The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 98 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [E36] Bent valves UUC shifter sloppy, e36 Re: UUC shifter sloppy, e36 Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Re: E-bay Xenon Bulbs for E36 Re: E-bay Xenon Bulbs for E36 e28 535i Cooling issues Re: [E36] Bent valves Re: [E36] Bent valves 04-04-04 - A Gathering of 2002s in Nashville ///M RGB? Re: ///M RGB? Re: ///M RGB? Code help on sisters car
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:25:59 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E36] Bent valves Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -----Original Message----- >From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Jan 21, 2004 9:39 AM >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: [UUC] [E36] Bent valves > >The usual cause of bent valves in the E36 is mechanical over-revving, and is >not uncommon in the M3. However this is less likely in a 325 due to its >lower rev limit. And maybe lower valve lift? > >In your case I'd suspect that the cam timing was slightly off after >reassembly. I was under the impression that an overrev resulting in bent valves was due to a 5th to 2nd mistake on a downshift (AKA "the money shift"), in which case the 325 having a lower rev limit is irrelevant. Of course everyone should have a UUC shifter which greatly reduces the possibility of such a mis-shift! If it is indeed possible to overrev either the M3 or 325 engine in neutral or accelerating under power to the point of bending valves, I'd suggest that the rev limiter isn't very well designed (to put it mildly). Brian '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:40:08 -0500 (EST) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: UUC shifter sloppy, e36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, Ok, so my fiancee's '93 325is has some sort of UUC shifter. Not sure what model/options/etc. as it came with the car. The shifter, when in gear, moves side to side around an inch or so. This is annoying, to say the least. It also shifts reasonably hard in comparison to other cars I'm familier with (but not so hard that I think for sure something is broken or whatever) Is there a common fix for this stuff? I was figuring on changing the tranny oil to try and help the slight "shift reluctance". How about the shifter slop? Is there an accepted fix for that? Looking at photos of UUC shifters, it also seems like the shifter handle isn't just a solid piece of of metal, but has some sorta vibration reducer / height adjuster or something? Is this area a cause for reduced feel? Slight road vibration in the shifter (like, you can feel it with your hand on the shifter but there isn't any buzzing or whatever otherwise) would be totally fine with me. Thanks! Mark ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:33:03 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: UUC shifter sloppy, e36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Mark, Please call us directly to discuss this - 908-874-9092. We need to determine exactly which generation of UUC shifter you have. Note that as much as 3/4" in either direction of side-to-side movement is normal, that's the amount of play there is within the transmission itself. - Rob Levinson UUC Motorwerks * http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Andy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [UUC] UUC shifter sloppy, e36 > Ok, so my fiancee's '93 325is has some sort of UUC shifter. Not sure what > model/options/etc. as it came with the car. > The shifter, when in gear, moves side to side around an inch or so. This > is annoying, to say the least. It also shifts reasonably hard in > comparison to other cars I'm familier with (but not so hard that I think > for sure something is broken or whatever) > Mark ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:48:44 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> yes you're supposed to have an underbody tray. Only real difference I noticed running without one on a 325is was that there was more cabin noise without it. It serves to smooth airflow under the car. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Andy Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 7:22 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Exploding tensioner pulleys Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Howdy, On Wed, 21 Jan 2004, Jim Bassett wrote: > >I'll be looking at the car under some light tonight to assess the damage > >and figure out what parts to order, but just figured I'd post here to see > >if this is a common failure, etc. I've never exploded a tensioner pulley > >before! :-) > > Me either, but I just recently replaced both the tensioner and idler > pulleys on the M3 (139K miles) due to the noise they were making. > > Once removed, if was fairly easy to tell they were all dried out inside. > Chances are they might have suffered the same fate as your's if they hadn't > started making noise, calling attention to themselves :-) Well, at least I'm not the only one with tensioner issues... :-) Had a chance to look at the car last night. Its about what I'd seen in the parking lot after it happened... Both tensioner pulleys are destroyed. Fan blades look fine (I was wondering if they'd have been damaged by exploding bits of pulley), A/C, PS, Alt, and Water pump pulleys all spin free and feel fine. The plastic radiator shroud was knocked slightly out of place though. Looks like we can just finese it back into place, perhaps with some epoxy or zip ties if some mounting tabs have broken or something. Shouldn't be a big deal. One question though... My friend (an actual mechanic, vs. me who just plays one on weekends :-) is used to seeing a plastic underbody panel just aft of the radiator and under the fan/belt area on the BMWs he's worked on (which isn't that many). We were wondering if there's supposed to be an underbody panel there on a '93 325? Anyone know? Thanks! Mark __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:31:22 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Exploding tensioner pulleys Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> We were wondering if there's supposed to be an >> underbody panel there on a '93 325? > yes you're supposed to have an underbody tray. Only real difference I > noticed running without one on a 325is was that there was more cabin > noise without it. It serves to smooth airflow under the car. But there are actually different E36 underbody trays, depending on what BMWs your mechanic has worked on. AFAIK, the E36 M3 coupes have the full-depth, flat undertray (the one that always needs to get replaced). "Regular" E36s and E36 M3 sedans have a shorter, squarer undertray. It only extends as far back as the radiator. That's not to say that the full-depth one (or it's aftermaket replacement from JT Designs: http://store.yahoo.com/jtdesigns/body.html) can't be retro-fitted. I'm planning on installing one on the E36 325 race car for added protection. I've got photos of the short, square undertray on my M3 that I can post tonight, if anyone wants to see what it looks like. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 ------------------------------ Date: 21 Jan 2004 16:13:50 -0000 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E-bay Xenon Bulbs for E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you really want Xenon bulbs, the only ones worth looking at in my opinion are the PIAA's. They are considerably brighter than any other bulb I've used (without resorting to much higher wattage), and have a 1 year warranty for replacement (if they blow, just return 'em). I have them in all of my cars and have been very happy. For those in the Bay Area, Navid Kahangi sells them at his shop in San Jose (Extreme Performance) and he stocks every fitment. he's also got the rest of the PIAA line there as well. -peter*g ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 13:54:11 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E-bay Xenon Bulbs for E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 1/21/04 1:22 PM, Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > No, don't get these. I don't have personal experience > with these types of bulbs, but I hear they have lower > light output compared to stock. Even up to a point > where it is dangerous. Maybe you'll notice out on the > streets where someone is driving with noticably bluer > headlights. If you try to look at the light they are > projecting down the road, you'll might notice it is > just not lighting up what's ahead. Normal incandescent bulbs - i.e. those that generate light by heating a filament, Edison style - whether filled with krypton, xenon or phlogiston, don't have much blue content in their spectrum. Any such bulb that appears more blue achieves that result by filtering out some part of the yellow content to shift the spectral balance. And filtering out means removing, as in not as much useful light left. So in order to have equal light output, a blue incandescent bulb needs higher wattage, which equals more heat and usually shorter life. Alternatively, for similar wattage a blue bulb puts out less light. On top of that, the human eye isn't as sensitive to light at the blue end of the spectrum. So other than trying to induce the credulous think you've sprung for HID lights when you haven't, I really can't see any point to blue bulbs. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 18:20:52 -0800 From: Avinash Heroor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: e28 535i Cooling issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My '85 535i which was purchased recently with 178K miles started to overheat yesterday. I managed to turn off the engine before overheating. I checked that the upper radiator hose was hot -- Bentley suggests this as a quick thermostat check. The aux electric fan was not running, jumpering the connectors to the switches makes the fan run (both low and high speed). However, with the high speed jumpered and the fan running, (engine was running too) the coolant temp showed no signs of dropping. I'm curious whether the following is a good way to proceed. a) Replace temp switches and see if overheat re-occurs. b) Do more than a cursory check on thermostat, replace if necessary c) Replace radiator if (a) and (b) fail. Thanks, Avi. '85 535i 178K ex-'89 318i ex-'92 325i '00 R1150GS 9K -- I need to ride more! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 20:33:48 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E36] Bent valves Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 07:25 AM 1/21/04, Brian Daley talked about: >I was under the impression that an overrev resulting in bent valves was >due to a 5th to 2nd mistake on a downshift (AKA "the money shift"), While that's the most common, you can overrev the motor by going into ANY wrong gear. > in which case the 325 having a lower rev limit is irrelevant. Of course > everyone should have a UUC shifter which greatly reduces the possibility > of such a mis-shift! But doesn't eliminate it :-) Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - many track miles, never overrevved 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - overreved by going 4th to 1st - ouch! - on 3rd lap of ownership (w/shortshifter) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 02:19:42 -0800 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E36] Bent valves Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> re: Bent Valves: If you need to tear down the E36 head as a result from suffering bent valves, one tip is to shave the head to factory spec. On E36 that is .018". The increased compression will gain you at least a couple of pounds of torque. You can also shim the valve springs by a millimeter to preload them better. The latest style //M3 exhaust valves have concentric circles machined in the bottom. The original '97 valves were flat. Don't forget to replace the worn wiggly stock transmission mounts with UUC trans mounts and reinforcing cups. Barry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 23:29:26 -0600 From: "David Yando" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 04-04-04 - A Gathering of 2002s in Nashville Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, I know there are some 2002 owners (that's the car, not the year!) on the digest who may not read some of the '02 boards, so I'll post this here. Thanks for the bandwidth! David Yando '74 2002, '90 M3, '94 325ic (w/ new pulleys and tensioners as of Thanksgiving Eve) ____________________________________________________________________________ __________________________ In the spirit of the 02-02-02 gathering at the Zentrum in South Carolina we would like to announce another 2002 owner gathering in Nashville, Tennessee on 04-04-04. "O2-Squared" is the official title and square tails will be the guests of honor, but of course roundies are welcome also. There will be a meet and greet at a Nashville watering hole on Friday night and possibly a dinner Saturday night if there is enough interest. Saturday will be a show/swap meet/museum tour at the Lane Motor Museum. See www.lanemotormuseum.org for details on the museum. Additionally, the Old Hickory Chapter BMW CCA will host a rally/tour over some fabulous Tennessee back roads Sunday morning. The rally will end early enough so that everyone has time to drive home that evening. Or if you like to drive around and over cones, the local SCCA chapter will have an autocross in the parking lot of the Nashville Super Speedway. See www.TRSCCA.com for more details. There is no registration fee, but we would like everyone to email an RSVP by March 31st, so that we have some idea on the number of 2002's that we will need to accommodate and everyone that RSVPs will have a dash plaque reserved for them. Since there is no registration and we have a budget of zero we will not have goodie bags unless someone gives them to us, same goes for door prizes. So if anyone wants to print some t-shirts and try to sell them at the gathering we wouldn't mind, same goes for stickers, posters, etcetera although we are providing the dash plaques. We will be putting together a list of recommended hotel/motels and restaurant/bars to distribute via email to all those who RSVP. Please send responses to [EMAIL PROTECTED] NOT to the museum. Pertinent information to RSVP: I am attending with ___ people Attending dinner with ___people Participating in the rally (Y/N)___ Prefer to tour only (Y/N)____ Bringing items for a swap meet (Y/N)____ Where are you driving from? Thanks for the bandwidth, James Green and David Yando ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 01:51:48 -0700 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: ///M RGB? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Keywords: BMW I'm looking for RGB values (browser safe is better, as described in http://www.w3.org/MarkUp/Guide/Style.html) for the ///M stripes. Any suggestions? Thanks! -- Bob Sutterfield '9? E36 ///M3 in the hunt '88 E28 535iS http://m535i.org #154 IHR FUNF '93 T4 EV MV Weekender BELUGA BMWCCA #169277 Rocky Mountain Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:03:33 +0200 From: "Pavel Tcholakov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: ///M RGB? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Keywords: BMW Try opening a photo of the ///M badge in PhotoShop or similar application and use the "colour pickup" tool - that will give you the values in the hex format suitable for the web :-) Cheers, Pavel -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Sutterfield Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 10:52 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] ///M RGB? I'm looking for RGB values (browser safe is better, as described in http://www.w3.org/MarkUp/Guide/Style.html) for the ///M stripes. Any suggestions? Thanks! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 05:35:54 -0800 From: "Jason Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: ///M RGB? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Keywords: BMW I have an email saved from another list that indicates the M colors are: Blue: Pantone Process Blue Purple: Pantone 268 Red: Pantone Warm Red I did a quick sample on a couple of M logos that I have pictures of and came up with the below values. Both the logo shots I have fade from a light shade to a a darker shade, so these values aren't "correct", but are close. A search on the above names may yield more accurate results. Blue: #336699 or #0099FF Purple: #333366 or #333399 Red: #CC3300 or #CC3333 Hope that helps some. If you get "real" values I'd be curious to know them. Jason -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bob Sutterfield Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 12:52 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] ///M RGB? Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm looking for RGB values (browser safe is better, as described in http://www.w3.org/MarkUp/Guide/Style.html) for the ///M stripes. Any suggestions? Thanks! -- Bob Sutterfield '9? E36 ///M3 in the hunt '88 E28 535iS http://m535i.org #154 IHR FUNF '93 T4 EV MV Weekender BELUGA BMWCCA #169277 Rocky Mountain Chapter 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 07:35:27 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Code help on sisters car Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yes, my parents bought my little sister a BMW, and no they did not consult with me first. So she got a 1994 318 i, Automatic, with 100K miles. It is not a bad little car, though I would have stayed clear of the automatic and four doors. Plus it was an e-bay purchase. Very clean inside and out, good leather, etc. Anyway while resetting her oil lights I got two random fault codes, both of which cleared out. The first one to come up was - 36, which is Control Unit Supply Any ideas on this??? The next one after the "36" was cleared was - C9 - Emission (lambda) control Any ideas on this??? Two other things - first the lights slightly dim and flicker. I'm guessing this is the alternator going bad, or battery? And the little idiot light for the transmission lights up on occasion (gear with a " ! " in the middle). Having only manuals myself - I don't know about this one? Phil '98 318 Ti '95 325 Ti, Club Sport ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
