The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 82 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: What is this? E36 Race Car Conversion Sale <FS> For sale - 14" wheels/tires for E28/E24/E12 Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) e46 cold start VANOS code Re: e46 cold start VANOS code Re: e46 cold start VANOS code Re: e46 cold start VANOS code Re: more e46 cold start woes <E28> What suspension/steering pieces to replace? Re: <E28> What suspension/steering pieces to replace? E34 heater core swap E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather M5 for Sale
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 19:00:35 -0500 From: "Bailey Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: What is this? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott, According to Circle BMW's online price book- http://www.circlebmw.com/parts/price.htm -part number 12 51 1 724 521 is an "Inj. Harness". Bailey Taylor 1995 318ti Club Sport 1997 528iA 1999 Wrangler Sahara Light Campaign Assault Vehicle ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 20:00:10 -0500 From: "Christian Bernhardt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 Race Car Conversion Sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group -- I am in the process of completing the conversion of my much loved 95 325is track/street car to a dedicated race car [J Prepared and ITS]. As a result, I have some parts and add-ons that will be sold to the highest bidder. All of the parts listed are heavy and bulky. I'll be glad to assist in the delivery using my new tow vehicle. I live in the Cincinnati area and could meet someone half-way (assuming a radius of about 240 miles). The following will be sold to the highest (reasonable) bidder. South Sport track trailer -- excellent condition TC Kline Roll-bar 2 electric seats (heated) [passenger is excellent/driver side needs repair to side bolster] 1 SRD seat with slit for submarine belt (from TC Kline) 1 set of snow tires [205/60/15] on steel wheels [2 tires are one season old and 2 tires are 2 seasons old] I can provide more details to anyone interested. Let me know if anyone needs a wiring harness. I'll be glad to donate them to a good cause for the cost of shipping if it'll help anyone with a project. Private replies only to keep the noise down on the list. Chris New Owner of a diesel tow vehicle ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 20:21:13 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <FS> For sale - 14" wheels/tires for E28/E24/E12 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FOR SALE: Five (5) 14" alloy wheels from an E28 528e. All have in various states of wear, one wheel severely curbed but will still hold a tire. Pics: http://www.robertlevinson.com/528e/images/IMG_5122.JPG http://www.robertlevinson.com/528e/images/IMG_5124.JPG All five wheels for $275 plus shipping or pickup from Hillsborough, NJ. Perfect for snow tires on an E28 535i/528e/524td, E24 635CSi/633CSi, E12 530i/528i, or even an E30 M3. If interested, contact me directly. E-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] or call 908-874-9092 during business hours. - Rob Levinson ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 01:27:58 -0500 From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >My 328i E36 squeals while the engine is running at low RPMs. Roy, First thing to check is the belt. If it has a glaze on it or if it is cracked all over, it needs replaced. Belt squeal generally occurs when the belt is either old or has been contaminated with coolant or oil (barring bad design, but something tells me tens of thousands of M50s can't be wrong). Many of the new belts have ribs that are made of EPDM (Ethylene Propylene or some such derivative of rubber) which is hydroscopic, ie absorbs water. That also means that any belt dressing you may have used on belts in the past will make the problem worse. If the belt is original from 96, then it should most definitely be replaced. Without having inspected an M50 hydraulic belt tensioner, I hazard a guess that it is [coil] spring loaded with hydraulic damping. The purpose of the automatic tensioner is to remove any 'control' from the end-user so that the belt tension doesn't damage component bearings (to protect you from yourself -- I wonder if that could be an Art Car??) It is too easy to over- or under-tension the belt. You can check its movement with a ratchet or breaker bar, but that will only tell you if it is not stuck. >The biggest help would be if anyone knew what the belt deflection should be. Since it is an automatic tensioner drive system (as opposed to a fixed center drive), any measurement of belt deflection (which I assume you to mean 'measure how far you can push span X ') is quite meaningless. The tensioner will move and allow the span to deflect according to how much force you apply to the belt. The previous two responses raise good points (potential for bearing failure, belt routing) but since you said it doesn't squeal all the time, I would say that it is not a bearing issue. When you replace the belt, you can inspect the pulleys/bearings for any sign of dirt intrusion or play and replace as necessary. The tensioner may be bad, but I'd first check the belt. Andy --> designs belt drives for a living 88 iX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 08:32:31 -0500 From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: e46 cold start VANOS code Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> BMW aficionados, I'm trying to help out a friend and I have a question for the experts. Car: 2000 328i (unknown mileage, but out of warranty) History: none available (recently purchased lease car). Recent 'Jiffy Lube' oil change with unknown oil viscosity. Don't bust my balls on this part, I've already scolded them! Complaint: On cold start, code for cam timing comes on. Engine idle speed is too slow. Symptom goes away after engine warm up and vehicle runs "fine". First noted during recent cold ambient temps (~0 degrees F). I seem to remember something about this, but I can't recall where. Anyone? All ideas/replies appreciated. Thanks, Chet Dawes [EMAIL PROTECTED] **************************************************************************************** Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 08:44:22 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: e46 cold start VANOS code Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Chet wrote: > History: none available (recently purchased lease car). call the dealer. assuming the car was a BMW FS lease I'm sure it was dealer serviced & consequently the records should be available within the system, even if you don't get to the servicing dealer. BMW has to track warranty repairs centrally, so the ability to do this has to be there, right ? if there was a previous history of repair on the part involved you might have somewhere to start. you note the car is out of warranty, but earlier warranty (or after warranty stuff done at the dealer) should all be available AFAIK. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 09:43:37 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: e46 cold start VANOS code Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sounds like a VaNoS problem. Change oil to say 0W-40 or 0W-30 synthetic and see if the condition improves. Gary Derian > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > BMW aficionados, > I'm trying to help out a friend and I have a question for the experts. > Car: 2000 328i (unknown mileage, but out of warranty) > > History: none available (recently purchased lease car). Recent 'Jiffy > Lube' oil change with unknown oil viscosity. Don't bust my balls on > this part, I've already scolded them! > > Complaint: On cold start, code for cam timing comes on. Engine idle > speed is too slow. Symptom goes away after engine warm up and vehicle > runs "fine". First noted during recent cold ambient temps (~0 degrees > F). > > I seem to remember something about this, but I can't recall where. > Anyone? All ideas/replies appreciated. > > Thanks, > Chet Dawes > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > **************************************************************************** ************ > > Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. > > **************************************************************************** ************ > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 09:53:35 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: e46 cold start VANOS code Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sounds like the oil is too think. Probably some cheap junk Kendall 30W or some such. First thing to do is drain the oil and replace it with a quality synthetic of 10W30 or thinner viscosity in these temps. Brett Anderson KMS -----Original Message----- BMW aficionados, I'm trying to help out a friend and I have a question for the experts. Car: 2000 328i (unknown mileage, but out of warranty) History: none available (recently purchased lease car). Recent 'Jiffy Lube' oil change with unknown oil viscosity. Don't bust my balls on this part, I've already scolded them! Complaint: On cold start, code for cam timing comes on. Engine idle speed is too slow. Symptom goes away after engine warm up and vehicle runs "fine". First noted during recent cold ambient temps (~0 degrees F). Thanks, Chet Dawes ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 08:12:13 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: more e46 cold start woes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A co-worker has a 2004 E46 330Ci. Yesterday he complained about the car lurching under acceleration from a dead stop when it's cold. He says it's not his clutch work, but it feels like it's related to a delay in throttle response. It's a 6spd. I vaguely remember this problem being discussed before on this list. Marco __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 09:21:41 -0600 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E28> What suspension/steering pieces to replace? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For the New Year, I want to work on getting the M5 back into shape (just put on a new brake bomb and pressure switches - no more ATF dripping on to the garage floor!) and the suspension is next on my list. It just feels "loose" all over and I'm sure after 16 years and 113k there are parts galore to replace. It has the stock springs and SLS (Boge struts up front have about 20k on them). The steering is getting wobbly, so I know it needs something there (thrust arm bushings?). What parts in the rear should I replace? I'm not track-prepping it; just trying to get it back to its factory feel. Thanks Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 10:46:25 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E28> What suspension/steering pieces to replace? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Crossmember to frame bushings, trailing arm to crossmember bushings, dog bones. Gary Derian > know it needs something there (thrust arm bushings?). What parts in the > rear should I replace? I'm not track-prepping it; just trying to get it > back to its factory feel. > > Thanks > Malcolm > '88 M5 > '98 328i ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 10:35:24 -0600 From: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUCDigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E34 heater core swap Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello, Car: '89 535i, 5spd. I am finally fed up with the sweet smell of antifreeze and fog at the base of my windshield. I plan on attempting to swap the heater core in the next few days. I have a new heater core, heater core pipe assembly, and the o-rings. I also have the help of the attached URL: http://www.homeofsbc.com/Fixes/Heater/heater.htm Has anyone done this job recently that can share any tips, or things to look out for? I expect it will take some time to complete but any help to make it go faster/smother would be appreciated. TIA. Andrew Harkonen ------------------------------ Date: 7 Jan 2004 18:25:33 -0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This is my first winter with my M50 E34 touring ('94). With the temps below 20F the temp gauge is not reaching the midpoint - it's generally settling in 1 division below that (1/4 tank?). Should this car be warming up better than that? Do I need to put a thermostat on my shopping list? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 10:35:38 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> yes and yes. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 10:26 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] This is my first winter with my M50 E34 touring ('94). With the temps below 20F the temp gauge is not reaching the midpoint - it's generally settling in 1 division below that (1/4 tank?). Should this car be warming up better than that? Do I need to put a thermostat on my shopping list? __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 14:47:35 -0800 From: Paul Dunlevy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: M5 for Sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My E34 M5 is looking for a new home. It has been replaced by a younger steed. The link for the details is at http://betasystemsinc.com/m5.htm. ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
