The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 101 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: M20 Injector's E46 Exhaust Recommendations Re: E46 Exhaust Recommendations was re: snow tire wheels for M3? now <fs> M3 winter wheels <Misc> mounting a stereo amp in an E36 Re: Accident Just Happened Re: Accident Just Happened Re: [E36] Bent valves Re: ///M RGB? Oil in air intake, '86 325e Re: Oil in air intake, '86 325e Re: snow tires wheels for M3? Cylinder Head Torquing advice Re: E46 Airbag/seatbelt question Anyone heard of intermittent stalling on E46?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:46:34 -0800 (PST) From: Kyle Sanchez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: M20 Injector's Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You can check out: <http://strictlyeta.net/technical/328i_4.html> Stock M20 325i injectors are rated at 149cc/min, about 15 lb. injectors. But e/i injectors are not of the same impedance. So 'e' injector can't be used in place of 'i'. Unless your converting to a 325i wiring harness, then the injector's are just that fuel injector's. Regarding Mustang injector's in the big six, No Ford parts came in any BMW's. Both company's did however use Bosch injector's of the same impedance. Hope this helps Kyle Sanchez So I guess no one's running 17 inch rims on there E30, 4x100? No reply's to my post. >Gruppe: >I checked the archives for information but didn't >find any. Regarding the Mustang injectors in the big >six. Does anyone know the statistics (flow >rate >etc.) for the injectors in an eta motor? >Gilbert Hoffman __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:39:53 -0800 From: Roger Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E46 Exhaust Recommendations Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So what's the latest opinions on exhausts for an E46 330i??? I'm looking for a small increase in sound level with some HP benefits to complement the software, intake & pulleys I'm installing next weekend. Since this is my daily driver, I would prefer to keep it mild. For reference, I have a UUC System U on my rather modified E36 3.2L track car (with header) & though it works well on that application, it's a bit louder than what I'm looking for on my 330i. -- Roger Baker ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:31:55 -0600 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E46 Exhaust Recommendations Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If what you want is a small improvement in sound, you can disconnect the vacuum hose that closes off half of the muffler during parts of the drive cycle. Look at the muffler from underneath the car, there is a flap in one of the tailpipes that closes when the car is running via a vacuum operated solenoid. I bought some generic vacuum caps from NAPA and disconnected and capped off the hose then wire tied it to the inside of the bumper. This allows a more direct path for the exhaust through the muffler and you get a slightly more aggressive sound. I was considering an aftermarket exhaust upgrade for my 330i, but decided to try this first it sounds pretty good IMO and is not too loud. I am sure it doesn't provide any performance benefit, however I am not sure if any of the aftermarket exhausts provide much gain on this car either. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:55:59 -0500 From: Rob Verenna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: was re: snow tire wheels for M3? now <fs> M3 winter wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a set of TSW (?) 16" wheels that fit my '95 M3 fine with no spacers, that I'm looking to sell. I don't know the model, but they must be NLA as I can't find a picture of them on the web - but I can go snap a few digital pics for serious buyers. They're a plain design (no bling or chrome, a basic 5 wide spoke design - very easy to clean) and in great shape. They currently have some worn Blizzaks on them. The only issue is they have a center cover, bigger than just the cap BMW wheels use that also covers the lug nuts... and I can't find them. The wheels work just fine without them obviously, it's an appearance thing. If anyone is interested, make me an offer. - rob Bora said: > No and no. I believe very few 16 inch wheels clear the E36 M3 brakes. > And they are no longer available. Your best bet is to pick up a cheap > set of M3 wheels and get matching snows. > > On 1/22/04 17:30, "Mike Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> Just bought a 99 M3 today. Have 15" snow tires mounted on steel >> wheels for my 93 325i. Will they fit? Also have 16" Z3 wheels with >> worn out tires. Do they fit? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:59:42 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <Misc> mounting a stereo amp in an E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm in the process of updating my car stereo amplifier in my E36 and wondering where people are mounting amplifiers for aftermarket installs. My last amplifier was mounted up against the driver's side of the trunk, outside of the carpet, with the crossovers for the front components mounted behind the carpet where the stock amp used to be. I found that the last amplifier's mounting interfered with access to tail light bulbs on the drivers' side. It also cut into the working width of the trunk just enough to make golf clubs an awkward proposition. has anyone come up with other spots to mount a moderate sized (50W) amp? I'm thinking up under the parcel shelf at the top of the trunk might be an alternative...mounted right side up with a little room for cooling. Thoughts? Marc Plante [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 09:31:56 -0500 From: "Bill Heumann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Accident Just Happened Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Celisa, Sorry to hear about your accident but it is a great thing it was relatively minor. I can only emphasize what the others have already said to you in prior responses. Most of the modern BMW's (yours included) have a pretty wide array of features that are designed to help prevent the driver from making mistakes. This includes ABS, DSC (or whatever your stability control is called), good breaks, sophisticated suspension, etc. Having said all that, the car design can not correct for physics (like no traction if your car is hydroplaning) or the incorrect driver inputs you may have given in the fraction of a second that most of the mistakes probably occurred. If you have not spent any time with your car on a skid pad and/or at other driver education events that allow you to experience loss of traction in safe circumstances, you should. For example, most drivers that first learned to drive on cars without ABS (if you are about 40 years old or older) don't know how to use ABS properly. When you stomp down hard (like you are supposed to) on ABS breaks they will brake the car as rapidly as possible while preventing the brakes from locking which allows you to continue to steer around that rock in the road. If you press the brakes tentatively or pump them as most of us older folks were taught to, they will not operate as they are intended. In addition, if you do stomp on them, but stare at the rock in the road, you will hit it. The only way you can get past prior habits and natural reflexes that are wrong is by practice. In comparison to many other cars, bimmers tend to make you think you are good driver. In truth that is simply the result of clever German engineers giving you some advantages that drivers of many other cars don't have. That doesn't really help though when your car is outside of it's control envelope. Learning how to avoid that circumstance and what to do should you get there will only happen with training and practice. Be glad there was only $6k of damage and sign up for some classes. I am sure your local chapter of BMW CCA (as well as others in your area) can help. An additional benefit is that the classes are so much fun that it's almost unfair to call them "education." Regards, Bill Heumann 2002 E46 M3 1997 E36 328Is 2003 Z4 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:57:56 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Accident Just Happened Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Heumann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <snipped> In addition, if you do stomp on them, but stare at the rock in the road, you will hit it. <snipped> Excellent point Bill. Look where you want to go! Studies have shown that drivers actually apply different control inputs depending on where they are looking when trying to avoid an obstacle. The short version is that you're much more likely to successfully avoid the obstacle if you look where you want to go rather than fixating on the obstacle. Brian '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 14:34:17 +0000 From: "Evan A" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E36] Bent valves Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 1) If the timing was off, could only one cylinder's valves would be bent? 2) Why would it take so long for the problem to show up? 3) Is it possible the engine was turned backwards during reassembly? 4) If the head is still on, you should be able to check the cam timing before you tear it down. Most important thing now is to ensure that it goes back together correctly next time. Evan Well, In any case I have bent valves. I don't remember over-revving. But I have been teaching my teenage son to drive so I can't completely rule it out. I think the most likely cause of these bent valves is my error on installing the head. I must not have gotten it at exactly top dead center. I have the Bentley manual and went by the directions in there. Does anyone have any tips and tricks for getting the cam timing just right? _________________________________________________________________ Let the new MSN Premium Internet Software make the most of your high-speed experience. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 06:34:28 -0800 From: Brad Houser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Jason Knight'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: ///M RGB? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Keywords: BMW > Jason Knight wrote: > > I have an email saved from another list that indicates the M > colors are: > > Blue: Pantone Process Blue > Purple: Pantone 268 > Red: Pantone Warm Red > Here is another link: http://www.stlbmwclub.com/wwwboard/messages/2196.shtml For painting - Blue-Violet Glasurit/BMW 4000 Light-Blue Glasurit/BMW 5002 Red Glasurit/BMW 353 For printing - Blue: Pantone Process Blue Purlpe: Pantone 268 Red: Pantone Warm Red RGB: blue - 0 138 201 purple - 43 17 90 red - 241 26 34 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:29:02 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Oil in air intake, '86 325e Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 2nd try given no responses the first time. I noticed lately a big puff of blue smoke indicating oil when I first start the car but nothing afterwards. While changing out the alternator I noticed a large puddle of oil in the rubber hose connecting the air intake to the throttle body. Anyone have an idea what would cause this and how to fix? Other than startup it doesn't burn oil and oil use is low for a car with 200k + miles. As usual, thanks in advance for all of the advice. Carey Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:46:59 -0800 From: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Oil in air intake, '86 325e Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sounds like blowby residue collecting in the throttle body. I assume this model has a vacuum hose that runs from the valve cover to the intake? It's likely coming from there. A certain amout of blowby would be consistant with this amount of mileage. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 7:29 AM Subject: [UUC] Oil in air intake, '86 325e > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > 2nd try given no responses the first time. > > I noticed lately a big puff of blue smoke indicating oil when I first start the car but nothing afterwards. > > While changing out the alternator I noticed a large puddle of oil in the rubber hose connecting the air intake to the throttle body. > > Anyone have an idea what would cause this and how to fix? > > Other than startup it doesn't burn oil and oil use is low for a car with 200k + miles. > > As usual, thanks in advance for all of the advice. > > Carey > > > > Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam > BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters > JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:50:05 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: snow tires wheels for M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mike, There are a few 16" wheels out there that do fit (though it is kind of tight). Ronal makes a few styles in a 16x7.5 (I know as I have a set). I believe there are a couple of other brand wheels that do fit. You will need a 205/55 16 tire to approximate the size of the factory 245/40 or 225/45 setup. -Justin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 08:38:57 -0800 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Cylinder Head Torquing advice Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I had my head rebuilt, ported, polished and EVO cams installed about three years and 30,000 miles ago. Subsequently, I'm curious (only because I ran into this on my M6)... Does the cylinder head, after a job like that, need to be re-torqued at some time in the future? If so, when? On my M6, which is principally the same head, after the same amount of mileage after the rebuild, the car began to run warm (up to three-quarters). My mechanic went through everything (radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, etc) only to find that re-torquing the cylinder head solved the cooling issue. The problem? The cooling galleries were mis-aligned due to the head not being as tight to the block as it should have been. Torquing the head allowed the cooling galleries to re-align. Thereafter, the car stayed perfectly at half-way on the temperature gauge. If I do need to re-torque my head, what are the specs for doing so? Chris 89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com 01 X5 91 M5 98 M Roadster 93 850ci 00 M5 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 13:46:54 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E46 Airbag/seatbelt question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Passenger seat has an occupancy detector. If it doesn't see a load, it won't fire the bag, regardless of seat belt status. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > > Does anyone know the mode of operation for passenger-side airbag > (e.g., for > a 1999 E46)? If there's no passenger, does the airbag deploy in a front > impact? What about with no passenger but the seatbelt buckled? > > TIA, > Evan ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 13:39:33 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Anyone heard of intermittent stalling on E46? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Our new 330iPP is having an issue with intermittent stalling. The wife was driving and the things simply died. It restarted, but then died again. It did this a few times, although she was able to get it home and I was able to drive it to the dealers. There are no codes, so the dealer is trying to not do anything about it. Anyone ever hear of anything like this? -peterg ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
