The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 119 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> Re: Exhaust hardware Re: E46 M3 track brake pads Re: E46 M3 track brake pads Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> NASA Pens and pencils, from the better late than never department Re: new 6-series sighting Street Survival Teen Safety School water pump mounting bolts....continued Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Re: Another gizmo to go with the Blind spot detector<non-BMW>
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 17:57:21 -0800 From: Greg Cagle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm sure you're right - the real reason I got the euro ones was for the driver's side mirror, which has the *same* curvature as the passenger side, instead of being flat like the US version. Much better visibility results. - Greg Brian Daley said the following on 3/31/2004 4:21 PM: > I'm pretty sure the lettering is just a US DOT requirement in the > spirit of the labels on hairdryers that says "Don't use in the > bathtub" or lawnmowers that say "Don't put hands or feet under the > mower while it's running." I'd hope the DOT wouldn't mandate a > curvature other than what the engineers decide provides the best > visibility, but then it wouldn't surprise me either... > > Brian '94 325ic -----Original Message----- From: Greg Cagle > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Mar 31, 2004 3:11 PM To: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Misguided R&D: Blind > Spot Detector <non-BMW> > > Gary - I was told at the time that they are the same curvature and > the euro one just doesn't have the lettering. That seems to be the > case according to my untrained eye 8^). > > - Greg > > Gary Derian said the following on 3/31/2004 2:18 PM: > > >> Greg, I have a question about the passenger side mirror. Is the >> curvature the same as the US mirror? >> >> Gary Derian >> >> >>> Actually I have the euro mirrors on both sides of my car, and >>> they help a lot. And they don't have the "Objects in Mirror" >>> wording on the passenger side, FWIW. >>> >>> - Greg >> >> >> >> Search the >> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> >> __________________________________________________________________________ >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the >> BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the >> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . >> http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> >> > > -- Greg Cagle gregc at gregcagle dot com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 22:29:00 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks, I was wondering. Gary Derian > Gary - I was told at the time that they are the same curvature and the > euro one just doesn't have the lettering. That seems to be the case > according to my untrained eye 8^). > > - Greg ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 22:15:31 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Here is an excerpt from CFR 49 Part 571.111 S5.4.2 Each convex mirror shall have permanently and indelibly marked at the lower edge of the mirror's reflective surface, in letters not less than 4.8 mm nor more than 6.4 mm high the words ``Objects in Mirror Are Closer Than They Appear.'' S5.4.3 The average radius of curvature of each such mirror, as determined by using the procedure in S12., shall be not less than 889 mm and not more than 1,651 mm. The mirror curvature is regulated, as is the flat mirror on the driver side. Gary Derian > I'm pretty sure the lettering is just a US DOT requirement in the spirit of the labels on hairdryers that says "Don't use in the bathtub" or lawnmowers that say "Don't put hands or feet under the mower while it's running." I'd hope the DOT wouldn't mandate a curvature other than what the engineers decide provides the best visibility, but then it wouldn't surprise me either... > > Brian > '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 22:57:47 -0500 From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Derian > Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 10:16 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> > > > Here is an excerpt from CFR 49 Part 571.111 > > S5.4.2 Each convex mirror shall have permanently and indelibly > marked at the lower edge of the mirror's reflective surface, in letters > not less than 4.8 mm nor more than 6.4 mm high the words ``Objects in > Mirror Are Disappearing Rapidly.'' > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 22:30:53 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Exhaust hardware Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Stainless on stainless galls so avoid that. Copper nuts are good. Actually nearly anything works if you use anti-seize. Gary Derian > Guys, > > What is the preferred hardware (bolts/nuts) to use in the exhaust section > flanges? These are the sections post converter. Is stainless appropriate? > > -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 22:27:09 -0600 From: Mark and Heather Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E46 M3 track brake pads Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think a lot of you guys on this list are ready to go take the bar exam so you can become attorneys.... I've driven my E30 M3 on the street with the following track pads over the last THREE YEARS. Pagid Orange Ferodo DS 3000 Carbotech ?? and most recently, Hawk HT-10 I decided to try the HT-10s recently and the jury is still out (I am nonplussed after my first track weekend). Anyway, I've NEVER remotely felt like my car would have a problem stopping... As a matter of fact, I LOVE the way that the Ferodo DS-3000s feel on the street... If there's anything I am worried about, it's people hitting me in the rear! Granted, I am in Texas, and the absolute coldest weather it's been here is probably about 21 degrees. ... I recently swapped cars with a friend of mine who has the same car and had OE pads... I drove my normal highway route home ( so the brakes are really cool right?) and screamed toward my favorite tight 270 degree cloverleaf exit to my house and stomped the brakes and nearly overshot the exit.. Damn street pads! My Ferodos would have stopped me RIGHT THERE RIGHT NOW! Don't like the squeal of a track pad on the street? Brake later and harder and they won't squeal...Stop coasting up to the light with the brakes on for 100 yards... I also have found that my track pads don't squeal for several weeks after a track event... If you guys think that a pad that is not up to "operating temp" has any problem stopping the disc, you guys are crazy... You've got hydraulic force from power brakes compressing a HIGH FRICTION track pad on the rotor.. Even stone cold, the brakes will stop the car and can induce lock up or ABS... Stop being sheep, wake up and smell the race fuel, and save yourself an hour on the way home from the track... Dennis, I am in your corner, I got your back baby... What a bunch of namby pambys these guys are... (whiny voice) /Gee... my car might not have 100% stopping power the first two stops... /Heck... I am not out of my frigging *subdivision* and the pads are up to temp... Mark Williams Dallas, TX ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 09:38:06 -0500 (EST) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mark and Heather Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E46 M3 track brake pads Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, 31 Mar 2004, Mark and Heather Williams wrote: > driven my E30 M3 on the street with the following track > pads over the last THREE YEARS. > Hawk HT-10 I had trouble keeping the HT10s warm enough to work on the pace lap of a race on a 32ish degree day. I believe the mfgr quotes a working temp range for that pad of 600-1400 degrees. joel ITS #15 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 20:38:50 -0800 (PST) From: willie yeo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In normal traffic conditions, I apply the rearview mirror, side mirror and then signal followed by lane change.. However, in heavy traffic where all lanes are hardly moving, the rearview mirror check is optional but when you throw in bikes traffic zipping in between lanes. Thing are different. --- Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > on 3/31/04 5:19 PM, Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > > > Yes: a useful acronym my (street) driving > instructor told me when I was > > learning to drive was "SMOG": Signal, Mirror (ie. > rear view mirror, not > > side mirrors), (look) Over the shoulder, and Go. > > Good principle, wrong implementation. > > It should always be "look" first whether mirror or > head turn. Otherwise > you're signaling intent before you have information > about the surrounding > environment. > > Example: you want to change lanes, and there happens > to be a car coming up > behind you in the lane you plan to occupy. You > signal but you don't look > first, so you don't know he's there. Now what's he > supposed to do? What do > you do? There's no right answer. > > However if you look first, you know he's there. Now > *you control* the > sequence of events. You can decide to let him pass > first, or you decide > there's time for you to pull out, you change your > mind, or whatever. > > I was taught: mirror, signal, maneuver. No handy > acronym, but makes better > sense. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 08:22:50 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: NASA Pens and pencils, from the better late than never department Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> By the way, I meant to post this back when this topic was circulating last week, but as much as I like the story of NASA spending huge dollars to develop a fancy schmancy pen when the Russkies used a pencil, it ain't the case. witness: http://www.snopes.com/business/genius/spacepen.asp Rgds, Chris Whitney back to lurking ------------------------------------------------------ This message was sent using Delmarva Online's Webmail. http://www.dmv.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2004 13:56:44 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: new 6-series sighting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To try and bring this back to BMWC - has anyone seen the new 6er yet? Saw a 6er cabrio on Saturday...in the area of UUC Headquarters no less... but I doubt anyone in that orginization would drive a cabrio. ;-) It was at a light going the opposite direction. So I only got a good 3/4 view from the front. I didn't think it looked any better than the new 5er. (Which I think looks nice.) Gilbert _________________________________________________________________ Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage. Multiple plans available. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 12:18:36 -0500 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Street Survival Teen Safety School Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The Bluegrass Bimmers (Louisville KY) are planning a Street Survival Teen Safety School, April 10th and has some opening for students. If you are not aware of this great program for new drivers aged 16-19 please look at the web site - http://www.bmwccafoundation.org/dss_index.asp If you have any questions please forward them to me - [EMAIL PROTECTED] or they can call at 502-458-4885. Bill Wade '88 Henna M3 Bluegrass Bimmers Driving Event Coordinator Street Survival Chief Instructor ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 12:09:45 -0600 From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: water pump mounting bolts....continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for all the advice guys. Last night I went in to try one last time to get the broken stud out without drilling. I soaked PB blaster on there for an hour. Then I came back in and tried to vice-grip it out. I was able to get enough grip to spin the remaining 1/4 inch of the stud off. The good news to this is the stud is now flush with the timing chain cover so drilling will be easier. So my next question is how do you drill and tap this? I have never done it before but I will be assisted by a decent mechanic. He has done it many times but says he hates doing it. I just wanted some background info. I read up on it on Google and it seems pretty straight forward. I found out that I need a 5mm drill bit and such. Is there any other info I should have a heads up on. I plan on working on it this weekend. Of course I am going to try and use the extraction kit first since I have to drill anyway. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Roy Collins Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 4:05 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] water pump mounting bolts Do the water pump bolts that go into the timing chain cover come out? I was replacing my water pump and one of the bolts broke. They are the 4 headless bolts that screw into the timing chain cover. The ons you fasten the water pump onto with nuts. Mine broke off with about a 1/4 inch sticking out of the timing chain cover. Its too small to remove by locking 2 nuts back to back on it. Since the bolts are headless you can just unscrew them with a socket or anything. I tried to unscrew it by clamping down on it with vise-grips but I could not get enough grip. The bolt didnt seem to move at all and the vise-grips just slipped around. I was wondering if anyone has ever had a similar problem. I guess just reassurance that the bolts do in fact come out would be enough. In case you are not sure what I am talking about it is the bolts that hold the water pump on as seen in figure 19 on page 170-11 in the Bentley. Has anyone ever had one of these bolts break before? How hard is it to drill and tap those if it comes down to it? It seems like anytime you work on a car you end up replacing more than just the parts you intended. I ran out of time yesterday working on this so I figured I would ask the list for advice before I get the drill out. Thanks Roy Collins 96 328i almost with a new water pump Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 10:26:01 -0800 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Thu, Apr 01, 2004 at 12:09:45PM -0600, Roy T. Collins wrote: > hour. Then I came back in and tried to vice-grip it out. I was able to get enough grip to spin the remaining 1/4 inch of the stud off. The good news to this is the stud is now flush with the timing chain cover so drilling will be easier. So my next question is how do you drill and tap this? > If you can (and if you need to), use a dremel to flatten the end of the stud. Then it's easier to use a center punch to make an indent in the end of the stud so that the drill won't walk around when you start to drill into it. After you have a hole in the stud, it's a simple matter to twist the screw extractor into it. Before the stud unscrews from the hole, the super-hardened-steel extractor will break off flush with the end of the stud. This is your warning that you didn't let the PB blaster soak in long enough. Anyway, now it's impossible to remove the stud, so you don't have to worry about it any longer. Put it back together anyway, use a lot of silicone sealant around the broken stud area to make up for a lack of fastener. Sell car. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 13:23:50 -0500 From: "Steve Stoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Snip << The good news to this is the stud is now flush with the timing chain cover so drilling will be easier. So my next question is how do you drill and tap this? I found out that I need a 5mm drill bit and such. "Is there any other info I should have a heads up on. I plan on working on it this weekend. Of course I am going to try and use the extraction kit first since I have to drill anyway. >> If it were my engine, I'd remove the timing cover and get a stud remover on there and do the job right.... Steve Stoner --- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 10:38:03 -0800 From: "Grant Low" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Another gizmo to go with the Blind spot detector<non-BMW> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Matthews > > Infiniti to offer lane-departure warning system <snip> > It is temporarily disabled by driver activation of the > vehicle's turn signals, however, and can be turned off with a > manual switch when desired. <snip> This sounds like a good thing to me! It would basically force people to use their turn signals when changing lanes. That would be a lot nicer than the way people fly from lane to lane now without any warning. Of course it's a nanny device and kind of intrusive, but especially out here in CA, you could remove the stalk on the left and way too many people wouldn't even notice. Grant ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
