The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 510 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Valve timing E30 Power Locks Fixed <longish> Re: E30 Power Locks Fixed <longish> Re: <OT> Re: E39 Purchase Questions/ bmwe39 group <E36> Outside Mirror car won't start...please advice Re: <E36> Outside Mirror Re: <E36> Outside Mirror - addendum
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 15:29:40 -0600 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've noticed the unmanned radar trailer now in use in my area (you know, they one that flashes digital numbers to tell you your speed) no longer sets off my V1. Could this be a new radar frequency? I know my V1 is several yrs old (bought in August 2000) but when I entered the s/n to get an upgrade quote on Valentine web site, the answer came back that the performance difference would be negligible and I should just stick with what I have unless I want the thinner lighter weight model....and for almost $200, I'm inclined to just live with what I have unless there's a new frequency in use. Any others have similar experiences? Oh, BTW the area I'm referring to is Ft. Walton Beach, FL in the panhandle. TIA Phil 92 E36/M50 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 13:35:24 -0800 From: "Ziv Gillat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hei, This happened to me too (K band). Exactly as you've mentioned it. I sent my V1 back for repair, and they claim that one of the components became loose from the PCB. They replaced it, and now everything is ok again :-) I just followed their process online for sending it back. Good luck --- Ziv. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2005 1:30 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] <OT> New radar not registering on V1 I've noticed the unmanned radar trailer now in use in my area (you know, they one that flashes digital numbers to tell you your speed) no longer sets off my V1. Could this be a new radar frequency? I know my V1 is several yrs old (bought in August 2000) but when I entered the s/n to get an upgrade quote on Valentine web site, the answer came back that the performance difference would be negligible and I should just stick with what I have unless I want the thinner lighter weight model....and for almost $200, I'm inclined to just live with what I have unless there's a new frequency in use. Any others have similar experiences? Oh, BTW the area I'm referring to is Ft. Walton Beach, FL in the panhandle. TIA Phil 92 E36/M50 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 15:35:29 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Have you tried emailing Valentine tech support? They have been very good at getting back to me when I asked them questions in the past. The email link is somewhere on their website IIRC. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2002 330i 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 17:01:34 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The new ones use acoustic sensors like digital cameras' range finders They aren't detected by anyone's detectors and are not admissible in court. Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I've noticed the unmanned radar trailer now in use in my area (you > know, they one that flashes digital numbers to tell you your speed) no > longer sets off my V1. Could this be a new radar frequency? I know > my V1 is several yrs old (bought in August 2000) but when I entered > the s/n to get an upgrade quote on Valentine web site, the answer came > back that the performance difference would be negligible and I should > just stick with what I have unless I want the thinner lighter weight > model....and for almost $200, I'm inclined to just live with what I > have unless there's a new frequency in use. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.2 - Release Date: 1/21/2005 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 17:26:47 -0500 From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Technically, current autofocus cameras use one of two types of rangefinder methods: 1) infrared beam 2) comparative contast image (mostly SLR-type) Acoustic (actually ultrasonic) has only been used in the past few decades by Polaroid's SX-70 film camera, which is no longer available (but highly sought-after). - Rob On Jan 23, 2005, at 5:01 PM, Ed MacVaugh wrote: > The new ones use acoustic sensors like digital cameras' range finders > They aren't detected by anyone's detectors and are not admissible in > court. > > Ed > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> I've noticed the unmanned radar trailer now in use in my area (you >> know, they one that flashes digital numbers to tell you your speed) >> no longer sets off my V1. Could this be a new radar frequency? I >> know my V1 is several yrs old (bought in August 2000) but when I >> entered the s/n to get an upgrade quote on Valentine web site, the >> answer came back that the performance difference would be negligible >> and I should just stick with what I have unless I want the thinner >> lighter weight model....and for almost $200, I'm inclined to just >> live with what I have unless there's a new frequency in use. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 16:33:27 -0600 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Ed. If not admissible in court, that must mean there's no traceable calibration standard. I didn't think there was anything wrong with the detector, just wondering about what technology I was encountering. One week the V1 was reading it, the next it wasn't. I wonder what drove the change? Maybe I should email Mike V. and see if he knows. Phil 92 E36/M50 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2005 4:01 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] <OT> New radar not registering on V1 > The new ones use acoustic sensors like digital cameras' range finders > They aren't detected by anyone's detectors and are not admissible in > court. > > Ed > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> I've noticed the unmanned radar trailer now in use in my area (you >> know, they one that flashes digital numbers to tell you your speed) >> no longer sets off my V1. Could this be a new radar frequency? I >> know my V1 is several yrs old (bought in August 2000) but when I >> entered the s/n to get an upgrade quote on Valentine web site, the >> answer came back that the performance difference would be negligible >> and I should just stick with what I have unless I want the thinner >> lighter weight model....and for almost $200, I'm inclined to just >> live with what I have unless there's a new frequency in use. > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.2 - Release Date: 1/21/2005 > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 19:03:23 -0500 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I found my first one of these a bit over 2 years ago. I came home and got Kathy's V1 out of her car and went past the thing a couple more times, trying both V1s with no result. We had dinner with Mike not long after and asked him about it. At the time, he didn't have a ready answer, but what Ed says makes sense to me. Brett Anderson KMS > Thanks Ed. If not admissible in court, that must mean there's no > traceable calibration standard. I didn't think there was anything wrong > with the detector, just wondering about what technology I was > encountering. One week the V1 was reading it, the next it wasn't. I > wonder what drove the change? Maybe I should email Mike V. and see if > he knows. > > Phil > 92 E36/M50 > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 14:11:30 -0800 (PST) From: igor koruga <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Valve timing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, Does anyone knows when, in crankshaft degrees, intake valve on E30 eta or "i" starts to open? (or same for exhaust valve). Regards, Igor BMW CCA GGC __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do? http://my.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 17:22:17 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30 Power Locks Fixed <longish> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I know everyone has been losing sleep wondering what happened with the intermittant power locks in our '91 325iA.They're fixed. And it is a fix of which Rob Siegel would be proud, if he had any clue who the heck I am. When we last left the story, I had sprayed the driver's door jamb connector, pins and all, with Liquid Wrench, as recommended by Gary D. Today I put a couple of screwdrivers in the slots to hold the two clips apart from the connector, grabbed the wires, and through a combination of wiggling and pulling, got the connector to separate. Thanks to everyone for the Liquid Wrench/pull/wiggle suggestions, it was all necessary. Examing the connector, one of the pins from the car-side of the connector was corroded and, in fact, broke off. The green remains of the pin were still attached to the door-side part of the connector. So I pulled the car-side part of the connector out of the jamb and out through the speaker opening. It was a red wire with a black stripe. I'll just look this up in the ETM. You know how I'm always complaining about seemingly unnecessary electrical complication in the newer BMWs? Well, apparently they were learning the technique with the E30. There is nothing actually in the door that operates off of the red/black wire. But it is the wire that powers the lock control module. Try to follow along at home now, here is the path. Fuse 27 Red/black wire Connector 405 (this is our friend the door jamb connector) Splice to two other wires: - One is not used - The other goes back into connector 405 Lock control module (behind the driver's side kick panel, below the speaker) That's right, the power to the lock control module goes through the door for absolutely no obvious reason. Anyway, I cut away the insulation on the two red/black wires next to the car-part of the connector and connected a jumper. Everything worked, multiple times. So I removed the jumper, cut the wires, stripped them and spliced them together. Now everything is back together and working. It was a relatively quick and easy fix, except for the part where I bought a replacement lock control module that I didn't need. The only remaining task is getting the rubber boot back over the connecter in the door jamb. It is not obvious to me the best way to get it on. My thought now is to back out the connector, put on the boot, and then push the connector-with-boot back on as a unit. Anyone agree with that? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 21:21:23 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E30 Power Locks Fixed <longish> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you have heated locks, it is used. Ed Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: >I know everyone has been losing sleep wondering what happened with the >intermittant power locks in our '91 325iA.They're fixed. And it is a >fix of which Rob Siegel would be proud, if he had any clue who the >heck I am. > >When we last left the story, I had sprayed the driver's door jamb >connector, pins and all, with Liquid Wrench, as recommended by Gary D. >Today I put a couple of screwdrivers in the slots to hold the two >clips apart from the connector, grabbed the wires, and through a >combination of wiggling and pulling, got the connector to separate. >Thanks to everyone for the Liquid Wrench/pull/wiggle suggestions, it >was all necessary. > >Examing the connector, one of the pins from the car-side of the >connector was corroded and, in fact, broke off. The green remains of >the pin were still attached to the door-side part of the connector. >So I pulled the car-side part of the connector out of the jamb and out >through the speaker opening. It was a red wire with a black stripe. >I'll just look this up in the ETM. > >You know how I'm always complaining about seemingly unnecessary >electrical complication in the newer BMWs? Well, apparently they were >learning the technique with the E30. There is nothing actually in the >door that operates off of the red/black wire. But it is the wire that >powers the lock control module. Try to follow along at home now, here >is the path. > >Fuse 27 >Red/black wire >Connector 405 (this is our friend the door jamb connector) >Splice to two other wires: > - One is not used > - The other goes back into connector 405 >Lock control module (behind the driver's side kick panel, below the >speaker) > >That's right, the power to the lock control module goes through the >door for absolutely no obvious reason. Anyway, I cut away the >insulation on the two red/black wires next to the car-part of the >connector and connected a jumper. Everything worked, multiple times. >So I removed the jumper, cut the wires, stripped them and spliced them >together. Now everything is back together and working. It was a >relatively quick and easy fix, except for the part where I bought a >replacement lock control module that I didn't need. > >The only remaining task is getting the rubber boot back over the >connecter in the door jamb. It is not obvious to me the best way to >get it on. My thought now is to back out the connector, put on the >boot, and then push the connector-with-boot back on as a unit. Anyone >agree with that? > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA > > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.2 - Release Date: 1/21/2005 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 17:56:02 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <OT> Re: E39 Purchase Questions/ bmwe39 group Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Avi Heroor wrote: > > You can learn everything about anything with Google! :) --- JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > And you can learn all you want about age discrimination by trying to > get hired there. Or at Hooters! ;-) Carlos. (nope never applied there, thnk goodness) :-) 88 325is 93 325is __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 23:23:36 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Outside Mirror Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The driver's side mirror will not slew vertically. I spent time this weekend cleaning the switch but no relief. The mirror switch when activated for vertical adjustment will move the mirror side to side not up and down. The passenger mirror is fine. Does the door skin have to be removed to replace or fix the mirror? This is the 1999 M3 "sport" mirror. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 06:20:09 -0800 (PST) From: Jay Guillermo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: car won't start...please advice Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, I have a 328i E46 that won't start this morning. I'm in NJ and we just had a blizzard this past weekend. It would turn a couple of times but won't fire up. After a couple more tries, the engine won't even turn now. I simply here clicking sound, which I think indicates that the battery is okay. What do I need to check? I never had this problem before. Please advice. Thanks, Jay __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do? http://my.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:28:02 -0500 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> Outside Mirror Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The electromagnetic clutch in the mirror has probably failed. You have to remove the door panel to get to the connector. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > The driver's side mirror will not slew vertically. I spent time this > weekend cleaning the switch but no relief. The mirror switch when > activated > for vertical adjustment will move the mirror side to side not up and down. > > The passenger mirror is fine. > > Does the door skin have to be removed to replace or fix the mirror? > > This is the 1999 M3 "sport" mirror. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:28:49 -0500 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> Outside Mirror - addendum Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If the problem is the clutch, you don't need to remove the mirror (or door panel) to replace it, just the glass. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > This is the 1999 M3 "sport" mirror. ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
