The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 511 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: car won't start...please advice
  Re: car won't start...please advice
  Re: car won't start...please advice
  Re: car won't start...please advice
  M3 no heatie the feeties.....
  Lift time rental?
  Re: Lift time rental?
  Re: Lift time rental?
  Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1
  Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1
  Cold start stalling -  E30
  Re: Cold start stalling -  E30
  Re: car won't start...please advice
  FS - 91 535 5spd
  Re: E30 Power Locks Fixed 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 06:47:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: car won't start...please advice
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sounds like your battery went south (wish I could join
it <g>). Try a jump start or one of those battery
booster packs. If it starts, then go to your choice of
dealer, favorite independent, or Sears to get the
battery and charging system checked.

Jon<---in Boston, where we had a *real* blizzard and
the E34 started right up. Heh.

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 06:20:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay Guillermo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: 
Message-ID: 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi,

I have a 328i E46 that won't start this morning.  
I'm in NJ
and we just had a blizzard this past weekend.  

It would turn a couple of times but won't fire 
up.  After a
couple more tries, the engine won't even turn 
now.  I
simply here clicking sound, which I think 
indicates that
the battery is okay.

What do I need to check?  I never had this 
problem before. 
Please advice.


Thanks,
Jay




                
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:47:37 -0500
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: car won't start...please advice
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Jay,

Actually, it still sounds like it could be a battery.  Do the
interior/dash lights come on?  If you have a multimeter or volt-ohm
meter (as some are) you can check the voltage on the battery.  If it is
below about 11.5 Volts that could be your problem.  It is freakin' cold
here in Detroit today (-5degF this morning) and I expect there too and
that tends to affect battery chemistry.  If you do suspect the battery
and you've got another battery/vehicle, you can try jumpstarting it.  

With my 17.5 HP lawn tractor (tried it as a plow one year - wrong tires,
got stuck), I found that once when it wouldn't start in the cold I was
able to remove the battery, take it inside and let it warm up to room
temperature -- when I reinstalled it, the warmth promoted better
reactions and I was able to start the tractor.  (Don't try to expedite
the process by putting the battery in or near a stove/microwave/fire.)  :-)

If the battery is okay, then you could be looking at a problem with the
starter (which I've experienced in the cold on a VW before, perhaps by
coincidence, perhaps not).  In that case, you'll need a starter, which
is more involved.

- N. Jay
**************
> Hi,
> 
> I have a 328i E46 that won't start this morning.  I'm in NJ
> and we just had a blizzard this past weekend.  
> 
> It would turn a couple of times but won't fire up.  After a
> couple more tries, the engine won't even turn now.  I
> simply here clicking sound, which I think indicates that
> the battery is okay.
> 
> What do I need to check?  I never had this problem before. 
> Please advice.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Jay



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 10:21:51 -0500
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: car won't start...please advice
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I wuz at Pep Boyz on Saturday buying some little things for E30 M3 project
(nuts & bolts for the horn contact) & noticed the other new hot thing.....

4 People in line in front of me buying "pre-mixed" antifreeze.

Damn, I am in TOTALLY the wrong business.  Some genius found out he could
buy 1 gallon of antifreeze, a second gallon container, split the gallon, add
tap water & then sell each gallon of this stuff for double the price!!!!!
Pure genius!!!!!  For each unit, he halfed (ok plus a little extra for the
container & wah-wah) his cost & doubled the price.  Yowzaa!

Lee->stupid idiot working in the same dead-end job for 6 years now........
:) I bet the guy who came up with the pre-mixed antifreeze doesn't have to
go to the Shaanxi Province in China for 14 months!!!!

88 M3->some coolant, some distilled water.....aaaaaabout 1/2 & 1/2,
hurriedly mixed at the track to get back out for the next session--a year
ago--been meaning to get to that

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Carlos Lopez
> Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 09:55
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [UUC] car won't start...please advice
> 
> --- "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Jay,
> > 
> > Actually, it still sounds like it could be a battery.  
> 
> This is battery killin' time.  Karl had a dead battery on his 
> truck yesterday so we went and got a new one.  Later that day 
> I stopped somewhere to buy new wipers and noticed 3 people in 
> line in front of me were buying batteries.
> 
> Carlos (ordering a new Optima from werk today)
> 88 325is
> 93 325is <--will probably get the Optima
> 
> 
>               
> __________________________________
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> All your favorites on one personal page - Try My Yahoo!
> http://my.yahoo.com
> Search the 
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> ____________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of 
> the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the 
> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 06:55:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected]
Subject: Re: car won't start...please advice
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

--- "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jay,
> 
> Actually, it still sounds like it could be a battery.  

This is battery killin' time.  Karl had a dead battery on his truck
yesterday so we went and got a new one.  Later that day I stopped
somewhere to buy new wipers and noticed 3 people in line in front of me
were buying batteries.

Carlos (ordering a new Optima from werk today)
88 325is
93 325is <--will probably get the Optima


                
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
All your favorites on one personal page � Try My Yahoo!
http://my.yahoo.com 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:50:46 -0500
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: M3 no heatie the feeties.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hey everybody,

So I drove my E30M3 for the first time in REALLY cold weather in a long time
apparently, yesterday as I noticed a new problem.  Now, I know the source of
the problem is that it's not supposed to be 20 degrees at any time in
Georgia, but then it occurred to me that there are possibly periods of
weather this cold in Germany.

So here's the problem (and the heat used to REALLY work well).  The car will
blow hot with the engine under load, i.e.when the car is cruising down the
freeway at 80, there's heat coming through, but not the result of hot
fission I'm used to.  When the car is idling, like waiting for some of the
intolerably long lights around here, you can feel the air coming through the
vents drop dramatically in temperature.  Strange, huh--especially since the
coolant temperature rises during idling.  I can't remember exactly, as it
was many beers ago, but I think Tim Ng put a heater valve in the car while
he was watching over it in '02.

Any suggestions?  The blower seems to work & blows a normal volume of air
through & the car does make some heat & actually pretty hot I suspect, so
I'm inclined to think the heater core MAY be ok (not leaking, seeping,
etc.).

As always, thanks for the help.
Lee
88 M3->may be a little chilly, but will do some wicked-long drifts in cold
weather with V710s.....
01 Saab9-3SE->chose this well-heated, plush, heated leather seat darling for
the 14deg drive this morning

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 06:57:19 -0800
From: Avi Heroor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Lift time rental?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Any good suggestions on how to get access to a lift when needed? I do 
have a good jack and floor stands but feel a little apprehensive about 
using them especially with my non-BMW midsize SUV.

If it helps, I'm in the Seattle, WA, USA area.


Thanks,
-Avi.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 10:35:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Lift time rental?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

On Mon, 24 Jan 2005, Avi Heroor wrote:
> Any good suggestions on how to get access to a lift when needed? I do 
> have a good jack and floor stands but feel a little apprehensive about 
> using them especially with my non-BMW midsize SUV.
> 
> If it helps, I'm in the Seattle, WA, USA area.

I've always thought that (barring lawers) a time share shop space 
warehouse would be a neat thing to setup.  Like with long term rentals, 
short term stuff, etc.  Obviously it'd have to be handy to a city to work 
though...

I suspect that the liability insurance would kill you though.

Anyway... Why are you apprehensive about using a jack and jackstands?  The 
main reason folks use lifts is convience and speed, not safety...

Mark


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 11:41:42 -0500
From: Ben Keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Lift time rental?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I also wondered about the concern for using jackstands
(assuming they're rated to support the appropriate
weight) for SUV work as well.

plus, unless the car is slammed to the ground or
otherwise modified, I'd reckon that you could work
on pretty much everything underneath it without
even jacking it up in the air at all.  if you need to
pull the wheels, then support it with jackstands
(tho they would probably have to be quite tall)
and you're good to go.

it's a much better problem to have in having too
much room underneath a car than not enough, like
some lowered BMW's.  it's always fun to have to
slightly lift the car up by hand to get the low-profile
jack to fit under the car...


Ben

Mark wrote:
> On Mon, 24 Jan 2005, Avi Heroor wrote:
> > Any good suggestions on how to get access to a lift when needed? I do
> > have a good jack and floor stands but feel a little apprehensive about
> > using them especially with my non-BMW midsize SUV.
> >
> Anyway... Why are you apprehensive about using a jack and jackstands?  The
> main reason folks use lifts is convience and speed, not safety...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 10:24:52 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 1/24/05 9:28 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> One week the V1 was reading it, the next it wasn't.  I
> wonder what drove the change?  Maybe I should email Mike V. and see if
> he knows.

If one week your V1 detected the radar trailer and the next week it didn't
detect the very same trailer, which would you think more likely: that the
radar has morphed technologies, or that something has changed with the V1?

I know which assumption would be more likely to keep my drivers license
clean (well, if I had a clean license...)

BTW, radar detection is never OT for BMW drivers!

Neil
96 M3      - Bastard child
03 525iT   - New arrival, Sterling Grey Metallic
77 MGB     - Original owner, need to sell
05 Mini    - Cooper S built and awaiting shipment



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 11:19:15 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
From: Phil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <OT> New radar not registering on V1
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I didn't really know if it was the same trailer or not.  They hook these things 
up to the Sheriff's cars and move them to wherever they want so you really 
can't ever tell if it's the same trailer or not without stopping to look at the 
tag number, etc.  I guess the measuring technique could have been changed 
during maintenance, or maybe they just bought some new ones that look the same. 
 The V1 works fine on other K band alerts (that's the band I'd get the alert on 
previously when I saw one of these trailers), including sheriff's radar.  
That's why I didn't suspect the V1.

Another interesting V1 occurrence since you mentioned radar detection not being 
OT.  Last year I was driving a rental car to keep miles off my car on a 
business trip.  It was a POS Malibu and I was trying to get to Tyndall AFB in 
Panama City, FL on Labor Day.  Hurricane Frances was bearing down on the 
panhandle and I needed to just get there and get in the hotel.  Wasn't paying 
attention to my speed but had the V1 on.  Keep in mind this is in Ft. Walton 
Beach, FL where the local cops don't have the $$ for multiple Lidars but I knew 
they had one, just hardly ever saw it in use.  Usually if I get a laser alert, 
it's a Chevy Trailblazer or GMC Envoy with CHMSL using LED technology.  So when 
I get a laser alert, I'm conditioned to look around for an SUV, not Lidar.  I 
learned the hard way.  Couldn't believe he ticketed me for what the Malibu 
speedo said was 33 and he claimed was 40 in a 25.  He "cut me a break" and 
didn't write it for 40 in 25, just excessive speed, so I got by !
with $77 and traffic school vs $140 for measured speed.  Believe me, now I pay 
attention when I get the laser alert!

Phil
92 E36/M50

-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Jan 24, 2005 9:24 AM
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [UUC]  <OT> New radar not registering on V1

on 1/24/05 9:28 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> One week the V1 was reading it, the next it wasn't.  I
> wonder what drove the change?  Maybe I should email Mike V. and see if
> he knows.

If one week your V1 detected the radar trailer and the next week it didn't
detect the very same trailer, which would you think more likely: that the
radar has morphed technologies, or that something has changed with the V1?

I know which assumption would be more likely to keep my drivers license
clean (well, if I had a clean license...)

BTW, radar detection is never OT for BMW drivers!

Neil
96 M3      - Bastard child
03 525iT   - New arrival, Sterling Grey Metallic
77 MGB     - Original owner, need to sell
05 Mini    - Cooper S built and awaiting shipment


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:32:50 -0600
From: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUCDigest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Cold start stalling -  E30
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hello Listers,

Posting for my brother who is away form his PC right now.

Case is a '90 325i with 174k miles on the clock.  Ambient temp this AM was
24 deg F.  Car will start when cold, but will not continue to run.  He got
the car started first thing in the morning and it ran for two minutes then
stalled when he tried to drive out of his parking spot in 14" of snow (he
lives in Chicago).  It would not re-start for next two minutes of cranking.
The only trick that got it going was to hold the throttle to the floor.
This encouraged faint stumbles and hints of combustion.  After another two
minutes of this, it did start again.  He revved it up to 3k RPM, let his
foot off the gas, then it stalled again.  After that, he could not get it
started again, the battery was getting too weak.

The plugs are new Bosch copper, correct number.  Fuel filter is new, premium
fuel with Heat additive in the tank.  Car seemed to run OK previous to this
issue.  What should he check first?  Could this be related to a temp sensor,
or something similar.  Is this a classic case of something that he and I are
not familiar with?  Thanks in advance for any help you folks can provide.
Please reply to me and I'll pass it on to my brother.  Thanks.


Andrew Harkonen
'89 535i  5spd (runs great)
STL BMWCCA


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:13:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Andrew Harkonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   UUCDigest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Cold start stalling -  E30
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I read someplace about someone having a similar problem and the problem
was the AFM was frozen.  Worth a look anyway and it's easy to remove it
along with the airbox attached.

Carlos.
88 325is trouble free so far except for the occassional powah slide
<ulfism>
93 325is


        
                
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 10:32:47 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: car won't start...please advice
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 1/24/05 9:28 AM, Jay Guillermo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I have a 328i E46 that won't start this morning.  I'm in NJ
> and we just had a blizzard this past weekend.
> 
> It would turn a couple of times but won't fire up.  After a
> couple more tries, the engine won't even turn now.  I
> simply here clicking sound, which I think indicates that
> the battery is okay.

No, that suggests that your battery is *not* OK.

If the battery were fully charged then the starter would be turning the
engine over. You described the typical situation where the battery had
enough juice to turn the engine over a couple of times, then went flat
before the car was able to start.

Most likely your battery has come to the end of its useful life, hastened by
the current cold snap, or less likely you could have a charging problem.
Since you didn't say how old your car is, it's hard to guess.

Get it jump started, then have the battery tested/replaced.

Neil
96 M3      - Bastard child
03 525iT   - New arrival, Sterling Grey Metallic
77 MGB     - Original owner, need to sell
05 Mini    - Cooper S built and awaiting shipment




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 10:46:36 -0500 (EST)
From: "John Stoj" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: FS - 91 535 5spd
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



Karl - I sent you an email via autotrader.  Email me at john_stoj "at" 
excite.com

- John

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Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:57:15 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E30 Power Locks Fixed 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Um, so why is it marked "not used" in the ETM?  BTW, I don't have heated
locks, but still, it should be marked for how it is used, not "not used" if
it sometimes used.

Thanks,

Scott


>Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 21:21:23 -0500
>From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: Re: E30 Power Locks Fixed <longish>
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>If you have heated locks, it is used.
>
>Ed
>
>Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote:
>
>>I know everyone has been losing sleep wondering what happened with the
>>intermittant power locks in our '91 325iA.They're fixed.� And it is a
>>fix of which Rob Siegel would be proud, if he had any clue who the
>>heck I am.
<snip>




------------------------------

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