Stus-List Re: Haul Out Question

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I like this suggestion, I always worry about keeping the foil straight.  One 
trick that a lot of people around here use is to get a few packages of kitchen 
plastic wrap and use it to wrap around the mast, lines and foil along the 
length of the mast.  It’s surprisingly good protection and very cheap and easy 
to use.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2021 8:15:09 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Haul Out Question

An easy way to secure the furler to the mast (if you have a deck-steppedast) is 
to put a length of lumber (I use a 2x3 - it fits nicely), about 2-3 ft, into 
the bottom of the mast, and then strap the furler drum to that lumber. This 
prevents the furler foil from bending.

Your yard would likely know how, but you want to have someone at the bow to 
walk the furler outside of your railings (to protect the deck}.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
Date: 2021-11-13 08:44 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Brian Morrison 
Subject: Stus-List Haul Out Question

Hello CnCers,

I’m hauling out for the winter at a new boat yard. I’m having the mast pulled 
to do some work. I’ve never pulled the mast with the furling drum. I was 
wondering if the drum stays attached to the forestay, remains on the bow or is 
completely removed. Appreciate any responses.

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
1979 C 34
Rekofa
Fells Point, MD

On Nov 12, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:



Not only cheaper and faster, Schaefer makes quality, robust products.



From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2021 1:40 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves



The boom sheaves are a stock Schaefer item. They were OEM parts. Cheapest and 
probably fastest option.



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

American Family has my cars, boats and house insured, and I also have an 
umbrella liability with them.  They require that you have car insurance with 
them to purchase the liability policy, but once you have it, it applies to 
everything.  It came up with a claim a few years ago, so I know it applies to 
boating.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 12:57:10 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance


All the umbrella policies I found with a quick search seem to be home and car, 
no mention of boats ☹

Be glad you aren’t looking for airplane insurance, the recent payouts on 
crashed 737s are getting paid for by EVERYONE, not just 737 owners.



Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA







From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 9:32 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance



I suggest anyone reviewing their insurance coverages investigate an umbrella 
policy.  I have a significant umbrella policy that will kick in in the event 
the coverage on any of my individual policies is exceeded.



One caveat for umbrella policies is they are usually cheaper if you have all 
your policies with one carrier.



--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA



On Thu, Oct 14, 2021 at 8:23 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Great news 
My marina requires $500K liability this year, so when I added it I didn’t 
realize I was propagating it across all three of my policies. I now have what I 
think is the only dinghy in the world with half a million dollars of insurance.

For all three boats it added up to $84/year extra. The dinghy is also insured 
for 75 miles offshore, which would be quite the trip!



Joe

Coquina C 35 MK I






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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Panel rewire

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Adam,

Beautiful work, I am envious!  Thanks for sharing.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI



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From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2021 7:45:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Adam Hayden 
Subject: Stus-List Panel rewire

Hello

You may remember a few months ago I asked some questions about rewiring the 
panel. I appreciate the advice at that time.  After approx 50 hours I am mostly 
done, it's not perfect but vastly improved.  I built a harness from the panel 
switches to my converted cutting board (it was almost the right size and cost 
$7.00 as I didn't want to use plywood) distribution system.  All connectors 
were replaced, properly crimped and insulated heat shrink to seal the 
connectors.

 I still have some heat shrink on the main cables (the elec tape is temp while 
testing circuits  tonight )and a bit of tidying/labeling to do.

Here are some before and almost complete pictures.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/nwdix2tprxtwrei/AACZ-0O_x9uw95LgakLVR1xHa

This should be a little easier if I need to trace circuits.

Adam Hayden
C
Pictou NS

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Refrigerator Door Seal

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Thanks Neil!  I see them, looks like a great solution!  Nice talking with you 
last week, thanks for the tip.

Jim

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From: schiller via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2021 8:49:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Refrigerator Door Seal

Jim,

I use "Fridgemate" fans that you can get at any RV store.  I run them 24/7 for 
the Lake Michigan summer on two D Cell batteries.  Easier than wiring another 
circuit.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan

On 3/27/2021 10:31 AM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List wrote:
Bill,

Thanks, that is in stock locally, I will go take a look.  I have some muffin 
fans in my parts bin and will look at wiring one of those in as well.  Thanks 
all for the great suggestions!

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 9:32:49 AM
To: 'Stus-List' <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bill Coleman <mailto:colt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Refrigerator Door Seal




This might be it,

https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-20-ft-Black-Door-Seal-Silicone-Door-Weatherstrip/1099657



I had good luck with a silicone seal that I found I think it was at Lowe's. It 
was kind of oval shaped I think in Brown. It has a peel off strip that exposes 
an adhesive. The nice thing about it is that it never takes a set. It is always 
flexible & tight

Bill Coleman







Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I would agree with the vote for oil over polyurethane or varnish and certainly 
Cetol.  We used Watco teak oil for a while but did not like the smell, though 
it did give good results. For the last several years we have been using a 
product called Howard Feed n Wax that is beeswax and orange oil.  We typically 
get a season out of it with no dirt issues and a pleasant orange smell.  I just 
ordered another bottle on Amazon and would recommend it.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:18:27 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

Another vote for Old English lemon oil. IMO teak is not intended to be 
urethaned or any of the other. Just sets you up for more maintenance, 
stripping, scraping, etc, which is contrary to using teak in the first place.  
Oil 2x each summer and looks like new. Wipe off excess and no dirt problems.

Jeff Laman
1981 C
Harmony

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From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:50:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Leaving interior Teak natural?

Dean
My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the 
V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I 
think), etc.

It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like new.  
I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the stuff I buy at 
the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil

Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I own a 
1984 C 32.

old english oil lemon - 
Bing

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:

Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak 
interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully 
removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m 
wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of 
oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating any 
exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or 
something else?



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Refrigerator Door Seal

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Bill,

Thanks, that is in stock locally, I will go take a look.  I have some muffin 
fans in my parts bin and will look at wiring one of those in as well.  Thanks 
all for the great suggestions!

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 9:32:49 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Refrigerator Door Seal




This might be it,

https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-20-ft-Black-Door-Seal-Silicone-Door-Weatherstrip/1099657



I had good luck with a silicone seal that I found I think it was at Lowe's. It 
was kind of oval shaped I think in Brown. It has a peel off strip that exposes 
an adhesive. The nice thing about it is that it never takes a set. It is always 
flexible & tight

Bill Coleman




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Refrigerator Door Seal

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hi All,

 

I enjoyed meeting a few you last night on the virtual rendezvous, thanks for
a nice chat!

 

One question for the group tonight.  My refrigerator ices up quickly in one
corner every season, so I suspect I need to find a way to get a better seal.
Has anyone found a source for a good gasket material for refrigerator doors?
I see a lot of the magnetic kind found on household refrigerators, but that
doesn't seem to be what I need.  Suggestions are welcome!

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I installed the MarineBeam unit several years ago to replace an AquaSignal that 
was not reliable.  It has worked well and held up beautifully thus far.  I 
would recommend it!

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: Matthew via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 8:16:37 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement


FWIW, I’ve had good results with Hella Marine nav lights as replacements.



Hella marine - Hella Marine



From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 8:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Stus-List Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement



Hello all,



I need to replace my masthead (steaming)/Deck Light.  The existing Aqua Signal 
light doesn't impress me as the deck light lens fell off at some point and the 
deck light didn't work.  So, Staying away from Aqua Signal.



I've been looking and these light range in price from around $100 all the way 
up to well over $500.  I've seem Marine Beam, with good reviews, at about $125 
and the Signal Mate, with good reviews at about $450.



I don't want to spend unnecessarily but, I'm leaning toward the Signal Mate.   
It was good reputation, been around a while and is supposed to be well made.  
Of course the reviews on the Marine beam say they are well made.  There are 
plenty of bad reviews about the aqua signal.



I was hoping some of you could offer some experiences and advise.



Thanks,

Danny
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

+1 on Gary’s solution.  Firewater came with these and I have used them for 
spring lines for years.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: Gary Newton via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 7:05:07 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Gary Newton 
Subject: Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=598
This what I use attached behind the lower stays/shrouds on the Genoa track

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 10, 2021, at 2:27 AM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
wrote:



A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a solution 
for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline placement. I’m 
currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which seems strong, but I’d 
like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. Haven’t seen anything in the 
catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a soft shackle through a rail hole 
might be a good fix. Given the general opinion that midship cleating is handy, 
I’m curious what you use.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Racing fleets and getting sailors to participate

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Our single fleet club is organized as a social racing club to distinguish us 
from the two brick and mortar clubs in our bay.  Our tag line is “Serious Fun, 
not Serious Racing”.  We generally get about 45 boats ranging from true racing 
machines to 22 foot cruisers using volunteer committee boats from the fleet.

Some of the things we do to keep things fun include the sliding PRHF as Bob 
describes.  In our version, the 1st, 2nd and 3rd place boats in each division 
lose 9, 6 and 3 points off their PHRF for the next week.  4th place stays the 
same and the rest of the fleet that raced gets an additional 2 points added.  
This keeps anybody from running away with a division, believe me!  We also run 
a mix of spinnaker and Jib/Main only races with a time penalty for using a 
spinnaker to keep things even.  This keeps the more advanced boats interested, 
but also maintains some balance with boats that either don’t have a spinnaker 
or don’t want to fly it.  Another provision is a guest skipper bonus, which is 
a half point deduction on the series score for any skipper that hops on a 
different boat for a race.  This has been great for new members that need a 
little mentoring.

The club is very protective of our reputation for welcoming new racers and we 
have actually asked overly aggressive boats to find another fleet at times.  We 
also run classes on racing, rules, committee boat duties and even boat 
maintenance to help our members stay in the sport.  Our website at 
www.mastracing.org also has a stripped down, common 
sense version of the rules available that one of our members wrote a while ago. 
 That is required reading for our membership and might be something you could 
use for those starting out.

In terms of why we race, when we started a big reason was to nudge us to use 
the boat at least once a week and stretch our comfort zone by going out in 
conditions that would not necessarily be attractive for a pleasure sail.  It’s 
evolved into a very social thing now, as over the years we have maneuvered our 
slip location to be near our fellow racers.  Pre-COVID, this resulted in some 
pretty impressive shared meals on the dock after the race and a general party 
atmosphere.  We race on Friday nights, which is also a factor in this.  On the 
whole, I think there is room for a lower stress racing series to try and lure 
more people into the sport and I would urge interested clubs to give it a try.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 3:29:33 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Racing fleets and getting sailors to participate

Sort of funny how all the egos go for the line i did it many times take him up 
no room to go up no protests nobody wants to go to protests. Fleet racing 
accidents happen. Then after the aggressive start line close packed maneuvers 
things spread out, crew loses focus and then another chance for collision at 
the first mark and so on and on and then maybe a bewildered and disgruntled 
crew afterwards talking about what went wrong. I am a dedicated cruiser now but 
i still love watching Americas Cup started following way back when Stars and 
Stripes and Dennis Connor was in the thick a lot of changes and new 
developments since then thats what i like and the presentations of races is so 
good nowadays its very exiting nothing at all like watching the grass grow or 
the paint dry and so very technical and experimental. Next races Prada Cup 
Final Luna Rossa vs Brittania feb 13-22

On Sat, Jan 30, 2021 at 4:26 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Video tape all starts from the committee boat and use these for review.  Always 
surprising how far from the line boats are at the start, especially in the 
middle of the line.

Our local group (multiple clubs in one organization) implemented golf-style 
handicapping last year. We call it Delta class.  Based on your result from last 
week your rating may change.  Unfortunately, I don't have more details on what 
they did but can put you in touch with someone.

Bob Mann
Detroit - DRYA
On 01/30/2021 9:58 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I noticed looking at Bill’s link about his spinnaker that his club has three 
racing fleets:  Spinnaker, Family JAM and Jib & Main .  I don’t know what those 
represent, but am curious.
I am in charge of racing for our club this year (for the first time) and one of 
the things I am looking into is whether we can increase participation in racing 
by our members.  One idea I am exploring is having a “green fleet” for those 
new to raicng to get them invoved in a low stress format (primarily start 
timing when you get to the line).  We would also have a pre and post race 
skippers meeting/discussion to talk about the race, rules, etc..
This 

Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Ray,

Have you considered just doing the painting less often and sticking with the 
VC?  I know a number of people that just use a Scotchbrite pad to remove some 
of the oxidation and go 2 years or more between coats.

In fresh water, it’s what most boat owners want to use and a boat that has 
another paint is less desirable at resale time.  It’s a quirky paint to apply, 
but once you get used to it, I’m not sure other paints are that much easier.  
Just my opinion, but having a previous boat grit blasted so I could use VC made 
me really appreciate my 30-2 already having VC-17/SR-21.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 4:51:51 PM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

Most paints will not stick over VC17. You have to remove all of it first, 
before applying a new bottom paint. I think Pettit makes a bottom paint remover 
that works well to remove VC17. Then sand and apply new paint.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YCs
Portland, OR



On Tue, Sep 8, 2020 at 1:31 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Everyone:

For the past several years, at the beginning of the season, I have been sanding 
the bottom and have painted it with VC-17.   I am no longer going to be racing. 
 It is fresh water boat.  I am reaching out to determine what bottom paint i 
should go with that is less work every year.  Please share your thoughts and 
opinions.

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
CNC33-2
MILWAUKEE, WI
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Stus-List Source for Waltec parts in the US?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

My Waltec 12 galley faucet is getting a bit leaky and hard to shut off.  I
know others have replaced their faucets but I don't relish that project.  I
would like to replace the cartridges, but Waltec appears to be a very
Canadian oriented brand and I don't see a source that will ship to the US
reasonably.  Anyone know of a good place to buy parts here?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List VHF Radio with Outside Extension Mic

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I have the older version of this setup, Simrad branded.  I would highly 
recommend it as well, and agree having no cables is wonderful.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: CnC-List  on behalf of Glen Dickson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 3:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Glen Dickson
Subject: Re: Stus-List VHF Radio with Outside Extension Mic

I run a B V-60 with AIS receiver and an H60 wireless radio for the cockpit. 
Love it, and so nice not having to run a cable to the binnacle!

Glen Dickson
Nomad, C 34+
Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club
Toronto, Ontario Canada

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Stus-List Forward Hatch on 30-2

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

 

Hi all,

 

Hope this is not a double post, but did not see an earlier version come
through.

 

I'm doing some investigation on why my forward hatch does not stay open by
itself reliably and found a crack in one of the hinges on the half that
attaches to the frame mounted to the deck.   This is the large square hatch
in the v-berth of my '88 30-2.   My best guess from searching is that it is
a Lewmar Rollstop model.  Lewmar and their dealers no longer have parts for
these.

 

Can anyone help me confirm that I have identified this properly and/or know
of a source for parts?  Plan B would be having HatchMasters rebuild it, but
looking for other alternatives as well.   

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI

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Re: Stus-List Spring Fever

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Neil,

According to the South Shore Yacht Club newsletter that came out this weekend, 
the Queen’s Cup is officially delayed to an undetermined date.  South Shore has 
lots of issues this year, their break wall is all but ineffective due to the 
high water levels and they had extensive dock damage in a storm this winter.  I 
know the Commodore is trying extremely hard to make the race happen, but there 
are a lot of hurdles to overcome.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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From: CnC-List  on behalf of schiller via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 5:22:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spring Fever

Rod,

We don't race Grace.  It is just the wife and I, right now.  As I understand 
it, Michigan only limits congregations of 10 or less so technically you would 
be able to race with a crew.

It is just nice to have the normal spring routine to get the boat ready for 
launch.

I have been monitoring whether the Queen's Cup or the Clipper Cup across the 
lake races are cancelled.  So far they have not been.  The Queen's Cup is late 
June and they will need to make a decision soon.  Complicating things is that 
the high lake levels have created a lot of marina problems for fixed docks.  
Luckily we are in a marina with floating docks.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 5/3/2020 5:40 PM, Rod Stright via CnC-List wrote:

Are you allowed to race and is it family only on the boat or do they allow you 
have a physically distanced crew, like maybe 3?



From: CnC-List 
 On Behalf 
Of schiller via CnC-List
Sent: May-03-20 5:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Stus-List Spring Fever



Well, we've broken containment and evaded house arrest up here in the great 
midwest.  washed and polished the topsides today, VC-17 Thursday and we will 
have all the exterior work ready for launch.  Still need to do some minor 
electrical upgrades to get things to my satisfaction, but I can do those on 
rainy days.  Our marina is working to catch up on launching boats.  His crew 
will work 7 days a week once boats are ready for launch.  We haven't completely 
lifted the house arrests but once Queen Gretch allowed powerboat use the 
marinas decided that meant that they could launch boats.

Both Friday and today while we were up there everybody seemed to be acting 
responsibly and giving space to others.

The other good news we got last week was that UK Sails was able to finish our 
new Main and Jib while on lock down.  They stayed open sewing masks and that 
alloweed them to complete some of the logged orders.  Now all we have to do is 
arrange a clandestine meeting to take possession.

We may be able to get in the water yet.  Although high Great Lakes water levels 
may keep us from going anywhere except around our area.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC



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Re: Stus-List awlgrip

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I was able to find a local automotive paint specialty shop that would sell me a 
touch up sized bottle of custom matched paint for my boat.  

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Glen Dickson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 8:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Glen Dickson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List awlgrip

 

Many boat yards that paint with Awlgrip will have a few remnant cans kicking 
around, and can usually custom blend a small bottle for you to come fairly 
close, at least enough that you have to go looking for the repair.

 

Glen Dickson

S/V Nomad I

1990 C 34+

Pickering, ON

 

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Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Shawn,

 

The last time I did this project was my old Catalina, but my solution at the 
time was to leave the wires loose and run them through foam pipe insulation 
taped end to end.  I think I picked up the tip from the email list for that 
boat.  It was very quiet and provided great chafe protection for the wires.  
With some messenger lines run, you might be able to pull a new wire through, 
though I never had the need.

 

Just a thought,

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2020 10:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

 

I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service due 
to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I will save 
it.

 

One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get in a 
CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a bit thinner walled, 
and UV resistance is not an issue inside the mast. You could also seek out 
aluminum electrical conduit, which will be even thinner. Regarding sizing, I 
just installed two 3/4" conduits (grey electrical type) through the bilge for 
wiring, and was able to get the wiring for both Garmin and Standard horizon 
depth sounders through one conduit by staggering the connectors - two 7 pin DIN 
twist lock, and one RCA for the old SH unit. Once the connectors are through, 
there is plenty of space for smaller cables. 

Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be challenge 
also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the newer ones. 

 




--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com  

S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

 

 

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 3:30 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All,

 

As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical wiring in 
my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the time to do it. 
 I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to reduce noise (when 
rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C 34 with a keel stepped mast and 5 
internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables are for wind 
instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar (power and 
communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a separate drop at the 
spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:

 

1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large cable 
ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails sticking out 
at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the mast and keep the 
cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb outdoor zip ties which 
are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.

 

2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the cables 
and then running the cables through it.

 

There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties are 
definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that I see 
is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time potentially 
with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top to bottom so 
that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for example for the 
radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to the bottom at once and 
then fishing the ends out the various small holes in the mast and reattaching 
connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort required to install it and the 
additional holes I would need to create in the mast.  I am also unsure how 
quiet either solution would be and the relative chance of tangling or extra 
friction or wear on a halyard although most info on-line seems to indicate that 
the conduit is the better choice for that.

 

With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits - one to 
the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than having a 
hole in large conduit at the spreader location.

 

Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your thoughts on 
the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the effort for the 
conduit worth it?  

 

Thanks,

Nathan Post

S/V Wisper

1981 C 34 CB

Lynn MA, USA

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Re: Stus-List Carbon Fiber Whisker Pole

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Richard,

I have a carbon spin pole.  I wound up having a cover made by Harken Canvas to 
my measurements.  As I recall the cost was pretty reasonable.  They are local 
to me, but I know they will ship as well.

My reasoning was that the paint would get beat up quickly and I did not want to 
deal with it in the cabin most of the time.  The cover is probably 5 years old 
and has held up beautifully.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Richard,
 
Our boat was originally red and painted dark blue with Awlgrip at least 15 
years ago.  We are the 3rd owner since it was painted so I am a little unsure 
of the exact time frame.  The previous owner recommended the Awlgrip soap and 
polish in the spring, and we have continued that.  We have some spider 
cracking, but for the most part the hull looks beautiful.  We get a lot of 
compliments on the appearance of the boat and people are amazed to find out 
that it is a 15 year old paint job.  
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip 
Hulls
From: "Richard Bush via CnC-List" 
Date: 3/6/20 11:45 am
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Richard Bush" 

  This is a request for how many listers have painted or awlgripped hulls; if 
so, what color, how well are they holding up, are you happy with the work; are 
there issues with maintenance, any other pertinent info..cots, etcthanks!
 
Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
 

 
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
 
502-584-7255

 
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Re: Stus-List Racing Marks Question -- Not C Related

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Our club now has a permanent buoy that we use as a turning mark, but we used 
government marks or permanent marks placed by other yacht clubs (with their 
permission) for many years.  We race upwind/downwind courses so our volunteer 
committee boats (normally sailboats) drop an inflatable mark downwind of the 
turning mark for the other end of the start line on the night of the race with 
the boat as the other end.  No issues with vandalism or anchors holding and it 
is a reasonable task for a sailboat on the night of the race.  Just my 2 cents.
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
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Re: Stus-List Great Lakes

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Joe,
 
Definitely Lake Winnebago, the city of Oshkosh is on the west shore of it.  
It's a good sized inland lake, about 30 miles long and 10 miles wide, but 
shallow with sand bars and other navigation hazards.  Challenging for 
sailboats, lots of shoal drafts and swing keels there.
 
The Whaler would not be much fun on Lake Michigan most days, it's rarely that 
calm.  We occasionally get pontoon boats that decide to rent slips in our 
marina.  They never leave the breakwater and usually don't renew.
 
If you get to Milwaukee, you are always welcome on Firewater too!
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Stus-List Great Lakes
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
Date: 11/26/19 10:54 am
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 

I have been to Chicago many times and seen that end of Lake Michigan. Flying to 
Oshkosh for the airshow the straight line is across Lake Michigan, but that 
water is COLD even in the summer so we swung south of Chicago and then back 
north. There was a lake off to our right while heading up north to Oshkosh. 
Lake Winnebago maybe
 We may show up and bug you all for a sail, it sounds fun :)
 The Whaler is miserable in any chop and wet too, so I think a canal is about 
all I would want to try with it. 
 
 
 Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I
 www.dellabarba.com
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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Jim and Micki Reinardy / Firewater / 30-2 / 1988 / 4517 /
firewa...@reinardy.us   / Milwaukee, WI USA

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Re: Stus-List 37+ lights and head

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hi Alan,
 
Not sure about a replacement, but my 30-2 has the extendable hose on the head 
faucet exactly as you describe.  Just wanted you to know you are not imagining 
things.
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ lights and head
From: 'Allen Miles via CnC-List' 
Date: 10/3/19 8:43 am
To: 'CNC' 
Cc: 'Allen Miles' 

 I thought my 30-2 came equipped with an extendable hose faucet in the head so 
you could shower there. There is a shower grate and separate sump and pump.  
I just checked on board and I now have a standard faucet. Was I imagining 
things or was there a faucet with a hose that retracted into the locker under 
the sink? Can I get a replacement?
 
Allen Miles
S/v Septima
Hampton, VA


  On Wed, Oct 2, 2019 at 4:15 PM Opt online via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Here is a link to the 37+ owners manual.  I kept my navy light housings and put 
in LEDs from Defender
 
 On smelly head, I replaced all my hoses, the head, the anti siphon and the y 
valve.  I put fresh water in every flush using the head sink faucet that I 
replaced with an extendable hose faucet.  Also this device is amazing:  
 SeaSmart Marine Marine Toilet Sanitizer
 
 
 
 
 Rich Hulit
 
 Kindred. 1988 37+ wing keel
 
 917 854-5537
 rhhu...@optonline.net
 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
 
 > On Oct 2, 2019, at 3:39 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 > 
 > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
 >   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 > 
 > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
 >   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
 >   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 > 
 > You can reach the person managing the list at
 >   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
 > 
 > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
 > 
 > 
 > Today's Topics:
 > 
 >  1.  Smelly head (Blair Clark)
 >  2. Re:  Smelly head (Jeff Helsdingen)
 >  3. Re:  Potable water conservation (Bailey White)
 >  4. Re:  Smelly head (Shawn Wright)
 >  5.  Aqua Signal Lights on a 37+ (Chuck Saur)
 >  6. Re:  Smelly head (David Castor)
 > 
 > 
 > --
 > 
 > Message: 1
 > Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 18:52:16 +
 > From: Blair Clark 
 > To: CNC List 
 > Subject: Stus-List Smelly head
 > Message-ID:
 >   
 > 
 > 
 > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
 > 
 > I beg patience as i am hoping there is some quick troubleshooting hints that 
 > can be provided.
 > 
 > Purchased a 1990 C 34 +. really really happy with boat and currently 
 > working  through some smaller items to get her up to speed.
 > 
 > one of these involves the holding tank. My jabsco manual toilet exits 
 > through a Y valve to sea or to  holding tank.  No external macerator system 
 > is in place.. Even when Y valve set to sea I am having a smell go away and 
 > then return to the head area.
 > 
 > Holding tank was pumped before transport after purchase and appears close to 
 > empty.
 > 
 > Steps to date:
 > 
 > 1) Had a group out on the boat
 > 2) next day head ines appeared blocked as there was back pressure on handle
 > 3) removed lines got shop vacuum cleared lines and flushed with vinegar and 
 > water
 > 4 thought everything would be good
 > 5) Noticed smell in head
 > 2) noticed back flow of liquid into bowl
 > 3) again fought with stiff lines and replaced joker valve
 > 3) back flow and  Smell went away
 > 4) a few days later after not using boat the smell came back but not from 
 > toilet bowl
 > 5) noticed that when I opened door under vanity sink bowl in the space that 
 > houses the holding tank that the smell was more extreme
 > 6) thought of taking tank out to inspect during winter but have no idea how 
 > to access it to do so.
 > 
 > Does anyone have any suggestions as to troubleshoot tsmell, holding tank or 
 > lines and or remove tank?
 > 
 > Thanks,
 > 
 > Blair
 > C 34+
 > -- next part --
 > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
 > URL: 
 > 
 > 
 > --
 > 
 > Message: 2
 > Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 14:58:42 -0400
 > From: Jeff Helsdingen 
 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Smelly head
 > Message-ID:
 >   
 > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
 > 
 > Even the good read expensive hose smells bad after a while. If yours is
 > still original it's probably due to be replaced. Possibly the tank as well.
 > I've heard it is better to use fresh water from the head faucet to flush
 > rather than sea water too. What we did to get rid of the smells was to yank
 > all of it out and go with a composting head. So far so good. Good luck.
 > 
 > Jeff
 > 
 > On Wed., Oct. 2, 2019, 2:52 p.m. Blair Clark via CnC-List, <
 > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 

Re: Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Thanks, Mike!  
 
I am definitely keeping this as an option, but Holland Marine claims to have 
the exact replacement part, which is now on the way to me.  I'm planning to try 
that first and will go the strop direction if that doesn't pan out.  Thanks all 
for the feedback.
 
Regards,
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2
From: 'Michael Brannon via CnC-List' 
Date: 9/25/19 10:25 am
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: 'Michael Brannon' 

I made a strop with AMSTEEL.  I spliced eyes in each end.   It goes around the 
mast three times.   It stays in place without anything holding it there.  

  Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA
 


  On Sep 23, 2019, at 9:29 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:

   Hi all,
 
We were headed out for the last race of the season Saturday and as we loaded up 
the main for the first time, the fitting on the boom that  attaches to the main 
sheet snapped off our 30-2.  This was a single eye attached to a plate riveted 
to the inside of the boom.  I suspect this probably just weakened over time and 
happened to give out at the weld.   It was quite windy, but at that point the 
stresses on the mainsheet weren't out of the ordinary since we were just 
motoring out of the harbor.  No other damage to the boat and no harm to the 
crew as a result of this, so it could have been much worse.
 
Now the issue is how to find a replacement.  Anyone have an idea if these are 
available off the shelf or have another idea for replacement?  RigRite does not 
recognize it.  I have also contacted Offshore Spars, who I believe made the rig 
originally and helped me out with a boom vang bracket last year. RigRite has 
one that is similar size but with a different hole pattern that I probably 
could make work, but still hoping for a true replacement if I can get one.  
Thanks for your help!
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI 
 

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Re: Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Charlie,

 

That is an interesting thought!  How do you keep yours from slipping down the 
boom?  How wide would you say the webbing is?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2019 9:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2

 

Why not consider a strong webbing type strap with sewn loops on each end?--can 
be very strong, cheap and indestructible. I have been using the same one on 
Water Phantom for 20+ years. 

 

Charlie Nelson

C 36 XL/kcb



-Original Message-
From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: firewater mailto:firewa...@reinardy.us> >
Sent: Mon, Sep 23, 2019 9:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2

Hi all,

 

We were headed out for the last race of the season Saturday and as we loaded up 
the main for the first time, the fitting on the boom that  attaches to the main 
sheet snapped off our 30-2.  This was a single eye attached to a plate riveted 
to the inside of the boom.  I suspect this probably just weakened over time and 
happened to give out at the weld.   It was quite windy, but at that point the 
stresses on the mainsheet weren’t out of the ordinary since we were just 
motoring out of the harbor.  No other damage to the boat and no harm to the 
crew as a result of this, so it could have been much worse.

 

Now the issue is how to find a replacement.  Anyone have an idea if these are 
available off the shelf or have another idea for replacement?  RigRite does not 
recognize it.  I have also contacted Offshore Spars, who I believe made the rig 
originally and helped me out with a boom vang bracket last year. RigRite has 
one that is similar size but with a different hole pattern that I probably 
could make work, but still hoping for a true replacement if I can get one.  
Thanks for your help!

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

 

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Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hi all,

 

We were headed out for the last race of the season Saturday and as we loaded
up the main for the first time, the fitting on the boom that  attaches to
the main sheet snapped off our 30-2.  This was a single eye attached to a
plate riveted to the inside of the boom.  I suspect this probably just
weakened over time and happened to give out at the weld.   It was quite
windy, but at that point the stresses on the mainsheet weren't out of the
ordinary since we were just motoring out of the harbor.  No other damage to
the boat and no harm to the crew as a result of this, so it could have been
much worse.

 

Now the issue is how to find a replacement.  Anyone have an idea if these
are available off the shelf or have another idea for replacement?  RigRite
does not recognize it.  I have also contacted Offshore Spars, who I believe
made the rig originally and helped me out with a boom vang bracket last
year. RigRite has one that is similar size but with a different hole pattern
that I probably could make work, but still hoping for a true replacement if
I can get one.  Thanks for your help!

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI 

 

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Stus-List Merriman Car stuck

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hello all,
One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin 
holding the jib car in place on the track.  Unfortunately, he forgot to move 
the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into the hole 
once the ring was off.   The  top of the pin is now flush with the top of the 
car.  Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at some point I 
would like to be able to move it again.  Anybody dealt with this situation 
before?   This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were standard 
on these boats.  Thanks for any suggestions!
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

  
  
  

My solution was to have some Sunbrella covers made for the wood 
handrails.  Takes nearly all the maintenance work away.  Haven’t touched them 
in 3 years.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



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On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 9:11 PM -0600, "John Conklin via CnC-List" 
 wrote:




















Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless! 


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ


 


 


John Conklin


 


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 9:15:43 PM

To: C List

Cc: Josh Muckley

Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
 


Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid 
$100 for each rail.  Custom made to fit the original holes.



Whitewatermarine.com



https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA





Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD










On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray













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Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

David,

 

There was a thread on this about a year ago, and a couple of list members
recommended Flair-It connectors for PEX.  No special tools required.  I have
not used them personally, but made a note to give them a try.  My boat still
has the original polybutylene plumbing, so I am starting to feel like I am
living on borrowed time.

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"
In the deep freeze in Milwaukee, WI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 9:06 AM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

 

I am sure this has been gone over before...so please indulge me.

 

Replacing, re-designing, water lines in 1981 40-2.  Pex is the obvious
choice.   Are there less obvious (and have cheaper tools required to
install) choices?

 

Has anyone improved on the original design?   I am thinking of adding easier
accessible manifolds and an additional line for antifreeze and blowing out
water.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

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Re: Stus-List Engine Antifreeze

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

  
  
  

Dennis,
I appreciate the effort, but I live just into the next county from Milwaukee in 
a suburb that does not seem to think recycling is important.  At one time, I 
lived in the city and visited the locations in the link often.  Unfortunately, 
they check ID’s at the gate.   It’s a good reminder that I have enough friends 
in the city that might be able to help me out though.  I will also give the 
auto parts stores a shot, that would be even easier. 
Regards,
Jim



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On Sun, Nov 18, 2018 at 7:07 PM -0600, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










https://city.milwaukee.gov/mpw/divisions/operations/environmental/sanitation/DropOff#.W_IMJehKg2w
There ya go.  Google is a wonderful thing.
A Pepboys auto store near me takes antifreeze, you might call your nearest 
Pepboys.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Nov 18, 2018 at 6:20 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:



  
  
  

This is a tangent off the original question, but does anyone know what 
to do with the old antifreeze?  My city will take motor oil but not antifreeze. 
  It’s been holding me back from changing it out lately, but I really need to 
do in the spring.
Thanks,
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 



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Re: Stus-List Engine Antifreeze

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

  
  
  

This is a tangent off the original question, but does anyone know what 
to do with the old antifreeze?  My city will take motor oil but not antifreeze. 
  It’s been holding me back from changing it out lately, but I really need to 
do in the spring.
Thanks,
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 



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On Sun, Nov 18, 2018 at 9:16 AM -0600, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Hello Robert,
Below is a post I put on the board about a month ago, which speaks to the issue 
of the coolant itself.  Your boat may be sufficiently old that all its ever had 
is the standard green antifreeze, but nonetheless, you will probably find this 
interesting.  In the end, rather than having the concern about Dextron 
antifreeze causing head gasket leaks hang over my head, I am going to go with 
the newer "universal" long-life coolant, which I believe is yellow (though the 
color means nothing anymore).  As for the frequency of coolant changes, Yanmar 
now recommends changing it EVERY YEAR even if it is long-life coolant.  The 
primary job of coolant (other than keeping it from freezing) is stopping 
corrosion in the engine, and coolant breaks down over time (especially the old 
style green coolant).  This is why they developed "long life" coolant which is 
supposedly good for 5 years.  
So, I'll probably plan on replacing the coolant every 2 years at the same time 
I replace my impeller.
Hope you find the reading below helpful.
Hello all,
As
 a result of a concern about tracking down a potential antifreeze leak 
(which I haven't done yet), I wanted to confirm the coolant type.  There
 is no mention as to specific types either in my 3JH2E operating or 
service manuals.  Yes, I could go (way) out of my way to get Yanmar 
branded coolant, but let's face it - it is not only way more expensive, 
its available almost exclusively at Yanmar dealers, and the nearest one 
to me is 15 miles away and isn't open on Saturdays or Sundays.  And of 
course, what happens if you need more when you're out cruising?

 In doing research, I found the following bulletin, published by Mack Boring:  
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=4=2ahUKEwizh_zu8Y3eAhWOy1MKHSFlD3cQFjADegQIBxAC=http%3A%2F%2Fldmarineservice.com%2Ffiles%2Fyanmar_bulletins.pdf=AOvVaw3WK3R6vfJyTHOt5yGzFMDZ

In the section about coolants, it recommends:
Texaco
 Long Life Coolant, numbers 7991 and 7998.  Unfortunately, one really 
can't find either product on the web, so I can't seem to find if it was 
orange (DEXCOOL) or red for diesels, or for that matter if it was 
ethylene glycol or propylene glycol based.

Havoline Extended Life Anti-Freeze/Coolant, number 7994.  Per this link, 7994 
is DEX-COOL, but is ethylene glycol based.   
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=1=2ahUKEwij_o2I843eAhWK0FMKHXc5AfMQFjAAegQICxAC=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rialtainfo.com%2Fvw%2Fvw_images%2Fradiator_%26_coolant.pdf=AOvVaw3ZxHApMqFHHgB-qcUwOYWa
 

Dex-Cool
 Long Life Coolant, which at least at the time of introduction was 
propylene glycol based and is Organic Acid Technology (OAT) thus meaning
 less toxic.  Funny thing is, Dex-Cool was not even introduced until a 
year after my boat was built (1995) and at the time, was only being used
 in GM cars.  

Prestone Extended Life Coolant, product code AF888.  Per the attached, guess 
what, it's Dex-Cool.  
https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-radiator-additives-and-windshield-wash-fluid/antifreeze/prestone-antifreeze-engine-coolant/87934_0_0.
 
 It is ethylene glycol based, but Prestone says it is OAT, which would 
seem to conflict with what I can find about traditional Dex-Cool. 

Not
 entirely satisfied, I wanted to see what a Yanmar official publication 
recommended.  In a 2009 JH Series Operation Manual, it recommends Texaco
 7997 and 7998 (same as above).  It also recommends Havoline 7994, as 
above.  It however says nothing about Dex-Cool or Prestone AF888.  I get
 similar results in a 3JH4E manual.

Then,
 of course, I was faced with the fact that while I used Prestone AF888 
when I flushed and replaced my coolant, I was replacing what appeared to
 be traditional green coolant (presumably old-style ethylene glycol).  I
 only now read a lot of horror stories of replacing green with orange 
Dex-Cool, saying that one can never flush out the system sufficiently to
 keep the orange coolant from gelling to the point the engine 
overheats.  

So,
 at this point I have no real idea what to thing other than the Prestone
 AF888 I used should be OK as long as it doesn't a).  Turn color  B) Gel
 up and c) My engine temperature stays OK.
Sigh...

Does anyone else here have anything more authoritative? (In the end I did not 
receive any posts that were more authoritative)
 Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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Re: Stus-List Shrink-Wrapping Painted Boats

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

  
  
  

Our boat came with a canvas winter cover that attaches at the toe rail. 
 The previous owner told me that he was concerned about blistering if he had 
extended it to the topsides.
Jim Reinardy C 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



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On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 2:53 PM -0500, "Randy Stafford via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Listers-

Have you heard anything to the effect that painted boats shouldn’t be 
shrink-wrapped because that might cause blistering?  I’d like to shrink-wrap 
Grenadine this winter, but obviously wouldn’t want to damage her paint job.

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I bought the model that Fred is offering a few years ago for my 
waste tank and like it very much.  The sensor for that one sticks to the 
outside of the tank.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



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On Tue, Oct 2, 2018 at 6:32 PM -0500, "Neil Andersen via CnC-List" 
 wrote:


















For the holding tank does the sensor go inside the tank??





Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


 

From: 20015712500n behalf of


Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 6:59 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Edd Schillay

Subject: Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators
 


Josh,



I would be very interested in hearing how you installed this, including access 
to the tank sides to mount the sensors. 




All the best, 




Edd



---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize







On Oct 2, 2018, at 3:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:





I installed this product.  I love it.
https://tankedge.com/products.html



Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 








On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Hello, 



Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
plumbing hoses in the head for
 odor control.  While I am down there, I was wondering if anyone has replaced 
tank level senders/sensors or reactivated them somehow.  It would be great to 
be able to monitor levels so if people also have done upgrades, ideas on that 
would be appreciated as
 well.



All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.



Cheers,



Maurice Poulin

C 30 MKII - Monoloy 














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Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

  
  
  

We are finishing our 6th season with Firewater, our 1988 30-2.  No 
plans to trade up at this point, though I would look at C’s first if we did.
Jim ReinardyMilwaukee, WI



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On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 8:52 AM -0400, "Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Hello Al,
I have a question for the list.
How many of you have owned your current C yacht for 5 years or longer.
FYI - we have owned Honey since October 1976 and are currently the second 
owners.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald, HONEY - US127881974 C 39 TMSavannah, GA 31410 USA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you



On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 7:53 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:










Question for Rob:


At the time, was the fact that C seem to be owned far longer than most boats 
ever discussed ? Was this considered a good or bad thing?


We have owned Coquina since 1977 and she is – knock on FRP – on track to be 
sailed by the third generation. I have sailed her since I was 12.


I recall a frustrated C broker telling me “No one trades up. Catalina owners 
buy boats every 5 years and you all keep them for decades!”


 


Joe


Coquina


C 35 MK I


 


BTW – thread creep – Having a C 35 in the early or mid 70s was like having a 
Ferrari when everyone else had a golf cart. We bought one because someone else
 had one on the river and that boat passed the rest of us like we were aground 
J



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Re: Stus-List Love tap while racing or "rough start"

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Chuck,
Our club has an identical rule to yours, we have to go around one end of the 
line to restart.  S
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, Wi



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On Sun, Sep 23, 2018 at 4:54 PM -0500, "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
 wrote:















Hopefully nobody had their legs over when he came crashing through the line.  




FWIW, my local club made it a rule that the start line is one way and boats 
over early have to go around the pin end or the committee boat to restart.  
Anyone else have that rule?





Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, MdOn September 22, 2018 at 6:46 PM Doug Mountjoy 
via CnC-List  wrote: 
 
That was funny. Hope no one was hurt. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
Date: 9/22/18 09:28 (GMT-08:00)To: CnClist 
Cc: "Dennis C." Subject: Stus-List 
Love tap while racing or "rough start"
All this discussion on rules while NOT racing.  Here's an incident from last 
Wednesday night's race in New Orleans.  How NOT to start a race.  Enjoy.
https://youtu.be/AIu8mXQOs-g 

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Performance Tees

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Peter,
I would send it again.  I have been working with Don on 30-2 shirts and found 
him to be extremely responsive.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 



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On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 12:47 AM -0500, "Peter Fell via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Interesting - I emailed the company on 12th July with a couple questions. No 
response yet.
On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 2:59 PM, Colin A. Flock via CnC-List 
 wrote:
With the all of the threads on the great shirts from Maritime Tees I did not 
see any comments on the Performance Tees he offers.  We have a new (to us) C 
29-2 and there was only a C 29 on the site so he made up new ones for us very 
quickly.
Received them today, one long sleeve and one short but both performance, they 
are a 65/35 poly/cotton blend so soft and fit well.  I am 6 foot and average 
build, the large is perfect.  My wife got the long sleeve in small, she is 
normally a medium in women's petite and 5'3".
Have not washed them yet but suspect with the blend they will not shrink.
Great service will likely order again.
Colin C 29 Toronto, ON

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Re: Stus-List C clothing

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Randy,
 
Does he have the line drawings or did you have to provide that?
 
Thanks,
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List C clothing
From: "Randy Stafford via CnC-List" 
Date: 7/11/18 9:04 am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Randy Stafford" 

Ask and ye shall receive.  Don did a 30 MK I t-shirt for me: 
https://maritimetees.net/products/c-c-30-1-t-shirt  
Cheers,
Randy
 
  On Jul 10, 2018, at 10:03 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I asked Don to add the 35-1.  Poof!  Here's the link:  
https://maritimetees.net/products/c-c-35-1-t-shirt
 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
 
 On Wed, Jul 4, 2018 at 5:16 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  
I asked Maritimetees.net out of California if they would build t shirts with 
the 37+ line drawings and logo. 20 minutes later they are on order and appeared 
online. The owner Don is a C fan. There are probably lots of places selling 
them but I haven't seen them before, thought I would share.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
Midland On.  
 Sent from my iPad



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this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
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Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hi Maurice,
Congratulations on the new boat!  We are in season 6 with our 30-2 and really 
love the boat.  Our water tank setup sounds simpler than yours, we have one 
valve that opens one tank and closes the other.  It’s located next to the pump 
at the forward end of the dinette on Firewater.  
I believe the pumps are self priming.  We have a belt driven beast of a water 
pump that seems to be able to pull water pretty easily.    I had a similar 
issue to yours with the starboard tank last year.  I could not find any obvious 
issues either, but simply removing the supply line and blowing out the line 
into the empty tank resolved the issue.  I am guessing that there was some 
growth or debris at the outlet on the tank side.  We find the boat races 
slightly better if we don’t use the forward tank, so we typically just fill the 
starboard unless we are going on a long cruise.
Hope that helps, enjoy the boat!
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



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On Mon, Jul 9, 2018 at 8:09 AM -0500, "Maurice Poulin via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Hello, 

As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a 
ball.  Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall 
appraisal!  But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for 
assistance hopefully.  

The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much 
on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the 
pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. 
Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, 
checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution 
gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the 
galley and head.  As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this 
gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them 
while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is 
pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, 
confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me 
from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing 
exploratory work at the dock!  What should I be doing appropriately to switch 
from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not?  

Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self 
priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be 
an alternate question?

Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously!

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C 30 MKII, Monoloy

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Re: Stus-List North Nordac Sails

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

We bought a #2 (135%) made from the new 3Di Nordac material 
last fall.  We like it so much that we have not flown the #1 this year.  Great 
sail shape and it points very well.  I would highly recommend it so far.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI  



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On Tue, Jul 3, 2018 at 12:18 PM -0500, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 wrote:














I purchased one this year as a mainsail and have had it up only about a 
half dozen times.  The shape is generally good, except for two issues I’ve 
noted: 1) there is an area near one of the upper battens that is messing up the 
shape that I need to investigate; and 2) when the luff backwinds in heavier air 
(the so-called “speed bubble”), it is really pronounced and looks slow.  
Also, the material weight is much greater than I expected – the sail is bullet 
proof and doesn’t flake well.
 
I haven’t decided yet if I’m happy with it.
 
Also, if you don’t want blue sail numbers, you need to tell them.  I 
sent my old main with black numbers to the loft (for transferring Tide 
sailtrack 
fittings) and assumed the new sail would have the same color numbers – 
wrong.


 

From: William Walker via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2018 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com 
Subject: Stus-List North Nordac Sails
 



Anyone using Nordac Sails?  Comments?
Bill Walker 
CnC 
36
Pentwater, Mi.


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail





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Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I just bought a Water Witch as well, but found much better pricing at Defender 
compared to the Water Witch site.  I paid a little more and got a 203 because I 
found more favorable reviews about that model and I liked having the 2 sensors 
and greater current handling capability.  It should arrive tomorrow and 
planning to install it over the weekend.  I have had 2 float switches die in 
the past year, so I am determined to find something more reliable.   My pump is 
still in the bilge, so my plan was to zip tie it to the plastic housing of the 
pump itself.  That should remove any grounding issues as Mike mentions below.
 
Regards,
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List recommendations for 
a small bilge pump
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date: 6/21/18 10:50 am
To: "Tortuga" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 

  Hi Derek
  
 I believe we have the Model 101 series switch mated to a PAR 36680-2000 
diaphragm pump.The switch we have can be seen at this link 
https://waterwitchinc.com/bilge-switches/
  
 I cannot remember where I purchased it but I see that Water Witch sells 
on-line.
  
 One of the great things about this switch compared to a float switch is the 
ease of mounting.  I zip tied it to a keel bolt and was done in less than 5 
minutes.  Now that I think about it am wondering if that may eventually cause 
problems with wiring and metal touching the keel bolt though 
  
 The diaphragm pump is located in the galley under the sink and allows the 
pickup to be less than 1cm from the bottom of bilge.  With the water witch 
switch located low in bilge also and the fact that the switch runs for a few 
seconds after water level below its contact area the bilge is pretty dry.
  
 The main downside of the diaphragm pump is the flow rate which is much less 
than other types of bilge pumps.
  
 I think all of this was discussed a few years ago on this list.  That is where 
I found out about this switch.
  
 Mike
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS
  
 From: Tortuga [mailto:tortugas...@gmail.com] 
 Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2018 2:35 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Hoyt, Mike
 Subject: Re: recommendations for a small bilge pump
 
  Hi Mike
  Can you elaborate on which Witch you have? I haven't heard of them before but 
they sound super. The web site shows Stright MacKay as a dealer, but I can't 
find one in the new catalog.
 

 
Also will you name your pump? Thanks
 

 
Derek Kennedy
 
 C #553 "Tortuga"
 
Ballantyne's Cove, NS
 

 


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Re: Stus-List Instruments - Powerless

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Ray,
 
What brand and series of instruments are these?  Do you know if it is NMEA 0183 
or 2000?  That will make some difference as to how the power is hooked up and 
routed.  
 
I would start simple though.  Do you have a dedicated breaker or switch for the 
instruments?  The place to start by making sure you have power coming off the 
terminals in your electrical panel.  Trace those wires as best you can to find 
what is on the other end.  You likely have an issue somewhere in that main 
power feed since multiple things are not working.
 
Where do you keep your boat?  I am in the south section of McKinley so I might 
be able to help you at some point.  Hoping to spend some time down there this 
weekend beyond racing tonight, but not sure what my schedule is yet.
 
Regards,
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Stus-List Instruments - Powerless
From: "Raymond Macklin via CnC-List" 
Date: 6/15/18 6:33 am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Raymond Macklin" 

  Everyone:
 
Nice sunny day breezy day in Milwaukee.  It would probably help tell what my 
wind direction, depth and speed was if my instruments had power. 
 
I finished the season with everything working.  I tested everything and they 
only thing that is not working is my wind/speed/ depth. 
 
I never messed with the electrical so any one has advise on what to check for 
before calling in the $$$ (marina people)?
 
Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee 

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Re: Stus-List 30-2, Rod rigging tension and rake.

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Chad,
The mast step on our 30-2 is aluminum, I would imagine that was the standard 
from the factory.  On mine, I have a good amount of room on the turnbuckles for 
the larger rod, but the smaller rod is getting closer.  I would think that one 
stretches a bit more with the smaller diameter rod.  One thing I have noticed 
with the rod is that once it gets tight, the tension changes rapidly, a 1/4 
turn can move the needle on my Loos gauge, so you might have more adjustment 
left than you think.
I struggled with how to adjust my rig until I borrowed the right Loos gauge 
from a list member and then bought one when I figured out what a difference it 
made.  I wish they were cheaper, but there is no real substitute.  There was 
one on eBay recently, so they do show up there once in a while.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



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On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 9:25 PM -0500, "Chad Osmond via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










I'll take a look at the mast shoe, I'm not sure what the 30-2 mast step is made 
from, but it did seem a lot easier to access the the 30-1 photos I've seen.









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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Matt,
 
I would 2nd the recommendation on Marinebeam.  They will have both the LED 
replacement bulb you would need or a new fixture.  My fixture was in pretty 
good shape so I bought the bulb last year.  I don't generally spend much time 
at anchor so I can't say it got a workout, but it always tests fine.
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about 
anchor light
From: "Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List" 
Date: 5/7/18 10:34 am
To: "Francois Rivard" 
Cc: "Matthew Schlanger" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Thanks. Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at 
the last minute I started thinking just change it out.
 
Matt

On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard  
wrote:

  Hi Matt,   
When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing, 
crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw it 
in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
(https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/)
 
They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed, the 
machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is nice and 
thick.  
 
It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and 
forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no 
maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light on 
the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  
 
Good luck with the project. 
 
Best Regards, 
 
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
 
 


 


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Re: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

My 30-2 has the welded top plate as well.  I bit the bullet and 
removed the chain plates and rebedded last year.  On my boat, there is just no 
place to put sealant on that joint where it will actually seal anything.
Even having to drill out one of the bolts, it was not a terrible job.  On mine, 
the plates bolt to the fiberglass behind the settee cushion.  One of the PO’s 
had cut access panels so you could actually get to the nuts.  A couple of hour 
job.  I sealed with butyl and have had no issues.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



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On Sat, May 5, 2018 at 10:04 AM -0500, "Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List" 
 wrote:












Dave,

 

I think the word you are looking for is ARGH!

 

Sorry I couldn’t be more help.  It looks like C did the chain plate 
differently depending on the year & model.

 

Neil

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 5, 2018 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

 

Neil,

 

Those are great informative videos but unfortunately they don’t address the 
problem that both I and Chuck had/have. In both of those videos the top plate 
can be unbolted and lifted of, allowing access to the cut-outf. On our boats, 
that top plate is welded to, in my case, a massive single chainplate oriented 
in a fore-and-aft plane. The only way to get under that plate in order to fill 
the cut-out is to remove/lift the entire chainplate.

 

And the most egregious error is that they didn’t use butyl!  ;-)

 

Cheers,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit





On May 5, 2018, at 10:22 AM, Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Chuck and fellow listers,

 

Here is a YouTube video showing the re-bedding chain plates on an Island Packet 
that is quite detailed and shows some good information that is not specific to 
Island Packet.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4L-hf5607AI=6s

 

Here is on with a C: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cvpq_AA85N4 (starts 
around a minute in).

 

Sincerely,

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Full disclosure, I am now a Broker for S Yachts in Rock Hall, MD

 

Office: 410 639-2777 or 410 571-3605
Cell: 484-354-8800
Email: n...@sjyachts.com
Website: www.sjyachts.com




From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 4, 2018 11:12 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Subject: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

 

What's the best way to seal leaky chainplates at the deck.  The boats built 
after 1988 have a welded flange that makes it hard to get caulk inside the 
joint without removing the whole assembly.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Perhaps they have changed the design, but the Globe impellers I used for a 
while on my old Atomic 4 equipped Catalina had a plastic inner ring with a 
keyway that the shaft went into.  That boat was raw water cooled in Lake 
Michigan, so no heat issues in that pump. The plastic ring cracked in less than 
a season of use.  The shaft started spinning inside it and water flow stopped.  
I spotted the lack of water exhaust before any real damage got done, but I 
would need to know they are using metal inner rings before I would consider 
them again.
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh Water 
Conversion Yanmar 3HM
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
Date: 4/30/18 1:56 pm
To: "C List" 
Cc: "Josh Muckley" 

 I have a Globe Impeller in my boat and have started using them at work too.  
They definitely seem to live up to their claims.  At work we would routinely 
destroy even brand new rubber impellers since they would sit for months and be 
allowed to dry out.  Similarly I have gone 4 years between changes on my boat's 
impeller.  I didn't have to replace it when I did but rather chose to and then 
later discovered some cracks on the vanes.  
I also run a SpeedSeal Life which I'm sure helps.
 
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
 


  On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 4:28 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   What about those Blue Globe Impellers? They seem much better that the 
neoprene style of old, and seem to be a silicone blend, or something. They seem 
to hold up much better, and they also have a hardier Red Impeller, which I 
believe is intended for Diesel, and I think Higher Temps.
  
  Bill Coleman
 C 39 Erie
 
 
   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 3:56 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
 


 Fred, 
  Mine was Jabsco as well.  My engine tech said he's concerned that a Jabsco 
rubber impeller wouldn't be up to the task of the heat in a circulation pump.  
Any thoughts there?  I suspect it would need to be checked often just like the 
raw pump impeller.  Maybe I just need to inspect the Sendure exchanger for any 
blockages, change impeller and get the boat in the water.
 
Chuck Gilchrest 
 
Half Magic
 
83 35 LF
 
Padanaram MA
  Sent from my iPhone
 

 On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
  Chuck - my 1979 Landfall 38 (Middletown-built) appears to have come with a 
factory-installed Sen-Dure heat-exchanger and added circulation pump (a Jabsco, 
which I have since replaced with another Jabsco, rather than try to rebuild).  
I also have the challenges of no access (V-drive).
  
 
- Fred
   
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 


 
  On Apr 30, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

   Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never even 
bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the 
one in the Yanmar manual, but since I'd been having a marina commission and 
decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary 
(“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw water pump 
changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out 
and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there's more going on.
 
 
 
Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
mentioned that it was the first time he'd ever seen a small diesel with not one 
but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a 
fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion 
tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt.  So one of 
the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the 
engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year.
 
 
 
Has anyone ever heard of C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn't been 
built 

Re: Stus-List Forward Hatch Handle for 30-2

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

BTW, based on the helpful link Dennis sent, I believe it is a 
Rollstop.  The Ocean handles would appear to fit, though they look slightly 
different.  Sounds like Josh was able to get it work with his.
Jim



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On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 9:16 PM -0500, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:










I just replaced mine.  If they are the same you are welcome to one of my old 
parts.  They are pretty cheap to buy new.  The failure mechanism on mine was 
that the center stem pulled out of the mushroom cap.
This is what I 
replaced:https://hatchmasters.com/product/lewmar-mushroom-handle-caps/

This is what I replaced them 
with:https://hatchmasters.com/product/lewmar-ocean-rollstop-handle-top/

Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD 
On Sun, Apr 29, 2018, 9:39 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:








Hello All,
Down at the boat today and noticed that one of the locking handles on my 
forward hatch is cracked and not holding well.  I believe it is a Lewmar hatch, 
but I don’t find a replacement handle that looks like it.  Anybody know of a 
source for this part?
Thanks,
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI


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Re: Stus-List Forward Hatch Handle for 30-2

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Josh,
What went on mine was the tab on the interior handle on the left side.  If you 
have that as surplus, I would gladly take it off your hands!
Jim



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On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 9:16 PM -0500, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:










I just replaced mine.  If they are the same you are welcome to one of my old 
parts.  They are pretty cheap to buy new.  The failure mechanism on mine was 
that the center stem pulled out of the mushroom cap.
This is what I 
replaced:https://hatchmasters.com/product/lewmar-mushroom-handle-caps/

This is what I replaced them 
with:https://hatchmasters.com/product/lewmar-ocean-rollstop-handle-top/

Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD 
On Sun, Apr 29, 2018, 9:39 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:








Hello All,
Down at the boat today and noticed that one of the locking handles on my 
forward hatch is cracked and not holding well.  I believe it is a Lewmar hatch, 
but I don’t find a replacement handle that looks like it.  Anybody know of a 
source for this part?
Thanks,
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI


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Stus-List Forward Hatch Handle for 30-2

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hello All,
Down at the boat today and noticed that one of the locking handles on my 
forward hatch is cracked and not holding well.  I believe it is a Lewmar hatch, 
but I don’t find a replacement handle that looks like it.  Anybody know of a 
source for this part?
Thanks,
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI


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Re: Stus-List Cetol Clear...

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I agree with Bill about Catalinas, though I feel obligated to 
point out that my 1979 27 had more outside teak than my 30-2. 
I briefly considered stainless handrails when my varnish jobs started barely 
lasting a season,  However, I found some Sunbrella handrail covers that are 
making a huge difference.  2 seasons and counting on my Deks Olje varnish job.  
I am intrigued by Awlwood, though the price has scared me off, about twice what 
I am paying for Deks Olje.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI  



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On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 8:10 PM -0600, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
 wrote:


























I don’t want to start a teak war, but I have to agree with Rick –
I’ve had to strip my handrails a few times, as it gets away from me, and now I
do again.



But I just couldn’t see putting SS rails on the boat. I could
have whipped up some SS handrails overnight, but it just didn’t seem right. . .
. I would have had to go home and take a shower. When these C’s, well,
the earlier ones, were made, I think they were trying to make Plastic boats 
still
look like wooden boats, and the brightwork is all about that. 



In defense of Catalina’s , not that I give a rat’s ass about
Catalina’s, but they are nice boats . . .they never tried to make them
look like classic boats.  Ours are.



 





Bill Coleman



C 39 Erie, PA





 







From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via
CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2018 5:43 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Rick Brass

Subject: Re: Stus-List Cetol Clear...







 



Yes, but stainless leaves your boat looking like a Clorox
bottle…. Or, worse yet, a Catalina!!



 



Rick Brass



Washington, NC



 



 



 







From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford
via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2018 1:48 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Cetol Clear...







 









And
I gave up on wooden handrails and now use stainless (although they are rather
smooth).











 









From: Frederick G
Street via CnC-List 







Sent:
Wednesday, February 28, 2018 12:32 PM







To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com








Cc: Frederick G Street








Subject: Re:
Stus-List Cetol Clear...











 









To
be honest, I’d rather NOT have my handrails super-smooth; a little bit of grip
is not a bad thing.  And I’m a bit reluctant to spend a huge amount of
time sanding in any case…   :^) 





 







FWIW,
I gave up on Cetol and I’m now using Awlwood products.







 







—
Fred









Fred Street -- Minneapolis

S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) --
on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(









 







On
Feb 28, 2018, at 11:18 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List  
wrote:







 







I followed the instructions and did not sand between coats. 
Five coats Cetol Marine Natural Teak followed by three coats Cetol Marine
Gloss, with no sanding in between (but sanded smooth beforehand), on
Grenadine’s exterior handrails, traveler bar, and taffrails one year ago. 
The finish is not perfect by my grandfather’s standards (who built my mom a
beautiful cherrywood rocking chair with 12 coats of varnish and super fine
sanding in between).  When you run your hand along the finish you might
feel very slight unevenness.  But you can’t see it unless you’re down
there looking with a magnifying glass.  That was good enough for me. 





 







Cheers,







Randy Stafford







S/V Grenadine







C 30-1 #7







Ken Caryl, CO





 







On Feb 28, 2018, at 9:24 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:







 











Sanded
wood smooth.  Added 3 coats of Cetol Teak.  Surfaced roughed up a bit
as no sanding between coats.   I want to add 3 coats of Cetol clear
and was told by their tech that is self leveling and surface will become
smooth.  







 







I
am so tired of  sanding, but I would rather know now if I should sand the
surface smooth now (and presumably remove some coating) or move ahead into
Clear without sanding.







 







Practical
experience please chime in.  Thanks in advance.























 













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Re: Stus-List insurance

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Larry,
American Family is based here in Wisconsin and I can second your opinion.  I 
have had all of my insurance with them, including the boat for nearly 30 years.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



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On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 9:55 AM -0600, "Larry via CnC-List" 
 wrote:












When I purchased my boat I did a lot of shopping around.

I went with American Family Insurance. Fantastic company. If I could have them 
for all my insurance needs, I would. But I have had my home and auto with Geico 
for over 40 years and my discounts cannot be beat.

My boat insurance is through American and is 485 a year and on 80k value boat, 
with one million on damages. US Boat, Geico and the rest were half again if not 
double.

Just my 2 cents

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 4, 2018 7:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List insurance

 

Seaworthy is owned by Warren Buffet. They are the carrier for BoatUS. I had a 
similar experience. 

 

On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 9:32 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

When I was shopping for insurance for our current boat, $85k value, boat us was 
the highest.  I went with a company called seaworthy (just a coincidence).  
They were 1/2 what boat us wanted.  They have since been bought by gieco which 
now owns boat us I'm told.   Strange...  

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 

 Original message 

From: svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  

Date: 2/3/18 9:39 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: svrebeccaleah  

Subject: Re: Stus-List insurance 

 

I am with Red Sield $850 for $60k. This is also live aboard, think my 
deductible is $1000. 

 

Doug Mountjoy 

Rebecca Leah 

LF39

POYC, WA

 

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 

 Original message 

From: ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List  

Date: 2/3/18 12:50 (GMT-08:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: ahycrace ahycrace  

Subject: Stus-List insurance 

 

Hello all

               Well I just got my insurance bill from boat US and it went up 
238$  a pretty big increase.  I called to ask why and they said it was nothing 
on my end rates just went up.  I am wondering if everybody else got raised as 
well?  I tried to increase my deductible  which is zero, to say 4% or so to 
lower my rates. They said they can't do that because they have a automatic 
lowering of the deductible over time and once it reaches zero it must stay 
there. Sounds like they just want to keep the bill up! 1100$ for 40k, might 
have to start shopping, any feedback?

 

                                                             Gary K  "Liberty"  
1976  38'  MKll

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Joel 
301 541 8551




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Re: Stus-List wrapping life sling

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

FWIW, I bought one of these a number of years ago and have been 
very pleased.  It has held up beautifully and looks good on the stern rail.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 



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On Fri, Jan 5, 2018 at 6:39 PM -0600, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Awesome!Thanks. 
On Fri, Jan 5, 2018 at 7:35 PM Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Sunbrella lifesling coversAny color, fits over existing bag to match your 
existing canvas.DETAILS  
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 5, 2018, at 6:53 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
wrote:

Buy sunbrella and then make a bag. easy to 
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Re: Stus-List New Lister - Need Help Identifying Water System Fitting Type - C 36 1981

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Josh,
 
Thanks, that link is just what I was looking for!
 
Jim
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List New Lister - Need 
Help Identifying Water System Fitting Type - C 36 1981
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 12/12/17 12:57 pm
To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com>

  It doesn't look like it matters.  The ABC designators are just different 
manufacturing techniques, the dimensions are standard.
 
https://www.pexuniverse.com/content/types-of-pex-tubing
 
I would suggest that despite being able to be bent to reach and articulate 
between source and destination, in the boat you'll want to use elbows to change 
direction. 
 
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
 
 


 On Dec 12, 2017 1:56 PM, "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
  This thread helped me out too.  I am starting to plan for the slow 
replacement of the Qest in my boat with PEX as I have plumbing projects.  I 
have a water tank that appears to have a clog either in the outlet pipe or in 
the tank, that might be a good starter project.  One question though.  Does it 
matter which PEX is used with Flair-It for marine applications?  I notice that 
the Flair-It company sells both A and B types, but I don't really know what the 
difference is on a boat.  Thanks for any advice on this.
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List New Lister - Need 
Help Identifying Water System Fitting Type - C 36 1981
From: "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 12/12/17 10:02 am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Tim Rutherford" <tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com>

 A few simple words, Qest/Zurn/Flair-It, and now I'm off in the right 
direction! Thanks for sharing your experiences and recommendations. 
   --
Tim Rutherford
C 36' - #244
Chamam
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Cell/text 813-748-4888


 On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 4:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 Qest was made by Zurn out of polybutylene plastic.  The fittings have some 
great advantages including the ability to assemble/disassemble without tools 
and freeze resistance.  The problem is that chlorine has the effect of 
degrading the plastic and making it brittle.  You'll probably notice that the 
areas in contact with the water are white.  The plastic wasn't made that way is 
was bleached.  There was a class action law suit against Zurn.  Zurn is now the 
current maker of PEX which IIRC is made from HDPE and is not compatible with 
Qest in any way.  
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 
 


  On Mon, Dec 11, 2017, 3:59 PM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
   
 Newbie here. Bought my first keelboat in June of this year, a 1981 C 36' 
with a centerboard. These boats are highly regarded in this area and 
personally, I absolutely love mine. Been racing other-people's-boats and 
bareboat cruising  in Tampa Bay and the Caribbean for decades. I am a member of 
the Davis Island Yacht Club. I am an electrical engineer with specialty in 
automation and controls and I work with a Florida electric cooperative utility. 
Joined the database and this list just a few weeks ago.
  
Looking for a source of a replacement parts for the pressurized water system 
tubing & fittings. One of compression nuts is cracked. The elbow fitting on the 
vent line shown in the photo is the type in question although the broken nut is 
elsewhere. I also wonder if the ferrule and back-up ring can be removed and 
replaced, or if it must be cut off and replaced with a new one.
 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5A2zIupq2XBbHhyLWRRcGhXSXRpeG9oVlVlY0FTRjhndEdj

The line size is 1/2" O.D. X 3/8" I.D. and the tubing is made of an unknown 
type of hard gray plastic. It doesn't appear to have any markings.



Any help is appreciated.
 
 --
Tim Rutherford
Chamam
C 36' - #244
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Cell/text 813-748-4888



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___ Thanks everyone for supporting 
this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 

Re: Stus-List New Lister - Need Help Identifying Water System Fitting Type - C 36 1981

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

This thread helped me out too.  I am starting to plan for the slow replacement 
of the Qest in my boat with PEX as I have plumbing projects.  I have a water 
tank that appears to have a clog either in the outlet pipe or in the tank, that 
might be a good starter project.  One question though.  Does it matter which 
PEX is used with Flair-It for marine applications?  I notice that the Flair-It 
company sells both A and B types, but I don't really know what the difference 
is on a boat.  Thanks for any advice on this.
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List New Lister - Need 
Help Identifying Water System Fitting Type - C 36 1981
From: "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" 
Date: 12/12/17 10:02 am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Tim Rutherford" 

 A few simple words, Qest/Zurn/Flair-It, and now I'm off in the right 
direction! Thanks for sharing your experiences and recommendations. 
   --
Tim Rutherford
C 36' - #244
Chamam
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Cell/text 813-748-4888


 On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 4:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Qest was made by Zurn out of polybutylene plastic.  The fittings have some 
great advantages including the ability to assemble/disassemble without tools 
and freeze resistance.  The problem is that chlorine has the effect of 
degrading the plastic and making it brittle.  You'll probably notice that the 
areas in contact with the water are white.  The plastic wasn't made that way is 
was bleached.  There was a class action law suit against Zurn.  Zurn is now the 
current maker of PEX which IIRC is made from HDPE and is not compatible with 
Qest in any way.  
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 
 


  On Mon, Dec 11, 2017, 3:59 PM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   
 Newbie here. Bought my first keelboat in June of this year, a 1981 C 36' 
with a centerboard. These boats are highly regarded in this area and 
personally, I absolutely love mine. Been racing other-people's-boats and 
bareboat cruising  in Tampa Bay and the Caribbean for decades. I am a member of 
the Davis Island Yacht Club. I am an electrical engineer with specialty in 
automation and controls and I work with a Florida electric cooperative utility. 
Joined the database and this list just a few weeks ago.
  
Looking for a source of a replacement parts for the pressurized water system 
tubing & fittings. One of compression nuts is cracked. The elbow fitting on the 
vent line shown in the photo is the type in question although the broken nut is 
elsewhere. I also wonder if the ferrule and back-up ring can be removed and 
replaced, or if it must be cut off and replaced with a new one.
 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5A2zIupq2XBbHhyLWRRcGhXSXRpeG9oVlVlY0FTRjhndEdj

The line size is 1/2" O.D. X 3/8" I.D. and the tubing is made of an unknown 
type of hard gray plastic. It doesn't appear to have any markings.



Any help is appreciated.
 
 --
Tim Rutherford
Chamam
C 36' - #244
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Cell/text 813-748-4888



 ___
 
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
  


___ Thanks everyone for supporting 
this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
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___

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Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C 30-2 vs Tartan 31

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

 
A couple of comments here.
 
First, I can confirm that the chainplates on the 30-2 are mounted to the 
bulkhead behind the settee cushion rather than to the hull itself.  However, 
the load is transferred by a beefy aluminum casting, the bulkhead is quite 
thick and the casting is secured by 5 or 6 large bolts.  The advantage of this 
design is that you can actually remove the chainplates for rebedding with 
relative ease.  I did it last year, not a bad job at all.  Mine came with 
access panels in that area that don't look original, not sure if there is a way 
to get the nuts off otherwise.
 
Regarding the table, I have owned boats with both types of layout.  My Catalina 
27 had the bulkhead folding table, and I currently have a 30-2.   My daughter, 
now 11, has always considered the V-berth "her room" and spends most of her 
time there when we are at the dock, so the table does not matter.   The thing 
that we have found is that the table on the 30-2 still has some value with both 
leaves folded down.  At the dock, it is wide enough for a glass or can to be 
placed on it.  The problem with the bulkhead mount table is that it is all or 
nothing, and with it folded up there is no place for the people in the middle 
of the settees to place anything.  I also think that the curved settee in a 
dinette layout is much more comfortable for conversation.  With the settee's 
full, we always felt like we were sitting in a hallway on the Catalina.  
 
Good luck with your decision.  I feel like you can't really go wrong, but I 
also love my 30-2 and never regretted buying her.  I also think Mike is spot on 
about the aft cabin, that really makes a difference.  
 
Regards,
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about 
cabin table and C 30-2 vs Tartan 31
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date: 10/11/17 10:52 am
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 

  Hi Lisle and also others
 I think fixed table or fold up table has a lot to do with how you intend to 
use the boat.  We have raced on a C 115 which had the fixed table.  Very nice 
layout when spending time below but when racing the fixed table makes packing a 
spinnaker more arduous.
 Our current boat has a fold up to bulkhead table as did our Niagara 26 (most 
Niagaras had a dinette).  When we are cruising inshore we put the table down 
and leave the stbd side leaf folded down.  This is in fact very similar to a 
fixed table with the port leaf up and stbd leaf down.  Room to get by but also 
more room to put snacks and other items.  Really I do not think it matters all 
that much which you have
 The BIG DIFFERENCE I see between the Tartan and C is the aft cabin vs a 
quarterberth.  When our girls were small we lived aboard our Niagara 26 most 
weekends in the summer.  They were 6 and 8 when we started and we did this for 
several years.  Initially they would sleep in the vee berth which left the rest 
of the boat free for us and guests once they were asleep.  Once they got older 
they wanted their own bunks and insisted on sleeping on the settees which was 
less convenient all round.  With a two cabin layout you have a LOT MORE bedroom 
options for your children and can keep the main cabin free for a common area.  
I think in many ways the 30-2 C affords more flexibility for staying 
overnight with small children than a boat with an open quarterberth.  The 
downside is that the vee berth and quarterberth on the C_C 30-2 will likely be 
more cramped than the vee berth on the Tartan.
 Our first boat (C designed Paceship P23) had a dinette.  It was fun for the 
two girls who were 5 and 7 at the time because it fit them (and no one else).  
A big pain with that setup when having 4 aboard was it had to be folded down at 
night to be a bed and up in the day to give a useful surface.
 These are just some thoughts I wanted to share about spending time aboard with 
small children for the two layouts you had mentioned
 Mike
 Persistence
 1987 Frers 33
 Halifax, NS
 
 
 On Oct 11, 2017, at 6:09 AM, Lisle Kingery, PhD  
wrote:
  Thanks for all the helpful replies on cabin table options. I've pretty 
much narrowed my boat choices down to either a C 30MKii or a Tartan 31 at 
this point. The Tartan's interior appears more open with the folding table 
mounted on the bulkhead vs. the fixed table on the C I will mainly be 
day-sailing and hanging out on the dock with a few overnights so I'm thinking 
the more open cabin might work better with the kids. comparison pics link below.
 


 

  
 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5w1TuAY4gTRam1qNlBuWExhSW8
 
 
 Thanks,
 
 Lisle
 



 
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in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising 
month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep 

Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

Are those dimmable?  It does not say in the write online at least.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of svpegasus38 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 11:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasus38 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

 

I replaced a couple of fluorescent tubes with the Marine beam led tubes. Had to 
eliminate the ballast from the system. There is instructions either online or 
included with the led tubes (can't remember). 

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Doug Mountjoy 

POYC 

Pegasus (for sale) 

Lf38 

Rebecca Leah LF39 

 

 Original message 

From: kelly petew via CnC-List  > 

Date: 10/8/17 08:35 (GMT-08:00) 

To: cnc-list  > 

Cc: kelly petew  > 

Subject: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements 

 

Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original fluorescents 
with LEDs?  

Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the existing 
fixture??

 

Thanks!!

 

Pete W.

 

Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.

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Re: Stus-List question about a C 30 mkii keel

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

When I owned a Catalina 27, the email list for that boat talked 
a lot about the “Catalina smile”.  It’s not unique to C
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee




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On Sat, Sep 23, 2017 at 7:08 AM -0500, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 wrote:














I don’t know the model, but the “C smile” is commonplace.  They 
did not do a great job mating the keel and fiberglass at the joint.
 
Anyone know this particular model? 


 

From: Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2017 7:37 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lisle Kingery, PhD 
Subject: Stus-List question about a C 30 mkii 
keel
 

Hi all, 
 
More questions from an aspiring C owner. :)
 
I'm considering this 1987 C 30mkii and overall it looks interesting. 

 
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1987/C%26C-30-3079275/Rochester/NY/United-States#.WcRLTWiPJPY

 
I'm stuck with a draft of 5 or under where I'll be keeping the eventual 
sailboat I get and this is the only wing keel version I see available at least 
reasonably nearby. 
 
I have a question about what appears to be at least a surface crack along 
the middle of the keel that goes pretty much the entire length of the keel. 

 
I've pasted the picture into the email below but not sure if that is going 
to show up on the listserv. 
 
If not, if anyone familiar with this model in particular could let me know 
if you could take a quick look at the picture and provide an opinion on normal 
vs. abnormal I could email pics. Thanks for your consideration.
 
Lisle
 






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Contributions are greatly appreciated!






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Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

There was a note in our local paper in June that Kracor had 
been sold to Yamaha Marine.   I wonder if the new owners are taking a different 
approach to end user sales.  That would be unfortunate.
http://jsonl.in/2sM2I2R
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



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On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:02 PM -0500, "Jim Watts via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










When I was replacing my aluminum holding tank (that had weird glowing blue 
crystals on it and didn't fit right anyhow) I got in touch with Kracor.
They were willing to sell to me (eleven years ago), but had none of that size 
in stock and would charge me $200 to set up the mold, plus tank cost plus 
shipping from Florida. I had a tank custom-made locally for about the same 
price. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 20 September 2017 at 07:58, Robbie Epstein via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I ordered mine directly from Kracor, and even paid for a custom length.



Robbie



Sent from my iPad



> On Sep 20, 2017, at 8:48 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

>

> Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

 
When I owned an Atomic 4, I was told to close the water intake when cranking 
the engine for more than a few seconds because the waterways in the block were 
open at the top and would splash into the oil sump under heavy cranking.  After 
a number of initial problems with water in the oil, this cleared things up, so 
I always believed it.  
 
I had a similar issue with that engine cutting out.  In that case the issue was 
a hairline crack in the rotor in the distributor.  When it heated up enough, it 
would distort and no longer make proper contact with the points.  
 
I sold that boat to buy my 30-2 with a Yanmar and have never regretted it!  
Diesels have their own challenges, but it just seems like there is a lot more 
to wrong with an A4.
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "FIrewater"
Milwaukee, WI 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out
From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
Date: 9/18/17 10:14 am
To: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
Cc: "Danny Haughey" 

depending on how much cranking you did, could be hydro locked? pull the 
 plugs and see how they look and hope you don't get water out.
 
 I did have an issue with a bad wire to the coil.  it seemed the wire 
 would heat up and beak the connection somehow after running a bit and 
 then allow it to start again after it cooled a while.  I replaced the 
 wire and it did the trick.
 
 Danny
 
 
 On 9/18/2017 10:37 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
 > I would jump over to the Moyer Marine forum for this.
 > http://www.moyermarine.com/
 >
 > Joe
 > Coquina
 > C 35 MK I
 >
 >
 > -Original Message-
 > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randal 
 > Stafford via CnC-List
 > Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 10:30 AM
 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 > Cc: Randal Stafford 
 > Subject: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out
 >
 > Listers-
 >
 > I'm having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some 
 > thoughts to share.
 >
 > When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always. But 
 > then she cut out heading away from the marina. Initially I suspected a fuel 
 > flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn. After 
 > ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
 > started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes. Then she cut 
 > out again, and wouldn't start back up after some cranking. I sailed for a 
 > couple hours anyway. When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
 > happened when I pressed the starter button. I assumed my batteries didn't 
 > have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, 
 > though my other electronics were running fine. So I docked under sail power, 
 > pulled the batteries, and brought them home to charge. They both tested at 
 > 12.7 volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger. Now they're both at 
 > 100% and 12.9 volts.
 >
 > So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
 > circuit. Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
 > as pushing in the ignition switch. I've yet to get into the lazarette and 
 > start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that's my next 
 > step. I thought I'd write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
 > hypotheses.
 >
 > Thanks in Advance,
 > Randy Stafford
 > S/V Grenadine
 > C 301- #7
 > Ken Caryl, CO
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 >
 > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
 > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
 > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 >
 > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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 >
 > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
 > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
 > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 >
 > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

All good points, I appreciate your perspectives.  I will 
proceed with a lot more confidence now, thanks!
Jim



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On Sat, Aug 12, 2017 at 8:56 AM -0500, "BillBinaList via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:











  

  
  


Also critical to note that the USCG does not CERTIFY any items or
  products. They are not, "Good Housekeeping",  or, "U.L. Labs",
  which are privately owned services. The USCG publishes their
  standards, and manufacturers themselves certify that their product
  meets those standards. AquaSignal is merely giving themselves
  legal cover if you try to claim that they sold you a non-compliant
  piece of equipment. If you modify the fixture, they are absolving
  themselves of any responsibility. 




Bill Bina




On 8/11/2017 5:17 PM, Dennis C. via
  CnC-List wrote:



  Jim,



I spent 30 years in the regulatory field.  There's always
  some fine points to compliance.  There's differences between
  regulation, enforcement policy, equipment certifications,
  etc.  There is the occasional Coastie that will try to jam an
  enforcement policy up your nose but in the end, the
  regulations are what rule.



AquaSignal has gotten their light fixtures, with bulbs,
  "certified" to USCG standards.  Aquasignal gets their fixtures
  "certified" to assure their customers that the fixture meets
  the regulatory requirements for color, arc, visibility
  distance, etc.  Whoopee.  



Now, consider the actual regulations that apply to your
  boat.  Federal light requirements for vessels can be found in
  33 CFR 83.20-31.  This regulation states the colors, arcs, and
  visibility distances for vessels.



I think that is the regulation that applies.  I don't think
  it says anywhere that you have to use a "certified" fixture
  only that the light meet the requirements for color, arc,
  visibility distance, etc.  If you change the bulb in a
  "certified" fixture, it may no longer be "certified" but may
  well meet the regulation and your boat will be in compliance.



So, in my opinion, you can use a candle in a Pringles can
  as long as it meets the requirements for color, arc,
  visibility distance, etc.  I wouldn't expect a Coastie to
  argue with you if your lights look anywhere close to bright
  and are the correct color and arc.



Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
    
      

On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 3:02 PM,
  Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:

  
I agree about Marinebeam, I have used them for
  other lights on my boat, always with good results.  
 
Aqua Signal throws up a lot of smoke and noise
  about losing certifications by replacing the bulbs in
  their fixtures, is this a real concern or just them
  trying to get me to spend more with them?
 
http://www.aquasignal.com.au/aftermarket-led-replacement-bulbs/
 





  



  

  
  

  
  

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Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I agree about Marinebeam, I have used them for other lights on my boat, always 
with good results.  
 
Aqua Signal throws up a lot of smoke and noise about losing certifications by 
replacing the bulbs in their fixtures, is this a real concern or just them 
trying to get me to spend more with them?
 
http://www.aquasignal.com.au/aftermarket-led-replacement-bulbs/
 
Interested in opinions, my bow lights are the last incandescent bulbs left on 
Firewater now.
 
Thanks,
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI 
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern 
light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
Date: 8/11/17 8:21 am
To: "CnClist" 
Cc: "Dennis C." 

 Bruce,  
Go to http://store.marinebeam.com/replacement-bulbs/.  If you can't identify 
it, call them.  They are helpful.
 
Many of us on the list have had great results with their lights and bulbs.  I 
think they are superior.
 
Nearly every LED on Touche' plus several fixtures are from marinebeam.  
 
Very satisfied customer.
 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandevile, LA

 On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 8:21 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:
First to Richard, who started this thread:  
 
First, identify the light.  On our 1994 C 37/40+, ours lights are Aqua Signal 
41 series lights.  1 screw at the bottom will remove the lens.  As for the 
bulb, in these, they are specifically Aqua Signal brand labled, and are 25 watt 
incandescent bulbs on the bow lights and 10 watt on the stern. 
 
The base is 1/2 across, but the pins are offset, one higher than another.  I 
don't know if this is an Aqua Signal brand thing going on, or if this is a 
standard base for a similar automotive bulb number - does anyone know?
 
I'd like to convert our lights to LED, as 60 watts of total power for nav 
lights is 5 amps, and with LEDs, I should be able to drop that to 1 amp or less 
- that in my mind is a huge difference for cruising overnight.  
 
Does anyone know the proper LEDs for accomplishing this, and at a reasonable 
price?  Yes, I understand if I put a bulb in that isn't specifically designed 
for the light I may be deviating from the MFR requirements and thus maybe 
causing an issue if there were to be an accident.  Still, it's better than 
running down a battery in my opinion.
 
One other note - From everything I have read, red LED replacements should be 
placed behind red lenses and green behind green lenses (rather than using white 
bulbs).  This is because the colored LEDs produce light that is close to the 
same wavelength as the lenses, so the filter very little of the light.  
 
Guidance anyone?  
 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net




From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 To: Richard Walter via CnC-List  
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
 Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:20 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light
 

   
Consider mooring stern in, if possible, and work from the dock.
 
Marek
 
Sent from  Mail for Windows 10
 
From: Richard Walter via CnC-List
 Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 20:35
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Richard Walter
 Subject: Stus-List changing stern light

 


Ahoy!   
Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb for an OEM 
1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb while we're in the water? 
I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc. to the transom to try to minimize 
dropping pieces overboard. 3) wait till the boat's on the hard? 
 
Thanks, 
Richard Walter 
s/v INDIGO 




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 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
  


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greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Rules of the Road

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Sometimes they do get what they deserve.  A number of years ago we were in the inner harbor of our home port, a clearly posted no wake zone, headed toward our slip.  We were passed and nearly swamped by a large powerboat throwing up a big wake.  I was irate since our young daughter was on deck at the time and hailed the marina.  Their response was "don't worry, we saw it".  The powerboat's slip happened to be the face dock of the same pier where the police and sheriff boats docked, and there were 4 officers waiting for him as he pulled in.  I heard that in addition to speeding violations, they also did a meticulous safety inspection and threw the book at him for some shortcomings there.  I have to admit to some satisfaction on that one.The epilogue to this one is that a few years later, I saw the same boat sitting in a riverfront boatyard with the entire fly bridge sheared off like he had driven under a low bridge at high speed.  I guess some people never learn, though I hope he did not injure someone else in that incident.  Jim Reinardy C 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI 


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rules of the Road
From: David via CnC-List 
Date: Tue, July 18, 2017 11:07 am
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 

We were powered up on a broad reach with a chute heading eastward down LIS doing about 9 knots with just Lady Di and I.  Clear  September weekday so empty waters.  And a rare morning sail with great wind from the right direction.    Fishing dragger with stabilizers down is slowing bearing down on us from astern.   30 minutes later and he would have run right up our transom if I did not alter course and risk a roundup in the process    Prick was on bridge.  Wouldnt answer radio.     Some of those commercial guys just have a bad attitude towards us "yachties"     Either it's black or white with them...competent or maliciously incompetent.     1981 40-2.  Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone Original message  From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List   Date: 7/18/17 1:24 PM (GMT-05:00)  To: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List   Cc: Danny Haughey   Subject: Re: Stus-List Rules of the Road when we were on our 22 foot sailboat we got swamped by a bis a$$ powers  boat's wake because he couldn't be bother to give us any room and passed  us about 20 feet off our bow throwing a 4' wake. Then they had the nerve  to wave...  My wife waved back with 1 finger while hanging off the  shrouds.  That wake came up over the bow and right down the companionway...  Last summer, I was watching this sail boat flying a spinnaker closing on  us from the stern to port.  We were running wing and wing doing about 4  knots in a light breeze.  Now, I watched them for at least 40 minutes,  when I first saw them they could simply have changed their course by one  degree and came well aft. instead, they close within shouting distance  and the lady on the helm yells over, "can you give us some room?"  I  shouted back, "what do you want me to do?"  she replies, "head up!"   Upon which two other crew members seemed to say something to her and  they dropped the sock over the spin, came across my stern and opened the  little spin back up.  I assumed the stand on position of being the  overtaken vessel and knew it was their job to get around me. I could not  figure out what they were doing and decided the best thing i could do  was stand on.  Luckily it worked out!  Danny   On 7/18/2017 12:59 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote: > Glad you were able get away without any damages... I have had a few of these here in Chesapeake. Once the "captain" of the power boat actually turned around and yelled at me for not changing course... > > Cheers, > AR > >> On Jul 18, 2017, at 10:32 AM, robert via CnC-List  wrote: >> >> Yesterday afternoon, having a pleasant sail in Halifax harbor, 5.5 knots, starboard tack with a 25' to 30' cape island power boat approaching at about the same speed on my port side. >> >> As we approached each other, I was judging distance and time and it became clear we were on a collision course.  Since I was under sail and he was a leisure boat, not commercial, under power I assumed he would give way..maybe slow his speed and let me cross in front of him or he would duck behind me. >> >> Not happeningI could see him looking right at me so it was not a case where he didn't, couldn't see me.at the last moment when I realized he wasn't going to give me right of way,  I 'crashed tacked'..I didn't even have time to release the jib...just spun around 180 degrees and he passed approx. 3' from my transom. There were two people sitting in chairs on his back deck that saw me and looked bewildered wondering why I was so close to them. >> >> He didn't slow down, didn't alter his course, didn't acknowledge me in any way.   If 

Re: Stus-List NMEA 2k wind instrument problem

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Chris,I just went through this with my B system this season.  I can give you an idea of what helped me.Do you have access to the conductors on the wire going up the mast?  If so, you can test the following:Red and Black conductors should read 12v with the wire connected into the rest of the system and the bus powered.  The B wind transducer has built in NMEA 2000 terminator, so if the Garmin is similar you can measure the connectivity of the network wiring.  The blue and white wires should show 60 ohms with the mast wiring isolated, and 120 ohms with both backbone terminators visible.  All conductors should show a very high resistance relative to the bare conductor.  If all that checks out, I would begin to suspect the transducer itself.In my case as I reported earlier in this forum, the transducer brought my whole network down.  I proved that it was the issue the hard way, by pulling my wife up the mast to retrieve it, then installing it at the masthead of a friends boat with a similar system.  (The B system uses a proprietary connector for the masthead transducer, so it is hard to test any other way).  The transducer killed his network too, so I was quite confident about where the issue was.  B gave me a heavily discounted price on a new one since it was out of warranty but inside 5 years old.  I put that in last week and all is good now.Jim Reinardy C 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI 


 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List NMEA 2k wind instrument problem
From: Chris Hickey via CnC-List 
Date: Wed, June 28, 2017 7:15 am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Hickey 

I've got a NMEA 2k network aboard my C 30, including a Garmin GWS 10 wind sensor at the top of the mast. Everything was working well at the end of last season, but when I launched and stepped my mast this spring I found that the wind speed/direction was not appearing on my instruments. The other components (depth, sea temp, speed) appear to be working fine. The mast cable attached to the network with a field installable connector and I've rechecked those connections and they look good. I've also tried a different tee connector to make sure that wasn't the problem, but still no luck.Are there any other tests or diagnostics I can run to determine the root of the problem without having to send someone up the mast? I'm guessing the possibilities are either a bad connection between the mast cable and wind sensor or a failure of the sensor itself, but I'm open to any tips or suggestions you might have!Thanks,ChrisSV Seeker - C 30Holyrood, NL ___

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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

All, I can share my recent experience on this.  I had Loos gauges for my old Catalina with stranded rigging and came to like having that piece of mind.  When I bought my C with rod, I had trouble with the cost of the RT-10 and did not buy one for several years.I put out an inquiry several weeks ago and Harry Hallgring from the list was kind enough to ship me his gauge to try.   It turned out that in previous years I was nowhere near tight enough doing it by feel, the gauge gave me the confidence to tighten them down properly.  I can confirm that it has made a substantial difference in how the boat sails and eliminated some issues we had with differences between tacks.I was also surprised at how quickly the tension changes with rod as Rob points out below.  Once you get to a certain tension, the gauge moves rapidly with only a little movement of the turnbuckle.Long story short, I am now sold on the value of the RT-10, though it still seems like a lot to pay.  I started looking for a used one, but came across new ones at the Binnacle's US site (http://us.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9150) for $426, no tax and free shipping.  That seemed too good to pass up and I was not sure how long it would last, so I am now the owner of an RT-10.Jim Reinardy C 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI 


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32
From: Dave S via CnC-List 
Date: Wed, June 14, 2017 7:55 am
To: "C Stus List" 
Cc: Dave S 

Thanks.  I lack both experience and empirical data, (no gauge) so your input really helps.  I suspect that I simply did not set it up correctly initially.  Last week's sail was in 14-16kts, gusts to 19, rare-ish here, a fair bit of "bash and crash" and first time this season, so any microbends certainly got unbent, and the unseated was seated.Dave-- Forwarded message --From: robert To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Bcc: Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2017 09:55:31 -0300Subject: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32 Dave: I can't add much to what Josh has stated.  Each Spring, the mast is stepped, I set the rig tensioned the same as every year.even if my boat sits at the dock, the shroud tension will ease a bit...maybe as much as 100 lbs. or 5% to 7% of the initial tension.   One half turn on my turnbuckle is not a lot of 'actual distance' gained or losed.as Josh says "a micro bend". however, if I leave the gauge on the shroud when the turnbuckle is tightened or loosened, it will move the gauge accordingly. Without the Loos RT 10, I am merely guessing the rig tension..under tensioning is obvious when you take the boat out under sail.over tensioning is not as easy to detect.  I come from a racing background where rig tension is paramount.we were constantly adjusting it to suit the conditions on race day..sometimes up and down between races on the same day   While I don't race AZURA, old habits like rig tensioning has remained with me.   Rob Abbott AZURA C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S.On 2017-06-13 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:"How do I gauge?" - this is the argument for paying $500 for the Loos Tension gauge, otherwise you are just guessing. I believe there are micro bends, stretches, seating, and flexing throughout the system which allow the rig to loosen up.  With such low stretch rod rigging only a fraction of an inch can be the difference between hundreds of pounds of tension and zero pounds.Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn Jun 13, 2017 12:40 PM, "Dave S via CnC-List"  wrote:Timely...   I set up my rigging per the instructions in the owners manual immediately after launch, and Windstar sat for a few weeks other than a couple of very gentle sails.  Finally got to give her a righteous thrashing last weekend and I returned with slack upper shrouds - a bit alarming.  Lowers and mids not obviously changed, mast step not collapsing, chainplates not failing. I suspect I had not adequately tightened the uppers.  A neighbor explained that his boat changes shape a bit once launched (or rather, sitting on the cradle all winter distorts it a bit.) Without a gauge, how do I gauge that ensure that the shrouds are tight enough?  Deflection?What is it that re-seats and settles when the rig is first set up?Tx.Dave ___

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 2000 network down

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Partial luck today.  No success restarting from the Zeus, I never could get it 
to see any devices.  After that, I pretty much took the system apart and built 
it up piece by piece starting with a depth/speed transducer and a single 
display.  Once that worked, I added things back in and figured out the issue is 
either the wind transducer or the cable in the mast going up to it.  The minute 
I add that to the system at the base of the mast, the NMEA 2000 network just 
crashes.  Take it out and all the other devices work and see each other 
immediately. The cable does not show any shorts and the blue/white pair 
registers 120 ohms when isolated from the rest of the system, indicating 
connectivity all the way the termination point in the transducer.  Because of 
that and the dramatic results when it is wired in, I suspect the transducer 
itself, but have a message into B support to get their advice.  I added 
another terminator at the base of the mast and left the transducer out of the 
system for the time being to at least have speed, depth, heading and AIS data 
for now.  Thanks for the suggestions, I will post again when I get some 
resolution.

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

 

From: Jim Reinardy [mailto:firewa...@reinardy.us] 
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2017 9:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 2000 network down

 

Thanks, Gary.  I will try that.  I initialized it from one of the Tritons but 
not the Zeus.  Currently, the Zeus only sees itself.

 

Jim

 

Get Outlook for iOS <https://aka.ms/o0ukef> 





On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 8:46 PM -0500, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The bus must be initialized by the Zeus MFD.  Try  reinitializing the network 
from the Zeus2.  As I recall, it will tell you what devices it sees on the 
network.

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 5:01 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Having big instrument issues to start the season and going crazy trying to 
figure it out. This is all B equipment including a Zeus Touch 7 and three 
Triton displays.  All displays power up fine but I am getting no data from 
wind, depth, speed or compass transducers.  The diagnostic on the displays say 
that the NMEA 2000 bus is off, but I don't know why.

 

The red and black wires show 12v at all points I can measure.  The resistance 
of white and blue is 60 ohms with both ends terminated, 120 ohms with either 
terminator off, and about 20k ohms with both terminators off.  This seems 
normal based on articles I found online. I have also tried taking each piece of 
equipment out of the loop as best I can.  Nothing I do seems to give me a 
network.  Any ideas what I am missing?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI

 

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 2000 network down

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Thanks, Gary.  I will try that.  I initialized it from one of 
the Tritons but not the Zeus.  Currently, the Zeus only sees itself.
Jim


Get Outlook for iOS






On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 8:46 PM -0500, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:










The bus must be initialized by the Zeus MFD.  Try  reinitializing the network 
from the Zeus2.  As I recall, it will tell you what devices it sees on the 
network.GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 5:01 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:








Having big instrument issues to start the season and going 
crazy trying to figure it out. This is all B equipment including a Zeus Touch 
7 and three Triton displays.  All displays power up fine but I am getting no 
data from wind, depth, speed or compass transducers.  The diagnostic on the 
displays say that the NMEA 2000 bus is off, but I don't know why.
The red and black wires show 12v at all points I can measure.  The resistance 
of white and blue is 60 ohms with both ends terminated, 120 ohms with either 
terminator off, and about 20k ohms with both terminators off.  This seems 
normal based on articles I found online. I have also tried taking each piece of 
equipment out of the loop as best I can.  Nothing I do seems to give me a 
network.  Any ideas what I am missing?
Thanks,
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI


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Re: Stus-List NMEA 2000 network down

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

 

Thanks for the reply.  I know that there is one on the helm display, and my 
understanding is that there is one built into the masthead wind transducer on 
the other end.  I also am measuring 60 ohms on the bus itself (blue and white 
wires).  According the website linked below, this would indicate the presence 
of endcaps or terminators on both ends.  If I disconnect the wind transducer or 
take the endcap off the helm display, I get 120 ohms just like I am supposed to.

 

https://www.maretron.com/support/knowledgebase/phpkbv7/article.php?id=443

 

This system is over 3 years old and has worked well.  It was not working on the 
final trip to winter storage last year, so something must have happened even 
before last winter.

 

Thanks again,

 

Jim

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2017 5:51 PM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 2000 network down

 

Don't really know much about N2K but do you have end caps on the ends of the 
bus?

 

Dennis C.

 

On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 4:01 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Having big instrument issues to start the season and going crazy trying to 
figure it out. This is all B equipment including a Zeus Touch 7 and three 
Triton displays.  All displays power up fine but I am getting no data from 
wind, depth, speed or compass transducers.  The diagnostic on the displays say 
that the NMEA 2000 bus is off, but I don't know why.

 

The red and black wires show 12v at all points I can measure.  The resistance 
of white and blue is 60 ohms with both ends terminated, 120 ohms with either 
terminator off, and about 20k ohms with both terminators off.  This seems 
normal based on articles I found online. I have also tried taking each piece of 
equipment out of the loop as best I can.  Nothing I do seems to give me a 
network.  Any ideas what I am missing?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI

 

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Stus-List NMEA 2000 network down

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Having big instrument issues to start the season and going 
crazy trying to figure it out. This is all B equipment including a Zeus Touch 
7 and three Triton displays.  All displays power up fine but I am getting no 
data from wind, depth, speed or compass transducers.  The diagnostic on the 
displays say that the NMEA 2000 bus is off, but I don't know why.
The red and black wires show 12v at all points I can measure.  The resistance 
of white and blue is 60 ohms with both ends terminated, 120 ohms with either 
terminator off, and about 20k ohms with both terminators off.  This seems 
normal based on articles I found online. I have also tried taking each piece of 
equipment out of the loop as best I can.  Nothing I do seems to give me a 
network.  Any ideas what I am missing?
Thanks,
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI


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Re: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Forgive my ignorance on this, but do your boats have a bendy mast?  My 30-2 has a baby stay with a 4:1 purchase, but I can't get much movement out of the rig with it at all.  We use the Cunningham quite a bit, but the baby stay is collecting dust.Jim Reinardy C 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date: Fri, May 19, 2017 5:21 am
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 

Josh   You are correct.  Baby stay is designed to help with mast pumping.  A side effect may be that bending mast opens leech somewhat. Since babystay is usually only used in windy conditions opening the leech is not such a bad thing.   On fractionally rigged boats which most C and our Frers unfortunately are not backstay is ALL ABOUT main sail and really opens leech.  Has much less effect on forestay tension than on masthead boat. The C 115 was fractional (more or less) and had a really bendy mast.  The main was very easily shaped with all the controls.  Going to masthead rig on Frers after years of trimming main on Niagara 26, J27 and C 115 made the main seem awkward and clunky for quite some time.  It is a lot more work to trim it effectively (IMO)   Back to our original point.  Opening or closing leech is a major tool in trimming main sail.  A tight sheet and vang does close the leech but wind it is usually bending mast that is a tool used to open leech vs in light wind   Mike   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 4:39 PM To: C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?     Mike I believe you are correct but isn't that simply a side effect?  Leech tension and sail twist should be controlled by the mail sheet and vang.  In fact I think the opening of the leech is experienced more with changes in backstay tension as a result of changing the position of the masthead.       Correct me if I'm wrong but I think that your statement is metaphorically equivalent to saying, "The backstay controls main sheet tension."  True the backstay can affect main sheet tension, but that's not its purpose.  Likewise, bending the mast can open the leech but that's not its purpose and the components designed to control the leech (vang and mainsheet) are still available to "close" it.  Kind of a does the tail wag the dog situation.      Josh Muckley   S/V Sea Hawk   1989 C 37+   Solomons, MD              On May 18, 2017 9:00 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  wrote:   And bending mast would also open leech   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 9:52 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?    Cunningham does flatten the sail but simply due to luff tension. If a baby stay is able to pull the belly of the mast forward then the luff is also pulled forward and the resulting shape of the sail is flatter.  Josh      On Thu, May 18, 2017, 8:18 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  wrote:   Doesn't the cunngham assist the halyard in moving draft forward?  -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 10:43 PM To: C Stus List Cc: Dave S Subject: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?  Both depower the main  Does the adjustable baby stay (mast bend) make the Cunningham (luff tension) redundant? I have an adjustable baby stay, is adding a Cunningham a waste of time?  Thanks , Dave 33-2  Sent from my iPhone ___  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!  ___  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!   ___  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!      ___

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Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

 
Harry,
 
I would take you up on that if you are willing to ship.  I would happily pay 
freight and a rental charge!
 
Jim Reinardy
 
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod 
tension gauge
From: "Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 5/18/17 2:54 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Harry Hallgring Jr" <hhallgr...@icloud.com>

 Who needs a Loos gauge?  I have one to lend

Harry
Newport, RI
 Sent from my iPhone 8 beta


On May 18, 2017, at 17:11, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:


  I'm sure somebody might be willing to let you borrow one for the cost of 
shipping... 

 On May 18, 2017 3:35 PM, "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
   Here is the reply from Loos:
 
"PT gauges are for wire rope only, there is no conversion for rod. The 
statement on the web site only infers that we make both kinds."
 
I guess it is RT series or nothing.  I have contacted the store in Newport, we 
will see if that pans out.  Thanks for all the help!
 
Jim
  Original Message ----
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge
 From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 Date: Thu, May 18, 2017 11:21 am
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: firewa...@reinardy.us
 
 Josh,
 
I am guessing you are right, but I sent a note to Loos about using the PT 
series and will share anything I get back. 
 
Thanks,
 
Jim
  Original Message 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge
 From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 Date: Thu, May 18, 2017 11:01 am
 To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
 
 Bought mine for ~$500.  There are ways to tune the rig without but I like the 
consistency and scientific order to doing it with a tension gauge.  My 
understanding is that you need an RT-10 or RT-11 for rod rigging.  The 
important factor being that rod is naturally more rigid than wire thus the 
scale is different. After tuning, the boat no longer has a pronounced 
favoritism for a port tack.
 
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


 On May 18, 2017 10:57 AM, "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
   Curious about those who have an RT-10 gauge, did you find a deal?  I see 
prices on those at about $500, which I am having trouble justifying.
 
Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
  
 

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
  

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 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 ___
 
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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 

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 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
  


  ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 ___ This list is supported by the 
generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset 
our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

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Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Here is the reply from Loos:"PT gauges are for wire rope only, there is no conversion for rod. The statement on the web site only infers that we make both kinds."I guess it is RT series or nothing.  I have contacted the store in Newport, we will see if that pans out.  Thanks for all the help!Jim


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge
From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: Thu, May 18, 2017 11:21 am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: firewa...@reinardy.us

Josh,I am guessing you are right, but I sent a note to Loos about using the PT series and will share anything I get back. Thanks,Jim    Original Message  Subject: Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: Thu, May 18, 2017 11:01 am To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>  Bought mine for ~$500.  There are ways to tune the rig without but I like the consistency and scientific order to doing it with a tension gauge.  My understanding is that you need an RT-10 or RT-11 for rod rigging.  The important factor being that rod is naturally more rigid than wire thus the scale is different.After tuning, the boat no longer has a pronounced favoritism for a port tack.Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn May 18, 2017 10:57 AM, "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Curious about those who have an RT-10 gauge, did you find a deal?  I see prices on those at about $500, which I am having trouble justifying.Jim ReinardyC 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI ___  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!  ___  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Josh,I am guessing you are right, but I sent a note to Loos about using the PT series and will share anything I get back. Thanks,Jim


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: Thu, May 18, 2017 11:01 am
To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>

Bought mine for ~$500.  There are ways to tune the rig without but I like the consistency and scientific order to doing it with a tension gauge.  My understanding is that you need an RT-10 or RT-11 for rod rigging.  The important factor being that rod is naturally more rigid than wire thus the scale is different.After tuning, the boat no longer has a pronounced favoritism for a port tack.Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn May 18, 2017 10:57 AM, "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Curious about those who have an RT-10 gauge, did you find a deal?  I see prices on those at about $500, which I am having trouble justifying.Jim ReinardyC 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI ___  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Mike,I think you are correct, yes.  I do see some indication that the PT series works for rod though.  Anybody using one of those?  That would be more in that $100 range as well.http://loosnaples.com/tension-gauges/professional-modelsJim


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: Thu, May 18, 2017 9:33 am
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com>

The model 90 is for cable not rod     From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 1:04 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic Subject: Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge    Their model 90 is substantially cheaper. If you are a rigger, you probably want the better model RT-10. But for checking the tension of you rig, a model 90 (there are two types (A and B) and you have to figure out which one would work for you) should be sufficient. And they cost around $100.       Marek  From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 10:57   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: firewa...@reinardy.usSubject: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge   Curious about those who have an RT-10 gauge, did you find a deal?  I see prices on those at about $500, which I am having trouble justifying.       Jim Reinardy   C 30-2 "Firewater"   Milwaukee, WI  ___

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Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Curious about those who have an RT-10 gauge, did you find a deal?  I see prices on those at about $500, which I am having trouble justifying.Jim ReinardyC 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI






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Stus-List Uncored areas on 30-2 deck

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I am about to reinstall the clutches and handrails on my 30-2.  The PO had
told me that C made some areas of the deck uncored where factory equipment
was installed with through-bolts.  I can hear a difference when tapping on
the area that the clutches are installed in, so I am guessing that is
uncored.  I am not as sure about the handrail attachment points.  Wondering
if I need to overdrill and fill these holes to be safe.  Any of you 30-2
owners investigated this?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI

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Re: Stus-List Looking for used sailboat stuff

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

We can kick in plenty of biting flies, in season.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

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On Mon, Dec 12, 2016 at 6:48 PM -0600, "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

Oh I have a really good supply of stifling heat and humidity.  More than 
willing to share.
Ron
Wild Cheri (on the hard in chilly STL)
C 30-1





From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2016 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for used sailboat stuff

The unmarked and unlit fish traps are all yours too!
Windless days with stifling heat and humidity can also be had.

Joel

On Mon, Dec 12, 2016 at 4:48 PM, Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I would be happy to send you any of my unused tides.

Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus


On Monday, December 12, 2016, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
Owning a sailboat is getting more and more expensive.  I'm hoping the list's 
holiday spirit will help me to cut costs with some used stuff.

Wanted:

Used wind.  Will consider most directions and speeds between 5 and 11 knots.
Used DC amps.  12 volts.  Preferably the smokeless kind.
Used AC amps.  120 volts 60hz will work fine.
Used diesel (post combustion is fine).
Used routes (with way points).  I will return any unused way points.
Lightly used lumens (preferably from LED lighting).
Used sunshine, preferably without UVA
Lightly used tacks and gybes.  Please consider offering equal numbers of port 
and starboard items

Please don't offer any used prop walk.  I have just enough.

Happy Holidays

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


--
Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38 hull #4
POYC



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/ 
stumurray

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--
Joel
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Early C Sails (was Re: 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Randy,

I am pretty sure that your "Irish" sail was made by Irish Boat Shop on Little 
Traverse Bay in Michigan.  They are still around, but no longer make sails.  I 
have a spinnaker that was made by them as well, it's actually signed by David 
Irish on one of the clews.  Mine has a cloverleaf logo in green.  When I first 
bought the sail, there was a reference to one of their employees that used to 
sew the sails, but I take it she has retired now.  You can check them out at  
www.irishboatshop.com.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "FIrewater"
Milwaukee, WI

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On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 12:37 PM -0600, "RANDY via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

Thank you for those interesting details Rob.  I've always wondered about the 
makers of the sails that came in my boat's inventory (C 30 MK I hull #7, 
built September 1972).  Thanks to your comment I now know about Hood Sails and 
Ed Botterell.  I've got a #1 genoa (~165%) and a storm jib from Hood Sails.  
I've also got a working jib and a short (spinnaker pole topping lift) staysail 
from Boston Sails presumably of Sarnia, Ontario 
(http://www.doyleboston.com/about.html).

Was it common for early C to be fitted with sails from those Lake Ontario 
-area sailmakers?  Anyone ever heard of a sailmaker named "Irish"?  (that's the 
logo on my mainsail, which according to the year stamped on its sail bag was 
made in 1982).

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


From: "Robert Mazza via CnC-List" 
To: "C Mailing List" 
Cc: "Robert Mazza" , "Martin DeYoung" 

Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2016 10:21:01 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)

Violeta,

One of the photos from Martin's link is quite historic (they are all historic, 
of course, but one more than the others). See attached. It shows Blair Vedder 
(owner), Erich Bruckmann (builder), Mark Ellis (C custom sales), and Ed 
Botterell (Hood sialimaker). I wish I had a higher resolution copy of this 
photo.

Rob Mazza

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 original cove stripe cover

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I ordered my cove striping here with good results: http://www.vinylstriping.com

I also used Holland for the sword and star logos.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

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On Wed, Nov 16, 2016 at 12:50 PM -0600, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


On Wed, Nov 16, 2016 at 12:16 PM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
> wrote:
The rigging shoppe on Midwest in Scarborough stocks a few widths and colors and 
can order colours and widths they don't have in stock


Thewrenchmonkey.com claims to sell 3M tapes.  Here's the one I used on Touche':

https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/3m/73403/

I think I bought mine from Amazon.com

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Cleat "covers"

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I have the ones from APS on our boat, highly recommended.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

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On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 3:30 PM -0600, "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

A USA source for the second one I included in my previous email:

http://www.apsltd.com/cleat-chocks-pair.html

Ken H.

On 13 November 2016 at 17:23, Ken Heaton 
> wrote:

On 13 November 2016 at 16:37, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> wrote:
cleat covers

Charlie,

Would something like this work?

http://www.solvingideas.com/index.html

or this?

http://www.yachtingsolutions.co.uk/cleat-boot-cleat-cover-2-pack.ir?cName=boat-classes-squib-accessories

Ken H.

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Re: Stus-List 1985 C 33-2 Cradle Needed (Raymond Macklin)

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Ray,

Where are you storing the boat for the winter?  Some of the yards in Milwaukee 
prefer jack stands or can at least accommodate them in lieu of cradles.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

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On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 1:40 PM -0500, "Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

Ray:  I have a 1985 C 33-2 in Kenosha with a cradle.
Your free to take any measurements you need to have one made.
I imported the boat & cradle from Toronto this past May.

Lee Rosenbaum
1985 C 33-2
Kookaburra
Kenosha, WI

--

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 12:12:43 -0500
From: Raymond Macklin >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C 33-2 Cradle Needed
Message-ID:

Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Lorne,
I have a Novacool unit that came with the boat, not sure if it is original or 
not.  On mine, the evaporator is on the settee side and the compressor is under 
the settee right next to the refrigerator compartment.  I agree with Kevin's 
statement that the 30-2's are pretty well insulated.  I keep ice in my freezer 
without issues, and food and beer stay cold in the refrigerator section.  It's 
night and day compared to my 70's Catalina 27 that had an icebox with a wooden 
lid and no insulation anywhere!
Regards,
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI

Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 18:33:38 -0600
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: lorne.se...@gmail.com

Sweet,  thanks.  I have an isotherm sitting in a box to install. 

Where did you put the compressor and where did you put the evaporator?  I plan 
to put the evaporator vertical against the side closest to the sink.   Any tip 
on install? 
On Jun 21, 2016 5:56 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List"  
wrote:
The 30-2's have are reasonably well insulated and do have an insulated lid like 
the other Rob Ball boats. I personally wouldn't go tearing into the cabinetry 
until after you install the refrigeration unit and see how it does, especially 
since you'll be on shore power. 
Our Isotherm does quite fine. The cooling setting goes from 1-10. We keep ours 
at 1.5, which keeps food frozen in the freezer compartment. At setting 2 the 
entire reefer begins to freeze!
Lorne, wait for other 30-2 members to weigh in. 60's and 70's boats are very 
different than late 80's / early 90's boats.
On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 4:27 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Our old boats were not designed for refrigeration.  You will definitely need 
more insulation from what was originally supplied with the boat.  In fact, if 
you look at the interior ceiling of your icebox, there is no insulation at all 
there unless a previous owner added some.  There are a lot of discussions about 
converting the old ice boxes to refrigeration on this forum.



Bob



> On Jun 21, 2016, at 7:16 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
> wrote:

>

> I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard.  I'm wondering if I need 
> to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box.

> How thick or good is the factory insulation?

> Thanks

>

> ___

>

> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!



Robert Boyer

s/v Rainy Days

C Landfall 38, Hull #230



2501 Boston Street

Mailbox #505

Baltimore, MD 21224







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___



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greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List 30MKII batteries

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Lorne,
I am not sure if my setup is standard, but I have a group 24 starting battery 
and 2 group 27 house batteries.  They are all in the back berth under an access 
panel.  In mine, the battery boxes with covers just barely fit without 
interfering with the access panel cover, so extra tall batteries could be an 
issue.
Regards,
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 "Firewater"Milwaukee, WI

Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 11:54:36 -0600
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 30MKII batteries
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: lorne.se...@gmail.com

1st, my boat is 2000 miles away so I can't check,  so I appreciate the help. 

What size batteries can fit my 1988 30MKII? 

My survey said a group 21 is bad.  No such thing.  I called and the old man 
doesn't remember which is bad.   I plan to pre buy my batteries since they are 
all about 8-9 years old. 

What is the required starting battery? 

What size/group are the 2 house batteries?  And,  will two 6 volt GC2 batteries 
fit,  they are taller than Group 31 but narrower. 

Thanks for any help. 

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Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

My setup is exactly like Allen’s, with Velcro attachment for the square hatches 
and framed screens for the smaller rectangular hatches.  We tend to use the 
rectangular hatches without the screens when we sleep in the back berth partly 
because of the reduction in airflow, partly because I forget we have them!  For 
the main cabin, the companionway screens are great.  I also have a Velcro 
screen for the v-berth hatch, that can be very useful as well.

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 7:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: allen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

 

I was referring to the smaller rectangular units.  Their aperture is small 
enough, but the screening cuts the flow to almost nothing. 

 

The companionway screen is large enough to admit a decent amount of air while 
keeping outs birds, bees and assorted flying insects.

 

Allen

 

From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 9:09 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Lorne Serpa   

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

 

Thank you for the info! 

How does the "wood framed screen in the companionway" stop air flow?

 

 

On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 11:41 AM, allen via CnC-List  > wrote:

There are two ports in my main cabin, one in the head and one in the aft cabin 
ceilings, all square.  The "screens" are flexible screening held in by Velcro 
around the edges.  The oblong ports in the head and aft cabin back walls and 
one opening horizontally on to cabin sole are factory made units that came with 
the ports. I have another Velcro held screen in the fore cabin, and a wood 
framed screen in the companionway.

 

We rarely use the framed units because it cuts down the airflow.

 

Allen

 

From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 1:41 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Lorne Serpa   

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

 

The 4 equal size ones in the cabin solon.  Not the large opening hatch/escape 
hatch.

 

On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 9:34 AM, allen via CnC-List  > wrote:

Which ports are you describing?

 

Allen Miles

S/V Septima 

C 30-2

Hampton, VA

 

From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List   

Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 4:50 PM

To: Cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Lorne Serpa   

Subject: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

 

My new to me 30MKII) 1988) is 2000 miles away,  but wondering if the 4 lewmar 
ports have bug screens in them.  Anyone know?  If not,  where can I get some?  
Thanks. 

  _  

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  _  

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greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

The way ours is set up is that the whole system pulls from one tank or the 
other.  There is a valve in the forward end of the port settee right by the 
pump.  I have a 3M filter on my galley sink that makes me comfortable drinking 
the water, yes.

 

Jim

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lorne Serpa 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 9:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lorne Serpa <lorne.se...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

 

Sweet!  Thanks for the confirmation.  It's larger  capacity was a selection 
criteria.  They are both suitable for drinking if clean right?  I assume just 
like all the  RV campers I've owned I  the past.  I've never owned a live 
aboard. 

How do you use them in that are they connected or one for kitchen and one for 
bath/shower etc? 

On May 1, 2016 8:07 PM, "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Lorne,

 

My 1988 30-2 has 2 tanks as you describe, one starboard under the settee and 
one under the V-berth.  78 gallons total sounds about right.  The holding tank 
is aft, under the floor of the starboard lazerette next to the water heater.  
Not sure if that is a standard or optional configuration, but I am pretty sure 
it came from the factory this way.  Our boat was originally shipped to Traverse 
City and has always been on Lake Michigan.

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim Watts via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 8:59 PM
To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com <mailto:paradigmat...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

 

Boats that weren't shipped to the Great Lakes frequently had the holding tank 
plumbed as an extra water tank. Maybe?




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 1 May 2016 at 16:13, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The ad for my boat says water is 78 gallons.  The spec sheet in the owner's 
manual says "standard tank size" is 42.5 gallons.  Is there a non-standard or 
optional sizes or do you think the ad for the boat is wrong?

The line drawings in the manual also shows two tanks, two vents, two fillers.  
One is on the starboard side and the other under the v berth.  The boat is 
2,000 miles away and I'd look if I could.  Maybe one tank is standard and the 
other optional?  Thanks for any info.

 

 

 

 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Lorne,

 

My 1988 30-2 has 2 tanks as you describe, one starboard under the settee and 
one under the V-berth.  78 gallons total sounds about right.  The holding tank 
is aft, under the floor of the starboard lazerette next to the water heater.  
Not sure if that is a standard or optional configuration, but I am pretty sure 
it came from the factory this way.  Our boat was originally shipped to Traverse 
City and has always been on Lake Michigan.

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 8:59 PM
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

 

Boats that weren't shipped to the Great Lakes frequently had the holding tank 
plumbed as an extra water tank. Maybe?




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 1 May 2016 at 16:13, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  > wrote:

The ad for my boat says water is 78 gallons.  The spec sheet in the owner's 
manual says "standard tank size" is 42.5 gallons.  Is there a non-standard or 
optional sizes or do you think the ad for the boat is wrong?

The line drawings in the manual also shows two tanks, two vents, two fillers.  
One is on the starboard side and the other under the v berth.  The boat is 
2,000 miles away and I'd look if I could.  Maybe one tank is standard and the 
other optional?  Thanks for any info.

 

 

 

 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List GPS

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Elizabeth,

Steve is correct, you don’t need a data plan to use the GPS, but an iPad won’t 
have the GPS hardware without the cellular capability.  However, my experience 
is that the iPad battery drains quickly with the GPS on full time, so Fred’s 
suggestion might be a better option for that reason.  I did a charter last year 
on a boat without a good chartplotter so I used my iPad.  I found that with the 
12v system on that boat, I was losing charge even with the iPad plugged in.  I 
had to shut it down to charge at times just to make sure I had adequate battery 
for the depth challenged areas I was sailing in.  Without the GPS on, it 
charged just fine.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 9:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS

Jim — you can add an external GPS receiver like the Bad Elf via Bluetooth; then 
you’ll have the functionality you need without having to buy a cell-enabled 
iPad.  I’ve got one, and it works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Bad-Elf-2200-Black-silver/dp/B008VWNBBE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8=1459778416=8-2=bad-elf+gps
 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 4, 2016, at 8:44 AM, Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
> I should have qualified the question, we downloaded Navionics, our I pad does 
> not have GPS, therefore, no ship icon!   Will it appear on this app, if we 
> purchase this I pad with GPS, but without a phone plan!
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 4, 2016, at 10:11 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>>
>> iPad with cellular, doesn't need a phone subscription for the GPS to work.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C 32
>> Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Engine Access

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

All,

 

Here are some shots of our access panel in the head.  The bottom has a
flange and the top has a ball that goes into a bracket.  You push in on it
and the door pops out.  Sorry about the blurry picture of the bracket.  Let
me know if you would like more shots or other info.

 

BTW, I didn't mean to sound like I was tooting my own horn in the last
message, the PO put this in.  

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByISBgOu0xYhS1ZkUmFsckJyMUU
<https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByISBgOu0xYhS1ZkUmFsckJyMUU=sha
ring> =sharing

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly
petew via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: kelly petew <kellype...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Access

 

I, too, would be most interested in seeing your photos.  Thanks
 
 
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
30-2
Deltaville, VA
 

 

 

 

 Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2016 15:44:51 +
> From: Kevin Driscoll <kevindrisc...@gmail.com
<mailto:kevindrisc...@gmail.com> >
> To: allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
> Cc: Jim Reinardy <firewa...@reinardy.us <mailto:firewa...@reinardy.us> >,
Peter Patterson
> <brasdorboatwo...@gmail.com <mailto:brasdorboatwo...@gmail.com> >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
> Message-ID:
> <CA+LFBypXrkFp4=m4j2algek2hu1nxbh+lfa6ck1034qpb2o...@mail.gmail.com
<mailto:CA+LFBypXrkFp4=m4j2algek2hu1nxbh+lfa6ck1034qpb2o...@mail.gmail.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Allen, I will grab a photo and dimensions of our hatch on our 30-2 this
> weekend when we are on the boat. Ours isn't a nice looking wood hatch, but
> it's the head and behind the door, and waterproof so it works fine for our
> needs.
> 
> KD
> 
> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 7:26 AM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
> 
> > Allen,
> >
> >
> >
> > I have a nice looking wood access panel in the head on our 30-2, I will
> > grab some pictures for you this weekend.
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Reinardy
> >
> > C 30-2 ?Firewater?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

For those interested in the DIY method, a friend of mine pretty thoroughly 
documented a rudder rebuild he did on his J-30 here:  
http://j30hullabaloo.blogspot.com/  It looked brand new when he got done and 
has held up well.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI




Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 2:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

Guilty as charged.  Maybe Infamously would be more appropriate.

I think we tend to feel that we have to fix these boats to factory standards 
when we get them, but in reality as they get older, they get more customized, 
which is not a bad thing. I don’t think anyone would want to replace  their 
traveler with an original Schaffer Traveler when you could have a nice Harken 
instead –

Back in the early eighties I was re-doing C rudders locally for a number of 
models, as it became widely understood that more control was needed, and they 
were modified to be less wide but deeper. By that, I mean just taking the 
original rudders, and cutting the framework off and welding new foils on, 
narrower and deeper, nothing else on my part. Interestingly, my father was 
sailing on a C 39 at the time, owned by an even older curmudgeon (my dad was 
NOT a curmudgeon)  who was in the market for a new rudder.  I offered to my dad 
that I would do Mearl’s  for free, and he declined, saying that “if anything at 
all was not right, he would never hear the end of it.”   Fast forward 18 years, 
I am now the owner of that very same 39, hauling it out in October to find I 
was missing nearly half that rudder that had been rebuilt at Bruckman’s.  I 
rebuilt it in 14 Gauge SS skin and moved the shaft back 2 ½” for better 
balance. A few years later I removed it and cut the corners off and made it 
elliptical, just because in my mind it seemed a less turbulent shape.  It is 
completely neutral in weight.  On  high to low reaches I can take my hands off 
and it sails itself.  And sorry,  no, I am not interested in making any, just 
mentioning this as another option. In my mind, an epoxy (or Polyester) to SS 
joint is eventually going to leak, they just do not stick to each other very 
well.

Another on/off lister from Toronto/BC had Bob Perry do him a design for a 39 
which looked sweet.  That rudder snapped off at the exit point,  (no reflection 
on Perry) so there is no need in my mentioning who fabricated that one.



Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 2:27 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement



I friend of mine took his rudder home over the winter, cut a skin off, scooped 
all the rotten foam out, refilled it with an epoxy-microballon mix, and glued 
the skin back on. YMMV, no idea if this is the best way, but it was cheap.

Also someone famously made an all-stainless rudder.



Joe

Coquina





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 2:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Pennie
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement



When I was working with Rob on the 51, he freely admitted that rudder design 
back then was more art than science.  That's not to say slap anything on but I 
wouldn't feel obliged to duplicate your existing rudder to perfection if the 
mold isn't available.



On the post and structure inside the rudder you really won't know until the 
skins are removed and you get to see it.  Hopefully all is fine but given your 
comments...  Who knows, maybe you get to have the fun of deciding on a 
stainless vs. Carbon post! Is there a local designer you can speak with or a 
yard that frequently handles such work?



Good luck and sorry to hear of the problem.



John











Sent from my iPad


On Mar 18, 2016, at 1:30 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
wrote:

Rudder is in need of major repair. Got a quote for a replacement for less than 
a repair, but not an exact copy (they don't have a mold). Also 2/3 the cost of 
having a mold made and then a replacement made from that.

I had drilled a dozen  holes to drain water over the winter to avoid freeze 
expansion causing more damage. Found many of the holes drilled had just voids 
behind them, no foam, others had a gritty white material that was saturated 
with water. Saw pictures here and elsewhere of same rudder repair needed.



Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 12:21:42 -0400
From: John Pennie 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
Message-ID: <2c82d7c8-8e02-4d7f-aec5-d405a536d...@svpaws.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I seriously 

Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Allen,

I have a nice looking wood access panel in the head on our 30-2, I will grab 
some pictures for you this weekend.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: allen via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: allen; Peter 
Patterson
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

I'd like to see pics too.  Clearance is tight on 30-2 and hatch access from 
head is something I would like to do too.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima  30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 7:44 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton ; Peter Patterson
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access


Hello David,


I'd like to see the photos and measurements too if you don't mind.  We were 
planning to do this soon.


Our boat was re powered in 2000 with a different model of Yanmar and some 
components (such as the raw water pump impeller) would be much more easily 
accessed with a water proof hatch through the shower stall wall.


Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia


http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/


On 16 March 2016 at 20:58, djmocny via CnC-List  wrote:

  Edd,  ours was done by the PO.  I will take photos and get measurements for 
you.  Will email this weekend or sooner.


  David Mocny
  37/40+
  Obsession


   Original message 
  From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
  Date: 03/16/2016 2:43 PM (GMT-05:00)
  To: C List 
  Cc: Edd Schillay 
  Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

  To the Listers with 37+’s, R’s, or XL’s,


  I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other side 
of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done this? If 
so, could you send photos?



  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log















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Re: Stus-List best folding prop for 30 MK1 w/ A4

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Good advice on Moyer Marine, but I would also talk to the prospective suppliers 
about it.  When I bought mine last year, I found all of the distributors that 
responded to my inquiry to be very helpful about recommending the right size 
for my boat and primary uses.  For Gori, I would recommend contacting Geoff 
Prior at AB Marine in Rhode Island, their US distributor. He spent quite a bit 
of time patiently walking me through my options.  

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI 

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 7, 2016, at 4:24 PM, jtsails via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> I would recommend that you take a look at the forums at www.moyermarine.com. 
> You will find lots of discussion about the best prop for the direct drive A4. 
> Short answer is that 11.5x8 looks like too much pitch to me.
> James
> Delaney
> 1976 C 38 (with A4)
> Oriental, NC
> 
> -Original Message- From: Joe at Zialater via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, March 07, 2016 8:11 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joe at Zialater
> Subject: Stus-List best folding prop for 30 MK1 w/ A4
> 
> I received the blessing from the Admiral to equip Zia with a folding prop
> this season.  I have been looking at our options and the Gori 2 blade geared
> prop 11.5 X 8 looks like it would do the job.
> 
> Before I pull the trigger on this,  I would like to check with the list for
> opinions/experiences on brands, model etc.
> 
> Currently we have a 2 blade fixed.
> 
> Thanks a million.
> 
> Joe
> Zia
> 30 MK1
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I had a Shakespeare unit that worked fine as well, though I opted for AIS last 
year and installed the Simrad transponder.  The matching splitter has an FM 
output in addition to VHF for the AIS and radio.  That works very well, no 
interference issues.  The boat originally came with a telescoping antenna 
mounted behind the electrical panel.  That was not very effective.

Regards,

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 3:34 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

I use the Shakespeare VHF-FM antenna splitter.  It works fine.
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 3:29 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Quick survey:  What are y'all using for FM antenna?  I have Bluetooth,
> Auxiliary inputs, iPad, GoFree (B Chartplotter), marina WiFi, Pandora,
> and nice, new speakers.  Wired for sound, I brag...
>
> But I want to listen to good ol' FM radio sometimes, and have issues with
> the single line antenna output stuffed into the back of my electro-locker.
> Seems in the UP of Michigan, radio is sorta sparse, but pretty good!!  Top
> of mast seems optimal, but unsure of space and interference???  What and
> where are you mounting something and getting best reception??
>
> *Chuck Saur*
> Morning Sky
> C 35-3
> Straits area...
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Micron Extra?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Bill,

We have been hearing around here that the “Extra” ingredient is becoming 
impossible to get and Interlux, Petit and the others are phasing it out of all 
their paints.  We are still able to buy VC17m Extra around here, but the 
manager of the local West Marine told us that once it is gone, that will be it, 
only the non “Extra” formula will be available.  I am betting that Micron is in 
the same situation and that Extra2 is reformulated with a different ingredient 
but may not be ready yet.  There were some issues rumored last year, but this 
seems more final this year.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 6:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Stus-List Micron Extra?

What is going on with Interlux Micron Extra? It is still being sold
everywhere, but has been omitted from all recent advertising and photos
of the Micron line of paint, and is no longer listed in Interlux website
product guides. Meanwhile there is information on the website about a
mysterious "Micron Extra 2" that does not seem to be available for sale
anywhere. Interlux also does not seem to have an MSDS for Extra 2,
although they still have one for Extra.

Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

My biggest issue with the luggage tag knot is the difficulty of getting them 
off.  I ran across this technique which intrigues me.

 

http://sailing.about.com/od/equipmentgear/ss/softshacklehowto.htm#step1

 

Also thinking about the soft shackles as well.  Either way, I really hate 
running forward to clear a bowline off the shrouds during a tack, something 
will get done this spring.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 8:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Russo 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

 

Thanks for the responses on soft shackles, Sail Magazine has a short article on 
the various soft shackles on the market and their benefits and increasing 
popularity due to the new high strength available line. Thanks for some 
confirmation on their use for attaching the heads sails. This will be the next 
upgrade for Arpeggio.

 

John

Arpeggio C 32

Norwalk CT  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

 

I have the APSltd brand on Touché'.  Excellent upgrade. Headsail virtually zips 
through the fore triangle now. Before, the bowlines hung up on the forward 
lower shrouds.

 

I bought new VPC sheets with eyes on each end along with the soft shackles. Be

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 17, 2016, at 10:05 AM, John Russo via CnC-List  > wrote:

Is anyone using a soft shackle to attach the Jib clew to the sheet?  If so what 
brand and any problems in operation like catching on shrouds.

 

John

Arpeggio

1984 C 32

NorwalkCT

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Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Chuck,

I had a 2 blade Gori on my Catalina, the gears were a lot more exposed on that 
model.  This one, they are out in the open but not nearly so prominent.  
Maintenance is no more than any other folding prop as far as I can tell.  
Primarily zinc replacement and a good cleaning once in a while at least in 
fresh water.

Prop walk can be an advantage, though it never seemed to be the right direction 
for us for the slips we have been in.  The Gori definitely has far less of it 
compared to the Martec it replaced.

Jim

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Chuck S via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 4:57 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Chuck S<mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

Jim,
I liked the engineering on the Gori, but didn't like all the exposed gears.  
Maybe your model is different than what I looked at?  What's the annual 
maintenance like?

IIRC, I was told prop walk is caused by the angle of the shaft, and you should 
have it with any prop if your shaft is angled down like most keelboats.  A 
saildrive has the least propwalk, because the shaft is level.  Propwalk is not 
a bad thing.  It helps turn the boat and can be a big help when docking.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

- Original Message -----

From: "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Jim Reinardy" <firewa...@reinardy.us>
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 2:49:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3



I went through this same process last year.  I was very interested in the 
MaxProp until I talked to a friend of mine who raved about his Gori 3-blade.  I 
looked into it and wound up buying a Gori 3-blade for our 30-2 as well.  It’s a 
unique design where the blades reverse, providing full performance in reverse 
as well as a 2 nd more aggressive pitch for cruising.  It eliminated our prop 
walk and has performed very well for us.  Lower drag when folded compared to 
the MaxProp.  No connection to any of the companies, but thought I would add 
another name to the search list.



Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 4:59 PM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3



I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of 
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would 
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to set 
and IIRC many of the components are plastic.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop


On Feb 5, 2016 6:59 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote:




Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a Max-Prop 
is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those retail for a 
non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.  Plus ongoing 
maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?





On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:




I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two blade 
16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade Maxprop. 
Less vibration.





Doug Allardyce

C 35-III

"BULLET"

Detroit

_/)~~~_/)



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3


Sam,



My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the blades 
flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but the prop 
does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years old and has 
never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year motoring though.



Jake



Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA







From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Sam 
Wheeler via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 16:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Wheeler < samwheeler.s...@gmail.com >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3




Thanks, everyone!





Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low revs.  
Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve that issue?





Sam









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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I went through this same process last year.  I was very interested in the 
MaxProp until I talked to a friend of mine who raved about his Gori 3-blade.  I 
looked into it and wound up buying a Gori 3-blade for our 30-2 as well.  It’s a 
unique design where the blades reverse, providing full performance in reverse 
as well as a 2nd more aggressive pitch for cruising.  It eliminated our prop 
walk and has performed very well for us.  Lower drag when folded compared to 
the MaxProp.  No connection to any of the companies, but thought I would add 
another name to the search list.

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 4:59 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

 

I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of 
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would 
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to set 
and IIRC many of the components are plastic.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop

On Feb 5, 2016 6:59 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List"  > wrote:

Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a Max-Prop 
is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those retail for a 
non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.  Plus ongoing 
maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?

 

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two blade 
16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade Maxprop. 
Less vibration.

 

Doug Allardyce

C 35-III

"BULLET"

Detroit

_/)~~~_/) 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ]On Behalf Of Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

Sam,

 

My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the blades 
flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but the prop 
does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years old and has 
never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year motoring though.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 16:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Sam Wheeler  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

 

Thanks, everyone!  

 

Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low revs.  
Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve that issue?

 

Sam

 


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Re: Stus-List chicago boat show

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Pete,

My 9 year old daughter and I are coming down on a charter bus with our
sailing club from Milwaukee.   I think we are the only C in our group
though.  I should be there from 10-5 or so.  I will send my cell # off list
if you feel like meeting up.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist 
Subject: Stus-List chicago boat show

FYI - If anyone from the list will be at the Chicago boat show Saturday, a
small contingent of C from Bayfield, WI will be there. Let me know if
you're interested in putting a face to a name.
 
Pete



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Re: Stus-List chicago boat show

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Fred,

 

Is it supposed to be improved from last year’s combined show, or are you 
referring to the good old days at Navy Pier?

 

The RV’s were a novelty last year, but I miss the Navy Pier location and the 
smaller sail only show.  

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 3:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List chicago boat show

 

Pete — I’ve already put your face with your name…   :^)   but I’ll be curious 
for your take on the new, “improved” RV/Sail show…   

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Jan 14, 2016, at 2:49 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

FYI - If anyone from the list will be at the Chicago boat show Saturday, a
small contingent of C from Bayfield, WI will be there. Let me know if
you're interested in putting a face to a name.

Pete

 

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Re: Stus-List VHF / AIS

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I had a wired remote mic on my old Catalina 27 with a tiller.  That never 
worked very well for me because the cord kept getting in the way.  When I 
bought Firewater, I installed the Simrad RS25, which is the predecessor to the 
35.  It has the wireless remote, but not AIS.  At that time, the boat had no 
wiring going to the pedestal and I was not wild about drilling the hole in the 
cockpit floor for the first wires.  I have since put a Triton display at the 
helm, so I would be more comfortable with the wired mic if I were buying it 
today.  

 

We have liked the convenience of the wireless, though you do have to monitor 
battery usage.  We do mostly racing and short cruises so it has not been a big 
deal for us.  The sound quality on the 25 remote mic has been great, no 
complaints.  With regard to keeping it on board, I bought one of these: 

http://mobility.snapitproducts.com/snapit-marine/products/v007/v007-handheld-electronics-device-holder

to mount at the helm.  The mic is either in someone’s hand or in the holder and 
we have not had any issues.

 

Regards,

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2016 8:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VHF / AIS

 

I hear what you are saying, Fred. And I have to agree.

 

Imzadi has a fixed mount VHF at the helm and also a separate fixed mount at the 
nav station. Each is connected to a GPS (the one at the helm is the Garmin 
chartplotter), and each has a dedicated antenna.

 

While I like the redundancy, the real reasons I have 2 fixed mount VHFs are: 

1) a handheld only has a range of a couple of miles on a good day, and 

2) around 50 years of boating experience has led me to the conviction that a 
handheld radio is a holder for dead batteries.

 

For not much more than the cost of the $139 RAM mike you could install a fairly 
good SH VHF radio and a dedicated antenna. And neither would ever fall 
overboard.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2016 12:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Frederick G Street  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List VHF / AIS

 

First, has anyone ever lost overboard something that wasn’t firmly attached to 
the boat?  And secondly, has anyone gone to use a piece of rechargeable 
battery-powered electronics, only to find that the battery was dead?  Neither 
of these scenarios apply to a hard-wired remote mic like the S-H or the Icom.

 

 

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Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

This is a bit of a tangent, but I wanted to get some feedback on a recent event 
in our marina that has a lot of us talking.

We have some friends that own a cruising boat.  The wife has been a little 
hesitant about sailing in part because of poor swimming ability causing a 
general fear of water.  She decided to confront her fears head on by 
volunteering to do a live person overboard drill.  We got a bunch of people on 
board their boat and enlisted a smaller boat as a chase boat.  She put on an 
inflatable life jacket with an expiring sensor and jumped in the water in the 
harbor.  It was at the end of a stretch of hot weather so there were fewer 
fears about hypothermia and the waves were negligible, which is as good as it 
gets for Lake Michigan.  

The PFD inflated immediately and brought her to the surface just fine, but she 
found that the inflated bladder pretty much immobilized her.  She could not 
lift her head properly or move her arms to maneuver to the throwables in the 
water.  One of the people in the chase boat ultimately jumped in to get her 
over to her boat and we got her back up on deck, but it was a more tense 
process than any of us expected.  Our friend confronting her fears was actually 
satisfied with the result, she was able to remain calm and ultimately got back 
on the boat without injury, but it raised some doubts about inflatable PFD’s 
with the rest of us.

Anyone have experience with actually deploying an inflatable PFD?  Were you 
able to maneuver?  Did you need to partially deflate the bladder?

As a side note, we have gone looking for a good quality non-inflatable PFD with 
a harness and crotch strap, which is becoming a requirement for some races now 
and pretty much came up empty at this point.

Thanks,

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI 


Sent from Mail for Windows 10



From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 5:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll
Subject: Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation


My Kong tether has snap shackle for self eject.

On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 11:53 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
don't forget to sign up for the PYacht email list before you place your order 
and they'll give a 5% off code on a purchase over $100
 
five bucks is five bucks!


-- Original Message --
From: Indigo via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Indigo 
Subject: Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 08:28:37 -0400
I don't recall - one of the early posts on the subject. At the price of these 
at pyacht I might be tempted to replace my "spare" old style tethers. 
--
Jonathan 
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Sep 16, 2015, at 08:03, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Mine does.  Which one are you looking at?  I’ve got the “Y” tether with one 
six-foot leg and one three-foot leg; both of those have the positive-action 
carabiners.  The harness end has a snap shackle with a pull-lanyard.  Like 
this: http://www.pyacht.com/cgi-bin/pagegen.pl?pr+kng283sete.htm 
 
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 15, 2015, at 10:29 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:
I am surprised to see that the Kong tether as illustrated does not have a 
snap-shackle for use at the harness end to enable quick disconnect if needed.  
With any tension, you'd need to cut the tether in order to get free if you 
were, say, trapped under water. 
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Re: Stus-List Reboarding - was Re: - Inflable life jacket - inflation

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Mark,

I like the idea, it sounds like a nice refinement of my friend's method.  I do 
think it might be difficult to actually get in the sail while in the water 
though, would it be better to lay across it?

Jim

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:53 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I've read a lot about people being unable to climb back aboard a boat (never 
> experienced the issue on anything bigger than an Albacore).
> One recommendation I'm looking to try - a triangular section of fabric (I'm 
> thinking the head off an old jib) - shackle the bottom corners to the toe 
> rail and attach the head to a halyard
> Get the overboard crew to lay in the hollow of the sail as it bags down and 
> then winch the halyard.
> You automatically get a 2-1 advantage by pulling up only one end in addition 
> to using gear that is already set on the boat.  Plus the person is already 
> lying down in the sail and will roll right back in under the lifelines rather 
> than having to winch them up overtop.
> 
> I think my current jib is ready to retire - and maybe this is a perfect use 
> for the head of the sail.
> 
> Interested to hear thoughts from people who have actually tried different 
> techniques.  I've yet to do MOB drills - it's in the plan, but never seems to 
> fit the day.
> 
> Mark
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>> On 2015-09-17 5:31 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
>> I did a safety at sea course, which involved spending some quality time in 
>> the pool wearing full gear and my PFD (inflated).  I found it difficult to 
>> maneuver with it fully inflated, but could let some out and was able to do 
>> the required stuff (swim, climb into the liferaft) with it on.  For me a 
>> crotch strap add-on does make it easier as it keeps things lower, I tried it 
>> both ways.
>> 
>> As for re-boarding, a ladder isn't much good if it does not get a couple of 
>> rungs under water - not many of us can lift our body weight and wet gear up 
>> with our arms, when already exhausted.  We also bought a lifesling and have 
>> tackle ready in case someone has to be hoisted aboard.
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C 35-III #11
>>> On 2015-09-17 2:53 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List wrote:
>>> This is a bit of a tangent, but I wanted to get some feedback on a recent 
>>> event in our marina that has a lot of us talking.
>>>  
>>> We have some friends that own a cruising boat.  The wife has been a little 
>>> hesitant about sailing in part because of poor swimming ability causing a 
>>> general fear of water.  She decided to confront her fears head on by 
>>> volunteering to do a live person overboard drill.  We got a bunch of people 
>>> on board their boat and enlisted a smaller boat as a chase 
>>> boat.  She put on an inflatable life jacket with an expiring sensor and 
>>> jumped in the water in the harbor.  It was at the end of a stretch of hot 
>>> weather so there were fewer fears about hypothermia and the waves were 
>>> negligible, which is as good as it gets for Lake Michigan. 
>>>  
>>> The PFD inflated immediately and brought her to the surface just fine, but 
>>> she found that the inflated bladder pretty much immobilized her.  She could 
>>> not lift her head properly or move her arms to maneuver to the throwables 
>>> in the water.  One of the people in the chase boat ultimately jumped in to 
>>> get her over to her boat and we got her back up on deck, but it was a more 
>>> tense process than any of us expected.  Our friend confronting her fears 
>>> was actually satisfied with the result, she was able to remain calm and 
>>> ultimately got back on the boat without injury, but it raised some doubts 
>>> about inflatable PFD’s with the rest of us.
>>>  
>>> Anyone have experience with actually deploying an inflatable PFD?  Were you 
>>> able to maneuver?  Did you need to partially deflate the bladder?
>>>  
>>> As a side note, we have gone looking for a good quality non-inflatable PFD 
>>> with a harness and crotch strap, which is becoming a requirement for some 
>>> races now and pretty much came up empty at this point.
>>>  
>>> Thanks,
>>>  
>>> Jim Reinardy
>>> C 30-2 “Firewater”
>>> Milwaukee, WI
>>>  
>>>  
>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>>  
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wedne

Re: Stus-List boat names

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

My favorite boat name story comes from a situation I would not recommend for 
anyone.  A fried of ours bought a boat and arranged for a mooring.  When he got 
to the mooring ball, he noticed that the line on the ball was pretty worn, but 
didn't think much of it.  Of course, with the next big wind, the boat broke 
loose with nobody aboard.  She was at one end of a large mooring field and the 
wind pushed the boat away from the field, but toward the seawall at the end of 
the marina.  The owner got a call from the marina, rushed down and found the 
boat aground on a sand bar between two rock outcroppings undamaged.  The boat 
was immediately named "Field Goal". 

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI 


Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 17, 2015, at 9:08 PM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> A follow up on TBD, "Tango Delta Bravo""
> Mike Cotton
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, September 17, 2015 11:00 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> A fellow here couldn't think of a name, so he called it TDB (to be 
> determined).
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
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