPv6 addressing, and it responded just fine.

But it sure is easier to type the radios IPv4 address, which the rig
displays in the menu.  It doesn't display the K4's IPv6 address, but my
Router interface displayed it.

What application do you plan to use that requires IPv6?

73,
Bob, N6TV


On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 10:47 PM Christopher Hoover 
wrote:


No answer?

On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 5:25 PM Christopher Hoover 
wrote:


Does the K4 support IPv6?

73 de AI6KG



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Re: [Elecraft] raspy cw audio on K3--but OK after power cycle

2020-09-21 Thread Rick NK7I
Occasionally the filters, shift center, NR or NV kick in and I've always 
written that off as random output from the computer.  A filter reset 
(long push on the shift knob) or a mode change usually brings it back to 
what is wanted.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 9/21/2020 1:49 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


Not sure how you expect anyone to help with so little information 
provided.


Did it happen only once or was it repeatable?   Do you have other gear 
(amp, SWR meter, antenna switch, autotuner, powered speakers, etc) 
connected to the K3 that get activated when the K3 turns on? Did the 
problem show up on headphones or speakers?


Did you only check one strong signal the first time or did you try 
others?  In other words, how do you know that the raspy signal wasn't 
a temporary problem on the other end?


But yes, I suppose the problem could have been a scratchy relay in the 
K3 somewhere.  That just seems less likely to me than other 
possibilities.


Dave   AB7E




On 9/21/2020 1:33 PM, Rocky AE7US wrote:
I just turned on the rig, went to the CW portion of 20 meters, and 
when I
tuned in on a strong CW signal, the audio was raspy and distorted.  
After

turning the radio off and then on again, the signal sounded normal.  Any
ideas?

Thanks,

Rocky, AE7US


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Re: [Elecraft] Update on K4 manuals

2020-09-10 Thread Rick NK7I

Wayne,

When the K4 firmware is updated, will that install app and package now 
include an updated manual, installed on the K4 so it's always the most 
current (or at least as current as the firmware)? I realize that 
rewriting/updating the manual delays the release of the firmware.


73, stay safe,
Rick NK7I


On 9/10/2020 6:28 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

I thought I'd post an update given the many questions on this topic. I'm the 
bottleneck on documentation, something that wasn't supposed to happen, 
but...stuff happened. No need to rehash that.

There are three major documents in the works:

1. K4 Built-In Operating Manual

This is an .html document normally viewed on the K4's LCD or external monitor. You get to 
it by tapping the button labeled "?" in the lower-left-hand corner of the LCD.

For review purposes the doc can be viewed in any browser. And in fact, late 
next week we'll be looking for a few hardy volunteers who don't mind going 
through 60 pages of text, trying every link.

In the radio context, the operating manual is supplemented by direct hyperlinks attached 
to every control and menu entry. There's a "LAST CONTROL" button that takes you 
directly to text most closely associated with the last operation performed.

2. K4 Owner's Manual

Because of its multitude of full-color illustrations, the owner's manual will 
be 150-200 pages when finished. It'll be a fully searchable and indexed .pdf 
file, and two steps up from our earlier manuals. Early K4 users have been using 
a much smaller document that has many of the same illustrations.

The built-in operating manual provides the framework for the owner's manual, so 
I expect rapid progress on the latter as soon as the former is blessed.

3. K4 Programmer's Reference

An early draft of this doc has been in use by a our team and by a few 
developers who have been vetting it for us. Many of the apps available for the 
K3/K3S are already working with the K4 in emulation mode. But we're trying to 
expedite the public version of the reference so developers can take advantage 
of all of the new features.

* * *

If you have specific questions about the K4 documentation that I didn't answer 
above, feel free to post them to the list, or to email me directly (though I 
have a feeling my inbox is about to become more popular than usual, so I can't 
guarantee I'll get back to you instantly).

As usual, thanks for your patience.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] my KPA1500 and 160M

2020-09-01 Thread Rick NK7I
If you model it accurately, you see that a 4:1 transformer will cause most 
(other than 160M) to have a closer match; while on a few the 1:1 device will 
work better. 

If convenient, try each.  They each offer (dis)advantages. 

Rick NK7I

Email spiel Czech corruptions happen

> On Sep 1, 2020, at 3:26 PM, Steve Hall <99sun...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>  Additionally I find a 1:1 current balun
> provides a better match than a 4:1.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

2020-08-23 Thread Rick NK7I
Not only is the accessory circuit shared with others, it is often loaded 
with noises from the electronics in the vehicle.  They can harm both 
your RX and TX signals.


It takes a little time to run #12 ROMEX (with 40 or 50 A mobile, 
self-resetting circuit breakers at the battery to protect the wire, 
fuses for radios AT the radios; both positive and negative) but the 
returns are worth it.  You'll have to remember to turn the K3 OFF each 
time you start the engine; the wandering voltage could cause harm or 
scramble the settings.  Also bond to chassis AT the K3 to keep some RFI 
down...


*IF* you have a newer vehicle that measures current draw and charging 
rate at the battery (sometimes via the negative pole), you'll want to 
use that sensor point for negative connection; not at the battery.


That's the super quick description, to start a foundation of proper set up.

73,
Rick NK7I


On 8/23/2020 11:32 AM, Ed K1EP wrote:

You could do that. I wouldn't advise it for other reasons. Why don't you
measure the current at different power levels when on a power supply? There
is a current display on the radio. The cigarette plug is not directly
connected to the battery. There is likely to be poor connections resulting
in IR losses and other problems.

On Sun, Aug 23, 2020, 14:22 Ted Edwards W3TB  wrote:


I am planning to put my K3 in the car for the upcoming Tennessee QSO Party
so that I can go rover/expeditionary.

With that comes a question:  Powering from that accessory socket which
appears limited to 15 amps instead of the 20 amps that the K3 wants at full
power, do I understand right that reducing to 50 watts output and taking
the -3dB will work out in terms of power draw?

In the past, I have done QRP and would like to be a bit louder this time.
Thanks to all who might respond.

--
73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW

and thinking about operating CW:
"Do today what others won't,
so you can do tomorrow what others can't."
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking comments on Ham Expo from participants

2020-08-22 Thread Rick NK7I
I agree and there was apparently some cheating involved too, requiring a 
resolution after the fact.


If prizes are offered, just make it "They showed up here (each vendor), 
so they're entered into a random drawing", just like any other hamfest.  
Appearance equates to one (only) 'ticket'.


73,
Rick NK7I

PS I watched after, those days were already filled with family things.  
Being able to see what I wanted on my own schedule, really nice.




On 8/22/2020 2:53 PM, Gary Peterson wrote:

Agreed.  Much better than I expected.  And I never considered attending a 
hamfest, virtual or otherwise, to be a competitive sport.

Gary, K0CX


I thought the Expo was excellent overall...couldnt have cared less about trying 
to earn points and winning a prize.  Grant NQ5T
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2020-07-26 Thread Rick NK7I
The reading I've done says only one radial is required; that the 
'favoring' in the direction of the radial is not enough to be worried 
about; that there is no cancellation from opposing (or just more) 
radials.  I have used a single radial ground plane and found this to be 
true (at 6' over dirt on 80M).  It favors a morning net 800 miles away, 
yet worked DX in any other direction easily (then I moved to a rotating 
dipole at 60' which beats it out).  That ground plane easily beat out a 
horizontal dipole I used before them all (fixed, in the 'wrong' angle 
because of tree location).


Both the radiator and radial are tuned (equally), but the angle of 
difference from dipole to the traditional 90 deg ground plane will cause 
the resistance to vary (roughly 72 ohms as a dipole, dropping to ~50 
ohms when at 90 degrees),  So if another angle is chosen (inverted Y), 
to match a 50 ohm feedline (to have a 1:1 SWR), the element lengths are 
adjusted equally until that match is made; altering the resonance of the 
wires (maximum transfer of energy).  And inverted Y antenna would be 
between that 50-72 ohm range, still acceptably low SWR to not mess with.


Which again, is not a significant variance, so put it up, try it out and 
compare to other antennas.  Wire is cheap enough to play with and try 
things out.


Modeling will demonstrate the pattern and 'take off' angles quite 
clearly; reality is often different because of local objects, ground 
resistance, height...


Don't forget to add a common mode current choke at the feed.

73,
Rick NK7I



On 7/26/2020 11:57 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Fred,

That would be correct if they are oriented at 180 degrees from each 
other so as to cancel the horizontal radiation.  Elevated radials must 
be tuned to be effective, but only 2 are needed.  How much tuning will 
depend on the height above ground.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/26/2020 2:36 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

Ground Plane?

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 7/25/2020 8:20 PM, kevinr wrote:



   An antenna design is stuck in my head.  It consists of three 
legs, each 1/4 wavelength long.  One leg is vertical while the two 
radials are 120 degrees below it.  The two radials are connected 
electrically while the vertical leg is fed separately.  If it had 
more radials it would be called a 1/4 wave vertical.  But the one 
stuck in my head has elevated radials and only two of them.  I 
cannot remember what this antenna is called.  I know 'inverted Y 
antenna' doesn't work as a search term.  Does anyone know what this 
is usually called so I can use a better search string?  The low take 
off angle would be nice.  It looks like a 20 or 40 meter version 
would be easy to build and raise.



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna tuners

2020-07-17 Thread Rick NK7I
Save one; the screwdriver antenna on my truck is tuned (coil adjusted) by the 
TurboTuner attached to my radio until a match is found. 

And an argument could be made that a SteppIR controller performs a similar 
function. 

The rest are matching circuits to compensate for the disparity of input to 
output.  

73,
Rick NK7I

Email spiel Czech corruptions happen

> On Jul 17, 2020, at 7:00 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> No antenna has, at any time, anywhere in any of our lifetimes, been "tuned" 
> by an "antenna tuner."  So called antenna tuners are 2-port impedance 
> matching networks ... all of them ... and their job is to match the impedance 
> on one port to another impedance on the second port, period.  Nothing gets 
> "tuned."  They come in a variety of flavors ... a pair of push-pull 807's 
> with a resonant tank and a link feed to the antenna on open wire line is one. 
>  Everything that happens on the feed line [regardless of it's construction] 
> is the sole result of the complex impedance at the antenna feed point and the 
> characteristic impedance of the feedline.  No magic.
> 
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> "Captain Obvious"
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 7/17/2020 5:14 PM, Ken Roberson via Elecraft wrote:
>>  Kurt,
>> We are not tuning the antenna , we are matching the antenna to the coax at 
>> the base of the antenna.
>> 73 Ken K5DNL
>> 
>> On Friday, July 17, 2020, 7:10:32 PM CDT, Kurt Pawlikowski 
>>  wrote:
>> Ken: In some respects, a "matching device" at the base of the antenna is 
>> a tuner! {'-) It accomplishes the same function... {'-) k WB9FMC
>>On 7/17/2020 6:34 PM, Ken Roberson via Elecraft wrote:
>> Antenna tuners
>> 
>> I never use an antenna tuner , on the MF and LF bands realmen use a 
>> scopematch at the
>> 
>> Output of the Power Amp and a matching device at the base ofthe vertical 
>> antenna – HI Hi.
>> 
>> 73 Ken K5DNL
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] CWT Calibration

2020-07-16 Thread Rick NK7I
On the presumption of a worst case (for me) simplex receiver condition 
for the other station, them filtered down to 50 Hz; I use XIT to not be 
zero beat (which used to be expected once upon a time) with no greater 
than 25 Hz offset (stay within that 50 Hz filter).  Then one must only 
look (P3) at the station the DX is currently working to see if plus or 
minus 25 Hz should be used.


Then watch patterns, does the other station move the receiver at all, 
switch plus for minus... is there a pattern?  (Random, never is).  
Paying attention to details means easier success rates.  ;-)


If split, use the same observations, but turn off XIT and use the other 
VFO for TX (allowing you to hear the station being worked as well).  
EVERY operator has a pattern, humans are just wired for consistency.  
Find it, predict it, make that contact.


73,
Rick NK7I dit dit

On 7/16/2020 9:27 PM, ktalb...@gamewood.net wrote:

I use CWT to ensure that I do NOT zero beat the caller.  I want my signal to
be at a tone noticeably above or below that of everyone else (very important
to QRP op in a pileup). I haven't tried to quantify the hz/bar, I simply
tune to around 5 ticks away and it seems to work well.

Ken ke4rg


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Re: [Elecraft] K4 in production

2020-07-16 Thread Rick NK7I
"The plan" was to get a tilt tower, so I don't have to climb and that 
works great.


I also pre-paid for the KPA1500 and then once it arrived had to wait (2 
years) for the shack to be built (else no 240V).  I don't regret this 
because Elecraft HAS the reputation for being the best at product and 
service; they understand much better than the other brands.


No one has a guarantee to tomorrow, but there are signs of hope around.

73,
Rick NK7I

"It ain't the years darlin', it's the miles!"  Indiana Jones


On 7/16/2020 12:13 PM, rich hurd WC3T wrote:

Climb safely.

Thankfully, I've never had a chance to hazard that much money -- though I
did just get a backordered SharkRF OpenSpot3.  :)


On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 3:05 PM WILLIE BABER  wrote:


If I had the money to put up in advance I would "front" the money to
Elecraft, based on the K3. And I did purchased kpa1500 in advance.

I purchased Orion before it was produced based on most of the previous
Tentec radio too.

But I confess that while I do turn 70 years old in September, I am in
excellent shape, still climbing towers.

Time can be an important factor, but who doesn't know that?

73, will, wj9b







CWops #1085
CWA Advisor levels II and III
http://cwops.org/


On Thursday, July 16, 2020, 12:35:53 PM MDT, rich hurd WC3T 
wrote:


 From where I sit on the Right Coast, I'd be reluctant to front ANYONE that
amount of cash, reputation notwithstanding.  Heck, George Z at Packtenna
couldn't until recently even get the antenna wire from Wireman.  Stuff
happens.  Supply chains bend and break.

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 2:05 PM Carl Yaffey  wrote:


Hence my frustration. I not only am impatient about getting the Shiny
(surprise), I feel deceived about how it has been handled by someone
sitting on thousands of dollars of my cash.

Scott


What? We’re not getting interest?
73 K8NU

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--
72,
Rich Hurd / WC3T / DMR: 3142737
Northampton County RACES, EPA-ARRL Public Information Officer for Scouting
Latitude: 40.761621 Longitude: -75.288988  (40°45.68' N 75°17.33' W) Grid:
*FN20is*

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Re: [Elecraft] K4 in production

2020-07-16 Thread Rick NK7I
Given the on/off, cancel/restart mother may I, only with a mask 
situation in CA (often spelled P_O_L_I_T_I_C_S), it's a wonder they're 
doing as much as they have.  That tap dance is on a very thin high wire 
with no net.


Now consider that many parts do not come from the US, some of the 
sources are from countries we're bickering with (see spelling above, 
subtitle tariff), the parts that ARE here can't be put into boards that 
can't be made because other businesses are less 'essential' (defined in 
no law whatsoever)... all resolves to:


They're doing what they are allowed to do under the conditions they 
face.  And doing it well, the Elecraft way.  This'll take a while so 
patience is required.


If you truly feel deceived, cancel your order and let the next in line 
move up a slot.  I'm sure they be appreciative.


Rick NK7I
Another CA escapee and I don't miss it for a moment


On 7/16/2020 10:55 AM, Tox wrote:

Given lead times, if the Dec/Jan ship date was not BS, then parts would
already have already been in transit before primary covid impacts were in
place. OK, that was missed.

I understand these are not normal times. And I live in Santa Clara County,
understand current density and watch county #s (and Health Orders being
ignored by the public).

That they aren't shipping on time now seems most immediately attributable
to covid, agreed. That this is the case is seems a result of either failure
to deliver or failure to honestly communicate last year.

We're now reaching the window of the most recent round of delivery
promises, yet I don't know anyone, including those who fronted cash a year
ago on a Nov date, who has even gotten final pricing yet.

Hence my frustration. I not only am impatient about getting the Shiny
(surprise), I feel deceived about how it has been handled by someone
sitting on thousands of dollars of my cash.

Scott

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 10:47 AM Fred Jensen  wrote:


Say again?  The virus began in Asia [Wuhan China to be exact] at the
very end of 2019.  Many of the parts that Elecraft and every other
manufacturer uses are sourced out of Asia.  Everyones' supply chains are
disrupted now but slowly improving.

Elecraft is based in California.  The population density in California
is high ... high enough that if everyone stood 1 meter from everyone
else, some would be standing in Nevada and some in the Pacific Ocean.
[:=)  From the news that leaks over the Sierra Nevada to Sparks,
Elecraft is really working to both resume normal production AND protect
their employees and families so they can continue normal production.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 7/16/2020 10:20 AM, Tox wrote:

The parts availability issue was supposed to have been resolved

pre-covid.

Wondering what the facts are.
(not griefing you, just frustrated by Nov,Dec/Jan,Mar/Apr,Jul/Aug
   string-along)

Scott


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Re: [Elecraft] Wayne's Story - "On Second Thought, I'll Take The Stairs"

2020-07-12 Thread Rick NK7I
You’ve just defined the vast majority of DX (and DXpedition in particular) 
contacts. 

That doesn’t make less a part of ham radio. 

Rick NK7I

Email spiel Czech corruptions happen

> On Jul 12, 2020, at 4:54 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
>  wrote:
> 
> ... but if all you're doing is meeting the somewhat arbitrary minimum that 
> defines a QSO, what's the point?
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 max heat sink temp?

2020-07-08 Thread Rick NK7I
I have both.  I've had the KPA500 much longer of course and it's nice.  
Small, concise and quiet, perfect for closest stations (tight spaces).


Having the KAT500 (essentially) built into one package with the 1500 
watt amp (less cabling but one less antenna port too than the KAT500) 
with legal (US) limit is awesome, meaning full range from 0.1-1500 watts 
out (with overhead, not straining, don't ask ;-) oops).


Since I moved to strictly resonant antennas, the KPA1500 tuner is being 
used only as an antenna switch, the fan noise isn't awful (the 12V 60A 
power supply fan on the other hand... wow!), but since that 240V circuit 
isn't on the house generator, when the power goes out, it'll be a quick 
swap to put the KPA500/KAT500 back into play.  It's nice to have options.


With the KPA500, one must still use finesse, with the KPA1500, one 
shouts "Mongo hungry; feed Mongo!" (movie reference).  I strongly 
suspect that the KPA1500 will integrate so well into the K4 it'll simply 
be amazing, outstanding,  (I'll find out later 
this summer).


Each has it's place, if we ever get out of house arrest and back to 
having DXPeditions.  My logbook is beginning to sound like hungry 
Mongo...  band slots, while tasty, do not make a meal.


73,
Rick NK7I


On 7/8/2020 5:08 PM, Eric Norris wrote:
Actually, I have, Rick.  The KPA1500 is the second greatest amplifier 
in the history of the solar system.   It's a BattleBot, a monster, the 
doomsday legal-limit amplifier.  But the KPA500 is tiny, and so quiet 
that I can run it in the same room where the XYL watches TV.  My cat 
"Bubs" McLovin does not even stir from his dreams of taking down a 
Cape Buffalo when the KPA500 hits FAN3.


73 Eric WD6DBM

On Wed, Jul 8, 2020, 2:34 PM Rick Bates, NK7I <mailto:rick.n...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Then you haven't used a KPA1500.

Rick NK7I


On 7/8/2020 2:11 PM, Eric Norris wrote:
> Thanks, Jack!  Now the only question is, is the KPA500 a great
amp, or the
> greatest amp ever?  I'm in the second camp.
>
> 73.5  Eric WD6DBM
>
> On Wed, Jul 8, 2020, 1:16 PM Jack Brindle mailto:jackbrin...@me.com>> wrote:
>
>> I can confirm that KPA500 V1.00 firmware, which was the first
released,
>> had a max temperature of 90 degrees C. This has not been
changed in any
>> subsequent code.
>>
>> As for the input power, the amplifier has improved over time.
My original
>> prototype KPA500 requires power in the range described (about
35 - 40
>> watts), while my new one (just over a year old) needs about 20
or so watts.
>> Both are great amps!
>>
>> 73!
>> Jack, W6FB
>>
>>
>>> On Jul 8, 2020, at 1:00 PM, William Hammond via Elecraft <
>> elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>> wrote:
>>> Hi Eric, My manual (revision B, 2011) that came with my SN
0149 says 90C
>> maximum, page14 in the specifications.  It also says drive
power 30-40
>> watts for 500 out and I have never beed even close to that,
usually 22-26
>> watts drive.
>>> FYI,
>>> Bill-AK5X
>>>
>>>> On Jul 8, 2020, at 6:00 AM, Eric Norris
mailto:norrislawfi...@gmail.com>>
>> wrote:
>>>> I just read in the current KPA500 Manual that max heat sink
temp is 90C.
>>>> Is this true for my first-year production KPA500?  I seem to
remember
>>>> somethink like 75C.  I cant find my old manual.
>>>>
>>>> 73 Eric WD6DBM
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<m

Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software

2020-06-23 Thread Rick NK7I

Lyn,

You can try restarting the utility; sometimes if you push the front 
buttons (power on/off, standby), the app gets out of sync for the KPA500.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 6/23/2020 4:50 PM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Nope.  "Should be" is not how it works.  I have discussed this with Support, 
and it would require constant polling ... which they cannot do.

Once you turn it OFF with the front panel switch, it needs to be turned on the 
same way.  After that, yes the utility is fully functional.

73
Lyn, W0LEN



-Original Message-
From: Jack Brindle [mailto:jackbrin...@me.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 5:16 PM
To: l...@lnainc.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software

Take another look. You should be able to power on/off the KPA500 using the 
front power button as well as through the KPA Utility. The Utility does a great 
job of detecting the KPA500’s current data rate whether it is on or off (the 
two rates may be different) and will communicate at the proper rate to power 
the amplifier  on or off using the ON/OFF button in the Operate panel.

Turning the back panel switch to the OFF position will, of course, disable the 
ability to power on the amplifier using wither the KPA Utility or the front 
panel pushbutton.

73!
Jack, W6FB



On Jun 23, 2020, at 2:18 PM, Lyn Norstad  wrote:

I meant to follow up on this sooner, but … so here’s what I found with the 
KPA500 and KPA Utility Rev 1.13.7.16.  First, the KPA500 rear power switch 
must, of course, remain in the ON position at all times.



Once the KPA500 has been powered on with the Front panel switch (and 
communications is set up properly between the computer and the KPA500), in 
order to have ON/OFF control from the utility app, the KPA500 must never be 
turned OFF from the front panel switch.



It’s OK to use the other front panel controls (including STANDBY/OPERATE), just 
not the ON/OFF power button.



73

Lyn, W0LEN





-Original Message-
From: Lyn Norstad [mailto:l...@lnainc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 3:42 PM
To: 'Gordon LaPoint'; 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software



If you're running Windows, yes I know how to do that.  But keep in mind that 
the KPA Utility will not connect to the KPA500 unless the amp is first powered 
on.



To have the programs start on boot, just drag them into the Windows "Startup" 
folder (I am on Windows 7).



In Windows 10, search "Startup Apps."



73

Lyn, W0LEN



-Original Message-

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gordon LaPoint

Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 1:45 PM

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Subject: [Elecraft] KAT500 Remote software and KPA500 remote software



Can these remote software's be in host mode on startup?  I run a remote

and would like to have them connect to the hardware and be in host mode

on boot of the computer.  Right now I just log on remotely and start

each one as needed.



Thanks,



Gordon - N1MGO



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Re: [Elecraft] Looking to add LP700 to KPA1500 - ideas?

2020-05-20 Thread Rick NK7I
The KAT500 (and utility) can show the values used by the tuner to match 
the 50 ohm impedance of the radio.  Similar is possible either via the 
KPA1500 utility or the front panel of the KPA1500.


While it doesn't show the complex load; it gives enough to begin to 
figure out what the antenna is presenting (for use in apps like WinSmith 
etc) so one can make intelligent changes in the antenna.


I've used the utility for monitoring (and remote control) of the 
KPA500/KAT500 combo for years; now I'm using the KPA1500 utility for the 
same reason.


The KPA1500 presents a lot more useful information on the front panel 
(click on the menu button then the down triangle to select the menu you 
want).  Because my antennas are resonant, I park the amp display at 
power out, efficiency, volts and amps used and temp.  The power out on 
the utility also shows the reflected power in watts, nice to know.


If you put the LP sensor between the amp and the (not resonant) antenna, 
any mismatch will likely give you erroneous readings that would offer no 
value.  It would compare the antenna value (say 150 ohms of mixed 
reactance/resistance) to the tuner value (whatever is required to match 
to 50 ohms).  The worse the unmatched condition, the more useless the 
display becomes.  It wants to see 50 ohm in, 50 ohm out to provide 
accurate power readings.


So if your antennas demand a matching circuit (tuner), the LP sensor 
becomes less valued at the output of the amp.


73,
Rick NK7I

On 5/20/2020 9:41 AM, Andy Durbin wrote:

"If it were mine, I would put the LP700 on the antenna line to monitor what is going 
on with the antenna itself."

My LP-100A is between my KPA500 and my KAT500.  I want to know what load is 
being presented to the KPA500.   Neither the KPA500 not the KAT500 can display 
complex load values.  Since the LP-500 and LP-700 are intended to sample 
amplifier RF input and amplifier RF output I would expect the amplifier output 
sampling to be performed before the tuner.  But no, I don't know how to do that 
with a KPA1500.  It would seem to require an internal modification and two 
additional rear panel connectors.

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] K4???

2020-05-15 Thread Rick NK7I
They have given exactly that response you seek without being repetitive, 
via this reflector and their emailed newsletters (have you subscribed to 
that?).  My K4 order will be delayed until other needs have been met, 
but I've been watching closely since it was announced.  One must simply 
pay attention.


They can't assemble from parts they can't get; they can't sell without 
assembly.  What more do you expect of them?


Rick NK7I


On 5/15/2020 1:40 PM, Tom Doligalski via Elecraft wrote:

All I have asked is honest information. Sad that Elecraft fails to respond to 
customers, especially those who have placed advance deposits.

Sent from my iPad


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Re: [Elecraft] K4???

2020-05-15 Thread Rick NK7I
I'm sure when they have something worth saying, it will be said; 
continuing on what they've done to date.  They are never prone to the 
blah blah updates of other companies but give out new or updated info 
when they have it, as always.  It's clear, concise, to the point and not 
redundant; refreshing for a company to provide it's customers; with 
minimal sales ego too.


With most of the planet on hold, they're doing what can be done (with CA 
issuing one of the more Draconian mandates to it's subjects) and made it 
clear that they're as frustrated as you clearly are; they want to get 
back into the business of selling their products and helping customers.  
They're also wise enough to know that no one can DEMAND information from 
suppliers; it's bad business and no one really knows yet, these waters 
are untested.


Recap:  When they have something of merit to say, they will, as they 
always have.


[Rumbles from knowledgeable sources have been heard in CA that the house 
arrest will continue there through Aug.  That likely puts shipping off 
for this year if/when Elecraft can ramp up at that time.  But NO ONE 
knows yet.]


Suck it up, the rest of us are going through the same things with little 
to no whining.


I suggest a socially distant walk in the sunlight (which kills the virus 
AND calms the spirit); repeat often.


Try to have a better day,
Rick NK7I


On 5/15/2020 11:54 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


Don't put words in my mouth ... I never said anything about lies or 
deception.  And your post is exactly the kind of "status report" that 
is useless to anyone who cares.


I'd bet money that most of what Elecraft has ordered has some sort of 
projected delivery date, even if it is out many weeks.  In fact, I'd 
bet that they demand it (even if speculative) from their suppliers.  
And Elecraft must have some idea how long it would take for them to 
restart assembly once they get parts and supplies.  It seems like it 
would be possible to give a rough K4 delivery guestimate based upon 
that information even it is was subject to weekly or monthly change.  
As it stands now, people like W4KX don't have a clue whether they will 
get their K4 before the end of the year even if California opens up in 
June.  That seems unreasonable to me for a $4,000 investment.


You can spin this any way you want, but like I said, it doesn't 
require hand holding from anybody other than a clerk with access to 
Wayne or Eric to send out an update with an actual time frame 
associated with it.


Dave  AB7E



On 5/15/2020 11:25 AM, Rick NK7I wrote:

Then here is your weekly status report:

They're working on improving the firmware (notes posted to the 
reflector a couple DAYS ago made note of this).
They're having (like much of the world) issues in getting hard dates 
for the bits and pieces to make more K4 (newsletter last month).
When released from house arrest, they will be back at the job 
awaiting the parts they've ordered so they can build more (newsletter).

When that is going to be, is anyone's guess for CA.  (Duh)

Repeat reading this weekly as needed, until there is a change. I'd 
rather they continue to make a quality product instead of hand 
holding.  I've gone through this a couple times for new Elecraft 
gear, it requires patience.


The rest of us understand this; it is the birthing pangs of a complex 
new product multiplied by the COVID19 situation.  There is no 
deception, no lying but file it under "S" because "Stuff" happens.  ;-P


Rick NK7I


On 5/15/2020 11:13 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


All of that is true, except that it doesn't take somebody like Wayne 
or Eric or any of their engineers to draft a weekly status report to 
those who have put down a deposit.  Anybody who speaks with them 
regularly could do it.  I haven't ordered a K4 and don't know if I 
ever will, but I'd be pretty upset to have put down that much money 
for ANY item with this little regular feedback on its shipping 
status since I can't think of a good excuse for it.  From what I've 
seen, just about every status email from Elecraft has talked about 
K4 feature issues instead of when it might actually be delivered ... 
so no, I don't think that's being very transparent.  A year is a 
very long time to have your money tied up, and along with that comes 
some measure of responsibility to account for it.


73,
Dave   AB7E


On 5/15/2020 10:08 AM, David Herring wrote:
A lot of us are in the same place you are, but Eric & Wayne have 
been transparent about how long this was going to take and why for 
the last year or so. Last I heard the K4 was to have been shipping 
by now, BUT that's kind of hard to do when one’s county and state 
have shut down one's manufacturing plant due to coronavirus. IMHO a 
bit beyond Eric & Wayne’s control at this point…


73,
David - N5DCH

On May 15, 2020, at 9:52 AM, Tom Doligalski via Elecraft 
 wrote:


It has been exactly 52 weeks since I placed an order for t

Re: [Elecraft] K4???

2020-05-15 Thread Rick NK7I

Then here is your weekly status report:

They're working on improving the firmware (notes posted to the reflector 
a couple DAYS ago made note of this).
They're having (like much of the world) issues in getting hard dates for 
the bits and pieces to make more K4 (newsletter last month).
When released from house arrest, they will be back at the job awaiting 
the parts they've ordered so they can build more (newsletter).

When that is going to be, is anyone's guess for CA.  (Duh)

Repeat reading this weekly as needed, until there is a change. I'd 
rather they continue to make a quality product instead of hand holding.  
I've gone through this a couple times for new Elecraft gear, it requires 
patience.


The rest of us understand this; it is the birthing pangs of a complex 
new product multiplied by the COVID19 situation.  There is no deception, 
no lying but file it under "S" because "Stuff" happens.  ;-P


Rick NK7I


On 5/15/2020 11:13 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


All of that is true, except that it doesn't take somebody like Wayne 
or Eric or any of their engineers to draft a weekly status report to 
those who have put down a deposit.  Anybody who speaks with them 
regularly could do it.  I haven't ordered a K4 and don't know if I 
ever will, but I'd be pretty upset to have put down that much money 
for ANY item with this little regular feedback on its shipping status 
since I can't think of a good excuse for it.  From what I've seen, 
just about every status email from Elecraft has talked about K4 
feature issues instead of when it might actually be delivered ... so 
no, I don't think that's being very transparent.  A year is a very 
long time to have your money tied up, and along with that comes some 
measure of responsibility to account for it.


73,
Dave   AB7E


On 5/15/2020 10:08 AM, David Herring wrote:
A lot of us are in the same place you are, but Eric & Wayne have been 
transparent about how long this was going to take and why for the 
last year or so. Last I heard the K4 was to have been shipping by 
now, BUT that's kind of hard to do when one’s county and state have 
shut down one's manufacturing plant due to coronavirus. IMHO a bit 
beyond Eric & Wayne’s control at this point…


73,
David - N5DCH

On May 15, 2020, at 9:52 AM, Tom Doligalski via Elecraft 
 wrote:


It has been exactly 52 weeks since I placed an order for the K4, 
with a full deposit.


I truly understand all of the current difficulties, but would 
appreciate a status report.


Tom W4KX


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 Issues

2020-05-15 Thread Rick NK7I
That implies that the AUX cable is not working.  Cycle the gear power 
and make sure each connector is properly seated.


Rick NK7I


On 5/15/2020 11:07 AM, Edward via Elecraft wrote:

I have the combo K3S/KAT500/KPA500 with all of the optional interconnection 
cables.

I am not able to key the amp though it was working earlier. The asterisk does 
not appear in the display.

I went through the menu and everything is set accordingly. The inhibit is 
disabled.

Any help would be appreciated.

73,
Ed NI6S
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Re: [Elecraft] K4???

2020-05-15 Thread Rick NK7I
They gave an update here a couple weeks ago and have done so previously 
too in newsletters (that you must sign up to get).


These are the usual sources for information, it pays to give them some 
attention.  They have been forthcoming and open; they're as stuck with 
house arrest as the rest of us.


Rick NK7I


On 5/15/2020 10:22 AM, Tom Doligalski via Elecraft wrote:

I agree, but am quite disappointed about the lack of direct communication from 
Elecraft with folks who have put money down. I haven’t heard directly from 
anyone at Elecraft since January 16 (and that after my instigation).

Sent from my iPad


On May 15, 2020, at 1:08 PM, David Herring  wrote:

A lot of us are in the same place you are, but Eric & Wayne have been transparent 
about how long this was going to take and why for the last year or so. Last I heard the 
K4 was to have been shipping by now, BUT that's kind of hard to do when one’s county 
and state have shut down one's manufacturing plant due to coronavirus. IMHO a bit 
beyond Eric & Wayne’s control at this point…

73,
David - N5DCH


On May 15, 2020, at 9:52 AM, Tom Doligalski via Elecraft 
 wrote:

It has been exactly 52 weeks since I placed an order for the K4, with a full 
deposit.
I truly understand all of the current difficulties, but would appreciate a 
status report.
Tom W4KX
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/KX2 remote for FD

2020-05-14 Thread Rick NK7I
If it were NOT a contest, there would be NO reason to post standings in 
the QST magazine because 'points' would have no meaning.


Rick NK7I


On 5/14/2020 11:17 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

 From ARRL - At its core, Field Day is a local event and an opportunity for 
local amateur radio clubs to showcase the skills, science and technologies that 
make radio communication such a wonderful hobby and a valuable public service.

I see nothing about this being a contest.

Bob, K4TAX




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Re: [Elecraft] K3S -Low Audio Output

2020-05-13 Thread Rick NK7I

Kenwood, 8 pin round but use the K3/S menu to turn the 'button' feature off.

Rick NK7I


On 5/13/2020 11:53 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 5/13/2020 11:43 AM, Edward via Elecraft wrote:

I plugged in an Icom mic.


The three JA mfrs use the same mic connector but different pin 
connections, making them incompatible. Elecraft adapted one of them, 
don't recall which. Pinout is in Elecraft manuals.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Some K4 updates from the engineering department

2020-04-19 Thread Rick NK7I
Simpler yet, use an appropriate size  (for your desk) tablet to manage the K4.  
Then take that with you when you’re in another room, traveling, etc. 

Rick NK7I

Smell Czech corruptions are inevitable

> On Apr 19, 2020, at 1:11 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> When I read about the touch controls, I suddenly had an image in my mind of 
> a small touch tablet on the desk that had all the controls on it that were on 
> the K4 display.
> Kind of a touch panel Kpod...
> 
> Jack BMW Motorcycles
> Chuck KE9UW
> c-haw...@illinois.edu
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Apr 19, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
>> 
>> Greetings from locked-down California I hope everyone, near and far, is 
>> staying safe!
>> 
>> I thought I'd take a break from playing with the K4 and tweaking firmware to 
>> give everyone a status report from the engineering side. (Eric has been 
>> keeping everyone informed about how Elecraft has been affected by the 
>> pandemic more generally.)
>> 
>> These musings are in no particular order. I hope they help satisfy those who 
>> recently posted with questions, info-cravings, etc.
>> 
>> * * *
>> 
>> Reference Oscillator
>> 
>> The K4 includes a stable internal TXCO, standard, as well as the ability to 
>> lock to an external 10 MHz reference. We just completed a round of testing 
>> on this feature. 
>> 
>> The internal TCXO is accurate to within +/- .28 ppm with no calibration and 
>> no external reference connected. There's a menu entry for dialing this in as 
>> tight as +/- .02 PPM (+/- 1 Hz at 50 MHz). Connecting an external reference 
>> will hold it even closer, and of course keep it there over an even wider 
>> temperature range.
>> 
>> Panadapter Controls
>> 
>> Thanks to the efforts of our [working-at-home] software team, the panadapter 
>> controls just keep getting better. When you tap DISPLAY, you're presented 
>> with 14 easy to use display functions. But we took things a step further by 
>> allowing you to specify whether to adjust the current parameter on LCD, EXT, 
>> or both (when an external monitor is attached), and on main, sub, or both 
>> (when in dual-display mode). You can independently specify single or 
>> dual-pan for LCD and external monitor. For example, you could have dual-Pan 
>> on a large HDMI monitor, while setting the LCD to monitor just main or sub 
>> RX.
>> 
>> Stereo Audio
>> 
>> Receive audio provides independent left and right channels for both 
>> headphones and external speakers. When used in single-receive mode, this 
>> allows you to use simulated stereo or "pitch mapping"-- both very effective 
>> at relieving listening fatigue. I've been using this a lot in DXing and QRP 
>> work. Full stereo also comes into play in diversity mode, when listening to 
>> pileups, or just monitoring two separate bands. Even with a basic K4, the 
>> two receivers can be set to any two bands, and you can operate cross-band 
>> split. The K4D adds a second set of band-pass filters and a second A-to-D 
>> converter to greatly improve out-of-band rejection when monitoring different 
>> bands.
>> 
>> Receive Antenna Controls
>> 
>> We recently made some improvements in this area. In addition to main RX ant 
>> and sub RX ant selection switches, there are now separate icons showing 
>> which antennas are in use: one for main RX, one for sub RX, and one for TX 
>> antenna. Main and sub receivers default to the TX antenna, but you can 
>> select any of the antenna jacks for assignment to each receiver 
>> independently. This updates the icons accordingly. You can also assign names 
>> to antenna ports using a pop-up alphanumeric keyboard. On my K4, I have 
>> names for the three antennas connected to my KAT4 ATU, as well as "SIG GEN" 
>> for the RX ANT IN 1 jack and "LOOP" for RX ANT IN 2. 
>> 
>> RF Gain Controls
>> 
>> The ATTN switch brings up a selection tool that allows you to turn the 
>> attenuator on/off and select attenuation from 0 to 21 dB in 3-dB steps. (As 
>> with all receive and transmit controls, these settings are stored per-band 
>> and per-receiver.) You can also dial in per-receiver RF GAIN (0 to -60 dB, 
>> with digital readout) and preamp setting (off/pre1/pre2). All gain settings 
>> are now taken into account when calculating S-meter and panadapter reference 
>> levels.
>> 
>> Miscellaneous Controls
>> 
>> Compared the the K3S, the K4 has numerous additional controls, resulting in 
>> a lot

Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

2020-04-05 Thread Rick NK7I
Yes it matters.  The short version is that your receiving ability may exceed 
that of the other stations noise floor. 

Just because my noise floor is generally -130 or quieter doesn’t mean their 
noise is equally quiet.   If they can’t reduce noise further, you need to 
present more signal.

With my quiet environment I base my output power on the signal I receive, if 
loud, low output; if weak, ramp it up.  

Rick NK7I

Smell Czech corruptions are inevitable

> On Apr 5, 2020, at 6:09 AM, brianchapn...@rogers.com wrote:
> 
> My only rig is a kx3 so I have no experience at high power. With digital 
> modes, does it matter at the receiving end whether the signal is -15db or 
> 1db? Will not both signals be decoded the same way?  With high power is it 
> your practice to start with lower levels and work your way up or do you go 
> for broke from the start? I understand the advantage of higher power with 
> modes that you actually have to use your ears to make sense of things.
> 
> Brian VE3GMZ 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent via BlackBerry Hub+ Inbox for Android
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Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

2020-04-04 Thread Rick NK7I
Because it’s weak signal at the receiving end; you use what power it takes to 
succeed in making the contact, up to the legal limit. 

On 160M, 1500 watts out is common. 

Rick NK7I

Smell Czech corruptions are inevitable

> On Apr 4, 2020, at 9:02 PM, brianchapnick  wrote:
> 
> This discussion fascinates me only in that I wonder why you are using so 
> much power for weak signal modes? 5 or 10 watts should be plenty even with a 
> compromised antenna and poor band conditions..or am I missing 
> somthing.Brian VE3GMZ Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>  Original message From: Bob McGraw K4TAX 
>  Date: 2020-04-04  8:19 p.m.  (GMT-05:00) To: 
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 
> 100? Frank et al;Just quoted what is in the K3S manual.   No interpretation 
> provided.   I agree that 100 watts key down is a lot for a SSB amplifier 
> running in CW mode.   To me that says 100 watts for 10 minutes and then RX 
> for 10 minutes.   Otherwise equal TX and RX times.   Who does that?And if one 
> is running "100 watts" then running CW or SSB for 10 minutes might be the 
> limit.  Just speculation.   On AM I might talk for 10 minutes but that is at 
> 25% rated power output for carrier, yet it is 100 watts PEP.   The 60 C is MY 
> guideline. The KPA3A will shut down about 85 C or so.On 6M I run my KPA500 at 
> about 300 to 400 watts.  The K3S is running about 25 to 30 watts on 6M.   At 
> this point I'm watching the KPA500 temperature.There is NO DX worth blowing a 
> PA either in the K3S or the KPA500.But I know guys that will blow things 
> up, pushing things to the max and beyond  trying to work that DX station.  I 
> say bah humbug to that!I just pay attention to the PA temp, specially when 
> running digital modes. Likewise for the KPA500.73Bob, K4TAXOn 4/4/2020 3:41 
> PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:> Thanks for the replies.>> I've enabled the PA 
> temp display (currently showing 22C right after > power-up but before 
> transmitting), and will keep an eye on that.>> Bob, I noticed that line in 
> the K3S manual about the CW/SSB duty > cycle. Does "100% - 10 min, 100 W 
> key-down" mean that if you key down > without stop in CW mode it can go 10 
> minutes at 100 watts? That seems > like an awful lot.>> Where do the 
> recommended TPO's for 6 meters, the 50% value for JT9, > and the 60C 
> guideline for the PA temp come from?>> Thanks again,>> Frank K6FOD>>> On 
> 4/4/20 6:22 AM, John Simmons wrote:>> Fred Cady's book:>>>> "There are four 
> fans speeds that turn on at different temperatures.">> "If the temperature 
> reaches 84 degrees C the KPA3 will be bypassed >> until the temperature falls 
> to stop any damage as a last-ditch backup >> measure to protect your 
> expensive power transistors from the excess >> heat.">>>> -de John NI0K>>>>>> 
> Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote on 4/3/2020 6:39 PM:>>> Frank:>>>>>> The duty cycle 
> for the transmitter, as stated in the manual, is;  CW >>> and SSB modes, 100% 
> - 10 min, 100 W key-down at 25C ambient.   Do >>> note that 6M has reduce 
> power values of 85 watts {51 -52 MHz} or 70 >>> watts {52 - 54 MHz}>>>>>> The 
> duty cycle for JT-9, 1 minute transmit, 1 minute receive would >>> be 50%.   
> I frequently run 100 watts on WSJT-X FT-8 with no issues.  >>> Just pay 
> attention to PA temperature.  It should be 60 C or less.   >>> Also this is 
> with FANS in the automatic mode.>>>>>> 73>>>>>> Bob, K4TAX>>>>>>>>> On 
> 4/3/2020 4:18 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:>>>> I've been using JT9 mode on 630m 
> this winter with my K3S outputting >>>> to an external class D amp.>>>>>>>> 
> Now I'm interested in trying some JT9 QSOs with some people >>>> currently 
> operating on 160m. For me this would mean outputting >>>> directly from the 
> K3S (with internal tuner) to the antenna.>>>>>>>> Given the 1-minute cycle 
> time for JT9, are there recommendations >>>> (official from Elecraft, or 
> otherwise) on maximum power to use in a >>>> situation like this? And/or, is 
> the answer dependent on the SWR I >>>> can achieve with the antenna?>>>>>>>> 
> Thanks and 73,>>>>>>>> Frank K6FOD>> 
> __> Elecraft 
> mai

Re: [Elecraft] K3 on SSB

2020-03-29 Thread Rick NK7I
Ah, the brand wars re-emerge again...

While every brand must be tailored to the operators voice and use (rag chew vs 
DXing), it has been my observation that the K3 is certainly a cleaner 
transmitter on phone than most Yaesu transmitters which are generally wider 
using both side bands (easily seen on a P3) if not precisely set up.   Some 
contesters prefer that, as it ‘opens up’ bandwidth, giving them a clear space 
to call. 

It’s either a ‘feature’ of how the Yaesu is set up or several poor operators or 
the brand.  I don’t suggest the brand at all anymore, when asked. 

The Anan and Flex are among the cleanest, sheer cliff walls of audio. 

Rick NK7I

Small phone keyboard, smell Czech corruptions are inevitable

> On Mar 29, 2020, at 10:48 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> Previous posts suggest a consensus, or at least a widely-held opinion, that 
> the K3 is below par on SSB.  I have owned one for years, using it more than 
> 95% on CW, and on SSB in only one contest and a few casual ragchews and nets. 
>  In what ways is the K3 inferior to others on SSB?  Yes, this is a question, 
> not an argument.  And is the K4 designed to correct whatever those flaws may 
> be?  I have not yet ordered a K4.  Knowing this info would be helpful to that 
> decision.  Tnx,
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] Using KAT-500 without BAND Information

2020-01-08 Thread Rick NK7I
True but there are tuning solutions that appear safe at low power yet exceed 
the amp return voltage allowances at high power (it isn’t the best tuning mix) 
and trip the amp. 

The amp is re-enabled as soon as the tuning is completed, a risk. 

So it’s wise to at least test the match after tuning, with the amp on, with 
just the tuning energy and if ok (medium power out of the amp), then raise to 
the desired level of output for a ‘final’ test.  At least until the tuner has 
been programmed for all bins in each band. 

Using resonant antennas is SO much simpler. 

Rick NK7I

Smell Czech corruptions are inevitable

> On Jan 8, 2020, at 6:51 PM, Lyn Norstad  wrote:
> 
> Jack -
> 
> I don't see any need to do that.  The tuner cuts the amp until the new 
> antenna is tuned.
> 
> 73
> Lyn, WØLEN
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