The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 120 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: CD changer question Re: CD changer question Re: CD changer question OT - Hardware Engineer Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued e34 OBC display reading a bunch of garbage E46 M3 wheel fitment E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem Re: E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem PF5 Re: <E36> climate control cuts out
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 1 Apr 2004 10:54:25 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: CD changer question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Here?: <http://www.soundgate.com/products/cd/bmw-mini.htm> More info here: <http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e34/stereo/e34_cd_changer.html> and here: <http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/stereo/all_cd_changer_info.html> Does anyone know where to buy a new CDX_M30? Curt Ingraham 72 2002tii Oakland, CA Brett wrote: > Does anyone know of a source for a CD changer adapter cable for a 92 E34 > 525i? > > Need to connect one of these two changers to the factory Pioneer head unit: > changer 1 - pioneer CDX-M30 > changer 2 - pioneer CDX-M61 > > If anyone has a source for an adapter set, please let me know. Crutchfields > no longer has them available. > > Thanks > > Brett Anderson > KMS ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2004 13:29:50 -0600 From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: CD changer question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://peripheralelectronics.com/2002/cd_changer/bmw.asp http://www.autosoundgear.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=jnpmrml4 http://www.blitzsafe.com/blitz_catalog/blitz_interfaces/blitz_interface_list/blitz_bmw/blitz_bmw.html Looks like the BMW/PIO V.1 would work. Dennis 01 M5 silver/black > > Does anyone know of a source for a CD changer adapter cable for a 92 E34 > > 525i? > > > > Need to connect one of these two changers to the factory Pioneer head unit: > > changer 1 - pioneer CDX-M30 > > changer 2 - pioneer CDX-M61 > > > > If anyone has a source for an adapter set, please let me > know. Crutchfields > > no longer has them available. > > > > Thanks > > > > Brett Anderson > > KMS >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2004 14:08:56 -0500 From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: CD changer question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I doubt you will find a new one, but there appears to be 3 for sale on Ebay. Search for CDX M30. -Tom >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 04/01/04 01:54PM >>> Here?: <http://www.soundgate.com/products/cd/bmw-mini.htm> More info here: <http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e34/stereo/e34_cd_changer.html> and here: <http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/stereo/all_cd_changer_info.html> Does anyone know where to buy a new CDX_M30? Curt Ingraham 72 2002tii Oakland, CA Brett wrote: > Does anyone know of a source for a CD changer adapter cable for a 92 E34 > 525i? > > Need to connect one of these two changers to the factory Pioneer head unit: > changer 1 - pioneer CDX-M30 > changer 2 - pioneer CDX-M61 > > If anyone has a source for an adapter set, please let me know. Crutchfields > no longer has them available. > > Thanks > > Brett Anderson > KMS Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 14:47:22 -0700 From: Peter B Du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: OT - Hardware Engineer Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I seem to recall from a previous posting that there is an unemployed hardware engineer on the list. If there is, please contact me off-list. Thanks, Peter B. du Bois 520.545.9371 520.489.5960 pager [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 16:52:33 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Don't waste your time with the extraction kit. You'll break it off and be totally screwed. They don't work in scenarios like this unless you can get heat on to the area, and even then, the heat usually screws up the extractor and, while it doesn't break, it also doesn't work.... Skip the agrivation and strong possibility of f*cking up the cover beyond repair, and just drill it out. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Thanks for all the advice guys. Last night I went in to try one > last time to get the broken stud out without drilling. I soaked > PB blaster on there for an hour. Then I came back in and tried > to vice-grip it out. I was able to get enough grip to spin the > remaining 1/4 inch of the stud off. The good news to this is the > stud is now flush with the timing chain cover so drilling will be > easier. So my next question is how do you drill and tap this? I > have never done it before but I will be assisted by a decent > mechanic. He has done it many times but says he hates doing it. > I just wanted some background info. I read up on it on Google > and it seems pretty straight forward. I found out that I need a > 5mm drill bit and such. Is there any other info I should have a > heads up on. I plan on working on it this weekend. Of course I > am going to try and use the extraction kit first since I have to > drill anyway. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.642 / Virus Database: 410 - Release Date: 3/24/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 17:00:34 -0500 From: "Steve Stoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett, Is the stud on the valve cover, or through the valve cover to the block? I was thinking (danger, danger) the stud is through the cover, in which case removing the cover gets access to stud and a stud insert/removal tool would do the trick. I've got a stud tool purchased years ago at Sears when I put headers on my 2002..... Steve Stoner Brett wrote <Don't waste your time with the extraction kit. You'll break it off and be <totally screwed. They don't work in scenarios like this unless you can get <heat on to the area, and even then, the heat usually screws up the extractor <and, while it doesn't break, it also doesn't work.... < <Skip the agrivation and strong possibility of f*cking up the cover beyond <repair, and just drill it out. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Thanks for all the advice guys. Last night I went in to try one > last time to get the broken stud out without drilling. I soaked > PB blaster on there for an hour. Then I came back in and tried > to vice-grip it out. I was able to get enough grip to spin the > remaining 1/4 inch of the stud off. The good news to this is the > stud is now flush with the timing chain cover so drilling will be > easier. So my next question is how do you drill and tap this? I > have never done it before but I will be assisted by a decent > mechanic. He has done it many times but says he hates doing it. > I just wanted some background info. I read up on it on Google > and it seems pretty straight forward. I found out that I need a > 5mm drill bit and such. Is there any other info I should have a > heads up on. I plan on working on it this weekend. Of course I > am going to try and use the extraction kit first since I have to > drill anyway. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.642 / Virus Database: 410 - Release Date: 3/24/2004 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 16:41:28 -0600 From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The stud is on the timing chain cover. I assume it does not go all the way back to the block. It is only a 30mm stud and about 1/2 of it sticks out normally. The problem is the stud is broken off flush with the cover so drilling is the only option. Basically everyone on the list said that the extraction tool will not work and will only make things worse. So I am going to just dril it out and be done with it. Which brings me to my next question. How difficult is it to remove the timing chain cover. I am going to look it over in the Bently tonight but if anyone has any heads up please let me know. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve Stoner Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 4:01 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] water pump mounting bolts....continued Brett, Is the stud on the valve cover, or through the valve cover to the block? I was thinking (danger, danger) the stud is through the cover, in which case removing the cover gets access to stud and a stud insert/removal tool would do the trick. I've got a stud tool purchased years ago at Sears when I put headers on my 2002..... Steve Stoner Brett wrote <Don't waste your time with the extraction kit. You'll break it off and be <totally screwed. They don't work in scenarios like this unless you can get <heat on to the area, and even then, the heat usually screws up the extractor <and, while it doesn't break, it also doesn't work.... < <Skip the agrivation and strong possibility of f*cking up the cover beyond <repair, and just drill it out. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Thanks for all the advice guys. Last night I went in to try one > last time to get the broken stud out without drilling. I soaked > PB blaster on there for an hour. Then I came back in and tried > to vice-grip it out. I was able to get enough grip to spin the > remaining 1/4 inch of the stud off. The good news to this is the > stud is now flush with the timing chain cover so drilling will be > easier. So my next question is how do you drill and tap this? I > have never done it before but I will be assisted by a decent > mechanic. He has done it many times but says he hates doing it. > I just wanted some background info. I read up on it on Google > and it seems pretty straight forward. I found out that I need a > 5mm drill bit and such. Is there any other info I should have a > heads up on. I plan on working on it this weekend. Of course I > am going to try and use the extraction kit first since I have to > drill anyway. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.642 / Virus Database: 410 - Release Date: 3/24/2004 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2004 08:53:25 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Roy, You can try to cut a slot in the end of the stud with a Dremel and back it out with a screwdriver, or get yourself a left hand drill bit--as you run the drill in reverse it will bite into the stud and back it out. Marc '95 325is a few mods. **************************************************************************** ******** This message has been checked for all known viruses! **************************************************************************** ******** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2004 08:42:32 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: water pump mounting bolts....continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Removing the cover is a lot more work than it's worth. Easier to drill it out with the cover removed, but the total job time and effort makes it easier to drill it out with the cover in place. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > The stud is on the timing chain cover. I assume it does not go > all the way back to the block. It is only a 30mm stud and about > 1/2 of it sticks out normally. The problem is the stud is broken > off flush with the cover so drilling is the only option. > Basically everyone on the list said that the extraction tool will > not work and will only make things worse. So I am going to just > dril it out and be done with it. Which brings me to my next > question. How difficult is it to remove the timing chain cover. I > am going to look it over in the Bently tonight but if anyone has > any heads up please let me know. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.642 / Virus Database: 410 - Release Date: 3/24/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 15:26:29 -0800 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: e34 OBC display reading a bunch of garbage Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I'm familiar with replacing the three bulbs in the OBC when it is dim or goes, out...But the display in question lights up fine... The problems is that there are funny looking characters/symbols that show up in the display. What is causing this? If I simply unplug it and plug it back in will it come back to showing normal alphanumeric characters? Chris ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 22:35:09 -0800 From: "Marvin Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E46 M3 wheel fitment Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Original posting: Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 23:52:42 -0500 From: Andy Grigor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E46 M3 wheel fitment Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I would like to hear from anyone who has witnessed the fitment of a BBS RK (one piece) wheel, 18"x8.5" w/ 38mm offset, on an E46 M3. Obviously, it is the front fitment that is in question. BBS literature says it is not a fit, thus Tire Rack says it is not a fit. However, I know that a BBS RK, 17"x8" w/ 40mm offset, fits on my 2004 M3 (3mm clearance between spokes and caliber vs. 5mm clearance on stock 18" wheel). BBS also has the two-piece 18"x8.5" RK which they say fits. Trying to make sure this isn't US marketing at work to make us M3 owners purchase the much more expensive 2-piece RKs. - Andy ============================================== For comparison, the 2003 330i Performance Package front wheels are 18x8.0 with 41mm offset. Tires are 225/40x18. I tried putting a rear wheel on the front. It fit statically, but I did not drive it in that condition. The rear wheel is 18x8.5 with 50 mm offset and 255/35x18 tire. Note that these were the original factory wheels, not BBS. Now, another question: What is the biggest tire that will fit on the front of the 330i PP with the factory wheels and no fender rolling or other modifications? Marvin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 19:16:05 -0500 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am hoping to a get a quick and dirty answer here. Question: Chilton says to jumper the fuel pump relay sockets #30 and #87 to run the pump even with the ignition off. This did NOT work on the non-running 1988 325iX. It DID work on my running 1989 325iX. Now, I know that there was a fuel system change from 1988 to 1989, but I don't recall the exact details (went from one pump to two?). Can someone confirm for me that the test above works on the 1988 system? In which case I have a failed pump. Thanks, Stan Background (if you need it): My 1988 325iX died very suddenly last winter while driving. Without any warning or symptoms I simply lost fuel pressure and the car would not run. I was able to re-start it once or twice for 30 seconds or a minute. At the time, I thought perhaps ice in the tank had broken free and clogged the fuel filter. After getting it home, I tried warming the fuel filter and waiting for warmer weather. A few days after it died, I was able to get it running. It stayed running for close to 10 minutes. It then died again and has not started since. As I seem to "collect" iXs, I put a different one on the road. Now I am back to getting this one running, since it obviously was not ice in the fuel. Using the Chilton manual (I know it is generally a poor manual, but I got it free, it covers the AWD stuff, and my brother has hidden or misplaced his Bentley so I could not use that), I started troubleshooting. The fuel pump relay is fine. Now go back up to the question. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 20:29:42 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Stan Jackson Jr.) Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From Stan Jackson Jr. > >I am hoping to a get a quick and dirty answer here. > >Question: >Chilton says to jumper the fuel pump relay sockets #30 and #87 to run >the pump even with the ignition off. This did NOT work on the >non-running 1988 325iX. It DID work on my running 1989 325iX. Now, I >know that there was a fuel system change from 1988 to 1989, but I don't >recall the exact details (went from one pump to two?). Can someone >confirm for me that the test above works on the 1988 system? In which >case I have a failed pump. > >Thanks, > >Stan > I have personal experience here around Christmas with my '87 325i. Bypassing that relay should cause the pump to run. In 88 (89?) they changed from the two pump setup to the single pump setup. To the best of my knowledge, that was the extent of the change. If jumpering the relay doesn't work, cut to the chase and pop the rear seat. Pull the access cover to the pump and stick a volt meter on the pump connector. If you get 12v it is a bad pump. If not, then you get to do some more trouble shooting. Make sure you have voltage to the relay (terminal 30, I think) and that the fuse is good (#21 I think). There is nothing else in this circuit, so if you have power up front, but not at the back, there is a break in the wire. In my case, this was the problem. There is a factory splice under the back seat on the driver's side of the car. Mine rotted off and disconnected both my pumps. If you only have one pump, then you may not have the splice. In my car the wire in question was a green wire with a purple stripe. >Background (if you need it): >My 1988 325iX died very suddenly last winter while driving. Without any >warning or symptoms I simply lost fuel pressure and the car would not >run. I was able to re-start it once or twice for 30 seconds or a >minute. At the time, I thought perhaps ice in the tank had broken free >and clogged the fuel filter. After getting it home, I tried warming the >fuel filter and waiting for warmer weather. A few days after it died, I >was able to get it running. It stayed running for close to 10 minutes. >It then died again and has not started since. As I seem to "collect" >iXs, I put a different one on the road. Mine did the same intermitent thing for over a month while I replaced the pumps one at a time, each time thinking I had fixed the problem. It wasn't until the coldest week of the winter that it decided to quit entirely. In my case, the mix of corrosion, dirt, and moisture made a situation where there was no power going to the pumps, but 2A going through the fuse. It didn't really fail in a meaningful way until I poked at it and it fell apart. Luckily for you, you only have the in tank pump. That takes about 30 minutes to replace and you don't even have to crawl under the car. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 21:10:29 -0500 From: "Kathy Lyle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMWUUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: PF5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Duane and all, including Rich - Rick Bebbee to you, according to Duane- for a great couple of days. Brett is still grinning ear to ear from both the Roos cars and the go karts. We had a great time the whole event, even if we did miss Christie's (I have a niece in college so I give her my tuition money; perhaps after she graduates I can turn it back to the lovely student/employees of Christie's). I am bruised across my entire body from the Roos cars (both upper arms from propping up on the chassis for seat changes, and 2nd/4th gear shifts on the right) and also the karts (bruised ribs and spine) not to mention the muscle soreness. Ok, so I'm out of shape. I also have several excuses for my performance; would you like the one about the car(t), the track or the weather? ;-) Kathy ---- Kathryn M. Lyle, CPA, CVA Lyle & Associates CPA www.lylecpa.com Creating Business Value ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2004 10:28:07 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> climate control cuts out Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Many thanks to those who responded to my issue with E36 digital climate control. Best I can tell, the problem is where the connector is soddered to the board. I touched all of this up... but with no change in behavior. Rats. I give up, ordered a reman unit from The BMW Store (on a tip from Neil). $236+ship, $100 less than my local dealer wants for the same reman unit. Now I need to carry a slide ruler to convert deg-C to deg-F, but WTF;) - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, starting to show its age ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
