The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 1 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Tire Mounting Re: Tire Mounting Re: Tire Mounting Re: Tire Mounting Re: Issuance of Thanks Re: Disappearing coolant.. Re: Disappearing coolant.. Re: Friends E36 M3 Re: Friends E36 M3 Re: Friends E36 M3 - Sorry... Me Stupid! Re: Friends E36 M3 Re: Tire Mounting Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) X5 vs. Audi Allroad Re: X5 vs. Audi Allroad
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 15:24:48 -0500 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Tire Mounting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> or find a few other people to go in on a Lease of a tire changer. Last time I checked, leasing a hunter etc was not that much, $130 a month IIRC. Mounting 17's with short sidewalls is going to be a bear. I have seen 'professionals' waste a few hours trying to mount 2 tires. With most shops being able to do it in a matter of minutes. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'M3SIG'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "'UUCDigest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 2:47 PM Subject: [UUC] Tire Mounting > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Everyone, > > I had some questions about mounting tires, specifically track tires. See, > me & this other fellow came to the conclusion that we could split the cost > of some basic stuff, like a static float balancer & maybe some special pry > bars & save about $50 per person per event for mounting & flipping tires. > > I'm sure someone has tried this. We tried deflating a tire & breaking it > off the bead (15" victo) & were somewhat unsuccessful (actually, it was cold > out & we weren't really that interested at the particular time). In the > other guy's case we're looking at 315/35-17's. I'm sure that since we've > been able to properly maintain & even do some extensive work on an E30 M3 & > Z06 (now Z28) that this isn't above our engineering skills. > > Anyway, does anyone have a list of "must haves" to do this? I.e. things we > might not think of like the bead adheasive. Maybe some tips for actually > getting these on & off would be groovy too. > > Thanks in advance, > Lee > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 12:53:10 -0800 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Tire Mounting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Or you could probably buy a tire changer off of ebay for around 10 months of that lease... Or, maybe you can make an estimate of the number of tires you and your buddy will need mounted and balanced, and work out some sort of a discount package deal with a tire shop. Maybe throw in some sort of sticker deal where you publicize his services at all of your track events for a price break. But I agree - changing a low profile tire, especially ones with stiff sidewalls like R tires, is not going to be easy. Especially if you try to do it by hand. Even worse is if you have them on wheels that you don't want to scratch. I've had tire shops take hours to mount tires, and scratch the heck out of my rims, even on a top-of-the-line Hunter machine... Jim Ochi At 12:24 PM 1/27/2004, Michael Lawrence wrote: >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >or find a few other people to go in on a Lease of a tire changer. Last time >I checked, leasing a hunter etc was not that much, $130 a month IIRC. >Mounting 17's with short sidewalls is going to be a bear. I have seen >'professionals' waste a few hours trying to mount 2 tires. With most shops >being able to do it in a matter of minutes. > >Mike >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "'M3SIG'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "'UUCDigest'" ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 2:47 PM >Subject: [UUC] Tire Mounting > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > Everyone, > > > > I had some questions about mounting tires, specifically track tires. See, > > me & this other fellow came to the conclusion that we could split the cost > > of some basic stuff, like a static float balancer & maybe some special pry > > bars & save about $50 per person per event for mounting & flipping tires. > > > > I'm sure someone has tried this. We tried deflating a tire & breaking it > > off the bead (15" victo) & were somewhat unsuccessful (actually, it was >cold > > out & we weren't really that interested at the particular time). In the > > other guy's case we're looking at 315/35-17's. I'm sure that since we've > > been able to properly maintain & even do some extensive work on an E30 M3 >& > > Z06 (now Z28) that this isn't above our engineering skills. > > > > Anyway, does anyone have a list of "must haves" to do this? I.e. things >we > > might not think of like the bead adheasive. Maybe some tips for actually > > getting these on & off would be groovy too. > > > > Thanks in advance, > > Lee > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 16:19:16 -0500 From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Tire Mounting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Lee, Good luck doing it manually! The 315/35-17s will be a major b*tch. I have them on all four corners of my Vette, and some shops have a hard time using decent equiptment. I pay less than $40 to mount/balance four wheels/tires at a local independant shop in Douglasville. He works, I watch. I know of one other shop that might let you do the work, and charge you nothing. If interested, email me privately. -Tom >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 01/27/04 02:47PM >>> Everyone, I had some questions about mounting tires, specifically track tires. See, me & this other fellow came to the conclusion that we could split the cost of some basic stuff, like a static float balancer & maybe some special pry bars & save about $50 per person per event for mounting & flipping tires. I'm sure someone has tried this. We tried deflating a tire & breaking it off the bead (15" victo) & were somewhat unsuccessful (actually, it was cold out & we weren't really that interested at the particular time). In the other guy's case we're looking at 315/35-17's. I'm sure that since we've been able to properly maintain & even do some extensive work on an E30 M3 & Z06 (now Z28) that this isn't above our engineering skills. Anyway, does anyone have a list of "must haves" to do this? I.e. things we might not think of like the bead adheasive. Maybe some tips for actually getting these on & off would be groovy too. Thanks in advance, Lee ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 15:28:32 -0500 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Tire Mounting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 15:20:03 -0800 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "'M3SIG'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, > "'UUCDigest'" > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Tire Mounting >Message-ID: ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Everyone, > >I had some questions about mounting tires, specifically track tires. See, >me & this other fellow came to the conclusion that we could split the cost >of some basic stuff, like a static float balancer & maybe some special pry >bars & save about $50 per person per event for mounting & flipping tires. > >I'm sure someone has tried this. We tried deflating a tire & breaking it >off the bead (15" victo) & were somewhat unsuccessful (actually, it was cold >out & we weren't really that interested at the particular time). In the >other guy's case we're looking at 315/35-17's. I'm sure that since we've >been able to properly maintain & even do some extensive work on an E30 M3 & >Z06 (now Z28) that this isn't above our engineering skills. > >Anyway, does anyone have a list of "must haves" to do this? I.e. things we >might not think of like the bead adheasive. Maybe some tips for actually >getting these on & off would be groovy too. > >Thanks in advance, >Lee > This is a save a buck, risk your life idea. The bead of the tire is probably the most important safety feature of the tire. It's what keeps the tire from deflating, and represents the contact point of the tire to the rim. Using nothing but pry bars to dismount a tire is a good way to make certain that you'll damage one or more of the tire beads. Then, as you're tooling down the track at triple digits speeds, you'll have a tire blowout and die. A better idea is to get a group of buddies together and invest in an inexpensive used tire changer machine. I see them advertised in the local paper all the time, and there are many websites where used automotive equipment is available for sale. When your racing days are over, sell the changer. In the meantime, don't risk your life with the possibility of racing on damaged tires. _________________________________________________________________________ Live, laugh, and chat with friends about BMWs, Porsches, Jaguars and the new MINI at The World's Largest Auto Enthusiast Site http://www.roadfly.org/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 14:01:11 -0800 (PST) From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Issuance of Thanks Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yup, still in Cajun country. Cold to most of you yanks is probably 10 degrees. Cold for us down here is 45 degrees. I usually wear long sleeves in anything below 60, but that's probably just because I'm cold natured. . . or because I'm 6'0" 140lbs. :-) Brad --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > Brad, > > I thought you were in Cajun country? It's cold a few > hours "South" of > you....? > > Boy that East coast winter must be much worse than I > thought. > > It is a great community. > > -Kevin __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 14:21:29 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Disappearing coolant.. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jesse, besides everyone else's thermostat housing tip, there are some other possibilities, but first let's rule out your heater core. In the engine compartment, find the heater in and out hoses. Disconnect them, and jury-rig them together. Use fittings from Home Depot or your favorite home improvement store. This bypasses the heater core. Now drive around (freezing your butt off) for a few days and see if the coolant level drops. If it does, the heater core is not the problem, and you can hook it back up. The other possibilities are 1) a blown head gasket or B) worst case, a cracked head or block that is allowing coolant into the combustion chamber(s). This would be evident by white smoke out the exhaust, or possibly coolant residue inside the tailpipes. You would not see this in the oil, but spark plug condition should give it away. I had this problem once on a Chevy 305 V8. I literally warmed up the engine and watched for leaks for an hour. None. Fluids were not mixing. But the coolant level dropped. The inside of the tailpipe was Prestone green. Oops! HTH, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 15:01:01 -0500 >From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Disappearing coolant.. >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Hello list, > >I'm hoping that someone out there has gone though what I'm about to describe and >could lend some advice. > >I'm having some issues with my 93 325i (has 148K miles) and disappearing >coolant. For the last month or so, I've noticed that my car is loosing coolant. >It gets down to about the bottom of the expansion tank, I fill it up to the Fill >line, and then 3-5 days go by and the its back down to the bottom of the >expansion tank. > >But, I can't seem to find where the coolant is coming out of. The car doesn't >over heat, I don't see any coolant on the ground, I don't see any water in the >oil (and vice versa), I don't see any trail of dried coolant on the radiator >(the radiator was replaced at about 100K miles), and I replaced the water pump >(metal impeller) and factory plastic thermostat housing with the metal one about >5 months ago (since it just started happening about a month ago, I don't believe >this is it). > >I do know that my coolant level sensor has gone bad, and keeps throwing the >check radiator error message on the OBC, even when the coolant is at the full >mark. Could the coolant be leaking out of the sensor? I don't see how, but I >guess it is possible. This is something I plan on fixing sometime in the next >month. > >One more possibility is that the heater core has started leaking. How often do >these fail? I don't smell any coolant inside when the heater is on, so I am >trying to rule that out. I'm hoping its not the heater core because to replace >the core you need to take out the whole dashboard, and its nothing I want to do >with these 5 degree temps, even in my garage. > >Thanks for any help. > >---------------------- >Jesse Chamberlain >-99 M3 >-93 325i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 14:30:55 -0800 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Disappearing coolant.. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> One other possibility that no one has mentioned is a bad radiator (actually coolant recovery tank) cap. Some E36s had problems with the cap going out of round, thus not sealing tightly. Might want to borrow a cap for a few days and see. Jim Ochi At 02:21 PM 1/27/2004, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >Jesse, besides everyone else's thermostat housing tip, there are some other >possibilities, but first let's rule out your heater core. In the engine >compartment, find the heater in and out hoses. Disconnect them, and >jury-rig them together. Use fittings from Home Depot or your favorite home >improvement store. This bypasses the heater core. Now drive around >(freezing your butt off) for a few days and see if the coolant level drops. >If it does, the heater core is not the problem, and you can hook it back >up. > >The other possibilities are 1) a blown head gasket or B) worst case, a >cracked head or block that is allowing coolant into the combustion >chamber(s). This would be evident by white smoke out the exhaust, or >possibly coolant residue inside the tailpipes. You would not see this in >the oil, but spark plug condition should give it away. I had this problem >once on a Chevy 305 V8. I literally warmed up the engine and watched for >leaks for an hour. None. Fluids were not mixing. But the coolant level >dropped. The inside of the tailpipe was Prestone green. Oops! > >HTH, > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA > > >Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 15:01:01 -0500 > >From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: Disappearing coolant.. > >Message-ID: ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >Hello list, > > > >I'm hoping that someone out there has gone though what I'm about to >describe and > >could lend some advice. > > > >I'm having some issues with my 93 325i (has 148K miles) and disappearing > >coolant. For the last month or so, I've noticed that my car is loosing >coolant. > >It gets down to about the bottom of the expansion tank, I fill it up to >the Fill > >line, and then 3-5 days go by and the its back down to the bottom of the > >expansion tank. > > > >But, I can't seem to find where the coolant is coming out of. The car >doesn't > >over heat, I don't see any coolant on the ground, I don't see any water in >the > >oil (and vice versa), I don't see any trail of dried coolant on the >radiator > >(the radiator was replaced at about 100K miles), and I replaced the water >pump > >(metal impeller) and factory plastic thermostat housing with the metal one >about > >5 months ago (since it just started happening about a month ago, I don't >believe > >this is it). > > > >I do know that my coolant level sensor has gone bad, and keeps throwing >the > >check radiator error message on the OBC, even when the coolant is at the >full > >mark. Could the coolant be leaking out of the sensor? I don't see how, >but I > >guess it is possible. This is something I plan on fixing sometime in the >next > >month. > > > >One more possibility is that the heater core has started leaking. How >often do > >these fail? I don't smell any coolant inside when the heater is on, so I >am > >trying to rule that out. I'm hoping its not the heater core because to >replace > >the core you need to take out the whole dashboard, and its nothing I want >to do > >with these 5 degree temps, even in my garage. > > > >Thanks for any help. > > > >---------------------- > >Jesse Chamberlain > >-99 M3 > >-93 325i > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 15:19:07 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Friends E36 M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gents, I have a friend with a '98 M3 that is having problems getting to dealer to acknowledge a problem of getting 1st gear engagement (5spd). At full stop, engine running after coming out of neutral it is often difficult to engage. The car is at 60k miles and will soon come out of warranty and the dealer is saying there is no problem even though the service writer acknowledges experiencing it. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:54:13 -0500 From: "Dave Kelley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Friends E36 M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Why don't you tell him what search term to use that will return the desired results. Or is he supposed to spend hours scouring the archives. I'm sorry, but replies like this are worse than no reply at all. > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Gents, > > I have a friend with a '98 M3 that is having problems getting to > dealer to acknowledge a problem of getting 1st gear engagement (5spd). > At full stop, engine running after coming out of neutral it is often > difficult to engage. The car is at 60k miles and will soon come out of > warranty and the dealer is saying there is no problem even though the > service writer acknowledges experiencing it. > > -Kevin > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 22:12:24 -0500 From: "Dave Kelley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Friends E36 M3 - Sorry... Me Stupid! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sorry, I didn't realize it was a "list" message saying to search the archives. Don't give me any more beer. > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Why don't you tell him what search term to use that will return the > desired results. Or is he supposed to spend hours scouring the > archives. > > I'm sorry, but replies like this are worse than no reply at all. > > > Search the > > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > Gents, > > > > I have a friend with a '98 M3 that is having problems getting to > > dealer to acknowledge a problem of getting 1st gear engagement > > (5spd). At full stop, engine running after coming out of neutral it > > is often difficult to engage. The car is at 60k miles and will soon > > come out of warranty and the dealer is saying there is no problem > > even though the service writer acknowledges experiencing it. > > > > -Kevin > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:51:32 -0600 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Friends E36 M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This thread mentions some possible issues and a service bulletin that might help your friend: http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWText/technical/GearboxGearSelec tProb.html Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 5:19 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Friends E36 M3 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Gents, I have a friend with a '98 M3 that is having problems getting to dealer to acknowledge a problem of getting 1st gear engagement (5spd). At full stop, engine running after coming out of neutral it is often difficult to engage. The car is at 60k miles and will soon come out of warranty and the dealer is saying there is no problem even though the service writer acknowledges experiencing it. -Kevin ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 19:06:36 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Tire Mounting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You will not be able to mount low profile tires with tire irons. Get a good tire machine and learn how to use it. Bead adhesive? That stuff is bead lubricant. You can use Murphy's oil soap for that. Gary Derian > Everyone, > > I had some questions about mounting tires, specifically track tires. See, > me & this other fellow came to the conclusion that we could split the cost > of some basic stuff, like a static float balancer & maybe some special pry > bars & save about $50 per person per event for mounting & flipping tires. > > I'm sure someone has tried this. We tried deflating a tire & breaking it > off the bead (15" victo) & were somewhat unsuccessful (actually, it was cold > out & we weren't really that interested at the particular time). In the > other guy's case we're looking at 315/35-17's. I'm sure that since we've > been able to properly maintain & even do some extensive work on an E30 M3 & > Z06 (now Z28) that this isn't above our engineering skills. > > Anyway, does anyone have a list of "must haves" to do this? I.e. things we > might not think of like the bead adheasive. Maybe some tips for actually > getting these on & off would be groovy too. > > Thanks in advance, > Lee ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 16:36:28 -0800 From: John Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> The 7 Series belt line is straight, more like car designs from the >> 1930's, Mr. Bangle said. And the E39's wasn't? Or that of most BMW sedans? Frankly, the E65 looks like a big E39 from wheelwell to wheelwell. It's just the nose and tail that are Bungled. Personally, the only part of the rear I really dislike is the cheap taillight strips across the rear. I don't even mind the raised trunklid, which is really just a cleaner version of what Volvo did on the S80 (amazing to think that lump won some kind of Euro design award when it was introduced.) It's the E65's front end that's the grotesque part. That, and the fact that Mercedes will sell you 200 more HP. IMO in that class there's only three lines that matter. The LS430 is painless, the Jag XJ is personal, and the S55 and S600 are monsters. Nothing else matters, certainly not those silly new big Audis and VWs with the rear seat cushion on the floor. John. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 21:23:23 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: X5 vs. Audi Allroad Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Contemplating two different general utility and household "family" vehicles. Audi Allroad 2.7 and BMW X5 4.4. Any thoughts from people that have BTDT? Marc Plante E36 325i, 218k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 19:54:20 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: X5 vs. Audi Allroad Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Marc, I hear the new Audi Allroads will have a V8. I had a 2.7L twin turbo S4 (same engine setup as the Allroad) and had the turbos go out after 10K miles. I had to fight for months to get Audi to replace them under warranty. I'm not a fan of the V6/2xturbo combo. Now the V8 seems like a different story. It is already on Audi's web page. his is a much better handling car than the X5 I'm told. John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S (Quaife Diff Next) '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 6:23 PM Subject: [UUC] X5 vs. Audi Allroad > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Contemplating two different general utility and household "family" vehicles. Audi Allroad 2.7 and > BMW X5 4.4. > > Any thoughts from people that have BTDT? > > Marc Plante > E36 325i, 218k > Vienna, VA > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
