The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 1 : Issue 86 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there?
Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there?
Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there?
Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there?
Re: Bimmerparsts and Replacementautoparts
MIG Welder
Genuine Motorsport 3.0 CSL spoiler for sale
Not my day... (was E30 fuel woes)
OBD Codes P1174/P1175 on an 1997 E39 540i
OBD Codes P1174/P1175 on an 1997 E39 540i
M3-add cruise control
Re: MIG Welder
Re: MIG Welder
[FS] E30 M steering wheel
e30 Steering rack won't come out!!!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 11:51:12 -0500
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I guess the title says it all.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 12:17:41 -0500
From: "Dean Boucouras" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
They may there to hold in the emergency reflector/triangle - this item is
usually not included in US Vehicles
Dean
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 12:18:33 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
The warning triangle that's not DOT approved, therefore not shipped with the
car from Germany.
Brett Anderson
KMS
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Karl Zemlin
I guess the title says it all.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 12:42:16 -0500
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Ahh - now that you mention that, I think I saw that in the manual ... And
then forgot about it.
Thanks.
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
The warning triangle that's not DOT approved, therefore not shipped with the
car from Germany.
Brett Anderson
KMS
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 12:59:22 -0500
From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bimmerparsts and Replacementautoparts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
The internic whois for each. Looks like two different companies. A lot of these on
line parts suppliers buy the same e-commerce package and put it up with no
modification so they all look like the same company.
Bill Matthews
Hockessin DE
00 M Geeze
some Volvos
other cars
whois -h whois.crsnic.net bimmerparts.com
Registrant:
Zygmunt Moters (BIMMERPARTS-DOM)
70 Green Street.
Doylestown, PA 18901
US
Domain Name: BIMMERPARTS.COM
Administrative Contact:
MUZYLOWSKI, CHRIS (WEJPPIUHWI) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
ZYGMUNT MOTORS
70 GREEN ST
DOYLESTOWN, PA 18901
US
(215) 348-3121 fax: (215) 348-7177
Technical Contact:
Birnholz, Michael (MBN509) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
iBusiness
757 SE 17th Street
Suite 1012
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33316
US
888-211-7085 fax: 775-249-8994
Record expires on 28-Jan-2006.
Record created on 27-Jan-1997.
Database last updated on 10-Jan-2004 12:49:22 EST.
Domain servers in listed order:
NS1.4IBUSINESS.COM 69.20.21.217
NS2.AIRFACE.COM 208.233.96.253
AND the other one........
whois -h whois.register.com replacementautoparts.com ...
Organization:
replacement auto parts
dick pine
PO Box 3499
trenton, nj 08619
US
Phone: 6098901695
Fax..: 6098901695
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Registrar Name....: Register.com
Registrar Whois...: whois.register.com
Registrar Homepage: http://www.register.com
Domain Name: REPLACEMENTAUTOPARTS.COM
Created on..............: Thu, Mar 06, 2003
Expires on..............: Sun, Mar 06, 2005
Record last updated on..: Fri, Oct 17, 2003
Administrative Contact:
replacement auto parts
dick pine
PO Box 3499
trenton, nj 08619
US
Phone: 6098901695
Fax..: 6098901695
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Technical Contact:
replacement auto parts
dick pine
PO Box 3499
trenton, nj 08619
US
Phone: 6098901695
Fax..: 6098901695
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zone Contact:
replacement auto parts
dick pine
PO Box 3499
trenton, nj 08619
US
Phone: 6098901695
Fax..: 6098901695
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Domain servers in listed order:
DNS9.REGISTER.COM 216.21.234.75
DNS10.REGISTER.COM 216.21.226.75
Register your domain name at http://www.register.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Carey Probst
> Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 10:52 AM
> To: E36M3; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [UUC] Bimmerparsts and Replacementautoparts
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> Does anyone know if these sites are the same?
>
> Very similar but the replacementautoparts site has slightly lover
> prices, same shipping and return policies, and the 800 number is
> only 1 different from Bimmerparts.
>
> Figure if they are the same, buy from the cheaper of the 2.
>
> TIA
>
>
>
> Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam
> BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters
> JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 15:20:28 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: MIG Welder
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm thinking about buying a small wire-fed MIG welder to do those inevitable
home garage jobs, such as welding up brackets or reinforcements. I'm not
going to be building my own tube frame formula car chassis, and the unit
will probably be used relatively infrequently.
It looks as if about 130 amps is as high as these units go on 120V, and
while I do have 240V available in the garage, I'd get more flexibility of
use out of a 120V welder. This will weld mild steel up to 3/16" thick, which
seems adequate, and can also handle aluminum. Depending on brand, the price
range for a 130A MIG welder with cart, torch and gas regulator is in the
$350-500 area. (Helmet and other protective gear are extra.) I don't want to
get the cheapest POS no-name I can find, but neither does it seem worthwhile
to get the Rolls Royce of welders. Of the brands I've looked at, Clarke
seems to be the value leader, Hobart and Lincoln rather more expensive, and
Miller well into professional equipment pricing levels.
Anyone have useful do's, don'ts, or D'ohs! to offer?
And no, I've never used a welder. But it should be fun to learn. However my
wife insists that I'm not allowed to weld anything that's life-critical...
Neil
96 M3
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 19:35:02 +0000
From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Genuine Motorsport 3.0 CSL spoiler for sale
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Haven't spent enough money during the holidays? Want to contribute to
economic growth in stagnant Germany? Go to ebay auction 2453475484! No one
I know, endorse, am commissioned to, etc. Just passing on information to
others. Call me a bad influence, but it's a good excuse to spend money !!
Gregory in Geneva
_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 17:03:11 -0500 (EST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list)
Subject: Not my day... (was E30 fuel woes)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Today just wasn't my day.
I go out to the car and try to start it. Hmmm, no start. Well, it is 4
degrees outside...
Three tries later the battery is kaput.
Ok, well, it was 6 years old. Replace the battery.
Cranks better but still no start.
I wonder... bypass the fuel pump relay and no pump noise.
Looks like my primary pump finally gave up. I suspected it might after I
replaced the transfer pump before Christmas, but I didn't expect it to be
quite so soon or decicive about it. At least it waited until a weekend to do
it.
Well, I was going to replace the main pump on general principals, but at a
time of my choosing. Now I get to do it when it warms up to 20 or so.
-- Joe, worked fine yesterday...
--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 18:45:52 -0500
From: Eric Adair <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: OBD Codes P1174/P1175 on an 1997 E39 540i
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
(I sent this earlier using another, non-list-subscribed email address and
got an error. Apologies if this shows up twice)
Lately, I have been experiencing poor performance when the engine is cold
(missing, lack of power, etc), accompanied by illumination of the Check
Engine light. My trusty OBD-II reader tells me that codes P1174 and P1175
are being stored. These codes are defined as:
P1174 - Fuel Trim Adaptation Additive Bank 1 Malfunction
P1175 - Fuel Trim Adaptation Additive Bank 2 Malfunction
While I have not been able to get a concise definition of exactly what this
means, I suspect that it indicates that an attempt was made to add fuel to
the mixture, but no such addition took place, at least as measured by the
O2 sensors.
Some more info about the problem: Once the car warms up, it runs fine.
Ambient temperature seems to play a role - the colder it is outside, the
worse it runs, and the onset of this problem coincided with the onset of
below-freezing weather. The car has recently had the catalytic convertors
replaced with new factory parts, but several months elapsed between that
work and the onset of this problem. Also, the car has had what sounds like
a minor exhaust leak in the front portion of the system for at least 40
thousand miles. I suspect that this is not the cause of the problem due to
the fact that, from the standpoint of the emissions system, the car has two
separate exhaust paths, and this affects both sides of the engine.
I have a number of items which I intend to check that may be the source of
this problem (fuel pressure, vacuum/air leaks, etc), but would appreciate
any advice that the combined wisdom of the list could offer before I dive
into this.
Thanks in advance,
Eric Adair
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 17:24:47 -0500
From: Eric Adair <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: OBD Codes P1174/P1175 on an 1997 E39 540i
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Lately, I have been experiencing poor performance when the engine is cold
(missing, lack of power, etc), accompanied by illumination of the Check
Engine light. My trusty OBD-II reader tells me that codes P1174 and P1175
are being stored. These codes are defined as:
P1174 - Fuel Trim Adaptation Additive Bank 1 Malfunction
P1175 - Fuel Trim Adaptation Additive Bank 2 Malfunction
While I have not been able to get a concise definition of exactly what this
means, I suspect that it indicates that an attempt was made to add fuel to
the mixture, but no such addition took place, at least as measured by the
O2 sensors.
Some more info about the problem: Once the car warms up, it runs fine.
Ambient temperature seems to play a role - the colder it is outside, the
worse it runs, and the onset of this problem coincided with the onset of
below-freezing weather. The car has recently had the catalytic convertors
replaced with new factory parts, but several months elapsed between that
work and the onset of this problem. Also, the car has had what sounds like
a minor exhaust leak in the front portion of the system for at least 40
thousand miles. I suspect that this is not the cause of the problem due to
the fact that, from the standpoint of the emissions system, the car has two
separate exhaust paths, and this affects both sides of the engine.
I have a number of items which I intend to check that may be the source of
this problem (fuel pressure, vacuum/air leaks, etc), but would appreciate
any advice that the combined wisdom of the list could offer before I dive
into this.
Thanks in advance,
Eric Adair
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 18:55:15 -0500
From: "Mike Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: M3-add cruise control
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I looked at a nice 99 M3 today, and it does not have the trip computer,
cruise control, or power seats. Of the 3. the cruise control is the most
important to me. Can factory cruise control be added? I have added cruise
control on a previous car, so I know aftermarket ones can be added from Jc
Whitney and such.
MikeG
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 22:14:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: MIG Welder
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Howdy,
On Thu, 8 Jan 2004, Neil Maller wrote:
> I'm thinking about buying a small wire-fed MIG welder to do those inevitable
> home garage jobs, such as welding up brackets or reinforcements. I'm not
> going to be building my own tube frame formula car chassis, and the unit
> will probably be used relatively infrequently.
>
> It looks as if about 130 amps is as high as these units go on 120V, and
> while I do have 240V available in the garage, I'd get more flexibility of
> use out of a 120V welder. This will weld mild steel up to 3/16" thick, which
> seems adequate, and can also handle aluminum. Depending on brand, the price
> range for a 130A MIG welder with cart, torch and gas regulator is in the
> $350-500 area. (Helmet and other protective gear are extra.) I don't want to
> get the cheapest POS no-name I can find, but neither does it seem worthwhile
> to get the Rolls Royce of welders. Of the brands I've looked at, Clarke
> seems to be the value leader, Hobart and Lincoln rather more expensive, and
> Miller well into professional equipment pricing levels.
>
> Anyone have useful do's, don'ts, or D'ohs! to offer?
>
> And no, I've never used a welder. But it should be fun to learn. However my
> wife insists that I'm not allowed to weld anything that's life-critical...
I've used a Miller 135 (110V) unit along with my Lincoln SP-175 Plus
(220V). Both are fairly light duty "suitcase" style MIG welders.
First off, I've heard some pretty bad things about any of these types of
units being very successful with AL. They all feed the wire from the
unit, and the AL filler wire is apparently soft enough to not feed very
reliably.
Second, even the 220V Lincoln and Miller suitcase units are essentially
"home shop only" types of deals. They all have 30% or less duty cycle,
are more cheaply made then their industrial counterparts, etc. They _are
not_ junk by any means and will do a home shop user fine, but you should
confuse them with the real MIG welders that both companies offer.
As to 110V vs. 220V... The Miller 135 I used was very unimpressive to me.
Not much penetration on 1/8" steel. I wouldn't own one if I had 220
available (and if I didn't have it, I'd try to get it first! :-)
I've been reasonably happy with the Lincoln sp-175plus I have overall.
Were I to do it again, I'd look at the Miller more closely though. I
think their feed mechanism might be a bit more robust. Both were very
similar in cost back when I was looking (a few years ago), but the Miller
had a step type heat control and the Lincoln was variable. I hear the
Miller now is variable as well.
Hobart is owned by Miller I believe, and it a value priced line for them.
I'd choose Hobart if value vs. features was a higher concern.
As to other stuff... I'd recommend taking a welding class at your local
vo-tech adult ed place. Typically pretty cheap and while what you learn
will likely be more about oxy-acetlyne and arc, the experience will
transfer and the instructor will likely be a godsend of info.
And... Don't lean directly over what you're welding, breathing in the
welding fumes. Its a great way to simulate having the flu for the next
couple days... Turns out metal poisoning isn't good for you! :-)
(yeah, personal experience talking there. :-/)
Mark
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 22:26:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: MIG Welder
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Howdy,
On Sat, 10 Jan 2004, Chris Pawlowicz wrote:
> I went with 120V because lots of people have told me it works just fine for
> sheet metal (ie car bodywork) which is mostly what I want to do. I went to
> my local gas/welding store, talked to them, and chose one of the lines they
> carry. I went with a miller 135 over the lincoln because of the drive
> mechanism and the aluminum accessories.
Yep. My understanding is that the Miller uses Tweeco industry standard
guns, so it wouldn't surprise me if you could get an AL spool gun for
them. One more reason (I agree about the feed mechanism as well) that I'd
go Miller over Lincoln were I to do it again. To be fair though, I've run
three or so spools of wire through the Lincoln without a lick of trouble.
> Because you'll need gas (generally leased bottle from a local company),
> see who is local and talk to them. I prefer dealing with a local company
> rather than a big-box store or mail order.
Pick a local gas supply place to get your consumables from, etc.
Hopefully you'll have a few in the area so that if you "luck out" and find
one where they don't want to be bothered by a home user you can go to the
other.
In terms of prices however, when I got my stuff nobody could come very
close to www.weldingmart.com. They've been very good for me to deal with
and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.
> Don't forget the welding helmet (auto-darken ones are pretty slick),
> gloves, and maybe a grinder for cleaning up the metal before welding.
For the welding helmet, I've used two. An adjustable shade Jackson
Journeyman EQ, which has batteries and is a 'normal' choice for folks,
along with a $60 solar Harbor Freight adjustable auto darkening hood. I
like the $60 HF cheapie the best. View seems to be a bit more clear and
the shade adjuster is on the outside and 'gloved hand' accessible. You
might want to try one. I also run my shade on the lighter side (9).
Apparently the eye damage from welding comes from the UV light, which gets
filtered out at any shade setting. The lighter shade lets me see what I'm
doing better.
I've got no less than four 4.5" right angle grinders. These things are
_super_ handy and cheap enough that you can get extras so you're not
always swapping discs around. I keep one setup with a grinding wheel, one
with a cut off disc (get saitech ones... they use 3m cubitron grains and
last about 10 times as long as regular), one with a knotted wire wheel,
and one with a flap wheel. Each comes in handy for its own thing. For
cleaning rust, its hard to beat the flap wheel.
Btw, don't get the wrong impression. I'm a home user all the way, just
sharing what I've learned during the process of building my autox CP
mustang chassis... A real welder would put me to shame. :-)
Mark
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 21:26:04 -0800
From: donna seeley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, E30M3 Sig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
UUC digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [FS] E30 M steering wheel
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Floating in the bay: Stock E30 M3 steering wheel - 98% perfect :)
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453458212>
In Tinyese:
http://tinyurl.com/2ehu9
Donna
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 00:55:03 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: e30 Steering rack won't come out!!!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thanks to all for your responses on the bearing control arm bushing question.
Next issue: Bentley makes it sound pretty straightforward to get my ZF rack out of my
car. I've undone the high and low pressure line, taken the u-joint off of the splined
end and unbolted it from the subframe but I can't get it out! The photo in Bentley
looks different than mine. It would appear in the book as though the mounting tabs on
the sub frame are of different length and mine appear to be the same length and I
can't sneak it past the oil pan which sits in front of it. Can anyone help me out
here? Can I unbolt the subframe to get it past? Don't know if I want to get into
that but Bentley is usually really good but they make it sound like once the bolts are
out of the subframe it just comes out. Ugh....
Dave '84 eta
tie-rods-a-danglin'
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
**********
