The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 81 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <E30> Early Euro fuse box vs. US Re: <E30> Early Euro fuse box vs. US Re: [E46] Transmission Fill Quantities E36 Battery Vent & Master Cylinder Re: E36 Battery Vent & Master Cylinder Re: E36 Battery Vent & Master Cylinder Re: [E46] Transmission Fill Quantities 90 525iA brake lining warning E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues Re: E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues Re: E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues Re: E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues [UCC] belt squeal? Re: belt squeal? Re: belt squeal?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 09:23:32 -0500 From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> Early Euro fuse box vs. US Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I have an early Euro 325i that will soon be receiving a complete Motronic 1.1 engine management system from the donor '87 325iS parts car. My only hitch at this point is trying to figure out if the fuse boxes are different enough to cause issues. On the Euro the fuse box is mounted at a slight angle compared to the US car with a "square" mount relative to the cowl. Anyone have any experience or pointers to info on the fuse boxes? My main concern is with pins matching up in the big round connector on the firewall. ...And if anyone is interested, the Euro has Motronic 1.0 with an engine harness just like a US 325e, tranny sensors and all. Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 14:28:01 -0500 From: "Mitchell Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Early Euro fuse box vs. US Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 84-85 US cars used the rectangular "C101" engine / fusebox connector. 86 and newer cars had the round version. I have a 7/85 "85" euro 325 w/ the rectangular plug. You can fab an adaptor leaving the engine harness and the fuse box harness uncut. I ordered ETM SD92-118 from the dealer. Unfortunately it only covers US cars. Never been able to find a euro only ETM. > Group, > > I have an early Euro 325i that will soon be receiving a complete > Motronic 1.1 engine management system from the donor '87 325iS parts > car. My only hitch at this point is trying to figure out if the fuse > boxes are different enough to cause issues. On the Euro the fuse box is > mounted at a slight angle compared to the US car with a "square" mount > relative to the cowl. > > Anyone have any experience or pointers to info on the fuse boxes? My > main concern is with pins matching up in the big round connector on the > firewall. > Matt Weimer > Hoosier Chapter > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 08:45:59 -0600 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [E46] Transmission Fill Quantities Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On my 330i I seem to remember it was just over 1.5 quarts, however, if you buy two quarts of 75W90 (I use Redline FWIW) you will have plenty. I use a giant syringe that I bought from Griotts garage to get the new fluid in there, just add enough so that it starts to overflow from the fill plug. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 10:42:30 -0500 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 Battery Vent & Master Cylinder Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Happy New Year Group, As usual, a couple of questions: - I replaced my '94 325i battery last night. I couldn't see where the vent tube exits the battery well and couldn't find any clues in the Bentley - help? - I'll be replacing my brake master cylinder soon. Are there any seals/grommets/o-rings or anything else that I should be replacing while I'm in there? Are the pieces necessary for bench bleeding readily available at an auto parts store? This will be a new operation for me. Any tips appreciated. Thanks, Chris B. '94 325i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 10:34:04 -0600 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 Battery Vent & Master Cylinder Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Chris, IIRC, the vent tube goes out a rubber grommet in the bottom of the battery bin. Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Baker Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 9:43 AM To: UUC Digest Subject: [UUC] E36 Battery Vent & Master Cylinder Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Happy New Year Group, As usual, a couple of questions: - I replaced my '94 325i battery last night. I couldn't see where the vent tube exits the battery well and couldn't find any clues in the Bentley - help? - I'll be replacing my brake master cylinder soon. Are there any seals/grommets/o-rings or anything else that I should be replacing while I'm in there? Are the pieces necessary for bench bleeding readily available at an auto parts store? This will be a new operation for me. Any tips appreciated. Thanks, Chris B. '94 325i ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 12:27:17 -0500 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Battery Vent & Master Cylinder Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Chris, BTDT. Malcolm is right on. After I fed the vent tube down the hole, I reached under the car and used a zip-strip to hold the bottom end of the tube in place. The car is in storage or I'd send you a pretty picture... Jay H. ****** > Chris, > IIRC, the vent tube goes out a rubber grommet in the bottom of the > battery bin. > Malcolm > -----Original Message----- > - I replaced my '94 325i battery last night. I couldn't see where the > vent tube exits the battery well and couldn't find any clues in the > Bentley - help? > Chris B. > '94 325i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 08:22:24 -0800 (PST) From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [E46] Transmission Fill Quantities Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Tue, 6 Jan 2004, Cliff James wrote: > Any one know the quantity for the Rear Axle Fluid on a 2000 328i? On all the BMWs I've seen, the rear end uses just a bit more fluid than the manual transmission. Like someone else said, have an extra quart handy and put the oil in until it comes out the filler hole. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 11:40:47 -0500 From: "Beaudette, Roland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Uuc (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 90 525iA brake lining warning Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I was unclear. The pad wear sensor was replaced with a new one at the time of the brake replacement. It was the harness wire from the car that frayed. All the necessary clamps were there, but I overlooked reattaching the wire bundle during a look-see :( Will a splice really confuse the diagnostics? I thought the pad sensor was an closed/open circuit thing. Cheers, Roland --------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 15:17:30 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: brake lining warning Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Buy a new sensor for $20 and plug it in. If you want to avoid this in the future, tie it back with a zip tie and keep an eye on your pads. > Any way to disable the warning and clear the dash display if I can't solve the > problem? Marc Plante E36 325i, 218k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 12:40:53 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, it is time for me to spend some time dealing with the door locks on my 1989 325is. Here are the symptoms: - The driver's side door lock did work (would lock and double lock the driver's side door, the trunk and fuel filler only, not the passenger door) up until recently (when I swapped doors...see below) where nothing is happening when you lock it (it won't lock mechanically or electronically). I can hear an electrical unit in the door momentarily "straining" when I turn the key but nothing actually happens. - The passenger door lock has never worked with any of the other locks, I can lock and unlock it from the interior manually, that is about it (I can't recall at this moment if the key will operate the lock, I believe it will). - The driver's side door lock mechanically works very well (I removed it, tore it down, cleaned it, lubed it, made sure the little lever was straight, etc.). I had to swap the lock cylinder over recently when I swapped the driver's side door from another E30 (my old door had significant body damage but at least the lock worked on the driver's side door). I managed to get the door swapped pretty easily and aligned in the opening and with the catch. - I can't operate anything from the trunk lock, never have. That is about it. So, where do I start? Are the door lock actuators in the doors the likely problem and need replaced (both sides)? Before the driver's side door swap, I was guessing that just the passenger side actuator was problematic but the "new" door I acquired also has a bad actuator too. Any thoughts or advice is appreciated. Yes, I have looked at Chris P's Central Locking Overview (and probably could spend some more time with it). Best regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 15:50:56 -0500 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rich says > Well, it is time for me to spend some time dealing with the door locks on my 1989 325is. > Here are the symptoms: > > - The driver's side door lock did work (would lock and double lock the driver's side door, the trunk and fuel filler only, not the passenger door) up until recently (when I swapped doors...see below) where nothing is happening when you lock it (it won't lock mechanically or electronically). I can hear an electrical unit in the door momentarily "straining" when I turn the key but nothing actually happens. If you disconnect the door lock actuator in the drivers door, you should be able to lock and unlock the door via the key- if you can't, it's very likely that the door lock cylinder mechanism (specifically the spring/cam/arm arrangement) is toast. The spring gets weak over time. BMW has a 'door lock repair kit' which comes with new cylinder, all tumblers (to key it to your own key) and a new cam/spring setup. They may or may not sell it to you (it's marked 'dealer install only') and the cost is not bad (<$50?) Note that the door should completely lock mechanically by turning the key 45 degrees to the right (a full 90 degrees is NOT required in a properly working system.. if it takes that much to lock the door, your lock cylinder spring is junk). It takes a lot of force to engage the lock.. the spring has to be really stiff. If this all works fine but not when you hook up the door lock actuator, then you could very possibly have a shorted out or jammed actuator. (I've ran across both.. one was jammed.. one just didn't work electrically any more). > > - The passenger door lock has never worked with any of the other locks, I can lock and unlock it from the interior manually, that is about it (I can't recall at this moment if the key will operate the lock, I believe it will). 2 main trouble areas - the big connector on the A pillar between the door and the A pillar.. or the actuator itself. The big connector often gets corroded (new pins are available to replace the corroded ones). Pull the door panel, see if you get 12v at the actuator when locking/unlocking via the drivers door. It could also be the central lock computer, but it's much more likely to be a problem at the door. Note that the passenger door lock actuator is different than the drivers door (includes an internal double lock mechanism, the drivers door uses the key cylinder as the double lock mechanism) Note that if you get the system stuck 'double locked' and can't get it (ie the drivers door lock cylinder is screwed), you CAN get in the passenger door with the key by turning key / lifting handle at the same time.. the door will open (but stay locked).. ! > - The driver's side door lock mechanically works very well (I removed it, tore it down, cleaned it, lubed it, made sure the little lever was straight, etc.). I had to swap the lock cylinder over recently when I swapped the driver's side door from another E30 (my old door had significant body damage but at least the lock worked on the driver's side door). I managed to get the door swapped pretty easily and aligned in the opening and with the catch. see my first comment - while the tumblers/cylinder may be in excellent shape, if the spring is weak, you won't be able to lock/unlock anything.. the 'double lock' microswitch often masks a weak spring by signalling 'double lock' to the computer and letting the door lock actuator lock the door rather than locking mechanically via the key > > - I can't operate anything from the trunk lock, never have. that's a bit strange.. usually people lose the drivers lock first, then sometimes the passenger side.. and end up using the trunk to lock/unlock everything ;) > > That is about it. So, where do I start? Are the door lock actuators in the doors the likely problem and need replaced (both sides)? Before the driver's side door swap, I was guessing that just the passenger side actuator was problematic but the "new" door I acquired also has a bad actuator too. -drivers door lock cylinders go bad often -door lock actuators go bad often -the big connector from door to A pillar gets messed up often with corrosion (especially in snowy countries) -the lock computer is generally robust except sometimes the 'crash' detector springs open and leaves everything unlocked (and then never lets you lock the doors again).. OR if you have a leak in the base of the A pillar and it trickles down inside and corrodes the heck out of the computer I'd first get your drivers door lock working mechanically (no actuators). Key turned 45degrees only (not 90) to lock. Then work with the lock actuator. Check to see if the 'motor' connection is open circuit (burned out). A momentary 12v or -12v should open/close the actuator. Then work on the A pillar connector and make sure it looks ok. hope this helps Chris Pawlowicz ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 16:05:42 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > -----Original Message----- > From: Chris Pawlowicz [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > If you disconnect the door lock actuator in the drivers door, > you should be > able to lock and unlock the door via the key- if you can't, > it's very likely > that the door lock cylinder mechanism (specifically the spring/cam/arm > arrangement) is toast. The spring gets weak over time. BMW > has a 'door lock > repair kit' which comes with new cylinder, all tumblers (to > key it to your > own key) and a new cam/spring setup. Yes, I have done this before on an E30. I had planned to do it on this one and had a rebuild kit but found out I had the wrong rebuild kit when I went to do (I had the one for the pre-central locking which has less tumbles, etc.). I have the proper rebuild kit on order so I will go ahead and rebuild the cylinder (I was only able to clean and lube it last time due to having the improper kit mentioned previously). > Note that the door should completely lock mechanically by > turning the key 45 > degrees to the right (a full 90 degrees is NOT required in a properly > working system.. if it takes that much to lock the door, your > lock cylinder > spring is junk). > It takes a lot of force to engage the lock.. the spring has > to be really > stiff. It could be the spring I suppose based on your comments. The door does not lock at 45 degrees (or any degrees for that matter)... > If this all works fine but not when you hook up the door lock > actuator, then > you could very possibly have a shorted out or jammed > actuator. (I've ran > across both.. one was jammed.. one just didn't work > electrically any more). I will cover the other bases first before testing or suspecting the actuator. > 2 main trouble areas - the big connector on the A pillar > between the door > and the A pillar.. or the actuator itself. The big connector > often gets > corroded (new pins are available to replace the corroded > ones). Pull the > door panel, see if you get 12v at the actuator when > locking/unlocking via > the drivers door. Will do. > It could also be the central lock computer, but it's much > more likely to be > a problem at the door. Note that the passenger door lock actuator is > different than the drivers door (includes an internal double > lock mechanism, > the drivers door uses the key cylinder as the double lock mechanism) > > Note that if you get the system stuck 'double locked' and > can't get it (ie > the drivers door lock cylinder is screwed), you CAN get in > the passenger > door with the key by turning key / lifting handle at the same > time.. the > door will open (but stay locked).. ! Good advice, I did not know that. > > - I can't operate anything from the trunk lock, never have. > > that's a bit strange.. usually people lose the drivers lock > first, then > sometimes the passenger side.. and end up using the trunk to > lock/unlock > everything ;) Yes, I had a similar problem with my old E30 and used the trunk to actuate the locks. In this E30, the trunk has never work. I can slip the key into the keyhole, but I can't turn it in either direction... > -drivers door lock cylinders go bad often > -door lock actuators go bad often > -the big connector from door to A pillar gets messed up often > with corrosion > (especially in snowy countries) > > -the lock computer is generally robust except sometimes the > 'crash' detector > springs open and leaves everything unlocked (and then never > lets you lock > the doors again).. OR if you have a leak in the base of the A > pillar and it > trickles down inside and corrodes the heck out of the computer > > I'd first get your drivers door lock working mechanically (no > actuators). > Key turned 45degrees only (not 90) to lock. > Then work with the lock actuator. Check to see if the 'motor' > connection is > open circuit (burned out). A momentary 12v or -12v should > open/close the > actuator. Then work on the A pillar connector and make sure > it looks ok. All good advice, I will spend some time this weekend sorting it out and making some headway. The particularly cold temps here in Ohio may be exacerbating the issues as the spring may be too weak to turn the mechanisms when it is this cold (but wasn't a problem this weekend when much warmer). > hope this helps You have always been a big help in this area Chris :-) Thanks, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 18:53:49 -0500 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rich says > Yes, I had a similar problem with my old E30 and used the trunk to actuate the locks. In this E30, the trunk has never work. I can slip the key into the keyhole, but I can't turn it in either direction... mine's only like that 6 months of the year.. $%^# E30 trunk locks in the winter!!! a lot of moisture sprays up onto the trunk lock area and I'm pretty sure I've changed mine a few years ago because it was seized (which sounds very similar to yours).. remove the cylinder and soak in something penetrating and you might be able to free it up > > All good advice, I will spend some time this weekend sorting it out and making some headway. The particularly cold temps here in Ohio may be exacerbating the issues as the spring may be too weak to turn the mechanisms when it is this cold (but wasn't a problem this weekend when much warmer). that's one of the reasons I removed all the power lock stuff from my car.. it worked fine until the weather was really crappy and then would go haywire.. twenty below, night, and I can't unlock my #$^$% car because it was teasing me.. sigh chrisP ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 12:25:31 -0600 From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [UCC] belt squeal? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My 328i E36 squeals while the engine is running at low RPMs. When I first heard the squeal I thought it was from the clutch but that is only because I heard it when the clutch was engaged in first gear. The squeal also occurs if you rev the engine then let it drop. When the RPMs bottom out the squeal starts. It sounds just like a belt squeal. It only happens when the car is warm though. This past weekend I wanted to check the tension of the belt but the Bentley does not list the belt deflection or any related info. It just says to rely on the belt tensioner. Is it possible the tensioner is wearing out? Hydraulics do weaken over time. Does anyone know what the belt deflection range should be? Is there a way to test the belt tensioner, like with a torque wrench or something? The belt seems fine and is not worn down nor cracked. I will end up replacing the belt this weekend but I dont want to find out that a belt alone is not the problem. Anyone had this problem be! fore? I am sure it must be pretty common. The biggest help would be if anyone knew what the belt deflection should be. Roy Collins '96 328i squealing machine ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 13:35:52 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: belt squeal? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > My 328i E36 squeals while the engine is running at low RPMs. Given you car's age, I'd probably go ahead and do the tensioner. also check the condition of the idler pullies that you can replace. I had one seize with catastrophic results in the middle of a long road trip (Missed a Mid Ohio DE because of it...grrrr) Marc Plante [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 13:58:01 -0500 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: belt squeal? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Roy, Start by checking your belt routing (both the serpentine and AC) to make sure they're correct. If they're not, the tension may be wrong and/or the wrong surface of the belt may be hitting one or more pulleys. If that's okay, then probably a tensioner or idler pulley has its bearing starting to go. I had a similar noise and replacing those items seems to have done the trick. On my '93, the AC has its own belt and a mini-shock-absorber tensioner. Since it's the cool season, you might start by popping that belt off and see if the squeal goes away. If so, you can replace that tensioner and pulley (and belt while you're at it) and solve your problem. If the squeal persists, you'll want to replace the mechanical (spring) tensioner and idler pulley on the serpentine. Good idea to do that belt while you're in there. Make sure you get the routing correct. Different sources may tell you different things, and I ended up having to resort to a little common sense to help sort it out. Gotcha on the AC tensioner... I had trouble getting the assembly disassembled to replace the mini-shock. I ended up half destroying the old one, and have no good advice on how better to deal with that... (Shoulda asked the UUC I guess.) Jay Herrick 1993 BMW 325is... different noises on different days... 1995 VW VR6 GTi... ditto ******** > My 328i E36 squeals while the engine is running at low RPMs. When I first heard the squeal I thought it was from the clutch but that is only because I heard it when the clutch was engaged in first gear. The squeal also occurs if you rev the engine then let it drop. When the RPMs bottom out the squeal starts. It sounds just like a belt squeal. It only happens when the car is warm though. This past weekend I wanted to check the tension of the belt but the Bentley does not list the belt deflection or any related info. It just says to rely on the belt tensioner. Is it possible the tensioner is wearing out? Hydraulics do weaken over time. Does anyone know what the belt deflection range should be? Is there a way to test the belt tensioner, like with a torque wrench or something? The belt seems fine and is not worn down nor cracked. I will end up replacing the belt this weekend but I dont want to find out that a belt alone is not the problem. Anyone had this problem be! > fore? I am sure it must be pretty common. The biggest help would be if anyone knew what the belt deflection should be. > > Roy Collins > > '96 328i squealing machine ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
