Steve-
which radio and transverter are you using?
In some transverters, the Local Oscillator drifts with temperature -
sometimes a lot. This is typically more pronounced on the higher bands,
but can be troublesome even on 2m. I used to have the Elecraft external
transverters (XV144, XV222,
en Days," you could almost always find the problem
> by looking in the corner of the chassis where the small fire had started.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> Dave Fugleberg wrote on 11/8/2023 11:13 AM:
>
> I tho
hard would sometimes make it work. The K-POD
> proved to be a work around, but the new connector pins on a trip to the
> factory for another problem solved it.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> Dave Fugleberg wrote on
ew connector pins on a trip to the
> factory for another problem solved it.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> Dave Fugleberg wrote on 11/8/2023 9:16 AM:
>
> Thanks Keith - I totally missed that in the manual, as it's b
Thanks Keith - I totally missed that in the manual, as it's been a long
time since I've used the decode feature. I tried changing the threshold to
Auto...now I get the same behavior as before, except when it flashes it
says thr Auto. So it's definitely showing me that menu setting, but I have
no
I've noticed some strange behavior with my K3 lately. Sometimes the
display will flash twice very quickly and beep twice. I had to take a video
with my phone to see what it says because it happens quickly. The upper
part of the LCD says "thr4", and the lower part says "OFF" when this
That's what I do, although I don't typically get to step 6 unless I get
lucky OR find where the DX is *actually *listening :)The REV button
comes in handy for that, as does the P3 display.
I obviously didn't buy the second RX - next transceiver I buy will
definitely have that capability...
73
Eric,
Most any analog (not USB) computer gaming headset will actually work well
on the K3. You specifically mentioned that you want to plug into the front
panel- if so, you will need an adapter for the microphone jack. You can
easily build one, but the ones from Heil will work with any headset
A friend from work many years ago introduced me to his wife at a social
gathering. When he mentioned that I was also a ham, her tone and demeanor
suddenly changed, as she glared at me and asked “are you the one who gave
him those teletype machines in the garage?”
I was very glad that I was
I have no experience with the internal transverter, but the K3 supports
external transverters very well too. If you can find an Elecraft XV-144 and
connect the Aux cable, it’s completely seamless- you just keep hitting the
band up button til you’re on 2m, and the K3 display shows your actual
Jim's comments ring true for me tooHeadphones are a very personal
choice, and simply MUST be tried to see if they work for YOU. I own a
couple of Heil Pro-sets, and a Heil 'Traveler', plus various others. One of
my favorites has been a relatively inexpensive 'gaming' headset from
Kingston,
Back when I was a bench tech doing component level repair, I used a vacuum
desoldering station from Pace (I forget the model). That thing worked
great- I pulled hundreds (maybe thousands) of through-hole parts from
boards with it.
They were (and are) expensive, but so are time and PC boards, so
This discussion reminded me of a question that I’ve often wondered about
but have never asked.
I have read that when laying out radials on or under the ground, one should
be careful to ensure that they radiate out from a central point without
ever crossing one another.
I have also read about this
Wayne, perhaps you could just offer a transverter for Subspace Radio as a
future option…
73 de W0ZF
On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 10:23 PM Wayne Burdick wrote:
> We considered offering a faster-than-light option for the virtual-K4
> software: the EleWarp(tm). But it turned out that, thanks to supply
Jim,
When you said “turns must go through the core in sequence”, does that mean
that each turn must rest next to the last one, rather than overlapping one
or more previous turns? I suspect that’s what “in sequence “ means- just
want to make sure.
On Mon, Dec 20, 2021 at 10:40 PM Jim Brown
If using CAT for PTT, make sure the PTT cable from the Signallink is NOT
connected to the radio. Having two separate PTT types active at the same
time will cause behavior like you described.
On Fri, Dec 3, 2021 at 1:21 PM David Haines wrote:
> Using CAT on the PC.
>
> TEST CAT on PC turns
I have the WH1000-MX3. I use them daily but for non-radio stuff. Easily the
best headphones I’ve ever had or used, for comfort and noise cancellation.
They sound great too.
I have used them with my KX2 when traveling, but I don’t think I’ve ever
used them at higher power so can’t comment on RFI or
Brian,
Everything Jim said, plus a couple additional recommendations:
1- I would start by using WSJT-x by itself for a little while, configured
to talk directly to the K3, without DXLab Commander or Win4K3 running. This
will allow you to get familiar with WSJT-x, its configuration, making
The Portable Operators Challenge is a good excuse to break out that KX2 or
KX3 and get outside, but fixed stations are welcome as well. Exchange is
your grid square.
Since the rules allow self spotting, my KX2 and I are portable in
Minnesota, calling CQ around 14.210 until 1959z or my battery
Bruce,
Several of the programs mentioned will handle sending CW via a macro. You
said "Both read and write". Does that mean you need the software to decode
the received CW as well as send it?
Win4K3 includes a 'terminal' function that can use the built-in CW
encode/decode capability of the K3.
I use a variety of things depending on what I want to do. I often run
Win4k3 connected to the radio, and then other software like N1MM, DxLab,
etc. connected to the 'virtual radios' of Win4K3 via virtual serial port
pairs. I have found this a reliable way to allow multiple programs to each
'think'
As Rick said, there’s no single program that is “best “ for everything and
everyone. But there are some excellent choices out there, and many are free
or very low cost, so experimentation is probably the best teacher. Like you
said, some have tons of features that you may not have even dreamed of.
I use three Elecraft and one DEMI transverters with my K3. All split IF at
28 MHz, single antenna path for each, PTT low.
I’d go with the high stability LO, especially at 432 or higher. The lower
level drive works fine with the K3 and I believe the K3S transverter
interface is identical in that
Depending on your needs, the BCD-14 from Unified Microsystems is worth a
look. I use the older model BCD-10 for some external transverter switching
with my K3.
It’s just the populated PCB; you have to provide your own wiring and
connectors. The price is right though.
73 de W0ZF
On Fri, May 14,
Thanks for the memories Wayne! My High School drafting class was just a
couple of years after yours, and I remember it fondly. Everything from
drafting pencils (with lead of various sizes/hardness) to technical ink
pens on vellum. I enjoyed it so much that I persuaded the instructor to
let me
Jim, that’s an interesting bit of information. Is that the case even for
people who have excellent hearing at higher frequencies? In other words,
would people with excellent hearing at higher frequencies also benefit from
using a lower frequency side tone?
On Sat, Mar 13, 2021 at 5:45 PM Jim
Hopefully they'll sort it out and come up with a way for latecomers (like
me!) to register to get the replays. I had not planned to attend this
weekend for various reasons so did not do the 'early bird' registration.
This morning I checked the speaker list and saw a few sessions that sounded
I have 3 of them stacked on a shelf above my K3. From the K3 to the first
transverter the cables are around 50cm or so... I think I used RG-8x. The
IF cables daisy chained from one XV to the next are about 15cm in length
and are RG-174. I originally used RG-8X there too, but they had to be much
The advice to use a separate sound card just for the radio is wise, and
makes the use of the computer much more convenient for multiple tasks. For
radios like the K3S, this additional 'sound card' is built into the radio,
so there's no reason not to use it. For those of us (like me) with a K3
I too prefer a self contained scope with knobs and buttons. Keep in mind
that most, if not all of these modern scopes can also be directly
controlled from a PC via USB or Ethernet. So you can have it all!
On Wed, Dec 9, 2020 at 9:38 AM John Oppenheimer wrote:
> Hi Lou,
>
> Rigol DS2202A has
I bought a Siglent SDS 1202X-E at Dayton a couple years ago. I really like
it. 200MHz dual trace, can control it and grab screenshots over the
network, does all kinds of measurements automatically, even does decodes
for a variety of serial data types. And it takes up far less room on the
bench
Does this become apparent only above a certain speed? I'm guessing it's not
as big an issue below 30wpm or so, but would be good to know.
On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 10:23 PM wrote:
> I have never heard of this issue until your post. In DX contests, dits
> sometimes disappear so we certainly to done
Watching this thread with some interest, as I use my K3 to drive
transverters when roving in VHF contests, and it's hard to see the front
panel controls at night. I tried making a light with a bit of aluminum
angle stock and a short strip of white LEDs (the kind that come on a long
roll), but even
A few weeks ago, I was playing with my KX2 and tuning around on 20m when I
ran across a RTTY signal. It was a special event station. I worked them
with the paddle on the KX2.
I wouldn’t want to work RTTY all day that way, but it does get the job done
without a PC, and RTTY outside of contests does
I built three of them (144, 222, 432) and have used them with my K3 in my
contest rover for several years. They are solid performers, and they work
seamlessly with the K3.
Since they can be used with many kinds of radios in many configurations,
there are a number of jumpers and connections you
I've used four methods:
- melt with a soldering iron
- burn off with a small butane torch
- scrape off with some very fine grit sandpaper
- scrape off with a single edge razor blade
All work, but I typically use the sandpaper or the razor blade.
With sandpaper, I just double over the sandpaper
Check out Win4K3. It does that and much more. Well worth the asking price
in my opinion.
You can download it as a trial. If you like it, you just buy a license and
apply it - no need to reinstall it.
No connection with the author- just a happy customer.
On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 2:35 PM Tom Norris
Yep, that was the textbook for the Communications class I had in
electronics school in 1983. One of the requirements to pass the class was
to pass the General Radiotelephone exam. The FCC Examiner came over from
the St Paul field office to the technical school to administer the exam to
the class.
The original question was not about a PC at all - it was about an Android
app called KX3 Companion running on an Android tablet.
The application website states in one place that the USB cable that comes
with the KX3, plus an OTG cable, are all that is needed. However, later in
states that a new
Steve -
I have the XV144, XV222, and XV432 in my shack on a K3. Basically, a
transverter allows you to use your radio on a band that's not already built
in to the radio. For example, the XV144 lets you use your HF radio on the
144MHz (2 meter) band.
The transverter converts the received 2m signal
WSJT-X does, in fact, provide a way to do band changes without touching the
radio.
There's a pull down menu on the main window just to the left of the
frequency. Click the little down arrow on that box, select the band, and
the radio will follow. The Frequencies tab under Files..Settings menu
e
> dit's and dah's. So the solution is a WinKey for CW. You can buy one for
> under $40 these days and well worth it.
> 73 Tom
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> On
> Behalf Of Dave Fugleberg
> Sent: June 12, 2019 9:08 AM
> To: M. G
I would echo what Max said. I use Win4K3 whenever the K3 is on in the
shack, but seldom use its graphical interface. The virtual radio concept
works extremely well.
As he said, software that expects to connect directly to the K3 has no idea
that Win4K3 is there. I did find one caveat to this while
I usually like to build stuff when I can, but I have to agree with the
others who suggested a commercial mixer. They are cheap and work well.
I recently bought a small behringer USB mixer for under 50 bucks for a
project at work. It acts as a USB sound card, so you can mix audio to or
from the PC
The P3 is simpler- plug and play, no fooling around with configuring HDSDR
or whatever software you prefer. You can set up the hardware buttons for
whatever you want, so it’s very convenient to make quick changes to span,
etc.
SDRPlay is cheaper and can integrate with other software to show spots
Bill,
When you say it 'locks itself up top', I assume you mean that you can see
part of the window, but is so high up that the title bar is not on screen.
Is that correct?
If so, then:
1) click somewhere in that window to make it the active window
2) on the keyboard, hold down the Alt key and tap
Bob, I know this isn't exactly what you describe, but it's a hack I thought
I'd mention.
I like the P3 for Search & Pounce in RTTY contests, but it's very tiresome
to use the QSY knob on the P3.
Rather than using the P3 marker/QSY function, I found I could get similar
results by using VFO B,
Aha, NOW the proposed add on module makes sense to me... assuming one
already has a P3 (as I do), adding this will make the P3 appear as a USB
device to SDR software on a PC (much like a SDRPlay or RTL SDR dongle.
Correct?
What will be the advantages of this versus connecting a SDRPlay, etc to
As I understand it, the KX3, and the P3, both contain a software defined
receiver, so the I/Q signals are already present.
That is not the case for the receiver in the K3 or K3S, so adding it there
would involve adding a SDR.
On Fri, Jul 27, 2018 at 2:21 PM Dick Dickinson
wrote:
> Ever the
The P3 has an IF Out jack. I have connected that to a SDRPlay RSP1 with
good results. No splitter or tee required. You must flip the little switch
on the back of the P3 to enable IF Out.
On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 9:14 PM Leroy Buller wrote:
> Part number?
>
> Lee
>
> On Thu, Jul 26, 2018, 8:45 PM
As a ‘field engineer ‘ for a global company in the 80s, I’d occasionally
find one of those RS232 breakout boxes tucked behind some production
system, jumpered to make the connection work, blinking away, because some
technician finally hit upon the magic combination and then left it in place
rather
Schraeder was the text for my Communications class in tech school in the
early 80s.
One requirement to pass the course was to earn the FCC General Class
Radiotelephone license. I believe nearly everyone in the class did. It also
made it pretty easy to upgrade my ham ticket from Novice to Advanced
Clay, the individual signal with many of these digital modes modes is
actually quite narrow, on the order of tens of hertz. It's just that by
convention, everybody uses one SSB frequency for a given mode (such as FT-8
on 14.074). That means there may be dozens of QSOs going on in the
equivalent
Very nice looking setup!
I use a similar rack from home depot which holds the K3, P3, four
transverters and amps for VHF / UHF, and associated SWR meters, etc. About
360 days of the year it sits on the desk in the shack connected to the
shack computer and antennas. When it's time for a VHF+
I’ve always had a single receiver, modest antennas, and 100 watts, and have
worked many of the DXpeditions over the years. However, it seems like it’s
getting more difficult lately to figure out the pileups just by listening.
I don’t know if it’s the ‘constant callers’ that keep calling while the
For what it's worth... I did roughly the same comparison a year ago, and
then sold my 817 to partially fund the KX2 the following week. I don't
regret it. The KX2 is hands down superior in every way for the bands that
the two rigs have in common.
I too would like to have a VHF/ UHF all mode
DTR keying works well with the K3, but as Tom pointed out, it does not play
well with virtual COM ports. Since I started using Win4K3, I’ve had to use
alternate means.
I’m planning to go with a Winkeyer type device for all the reasons
mentioned by the others.
I recently found the Nanokeyer
I found that a binder clip (normally used to clip a stack of papers
together) works well for that purpose. I have a right angle BNC connector
and the MFJ whip. The clip grips the right angle connector and sits
vertically on the table.
73 de W0ZF
On Mon, Nov 27, 2017 at 11:56 AM Wayne Burdick
benefit from having a T1
> mounted away from the operating position.
>
> 73, Barry N1EU
>
> On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 9:00 AM, Dave Fugleberg <dave.w...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Barry, I went through that thought exercise before I ordered my KX2,
> since
> >
Barry, I went through that thought exercise before I ordered my KX2, since
I already own a T1. In the end I ordered the internal tuner with the KX2. I
have not regretted it for a minute. No extra cables, batteries, or fuss.
And it works very well.
Since you're concerned about remoting the tuner,
My friend had a jeep wrangler (2012 model IIRC ) that we used for VHF
roving with no issues. When we tried the same vehicle on HF, some bands
were ok and some caused havoc with the vehicle electronics. Transmit on 15m
at 100 watts triggered the wipers... 40m lit up every indicator on the
dash.
We
If your intent is to operate portable (buddipole in a parking lot) as
opposed to mobile, then none of the issues you described about bonding,
ferrites, vehicle electrical systems, etc come into play anyhow. Just use
the 12v from the vehicle battery (fused of course).
You can operate quite awhile
You raise some great points, Ian. The choice of which type of panadapter to
use, as well as how to configure and integrate it, depends greatly on what
your purpose is for using one in the first place. We certainly have an
abundance of riches in the choices available today!
You've inspired me to
If what you want is a good panadapter for the K3, the P3 is hard to beat,
in my opinion.
I started my panadapter journey on the K3 the cheapest way possible - a
softrock receiver on the IF, fed to the internal sound card on my PC. I was
never able to tame the large 'spike' at the IF frequency. I
Have you looked at Win4K3?
I realize it's not the hardware solution you wanted, but it does bring out
all the controls to a PC screen so you can point and click at pretty much
any of them rather than going through the menus on the radio...
I suppose one could build exactly what you proposed using
Jim, I think that last point is often overloaded and bears repeating. With
rigs like the KX2 or KX3, it's a common practice to connect the radiating
element directly to the rig and put the other end as high as possible. In
that case, 'SWR' is kinda meaningless, as the built in 'ATU' is actually
Not 'hand held', but I did use the MFJ telescoping whip for 20m with a
right angle BNC adapter with the KX2 next to me on a park bench a couple
weeks ago and worked AZ from MN. With the internal battery, that whip, and
some wire for a counterpoise, it takes almost no time to set up.
On Thu, Jul
I see that the W2 can support up to 2 remote sensors, selectable from the
front panel.
Is it possible to support more (say 4 total) with some kind of external
switching arrangement?
I have a K3 with three XV series transverters (144, 222, 432). Each
transverter feeds a power amp and connects to an
Welcome to ham radio, Eben!
As others have said, it's pretty normal to hear your transmitter on a
receiver that's right next to it, even with the power turned way down.
About your difficult making contacts on 80m... Your antenna system (type of
antenna, height, feedline ), mode, and time of day
I asked this exact question on this reflector in March, and got some good
and useful replies. You can Google for that discussion on Nabble to see
those technical answers.
Bottom line is that both are fine tuners. I know I could have saved some
money by using the T1 I already own, but in the end I
A very quiet mob here in MN... :(
On the other hand, 6m is pretty decent and I've worked 68 stations and 35
grids in the past couple hours with my K3 barefoot...
73 de W0ZF
On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 3:17 PM Dave Sublette wrote:
> Hearing one weak sig under the noise (and there is NO
to the plug. I seldom use the adapter, as I prefer to use the rear
jacks on the K3 and keep the front panel clear of wires.
73 de W0ZF
On Sun, Jun 18, 2017 at 9:06 PM Jim Rhodes <jimk...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hmm, mine has a 1/4 inch stereo plug for phones.
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 18, 201
The Heil pro sets have a 1/8 inch stereo plug for the phones and a1/8
inch mono plug for the mic. Those will plug right into the back of the K3
without an adapter. If you prefer using the front panel mic connector,
you'll need the Heil AD-1-K adapter.
In either case, don't forget to set the menu
I second that. Having tried a couple other panadapter solutions I found the
P3 to be the most reliable with the least amount of hassle. The one
shortcoming in my mind is using the tiny knob to QSY... Full mouse support
would be welcome.
I've found that the small screen works better than
a full frequency display… ie 2304.1000 rather than 304.1000 on the K3.
>
> It all works great, I can jump from 50 through 2304 just by switching
> bands on the K3.
>
> 73 Dana VE3DS
>
>
> On May 8, 2017, at 14:49, Dave Fugleberg <dave.w...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Dana
Dana, I would be interested in learning more about your transverter
switching arrangement. Right now I have the K3 plus the Elecraft
transverters for 144, 222, and 432, using split IF and the Elecraft Aux
bus. Each transverter drives a power amp. That works fantastic for
contesting, but I want to
:24 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV <li...@subich.com> wrote:
>
> On 4/8/2017 2:19 PM, Dave Fugleberg wrote:
>
>> 2) If you use the REAR panel phones jack, the monitor audio comes
>> through the phones as expected. If SPKR+PHONES is set to yes, the RX
>> audio comes throu
I think some of the misunderstandings on this thread are because the front
and rear panel Phones jacks behave differently. Here's the deal:
1) the original poster is using the front panel PHONES jack, and has
SPKR+Phones set to NO. This makes the radio behave like most rigs we're
used to - i.e.,
Do you have anything connected to the 15 pin accessory jack on the K3?
I had the same symptom once last year, and tracked it down to a wiring
fault in a homebrew accessory cable.
If you do have something connected to that jack, try unplugging it
temporarily to see if the power down issue goes
John,
Ok, Windows was a bad assumption on my part.
You established that the unwanted transmit was due to VOX. That could be
due to one of two issues:
A) the radio mic was picking up the sound coming from the computer
speakers, OR
B) the Mac is configured to send normal computer sounds to the K3s
Do you hear the video through your computer speakers as well? If so, maybe
the K3S has VOX enabled and I'd just picking up the sound via the K3s
microphone.
If you DON'T hear the video from the computer, then it's likely that your
default sound device in Windows has been changed to be the audio
I can vouch for the Packtenna one...I bought the last one they had brought
to Dayton last year. Fits easily into a suitcase and extends to 10m.
On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 5:48 PM Bill Rowlett wrote:
> The MFJ 2286 Big Stick Vert. may be what you are looking for. Nocks down
> to
How does the optional internal ATU for the KX2 compare to the Elecraft T1
ATU in terms of tuning range? In other words, if a given length of wire
works well with the T1, can one expect it to work with the KX2 internal
tuner?
I have a T1, but not a KX2 (at least not yet).
Is it a similar
I'm not a huge RTTY guy, but I do operate it on occasion. The big
performance difference with using a PC is that there are several decoders
available, each with different strengths. These decoders typically have a
lot of options that can be tweaked to optimize them for conditions. It's
also
I've been playing with Win4K3 Suite lately... Among (many) other things, it
allows up to four different programs to think they are all connected
directly to the same K3 st the same time. I've been testing it with DXLab
Commander and N1MM+.
Both programs lead and follow the radio - in other words,
88.
>
> What version of firmware is your K3 running?
>
> 73,
> Bob, N6TV
>
>
> On Feb 25, 2017 7:50 PM, "Dave Fugleberg" <dave.w...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have Line Out of the K3 connected to Line In on one of my soundcards. The
> only way I've been abl
I have Line Out of the K3 connected to Line In on one of my soundcards. The
only way I've been able to record both sides of the QSO is to set the K3
Line Out to PHONES and turn up the MONitor to make it relatively equal in
volume to the received audio. This works, but it's annoying to have the
Don, that's a great explanation. I came to the same conclusion in a recent
RTTY contest. I built my K3 with the single stock filter based on advice
from a number of folks to 'just operate for awhile til you get the feel for
what other filters you need'. I think that's sound advice.
Anyhow, I've
Hamlog.
On Thu, Feb 16, 2017 at 12:37 PM Harry Yingst via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> A quick google search for - android tablet ham radio logbook
>
> brought up PicoLog that looks like it outputs to an ADIF file that can be
> imported to your logbook, uploaded to LOTW etc
>
>
Yeah after hitting send on the original post, I had the same thought about
HDMI instead of SVGA. Absolutely.
I also thought about the touch screen idea, but that's readily handled by a
touch screen with mouse emulation.
I think my biggest problem with the concept that I haven't completely
thought
The recent thread titled "P3 Point and Click" got me thinking...
I have a base model P3 (no VGA board or TX monitor). I really like how
smoothly it integrates with the K3. It has replaced the Softrock and
software panadapter that I had been using, with much less complexity- it
just works.
gt; wrote:
>
> How about using the KPod to tune VFO B and then have a macro that swaps
> A/B. Or just run SO2V.
>
>
> --
> *From:* Elecraft <elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> on behalf of Dave
> Fugleberg <dave.w...@gmail.com>
>
then have a macro that swaps
> A/B. Or just run SO2V.
>
>
> --
> *From:* Elecraft <elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> on behalf of Dave
> Fugleberg <dave.w...@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 15, 2017 7:44 PM
> *To:* Elecraft List
&g
When the K-Pod was first introduced, there was some indication that a
future enhancement would allow it to control the P3 - specifically, to
adjust the markers and 'tap to QSY'.
Is this feature available yet, or imminent?
I discovered that the P3 is pretty useful for unassisted search and pounce
I use an older Heil pro set with HC-5 element on my K3, with great results.
One nice thing on the K3 or K3S is that you can plug the two 3.5mm plugs
directly into the back of the rig- no adapters needed, and no cables
hanging out the front of the radio.
However, my advice to anyone is that the
In the past I installed quite a few power poles with a crimper that was not
designed for it. Then a friend bought the purpose-built crimper, which I
borrowed several times. HUGE difference. Makes it almost fun!
My dear wife took note of this, and conspired with my friend to get one
under the tree
Ed, I would love to know more about how you mounted that plate to get the
coax feed throughs out of the cab of your Ford. I have a 2015 F-150 The
thing has so many electronic gadgets and power accessories that I'm leery
of drilling holes just anywhere.
I've been contemplating a similar mobile
I use a SGC auto tuner in a similar configuration. Tuner at ground level,
40 feet of window line straight up to feed point of 130 foot doublet. TUN
PWR on the K3 is set to about 5 watts in the menu. Press and hold the XMIT
(Tune) button on the K3 and it tunes.
On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 7:05 PM George
Check out the SPKR+PH setting in the menu. Turn on when you want to hear
the speakers. You can program a PF key to toggle that mode if you want.
On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 6:12 AM 2EØLDZ wrote:
> Unless anyone knows how, it would be great to have selectivity between the
> rear
, 2016 at 11:57 AM iain macdonnell - N6ML <a...@dseven.org>
wrote:
> On Sat, Aug 6, 2016 at 9:26 AM, Dave Fugleberg <dave.w...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > Still trying to sort out my transverter problem - see my first post on
> that
> > today. I have only the transve
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