On Wednesday, February 8, 2006, at 10:24 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
Johnny B,
What weight of Amsoil are you running in your cars? I drove all
around last weekend looking for Mobil 1 5w40 for my 190D and had zero
luck. Every place I went to carried it but none actually HAD any. A
guy at one
On Wednesday, February 8, 2006, at 11:46 AM, Gary Thompson wrote:
I've searched every Walmart in town for Mobil1 5W40 as well. I'm
starting to get desparate as I REALLY need to do an oil change, but
only have 1 jug of 15W50 left.
Me too but I also tried 4 other places that normally carry
On Wednesday, February 8, 2006, at 10:24 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
Johnny B,
What weight of Amsoil are you running in your cars? I drove all
around last weekend looking for Mobil 1 5w40 for my 190D and had zero
luck. Every place I went to carried it but none actually HAD any. A
guy at one
Find the wires up near the radio, on the TD they were green/blk and some
variants of that as I recall. If the spkrs still work you can take a 9V
battery and touch it to the spkr wires and you will hear a pop when you
have the correct pair.
--R
Curt Raymond wrote:
So I took a look at the
On Wednesday, February 8, 2006, at 02:01 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
From the manual it looks like the fresh air doors under the hood
aren't opening, explaining why I have full heat all the time. could be
of course that the PB is bad... Gonna have to take a look at the doors
to see whats
On Wednesday, February 8, 2006, at 06:05 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
This is my first time charging a 134 ssytem.
When converting, don't they take about 80% of the R12 charge?
(By weight.)
-- Jim
Yes.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
Did brakes on my Galant and lower radiator hose on Diamante this
weekend. No beer, but rest was close enough. *sighs*
And since I'm typing and in a complaining mood anyway still need
a radiator, as the cause of the blown hose was the corrosion in the
radiator to begin with, which probably
actually, there are only 5 generations of S class. The 116 being the
first actualy S-class car.
Christopher McCann wrote:
excellent, thanks!
W116 - 5th gen
HA I'm no longer a gen-x-er. I'm a Gen-6-er!!
Chris
Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chris,
Try this
Well first of all you need to figure out how much R12 is supposed to be
in there. You want to install 80(maybe 85)% of that amount. When that
is done if everything is correct, you should probably see somewhere
between 30 and 50 on the low side and 250-350 on the high side. Sorry I
cant be
Then you tack on my 15% commission on each sale...
John Berryman wrote:
On Wednesday, February 8, 2006, at 10:24 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
Johnny B,
What weight of Amsoil are you running in your cars? I drove all
around last weekend looking for Mobil 1 5w40 for my 190D and had zero
luck.
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
actually, there are only 5 generations of S class. The 116 being the
first actualy S-class car.
I'd go along with you if you included the 108/109SEL as #1.
In answer to Tom's question about what pressure should be seen on the low
side port: It Depends.
The pressure will depend on evaporator temperature, cooling load, ambient
air temperature and engine speed, among other things. In practice, expect
to see about 300 to 350PSI on the high side with
Myself I personally consider that #1 too but was just basing my comment
on cars that are actually called S class.
Mitch Haley wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
actually, there are only 5 generations of S class. The 116 being the
first actualy S-class car.
I'd go along with you if you
We could be here debating that point for ever, I could argue that only since
the class system was truly introduce in 94 can a big merc be called an S
class.
A pontoon or finnie is not what you would call a S class but the bigger
limos of that era could be put in the S class category.
However
Wonder if I can pressure wash the block
with fresh coolant / water before allowing what is currently in block
into new core and radiator.
Maybe I'd better pay to have it done, ay?
You could do a Prestone flush (alkaline) (removes oils) followed by a citric
acid flush (ala MB) (removes scale)
Why not agree with Mercedes? There was a Finnie S (300SE) and a Ponton S
and a 108/109 S.
___
GG
St. Louis - Cincinnati
1997 SL500
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/Sites/My_Commanders.htm
-Original Message-
From:
No matter where they started they seemed to have stopped with the W126. Of
course it is hard to beat the perfection that is a W126
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of George Gregory
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 9:41 PM
To:
On 2/8/06, George Gregory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Why not agree with Mercedes?
What fun would that be? You leave nothing to argue about!
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
So, although all the models were listed under the S-class link, the
video states that the W116 is the first S-Class car.
On 2/8/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On 2/8/06, George Gregory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Why not agree with Mercedes?
What fun would that be? You leave nothing to
OK Don wrote:
So, although all the models were listed under the S-class link, the
video states that the W116 is the first S-Class car.
Makes sense, the Super class couldn't exist until they had a
proper compression engine for it. Maybe that's why the MBUSA
link mentioned the year 1978 for the
On 2/8/06 9:10 PM, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So, although all the models were listed under the S-class link, the
video states that the W116 is the first S-Class car.
No, it said the 116 was the first to be CALLED the S Class.
But Kleb is the expert (cough hack)
--
+--
GG
1997
End of the day it does not matter, just a whole bunch of snobbery. Peasants
in the A or C class and only well off people in the S and upper E classes.
Of course if you really want to pose/show off then the sports or Maybach
class is the go. I suppose the Maybach could be the SS class, then
Hi all...
With all this discussion about generations.. Maybe this will
whet your appetitell
Go for it.. the 6.9 is truly awesome
Take care, usual disclaimer No financial involvement..
Chuck
Phoenix AZ
From another list:
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 21:34:50 -0600
From:
which is what I was saying.
OK Don wrote:
So, although all the models were listed under the S-class link, the
video states that the W116 is the first S-Class car.
On 2/8/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On 2/8/06, George Gregory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Why not agree with Mercedes?
thats a little steep since 6.9 prices are in the toilet these days.
Chuck Landenberger wrote:
Hi all...
With all this discussion about generations.. Maybe this will
whet your appetitell
Go for it.. the 6.9 is truly awesome
Take care, usual disclaimer No financial
On 2/8/06, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I could argue that only since
the class system was truly introduce in 94 can a big merc be called an S
class.
I know the term S-class was commonplace (or at least became commonplace)
sometime during the lifetime of the 126, though I don't
it's real revisionist. to my mind, the first S-class as such was the W116
the 108s and 109s are just gussied up finless finbacks
On 2/8/06, George Gregory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On 2/8/06 11:12 AM, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Chris,
Try this link... It defines
it's all a matter of condition. all m100 prices have been in the toilet for
years. better examples will command higher prices. the rest will become
parts cars.
On 2/8/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
thats a little steep since 6.9 prices are in the toilet these days.
Chuck
Kaleb,
As you know, any buy/sell transaction is dependent on what the buyer
and seller consider to be an agreeable price. To say that 6.9 prices
are in the toilet does not take that factor into consideration.
I try not to paint any situation with a broad brush
Unfortunately or
On the west coast it is readily available at Kragen and at Schuck's Auto
Parts (same chain, two different names depending whether you're in Oregon or
California.) I don't know if they have stores in TX---I think Checker is
the same chain as well?
Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
On 2/8/06, Gary
On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 08:50:36 -0800 (PST) Christopher McCann
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Pretty sure it's just in German. But German is quite similar to English
and you can figure some of it out. What would be really helpful would
be a German-English English-German car vocab lexicon.
Also,
On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 19:00:53 -0500 John Berryman
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I/my vehicles are a good test bed for cold performance due to my
geographical location.
Which is where?
Craig
On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 21:49:57 -0500 Ed Booher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You could do a Prestone flush (alkaline) (removes oils) followed by a
citric acid flush (ala MB) (removes scale) then flush with LOTS of
water SEVERAL times.
My 2ยข
Rick Knoble
Out of curiousity, what kind of pump
Quick Google yielded a MBZ part number for Citric Acid Powder?
From: John Marks ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
Date: Thu 12 Sep 2002 - 10:35:04 EDT
Next message: Carl Ileka: RE: SPAM!!!
Previous message: Mike Aube: Re: Re: A small Peugeot adventure
In reply to: Mike Aube: Re: Re: A small Peugeot
Mercedes marketing department for the 1994 model year, though. I
snicker
whenever anyone refers to a 123 as an E-class. (Although that's not
as bad
Well, the 280E was probably equivalent.
as when people refer to a 300 or 500 Mercedes, etc., as if that
means
anything without the letters.
On Wednesday, February 8, 2006, at 08:05 PM, Ed Booher wrote:
.. still need
a radiator, as the cause of the blown hose was the corrosion in the
radiator to begin with, which probably means I might as well go ahead
and change the water pump and thermostat, for good measure since
corrosion is in
I suppose we could call the pre 124 compact models T (for taxi) class:-)
Is it true that the S in S class stands for snob (or was it scheisse)?
Hendrik
- Original Message -
From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February
On Wednesday, February 8, 2006, at 08:42 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Then you tack on my 15% commission on each sale...
Absolutely. Now where was I. Oh oil.. That dino stuff
is dayum good, mineral oil,olive oil, oil of Olay its all
good.
Johnny B.
I Mac
On 2/9/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Huh? Is your cooling system loaded with lye or muriatic acid or sumpin?
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
It's loaded with something :) It's a beautiful sea foam blue green
color both inside and outside the radiator.
--
Knowledge is
On Wednesday, February 8, 2006, at 09:49 PM, Ed Booher wrote:
Out of curiousity, what kind of pump would I use to circulate the
Prestone and Citric Acid? I'm assuming (and we all know how
destructive that can be) that I will have removed the radiator and
heater core by this point, as I know at
On 2/9/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Maybe you're right, better pay someone to do it. I'll do it for ya.
Sounds like you're getting emotionally prepared to donate a couple
thousand to your fave mechanic's kid's college fund.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
Yeah, me and
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 12:31 AM, Craig McCluskey wrote:
I/my vehicles are a good test bed for cold performance due to my
geographical location.
Which is where?
Craig
Adirondack Region, NY.. where the men are men and the
sheep run scared.
Johnny B.
I Mac
Don;t you people sleep??
You are awake too and in my case, I'm at work.
On 2/9/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don;t you people sleep??
--
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.
I'm just in from work!
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 03:42 AM, Ed Booher wrote:
I think I've paid a few tuitions. At least for a semester or two.
I strongly suggest you pay attention here lest you find yourself
homeless..s'pose you could live in your broke-down benz.
Cooling systems are not that
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 03:46 AM, Jeff Zedic wrote:
Don;t you people sleep??
No. There's plenty of time for that when I die. Actually I fell asleep
too early, knowing it will be futile to attempt sleep and a little
early for running pneumatic impact tools, I find myself here
On 2/9/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I strongly suggest you pay attention here lest you find yourself
homeless..s'pose you could live in your broke-down benz.
Cooling systems are not that sensitive. Drain the radiator and block,
refill, run, do it again then use
http://paultan.org/archives/2005/10/08/jiangling-landwind-x6-crash-test-by-tuv/
http://paultan.org/archives/2005/10/07/jiangling-landwind-x6-crash-test-outside-view/
http://paultan.org/archives/2005/10/07/jiangling-landwind-x6-crash-test-passenger-cabin/
This is Chinese 4x4 undergoing crash
G'day mates,
Just to let you know, ebay Oz in conjunction with our local GM mob are
auctioning off the last Monaro (I think you know them as GTO pontiac or
something like that) anyway check it out
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4611976689
Hendrik
who will not be bidding
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 04:11 AM, Ed Booher wrote:
Nah, I don't own a Benz yet. I own three Mitsu's
Well get you one!! Living in a Mitsubishi is not conducive to
cervical spine health.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
On 2/9/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Well get you one!! Living in a Mitsubishi is not conducive to
cervical spine health.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
*laughs* Ain't that the truth? I actually miss my 56 Bel Air ... I
could get *into* the engine bay to work. Mitsu's I
I would flush the current system before removing any components.
It is a shame that we can't find the old DuPont No. 7 flush anymore. It really
worked well on the old iron blocks.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed Booher
Sent:
Isn't that the SD that you were wanting me to take off of your hands a few
months ago? :-)
On 2/9/06, Dan Weeks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A year or so ago, I patched the trans cooler line on my 300SD by
slipping fuel line over the break and firmly attaching both ends with
stainless
You will usually be OK as long as trans did not start slipping real bad and
you tried to keep driving.
Also it is better to repair trans cooler lines using compression fittings
from local hardware store. Additionally you can use flare fittings too.
I have found that with the rubber hose clamp
you are working at 2:48am??
Ed Booher wrote:
You are awake too and in my case, I'm at work.
On 2/9/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don;t you people sleep??
--
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.
___
The air bag really helped alot, especially when the whole dash and
steering wheel slammed into the dudes head. That is the worse I have seen!!
Hendrik Riessen wrote:
http://paultan.org/archives/2005/10/08/jiangling-landwind-x6-crash-test-by-tuv/
I changed the R hard cooler line on my trans without jacking the engine or
removing the engine mount. It slides right in with just a little twisting and
turning. No need to bend it.
Luther
~
~A year or so ago, I patched the trans cooler line on my 300SD by
~slipping fuel line over the break
Why would you have to lift the engine to replace the cooler line? Its
only about a foot long between the front of the engine metal lines and
the radiator. Or are you saying your metal lines are leaking? Even so,
you shouldnt have to raise the engine any.
Dan Weeks wrote:
A year or so ago,
I personally find the velour interiors to be uncomfortale and unattractive
and for $14,500 I would rather purchase another 111 coupe, e.g. 250SE.
On 2/8/06, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb,
As you know, any buy/sell transaction is dependent on what the buyer
and seller
It might be scheisse for the 2007 model, but I thinik it was Sport in the
older ones...meaning touring more or less, I think. SL (sport leicht) for
what an American would consider a sports car...no?
Chris
Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I suppose we could call the pre 124
Dan,
You should be OK with just a few blocks of driving. BTDT.
Of course my daughter completely muched a 722.315 by driving (probably
at considerable speed, knowing her) until the car wouldn't go any more
when one of the transmission cooler lines blew.
Gary Thompson
1995 E320
On 2/9/06, Dan
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 09:46 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I think johnny b is a vampire, he stays up all night and sleeps all
day.
I just don't require much sleep, its been like that all my life. Never
could sleep during the day.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 09:52 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Why would you have to lift the engine to replace the cooler line? Its
only about a foot long between the front of the engine metal lines and
the radiator. Or are you saying your metal lines are leaking? Even
so,
you
That would make sense.
John Berryman wrote:
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 09:52 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Why would you have to lift the engine to replace the cooler line? Its
only about a foot long between the front of the engine metal lines and
the radiator. Or are you saying
Fuel Leak hose diameter on leak off connection
I am getting a fuel leak on 2 of the injectors. It appears to be that the cloth
covered rubber? Fuel lines that go between the injectors (on the leak off
connection) are in need of replacement.. What is the ID of this hose?
There are multiple
http://nashville.craigslist.org/car/132357785.html
No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Feb 09 17:02:25 2006
Received: from bay101-dav10.bay101.hotmail.com ([64.4.56.82] helo=hotmail.com)
by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id
I agree with the factory. I am not as familiar with the 187, but there
were definitely S models with the same distinction then as now. S has had
two concurrent meanings of years in reference to MB models.
S as in Sport 300SL, 190SL, SLK 230, 170S
S as in Super 220S, 220Sa, 220Sb, 300SE
Just call Rusty and order a meter of the hose.. That way you'll get the
right stuff. Change them all at one time. Saves frustration later.
At 09:42 AM 2/9/2006, you wrote:
Fuel Leak hose diameter on leak off connection
I am getting a fuel leak on 2 of the injectors. It appears to be
Hmm, no responses. Well, I bought the book (not for $75 as advertised on
mbusa.com)...I'll let y'all know if there are any interesting insights into
our collective mentality that feeds the love that never dies (used in an MB
ad once, quite recently actually).
Chris
Christopher McCann
Trampas wrote:
You will usually be OK as long as trans did not start slipping real bad and
you tried to keep driving.
It did, and I did. At first I thought it was the ice I was driving
on. It only slipped for about 3 blocks before I shut it down, but it
slipped badly.
Any advice?
D
--
Dan
You will be able to tell this question comes from someone who hasn't put in
many miles in their 240D yet:
Regarding the oil filter: There is a remote, drop-in-element type filter,
correct? I thought it was mounted on the firewall. Am I incorrect? Are there
two oil filters - a remote one, and
Oop, that will be confusing. I meant to say the mechanic says there is a
leak at the OIL filter housing gasket, not a fuel leak like I mistakenly
wrote in my previous post.
Brian
_
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger!
Ed Booher wrote:
It's loaded with something :) It's a beautiful sea foam blue green
color both inside and outside the radiator.
Sounds almost like someone ran low on coolant and topped it up with
washer fluid.
Brian Chase wrote:
Regarding the oil filter: There is a remote, drop-in-element type
filter, correct?
Not remote, though it is drop-in.
I thought it was mounted on the firewall. Am I incorrect?
Yes, it's mounted to the block.
Are there two oil filters - a remote one, and a traditional
Loren Faeth wrote:
Just call Rusty and order a meter of the hose.. That way you'll get the
right stuff. Change them all at one time. Saves frustration later.
Get the plug for the last injector, too. It likes to split when it gets
old.
On my '81 300TD, the driver door groans every time you open it. The
groaning begins upon opening, continues for 45 degrees of arc, then quits.
There is no play in the hinges according to the yank and heave test
method. I have greased and re-greased the hinges over and over. I have
soaked
Christopher McCann wrote:
Does anyone recall from the article - was it a parallel hybrid (like prius) or
a series hybrid like a locomotive (SIMPLE!).
I'm curious, too. There *are* simple ways to create parallel hybrids --
for example, a road-coupled hybrid where you have the electric motor
Oil filter housing gasket is a paper gasket. The oil filter assy is held
on with 5 allen bolts. you will need a 6 mm allen wrench, and you get to
it from underneath. if you use any RTV or other sealant, apply a very thin
film only with your finger. It should look and feel like almost
It's psychosomatic(sp). I groan too when I unfold in the morning.
Did you check the door check strap for binding and proper lubrication?
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marshall Field
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 1:45 PM
To: [EMAIL
Folks,
I seem to have developed the dreaded heater/climate control problem.
The german woman in the dash will almost NEVER let the heat come on
.maybe once every hour or two at the most. I seem to remember that
i need to remove the control and solder up a bunch of joints, correct?
Can
The screw on thing that you think is another oil filter is really your
fuel filter
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
Can you elaborate please?
Randy B
-Original Message-
Get the plug for the last injector, too. It likes to split when it gets
old.
I have found a new Lubro Moly product that actually works.
It is called Motor Oil Saver. I tried it my car last week. I went to
Florida and burned 4 quarts of oil going down, Burned less than 1 quart
coming back. Same route same conditions. It cost $8.00 a can and 1 can
does 5 quarts.
Rich,
If switching on the Defrost mode as David suggests does not product heat from
the defroster vents, then you probably need to replace the monovalve insert.
$40-$50 from Rusty.
Thanks,
Bruce
David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Rick Hawkins wrote:
Folks,
I seem to
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 02:00 PM, Dan Weeks wrote:
You will usually be OK as long as trans did not start slipping real
bad and
you tried to keep driving.
It did, and I did. At first I thought it was the ice I was driving
on. It only slipped for about 3 blocks before I shut it down,
On Thu, Feb 09, 2006 at 12:36:40PM -0800, kevin kraly wrote:
I found a 1974 240D for $100 with a new battery. It supposedly needs some
injector work, but maybe only a propper priming or injector line bleed or
perhaps fresh diesel is all that's needed. I figure it's worth a try.
If that's
://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20060209/ca13b1fe/Plug.jpg
-- next part --
Hope this helps.
Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
Hello Group,
I just got back to Texas from Jacksonville, Florida after picking my newly
acquired 6.5l Diesel Suburban.
Talk about the noise level inside that cabin let alone outside it!
I guess I got spoiled by the more refined MB ML 400CDI! In the Mercedes, one
barely notices the noise, but I
On Thu, Feb 09, 2006 at 03:22:43PM -0500, Rusty Cullens wrote:
I have found a new Lubro Moly product that actually works.
It is called Motor Oil Saver. I tried it my car last week. I went to
Florida and burned 4 quarts of oil going down, Burned less than 1 quart
coming back. Same route same
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 02:22 PM, Brian Chase wrote:
You will be able to tell this question comes from someone who hasn't
put in many miles in their 240D yet:
Regarding the oil filter: There is a remote, drop-in-element type
filter, correct? I thought it was mounted on the
You need new gears which are easy to install yourself www.odometergears.com
To remove instrument cluster:
#1 get metal coat hanger
#2 cut two straight pieces about 6 long
#3 put a 90 degree bend in each about 1/4 inch up from one end making an L
#4 put one L on left side of cluster one on
I don't think you can go wrong for 100 bucks..
Dave W
- Original Message -
From: Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $100 1974 240D too good to be true?
On Thu, Feb 09, 2006 at
You need new door checks call Rusty!
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Marshall Field
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 2:45 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Driver door groans upon opening
On my '81 300TD, the driver door
There are two types of plug for the last injector. One is a cap type that
does not last long. THe other is a steel barbed plug that goes in a 1
piece of the return hose, then the hose slips on the injector barb. If you
have the hose type, you don't need to buy anything. Just slit the old
Nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes!
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dave Wakin
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 3:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $100 1974 240D too good to be true?
I don't think
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 02:37 PM, John Ervine wrote:
616 184 07 80 - GASKET - OIL FILTER TO CYLINDER CRANKCASE
Our's used to leak. In fact, the 300SD leaks from that gasket, too.
Its a real common leak and a pain to change. Wouldn't attempt with my
sunday best on.
Johnny B.
ah. that's ingenious. But why in the road coupled version do you need an
extra generator? You have one engine which powers, say the front wheels
conventionally and it also turns a generator which powers an electric motor
which drives the rear wheels at a certain point, the conventional
Rusty wrote:
I have found a new Lubro Moly product that actually works.
It is called Motor Oil Saver. I tried it my car last week. I went to
Florida and burned 4 quarts of oil going down, Burned less than 1 quart
coming back. Same route same conditions. It cost $8.00 a can and 1 can
does 5
On Thursday, February 9, 2006, at 02:44 PM, Marshall Field wrote:
On my '81 300TD, the driver door groans every time you open it. The
groaning begins upon opening, continues for 45 degrees of arc, then
quits.
There is no play in the hinges according to the yank and heave test
method. I
1 - 100 of 144 matches
Mail list logo
