The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 97 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E23 HVAC '85 Re: Quick wear inside rear tires on M5 Re: Lubricate E23 Accel Cable? Accel Hesitation? Exploding tensioner pulleys Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Laguna Seca Open Track Feb 7th Re: quick wear on inside rear tires on M5 Re: quick wear on inside rear tires on M5 RE: E-bay Xenon Bulbs for E36 Re: Quick wear inside rear tires on M5 E30 Wheel Tire Combo Re: [E36] Bent valves Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 13:51:55 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E23 HVAC '85 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Disconnect the black vacuum line at the firewall, that runs from the pump. Remove the red vacuum line from the heater valve, put the black line on the pump. It's a quick kludge to see if the valve works, but none of your vent "motors" will work while you have it hooked up this way. If you start getting heat in the car, then the control system has a problem. If you have a vacuum gauge, put it on the red hose (put the black one back where it was) and set the controls to full heat. If you see vacuum at the gauge, then the valve is bad, otherwise the control system has a problem. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Brett, > > I have and hold good vacuum. The problem appears to be getting any heat > into the cabin. This is the push button control type and when in "Up/Down" > or "Auto" mode for eg. the doors open properly and air is > re-directed as it > should be. Just no heat. > I'm going to disconnect the vacuum line to the heater valve and force open > the valve and see if coolant comes into the core by gauging the > air temp or > the temp. of the return line. I'm thinking that maybe this "control unit" > is the culprit if it controls the blending or solenoid operations. > Otherwise it might be one of the control panels or even one of the temp > sensors. > > -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 13:50:55 -0500 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Quick wear inside rear tires on M5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I think 15K miles is pretty good for an M car. I used to go > through a set of > tires every 12K miles. 12k! Damn grampa, it's the pedal on the right..... ;-P > > Bora Your old buddy Lee ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:41:25 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Lubricate E23 Accel Cable? Accel Hesitation? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Bill, 1. Interesting timing to ask about the heater valve. The cowl is the black "grill" just under the windshield wipers. Remove the two center screws and start with the driver's side cover. Pop the fender end up by either pinching the metal tabs or just pulling up on the end. Work the grill out from under the wiper and off of the fluid squirter. On the passenger side remove the two screws up against the windshield. Then it 's the same as the other side. Now you have to remove the 8? metal screws which hold the vent sheet metal against the rain gutter. Lift off the cover until it begins to move. DON'T pull all the way as the vacuum lines and fluid lines are still attached. You can lift the unit off and move it forward to rest on the front of the opening. Now the back end of the heater valve is exposed. 2. I wouldn't lube the accelerator pedal with anything but a dry lube such as graphite. A wet lube will just accumulate dirt wear particles and accelerate the wear. If the cable is binding be sure the cable fittings at the intake are not bound up. The bog on acceleration may also be a bad throttle switch or a sticking throttle plate. You can clean up the area around the plate with a good solvent and a rag. I recently had a hesitation and stalling which turned out to be two teeth of the ring gear meeting their maker and causing the ECU to go haywire. If you're up to it crawl under the car (with appropriate precautions) and clean up the reference and timing sensors at the bell housing. Don't mix up their positions. There may be some metal sticking to the sensors giving a bad reading. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 15:30:25 -0500 (EST) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Exploding tensioner pulleys Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, So we had an interesting failure over the weekend... Driving down the interstate in my fiancee's '93 325is (135k miles), we suddenly hear a moderate belt slipping noise. Then, maybe 30 seconds later, there's a small bang and the (aftermarket) alt guage drops to 12 volts, the battery light comes on, and power steering starts going away. So... No belts. Pulled off the highway and after poking around determine that both tensioner pulleys are destroyed and mostly gone (as well as twisted up remains of belts). Alt pulley and PS pulley both spin and feel ok. Didn't check the water pump pulley as the belt was jammed all around it and forgot it after I got the belt remains cleared out. Belts were only a month or two old. When I replaced them, the tension part of the tensioners had felt smooth and free, though I can't remember if I spun the pulleys by hand to check the bearings. What I'm thinking happened is that one of the pulley bearings seized up, overheated, and exploded, throwing the belts and taking out the other pulley along the way. I'll be looking at the car under some light tonight to assess the damage and figure out what parts to order, but just figured I'd post here to see if this is a common failure, etc. I've never exploded a tensioner pulley before! :-) Mark ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 12:44:04 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FWIW - I never heard of it happening either, BUT when we were prepping my car for the 25 Hours of Thunderhill my mechanic highly recommended we replace the tensioners. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Andy Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 12:30 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Exploding tensioner pulleys Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Howdy, So we had an interesting failure over the weekend... Driving down the interstate in my fiancee's '93 325is (135k miles), we suddenly hear a moderate belt slipping noise. Then, maybe 30 seconds later, there's a small bang and the (aftermarket) alt guage drops to 12 volts, the battery light comes on, and power steering starts going away. So... No belts. Pulled off the highway and after poking around determine that both tensioner pulleys are destroyed and mostly gone (as well as twisted up remains of belts). Alt pulley and PS pulley both spin and feel ok. Didn't check the water pump pulley as the belt was jammed all around it and forgot it after I got the belt remains cleared out. Belts were only a month or two old. When I replaced them, the tension part of the tensioners had felt smooth and free, though I can't remember if I spun the pulleys by hand to check the bearings. What I'm thinking happened is that one of the pulley bearings seized up, overheated, and exploded, throwing the belts and taking out the other pulley along the way. I'll be looking at the car under some light tonight to assess the damage and figure out what parts to order, but just figured I'd post here to see if this is a common failure, etc. I've never exploded a tensioner pulley before! :-) Mark __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 16:06:20 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I lost my tensioner pulley on the Way to Mid Ohio, Just a note, that you can steal the Air conditioner tensioner pulley in a pinch to get home. You need to check the pulleys whenever you change the belts to make sure they're not starting to seize. I suspect that you may need to change the whole tensioner device, which is actually a big spring loaded block, not just the pulley itself. It probably couldn't hurt to do the tensioner while you're in there. The manual says you need to pull the fan to get the belt on, but you can snake it around the fan if you don't have the fan removal tools. It's a bit fiddly, but I got it done in the rain in an autozone parking lot. Best way to work is a 7 mm allen socket on a long handle or a 7 mm allen key extended with a longish closed end wrench. You might want to check the water pump, thermostat cover while you're in there. Marc Plante E36 325i, 218k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 12:43:53 -0800 From: Roger Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Laguna Seca Open Track Feb 7th Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If anyone is interested in a little fun, there are some more spaces available in a Laguna Seca open track hosted by the Northern California Shelby Club. As some of you may know, I've run with them quite a bit with my black E36 "mutt car" & the events are always safe & well organized with plenty of track time & reasonable rates. Check out their web site if interested: http://www.norcal-saac.org/ Click on the "2004 Events Calendar" then "Winter Surprise Open Track" for details. Also, currently the event is listed for Sat & Sun (7-8th) but may go back to Sat only as registration is slow for Sunday. -- Roger Baker ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 14:45:29 -0600 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: quick wear on inside rear tires on M5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My last set went 14K, which I was pretty happy with as my NSX went through rears in about 4-5K mi. -rss >I think 15K miles is pretty good for an M car. I used to go through a set >of tires every 12K miles. > >Bora > _________________________________________________________________ Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 19:06:13 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: quick wear on inside rear tires on M5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> NSXs were notorious for rear tire wear due to high toe-in. Gary Derian > > My last set went 14K, which I was pretty happy with as my NSX went through > rears in about 4-5K mi. > -rss > >I think 15K miles is pretty good for an M car. I used to go through a set > >of tires every 12K miles. > > > >Bora ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 16:18:00 -0800 (PST) From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: E-bay Xenon Bulbs for E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> No, don't get these. I don't have personal experience with these types of bulbs, but I hear they have lower light output compared to stock. Even up to a point where it is dangerous. Maybe you'll notice out on the streets where someone is driving with noticably bluer headlights. If you try to look at the light they are projecting down the road, you'll might notice it is just not lighting up what's ahead. As timothy says, silverstars are good for getting increased light output. I use these on my "other" car. I do notice they are brighter and whiter... BUT, I don't think they really throw the light much further. From what I understand that is due to the design of the reflector in the housing. So I'll drag onto reflector experience. My girlfriend had a New Beetle with halogen headlights. It lighted up the road much better than my M Coupe. It is because of the projector style housing. It is just doing a better job focusing the light down the street than my MC. Mike --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36476&item=2455322346 > > Anybody heard of these? Not sure about the > "American" quality, but they do > have a lifetime warranty, unless I missed the fine > print. > > The ad list them for M3s, but they should fit any > e36, correct? > > > Phil __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 19:10:04 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Quick wear inside rear tires on M5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As others have said, that is not such bad tire wear. Check the rear toe. I use only 1mm toe-in. Factory spec is for more which helps keep the rear end nailed down but also increases tire wear. Another solution is to mount a block of wood under the gas pedal. Gary Derian > > Discount Tire says they won't fix a nail flat on a rear tire on "Helga," my > M5, because "inside wear to belts -- all M5's do this because of performance > camber settings..." Jeez, these Toyos only have $15,000 miles or so. What > gives?! > > Dana LeJune > Houston, TX 77006 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 01:29:56 -0800 (PST) From: Kyle Sanchez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC BMW LIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Yahoo E30 Group <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30 Wheel Tire Combo Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well I've been looking at my wheel tire options for my 89 325i. I have a set of 17 x 7 BBS RK's, with 4x100 lugs. I will be running Knoi Adj. with ground control springs, M3 CA bushings, GC Camber Plates, bimmerworld rear adj. camber/toe bushings. I used to run 215/40 17 yoko's. I saw that Nitto started making 225/40 17 NT555's. Will these fit, what other size's come recomend. BBS doesn't make the RK's in 7.5 width with 4x100 lug spacing. Thanks Kyle Sanchez 89' 325i <-- M20B28 soon __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 09:39:50 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [E36] Bent valves Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 1/20/04 4:51 PM, Dennis and Nancy Meredith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I lost compression in one cylinder of my 325i (it's a > 1992) so I pulled the head off and the exhaust valves > were bent and the piston had a couple of nicks out of > it. All of the other valves and pistons look fine. Has > anyone got any idea what could have caused this. I > replaced the head over a year ago and everything > seemed to be running fine until a couple of months > ago. Could I have done something wrong with getting > the timing set that would cause this? Any help is > greatly appreciated. The usual cause of bent valves in the E36 is mechanical over-revving, and is not uncommon in the M3. However this is less likely in a 325 due to its lower rev limit. And maybe lower valve lift? In your case I'd suspect that the cam timing was slightly off after reassembly. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:01:04 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 12:30 PM 1/20/04, Mark Andy talked about: >I'll be looking at the car under some light tonight to assess the damage >and figure out what parts to order, but just figured I'd post here to see >if this is a common failure, etc. I've never exploded a tensioner pulley >before! :-) Me either, but I just recently replaced both the tensioner and idler pulleys on the M3 (139K miles) due to the noise they were making. Once removed, if was fairly easy to tell they were all dried out inside. Chances are they might have suffered the same fate as your's if they hadn't started making noise, calling attention to themselves :-) Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:22:03 -0500 (EST) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, On Wed, 21 Jan 2004, Jim Bassett wrote: > >I'll be looking at the car under some light tonight to assess the damage > >and figure out what parts to order, but just figured I'd post here to see > >if this is a common failure, etc. I've never exploded a tensioner pulley > >before! :-) > > Me either, but I just recently replaced both the tensioner and idler > pulleys on the M3 (139K miles) due to the noise they were making. > > Once removed, if was fairly easy to tell they were all dried out inside. > Chances are they might have suffered the same fate as your's if they hadn't > started making noise, calling attention to themselves :-) Well, at least I'm not the only one with tensioner issues... :-) Had a chance to look at the car last night. Its about what I'd seen in the parking lot after it happened... Both tensioner pulleys are destroyed. Fan blades look fine (I was wondering if they'd have been damaged by exploding bits of pulley), A/C, PS, Alt, and Water pump pulleys all spin free and feel fine. The plastic radiator shroud was knocked slightly out of place though. Looks like we can just finese it back into place, perhaps with some epoxy or zip ties if some mounting tabs have broken or something. Shouldn't be a big deal. One question though... My friend (an actual mechanic, vs. me who just plays one on weekends :-) is used to seeing a plastic underbody panel just aft of the radiator and under the fan/belt area on the BMWs he's worked on (which isn't that many). We were wondering if there's supposed to be an underbody panel there on a '93 325? Anyone know? Thanks! Mark ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
