Re: Stus-List changing stern light

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Consider mooring stern in, if possible, and work from the dock.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Richard Walter via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 20:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Walter
Subject: Stus-List changing stern light

Ahoy!

Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb for an OEM 
1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb while we're in the water? 
I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc. to the transom to try to minimize 
dropping pieces overboard. 3) wait till the boat's on the hard?

Thanks,
Richard Walter
s/v INDIGO
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I had two fail within the past year.

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 1:46 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

Paul, 

Those look like standard A-series breakers with a white toggle.  They do fail.  

Blue Sea, Paneltronics, and lots of others make or market them.

Why did you buy used?  I would have bought new.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 10:11 AM, Paul via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
  don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
  Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
  become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
  I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
  would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
  I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


  Thanks,
  Paul Hood
  81 C - Refuge
  Georgian Bay



  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List changing stern light

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I replaced all of my navigation lights with LED's this year. I was able to find 
units that fit the plates on the pulpits. I recall they were about 20 $$ each. 
Much brighter.which reminds me I have to come up with a shield for the 
stern light because it is so bright, you look astern and the night vision is 
gone.
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK IIKomoka Ontario 

On Thursday, August 10, 2017 9:15 PM, james via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  If you have the same stern light that I have, look at this 
linkhttp://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-8dhjm4ne/products/152/images/949/Eyeball3__60776.1445526326.1280.1280.jpg?c=2
 for a LED replacement. James Taylor Delaney C 38, 1976 Oriental, NC 
  
 On 8/10/2017 8:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
  
 Clueless as to the bulb. 
  Tape a box under the fixture. 
  Dennis C.  
 On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 7:31 PM, Richard Walter via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
Ahoy!  
  Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb for an OEM 
1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb while we're in the water? 
I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc. to the transom to try to minimize 
dropping pieces overboard. 3) wait till the boat's on the hard?  
  Thanks,  Richard Walter  s/v INDIGO  
 __ _
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
  
  
  
 ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

We plan to leave Padanaram on Sun Aug 20 and stay at Newport Yachting Center 
for a few nights before heading to Block Island.  Hope to catch some racing en 
route to Block 
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram,MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2017, at 6:02 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Chuck still going to newportv next week for the J class races?
> Gary Kolc  "Liberty"
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/10/17 3:39 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
> 
> Half Magic sports a working Raytheon 1200 CRT radar at the nav station.  
> Takes a while to warm up and it really draws some serious amperage.  As such 
> I only tend to use it when motoring at night or in fog.  But it isn't awful 
> once you learn to interpret what's out there.  I even got the owners manual 
> and schematic diagram showing all the resistors and stuff..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall 
> Padanaram, MA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2017, at 3:03 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> That looks like a Furuno CRT unit. They are actually quite nice radars.
>>  
>>  
>> Joe Della Barba
>> j...@dellabarba.com
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
>> G Street via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 2:41 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Frederick G Street 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
>>  
>> Josh — is that REALLY a CRT radar display?  I haven’t seen one of those in 
>> years (except for the one somebody posted about a few weeks back, found in a 
>> river)…   :^)
>>  
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>  
>> On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>  
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk
>>  
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List changing stern light

[james via CnC-List]

If you have the same stern light that I have, look at this link 
http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-8dhjm4ne/products/152/images/949/Eyeball3__60776.1445526326.1280.1280.jpg?c=2 
for a LED replacement.


James Taylor

Delaney

C 38, 1976

Oriental, NC



On 8/10/2017 8:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Clueless as to the bulb.

Tape a box under the fixture.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 7:31 PM, Richard Walter via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Ahoy!

Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb
for an OEM 1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb
while we're in the water? I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc.
to the transom to try to minimize dropping pieces overboard. 3)
wait till the boat's on the hard?

Thanks,
Richard Walter
s/v INDIGO

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List changing stern light

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Clueless as to the bulb.

Tape a box under the fixture.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 7:31 PM, Richard Walter via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ahoy!
>
> Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb for an
> OEM 1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb while we're in the
> water? I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc. to the transom to try to
> minimize dropping pieces overboard. 3) wait till the boat's on the hard?
>
> Thanks,
> Richard Walter
> s/v INDIGO
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List changing stern light

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Ahoy! 
Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb for an OEM 
1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb while we're in the water? 
I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc. to the transom to try to minimize 
dropping pieces overboard. 3) wait till the boat's on the hard? 
Thanks, Richard Walter s/v INDIGO ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List NW Rendezvous

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

On my way
Bill
Mithrandir
35-2


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2017, at 4:52 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Headed up to Telegraph Harbor on Thetis this weekend.  Any other listers 
> going!
> 
> www.cncrdv.org
> 
> Tom B
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2017, at 3:12 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>   1. Re:  Electrical panel (ahycrace)
>>   2. Re:  Can't close the v-berth door (syerd...@gmail.com)
>>   3. Re:  Electrical panel (Frederick G Street)
>>   4. Re:  Can't close the v-berth door (Dave Godwin)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 18:02:04 -0400
>> From: ahycrace <ahycr...@cox.net>
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
>> Message-ID:
>><20170810220215.ywqv30763.fed1rmfepo203.cox@fed1rmimpo305.cox.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Chuck still going to newport next week for the J class races?Gary Kolc 
>> ?"Liberty"
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>  Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/10/17  3:39 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net> Subject: 
>> Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 
>> Half Magic sports a working Raytheon 1200 CRT radar at the nav station. 
>> ?Takes a while to warm up and it really draws some serious amperage. ?As 
>> such I only tend to use it when motoring at night or in fog. ?But it isn't 
>> awful once you learn to interpret what's out there. ?I even got the owners 
>> manual and schematic diagram showing all the resistors and stuff..Chuck 
>> GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 35 Landfall?Padanaram, MA
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> On Aug 10, 2017, at 3:03 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> That looks like a Furuno CRT unit. They are actually quite nice radars. 
>> ??Joe Della Barbajoe@dellabarba.comFrom: CnC-List 
>> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 2:41 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel?Josh ? is that REALLY?a CRT radar 
>> display? ?I haven?t seen one of those in years (except for the one somebody 
>> posted about a few weeks back, found in a river)? ? :^)?? Fred
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V?Oceanis?(1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI?On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 
>> PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:?https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk?Josh
>>  Muckley?S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, 
>> MD?___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>> ?https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20170810/f6611a69/attachment-0001.html>
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 18:04:45 -0400
>> From: syerd...@gmail.com
>> To: Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com>
>> Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door
>> Message-ID: <c4501565-ce05-4aa3-ae33-5fe33bdc1...@gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: 

Stus-List NW Rendezvous

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Headed up to Telegraph Harbor on Thetis this weekend.  Any other listers going!

www.cncrdv.org

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Aug 10, 2017, at 3:12 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Electrical panel (ahycrace)
>   2. Re:  Can't close the v-berth door (syerd...@gmail.com)
>   3. Re:  Electrical panel (Frederick G Street)
>   4. Re:  Can't close the v-berth door (Dave Godwin)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 18:02:04 -0400
> From: ahycrace <ahycr...@cox.net>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
> Message-ID:
><20170810220215.ywqv30763.fed1rmfepo203.cox@fed1rmimpo305.cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Chuck still going to newport next week for the J class races?Gary Kolc 
> ?"Liberty"
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>  Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/10/17  3:39 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net> Subject: 
> Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 
> Half Magic sports a working Raytheon 1200 CRT radar at the nav station. 
> ?Takes a while to warm up and it really draws some serious amperage. ?As such 
> I only tend to use it when motoring at night or in fog. ?But it isn't awful 
> once you learn to interpret what's out there. ?I even got the owners manual 
> and schematic diagram showing all the resistors and stuff..Chuck GilchrestS/V 
> Half Magic1983 35 Landfall?Padanaram, MA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 3:03 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> That looks like a Furuno CRT unit. They are actually quite nice radars. 
> ??Joe Della Barbajoe@dellabarba.comFrom: CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 2:41 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel?Josh ? is that REALLY?a CRT radar 
> display? ?I haven?t seen one of those in years (except for the one somebody 
> posted about a few weeks back, found in a river)? ? :^)?? Fred
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V?Oceanis?(1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI?On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 
> PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:?https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk?Josh
>  Muckley?S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, 
> MD?___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> ?https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20170810/f6611a69/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 18:04:45 -0400
> From: syerd...@gmail.com
> To: Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com>
> Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door
> Message-ID: <c4501565-ce05-4aa3-ae33-5fe33bdc1...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> My 33-2 does that if I crank things too tight.   (mast step has been 
> rebuilt), and I do not have a hydraulic backstay.  It binds at the top of the 
> doorframe.
> 
> There are there are j hooks that are bolted through the mast that grab the 
> cast mast partners/ collar to which the halyard turning blocks are mounted.  
> I believe these hooks are there keep the mast collar from being lifted by  
> pull of the halyards.There are shims between the base of the mast and the 
> step that can slightly vary height of the mast and there

Stus-List Seventies singer-songwriters, also known as "we're showing our age" [was Re: Can't close the v-berth door]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Wasn’t that by Harry Shippin’?   :^)

Okay, Dennis, go have another Hurricane… and drink one for me…   I’d come join 
you, but I’m a little too far west this week (Wichita Falls, TX).

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 10, 2017, at 5:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> And the boat's in the cradle and the silver cup
> Little boat blue and the man drinking up
> When you going sailing, Fred?
> I don't know when
> But we'll get together then
> You know we'll have a good time then
> 
> Sorry, it's just where my mind went.
> 
> Dennis C.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

And the boat's in the cradle and the silver cup
Little boat blue and the man drinking up
When you going sailing, Fred?
I don't know when
But we'll get together then
You know we'll have a good time then

Sorry, it's just where my mind went.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 5:00 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  but when the boat’s in the cradle for the winter
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’m thinking that this might be a common issue along the C line, at least 
from our vintage years. About a year after I acquired our boat and getting the 
rig rebuilt (I bought it with the mast on the deck as an abandoned bank-repo) 
and the boat in the water the v-berth door stopped closing. Worked with a 
friend who owned a boat-yard and built boats and we couldn’t really find a 
“good” reason for this happening.

I just ignored it and kept the v-berth door pinned open. It will be interesting 
to see it that still is the case when I finally put the new rig (all new rod 
and running rigging) back in after sitting on jack stands with no keel for a 
couple of years...

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 6:00 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have the opposite issue with the v-berth door on my Landfall 38; with the 
> boat in the water and the rig under tension, it’s fine, but when the boat’s 
> in the cradle for the winter it won’t close…   Kind of a non-issue, I guess…  
>  :^)
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2017, at 4:33 PM, john sandford via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> I have the same problem when the shrouds are tensioned to 17ish%
>> I recessed the hinges into the frame, which moved the door <>3/16 to Stbd 
>> and allows closing.
>> Same problem with the aft cabin door.
>> If I slack the rig enough to close the doors, its scary sailing with the 
>> leeward stuff just flopping around. So I dont
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Josh — all of the solid-state radar scanners and displays are MUCH more energy 
efficient than their predecessors.  The choice of scanner mostly comes down to 
whether it’s going to attach to an MFD, or be a black-box unit.  If’s it’s 
going to an MFD, you need to stick with the same manufacturer (obviously…).

Furuno, Garmin, Navico (Simrad/Lowrance/B) and Koden all make black-box 
scanners.  You just need to determine which one will be supported by the app 
you’re going to use.  It looks like OpenCPN supports at least the Garmin and 
Navico.  I’ve heard really good things about the Novice BR24, so that might be 
an option to consider along with the Garmin scanners.

Just know that if your laptop fails (not unheard of in salt air…), your radar 
is just a big boat anchor attached partway up the mast.  The purpose-built MFDs 
are much more robust in the marine environment, IMHO.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 10, 2017, at 2:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yep CRT, for the radar, and it works...if I actually knew how to use it.  I 
> turn it on from time to time and try to make out contacts but with most of 
> the inland sailing I do it is rather useless.  I've seen the newer digital 
> radars seem to work well with storm cells and overlay on the 
> chartplotter...seems much more useful.  Oddly enough I literally just spoke 
> to the local yard about having mast and rig work done this winter and 
> discussed replacing the radar.
> 
> Since you took interest, I'll entertain your thoughts on replacements.  With 
> the speed at which technology advances I hate spending money on planned 
> obsolescence items and lean towards OpenSource or at least opensource 
> compatible solutions.  IIRC OpenCPN has a module for the GARMIN HD radar 
> systems.
> 
> Another reason I don't use the radar regularly is that is is an energy hog.  
> ~10amps!!  It is also down below and doesn't talk to the chartplotter...at 
> all.  It only has NMEA 0183 provisions for course input, time input, sailing 
> instrument input, magnetic bearing input, no outputs.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[Dave via CnC-List]

My 33-2 does that if I crank things too tight.   (mast step has been rebuilt), 
and I do not have a hydraulic backstay.  It binds at the top of the doorframe.

There are there are j hooks that are bolted through the mast that grab the cast 
mast partners/ collar to which the halyard turning blocks are mounted.  I 
believe these hooks are there keep the mast collar from being lifted by  pull 
of the halyards.There are shims between the base of the mast and the step 
that can slightly vary height of the mast and therefore the distance between 
the hooks and the step.   S, without those shims, the mast is inclined to 
press the cabin top down, and therefore the top of the head door frame.   If 
shimmed correctly, the hooks don't pull the cabin down, but they keep the deck 
from lifting via halyard pressure etc..
If you have a similar arrangement, this could be impacting things.  

Dave.  33-2


Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 10, 2017, at 4:18 PM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
> 
> Interesting. I inspected my mast step closely when the mast was out, since I 
> know some LF38s have had that issue. Mine looked okay. Dennis when your head 
> door was stuck, was it binding at the top and bottom edges of the door?  
> Given your cabin roof was being pushed down I imagine that's what would 
> happen. My v-berth door is binding at the sides - the bottom 3 feet - so that 
> makes me think it's due to horizontal squeezing of the hull. 
> 
> I know some flex / compression is natural from the forces of the rig on all 
> sailboats, more so on more flexy boats than on older solid fiberglass boats. 
> The LF38 has no deck tie downs at the fwd bulkhead, just the aft bulkhead. So 
> I'm wondering whether that lack of deck tie downs allows the hull to flex 
> more at that fwd section. 
> 
> -Patrick
>  
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: CnClist 
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 14:08:47 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door
>> Years ago, I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster on Touche'.  Hot dog!  
>> Picked the boat up from the yard and went out on the lake to try it out.  
>> Cranked it down and, oops, the head door wouldn't open.  Temporary boat 
>> rule:  nobody uses the head going upwind.  Downwind, backstay off, door 
>> opened fine.
>> 
>> Didn't take long to discover deteriorated mast step.  Tightened the rig, the 
>> mast was driven downward into the boat.  The turning blocks on the mast 
>> pushed the collar down, deformed the cabin roof and bound up the head door.
>> 
>> Rebuilt mast step solved issue.
>> 
>> Your experience may be different.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1:43 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the 
>>> v-berth door on our Landfall 38. 
>>> 
>>> At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the 
>>> summer, but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple 
>>> turns (due to masthead fall off in higher winds). And this winter when I 
>>> had the mast out for rerig I noticed the v-berth door closed fine. 
>>> 
>>> Is this just normal flex for C's?  Anyone else had this issue? 
>>> 
>>> It's binding at the door jamb and the lower right half of the door. I tried 
>>> to check the bulkhead to hull and deck joints, but it's hard to inspect 
>>> those much since they're covered by a permanent liner.
>>> 
>>> Releasing backstay tension doesn't help. So I suspect it's the fwd lowers 
>>> or main shrouds that flex the hull the tiny amount needed to squeeze the 
>>> door frame. I double checked that the tie rods are adequately tensioned and 
>>> there's no upward inflexion of the deck at the U-bolts. 
>>> 
>>> The only thing I can think to do would be to sand down the lower half of 
>>> the door edge and revarnish it.
>>> 
>>> -Patrick
>>> 1984 C Landfall 38
>>> Seattle, WA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> CnC-List mailing list
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[ahycrace via CnC-List]

Chuck still going to newport next week for the J class races?Gary Kolc  
"Liberty"


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/10/17  3:39 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 
Half Magic sports a working Raytheon 1200 CRT radar at the nav station.  Takes 
a while to warm up and it really draws some serious amperage.  As such I only 
tend to use it when motoring at night or in fog.  But it isn't awful once you 
learn to interpret what's out there.  I even got the owners manual and 
schematic diagram showing all the resistors and stuff..Chuck GilchrestS/V Half 
Magic1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 10, 2017, at 3:03 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote:

That looks like a Furuno CRT unit. They are actually quite nice radars.   
Joe Della Barbajoe@dellabarba.comFrom: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 2:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel Josh — is that REALLY a CRT radar 
display?  I haven’t seen one of those in years (except for the one somebody 
posted about a few weeks back, found in a river)…   :^) — Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 PM, 
Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote: 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk 
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I have the opposite issue with the v-berth door on my Landfall 38; with the 
boat in the water and the rig under tension, it’s fine, but when the boat’s in 
the cradle for the winter it won’t close…   Kind of a non-issue, I guess…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 10, 2017, at 4:33 PM, john sandford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have the same problem when the shrouds are tensioned to 17ish%
> I recessed the hinges into the frame, which moved the door <>3/16 to Stbd and 
> allows closing.
> Same problem with the aft cabin door.
> If I slack the rig enough to close the doors, its scary sailing with the 
> leeward stuff just flopping around. So I dont

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[john sandford via CnC-List]

I have the same problem when the shrouds are tensioned to 17ish%

I recessed the hinges into the frame, which moved the door <>3/16 to Stbd and 
allows closing.

Same problem with the aft cabin door.

If I slack the rig enough to close the doors, its scary sailing with the 
leeward stuff just flopping around. So I dont

 

 

From: Patrick Davin [mailto:jda...@gmail.com] 
Sent: August-10-17 3:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

 

I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the v-berth 
door on our Landfall 38. 

 

At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the summer, 
but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple turns (due 
to masthead fall off in higher winds). And this winter when I had the mast out 
for rerig I noticed the v-berth door closed fine. 

 

Is this just normal flex for C's?  Anyone else had this issue? 

 

It's binding at the door jamb and the lower right half of the door. I tried to 
check the bulkhead to hull and deck joints, but it's hard to inspect those much 
since they're covered by a permanent liner.

 

Releasing backstay tension doesn't help. So I suspect it's the fwd lowers or 
main shrouds that flex the hull the tiny amount needed to squeeze the door 
frame. I double checked that the tie rods are adequately tensioned and there's 
no upward inflexion of the deck at the U-bolts. 

 

The only thing I can think to do would be to sand down the lower half of the 
door edge and revarnish it.

 

-Patrick

1984 C Landfall 38

Seattle, WA

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Some are dual purpose switch / circuit breakers:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7351/C-Series_White_Toggle_Circuit_Breaker_-_Single_Pole_10_Amp

That one is rated at 10,000 cycles as a switch.  The MRSP is $40 USD, more 
expensive than a switch and fuse.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 10:05:59 -0700 
From: svpegasus38  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 
Message-ID:  
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
 
Paul,?Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we 
all do. Me included. This being used as a switch will cause them to fail over 
time. I believe you just had bad luck having 2 fail symotainiously. I like 
paneltronics stuff. because I have used it in the past, and they will custom 
build a panel for you.? 
 
 
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy?POYC?Pegasus ?(for 
sale)?Lf38?Rebecca Leah?LF39? 
 Original message From: Paul via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/10/17  09:54  (GMT-08:00) To: 'Ron Ricci' 
, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel  
My 2 problem breakers were from the 12v DC side of the panel.? The AC is the 
left side and the DC is the right 2 sides. I have the main shut off switch 
for the panel otherwise, there is not backup breaker for the DC. 
 
Thanks, 
Paul Hood 
416.799.5549 c 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Patrick,

Yes, Touche's head door was binding at the top.

Your reasoning sounds good.  Have you released the extra shroud tension?

Dennis C.

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 3:18 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting. I inspected my mast step closely when the mast was out, since
> I know some LF38s have had that issue. Mine looked okay. Dennis when your
> head door was stuck, was it binding at the top and bottom edges of the
> door?  Given your cabin roof was being pushed down I imagine that's what
> would happen. My v-berth door is binding at the sides - the bottom 3 feet -
> so that makes me think it's due to horizontal squeezing of the hull.
>
> I know some flex / compression is natural from the forces of the rig on
> all sailboats, more so on more flexy boats than on older solid fiberglass
> boats. The LF38 has no deck tie downs at the fwd bulkhead, just the aft
> bulkhead. So I'm wondering whether that lack of deck tie downs allows the
> hull to flex more at that fwd section.
>
> -Patrick
>
>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: CnClist 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 14:08:47 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door
>> Years ago, I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster on Touche'.  Hot
>> dog!  Picked the boat up from the yard and went out on the lake to try it
>> out.  Cranked it down and, oops, the head door wouldn't open.  Temporary
>> boat rule:  nobody uses the head going upwind.  Downwind, backstay off,
>> door opened fine.
>>
>> Didn't take long to discover deteriorated mast step.  Tightened the rig,
>> the mast was driven downward into the boat.  The turning blocks on the mast
>> pushed the collar down, deformed the cabin roof and bound up the head door.
>>
>> Rebuilt mast step solved issue.
>>
>> Your experience may be different.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1:43 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the
>>> v-berth door on our Landfall 38.
>>>
>>> At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the
>>> summer, but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple
>>> turns (due to masthead fall off in higher winds). And this winter when I
>>> had the mast out for rerig I noticed the v-berth door closed fine.
>>>
>>> Is this just normal flex for C's?  Anyone else had this issue?
>>>
>>> It's binding at the door jamb and the lower right half of the door. I
>>> tried to check the bulkhead to hull and deck joints, but it's hard to
>>> inspect those much since they're covered by a permanent liner.
>>>
>>> Releasing backstay tension doesn't help. So I suspect it's the fwd
>>> lowers or main shrouds that flex the hull the tiny amount needed to squeeze
>>> the door frame. I double checked that the tie rods are adequately tensioned
>>> and there's no upward inflexion of the deck at the U-bolts.
>>>
>>> The only thing I can think to do would be to sand down the lower half of
>>> the door edge and revarnish it.
>>>
>>> -Patrick
>>> 1984 C Landfall 38
>>> Seattle, WA
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> CnC-List mailing list
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Patrick, On Pegasus  Never had an issue with the head door, but aft cabin door 
always would stick in lower corner. I don't remember the v-berth door binding. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/10/17  13:18  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door 
Interesting. I inspected my mast step closely when the mast was out, since I 
know some LF38s have had that issue. Mine looked okay. Dennis when your head 
door was stuck, was it binding at the top and bottom edges of the door?  Given 
your cabin roof was being pushed down I imagine that's what would happen. My 
v-berth door is binding at the sides - the bottom 3 feet - so that makes me 
think it's due to horizontal squeezing of the hull. 
I know some flex / compression is natural from the forces of the rig on all 
sailboats, more so on more flexy boats than on older solid fiberglass boats. 
The LF38 has no deck tie downs at the fwd bulkhead, just the aft bulkhead. So 
I'm wondering whether that lack of deck tie downs allows the hull to flex more 
at that fwd section. 
-Patrick 
-- Forwarded message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 14:08:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door
Years ago, I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster on Touche'.  Hot dog!  
Picked the boat up from the yard and went out on the lake to try it out.  
Cranked it down and, oops, the head door wouldn't open.  Temporary boat rule:  
nobody uses the head going upwind.  Downwind, backstay off, door opened fine.
Didn't take long to discover deteriorated mast step.  Tightened the rig, the 
mast was driven downward into the boat.  The turning blocks on the mast pushed 
the collar down, deformed the cabin roof and bound up the head door.
Rebuilt mast step solved issue.
Your experience may be different.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1:43 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the v-berth 
door on our Landfall 38. 
At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the summer, 
but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple turns (due 
to masthead fall off in higher winds). And this winter when I had the mast out 
for rerig I noticed the v-berth door closed fine. 
Is this just normal flex for C's?  Anyone else had this issue? 
It's binding at the door jamb and the lower right half of the door. I tried to 
check the bulkhead to hull and deck joints, but it's hard to inspect those much 
since they're covered by a permanent liner.
Releasing backstay tension doesn't help. So I suspect it's the fwd lowers or 
main shrouds that flex the hull the tiny amount needed to squeeze the door 
frame. I double checked that the tie rods are adequately tensioned and there's 
no upward inflexion of the deck at the U-bolts. 
The only thing I can think to do would be to sand down the lower half of the 
door edge and revarnish it.
-Patrick1984 C Landfall 38Seattle, WA


___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

CnC-List mailing list

CnC-List@cnc-list.com

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Interesting. I inspected my mast step closely when the mast was out, since
I know some LF38s have had that issue. Mine looked okay. Dennis when your
head door was stuck, was it binding at the top and bottom edges of the
door?  Given your cabin roof was being pushed down I imagine that's what
would happen. My v-berth door is binding at the sides - the bottom 3 feet -
so that makes me think it's due to horizontal squeezing of the hull.

I know some flex / compression is natural from the forces of the rig on all
sailboats, more so on more flexy boats than on older solid fiberglass
boats. The LF38 has no deck tie downs at the fwd bulkhead, just the aft
bulkhead. So I'm wondering whether that lack of deck tie downs allows the
hull to flex more at that fwd section.

-Patrick


> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 14:08:47 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door
> Years ago, I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster on Touche'.  Hot
> dog!  Picked the boat up from the yard and went out on the lake to try it
> out.  Cranked it down and, oops, the head door wouldn't open.  Temporary
> boat rule:  nobody uses the head going upwind.  Downwind, backstay off,
> door opened fine.
>
> Didn't take long to discover deteriorated mast step.  Tightened the rig,
> the mast was driven downward into the boat.  The turning blocks on the mast
> pushed the collar down, deformed the cabin roof and bound up the head door.
>
> Rebuilt mast step solved issue.
>
> Your experience may be different.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1:43 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the
>> v-berth door on our Landfall 38.
>>
>> At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the
>> summer, but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple
>> turns (due to masthead fall off in higher winds). And this winter when I
>> had the mast out for rerig I noticed the v-berth door closed fine.
>>
>> Is this just normal flex for C's?  Anyone else had this issue?
>>
>> It's binding at the door jamb and the lower right half of the door. I
>> tried to check the bulkhead to hull and deck joints, but it's hard to
>> inspect those much since they're covered by a permanent liner.
>>
>> Releasing backstay tension doesn't help. So I suspect it's the fwd lowers
>> or main shrouds that flex the hull the tiny amount needed to squeeze the
>> door frame. I double checked that the tie rods are adequately tensioned and
>> there's no upward inflexion of the deck at the U-bolts.
>>
>> The only thing I can think to do would be to sand down the lower half of
>> the door edge and revarnish it.
>>
>> -Patrick
>> 1984 C Landfall 38
>> Seattle, WA
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bruce,

Many owners replace the original switch panel with integrated breaker
panels.  Blue Seas makes some pretty nice ones.  I think people think they
are "upgrading" but as stated earlier now the only way to control loads is
with the breakers.

Josh

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 3:51 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting, Josh as mine (94 37/40+), look nothing like yours.  I'll have
> to talk a photo...
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/10/17 12:31 PM (GMT-07:00)
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
>
> "Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we
> all do."  I never gave it much thought but it seems that the folks at C
> might have changed their methodology on the 37+.  I have a wide selection
> of "coffe pot" type switches at the switch panel on the nav station to turn
> on/off my electrical loads.  All the switches are wired to a bank of
> terminal boards which are powered from a series of circuit breakers.  It is
> rare for any circuit breakers to trip and unnecessary to operate them
> unless they do.  The terminal boards and circuit breakers are tucked neatly
> behind the nav station, during normal operation.
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/
> view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 10, 2017 1:06 PM, "svpegasus38 via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Paul,
> Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we all
> do. Me included. This being used as a switch will cause them to fail over
> time. I believe you just had bad luck having 2 fail symotainiously. I like
> paneltronics stuff. because I have used it in the past, and they will
> custom build a panel for you.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> POYC
> Pegasus  (for sale)
> Lf38
> Rebecca Leah
> LF39
>
>  Original message 
> From: Paul via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/10/17 09:54 (GMT-08:00)
> To: 'Ron Ricci' , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
>
> My 2 problem breakers were from the 12v DC side of the panel.  The AC is
> the
> left side and the DC is the right 2 sides. I have the main shut off switch
> for the panel otherwise, there is not backup breaker for the DC.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Hood
> 416.799.5549 <(416)%20799-5549> c
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ron Ricci [mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com]
> Sent: August 10, 2017 11:55 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
> Subject: RE: Stus-List Electrical panel
>
> Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
> panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
> VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
> appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
> interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
> and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
> breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.
>
> I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
> breakers.
>
>
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C 37+
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
> via
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
> Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel
>
> I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
> don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
> Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
> become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
> I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
> would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it
> as-is.
> I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M
>
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Hood
> 81 C - Refuge
> Georgian Bay
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Same here Chuck.  The unit seems pretty bomb proof.  Unlike you I don't
really know what I'm looking at and typically I don't motor at night, just
sail so my electrical needs are carefully considered.  200W of solar, 90Amp
alternator, and  600Ah of batteries helps ease my concerns.

Josh

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 3:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Half Magic sports a working Raytheon 1200 CRT radar at the nav station.
> Takes a while to warm up and it really draws some serious amperage.  As
> such I only tend to use it when motoring at night or in fog.  But it isn't
> awful once you learn to interpret what's out there.  I even got the owners
> manual and schematic diagram showing all the resistors and stuff..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 3:03 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> That looks like a Furuno CRT unit. They are actually quite nice radars.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> j...@dellabarba.com
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Frederick G Street via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 10, 2017 2:41 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
>
>
>
> Josh — is that *REALLY* a CRT radar display?  I haven’t seen one of those
> in years (except for the one somebody posted about a few weeks back, found
> in a river)…   :^)
>
>
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
>
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/
> view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yep CRT, for the radar, and it works...if I actually knew how to use it.  I
turn it on from time to time and try to make out contacts but with most of
the inland sailing I do it is rather useless.  I've seen the newer digital
radars seem to work well with storm cells and overlay on the
chartplotter...seems much more useful.  Oddly enough I literally just spoke
to the local yard about having mast and rig work done this winter and
discussed replacing the radar.

Since you took interest, I'll entertain your thoughts on replacements.
With the speed at which technology advances I hate spending money on
planned obsolescence items and lean towards OpenSource or at least
opensource compatible solutions.  IIRC OpenCPN has a module for the GARMIN
HD radar systems.

Another reason I don't use the radar regularly is that is is an energy hog.
 ~10amps!!  It is also down below and doesn't talk to the chartplotter...at
all.  It only has NMEA 0183 provisions for course input, time input,
sailing instrument input, magnetic bearing input, no outputs.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 2:41 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh — is that *REALLY* a CRT radar display?  I haven’t seen one of those
> in years (except for the one somebody posted about a few weeks back, found
> in a river)…   :^)
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/
> view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Interesting, Josh as mine (94 37/40+), look nothing like yours.  I'll have to 
talk a photo...


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/10/17  12:31 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Electrical panel 
"Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we all 
do."  I never gave it much thought but it seems that the folks at C might 
have changed their methodology on the 37+.  I have a wide selection of "coffe 
pot" type switches at the switch panel on the nav station to turn on/off my 
electrical loads.  All the switches are wired to a bank of terminal boards 
which are powered from a series of circuit breakers.  It is rare for any 
circuit breakers to trip and unnecessary to operate them unless they do.  The 
terminal boards and circuit breakers are tucked neatly behind the nav station, 
during normal operation.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD



On Aug 10, 2017 1:06 PM, "svpegasus38 via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Paul, Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we 
all do. Me included. This being used as a switch will cause them to fail over 
time. I believe you just had bad luck having 2 fail symotainiously. I like 
paneltronics stuff. because I have used it in the past, and they will custom 
build a panel for you. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus  (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Paul via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/10/17  09:54  (GMT-08:00) To: 'Ron Ricci' 
, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 
My 2 problem breakers were from the 12v DC side of the panel.  The AC is the
left side and the DC is the right 2 sides. I have the main shut off switch
for the panel otherwise, there is not backup breaker for the DC.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416.799.5549 c

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci [mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com] 
Sent: August 10, 2017 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Electrical panel

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Half Magic sports a working Raytheon 1200 CRT radar at the nav station.  Takes 
a while to warm up and it really draws some serious amperage.  As such I only 
tend to use it when motoring at night or in fog.  But it isn't awful once you 
learn to interpret what's out there.  I even got the owners manual and 
schematic diagram showing all the resistors and stuff..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2017, at 3:03 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That looks like a Furuno CRT unit. They are actually quite nice radars.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> j...@dellabarba.com
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
> G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 2:41 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
>  
> Josh — is that REALLY a CRT radar display?  I haven’t seen one of those in 
> years (except for the one somebody posted about a few weeks back, found in a 
> river)…   :^)
>  
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>  
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk
>  
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Electrical Panel

[Paul via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Ya new would have been good.   I blew one thought it was odd and googled the
model to get an exact match.  The only thing that came up was 2 used on
ebay.  I figured I better get them even used as I again thought 35-40 year
old breakers wouldn't be available new anymore.  I guess too much thinking
and not enough looking.  I'll pick up a couple new ones to keep on hand for
now.


Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 12:46:21 -0500
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul,

Those look like standard A-series breakers with a white toggle.  They do
fail.

Blue Sea, Paneltronics, and lots of others make or market them.

Why did you buy used?  I would have bought new.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

“Ease the sheets, turn upwind, whatever but don't winch the furling line.”

Actually, I find that turning downwind is much easier - no flogging sail, less 
force on the sheet and you might even shadow your jib with the main. Easy.

Other than that I fully agree with Dennis. A big point: never use a winch to 
furl the sail.

Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Fred,

See that panel to the left.  That's where Josh keeps his Atari.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1:41 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh — is that *REALLY* a CRT radar display?  I haven’t seen one of those
> in years (except for the one somebody posted about a few weeks back, found
> in a river)…   :^)
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/
> view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Years ago, I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster on Touche'.  Hot dog!
Picked the boat up from the yard and went out on the lake to try it out.
Cranked it down and, oops, the head door wouldn't open.  Temporary boat
rule:  nobody uses the head going upwind.  Downwind, backstay off, door
opened fine.

Didn't take long to discover deteriorated mast step.  Tightened the rig,
the mast was driven downward into the boat.  The turning blocks on the mast
pushed the collar down, deformed the cabin roof and bound up the head door.

Rebuilt mast step solved issue.

Your experience may be different.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1:43 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the
> v-berth door on our Landfall 38.
>
> At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the
> summer, but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple
> turns (due to masthead fall off in higher winds). And this winter when I
> had the mast out for rerig I noticed the v-berth door closed fine.
>
> Is this just normal flex for C's?  Anyone else had this issue?
>
> It's binding at the door jamb and the lower right half of the door. I
> tried to check the bulkhead to hull and deck joints, but it's hard to
> inspect those much since they're covered by a permanent liner.
>
> Releasing backstay tension doesn't help. So I suspect it's the fwd lowers
> or main shrouds that flex the hull the tiny amount needed to squeeze the
> door frame. I double checked that the tie rods are adequately tensioned and
> there's no upward inflexion of the deck at the U-bolts.
>
> The only thing I can think to do would be to sand down the lower half of
> the door edge and revarnish it.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

That looks like a Furuno CRT unit. They are actually quite nice radars. 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 2:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

 

Josh — is that REALLY a CRT radar display?  I haven’t seen one of those in 
years (except for the one somebody posted about a few weeks back, found in a 
river)…   :^)

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the
v-berth door on our Landfall 38.

At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the
summer, but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple
turns (due to masthead fall off in higher winds). And this winter when I
had the mast out for rerig I noticed the v-berth door closed fine.

Is this just normal flex for C's?  Anyone else had this issue?

It's binding at the door jamb and the lower right half of the door. I tried
to check the bulkhead to hull and deck joints, but it's hard to inspect
those much since they're covered by a permanent liner.

Releasing backstay tension doesn't help. So I suspect it's the fwd lowers
or main shrouds that flex the hull the tiny amount needed to squeeze the
door frame. I double checked that the tie rods are adequately tensioned and
there's no upward inflexion of the deck at the U-bolts.

The only thing I can think to do would be to sand down the lower half of
the door edge and revarnish it.

-Patrick
1984 C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Josh — is that REALLY a CRT radar display?  I haven’t seen one of those in 
years (except for the one somebody posted about a few weeks back, found in a 
river)…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk
>  
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

"Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we all
do."  I never gave it much thought but it seems that the folks at C might
have changed their methodology on the 37+.  I have a wide selection of
"coffe pot" type switches at the switch panel on the nav station to turn
on/off my electrical loads.  All the switches are wired to a bank of
terminal boards which are powered from a series of circuit breakers.  It is
rare for any circuit breakers to trip and unnecessary to operate them
unless they do.  The terminal boards and circuit breakers are tucked neatly
behind the nav station, during normal operation.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVzdkVFMyVGhqRjA/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Aug 10, 2017 1:06 PM, "svpegasus38 via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Paul,
Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we all
do. Me included. This being used as a switch will cause them to fail over
time. I believe you just had bad luck having 2 fail symotainiously. I like
paneltronics stuff. because I have used it in the past, and they will
custom build a panel for you.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus  (for sale)
Lf38
Rebecca Leah
LF39

 Original message 
From: Paul via CnC-List 
Date: 8/10/17 09:54 (GMT-08:00)
To: 'Ron Ricci' , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

My 2 problem breakers were from the 12v DC side of the panel.  The AC is the
left side and the DC is the right 2 sides. I have the main shut off switch
for the panel otherwise, there is not backup breaker for the DC.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416.799.5549 <(416)%20799-5549> c

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci [mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com]
Sent: August 10, 2017 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Electrical panel

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 10:47 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis is the "rinse/flush" sue to the salt buildup? Would you recommend
> the same for freshwater furlers? Thanks



Always an interesting question.  Yes and no.

I suspect a furler drum in salt water service gets some salt.  However, if
a swivel gets salt you've got serious issues and I suggest reducing sail
plan earlier.  :)  Hahaha.

Actually, in truth, the swivel can get salt.  Many of us who live or visit
the coasts can remember seeing a salty haze when the wind pipes up.  We see
salt on our vehicles windshields even when parked overnight well away from
the coast.

"Things aloft" are subject to spiders, bug nests, pollen, wind blown dust,
etc.  Definitely not unheard of to find spider webs, etc. in wind
instruments.  Swivels are exposed to the same perils.

All I know is, when my furler starts to get "wanky", I drop the sail and
flush everything.  Seems to work.

On the surface, furlers seem pretty simple.  In actually, they are highly
engineered pieces of equipment which require competent installation,
correct alignment, halyard and forestay tensions within a fairly forgiving
range and routine maintenance.

Had a guy call me this week about an in mast furler system problem.  Said
the sail was stuck in the mast.  He tried to extract it with a come along
with no luck.  A come along???  Holy crap!!!  Lucky he didn't break
something.

Couple other comments on furlers.  Don't leave a wrap or two on your sheet
winches when furling in breeze.  The sheets will flog and the back and
forth action can break a winch.  Yup, I know.  I broke some teeth off the
skirt on my primaries until I figured that one out.  Oops.  Had alloy
winches.  Now have chrome bronze and stainless winches.

Never ever put the furling line on a winch.  Ease the sheets, turn upwind,
whatever but don't winch the furling line.  Helps to have a switchable
ratching block on the furling line.

Also make sure you have enough wraps on the drum to fully furl in breeze.
The easiest way to add more wraps is to carry the jibsheets forward and
wrap them around the furled sail a couple more times.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

3 issues:

1.  The circuit breakers. They are cheap enough on Fleabay or Port Supply 
or Defender new, I would never get used ones.

2.  The panel – nice new Blue Seas or Paneltronics look so good…but the 
actual breakers are the same as ever.

3.  The wiring behind them.
You may want to think about all 3

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 1:46 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

Paul,

Those look like standard A-series breakers with a white toggle.  They do fail.

Blue Sea, Paneltronics, and lots of others make or market them.

Why did you buy used?  I would have bought new.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 10:11 AM, Paul via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker

[Captain Bob via CnC-List]

Details on Craig List-post id: 6258371149___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Paul,

Those look like standard A-series breakers with a white toggle.  They do
fail.

Blue Sea, Paneltronics, and lots of others make or market them.

Why did you buy used?  I would have bought new.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 10:11 AM, Paul via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
> don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
> Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
> become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
> I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
> would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it
> as-is.
> I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M
>
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Hood
> 81 C - Refuge
> Georgian Bay
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Paul, Circuit breakers were not designed to be used as a switch, although we 
all do. Me included. This being used as a switch will cause them to fail over 
time. I believe you just had bad luck having 2 fail symotainiously. I like 
paneltronics stuff. because I have used it in the past, and they will custom 
build a panel for you. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus  (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Paul via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/10/17  09:54  (GMT-08:00) To: 'Ron Ricci' 
, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 
My 2 problem breakers were from the 12v DC side of the panel.  The AC is the
left side and the DC is the right 2 sides. I have the main shut off switch
for the panel otherwise, there is not backup breaker for the DC.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416.799.5549 c

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci [mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com] 
Sent: August 10, 2017 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Electrical panel

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Paul via CnC-List]

My 2 problem breakers were from the 12v DC side of the panel.  The AC is the
left side and the DC is the right 2 sides. I have the main shut off switch
for the panel otherwise, there is not backup breaker for the DC.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416.799.5549 c

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci [mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com] 
Sent: August 10, 2017 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Electrical panel

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boat operating manual

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

That is awesome. I am going to use your template to do this for my boat!
Thanks Dennis!!


Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 C MkII
in Victoria,BC

> On Aug 9, 2017, at 10:08 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> How many listers have operating instructions specific to their boat?  Good 
> for someone who doesn't know the boat.  Good to impress a potential buyer or 
> helpful for a new owner (I ain't selling!)
> 
> Touche' has a manual that, in addition to the operating instructions, 
> contains the boat's USCG and state documents, PHRF certificate, operating 
> manuals for various equipment like VHF, engine, stereo, etc.
> 
> I'm in the process of updating and improving the boat's basic operating 
> instructions.  It can be viewed at:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsdU5kZFZERHhlZEE 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Dennis is the "rinse/flush" sue to the salt buildup? Would you recommend the 
same for freshwater furlers? Thanks

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Thu, Aug 10, 2017 10:43 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler



Can't emphasis enough that a good flush of the swivel and drum are important.  
I  flush Touche's furler twice a year.  Just did it last week, in fact.  I can 
tell a difference before and after.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 9:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
wrote:



I had a similar problem that "went away" with a bearing flush and lube.  





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boat operating manual

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I have a set of checklists for Grenadine. In fact I just updated it yesterday 
so my crew can race her next week in my absence. I keep a laminated printout of 
it on board. My document is not as thorough as yours, largely because Grenadine 
doesn't have as many systems as Touche (refrigeration, navigation, inverter, 
etc.) but the basics are pretty similar. I've appended Grenadine's checklists 
below. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 



Grenadine Checklists 


Opening the Boat: 
* unlock and unlatch companionway and lazarets; put padlocks back 
* remove companionway hatch boards and stow below on port-side shelf 
* open forward hatch to air out boat 
* ensure vanity sink drain seacock is closed (it should be) 
* turn battery switch to all 
* manually pump bilge (handle in starboard lazaret) 


Preparing to Sail: 
* select a headsail: drifter<10mph, #2 genoa 10-20mph, #3 genoa >20mph 
* rig the headsail: shackle the tack, attach the halyard, tie & lead sheets 
* uncover & rig mainsail (attach halyard, unpile sheet & traveler lines) 
* get out winch handles (port lazaret, tupperware on shelf) 
* uncover tiller 
* stow loose items in cabin, put coolers & bags on floor 
* close forward hatch 


Starting the Engine: 
* open raw water intake seacock (in starboard lazaret, on hull, blue handle) 
* open fuel supply petcock (in starboard lazaret, above tank starboard forward 
corner) 
* run blower 5 minutes 
* pull out choke 
* pull out ignition 
* press starter button 
* push choke in as she warms up 


Getting Underway: 
* cast off all (four) dock lines 
* back her out of the slip. Look for traffic, anticipate what the wind will do 
to her. 
* while backing, the bow will move whichever way you point the tiller. 
* when clear of the slip, shift to forward and drive her out of the marina. 
* untie fenders & stow in port lazaret 
* close lifeline gate 


Setting Sail: 
* loosen mainsheet, outhaul, cunningham, reef lines 
* untie & raise mainsail 
* trim / tidy lines 
* shut off engine (push in ignition & blower) 
* leave shift lever in forward gear 
* untie & raise headsail, trim sheets 


Dousing Sails: 
* start engine per above checklist 
* drive into wind 
* douse headsail & tie down 
* douse mainsail, flake & tie down 


Docking: 
* hang fenders: two large ones to starboard; two small ones to port 
* open lifeline gate 
* drive her into the slip. Anticipate what the wind will do to her while 
docking. 
* crew step onto dock and pull / hold boat, cleat dock lines 


Putting the boat away: 

On Deck: 
* flake, bag & stow headsail 
* coil & stow sheets 
* shackle headsail halyard to flag halyard cleat on starboard lower shroud 
* shackle main halyard to stern pulpit brace on starboard side 
* flake, tie, & cover mainsail 
* cover tiller 
* put away winch handles (port lazaret, tupperware on shelf) 
* coil & hang, or flemish, all lines 

Below: 
* close & latch forward hatch 
* ensure head is flushed and empty 
* ensure vanity sink drain seacock is closed (it should be) 
* switch off all circuits at panel 
* turn battery switch to off 
* close raw water intake seacock 
* close fuel supply petcock 
* lock companionway & lazarets 
* close lifeline gate 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Electrical panel

[Paul via CnC-List]

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Can't emphasis enough that a good flush of the swivel and drum are
important.  I  flush Touche's furler twice a year.  Just did it last week,
in fact.  I can tell a difference before and after.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 9:35 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

I had a similar problem that "went away" with a bearing flush and lube.
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I had a similar problem that "went away" with a bearing flush and lube.
Mine would jam, (at the worst possible moments) then release if I released
tension on the halyard.  Am interested in what you learn/solve, I'm not
confident I really understood the issue or solved anything.
A halyard restrainer was recommended by Harken (without seeing the boat)
but it wasn't needed. What I have done is move the headsail up slightly by
adding shackles at the tack, (a protoype tack pennant) this to improve the
sheet lead, but it seems a good way to "prove" the usefulness of the
halyard restrainer without investing.

Dave  33-2


-- Forwarded message --
From: Danny Haughey 
To: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 16:28:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

forgot to mention, no halyard restrainer.  the sheave is right behind the
headstay, where the halyard exist the mast

On 8/9/2017 3:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Mark has identified two  probable culprits.

Drop the sail and flush both the swivel and the drum.  Flush liberally with
water from multiple angles.  Spray some McLube in both if you like.  It's
optional but a good idea.

While the sail is down, inspect, as best you can, all the joints in the
extrusion, if anything looks amiss, investigate it further.

Next, from off the boat, sight the furling line where it enters/exits the
drum.  It should be very close to perpendicular.  If necessary, reposition
the forwardmost furling line block to achieve perpendicular.  The furling
line should move up and down as it feeds on the drum.  If it coils in the
top, move the block down.  If it coils low, move the block up.

As a last check, have a friend furl and unfurl the sail while you observe
the swivel and halyard from a distance with binoculars.

Do you have a halyard restrainer?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 2:16 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> My old Harken furler was sticking 2 yrs ago - one day at an anchorage I
> decided to investigate by pulling the sail in and out a couple times by
> hand - the "stick" seemed subtle but suddenly a hundred Torlon balls rained
> down from the mast head!  Seems my retaining ring clamp on the upper swivel
> had come partially out of the groove - when it let go I sprinkled the
> anchorage with the innards of the swivel.
>
> I'd suggest you drop the sail and check the swivel at the top first, see
> if it's spinning freely  and all intact before you start testing other
> parts of the system.
>
> Other obvious potential issues would be the a catch in the feed line,
> jamming in the drum etc.
>
> Mark
>
> CS30 - Prosecco
>
> Deep Cove, Nova Scotia
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
> On 2017-08-09 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It seems to
>> get stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take much to get it past the
>> sticking point and I can still roll it in by hand without too much effort.
>> I'm going down in Saturday to play around with it.  Do any of you have any
>> advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> Danny
>>
>> Mattapoisett, MA
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 47

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I did not.

For anyone contemplating this upgrade and purchasing from Whitewater, make sure 
to run a tap through each post before bolting the handrail down.  Whitewater 
apparently does not do this, and the heat from welding distorts some of the 
threads.  We broke a couple bolts installing the handrails, which created an 
unwanted winter project.

From: paul.hood via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2017 4:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: paul.hood 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 47





Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


For those of you who installed the stainless steel grab rail.  Did anybody nurl 
the rail and did it prevent the slippage problem

Paul Hood
81 C 34 - Refuge
Georgian Bay


Rick,

You are correct.  The holes are not standard.  They were apparently drilled
in place.  As such each one has minute differences in placement.  That's
why the templates are so important.  I will say that despite the appearance
of the wood rails the SS ones are so much stronger and easier to maintain.
Always clean and never need polished.  They are slippery and if it was
anyone's habit to stand on the wooden rails then they will be surprised by
the insecure footing which is provided by the SS ones.  That being said I
would sooner tie off to the SS rails than just about any other deck mounted
fitting aside from maybe the bow and stern cleats.

Josh





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Danny,

If I recall correctly, Harken recommends a minimum divergence between the
forestay and halyard of 7 degrees.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 7:15 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So, I take pictures constantly of various parts of the boat and systems.
> I went back through and found that the halyard being used is actually
> coming out of one of the spin sheaves.  so, the first thing I'm going to do
> is get that back into the sheave right behind the headstay just below the
> top attachment point.  This leads me to think it would be an issue of not
> having a halyard restrainer.  I made sure the rigging was nice and tight
> during the launch a few weeks ago.  I believe the theory of the line being
> wrapped around the drum loosely is also causing me some grief and the angle
> Dennis speaks of may also need some adjustment.
>
> This has been an incredibly helpful conversation!  Thank you all so much
> for offering the thoughts and insights!
>
> I will definitely update my progress!
> Danny
>
> On 8/9/2017 4:28 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
>
> forgot to mention, no halyard restrainer.  the sheave is right behind the
> headstay, where the halyard exist the mast
>
> On 8/9/2017 3:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Mark has identified two  probable culprits.
>
> Drop the sail and flush both the swivel and the drum.  Flush liberally
> with water from multiple angles.  Spray some McLube in both if you like.
> It's optional but a good idea.
>
> While the sail is down, inspect, as best you can, all the joints in the
> extrusion, if anything looks amiss, investigate it further.
>
> Next, from off the boat, sight the furling line where it enters/exits the
> drum.  It should be very close to perpendicular.  If necessary, reposition
> the forwardmost furling line block to achieve perpendicular.  The furling
> line should move up and down as it feeds on the drum.  If it coils in the
> top, move the block down.  If it coils low, move the block up.
>
> As a last check, have a friend furl and unfurl the sail while you observe
> the swivel and halyard from a distance with binoculars.
>
> Do you have a halyard restrainer?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 2:16 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> My old Harken furler was sticking 2 yrs ago - one day at an anchorage I
>> decided to investigate by pulling the sail in and out a couple times by
>> hand - the "stick" seemed subtle but suddenly a hundred Torlon balls rained
>> down from the mast head!  Seems my retaining ring clamp on the upper swivel
>> had come partially out of the groove - when it let go I sprinkled the
>> anchorage with the innards of the swivel.
>>
>> I'd suggest you drop the sail and check the swivel at the top first, see
>> if it's spinning freely  and all intact before you start testing other
>> parts of the system.
>>
>> Other obvious potential issues would be the a catch in the feed line,
>> jamming in the drum etc.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> CS30 - Prosecco
>>
>> Deep Cove, Nova Scotia
>>
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>>
>>
>> On 2017-08-09 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It seems to
>>> get stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take much to get it past the
>>> sticking point and I can still roll it in by hand without too much effort.
>>> I'm going down in Saturday to play around with it.  Do any of you have any
>>> advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance!
>>>
>>> Danny
>>>
>>> Mattapoisett, MA
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous 

Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

So, I take pictures constantly of various parts of the boat and 
systems.  I went back through and found that the halyard being used is 
actually coming out of one of the spin sheaves.  so, the first thing I'm 
going to do is get that back into the sheave right behind the headstay 
just below the top attachment point.  This leads me to think it would be 
an issue of not having a halyard restrainer.  I made sure the rigging 
was nice and tight during the launch a few weeks ago.  I believe the 
theory of the line being wrapped around the drum loosely is also causing 
me some grief and the angle Dennis speaks of may also need some adjustment.


This has been an incredibly helpful conversation!  Thank you all so much 
for offering the thoughts and insights!


I will definitely update my progress!

Danny

On 8/9/2017 4:28 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:


forgot to mention, no halyard restrainer.  the sheave is right behind 
the headstay, where the halyard exist the mast



On 8/9/2017 3:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Mark has identified two  probable culprits.

Drop the sail and flush both the swivel and the drum. Flush liberally 
with water from multiple angles.  Spray some McLube in both if you 
like.  It's optional but a good idea.


While the sail is down, inspect, as best you can, all the joints in 
the extrusion, if anything looks amiss, investigate it further.


Next, from off the boat, sight the furling line where it enters/exits 
the drum.  It should be very close to perpendicular.  If necessary, 
reposition the forwardmost furling line block to achieve 
perpendicular.  The furling line should move up and down as it feeds 
on the drum.  If it coils in the top, move the block down.  If it 
coils low, move the block up.


As a last check, have a friend furl and unfurl the sail while you 
observe the swivel and halyard from a distance with binoculars.


Do you have a halyard restrainer?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 2:16 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
> wrote:



My old Harken furler was sticking 2 yrs ago - one day at an
anchorage I decided to investigate by pulling the sail in and out
a couple times by hand - the "stick" seemed subtle but suddenly a
hundred Torlon balls rained down from the mast head!  Seems my
retaining ring clamp on the upper swivel had come partially out
of the groove - when it let go I sprinkled the anchorage with the
innards of the swivel.

I'd suggest you drop the sail and check the swivel at the top
first, see if it's spinning freely  and all intact before you
start testing other parts of the system.

Other obvious potential issues would be the a catch in the feed
line, jamming in the drum etc.

Mark

CS30 - Prosecco

Deep Cove, Nova Scotia


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


On 2017-08-09 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It
seems to get stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take
much to get it past the sticking point and I can still roll
it in by hand without too much effort.  I'm going down in
Saturday to play around with it.  Do any of you have any
advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?

Thanks in advance!

Danny

Mattapoisett, MA


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our
members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!