The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 83 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Trans fliud- 00 328/5 E36 325i parts for sale Re: E34 heater core swap Re: E34 heater core swap <E36> M3 Shark Injector Re: <E36> M3 Shark Injector Re: <E36> M3 Shark Injector 93 525 5-speed--Fun to drive?? Re: 93 525 5-speed--Fun to drive?? Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Re: <E28> What suspension/steering pieces to replace? E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Steering Column Squeak
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 15:15:20 -0500 From: "lieb923" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC DIGEST" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Trans fliud- 00 328/5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Check your spec. if it calls for ATF you should look at Redline D-4 ATF. YMMV, HTH. Norman Lieberman ''97 528/5 w/D4atf. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 15:50:48 -0500 From: Rob Verenna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E36 325i parts for sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Someone else's post reminded me I am trying to get rid of the following parts from my '94 325i (E36 four-door) race car: * Passenger Seat - Sport package seat, dove gray, full power * Rear Seat - bench, non-folding, two pieces (seat back and seat bottom) * Rear Carpet piece - gray, 6" tall piece from floor to seat bottom * Rear decklid / parcel shelf - has all speaker covers intact * Rear door panels - two-tone light and dark gray * Driver's door window glass - non-tinted, perfect shape * Stock airbox * Factory plastic dead pedal * Factory plastic engine cover pieces * Factory hood insulation - single foam piece * Interior overhead light assembly * Center console surround piece (piece that covers transmission tunnel; gear shift goes through the middle of it) * Factory Radiator cover - top plastic piece * Misc. plastic trim pieces All parts are "make me an offer"... if you cover shipping I'll take as little as $25 for the seats. I need it all out of my basement and can ship any of them with reasonable ease (or deliver near Pittsburgh, PA). Pictures available upon request. - rob ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 16:23:18 -0500 From: "Beaudette, Roland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Uuc (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 heater core swap Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Finally, something I have actually accomplished myself. The web site you referenced is correct in most of the write-up except on one point. I did not, nor does Bentley recommend, removing the dash. Be careful disassembling the hand brake section of the console from the center (dash) console. There is a screw underneath the hand brake handle, a the splitline of the two pieces, that you may miss depending on the where the leather hand brake boot falls (when you pop it out). Don't worry, it won't prevent re-assembly if you break off either of the plastic tabs that secure the two pieces :) Absolutely spend the $35 or so to buy the tubes connecting the h/c to the aluminum firewall tubes. I also did the h/c repair only to find that there were additional leaks from the tubes. This is also a good time to replace the lamps in the OBC and heater controls. Other than that, don't loose any of the tiny sheet metal screws and you should be fine. Cheers, Roland ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 13:32:21 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 heater core swap Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Andrew, The SBC site instructions are for an E32. If the dash structure is the same for the 535 I would suspect that it's the same procedure. On the Dutch gentlemen's site there is also a faster method which doesn't involve taking apart the whole front dash. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 16:16:56 -0600 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E36> M3 Shark Injector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have been considering purchasing a shark injector for my 97 M3/4 and accordingly looked at the HP/torque numbers on the eurosport site. Those numbers list some pretty impressive gains, but they noted to be corrected to crankshaft HP/torque NOT stock HP/torque. Does this mean that the car they tested on had higher than stock output or something else entirely? Also the gains shown for the injector are 3 times those shown for Dinan's software. I have owned and enjoyed both Conforti and Dinan chips on previous bimmers, but this seems to be a big discrepancy. Any ideas what gives? Finally, I'd be interested in hearing from others WRT their experience with the shark injector on their M3's. Regards, Paul Craven 97 M3 4 Two former 3's, Five former 5's and Two former 7's ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 16:35:06 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> M3 Shark Injector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I have been considering purchasing a shark injector for my 97 M3/4 and > accordingly looked at the HP/torque numbers on the eurosport site. > Those numbers list some pretty impressive gains, but they noted to be > corrected to crankshaft HP/torque NOT stock HP/torque. Does this mean > that the car they tested on had higher than stock output or something > else entirely? I would ask Josh about that, but by the looks of it, the 96+ E36's that they show, have 250HP listed, whereas BMW always listed them as 240HP. > Also the gains shown for the injector are 3 times those > shown for Dinan's software. Depends on what you're talking about: peak gains or gains at peak. "Peak gain" appears to be the maximum gain achieved *anywhere* on the curve. "Gain at peak" is the measurement of the gain at the highest point on the curve. Basically, you need to make sure you're comparing the gains from different vendors at the same RPM. > Finally, I'd be interested in hearing from > others WRT their experience with the shark injector on their M3's. I've had my '98 M3/4 Sharked since I bought it in Sept '98 - nearly 140K miles, 10K on track. I'm very happy with it. Performance improvements aside, there are some real "driveability" improvements that make it better than stock for daily driving - smoother power delivery throughout the whole RPM range, smoother injector cutoff at low speeds which improves stop-n-go traffic driving, to name two. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - Shark software & intake 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - Shark chip & intake ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 15:36:47 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> M3 Shark Injector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Paul, I'm not sure what Eurosport did to come by their numbers, but the numbers seem a little suspect. On it's face 34 hp /40 ft-lb sounds way optimistic for a chip even though they appear to be quoting the increase where it is greatest rather than peak-to-peak increase. They also seem to be comparing a measured hp to the factory rating rather than tested values before and after which is apples and oranges. As the factory ratings are at the crank I presume they must be applying some correction factor to a measured rear-wheel dyno number which is one potential source of optimism. Although it's possible I doubt they've actually tested all of these engines on an engine dyno - it would be pretty coincidental if the 93-95 325i they tested happened to put out exactly the factory-rated horsepower which I happen to know is 189 since I own a 94 325ic. If they are in fact using the factory rating as a "before" number, if the engine is underrated from the factory it will inflate the app! arent benefit of the chip. Example: My aforementioned 325ic is rated at 189hp. Unless I pull the engine and test it on an engine dyno I don't know how close to reality that number is. Assuming about a 15% drivetrain loss if I test the car on a rear-wheel dyno I'd expect a measured rwhp of 160.65. Now suppose I shark it and see 180 rwhp on the dyno. I've gained ~20 rwhp and applying the same 15% loss ~212 crank hp. Their chart would show a gain of 23 hp (pretty close to what they actually show, 211 and 22). This is legit because I tested before and after. Now suppose I *didn't* test before, I just assumed 189 was accurate. If the engine is underrated at all (manufacturers tend to rate conservatively - just ask Ford about the 96 Cobra which didn't make the advertised power) the chip appears to have given a greater gain than actual. Suppose the engine was really making 200 crank hp before the shark - I've only gained 12 hp, not 23. The chip doesn't look quite as impressive. The only test I'd trust as reliable is if I see a dyno chart with back-to-back before and after curves. Even better, average 3 runs before and 3 after. The "installation" of the shark injector is trivial - no reason they couldn't do this. Brian 94 325ic -----Original Message----- From: Paul Craven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Jan 7, 2004 2:16 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] <E36> M3 Shark Injector Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] I have been considering purchasing a shark injector for my 97 M3/4 and accordingly looked at the HP/torque numbers on the eurosport site. Those numbers list some pretty impressive gains, but they noted to be corrected to crankshaft HP/torque NOT stock HP/torque. Does this mean that the car they tested on had higher than stock output or something else entirely? Also the gains shown for the injector are 3 times those shown for Dinan's software. I have owned and enjoyed both Conforti and Dinan chips on previous bimmers, but this seems to be a big discrepancy. Any ideas what gives? Finally, I'd be interested in hearing from others WRT their experience with the shark injector on their M3's. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 14:20:29 -0800 From: Michael Holbrook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 93 525 5-speed--Fun to drive?? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thinking of a 93 525 with a 5 speed manual trans. Stock. Is this remotely fun to drive. Previous E34 was a 530 with 5speed auto trans. I chipped that and a few other things and it was great. If the 525 with manual trans was as quick, I might buy it. I'd like to hear from some owners of these cars however. Anyone? Reply off list if you wish: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, Mike Holbrook [EMAIL PROTECTED] 83 Panzer 300TD ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 20:13:11 -0500 From: "Mike Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 93 525 5-speed--Fun to drive?? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a 93 325i and very much enjoy driving it! Presently have 122k miles. I put on Bilstein HD shocks/struts at about 50K and 16" tires all around, which made a significant improvement. Also had a JC chip in for quite a while but had to take it out because of pinging. The engine still sings a great tune. MikeG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Holbrook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Thinking of a 93 525 with a 5 speed manual trans. Stock. Is this remotely > fun to drive. Previous E34 was a 530 with 5speed auto trans. I chipped > that and a few other things and it was great. If the 525 with manual > trans was as quick, I might buy it. I'd like to hear from some owners of > these cars however. Anyone? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 17:35:37 -0800 (PST) From: "Patrick Green" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have an E36 M50 and yes its the thermostat, I've got the same disease right now. Being that its -10 in MI right now, I really need to fix that thing. Pat Green On 7 Jan 2004 18:25:33 -0000, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > This is my first winter with my M50 E34 touring ('94). > With the temps below 20F the temp gauge is not reaching > the midpoint - it's generally settling in 1 division > below that (1/4 tank?). > > Should this car be warming up better than that? Do I > need to put a thermostat on my shopping list? > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home > of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ----------------------------------------------------- This message is intended only for the addressee. Please notify the sender by email if you are not the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you many not copy, disclose, or distribute this message or its contents to any other person and any such actions may be unlawful. Acordia reserves the right to monitor and review the content of all messages sent to or received from this email address. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 22:43:41 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Andy Messer'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In warmer weather the needle rides at 12:00, and no, it isn't getting very hot either. Where in Indiana do you live - I'm in Indianapolis. -----Original Message----- From: Andy Messer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 10:39 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather >This is my first winter with my M50 E34 touring ('94). With the temps >below 20F the temp gauge is not reaching the midpoint - it's generally >settling in 1 division below that (1/4 tank?). > >Should this car be warming up better than that? Do I need to put a >thermostat on my shopping list? Not sure if it is the same for an E34, but my 88 325 has never gone above the 1/4 mark (under normal operating conditions) in the 6 years I've owned it. I've changed the 'stat about 3 or 4 times (once factory, two or three were OE supplier that I can't remember right now). I live in Indiana where it is currently 15 deg F. You didn't say in your post, does it actually blow hot? Mine gets blazing hot and heats up quickly. It starts to blow hot air when the needle gets above the 'cold' (white) line and into the blue. It's mildly annoying to me, but 3 stats can't be wrong. Yes, it could be the gauge, but I'm not going to replace it to test that theory. Both yours and my dashes are electronic and BMW gauges are 'buffered' to not show every slight temp fluctuation. Your E34 dash can run through a self diagnostic to test the gauge function, right? Anyway, my thoughts, so take 'em for what they're worth. Zip. Andy 88 iX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 23:04:11 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "In warmer weather the needle rides at 12:00, and no, it isn't getting very hot either. Where in Indiana do you live - I'm in Indianapolis." Sorry - did not intend for this to go to the list. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 18:16:58 -0800 From: "Polands" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E28> What suspension/steering pieces to replace? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Malcom: in addition to those main bushings suggested by Gary, you should replace all of the ball joint items in the steering. You won't believe how great a difference all these can make. Steve Poland '88 535is 238,000miles Portland, OR ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 22:38:58 -0500 From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >This is my first winter with my M50 E34 touring ('94). With the temps >below 20F the temp gauge is not reaching the midpoint - it's generally >settling in 1 division below that (1/4 tank?). > >Should this car be warming up better than that? Do I need to put a >thermostat on my shopping list? Not sure if it is the same for an E34, but my 88 325 has never gone above the 1/4 mark (under normal operating conditions) in the 6 years I've owned it. I've changed the 'stat about 3 or 4 times (once factory, two or three were OE supplier that I can't remember right now). I live in Indiana where it is currently 15 deg F. You didn't say in your post, does it actually blow hot? Mine gets blazing hot and heats up quickly. It starts to blow hot air when the needle gets above the 'cold' (white) line and into the blue. It's mildly annoying to me, but 3 stats can't be wrong. Yes, it could be the gauge, but I'm not going to replace it to test that theory. Both yours and my dashes are electronic and BMW gauges are 'buffered' to not show every slight temp fluctuation. Your E34 dash can run through a self diagnostic to test the gauge function, right? Anyway, my thoughts, so take 'em for what they're worth. Zip. Andy 88 iX ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 06:51:41 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Steering Column Squeak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Here is the situation which started about 3 weeks okay: 1995 325 Ti Club Sport Developed a small squeak in the steering column. I have taken the column plastic surround off and sprayed some lube around a few points, but this solved nothing. I checked the power steering fluid - it is okay. The squeak is definitely coming from the column from around the area that the cluster of levers are (wiper, turn signal, ignition). It only squeaks when turning the wheel all the way to the right or left, and then at what I perceive to be the same spot when straighten the wheel back to center. Phil ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
