No you're not. You don't meter the sun, and if the subject is backlit,
it doesn't matter. You're taking a reading of the subject which is
unaffected by the back lighting.
If, as a photographer, you can't recognize a middle grey tone, you
should be using a PS and sign up for a photography
Hi Bob ...
The hood is cushioned. Take a careful look inside and you'll see a
layer of felt around the inner circumference of the hood where it comes
in contact with the lens. This is typical of Takumar hoods from that
era.
Many of the early Takumar hoods were very well crafted, some being
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 3:05 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Metering
No you're not. You don't meter the sun, and if the subject is backlit,
it doesn't matter.
Like I said ...If, as a photographer, you can't recognize a middle grey
tone, you
should be using a PS and sign up for a photography class.
And you're right - I should have said subject and not scene.
J. C. O'Connell wrote:
You stated: measure the brightest part of the scene and open up three
Hi William,
I'm interested in the winder if you don't mind shipping
internationally.
Paul Ewins
Melbourne, Australia
- Original Message -
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax Discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 4:30 PM
Subject: Equipment for sale
Hello Frantisek:
I find the split image screens useful, in fact I have two for the MX,
but, although I thought that the viewfinder magnification of the MZ-S
was small, now that I've had one for two months, I don't tihink it is a
problem. The MX has got 0,97 magnification, an I have always liked
I notice an increasing volume of messages which are on topic and are
labelled off topic, and at the same time I also notice an increasing volume
of messages which are off topic, but not labelled as such, like discussions
about jazz.
I can't stop those off topic threads, they shouldn't be posted
Flavio Minelli wrote:
Thanks all for your advice, I phoned the guy and found out the MX
already gone...
BTW I already have a Program A but I'm not willing to part with it ;-).
...
Well, as sometimes happen an occasion got lost but a better one cropped
up again.
Today I acquired an MX in
Hi all,
Recently I asked for advice on the above, and was delighted with the
excellent help given.
The film came back this morning, and I was hoping to speak to you about the
results and to correct any mistakes before I took any more similar pictures.
Someone, somewhere is looking at some old
Hi,
Frantisek wrote:
**: BTW, I have never had good luck with spotmetering faces of dark to
black skinned people - what is the best zone to put the spot reading
on?
I hesitate to get involved in this thread, but I wrote this reply
before the thread sort of spiralled down a little, so I'd
Hey, you two, be nice.
--- Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm sorry, I did not realize english was not your
primary language. In the
future you might want to remember that falsehood
means the same thing as
lie.
http://my.yahoo.com.au - My Yahoo!
- It's My Yahoo! Get your own!
-
Now tell me how I determine the brightest part of the scene to want detail
in. Assume I am new at this.
Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 1:48 AM
Subject: Re: Metering
You know what I think? I think that using a incident meter is too easy. I
think a bunch of the people here like to do things the hard way just to
prove they can. I do know how to use a spotmeter. I do know the zone system.
I don't own a spotmeter though I do occasionally take close up reflected
Hummm I hope that didn't come out the way you meant to say it.
To take an incident reading you usually want to hold the meter between the
subject and the camera with the dome pointed toward the camera (needs to be
in the same light as the subject). That will give you your base exposure. .
Friday, January 11, 2002, 6:04:25 PM, Chris wrote:
I think the best way (and it was used here too some way back) is this:
mf = manual focus
MF = MEDIUM FORMAT (it's bigger than sf, small format, eh g ?)
CB Personally, I prefer MedF and MF, since I tend to write AF instead of
CB af. But I'm
Middle gray is easy. Middle red always gives me a hard time. Middle green is
not bad, but middle blue is almost as hard as middle red. :) Guess I need to
get a point shoot camera. Anybody want to buy a Speed Graphic?
Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: Shel
Regretfully the pages don't show very well on my screen. The site was
probably developed with 'best viewed with 1024x768 pixels' in mind.
Frits Wüthrich
David Brooks wrote:
I was going through my bookmarks at lunch
yesterday and ran across Sid Barras's site i had
saved when he first started
Did you look at the infrared photos; they are super.
malcolm
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frits J. Wüthrich
Sent: 12 January 2002 11:34
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Sid's site
Regretfully the pages don't show very well on my
I think you might find that there is a strip of felt that is inset into a groove on
the hood where it mates to the lens when
reversed. I agree - the reversing hoods on these lenses is quite convenient and the
design is well done. In some cases the hood is
a little short to allow for this but
Hi Bruce,
I really can't answer your question with any authority. I can only say that my LX
meter is certainly more accurate than my other meters, but my other cameras are
older models: MX, Spotmatic Fs, etc. The LX meter' also seems to be more accurate
at a range of lighting conditions than my
J. C. O'Connell wrote:
Wrong! All built in camera meters are only accurate when aimed at
a subject with 18 % reflectance. Try taking a picture of a white
car or a black car using a built in camera meter. You will get
two different readings BOTH of which are wrong.
Of course. But we're
Hello,
For all those interested: I have some very nice Pentax
stuff for sale on Ebay Germany (I ship
internationally):
An AF400T professional flash (like new), a SMC Pentax
1:2.8 50mm Macro lens (almost like new),
a SMC Pentax 1:2.5/135 (excellent) and a SMC Pentax-FA
1:4 28-70mm AL (like new).
Not necessarily. I can think of numerous occasions where one might want
to open the shutter for a shot and wait for a certain lighting condition
to occur. I've done it several times. The one I recall specifically is
when I wanted to shoot a Dodge Ram that was driving up a mountain in the
dark.
I've received a number of offers to help out, in a very short period of
time, one of which I've decided to accept. My thanks to all who responded.
PDML is such a great place! I knew that already; this only further
confirms it. A wonderful community that we have here.
FWIW, I got an MV with
J. C. O'Connell wrote:
Putting a dark skinned face at zone 5 will cause everexposure, It probably
should be closer to zone 3 which would mean giving 2 stops LESS exposure
than
the spot meter reading.
A zone 3 exposure will render it almost solid black, rather than a shade of
gray. I had
Paul,
Though I shouldn't, I am interested in the 85/1.9.
Let me know if it is still available.
Thank you,
César
-Original Message-
From: Paul Stenquist [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 7:26 PM
Oops!
Sorry, should have gone to Paul only. Too early in the morning to be
responding to mail I guess.
César
-Original Message-
From: Matamoros, Cesar A.
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 7:59 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: A few inexpensive lenses
I'm not a left coaster, but I visit frequently. I've had some great photo hikes
in the Canyons of north Malibu. Just drive up the Pacific Coast Highway (you can
catch it where Interstate 10 terminates in Santa Monica). Sycamore Canyon is very
nice. It's right near the LA/Ventura County line on
Shel,
I see it now, a 1/4 inch band of felt.
Thanks, Bob S.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The hood is cushioned. Take a careful look inside and you'll see a
layer of felt around the inner circumference of the hood where it comes
in contact with the lens. This is typical of Takumar hoods from
Bob S. wrote:
I purchased a 85mm f1.9 Takumar thru reckless bidding on ebay. g
I just got the hood in another purchase and am amazed.
It reverses and stores on the lens perfectly, mating like the cap does.
It feels like it is cushioned, but it is not...just a good fit.
That is impressive!
J. C. O'Connell wrote:
gray scale edges.
The incidence metering technique gives the best POSSIBLE exposure
with a given film. But the only way to capture what your talking about
is to change to lower contrast film, using a spot meter or an in camera
meter
with the same film/developer is
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I purchased a 85mm f1.9 Takumar thru reckless bidding on ebay. g
I just got the hood in another purchase and am amazed.
It reverses and stores on the lens perfectly, mating like the cap does.
It feels like it is cushioned, but it is not...just a good fit.
That is
Kevin Cameras in California is selling off one of the most astounding
troves of most wanted manual-focus K-mount and screwmount lenses I've
ever seen. Afraid that his listings were too good to be true, I wrote to
Kevin Li. Here is his reply:
HI PAUL,
ALL THE LENS IN MY WEBSITE IS AVAILABLE,
Hi Ken,
Will you be driving from L.A. to Frisco? As Paul Sly Stenquist mentioned,
Malibu Creek area is nice. There are a couple of lighthouses in Palos
Verdes which is just south of LAX. The pier at Manhattan Beach makes
for a great sunrise/sunset shot. Los Angeles Harbor is kind of scenic.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
And that whole assembled for storage unit will slide
firmly into the matching hard case! :^)
and [EMAIL PROTECTED] adds:
And if you have the original cap, it can be placed over the lens and hood
combination. I love the old taks.
Bill and Paul,
I've
Paul,
He has added a lot of Pentax stuff to his listings, but $600 for the K85/1.8
is still too expensive for me. :-(
Regards, Bob S.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have informed Kevin that you will be coming. Now take a deep breath,
click below, and prepare to empty your wallets and
No one's arguing the need for high latitude film for this. For what you've
said to be true, all films would have to have the same latitude below the
reference density and all films would have to have the same latitude above
the reference density. This is simply not so.
Regards,
Bob...
The reason I like spot metering over incident metering is simple - I
can't walk on water.
Seriously - my subject is floating in the middle of a pond, bracketed
by transient reflections and highlights and maybe backlighting that
can fool a center-weight meter or a matrix meter. I sure can't walk
Paul - a good find, but at his prices he is not exactly giving the lenses
away! If anybody really really needed a 50/1.2, 120, or a 150, though, this
would be the place to go.
Stan
From: Paul F. Stregevsky [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 08:56:27 -0500
Film makers control the light a lot more than the average photographer
shooting in non-studio situations.
Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
I use an incident meter when I want consistent exposure. In some ways it is
sad that slide shows have gone by the wayside A good slide show had to have
consistent
Herb, I don't have this lens, but had looked into the usefulness of it. I
decided against it since it is not a tilt/shift lens and was seeking the
ability to tilt the depth of field as can be done with the C***n and N***N
tilt/shift lenses. I have queried several outdoor photo pro's and their
One day, honest injun, swear to God, I am going to write a book about
metering.
The fact is, there is NO foolproof method of metering. Incident metering is
NOT foolproof--just imagine yourself standing under cloudcover taking a
photograph of a distant sunlit scene, or vice versa. Gray card
It looks like the power zoom model. Seller probably just doesn't know.
Ask for a photo of the other side to see if the pz switch is there. Good
price - grab it.
Joe
P.S. I've found that this lens balances nicely on the MZ-S.
-
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Mike Johnston wrote:
I find it curious that none
of the advertising from any of the main makers (Pentax, Nikon, Canon,
Minolta) ever make any claims over the precision and consistency of
their meters.
[snip]
It's because the market doesn't respond to the claims by buying one over the
Yes, but they use a separate prism sensor for metering with the mirror up
from the OTF meter during exposure. Note: Many cameras have OTF metering for
flash control, but not for shutter control. Only the LX uses part silvered
primary mirror and a secondary mirror allowing the same sensor to be
There's no argument from me on this point. While a spot meter works for
me most of the time, and using one has helped me better understand how
light, film, and developing all work together, I also use other metering
formats.
Mike Johnston wrote:
One day, honest injun, swear to God, I am
Do it! Folks need better insight into this black art. Arcane knowledge of
such things is one thing that qualifies photography as a profession.
Regards,
Bob...
Let us contemplate our forefathers, and posterity,
and resolve to maintain the rights bequeathed to us
from the
I agree, it looks like my 28-105 PZ lensand you would think the seller should know
as the seller is Columbus Camera Group in Ohio..scares me if a camera store cannot
recognize what model a standard zoom lens actually is. But then again, maybe they do
not know what the price ought to
- Original Message -
From: Tom Rittenhouse
Subject: Re: Metering
Now tell me how I determine the brightest part of the scene to
want detail
in. Assume I am new at this.
I would open my eyes and look, but I tend to take a simplistic
approach to these things.
William Robb
-
This
- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: MZ7, MZ5, MZ3 bodies
Do you really need focus confirmation on such a short lens? I doubt
the focus confirmation would work properly on a lens with such wide
DOF.
You're absolutely right but i'm not
Hey all,
I've gotten permission from the gentleman at the
paper who controls expenses to purchase a new film
scanner for the photography department. There are
several that I'm looking at, but the one that
interests me the most is the Kodak RFS3600.
Specifically, it's ability to scan an entire
So, if I use a consistent exposure method,
but need an incident meter to accomplish that
goal, how do I turn my 35mm camera into an
incident meter?
Or is it easier to just carry one?
Collin
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go to http://www.pdml.net and follow
There's got to be more to it than that, Bill g Should I use both
eyes, or just the one I use when focusing? What if I wear glasses? Is
the brightest part of the scene always brighter? If there was no light,
would the scene still have a brighter part, and if so, how would I see
it? Could I
For Sale:
- 2 Pentax 70mm backs; accepts standard 70mm cartridges, filled with
15ft long rolls of 70mm perforated film. 90 exposures on one roll
without changinga gift from heaven for all winter/skiing
photographers;))
- 1 Viewfinder extension (designed for the 70mm back)
Outside
Nick,
Seems that someone on the list has one. Perhaps he will chime in. I
seem to remember him saying that the unit out of the box is poorly put
together and he had many hardware problems with it. Eventually, he
did some of his own modifications and now it is working quite well. I
don't know
Do you mean Quality Light-Metric on Hollywood Blvd, in Los Angeles?
Quality Light-Metric
7060 Hollywood Boulevard Suite 415
Los Angeles, California 90028
323-467-2265
Paul Stenquist wrote:
Almost all of them have them calibrated to match at Hollywood
So, if I use a consistent exposure method,
but need an incident meter to accomplish that
goal, how do I turn my 35mm camera into an
incident meter?
One possibility (although I have never used one, so I am not really
recommending them, just suggesting...) is the Expo/Disc -
I merely set my lens at a small enough spot that would preclude the
truck's headlights from providing adequate illumination, opened the
shutter, and waited for the lightning machine to fire. You can see it at
http://pug.komkon.org/01aug/mtgoat.html
So, in other words, you didn't spotmeter
Spotmeters are very useful tools, but using them for general photography is
sort of like using a micrometer to measure yardage.
g Good one.
Here's how I meter: first of all, I use a forgiving negative film with a lot
of latitude (I know, I know, technically speaking there is no such thing as
- Original Message -
From: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Odp: Prices shops (Was: 80/1.8 CZJ going cheap in Poland)
AL :))) Who said I'd keep the camera in the box? I'd rather put it into
my came
AL ra backpack and say to the customs that it's just my equipment. I
Paul,
He has added a lot of Pentax stuff to his listings, but $600 for the K85/1.8
is still too expensive for me. :-(
Regards, Bob S.
Sully,
Why not use a screwmount with an M42-to-K adapter? Same optics, half the
price, and, since one usually uses a portrait lens near wide open
Paul - a good find, but at his prices he is not exactly giving the lenses
away!
You know, life would be much more fun if people gave good lenses away.
*SIGH!*
--Mike
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go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions.
Help, I need help.
Can anybody help?
I need to know if:
--There is such a thing as a -2 diopter for the ME Super.
--If there is, how to get my hot little hands on one.
Please...help! If you can.
Many thanks,
--Helpless Mike
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To
Looks exactly like my FA28-105 with power zoom. It could be that the seller
doesn't have a body with the power zoom contacts and therefore doesn't think
it available. However, the ring that switches from power to manual should
still work.
- Original Message -
From: Gary Murphy [EMAIL
Hi,
there was a company a while back selling dome things that you can fit
over your lens. iirc Fred has/had one and may still have the url of
the suppliers. It always seemed like a good idea to me. Apparently you
can frig it by using a white aerosol cap provided you calibrate it.
Carrying a
Mike Johnston wrote:
Sully,
Why not use a screwmount with an M42-to-K adapter? Same optics, half the
price, and, since one usually uses a portrait lens near wide open anyway,
it's quite easy to operate.
Mike, are you sure the Takumar SMC 85 mm. 1.8 and the SMC Pentax (K) 85
mm. 1.8 are the
Fred wrote:
So, if I use a consistent exposure method,
but need an incident meter to accomplish that
goal, how do I turn my 35mm camera into an
incident meter?
One possibility (although I have never used one, so I am not really
recommending them, just suggesting...) is the Expo/Disc -
I was taking about when you want to caputre BOTH
very light highlights and Deep shadows, what you describe only helps the
shadows.
JCO
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Stenquist
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 8:27 AM
To: [EMAIL
On Sat, 12 Jan 2002 15:17:55 -0500, Bill Owens wrote:
Looks exactly like my FA28-105 with power zoom. It could be that the seller
doesn't have a body with the power zoom contacts and therefore doesn't think
it available. However, the ring that switches from power to manual should
still work.
Fred wrote:
Yes, true. However, to do a really thorough flare check you
should stop down to the intended shooting aperture with the DOF
preview lever,
That's exactly what I do :)
since flare can sometimes occur at only certain
apertures (and not always when wide open - I've learned this
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Collin Brendemuehl
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 2:22 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Metering system
So, if I use a consistent exposure method,
but need an incident meter to accomplish that
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Carlos Royo
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 3:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Same lens, half the price
Mike Johnston wrote:
Sully,
Why not use a screwmount with an M42-to-K adapter?
Mike, are you sure the Takumar SMC 85 mm. 1.8 and the SMC Pentax
(K) 85 mm. 1.8 are the same lens? According to Keppler's The
Asahi Pentax Way the Takumar has got 5 elements and goes up to
f:16. The Pentax K has got 6 elements and closes up to f:22
First, I wouldn't worry about the
Fred wrote:
So, if I use a consistent exposure method,
but need an incident meter to accomplish that
goal, how do I turn my 35mm camera into an
incident meter?
Well, Fred did not write that...
Fred
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and goes up to f:16.
I cant remember if the 85mm F1.8 SMCT goes to f16 or f22
anyone know?
Only to 5/16.
Fred
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This could be a useful article for the original poster...
-Original Message-
From: herb greenslade [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: 12 January 2002 23:57
To: Pentax User's group
Subject: Re: Inexpensive Photo Scanner v. PhotoCD
Just to give you my experience for neg or slide
I agree with the advice to consider M42 mount 85s. That's the only way most of
us mortals can hope to afford--much less find--the Pentax 85/1.8.
Well, I still have a very, very clean and pretty screwmount 85mm f/1.8
(Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, with matching hood, caps, and case) for sale
for
Delano...
I'm not sure if I'd qualify as a pure-exclusive MF shooter as I do have
1 AF lens (50mm f1.4) that I bought with my Zx-5n QD, I personally find
the ZX-5n a pretty nice MF camera, once you change out the focusing
screen. I've had a learning curve to get over I'll admit... Mostly the
Mike, are you sure the Takumar SMC 85 mm. 1.8 and the SMC Pentax (K) 85
mm. 1.8 are the same lens? According to Keppler's The Asahi Pentax Way the
Takumar has got 5 elements and goes up to f:16. The Pentax K has got 6 elements
and closes up to f:22
Carlos,
Yes. The Takumar f/1.9 is the one
- Original Message -
From: Kenneth Waller
Subject: Re: Pentax 28mm shift lens
Herb, I don't have this lens, but had looked into the
usefulness of it. I
decided against it since it is not a tilt/shift lens and was
seeking the
ability to tilt the depth of field as can be done with the
Way off topic, but someone on the list is bound to get hit by this new
virus/worm, just starting the rounds; as usual it is spread
automatically by Outlook Express.
It is a VERY nasty one, so beware. Note that it will delete files and
reformat your C: drive for you.
This info is from Norton.
- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell
Subject: RE: Re[4]: getting LX - worth it? (repairs,...)
Something to think about: The Pentax 6x7 is a full averaging
meter. No center weighting, no multi patterning. Nothing
fancy.
In many ways, a TTL incidence meter, if there is such a
- Original Message -
From: Rob Studdert
Subject: Re: Re[4]: getting LX - worth it? (repairs,...)
On 12 Jan 2002 at 0:57, William Robb wrote:
Something to think about: The Pentax 6x7 is a full averaging
meter. No center weighting, no multi patterning. Nothing
fancy.
I could never
Yeah, I wish. So, they did extend that offer? Last I
heard it ended Dec 31. The only thing is that I'm not
real big into Kodak. By the way, I know that Kodak
includes film settings for it's own films, but do they
include settings for Fuji?
Nick
--- Rob Brigham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This is
Rob, thanks for the kind comments on this image. What I posted is pretty
much the original full image. I've yet to print it but I believe it will
print well.
Ken Waller
- Original Message -
From: Rob Brigham [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 7:31 AM
John,
Thanks for the reply. I was actually talking about Medium Format by using
the abbreviation MF but your post does bring up a question. I did not
realize that you can change the focusing screen on the ZX-5n. How is this
done and what added benefit does it offer?
Thanks,
Delano
on
Ahhh, I have a disciple. And yee shall have everlasting contentment
with your camera, Grasshopper.
On Saturday 12 January 2002 13:56, Mike Johnston wrote:
The result is that for the most part, my contact sheets are perfectly
consistent. And I'd match my prints (within their
Mike, try BH's site under Photo/35mm Body Lens Accessories/Diopters
Eyepieces/Pentax
On Saturday 12 January 2002 14:08, Mike Johnston wrote:
Help, I need help.
Can anybody help?
I need to know if:
--There is such a thing as a -2 diopter for the ME Super.
--If there is, how to get my
Fred dumbly said:
Only to 5/16.
I don't know why I didn't type f/16 - sheepish grin. Sorry.
Fred
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On 12 Jan 2002 at 12:28, herb greenslade wrote:
A little background for Rob
With small town and country homes, one crosses the road, stands back some and
usually with a 70-210 zoom, there is little distortion, and what little there is
can be corrected in Photoshop. The problem starts
On 12 Jan 2002 at 17:40, Frantisek Vlcek wrote:
I have no experience with scanning grainy film at 4000+ ppi, but from
what I read in the thread earlier, the problem was that not a
continuous tone image but a line art image is recorded when the grain
is larger than the CCD's pixel size -
I've put up a new web site. Comments are welcome and appreciated.
Paul
http://www.portfolios.com/PaulStenquist
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I have long believed that this is correct: The two lenses are identical. However,
the SMC Tak 85/1.8 tales a 58 mm filter, while the Pentax SMC 85/1.8 uses a 52 mm.
I have both. I'll take a look at them tomorrow. Too tired tonight. sigh. BTW,
$300 is an excellent price for the SMC Tak,
Hi Mike,
Welcome back. It's good to hear your point of view again.
I owned cameras long before I owned meters. A Mamiyaflex and a Nikon SP2
to be specific. I knew sunny 16 and where to go from there since I was ten or
twelve years old (used my dad's Argus), and I shot many rolls of good
Hi Rob,
Actually, I didn't know that. I'm glad you explained.
Since you have experience with the Pentax, were there any problems caused
by its only having a 5 blade aperture? (I'm wondering specifically about
little pentagonal highlights)
And if both score on image quality, then a choice
I've added a dozen or so new photos, most of them taken with the FA*
600/4 and PZ1p. Go to www.photolin.com and click on the Hawking in
the City photo.
It was a damn cold morning, and I wasn't willing to stick around to
get the range of photos I wanted, but there's a couple of keepers in
the
Hi ...
I've just made an update to the Pentax Repair Shops page on my site to
include repair facilities for Pentax light meters, and to make the page
more readable. The URL is
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
Please let me know if you have any additional
Hi Tom,
In my example, I could have used an incident meter if the shadow area was
within reach or extended to where the camera was positioned. However, a wide
range of values might have moved me to pull out a spotmeter in any case. In
general, where scenes include a wide range of highlight and
Paul ...
It looks nice. I just took a quick peek, and will go back later. It's
far better than what you had before, and I'm glad to see that you've
made the leap.
Paul Stenquist wrote:
I've put up a new web site. Comments are welcome and appreciated.
Paul
Great photographs. Did you mean to put January 2002?
or 2001? I can hardly believe this was ~in~
Carrollton... :)
Nick
--- John Mustarde [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've added a dozen or so new photos, most of them
taken with the FA*
600/4 and PZ1p. Go to www.photolin.com and click on
the
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