Stus-List Re: Painting Rudders White.
John, I winter in northern Michigan, and I have no doubt that the sun hitting one side of my rudder when on the hard through the winter heated up that side(vc 17 gray) drawing moisture to that side, and freezing at night. That side of rudder developed hairline, very hairline, cracks in gel coat. I had rudder dried out, glassed over and all is fine. But I do understand others have at least wrapped rudder in something to prevent the heating a mbv d freezing. Bill Walker CnC 36Pentwater, Mi. On Friday, January 7, 2022, 01:53:14 PM EST, John McCrea via CnC-List wrote: Curious if anyone has been told that you should paint their rudders white to prevent issues when the boat is out for the winter? One of the staff at my winter yard told me he has seen C rudders burst due to the sun heating them up? I used to do this on my past Ericson 32 as the previous owner had and told me that they had similar issues. Did not on our last C 37XL nor our current, and the previous owner of 25 years did not. I am so buried with other boats around me I doubt I even get any sun exposure. I assume once the boat is in the water it does not matter. Thanks! John McCrea Talisman 1979 36-1 Mystic, CT Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Garboard
Finally Did this 2 years ago..best thing ever did for the boat. Look in archives, there is recent thread with good ideas Bill Walker On Monday, November 22, 2021, 09:26:16 AM EST, Tom Sancton via CnC-List wrote: Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this? Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat through the mast Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Fwd: Read Sarah’s review
Kevin, My apologies to youdry humor never comes through...I knew you must gave been hacked or mistaking sent this to list...sincerely, meant no harm or disrespect and accept your scolding.Bill Walker On Saturday, October 16, 2021, 01:29:20 PM EDT, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote: My apologies to everyone. That message was not intended for the list. I asked Stu to take it down early this morning. Bill Walker, would your time be better spent winterizing your old boat and finishing the headliner installation? I wish for you at least a few more spring launches. Please do not message me directly or on this list again. Fair winds and stay classy everybody! On Sat, Oct 16, 2021 at 8:24 AM David Risch via CnC-List wrote: Done and done. (Mistake I am sure) Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:34:26 AM To: Stus-List Cc: Joel Delamirande Subject: Stus-List Re: Fwd: Read Sarah’s review What going on here On Sat, Oct 16, 2021 at 10:30 AM Matthew via CnC-List wrote: And throw some used cotter pins on his deck. From: WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 8:42 AM To: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List Cc: WILLIAM WALKER Subject: Stus-List Re: Fwd: Read Sarah’s review No, I say we flood his inbox, and drill holes in his hull... Bill Walker Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu -- Joel Delamirandewww.jdroofing.ca Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Fwd: Read Sarah’s review
No, I say we flood his inbox, and drill holes in his hull...Bill Walker On Saturday, October 16, 2021, 08:06:14 AM EDT, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List wrote: Is this supposed to be here? On Fri, Oct 15, 2021 at 11:55 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote: See private feedback -- Forwarded message - From: Airbnb Date: Fri, Oct 15, 2021, 7:16 PM Subject: Read Sarah’s review To: | | | | | | | Here’s what Sarah wrote | | | | | Sarah | We loved our stay at Kevin and Lisa’s house. Communication was excellent. They even checked in with us a couple of times during our stay to see how we were doing and if we needed anything. The spacious house is located a block from the main street in White Salmon. It’s very nicely decorated, beds are comfortable as is the whole house. We would definitely stay here again. White Salmon is a tiny town but with some great food. Make sure you visit the local bakery! | | | | | Sarah’s private feedback for you: | | “We loved our stay! Thank you for being so communicative hosts. Great house, great location, really nice design, and and very comfortable! Given your attention to detail, there are a couple of things you might like to know... the pots and pans are in a bit of disarray. The single skillet which has a non-stick surface, was pretty scratched up. Only one pot had a lid that fit, the other lids were kind of random and one was broken. Some of the pots also not super clean. Also, the utensil drawer was kind of dirty. Otherwise the house was spotless, and these observations are just for you.” | | | | | | | | Now that you’ve both written reviews, we’ve posted them to your Airbnb profiles. While Sarah’s feedback can’t be changed or removed, you can write a response that will appear directly below it. | | | Write a response | | | | | | | | | Common questions | | How do reviews work? | | How do star ratings work? | | Can I leave a review after 14 days? | | | | | | Coronavirus updates: Airbnb.com/COVID | | Visit our new site to learn more about how we’re supporting our global community of hosts during this difficult time. From updating you on our cancellation policies to answering your top hosting questions, we’re here to help. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Airbnb, Inc. | | 888 Brannan St. | | San Francisco, CA 94103, USA | | | | | | Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu -- Joel Delamirandewww.jdroofing.ca Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Solar charger
Good morning!First, I am not an electrical engineer. So I would appreciate keeping that in mind.What I would appreciate is a recommendation with specific model, make, etc. Of a solar charger with any gizmos built in that could keep my house batteries, two agm (I think 200 amp hour?) topped up while on my mooring. I am thinking of installing a plug in lazarette wired to batteries that could receive plug from the solar charger. Not trying to run my refrigeration, but boy that would be nice! Cold beer when I arrive.Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Sails for sale
Guys and Gals,This is premature, but testing the water.I have a Main, #s 1, 2, & 3 headsails for a 1981 CnC 36 in UK Tape Drive for sale. #s 1 & 3 are in nearly new condition. Main in good to excellent condition. #2 was roller furled and used a lot, needs new sun protection and some repair. Not a lot of life left in this one.I am in Pentwater Michigan, heading to Cincinnati, Ohio next week. Shipping likely prohibitive but could pick up in either Michigan or Ohio. PM me questions or for photos. Price negotiable, make me an offer. No rush, will hold for spring delivery if we make a deal.You wont be disappointed. Bill Walker Qwerty Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Painting cabin headliner
On my 1981 C n C 36 the cabin interior headliner is a vinyl glued to a thin sheet of Luan plywood. I have removed all and am going to seal coat the plywood with epoxy. Wondering if anyone painted theirs and how it turned out and lasted. I see some spray paint for plastics and wonder if that might work. I could remove the vinyl and start over but that seems like a lot of work...Bill WalkerEvening StarPENTWATER, Mi.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Steering cable
Great idea...I will put that in my data bank...Bill WalkerC n C 36Pentwater, Mi. On Thursday, August 12, 2021, 03:46:38 PM EDT, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List wrote: FWI. Back in the day of rigging airplanes. I would use heat shrink (non adhesive type) to connect the old and new cables. Pull out old cable gently and new will be routed correctly. Doug Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: George Harding Cuthbertson's Binder 1982 - 2008
Sent $ before you raise the goal, lol.Bill Walker On Monday, August 9, 2021, 01:41:02 PM EDT, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List wrote: I should have made it a harder challenge :-) Thanks to all that contributed to the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes campaign to digitize the C drawings collection If you haven't been following along, I am scanning GHC's personal binders of articles, notes, photos and correspondence. They start with his birth and follow his growth as a sailor, designer and gentleman. Dad left C in 1982, but continued his interest in her and the yachting world. You will see some of his other designs because even though he stopped being the chief designer in 1972 he never did stop designing. There are some repeat articles, do not feel the deja vu feeling is unwarranted. Also I do not have any permission to reprint any of these articles and the copywrites belong to the original publisher/writer. Here we go... George Harding Cuthbertson's Binder 1982 - 2008 https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D023919_94423331_3261504 Thanks to all who helped get this one released. and if you have missed them Binder # 1 - 1950 to 1969 https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D023919_94423331_3816606 Binder # 2 - 1969 to 1982 https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D023919_94423331_3015985 Binder # 3 - 1982 to 2008 https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D023919_94423331_3261504 Binder # 4 - 2008 - Not Released Yet Binder # 5 - Job Index 1950 - 1979 https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D023919_94423331_3816606 Binder #6 - GHC Slides https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D023919_94423331_3175593 Binder #7 - GHC Photos - Not Released Yet Binder # 8 - not there yet :-) Enjoy JohnKelly Cuthbertson Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: PSS Stuffing Box
Steve, Raw water intake is drawing water in by means of a pump...no such mechanism is involved with a PSS seal. Bill Walker CnC 36Pentwater, Mi. On Tuesday, July 13, 2021, 12:45:23 PM EDT, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote: Bob, In the 20 years I've had my C, little bits of wood or twigs have got sucked into the engine cooling water intake on several occasions and lodged in unobvious places. They caused partial blockages that were hard to diagnose and are memorable for that reason. Our sailing club is small river leading into Lake Erie so there is a lot of crap being driven down steam from time to time. Count yourself lucky if you don't have that problem. Steve Thomas C MKIII - Port Stanley, Ontario C MKI - Merritt Island, Florida -- Original Message -- From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: dainyr...@icloud.com Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 11:55 AM Subject: Stus-List Re: PSS Stuffing Box Fred: I’ve never heard or imagined anything so strange. First, the shaft seal is a good foot or more below the waterline. Pieces of wood generally float—so they would normally be near the surface of the water. And then have a piece of wood lodge between the stainless and graphite seal on top of all that! I would think the odds of that happening by natural occurrence would be astronomical. Bob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail: dainyr...@icloud.com On Jul 13, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote: Years ago a small piece of wood came up thru the shaft log into the bellows and wedged itself between the stainless and graphite rings. The boat sank overnight. The moral of this story is that you should periodically check the pressure of the bellows. My stainless ring had slipped. Fred HazzardS/V Fury C 44 Sent from my iPhone On Jul 13, 2021, at 6:41 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: Jeff, As you mentioned earlier, this topic shows up every so often. As a PSS user, I am obviously biased. The stuck graphite face was an issue in older designs (the unvented type). The Volvo version of the dripless seal still requires burping. I can imagine that if I were to sail around the world, I might prefer the traditional stuffing box (the maintenance is easier and the spare parts can be fabricated by a skilled blacksmith ()), but if you sail in the area where spare parts are generally available, the dripless solution is completely reliable. I am happy with my dry bilge. Marek 1994 C270 Legato Ottawa, ON From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 9:25 AM To: Steve Thomas via CnC-List Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box Let's exclude power boats -- an entirely different environment and demand on the hardware. Jeff L. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box
I have had PSS droplets on two boats for over 20 years with absolutely no issues. I wonder if failure related to fact it was power boat with more hours of turning shaft at higher rpms and maybe not sufficient cooling?In the end, it's what let's you sleep at night that's important.Bill Walker On Tuesday, July 13, 2021, 08:34:58 AM EDT, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote: The power boat that was docked next to me at a marina in Florida experienced such a failure. I was there when it happened. The owner knocked on my boat and wanted a portable water pump if I had one. Long story short, water came in faster than the bilge pumps could get it out and he got an emergency tow $$$ to the travel lift for a haul out. There was another failure that I did not personally witness within a year or so of that event. This was at a 600 slip marina, not a scientific sample or experiment I concede, but enough to scare me off. I make no claim that the devices were properly maintained, just that bronze packing glands don't shatter. It may be that newer "dripless" designs exist that won't fail in this way, I don't know, but I know for a fact that some designs can and do under some circumstances. Steve Thomas C MKIII - Ontario C MKI - Florida -- Original Message -- From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: jlam...@outlook.com Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 7:47 AM Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box Hello all, From time to time this discussion of stuffing box vs PSS dripless comes up and catastrophic failure is typically mentioned. Has anyone on this list experienced a PSS catastrophic failure (that is the fault of PSS) or have direct knowledge of someone who did? Installed PSS 4 years ago. Maintenance free = more time sailing. Jeff Laman 1981 C Harmony Ludington, Mi Get Outlook for Android From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 7:34:29 AM To: Stus-List Cc: Robert Boyer Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing BoxI’ve had a PSS shaft seal for our long time on our LF38 with no problems except when a shaft key broke and allowed the shaft to slip. However, the same thing could have happened with packing. I would never consider going back to packing. Bob Bob Boyer s/v Rainy Days C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) (Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay) blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com email: dainyr...@icloud.com On Jul 13, 2021, at 7:26 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: +1 on that; though I have mine for only 9 years. Marek 1994 #122 ”Legato” Ottawa, ON From: ssjohnson via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 12, 2021 11:10 PM To: Stus-List Cc: ssjohnson Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box I've had a PSS shafted, and a DRY bilge for 10 years...think it is great. Spencer Johnson 84 LF38 Racine, WI Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: C 37r coming to market soon
Where is 37R located? On Thursday, July 8, 2021, 08:04:26 AM EDT, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List wrote: Me too I would like to revive the brand I curious to see the boat On Thu, Jul 8, 2021 at 6:22 AM Bob Tallman wrote: Good morning, 37R is for the racing model of that line.You had:37+37 XL37 RNote that they are all 40 foot boats, the fun part of a decision to stretch out the hull and add more stuff but keep the name. And most marinas know the model is a 40 so not much savings per foot there. I owned a 37+ center board, she was fast as well, pointing was not so bad since the CB was actually a large stainless disk that dropped down, not a traditional dagger board.There were shoal keels and deep fin versions as well. The R is the race circuit model and yes it is a fast boat. Nice interior but no aft berth, it was a racing setup. Mid ship berths etc?.. The XL was the blended version. Had all the creature comforts, taller rig, similar to the R, but setup was more cruiser vs. racer. Great line, just the dang C window problem but all fixable?. I moved on to a 121, love C, wish they would magically make one more new run of the lines??.. On Thu, Jul 8, 2021 at 5:45 AM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List wrote: That would be greatWhat does the R stand for? On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 9:18 PM Danny via CnC-List wrote: Hello all, A friend of mine, who is not on the list, is about to list his beautiful C 37r for sale. I don't know all the details yet but, i do know it's been very well cared for, is in great condition, and is really fast! I've been on this boat a number of times. It's in really great shape! Let me know if there are any questions I can get answers to. I'll get year and price and such soon. I just thought i would throw this out there in case anyone was looking or knew someone that might be interested. Thanks, DannyThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu -- Joel Delamirandewww.jdroofing.ca Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu -- Regards, Bob Tallman 631.387.6748 -- Joel Delamirandewww.jdroofing.ca Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats
Dont know your location. I am in Michigan. Have mine through Fremont Insurance Co. Agreed value policy, inland marine policy terms with all gear, etc. Reasonable and no problem. I have been with them 10 years. My boat is 40 this year. Bill Walker C 36Pentwater, Mi. On Tuesday, June 22, 2021, 09:04:30 AM EDT, David Morris via CnC-List wrote: In the course of jumping through hoops imposed by our insurance carrier for our 1975 C 30 MK1, I had an email from a senior VP with Gallagher Skipper’s Plan that says, in part: “In the today’s market it is extremely difficult to find insurers willing to write sailboats over 40 years old. These boats have a high incidence of fires, rigging failures, pulled chainplates, and rudder failures and are considered high risk. Five insurance companies have stopped offering quotes for sailboats over 30 and the few that will offer it are very picky.” This, of course, is highly concerning. Any recommendation for a carrier that is more favourably inclined to cover an older boat would be most appreciated. David Morris | | This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com | Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Shroud tension
Good morning, I dont have a loose gauge for my solid shrouds. Wondering how much slack do you see on leeward shrouds when on beam reach in 10 knots of wind? Shrouds seem tight enough when at the dock, but a little floppy on leeward side when sailing.Bill Walker CnC 36-1Pentwater, Mi.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Gelcoat colour matching
Yes, I got color strips from home depot, found a good match and took kiwis grip there. They tinted for free. Color match was excellent and holding up well after about 7 years. Thinking of recoating this summer, but wearing very well.Bill Walker Evening StarCnC 36Pentwater, Mi On Monday, May 24, 2021, 04:33:56 PM EDT, Robert Mazza via CnC-List wrote: On a ralated subject, has anyone tintedwhite Kiwi Grip to better match the off- white gelcoat surrounding it? Rob On Sun, May 23, 2021, 11:12 AM Dave S via CnC-List, wrote: Same question for hull chips - small batch for touch up of my 33-2For the deck - I had a gallonof gel coat tinted by Canada composites - I had a core section of deck where I polished the non skid and matched it to their box of samples - worked very well. Dave 33-2 windstar Sent from my iPhone On May 23, 2021, at 9:24 AM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote: Hello I am sure this has been asked before. Has anyone produced the colour charts for gelcoat repair? I replaced a number of stanchion bases and now have some holes to repair. (I have the epoxy etc just looking for the final topcoat to match the rest of the deck)Our decks are that slightly off-white light beige colour. I am in Nova Scotia so may try Burnside Fibreglass. Thanks AdamC 36State of Bliss Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: handrail
Bo,Are there visible bungs on top of handrail? If so remove them and see if screwed from top.If no bungs on top of handrail they must be screwed from below. Get a bright light in one Hole and see if you can see screw head. I would be shocked if someone epoxied to deck. Would be very weak connection as grain of wood would be weak point.Bill Walker CnC 36 On Tuesday, April 13, 2021, 09:27:29 PM CDT, General Gao via CnC-List wrote: Hi Bob, I have not, I gave it a little bit force and it "rocked" slightly. I just didn't want to break anything. Are they built with dowel pins? are those two outer holes for the dowel pins? Bo On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 5:37 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote: Handrail is probably epoxied onto deck. Have you tried sliding a putty knife beneath each section? On 04/13/2021 5:07 PM General Gao via CnC-List wrote: mine is wood external handrail. In the picture in this link, the hole in the middle is where in the cabin handrail screw goes in; the two on the outside were hidden under the cabin handrail, exposed after I took the it off. I tried to see and feel, there was no metal inside. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bS3eUTqnZ3ZGLnMtNmKw2Q4gB7Emy8UN/view?usp=sharing Am I missing something? Advice would be appreciated. Thx. Bo On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 1:26 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Mine and likely others have nuts welded(SS) or pressed (wood) into the external handrail standoffs. Thus a bolt/screw on the inside screws into these nuts--more or less! I say this because depending on how well the cabin-top holes match the external hand rail standoffs, it may not be possible to get a bolt/screw into each standoff. If this is the case, some of the standoffs may not have bolts/screws in them. In my case, with SS steel external rails and standoffs, there is no way to get a misaligned screw hole to accept a nut or screw, without re drilling a new hole or enlarging the original one. Charlie Nelson -Original Message- From: General Gao via CnC-List To: Stus-List Cc: General Gao Sent: Tue, Apr 13, 2021 12:51 pm Subject: Stus-List Re: handrail So I took the handrail inside the cabin off, exposed the holes hidden, I assume those are for the handrail outside the cabin. There seems to be no screws in those holes. Is the outside handrail attached to the cabin with screws or something? Mine isn’t coming off yet. Thx Bo On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 12:21 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Agree, I said glue but always use varnish. Bill Walker On Monday, March 29, 2021, 06:47:16 AM EDT, James Hesketh via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: WILLIAM wrote: snip >> After the glue dries use a Sharp chisel to level, a little sandpaper and the apply finish. I'd always been told it's better to set bungs (the plugs) by dipping them in varnish before tapping them into place. That way, the varnish will act as a waterproofer and semi-adhesive, but then they can be removed easily next time. With glue they would need to be drilled out. Jim Hesketh C 26 Whisper Miami, FL Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Hello?
So, I haven't gotten any emails for a couple days. None in spam or trash. Is it just quiet?Bill Walker Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: handrail
Agree, I said glue but always use varnish.Bill Walker On Monday, March 29, 2021, 06:47:16 AM EDT, James Hesketh via CnC-List wrote: WILLIAM wrote: snip >> After the glue dries use a Sharp chisel to level, a little sandpaper and the apply finish. I'd always been told it's better to set bungs (the plugs) by dipping them in varnish before tapping them into place. That way, the varnish will act as a waterproofer and semi-adhesive, but then they can be removed easily next time. With glue they would need to be drilled out. Jim HeskethC 26 WhisperMiami, FL Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: handrail
Yes, it is just plug covering screw head. Use point of knife or small screwdriver to split plug with the grain of wood. You can buy a plug cutter for your drill at most big bo stores and find a teak scrap to cut new plug. Simple.When reinstall they will be proud of surface. After the glue dries use a Sharp chisel to level, a little sandpaper and the apply finish.Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi. On Sunday, March 28, 2021, 03:30:31 PM EDT, General Gao via CnC-List wrote: Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I found out this last year when there was rain and I found water inside the cabin where the handrail was. This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I took a closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood stud, do I just use a knife to pop it off to access the screws? https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing Thank you in advance. BoThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List 12 volt tv
Thanks all for comments and suggestions. Ran the idea past the commodore and I am tabling idea. But, I did find a number of reasonable options on Amazon with built in dvd players. Still may take the plunge.Bill Walker CnC 36Pentwater, Mi. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: 12 volt tv
Thanks, helpful. I have an old dell.. On Thursday, March 18, 2021, 06:32:11 PM EDT, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: This may not exactly be the direction you want to go but I find old laptops with USB DTV dongles and DVD players to be great options. Pick one with an available cigarette lighter charge adapter so that you can charge with 12v. I like the Dell latitude series. I have an e6540 that I use as a daily. It is quite functional as a desktop computer for all needs while underway. It has Bluetooth so connecting to the Bluetooth stereo is great for filling the boat with sound OR connecting to wireless headphones to enjoy privately while someone is sleeping. I suppose that if you need anything larger than a 15 inch screen this won't help. With the DTV adapters you should consider an alternative antenna and USB extension cable. I would mount the USB adapter in a fixed location and then connect with the USB extension when desired. This would allow a semi permanent connection to the antenna and a semi permanent antenna mount. The antenna connects with a common SMA or SMB connector and can be easily changed to a common digital antenna F coax cable. SMA to F coaxhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/SMB-MCX-MMCX-FME-Male-to-SMA-Female-Plug-Coaxial-Antenna-Connector-Adapter-/153773757987?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 USB DTV adapterhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/USB2-0-FM-DAB-DVB-T-RTL2832U-R820T2-RTL-SDR-SDR-Dongle-Stick-Digital-TV-Tuner-/284162576356?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Laptophttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E6540-Laptop-2-8GHz-Core-i7-4810MQ-16GB-RAM-No-HDD-No-Battery-/294069605811?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Cigarette adapterhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/90W-Premium-Laptop-Car-Charger-for-Dell-DC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Cord-19-5V-4-62A-/153437407849?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 15:33 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote: Looking at installing 12 volt tv with built in dvd player and digital antenna to entertain spouse with movies in the evening.Anybody tackled this? Issues I haven't thought about? Bill Walker CnC 36Pentwater, Mi.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List 12 volt tv
Looking at installing 12 volt tv with built in dvd player and digital antenna to entertain spouse with movies in the evening.Anybody tackled this? Issues I haven't thought about? Bill Walker CnC 36Pentwater, Mi.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?
Ted, Could you provide info on parts you used? What material did you use as base for track? I assume replace two of the toe rail machine screws with proper length. Love this idea. Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi. On Thursday, March 11, 2021, 06:32:04 AM EST, Dave S via CnC-List wrote: That’s a cool solution. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 10, 2021, at 1:41 PM, Ted Drossos via CnC-List wrote: Here's a link to how I added a midship cleat.https://www.facebook.com/groups/206427463229026/permalink/298001127404992 Ted DrossosC 110Lady in RedBay Shore, NY -Original Message- From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com Sent: Wed, Mar 10, 2021 2:27 am Subject: Stus-List midship cleats on aluminum rail? A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a solution for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline placement. I’m currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which seems strong, but I’d like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. Haven’t seen anything in the catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a soft shackle through a rail hole might be a good fix. Given the general opinion that midship cleating is handy, I’m curious what you use.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Rendezvous
Guys, my apologies for leaving the Zoom meeting last night without saying goodbye...I got a message on my computer that my internet was unstable (not me, my internet) and then it just quite.Hope to join again in the future. Encourage others to do so too.Thanks Stu for hosting.Bill Walker Evening StarCnC 36Pentwater, Mi.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Rendezvous Reminder
Joel, You may have to copy the url and paste into your browser.BillCnC 36 On Sunday, February 28, 2021, 10:30:19 AM EST, Stu via CnC-List wrote: Joel – must be on your end. I tried and it worked – others have already registered. Stay safe & healthyStu From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2021 10:02 AMTo: Stus-List Cc: Joel Delamirande Subject: Stus-List Re: Rendezvous Reminder The link don’t work On Sat, Feb 27, 2021 at 9:24 AM Stu via CnC-List wrote: Just a short reminder that we will be hosting our Zoomer Virtual Rendezvous on Tuesday, March 2, 2021 07:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada) Please register in advance for this meeting: https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZYsf-qtrj4iE9LXUBj7mpO6xs2n7sRj75Yd After registering, you will receive instructions containing information about joining the meeting. Stay safe & healthy Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu -- Joel Delamirandewww.jdroofing.ca Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind
Charlie, I sail and race Lake Michigan. I moved from a UK laminate to Nordac in 2019. My previous UK was a 145, furled beautifully.I went with a 150 Nordac since I too felt I gave up too much on August light air days. It is a MUCH heavier sail, but still furls nicely, though the furled profile is larger. More weight aloft for sure. Unless your phrf area is different than Lake Michigan phrf rules you will not get any additional credit (beyond the normal 3% for furling headsail) for going to a smaller head sail. Undersized sails are not credited here. Check the rules for your area. I think the Nordac are well made, good shape. I wasnt quite ready for the weight and bulk when furled. Bill Walker CnC 36Pentwater, Michigan On Monday, February 8, 2021, 11:23:05 PM EST, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: Hello all listers. I have a hypothetical for the racers among you. I need to replace my 3DL headsail--its mostly patches after ~ 5 years of club racing locally. This is about my 3rd laminate style headsail---and my last! I am probably going with the North 3D Nordac which has replaced the former 3DL technology with what they call a composite sail--not laminated but still built over a 3D mold of the sail shape desired--if I understand this correctly. I do not need the super light and costly Raw or Endurance. Anyhow, I plan to move to a new sailing area off Southport, NC near Bald Head Island at the mouth of the Cape Fear River--basically on the NC coast. All my club racing to date has been in the Pamlico and Neuse Rivers, occasionally racing to Ocracoke across the Pamlico Sound. For these areas, a 155% headsail is the largest you can race with locally without penalty and so that is what I have always used. The North sail maker suggested because of the higher coastal winds that I may not need a 155% since the wind strength is higher at the coast. OTOH, a racer there uses a 155% headsail and says he does well with it. I checked the historical average wind speed for Southport and New Bern and the coastal winds are from 20-25% higher than at New Bern. For instance, the avg. wind speed varies from 5.5-8.1 knots in New Bern vs. about 7-10 knots in Southport, or about 25% higher on average. Further, I know from experience that my masthead rig becomes seriously overpowered once the wind gets greater than about 12 knots true, when its time to reef the main(I only have 1 reef point) and if it goes above ~ 15 knots, I need to roll the headsail a few turns (or change down to a 135% or 90% headsail). I am not inclined to go less than the 155% allowed locally (PHRF) but maybe I should--the local North guy suggested ~ 140%. This might better match the local wind and is less expensive since less material is used. OTOH, I don't want to be under canvassed on the light air days. Further, there is the question of sail material weight to consider. I plan for this to be my last headsail purchase and may use it some for local cruising in addition to club racing. BTW, it will be used on a furler either way. So what would the listers do!! Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Kiwi Grip
I did my cockpit sole about 5 years ago. Still looks great. I am a OEM kind of guy, and it looks and feels like original. Two suggestions, 1. Practice a little on a piece of plywood to get the feel for texture you want. 2. Get a bunch of paint chips from Home Depot, etc. to match your color and they will tint for free, at least mine did.Took less than one quart.Bill WalkerC & C 36Pentwater, Mi. On Tuesday, January 26, 2021, 07:36:10 AM EST, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: I did my cockpit with Kiwi grip about 5 years ago and am still very happy with the results. I only needed a liter and my wife and I had an easy time applying it. About $50 at Defender. Dave S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT On Jan 25, 2021, at 10:50 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote: Hey Tom, Do you remember how many gallons of Kiwi Grip were used on your 35 and what they cost? Thanks, Chuck S On 01/25/2021 10:44 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote: We used Kiwi grip on our 35 MK 1. Once the masking was done it went on easily. I can’t say how long it held up since we got 5 footitis and got Alera within a year or two. Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40 Vashon WAP 206.463.9200 C 305.409.3660 On Jan 25, 2021, at 7:40 PM, cenelson via CnC-List wrote: Any thoughts about Kiwi grip?. Relatively cheap, easily applied and tinted by DIYers and it holds up well. Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS On Monday, January 25, 2021, 7:31 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote: I bought the same stuff off Amazon a few years ago that George referenced above. It was such a nice change and from a grip, comfort, and cooling standpoint. I will say that the grey layer on top is thin and became unbonded to the black substrate below, eventually falling off completely. This may have been from sun/rain exposure over the two years. The black substrate makes up the bulk of the thickness and is the EVA foam I believe. While it is still comfortable and slip resistant, the aesthetics are not ideal. I rubbed off what grey was left and now the aesthetic is a uniform black. I have considered re-applying with a solid color grey or similar and not the faux weathered teak. I can not justify at this time the Raptor Deck expense, but would say that it is a superior product. I do think this budget material would work great down below and would have many benefits. The only caveat being that dust and grit obviously will seek the low point in the profile and so you will probably need a dustbuster handy in lieu of the standard dust pan. KD On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:37 PM George Cone via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Bruno, I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this material as a test, planning to remove it and buy the real expensive stuff, because I was concerned how it would hold up under the stress of my dog. An active retriever. I was amazed how good it has worked and in-fact bought some more to finish the job. Take a look on amazon -- CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking Sheet for Boat Yacht Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive Bevel Edge 94.5"x35.4" Thanks, George Cone C 40 From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM To: 'Stus-List' Cc: Bruno Lachance Subject: Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit Hi, The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with really good deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the cockpit sole, benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are made and both companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme the templates and they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious templates, I would like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list that have done the same and could give me a rough estimate. It could be from a C 29 to a let's say 37. I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor deck as antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more comfy. I would prefer this to paint. I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but i want it to look professional if the price is not outrageous. Thank you! Bruno Lachance Bécassin, C 33-2 New-Richmond, Qc Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers
Stus-List Re: Screw removal
I agree with Jeff, likely will be unable to reuse the threaded holes, but I bet the impact driver will remove. I have then drilled, tapped and installed slightly larger machine screw with anti seize. Good luck.Bill Walker -Original Message- From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Jeff Nelson Sent: Thu, Jan 14, 2021 07:50 AM Subject: Stus-List Re: Screw removal If those are stainless steel screws in Aluminum without any protection, they've likely welded/corroded themselves to the aluminum. You will likely only get them out with a drill. You will then have to re-tap the holes, or use a threaded insert to remount your spreader. If you do get them off, when you put new in use a lot of never seize compound or teflon to separate the two materials. You might get lucky if you just drill the heads off the screws to get a vice grip on them for more power. I've never had much luck with them tho. Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag C 30 0549 On 2021-01-14 7:29 a.m., Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote: Hello I am in the process of ordering new spreaders and the supplier asked to send the old bases so the holes can be properly aligned. The spreader bases are attached by screws. I have soaked with penetrating oil this evening and will soak over night. I will bring a torch over tomorrow. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. I would prefer not to have to drill them out. See the attached link https://photos.app.goo.gl/RuDjmDNgWMELrcoR6 Thanks Adam C 36 Pictou NS Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu | | Virus-free. www.avast.com | Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Screw removal
Get an impact drill driver with the right size bit and likely will not have problem.Bill Walker C 36Pentwater, Mi. -Original Message- From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Adam Hayden Sent: Thu, Jan 14, 2021 06:29 AM Subject: Stus-List Screw removal Hello I am in the process of ordering new spreaders and the supplier asked to send the old bases so the holes can be properly aligned. The spreader bases are attached by screws. I have soaked with penetrating oil this evening and will soak over night. I will bring a torch over tomorrow. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. I would prefer not to have to drill them out. See the attached link https://photos.app.goo.gl/RuDjmDNgWMELrcoR6 ThanksAdamC 36Pictou NS Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: C Rendezvous at Maritime Museum in Kingston?
-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List
To: Stus-List
Cc: Stu
Sent: Sat, Jan 9, 2021 11:56 AM
Subject: Stus-List C Rendezvous at Maritime Museum in Kingston?
I would love to know about campground. Gayle and I would come from Michagan
across, assuming late September or October.Bill Walker C 36Pentwater, Mi.
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Rendezvous Reminder
Stu, cant make it sorry...if you need my space for rendezvous cancel me -Original Message- From: Stu To: C Email List Sent: Mon, Dec 7, 2020 12:02 PM Subject: Stus-List Rendezvous Reminder We still have lots of dock space available for our Pre-Christmas Rendezvous. We have quite a few new members to our list, and this is a special invitation for them to join us and meet some of our regulars. When: Dec 9, 2020 07:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada) Register in advance for this meeting:https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZIvdeqppj0uG9FE6N3MYq4kDcVhmmSdvt-V Seasons’ Greetings – stay safeStu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C 43 update
Martin, I am a member of Pentwater Yacht Club. Unfortunately because of high
water and its age the building will likely be replaced in the next year with a
new structure.If you have any old pictures or such from ymthat era qmi would be
interested. I sail my 36 out of Pentwater.Bill Walker
-Original Message-
From: Martin DeYoung
To: Stus-List
Sent: Sun, Dec 6, 2020 02:46 PM
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C 43 update
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Neil,
I may be interested and would be happy to pay shipping. I suggest we wait a
few days to be sure no other cnc-lister with a +-35 foot boat is interested in
playing with such a fun sail.
I noticed Whitehall Michigan is not that far from Pentwater and Grand Haven.
My father’s family was in the commercial fishing and cargo schooner business
for generations out of that area. In Pentwater the DeYoung family home/net
shed became the Pentwater Yacht Club house when my grandfather sold the boat
and moved to Florida.
Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle/Port Ludlow
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: schiller
Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2020 3:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C 43 update
Martin,
I may still have a Blooper from our Redwing 35 out in the barn. I'm not sure
that it is appropriate but it could be yours for shipping. There is also a
reacher, a staysail and a banana staysail out there. Our Redwing 35 (Red
Pepper) was purchased to compete in the Chi-Mac.
Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
(Previous: 1970 Redwing 35, #007)
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
On 12/5/2020 5:07 PM, Martin DeYoung wrote:
Alan,
I need to amend my previous statement regarding acquiring sails and racing. I,
out of an abundance of nostalgia, feel the need to equip Calypso with a blooper
and fly it during some downwind club race. None of Calypso’s bloopers from the
70’s made it to Seattle so I will start keeping my eye out (maybe some dumpster
diving) for a suitable ¾ oz blooper.
I expect it will be exciting to acquaint Calypso’s co-owner and crew with the
nuances of setting, trimming, and driving under a spin/blooper combo. I have
many hours/miles driving with bloopers from my Transpacs in the 70’s and early
80’s but it has been +-30 years since I last used one. I believe any witnesses
to our first attempts will be thoroughly entertained.
If I was able to pull this off, the 3 second a mile PHRF rating hit would be
worth the fun of flashing the fleet with a blooper. Calypso rarely sails to
its PHRF rating of 93, especially with its old sails, cruising bottom paint,
and casual crew. The last time we corrected out to the podium was in a race
where half the course was upwind/up current in 25 to 30 TWS. Calypso reveled
in the conditions while all those pesky “J” boats suffered from lack of
railmeat and slid off to leeward.
So we may yet enter a race with a downwind leg long enough for a duffer crew to
hoist and fly a blooper.
Martin DeYoung
Calypso
C 43
Seattle/Port Ludlow
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: ALAN BERGEN
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2020 7:26 PM
To: Stus-List
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C 43 update
Hi Martin:
Glad to hear Calypso is coming alive again. Will you continue to race, or have
you retired from racing also? Are you still partnered with what's his name?
I've been racing in a summer series every Sunday, and that will continue till
March. I'll give you a call, the next time I'm cruising in your area.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 6:06 PM Martin DeYoung
wrote:
Calypso’s 5+ year restoration continues, and may be picking up pace. I got
distracted from the rebuild by selling a business, retiring, moving to Port
Ludlow (near Port Townsend WA) and of course, the Covid-19 pandemic. A recap:
Calypso, a C design “Limited Edition” built by Bruckmann’s in late 1970,
launched as Arieto in January 1971, hull #1 of +-15 hulls sold. After a
successful racing career out of Boston it was sold to the Great Lakes as first
Phantom then Esta Es and raced in many Chi-Mac races. We purchased her in late
1998 and trucked her out west to Seattle.
>From 1999 to 2015 we raced and
Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C 43 update
I have a blooper. Prior owner said he always gained half a knot when he put
it up and half a knot when he dropped it..Bill Walker Evening Star1981 CnC 36
-Original Message-
From: schiller
To: cnc-list
Sent: Sat, Dec 5, 2020 06:57 PM
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C 43 update
Martin,
I may still have a Blooper from our Redwing 35 out in the barn. I'm not sure
that it is appropriate but it could be yours for shipping. There is also a
reacher, a staysail and a banana staysail out there. Our Redwing 35 (Red
Pepper) was purchased to compete in the Chi-Mac.
Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
(Previous: 1970 Redwing 35, #007)
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
On 12/5/2020 5:07 PM, Martin DeYoung wrote:
#yiv3937352346 #yiv3937352346 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv3937352346
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Alan,
I need to amend my previous statement regarding acquiring sails and racing. I,
out of an abundance of nostalgia, feel the need to equip Calypso with a blooper
and fly it during some downwind club race. None of Calypso’s bloopers from the
70’s made it to Seattle so I will start keeping my eye out (maybe some dumpster
diving) for a suitable ¾ oz blooper.
I expect it will be exciting to acquaint Calypso’s co-owner and crew with the
nuances of setting, trimming, and driving under a spin/blooper combo. I have
many hours/miles driving with bloopers from my Transpacs in the 70’s and early
80’s but it has been +-30 years since I last used one. I believe any witnesses
to our first attempts will be thoroughly entertained.
If I was able to pull this off, the 3 second a mile PHRF rating hit would be
worth the fun of flashing the fleet with a blooper. Calypso rarely sails to
its PHRF rating of 93, especially with its old sails, cruising bottom paint,
and casual crew. The last time we corrected out to the podium was in a race
where half the course was upwind/up current in 25 to 30 TWS. Calypso reveled
in the conditions while all those pesky “J” boats suffered from lack of
railmeat and slid off to leeward.
So we may yet enter a race with a downwind leg long enough for a duffer crew to
hoist and fly a blooper.
Martin DeYoung
Calypso
C 43
Seattle/Port Ludlow
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: ALAN BERGEN
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2020 7:26 PM
To: Stus-List
Subject: Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C 43 update
Hi Martin:
Glad to hear Calypso is coming alive again. Will you continue to race, or have
you retired from racing also? Are you still partnered with what's his name?
I've been racing in a summer series every Sunday, and that will continue till
March. I'll give you a call, the next time I'm cruising in your area.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 6:06 PM Martin DeYoung
wrote:
Calypso’s 5+ year restoration continues, and may be picking up pace. I got
distracted from the rebuild by selling a business, retiring, moving to Port
Ludlow (near Port Townsend WA) and of course, the Covid-19 pandemic. A recap:
Calypso, a C design “Limited Edition” built by Bruckmann’s in late 1970,
launched as Arieto in January 1971, hull #1 of +-15 hulls sold. After a
successful racing career out of Boston it was sold to the Great Lakes as first
Phantom then Esta Es and raced in many Chi-Mac races. We purchased her in late
1998 and trucked her out west to Seattle.
>From 1999 to 2015 we raced and cruised Calypso around the PNW including a 2015
>summer trip around Vancouver Island. At the end of that summer it was clear
>the 44 years of hard miles and exposure had taken its toll. There was rotted
>balsa core in +-20 sq ft of deck, multiple bulkheads with rotted plywood near
>the hull, 300 old fastener holes that needed epoxy filling, tired deck,
>topsides, and interior paint, and many more old boat issues.
Today, most of the major repairs are complete, some needed structural upgrades
added (used the original C drawings to guide us), and she is almost ready for
the paint shed planned for this spring or early summer. We will move Calypso
from its Shilshole Bay Marina slip to the Port Ludlow marina as soon as a slip
is available. I can see the marina from my house and drive there in 5 minutes,
6 if there’s traffic so the pace of project completion will pick up
considerably.
Aprox. 5 years ago I switched to following the cnc-list via the digest. The
recent list software
Re: Stus-List garboard drain install for a 30-1
Nate, I did this last fall. Best thing I have ever done for the boat. I used rare earth magnets as you suggest. Taped one inside bilge where I wanted drain and other magnet "pops" into place on outside. I drew a circle around the outside magnet and drilled from the outside. Make sure wherever you locate the drain that it has clearance to install the plug from inside if like mine. I sealed the edge of hole with epoxy before installing the thru hole. I used all bronze Perko. More expensive. Some of the cheaper ones have brass plugs, not bronze, with bronze thru hull. For winter, I hung a length of cotton clothes line with a nail stuck through it in the middle to keep from falling out the hole to wick the last bit of water out of bilge. Worked great. Good luck. -Original Message- From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Nate Flesness Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2020 12:18 PM Subject: Stus-List garboard drain install for a 30-1 I plan to install a garboard drain in my 1980 30-1 for this winter. Port leaks and only a partial cover meant significant water/ice in the bilge last winter, which did some damage. Any comments or suggestions? My default is to use rare earth magnets to line up bilge position and outside, drill from inside, install bronze seadog drain with epoxy and screws. Thanks Nate Flesness"Sarah Jean"Hudson, WI___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Diesel to Electric conversion
https://goodoldboat.com/mail-buoy-august-2020/ Good old boat article this monthBill Walker CnC 36Pentwater, Mi.On the hard___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?
I was thinking it was insanity to repower with electric until Rob Ball
posted...obviously much respect for him.Still, I think if you have diesel
smell, overheating, excessive vibration, etc., it is a maintenance issue. I
have none of that.Of course any combustion engine will have some vibration.
But excessive vibration is a signal that something else is going on...motor
mounts, shaft alignment, shaft issues, cutlass bearing, transmission,
prop...something is misaligned. I could not trade the ability to travel for
hours under power if necessary for safety (or to outrun the black flies)to
eliminate some vibration. And those who know me know I sail if at all
possible.I would make repairs.Remember, advice is free and you get what you pay
for.Bill Walker 1981 CnC 36Pentwater, Mi. 49449
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Bow anchor roller
Anyone installed bow anchor roller on a C? Photo? Offline to me at wwadjour...@gmail.com.bill Walker Evening StarC 36Pentwater, Mi.___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List New-guy C 40 Shopping questions
You might not say it out loud, but you do have a favorite...boat that is..Bill
Walker C 36Pentwater, Michigan
-Original Message-
From: Rob Ball via CnC-List
To: Richard Bush ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rob Ball
Sent: Wed, Jul 22, 2020 02:53 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List New-guy C 40 Shopping questions
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That’s like asking you which of your children do you like best . . . . .
Rob Ball C 34
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range
Ok, I have resisted, but I am 72, 10 year owner of 81 CnC 36Bill WalkerPentwater, Mi.___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screw
Impact will get it...no worries.
On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 Robert Abbott via CnC-List
wrote:
Mike,
I have been applying the both the PB Blaster and 50% ATF - 50% Acetone
solution on the stanchion and screw for the past month.time is not going to
loosen it.
I need an 'impact screw driver'.
And Mike, if you put your launch order in, it will be in the water today.
Rob
On 6/2/2020 9:47 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
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How long did you leave the PB Blaster before trying? A mechanic once told me
that when changing hub assemblies they put vehicle on hoist and spray the areas
last thing before going home for the night and then work on it the next
morning. Having replaced right and left front wheel hubs on my former
Silverado using that method on one side and not waiting many hours on the other
I can attest to this trick being helpful.
PS. Rob … I put in the launch order. Am almost exactly 2 months behind
schedule this year
Mike
___
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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Garboard Plug
I drilled for garboard drain last fall. I will install perko drain in spring. I used 2 earth magnets to locate where to drill...one low inside bilge taped where I wanted the drain, then just moved the other on outside of keel stub until it "located" it's mate and voila, knew exactly where to drill my pilot and hole. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi On Friday, January 10, 2020 Len Mitchell via CnC-List wrote: The way I have to look at it is based on being on the hard from October to May. If I was in the water like Josh 11/12 months or Bob 12/12, I wouldn’t even look at it. It wouldn’t make sense to me either and simply is not required. If you have ever checked on your boat and found water just under the floor boards or quite possibly just over the floor boards frozen solid you would understand why I have no problem properly installing one. It’s just peace of mind. I think this hull penetration is much less a risk than the others. Just count for yourself how many hull penetrations you have when you include instruments, stuffing box and traditional thru hulls. I believe stock I have 9 “holes” and the garboard plug is 10. It’s really a different mindset based on a northern climate. Anyway glad I finally did it after 20 years so we can travel where it’s warm without worry, that was the point of my original post lol. Len Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Racing
Can't the race committee protest OBSERVED violation under RSS 60.2? Bill Walker On Sunday, December 22, 2019 detroito91 via CnC-List wrote: Race Committee cannot protest if they see something wrong. Only observe.Jim Schwartz SEA YA !38 Landfall Washington nc Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original message From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" Date: 12/22/19 4:00 PM (GMT-05:00) To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" Subject: Re: Stus-List Racing I believe the committee boat could have protested. In any event the protestee should have done turns or retired once the protestor announced protest regardless if it was a flag or a hat Mike Persistence Halifax, ns From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via CnC-List Sent: December 22, 2019 3:06 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Shawn Wright Subject: Re: Stus-List Racing Very true about the protest flag. Recently our crew was the Race Committee boat for club racing, and we witnessed a pretty severe rule violation at the start line, but the violated boat didn't have a protest flag, and tried to use a hat on the back stay instead. They knew it wouldn't be allowed so didn't file a protest (although I think the offending boat may have later taken a penalty turn as a precaution). I was surprised since these are all very experienced sailors, but I suppose it was just a Sunday club race. Presumably they would be better prepared in a more serious race, but maybe not. There are a few skippers who are very aware of the rules, and also a bit aggressive, and use this to their advantage to intimidate other boats, knowing that many will back down even if they don't have to. -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35 https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 3:06 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote: Racing sailboats inevitably leads to collisions between boats and lots of close calls. Collisions are not fun. Protest hearings are not fun and often not done for non- collision encounters where rules may have been violated therefore. Sailboat racing has a huge volume of rules which very few sailors know and know how to apply in close quarter encounters. Without protests and protest hearings racing can be a farce. But in my experience protests and hearings were scarce and some boats do not even carry a protest flag or if they do the crew does not know where to find it when it could reasonably be used. On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 10:21 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote: RacingI don't do it anymore. But when I raced, I raced mostly with a core of 5 good friends, one my brother. I learned a lot over many years, on different boats, doing different jobs, full crew and short crew days, in all kinds of conditions. Over the years racing, I have spent some time on the foredeck... no one else wanted do it. Some days I thought that was a good thing, some days it was not so greata sail change down in a heavy building breeze bouncing around up front in the spray...yea, this is fun. Now doing a spinnaker peel right felt really good.especially in the middle of the fleet where everyone gets to see it done, and done smoothly. Head sails changes are done regularly but changing a spinnaker under sail could only be done smoothly if you had practiced it. We had some good races and we had some bad races. And we spent time practicing. We practiced to the point where, for example, where I could put my hand on a halyard and the pit man knew exactly what halyard and what to do with it without me shouting me back a command. After a race, the beers were open for the passage home. After the boat was docked. sails packed, etc. the first half hour was spent talking about the racewhat did we do wrong, what went right. After that we normally got juvenile. In 1995, I wanted something different from racingbought a Kirby 25 that we raced against as our main boat for boat competitor, the J24 fleet with 4 of the 5 original amigosme and 3 of the amigos left my friend's C 34R to race the K25...racing is totally different when you are on the helm and not on the foredeck when you get to a mark and there are 15 other boats there compared to normal handicap racing where twenty minutes after the start the fleet spreads out. No matter how you choose to race, it helps a lot if the crew can size up the competition, decide where they expect to place in their respective fleetbottom 3rd, middle 3rd, or top 3rd. If you can get the crew to talk about this and agree, saves a lot of different expectations among crew. Racing is 50% boat, 50% crew and 50% luck on any given day. I have had the good fortune to have benefited from all three, and in a few races, all three! Robert Abbott AZURA C 32 #277 Halifax, N.S. ___ Thanks everyone for
Re: Stus-List Mechanical shaft seal options
Josh, I don't have my PSS manual here in Ohio, but basically it is a two part ring that clamps around the shaft and carries two o rings inside. It also acts to prevent shaft from going out the back of the boat if the shaft coupler let's go. I have never actually used the replacement o rings, but did re install it several years ago when replaced my shaft and coupler. Bill On Wednesday, December 11, 2019 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Bill, I'm curious how that works having a spare seal? As far as I can tell, the primary failure mechanism for the PYI is the bellows. It's hard to keep a spare of one of those. The Lasdrop Gen 2 has a semi rigid hose instead of a bellows and terminates with a SS plate which stays stationary. The carbon ring is mounted to the shaft in a manner which does not damage the shaft. This leaves the carbon ring as the rotating piece. In the gen 2 the rotating part attached to the shaft is also a spring pack which is how compression is maintained. Since it is a spring it is also less prone to relaxing over time such as a typical bellows system. Josh On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 2:21 PM WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote: Josh, The PYI seal also is capable of storing a spare seal on the shaft in front of the seal. I have one. Bill Walker C & C 36 Evening Star Pentwater, Michigan On Wednesday, December 11, 2019 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Yep vented. The PYI and Lasdrop seals rated the highest in a practical sailor review. The lasdrop gen 2 has the ability to store a spare seal on the shaft and the rated service life is 8 to 10 years. I'm leaning towards the Lasdrop Gen 2 for my installation though I'm tempted to keep the PYI. The new bellows kit is 1/3 of the price of the new lasdrop seal. https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/26_22/features/4431-1.html I'm also considering a new auto prop instead of paying to get my max-prop rebuilt. Josh On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 10:56 AM Ken Heaton wrote: Is yours vented? The vent was added some years ago. With it you never need to burp the seal. We don't have the vent so occasionally we do have to burp it. If I ever replace it I will put the same dripless, but with the vent. Ken H. On Tue, 10 Dec 2019 at 13:48, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Alright folks, I'm looking for thoughts on a replacement for my PYI dripless shaft seal. It has worked fine and I'm not afraid to stick with it but I'm looking for possible options or improvements. I've heard of Tides Marine making one and Sailor Sam's sells 4 different designs by the name Last Drop. I'll be pulling and truing the shaft, rebuilding the prop, replacing the cutlass bearing, replacing the seal. Anything else I'm forgetting while I have it apart? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Mechanical shaft seal options
Josh, The PYI seal also is capable of storing a spare seal on the shaft in front of the seal. I have one. Bill Walker C & C 36 Evening Star Pentwater, Michigan On Wednesday, December 11, 2019 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Yep vented. The PYI and Lasdrop seals rated the highest in a practical sailor review. The lasdrop gen 2 has the ability to store a spare seal on the shaft and the rated service life is 8 to 10 years. I'm leaning towards the Lasdrop Gen 2 for my installation though I'm tempted to keep the PYI. The new bellows kit is 1/3 of the price of the new lasdrop seal. https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/26_22/features/4431-1.html I'm also considering a new auto prop instead of paying to get my max-prop rebuilt. Josh On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 10:56 AM Ken Heaton wrote: Is yours vented? The vent was added some years ago. With it you never need to burp the seal. We don't have the vent so occasionally we do have to burp it. If I ever replace it I will put the same dripless, but with the vent. Ken H. On Tue, 10 Dec 2019 at 13:48, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Alright folks, I'm looking for thoughts on a replacement for my PYI dripless shaft seal. It has worked fine and I'm not afraid to stick with it but I'm looking for possible options or improvements. I've heard of Tides Marine making one and Sailor Sam's sells 4 different designs by the name Last Drop. I'll be pulling and truing the shaft, rebuilding the prop, replacing the cutlass bearing, replacing the seal. Anything else I'm forgetting while I have it apart? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing
John,
SORRY,now I understand, water leaking down into your bilge through the
rudder post fitting..
Duh.
On Saturday, November 16, 2019 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
wrote:
#yiv8902571033 #yiv8902571033 -- _filtered #yiv8902571033 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4
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Thanks Bill – grease is not the issue – everything functions just fine and yes
have a hydraulic hose going to the grease fitting – issue is water / rain
leaking in
John
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM
WALKER via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing
When was last time you put grease in the cup on the shaft log? If you don't
have play in the rudder shaft, this may be your problem. I am sure you know
there is a grease cup on the shaft log where it comes through thhe hull. Use
Green Grease, a waterproof grease. Fill the cup, tighten to force grease into
shaft, turn wheel back and forth, repeat until you see new grease being forced
out the top of rudder shaft log. Good two person job as crawling in and out of
that area of bilge can be tough.
Hope this helps.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan
On Saturday, November 16, 2019 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
wrote:
Our rudder shaft leaks where it passes through the cockpit floor. There is no
play in the rudder, doughnut nut is snug and everything functions normally. Am
suspecting the delrin (?) thrust washer / bearing under the doughnut nut is
degraded after almost 30 years. Not sure if is a thrust bearing with flange or
just a washer. Before I start disassembling any thoughts from the group?
Also, any suggestions on where to obtain a replacement?
TIA
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
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Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing
When was last time you put grease in the cup on the shaft log? If you don't have play in the rudder shaft, this may be your problem. I am sure you know there is a grease cup on the shaft log where it comes through thhe hull. Use Green Grease, a waterproof grease. Fill the cup, tighten to force grease into shaft, turn wheel back and forth, repeat until you see new grease being forced out the top of rudder shaft log. Good two person job as crawling in and out of that area of bilge can be tough. Hope this helps. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Michigan On Saturday, November 16, 2019 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List wrote: Our rudder shaft leaks where it passes through the cockpit floor. There is no play in the rudder, doughnut nut is snug and everything functions normally. Am suspecting the delrin (?) thrust washer / bearing under the doughnut nut is degraded after almost 30 years. Not sure if is a thrust bearing with flange or just a washer. Before I start disassembling any thoughts from the group? Also, any suggestions on where to obtain a replacement? TIA John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 C 34 Noank, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers
Hari, Sail numbers can be selected by owner, assigned by the manufacturer, boat class, or sailing organizations. If you plan to join US Sailing and sail in US or offshore coastal then US Sailing will assign you a number, if you wish. If you are racing in a class, the class association will usually require a class assigned number. Hope this helps.Bill WalkerC, Mi -Original Message- From: Joseph Bognar via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Joseph Bognar Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2019 2:50 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigging information. The hull number will be on the transom . I usually put one larger spacer front and rear the two on each side around my mast . Sent from Joe Bognar > On Sep 25, 2019, at 7:41 PM, HV via CnC-List wrote: > > Hi all, > > Recently purchased a 1979 C 30 MK1, I have sent a payment to get the owners > manual but I am unsure if it has rigging information. > > So I am wondering if anyone would be willing to share some images of how > their Cunningham/Downhaul may be rigged... > > Additionally, for some reason the waste tank behind the bulkhead in the head > has been abandoned, does anyone have any information on how this was setup? > > I am really liking this boat (I have owned many), she is in very good > condition and just needs some TLC, oh I am also interested in adding a bow > anchor roller, has anyone done this to their 30Mk1? > > Does anyone know how many blocks should be used as mast spacers and their > placement? mine only has 5 and are installed randomly... > > Lastly, how do I know the hull # for placing on my new Mainsail? > > > Thank in advance for any help, pictures and advice... > > > Fair Winds and Following Seas. > > Hari > > S/V Thalassa > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Bow anchor roller
Thanks Neil...i will check it out. On Tuesday, September 17, 2019 schiller via CnC-List wrote: Bill, There are a couple of lot queen 34's down here at Crosswinds. At least one of them has a an anchor roller. If you get down that way, they are parked at the far edge of the lot by the Whitehall Landing driveway. The stem fitting looks like the 36 (I looked at them thinking about Glenn Gambell's 36). We were hauled yesterday. We are parked right across from the office door. Neil Schiller C 35-3, #028, "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC On 9/17/2019 5:11 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote: Anyone with a CnC 36 installed an anchor roller? Send photos please.. At 71 decided it's time.. Bill Walker Pentwater, Mi. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Bow anchor roller
Anyone with a CnC 36 installed an anchor roller? Send photos please.. At 71 decided it's time.. Bill Walker Pentwater, Mi. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List anchor windlass
Would love some pictures of install of eindlass on a 36-1. Bill Walker Pentwater, Mi. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck
Thanks Neil, have a harbor freight in Ludibgton
On Thursday, August 15, 2019 schiller via CnC-List
wrote:
Bill,
Harbor Freight is your friend. Stop by the Muskegon HF and pick up a $5 set
of picks. You should be able to get one of the angled picks into the pin hole.
I have a set on the boat if you want to come down to Whitehall this weekend.
Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
On 8/15/2019 8:40 AM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote:
Same problem here...
Bill Walker
CnC 36
On Wednesday, August 14, 2019 Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
wrote:
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{color:#A8A8AC !important;background-color:#292929 !important;} Hello all,
One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin
holding the jib car in place on the track. Unfortunately, he forgot to move
the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into the hole
once the ring was off. The top of the pin is now flush with the top of the
car. Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at some point I
would like to be able to move it again. Anybody dealt with this situation
before? This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were standard
on these boats. Thanks for any suggestions!
Jim Reinardy C 30-2 “Firewater” Milwaukee, WI
Get Outlook for iOS___
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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
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___
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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___
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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___
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Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck
Tom, can you be more descriptive? Blade between track and bottom of car? Bill Walker On Thursday, August 15, 2019 sancton.tom via CnC-List wrote: Had the same thing happen to me this week. Took the edge of a knife and pried up the pin enough to move it out of the hole and then inserted the pin back through the hole. Took maybe 5 minutes Good luck Tom SanctonM/S MORNING LIGHTDYC Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Date: 2019-08-15 12:11 AM (GMT-04:00) To: C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck The car is most likely not special and easily replaced. If push comes to shove an angle grinder will make short work of the car and allow for removal. Short of destroying the car I would attempt to slip a thin dental pick down the slot between the pin and the car. Try to catch the hole in the pin for the ring. Maybe, maybe not. If it is a tight interface then probably not. You could also try drilling and tapping the pin so that you can put a small machine screw in it and then use pliers to pull the pin out. I imagine that the pin may try to spin as the drill bit or tap begins to bite. To help prevent this attach a line to the car so as to side load it and put pressure on the pin against the track hole. Good luck, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:32 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List wrote: Hello all, One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin holding the jib car in place on the track. Unfortunately, he forgot to move the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into the hole once the ring was off. The top of the pin is now flush with the top of the car. Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at some point I would like to be able to move it again. Anybody dealt with this situation before? This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were standard on these boats. Thanks for any suggestions! Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI Get Outlook for iOS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck
Same problem here...
Bill Walker
CnC 36
On Wednesday, August 14, 2019 Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
wrote:
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{color:#A8A8AC !important;background-color:#292929 !important;} Hello all,
One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin
holding the jib car in place on the track. Unfortunately, he forgot to move
the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into the hole
once the ring was off. The top of the pin is now flush with the top of the
car. Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at some point I
would like to be able to move it again. Anybody dealt with this situation
before? This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were standard
on these boats. Thanks for any suggestions!
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI
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Re: Stus-List CnC logo
I saw that they went into receivership in 2017 and no buyers at sale. Don't know if accurate..source Wikipedia. A company wouldnt make me a doormat with logo and name of my boat without some paperwork.. Bill Walker CnC 36 On Monday, August 5, 2019 Stu via CnC-List wrote: Bill and others – I do not know who the current owner of the logo is. From what I learned in the past – you can use the logo for personal use – just don’t make 100 copies and try to sell them on Flea-bay. Stup.s. – does anybody know if C Yachts exists these days?___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List CnC logo
I copied the CnC logo off the web someplace...Is there a current owner of these copyrights that need permission from to use on an item not for sale, but for personal use? Bill Walker CnC 36 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Motorsailing
Only issue I have encountered is that oil pickup may get above oil level if heeled significantly...causing oil pressure alarm to go off...happened once to me on port tack even though oil level good...yanmar 3GM30... Bill Walker CnC 36 On Wednesday, July 31, 2019 Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: Motor sailing as you described should not present any issues. From: David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2019 9:37 AMTo: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Stus-List Motorsailing We just got back from a long cruise (long for us- 5 days) where the wind tended to be against us every day. We ended up motor sailing some of the time fairly close hauled with winds varying 5-10 knots. We were pressed for time and wanted to keep our speed up and direction to our destination so that ended up with some pinched sailing a bit too close to the wind, but better than either motor alone or sail alone. Periodically, (especially as the wind increased) the engine/hull would start intensly vibrating and if I adjusted engine rpm, I could usually get it to stop. I am presuming that I was getting resonances in the engine/prop due to the sails and prop trying to drive the boat simultaneously and not always in sync. Obviously strong vibrations are not a good thing, but my question is whether motorsailing like this is a bad idea altogether due strain on transmission/engine. Thanks- Dave S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Mugs
If you want a cnc logo mug, download the logo to your device, go to Vistaprint or another online mfg and order one. 10.49 on vistaprintand no, I don't have permission to use logo, but not selling them either. Need sale code SALE40. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Tuff-Coat
Tom, I did my cockpit sole with Kiwi Grip 5 years ago and it still looks great. Kiwi Grip is tintable by Home Depot or any paint store just like a quart of water based paint. I got a bunch of color chips and it matches very very well. As to texture, I think those that have trouble matching the factory with this product put it on too thick. I am very pleased. Took less than a quart on my 36. Bill Walker Pentwater, Mi. On Wednesday, July 10, 2019 T Smyth via CnC-List wrote: Has anyone used Tuff-Coat for repainting an older deck/cockpit?https://tuffcoat.net/technical-info/This has been recommended to me by my boat detailer/cleaner. He claims to have used it successfully on another sailboat (which is now in a distant location). Thanks. TomC 30 1974 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Adding cover to line
Thanks all, as always, good advice. Bill Walker On Tuesday, June 25, 2019 Michael Brannon via CnC-List wrote: Bill, if none of the Chuck’s items apply, I’d milk in additional core to bulk up the line rather than add cover. I did that on my boat and it helps. I’m using 3/8” endura braid for my halyards and have spin lock rope clutches. Also some of the less expensive rope clutches do not hold as well as the more expensive of the same brand. Mikel BrannonVirginia Lee 93295C 36 CBVirginia Beach, VA On Jun 25, 2019, at 5:24 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: Before you bulk up your Halyards or change to a rope with a more aggressive cover, it would be good to know if the high tech but slippery halyard line is:A. New to the boat?B. If yes to the above, is it properly sized for the clutch?C. If old, is there visible wear on the cover or signs of non-recoverable compression where the clutch holds the rope? Try end for ending the halyard to move the wear area to a different spot. If wear seems excessive, replace the halyard before it comes apart under load.D. Are the clutch teeth worn? Depending on the brand of clutch, rebuild kits can be sourced. If nothing else has changed on the boat and the halyard has just started slipping, this is the usual culprit. Chuck Gilchrest S/V HalfMagic1983 35 LFPadanaram, MA Sent from my iPhone On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:24 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote: I have hi tech low stretch but slippery halyard which my clutches just won't hold. Thinking of adding another cover at the point where they pass through clutch. Any thoughts or solutions beyond replacing clutches or halyards. now I take to a cleat, but cumbersome as I have both on same side with a single winch and when remove from winch get a little slip before can cleat off.. Bill Walker CnC 36 Evening Star Pentwater, Mi. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Adding cover to line
I have hi tech low stretch but slippery halyard which my clutches just won't hold. Thinking of adding another cover at the point where they pass through clutch. Any thoughts or solutions beyond replacing clutches or halyards. now I take to a cleat, but cumbersome as I have both on same side with a single winch and when remove from winch get a little slip before can cleat off.. Bill Walker CnC 36 Evening Star Pentwater, Mi. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
I have had Garhauer on several boats with no problems. Bill Walker CnC 36 On Tuesday, June 25, 2019 Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Listers, My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a replacement. Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40’ range that won’t break the bank? All the best, Edd Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower (Matt Janssen)
Listen to Frwd...he is knowledgeable, unbiased and I trust him...i don't trust easily.. Bill Walker CnC 36 On Monday, June 24, 2019 Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote: Alfred at Schooner rebuilds/remans tons of diesel engines per year; he markets his service es through www.dieselenginetrader.com. He’s probably worked on more Yanmar diesels in his life than any of us could ever even guess. His son, Walkie, is the acknowledged diesel maintenance guy for all of western Lake Superior. A friend just repowered from an old Volvo to an Alfred-reman’ed Yanmar 3HM; and aside from having to do all the related wiring and plumbing himself, he’s very happy with the result. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI (also at Port Superior…) On Jun 24, 2019, at 11:35 AM, Dirk Niles via CnC-List wrote: I had never heard of Schooner Bay Marina and it turns out they are less than 10 miles from my marina on Lake Superior. I'll reach out to some locals for any background. Google comments referenced a concern about a core refund. Dirk Niles C 34 "Great Joy" Port Superior, WI -- Forwarded message -- From: Matt Janssen To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bcc: Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2019 11:56:31 -0400 Subject: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let go. What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay accommodations, i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save some of the season. Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing one. The only one i've been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina Wisconsin; full rebuild with 1-year warranty. For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way? Does anyone have any experience with Schooner Bay Marina? best,matt --Matthew JanssenC 27 MkV EduamSouth Amboy, NJ ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Nonskid: Epoxy paint w/ 404 filler and a Kiwi Grip roller?
Andrew,
I have had Kiwi Grip tinted at Home Depot. Get a paint chip from then that
matches color you want and they will do it...i did cockpit sole and got a good
match of color and texture. Dennis' comments are all good too.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
On Tuesday, June 4, 2019 Andrew Means via CnC-List
wrote:
#yiv4927044711 body{font-family:Helvetica, Arial;font-size:13px;}Hi all -
I’m in the last stages of refurbishing the fiberglass piece that covers the
sliding companionway hatch on my C It had such extensive crazing on it
that I ended up sanding the whole thing down, including all the non-skid. I’ve
got new Interlux Perfection (Hatteras off-white) paint on it now, and it’s
ready for nonskid. I want to roughly match the nonskid style on the rest of the
deck, which is the Kiwi-grip style, but Kiwi Grip only comes in a limited
number of colors.
One solution I thought of would be to put 404 thickener in the paint and use a
Kiwi Grip roller. Anybody done anything like this before? This is a low-traffic
area, but there should be something there. Thoughts?
Andrew
--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk ISeattle,
WA___
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Stus-List Jam cleats
Anyone have source for some aluminum jam cleats like on early 80s cnc? Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painting strategy for deck Interlux vs Petit
Mike, I have done my cockpit sole with kiwi grip..it is easy to reduce the peaks and valleys that great non skid by pressure used on the roller...i used the roller provided by kiwi grip and it worked out great...practice on a piece of plywood if you are concerned. BTW, kiwi can be tinted by local home depot or lowes...i got paint chips, matched and they did it for free. Bill Walker CnC 36 Bill Walker On Friday, May 3, 2019 Headgorilla via CnC-List wrote: *The PO of my boat had 2 thick coats of Interdeck (interlux) poured over the entire deck of the boat rail to rail. While it looked uniform and safe to walk on it seemed to be chalky. It seemed as if it was not holding up well in the Sun and was deteriorating faster than anything I had seen. After my second season with my boat I spent the winter stripping it all off as it was leaving chalky streaking down my red hull :( I am in the process of redoing it with Interlux Brightsides White for the gloss and Kiwi-Grip for the non-skid, my one dilemma will be lessening the roughness of the kiwi grip texture which I have read about and seen. I am going to be experimenting with the kiwi grip on a board first with a couple of different methods to see if I can tone down the non skid. I will report back on how that turns out when I do it. Mike DolanSouthold NYSkywalker1979 34' ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
It's probably the lawyer in me, but 1. don't give cash, 2. don't give a post dated check...he needs to show some trust in you, and 3. don't trust him not to peddle your offer. period. a contract is a contract. The deal is with you or there is no deal. sorry, but I have seen a 1000 go bad. Bill Walker CnC 36 Bill Walker On Friday, April 19, 2019 Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote: I have told the seller already that I have $10K in cash (from the last deal that went south) ready to hand him, and the rest by cheque. I will give him a deposit and signed offer tomorrow after the sea trial. Is 10% a typical deposit? I will probably give him a cheque, post-dated to the date of the haulout, which is when we expect to complete, unless he wants cash. He has already stated that he wouldn't tell the other buyer the price, but would just tell him that sorry, he has accepted a written offer. It seems to contradict his earlier comment where he said he'd give the other guy the chance to make an offer, but I think he now has serious doubts about the other guy actually completing. We are prepared to complete as soon as I can be satisfied with an inspection, sea trial, and finally a haulout inspection (which is scheduled for 2 weeks from now). I'm trying hard to remain emotionally neutral (lots of practice at this!) and be prepared to walk if something serious comes up, or adjust the price accordingly, but I don't expect that to happen, aside from the deck issue around the chainplates. This is one area where a proper survey might pay for itself, if the surveyor could place a dollar figure on the repair, but surveyors are booking a month out right now. I will still keep trying though, since I will need one to renew insurance in a year anyway. (the insurance company has already agreed to reinsure for new owner based on 4 year old survey). I guess it's possible that something during the sea trial goes wrong also, but the boat is well equipped and said to sail so well, so this seems unlikely. Fingers crossed! On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 2:47 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: Like they say, money talks and bullshit walks – Eg, whomever has a deposit on the boat is first in line, inanything I have ever dealt with. Bill Coleman C 39 Erie, PA Honestly, I would not let the seller peddle your offer to the otherbuyer. Tell seller if he accepts your offer you expect to hold him toit. If he feels he needs to give other buyer a last shot, he should sayto him, sign a contract or I am moving on to next in line... Bill Walker On Friday, April 19, 2019 Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote: Hi Shawn, The 35 MkII is a fantastic boat (I owned one), but purchasing without a survey is quiterisky. You seem to understand that, so I won't belabor the point. Dennis isright (usually is), the tabbing of the forward bulkhead can be an issue, but isnot particularly difficult or expensive to fix. Mine was broken, but Ifixed it myself and never had any more problems. I would be moreconcerned about the balsa coring in the deck. Without the proper tools(moisture meter), I don't know how you are going to check for that. Youcan tap on the deck with the handle of a screwdriver, listening for the softersound, but without experience, I'm not sure how successful you will be. Do you have access to the mechanical inspection? Replacing the engine ortransmission for whatever reason can be very expensive. Should at leastdo an oil analysis of the engine and transmission as well as a compressioncheck of the engine. Are you experienced enough to evaluate the conditionof the sails. Even if they don't have rips or holes in them, it doesn'tmean they are not all bagged out and useless. A decent main sail mightcost you $3-4K. The reality is there are many things that can go wrongwith a sailboat that seem simple but cost a lot to fix. I'm not trying tobe negative, just realistic. If you get a good 35 Mk II, you will reallyenjoy a wonderful sailing boat. Best of luck, Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 3:49 PMDennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Look at all the bulkhead/hulltabbing in the fore section. Forward of the head and hanging locker. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Apr 19, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote: I'm happy to report that wehave agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial and survey. Unfortunately, thereare no surveyors able to conduct a survey for 3-4 weeks, so we may considerforegoing that and instead do a very thorough inspection of the boat myself,followed by a haulout inspection in a few weeks. The situation is a bit unusual:the seller has done a sea trial with another buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanicalinspection, and has a survey booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made aformal offer (not sure why the seller
Re: Stus-List 35 Mk2 sea trial tomorrow - newbie advice needed
Honestly, I would not let the seller peddle your offer to the other buyer. Tell seller if he accepts your offer you expect to hold him to it. If he feels he needs to give other buyer a last shot, he should say to him, sign a contract or I am moving on to next in line... Bill Walker On Friday, April 19, 2019 Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote: Hi Shawn, The 35 Mk II is a fantastic boat (I owned one), but purchasing without a survey is quite risky. You seem to understand that, so I won't belabor the point. Dennis is right (usually is), the tabbing of the forward bulkhead can be an issue, but is not particularly difficult or expensive to fix. Mine was broken, but I fixed it myself and never had any more problems. I would be more concerned about the balsa coring in the deck. Without the proper tools (moisture meter), I don't know how you are going to check for that. You can tap on the deck with the handle of a screwdriver, listening for the softer sound, but without experience, I'm not sure how successful you will be. Do you have access to the mechanical inspection? Replacing the engine or transmission for whatever reason can be very expensive. Should at least do an oil analysis of the engine and transmission as well as a compression check of the engine. Are you experienced enough to evaluate the condition of the sails. Even if they don't have rips or holes in them, it doesn't mean they are not all bagged out and useless. A decent main sail might cost you $3-4K. The reality is there are many things that can go wrong with a sailboat that seem simple but cost a lot to fix. I'm not trying to be negative, just realistic. If you get a good 35 Mk II, you will really enjoy a wonderful sailing boat. Best of luck,GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 3:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Look at all the bulkhead/hull tabbing in the fore section. Forward of the head and hanging locker. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Apr 19, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote: I'm happy to report that we have agreed on a price, subject to a sea trial and survey. Unfortunately, there are no surveyors able to conduct a survey for 3-4 weeks, so we may consider foregoing that and instead do a very thorough inspection of the boat myself, followed by a haulout inspection in a few weeks. The situation is a bit unusual: the seller has done a sea trial with another buyer, and the buyer paid for a mechanical inspection, and has a survey booked in 2 weeks. But that buyer has not made a formal offer (not sure why the seller didn't insist on this). The buyer has been "waffling", and the seller doesn't seem confident he will complete, so he is inclined to accept an offer from us subject to a final haulout inspection by myself, and then tell the other party he has an accepted offer. It's still possible the other party will counter with a higher offer. We will not go any higher, and I'm already a bit uncomfortable foregoing a survey, since we'll need one a year from now to renew the insurance (we can use a 4 year old survey for another year). That old survey showed no issues at all with the boat, including electrical and propane, two areas that are usually a problem. As I said, a very unusual situation, but I think the seller is a solid guy, although I do question his selling practices - I wouldn't have gone this far without an offer from the other guy, and I wouldn't squeeze the other guy out, since I know what that feels like... it's already happened to us once. Anyway, looking forward to the sea trial tomorrow. This will be the chance to see/hear the engine run, and get comfortable with the sails and rigging. Appreciate any tips for things to watch for. And I'm fully expecting a few people to call me crazy, so don't sugar coat it... I am still prepared to walk away if I get a bad feeling at any time. -- Shawn wrightshawngwri...@gmail.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly
Re: Stus-List Gelcoat color
Dennis has given best advice...go to Fibreglast website, rent the color books, pick the closest or a little darker and let them tint for you... The sun and weather are different everywhere...hoe the finish has been cared fortoo many variables on a 30+ year old finish to just assume it will match. I have used this service and it is only way I think to get close. Bill Walker CnC 36 Bill Walker On Monday, April 8, 2019 Marc Boyd via CnC-List wrote: I'd be really interested in finding out the colour code for my newly acquired '73 33' :-) She is Red. Any help, advice or direction would be greatly appreciated. Regards, marc. On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 4:05 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List wrote: Ken This was addressed a while (years?) back on this list. We also have the smoke white. White base then so many drops of brown, yellow and red as I recall. When I get a moment will see if I can find it in my records John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 C 34 Noank, CT From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2019 8:26 PM To: cnc-list Cc: Ken Heaton Subject: Re: Stus-List Gelcoat color The most common deck colour by far was "Smoke White". There were a few "Neptunus White" and a very few were actually "Pure White or "White". Renting the swatch book as Dennis suggests is a very good idea I'd think. Ken H. On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 19:25, Chuck Borge via CnC-List wrote: Looking for input on original gelcoat color name/number for our venerable C My 41 is what I thought was white (but as my wife can attest, my color vision leave much to be desired) however, as I put a spot of base white on a repair, it is way off. Does anyone know what color I'm trying to match? I get the 35 years of elements taking their toll, but the gelcoat is pretty thick on these boats, and I may sand out some of the patina which will put me closer to the original color. Thanks in advance, Chuck Chuck Borge Tenacious C Somerset, MA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]
I believe this is an April Fool waste of time.. Bill Walker Bill Walker On Monday, April 1, 2019 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: I am more than a little confused here. Who is your insurance carrier? Why would they take some random internet person’s word for a boat’s value over an accredited marine surveyor? It is a bit odd this is even a question, I know what my hull value is already on my policy, it is plainly stated. Joe Coquina From: Bruce Roland [mailto:lostatsea1...@gmail.com] Sent: Monday, April 01, 2019 2:16 PM To: Della Barba, Joe Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL] They will not accept anything from a surveyor so yes it would help. Bruce Roland On Mon, Apr 1, 2019, 1:07 PM Della Barba, Joe mailto:lostatsea1...@gmail.com] Sent: Monday, April 01, 2019 1:50 PM To: Della Barba, Joe Subject: [EXTERNAL] The boat has been destroyed, I'm wanting in writing saying to rebuild what cost could vs replacement. Please Bruce Roland ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height
Lake Michigan phrf limits whisker pole to J... Bill Walker Pentwater, No C 36 Bill Walker On Wednesday, March 20, 2019 David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: LP is 21’ on my boat and the pole is 12-18’ so this should be a non-issue. I don’t remember seeing a rule on this in Sailing Instructions but will check. Dave S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT On Mar 20, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Limiting to LP makes more sense. My association's bylaws are moot on whisker poles. However, I sometimes see whisker poles limited to J in sailing instructions for a particular regatta. If you're flying a 155 then the sail won't be fully extended and will flop around. Been there, done that, hate it. For a 35-1, the difference between J and LP (at 155% genoa) is nearly 8 feet (22.5 vs 14,5)! Dennis C. On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 12:48 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List wrote: Not sure about other areas, but in my area (Western LIS) PHRF limits the whisker pole length to LP without time adjustment. If you use a J-length spinnaker pole as a whisker pole in non-spinnaker events, then you get a 3 sec credit. And you do need a band on the whisker pole if it's extendable. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, Y ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C 25 mark 1 1973 slippery non skid
Kiwi can be tinted by any paint shop...home depot, Lowe's, etc...and a few years ago kiwi would give a guarantee...happy or replace. Did my cockpit sole 5 years ago, still looks like original I think...get a handful of color cards and match yours,take kiwi to home depot and you will be happy Bill Walker C 36 Pentwater, Mi.. Bill Walker On Tuesday, March 19, 2019 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: I appreciate your desire to keep the original gel coat but I have had the yard do the ‘standard’ application using gel coat similar to Dennis’ suggestion. A few years later it needed it again and I had them use Kiwi. It is now about 6 years out and it’s still good—plus it’s easy for me to apply when needed to limited areas. Of course my deck is white so the Kiwi white matched well. Don’t know if Kiwi can be tinted but it may be worth a call to them. I doubt any of the mixtures of gelcoat plus x, y or z roughening agents will hold up/last as long as Kiwi. Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Tuesday, March 19, 2019, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: The best answer is to re-new the gelcoat nonskid. Tape the are, mix colloidal silica with the gelcoat and roll it on with a honeycomb roller. https://www.amazon.com/Dynamic-HH010418-Wizard-Finishing-Honeycomb/dp/B00DDNNZEY Barring that, try surfboard wax: https://www.sexwax.com/ Dennis C. On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 6:12 PM alain hogue via CnC-List wrote: I just bought a C 25 mark 1 1973 and my non skid is very slippery when I am working on deck barefoot. Do you have somekind of trick to make it less slippery because I dont want to paint it with Kiwigrip and I want to keep the original gelcoat on it Provenance : Courrier pour Windows 10 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List sail folding machine questionnaire
Good to know Don...as usual, read the SI!.. Bill Bill Walker On Saturday, March 9, 2019 Don Kern via CnC-List wrote: Bill Yup, the Rule 55 does curtail the use of sail stops going into a water. However, some of the venues (OAs) add to the Sailing Inst the following phrase "RRS 55 - A competitor shall not intentionally put trash in the water. This rule applies at all times while afloat. The penalty for a breach of this rule may be less than disqualification. However, discarding elastic or wool bands when setting a sail is permitted." Don Fireball C 35 II . On 3/9/2019 12:32 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote: Don, Isn't the use of rubber bands on spinnakers, or yarn, or anything that goes overboard intentionally during a race, banned by Rule 55 of RRS? That's what I have read and been told. Bill Walker C 36 Pentwater, Mi Bill Walker On Saturday, March 9, 2019 Don Kern via CnC-List wrote: Joe Like Morgan I race my boat, so we fold the genoas after each race, a least once per week, maybe two genoas per race. The mainsail is furled on the boom and covered. The spinnakers are rubber banded and then care fully stuffed into a spinnaker turtle. Don Fireball C 35 II On 3/8/2019 9:24 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote: > This is for my son's engineering class. His team is building a sail > folding machine and this is part of the project. The prototype will > probably be sized for Laser/420 type sails. They need 100 answers to > this before they proceed. > > There is no marketing or spam involved here unless Google is doing it. > It does not ask you for names or emails. > >> https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSepqfvKhPJykXVBQj8ZVRxEJS5gswZAIRJx1mOEbjiWgYcsRw/viewform >> >> > > > Thanks! > > Joe > > Coquina > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List sail folding machine questionnaire
Don, Isn't the use of rubber bands on spinnakers, or yarn, or anything that goes overboard intentionally during a race, banned by Rule 55 of RRS? That's what I have read and been told. Bill Walker C 36 Pentwater, Mi Bill Walker On Saturday, March 9, 2019 Don Kern via CnC-List wrote: Joe Like Morgan I race my boat, so we fold the genoas after each race, a least once per week, maybe two genoas per race. The mainsail is furled on the boom and covered. The spinnakers are rubber banded and then care fully stuffed into a spinnaker turtle. Don Fireball C 35 II On 3/8/2019 9:24 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote: > This is for my son's engineering class. His team is building a sail > folding machine and this is part of the project. The prototype will > probably be sized for Laser/420 type sails. They need 100 answers to > this before they proceed. > > There is no marketing or spam involved here unless Google is doing it. > It does not ask you for names or emails. > >> https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSepqfvKhPJykXVBQj8ZVRxEJS5gswZAIRJx1mOEbjiWgYcsRw/viewform >> >> > > > Thanks! > > Joe > > Coquina > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List phrf and rudder stock
I have no ideadidnt get into it with him Bill Bill Walker On Saturday, March 2, 2019 Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: Bill: Are they thinking that the 39’s rating is too high or not high enough? My friend Bill Coleman on this list rates about 15 seconds/mile higher than my 42 Custom, and I can’t point with Bill until the wind’s blowing over 12 and even then he gives me fits. There are one or two points of sail that my boat excels against the 39; otherwise, I’m usually toast on corrected (and sometimes boat for boat). From: WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2019 8:06 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: WILLIAM WALKER Subject: Stus-List phrf and rudder stock Well, my region representative for Lake Michigan phrf says that they are collecting data on a number of things that do not affect phrf, why he doesn't know, but rudder stock is one. He says that lmphrf is taking a hard look at several C models, the 39 being one.. I told him I guessed that mine was hollow tube, and would check in spring as the boat is 426 miles away.. Since doesn't impact phrf, he said fix next year if needed. So, mystery continues... Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List phrf and rudder stock
Well, my region representative for Lake Michigan phrf says that they are collecting data on a number of things that do not affect phrf, why he doesn't know, but rudder stock is one. He says that lmphrf is taking a hard look at several C models, the 39 being one.. I told him I guessed that mine was hollow tube, and would check in spring as the boat is 426 miles away.. Since doesn't impact phrf, he said fix next year if needed. So, mystery continues... Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Rudder Shaft Material
Thanks all for your replies..i guess it will have to wait until spring as I am
426 miles away from boat now.
I have no idea why they ask, but they did. I will try to find out their
thinking and let you know. I assume it o.j.us weight but seems trivial.
I answered "hollow tube" and will correct if I find it is wrong...
Bill Walker
Bill Walker
On Friday, March 1, 2019 Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
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The original rudder stock for my 38 mkll was made from 3” schedule 80 stainless
tube (3 ¼” OD). I know from experience that the 38LF was built with either a
stock made from 3 ¼” OD bar stock, or from 3 ¼” Schedule 80 tube (3 ½” OD
IIRC). My replacement rudder was made using the stock from the 38LF that used
to be called Banana Wind. When he lost his rudder, South Shore made him a new
one, but used the wrong diameter rudder stock and had to supply a second rudder
with the other diameter stock.
So there are C out there with both solid and tube stocks.
The solid stock rudder has a machined head for mounting the emergency tiller.
On the stock made from tube stock, the machined head is a plug that is welded
to the top of the rudder shaft. Looking for the weld might be an easy way to
tell what material was used.
I guess my basic question for the group would be “Why does PHRF want to know in
the first place?” As far as I can recall, the solid bar stock used in my
replacement rudder was less than 100 pounds, and that was only 40 or 50 pounds
more than the weight of the old hollow tube. Would 50 pounds really make a
noticeable performance difference in a boat weighing 12-14,000 pounds?
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 1:26 PM
To: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Shaft Material
Both of my C, a 27 MKIII and our current 37/40+ have solid shafts. I would
be shocked if it was not solid.
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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___
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Shaft Material
I am, and there is a question specifically about shaft..
Bill
Bill Walker
On Friday, March 1, 2019 Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
wrote:
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Bill –
Are you applying online? Rudder type is on the form, but I don’t recall seeing
a question on the shaft
FWIW – my ’84 37 is solid and, assuming it’s original, would bet money yours is
too. With rudder shaft specs alone it’s such a minor impact that A) It
doesn’t justify asking the question and B) if you’re wrong it’s highly unlikely
phrf will dock you the -3 sec/mile.
If the whole rudder is not original, then I understand why phrf is asking more
questions. In that case the builder of the rudder should have more info.
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of WILLIAM WALKER via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER
Subject: Stus-List Rudder Shaft Material
Lake Michigan PHRF is asking whether my rudder shaft is solid stainless or
hollow stainless. Any one know with sufficient confidence?
1981 C & C 36
Bill Walker
Bill Walker
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___
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Stus-List Rudder Shaft Material
Lake Michigan PHRF is asking whether my rudder shaft is solid stainless or hollow stainless. Any one know with sufficient confidence? 1981 C & C 36 Bill Walker Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Plastic? Stainless? Sorry, I am sure they are great, but I am an OEM kind of guy...teak. That said, I made a new set of handrails for my C 36 six years ago. varnished with Minwax spar varnish. Still going strong in northern latitudes. I think the secret to varnish is to seal all sides, then apply at least 5, and 7 better, coats with just a light sanding between. Most, including me on passion, quite too soon because three coats looks pretty good, but fails to provide the uv protection and depth of finish needed to last outdoors. I would not epoxy. Does little more than varnish in this application and more difficult to remove when it comes time to do so. Just my 2 cents. Don't mean to offend anyone. Bill Walker C 36 Pentwater, Mi. Bill Walker On Tuesday, February 19, 2019 John Irvin via CnC-List wrote: I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there? Sent from my iPhone On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor). Marek1994 C270 Legato Ottawa, ON From: Dreuge via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dreuge Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not. I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun. I was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went that route. But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a hot rail is a safety concern. I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go. While StarBoard/SeaBoard are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as much. - Paul E.1981 C Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500 From: Josh Muckley To: "C List" Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not. Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Replace with stainless steel. I think I paid $100 for each rail. Custom made to fit the original holes. Whitewatermarine.com https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855813888sdata=yE%2F4PfPJgYp6C0JgeibpjQ9egUYWhP8poDVWL3KS25A%3Dreserved=0 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Powder coating steering pedestal - pitfalls?
I hesitate to comment because of the status on this list of Dennis and others, whose technical expertise far surpasses mine, but here we go... My friends think of me as VERY particular about my CnC... 5 years ago my pedestal was looking rough. I decided to paint it. Removed what I could easily, taped off what I couldn't, mask off the cockpit with plastic to catch overspray, sanded lightly. Used a rustoleum primer, then three light coats of rustoleum semi gloss. My pedestal was black originally, so kept with that. 5 years later it still looks great...I can't imagine the issues I would have faced to pull the pedestalbut I would paint again if it needed it. Are you sure you need to powder coat? Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi On Tuesday, January 1, 2019 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: Happy New Year Dennis! Where to start? First, good luck finding ANY replacement Morch bits. I can’t recall if Morch used sleeves or needle bearings to support the wheel shaft but I know Edson bearings get destroyed when to drive out the wheel shaft and need to be replaced. Even if you can find or build new pedestal parts, to properly replace powder coating, the pedestal will need to be media blasted to bare metal and then acid washed to make sure the new coating adheres properly. With regards to your engine controller, the throttle and shift shafts remove by taking out a Phillips head screw that retains the shaft in place in the casting. Once they are removed, you can slide out the shaft as well as removing and replacing the two delrin bushings that serve as shaft bushings. Just curious, but does the Morch pedestal have mounting bolts that measure 9 1/2” center to center? If yes, why not save hours and hours of labor and just buy a new or lightly used(see hurricane damaged boat) Edson unit with a through shaft wheel brake and a nice shiny finish? You might also need to buy new aluminum pedestal mounting bolts, but everything else should line up. Give me a shout if you care to discuss options outside of what’s been discussed. Best Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram MA Sent from my iPhone On Dec 31, 2018, at 9:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: OK, Touche' is back in Louisiana from Florida for a couple months for new canvas and some long deferred maintenance. Having the boat 1 hour away rather than 4 hours lets me do some major work. One of the tasks on the list is a complete maintenance process on the steering system. As part of that I am exploring having the pedestal re-powdercoated. Going to be a pain to remove all the instrument cables and engine controls, etc. and strip the pedestal. I think I'm good on removing the pedestal and the idler sheave plate below the deck. I've been in the pedestal a couple times when I moved the engine controls from the cockpit bulkhead to the pedestal using an Edson engine control assembly. I've also pulled a pedestal on a C 29 MK II. I might ask advice if I encounter issues but have some pre-task questions now just for planning. Question 1. I suspect that powder coating will require me to remove the steering wheel shaft and provide a stripped pedestal to them. Not sure how the wheel shaft is installed or how the sprocket is attached to the shaft. Edson's maintenance document (https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf) shows a drive pin and some needle bearings. Touche's pedestal is a Morch. It is NOT an Edson or Yachting Specialties pedestal. Does anybody know if a Morch pedestal is the same? Second question bothering me is the bearing surfaces are on the pedestal where the needle bearing (if any) are? Will this be a problem for the powder coaters? I suspect they will have a technique for protecting the surface from excess powder coat. Question 3. The Edson engine control assembly (#870) is also corroding. I may have it powder coated also. How hard is it to remove the control levers to strip the assembly? Chuck? Thanks, Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing adjustable jib sheet tracks
Josh, For the places you need to cut headliner you might consider going to Ace hardware or a big box store and looking at their selection of plastic hole plugs first. If you can measure carefully you may be able to use a properly sized hole saw to gain access to nuts on bottom side of deck through headliner and the use hole plugs when finished for a fairly attractive and painless completion of work. Just an idea. Bill WalkerCbC 36___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Landfill series
Just poking you...I own a 36...i think phrf is near or identical to 35mk1...at least in lake Michigan Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi. Bill Walker On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote: Hi Bill, I didn't think so. The 36 that I was on is a very nice boat to sail, as you expect of a C And there isn't one listed on Stu's site. http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/brochuresndx.htm Anyone with a brochure out there? Cheers, Russ At 11:37 AM 12/1/2018, you wrote: >So Russ, > Is the 36 considered a landfill series? > >Bill Walker >_ ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Landfill series
So Russ, Is the 36 considered a landfill series? Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets?
Ditto soft shackle.. Make your own, good winter evening project...plenty of videos on line. CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi. (Winter Cincinnati, Ohio) Bill Walker On Wednesday, November 7, 2018 Richard Bush via CnC-List wrote: Edd, I went to the "soft shackle" last year and love it...I have have not had a single (not one) line hang on the shrouds using the soft shackle...I have been pleased with the lack of maintenance required also...; Richard s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596: Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Edd Schillay Sent: Wed, Nov 7, 2018 3:57 pm Subject: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets? Listers, Does anyone use a shackle for their genoa sheets instead of a knot? If so, how big? What type? What kind of breaking strength? All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan, If you have the correct plug to replace the sensor it isnt risky at all. Done it many times on every boat I have owned. Just do.it. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi. Bill Walker On Thursday, October 11, 2018 Dan via CnC-List wrote: I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List wrote: Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. From: Edward Levert via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edward Levert Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong? ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) I've got: GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) Black, and Shield to Ground IN Red to Speed Voltage IN Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN Brown to nothing With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get speed sentences? Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
Re: Stus-List C 30 Mk1 - Issue at top of mast when Furling
Halyard restrainer. Bill Walker On Wednesday, September 5, 2018 Wade Harrogate via CnC-List wrote: Hey Everyone, I have a small problem, hoping someone has seen before. I recently had a piece of equipment break or fail at the top of my mast. I am pretty sure it was used to hold the genoa halyard (which is half wire - half rope) against the mast so that it would not interfere with the rolling or unrolling of the genoa. The piece broke off and I need to replace it as my furling is constantly getting caught or hung up now. Is this shackle or guide called a Fairlead? I need to buy one asap. As I don't know what it looked like, or have a reference to what I need, any advice would be welcome. Thanks Wade C 30 Silik ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Harken furler
Final thought, ordered at about 2:30, Fawcett Marine shipped by 4, arriving from east coast to.michigam Thursday...what a world we live in. Bill Walker On Tuesday, August 28, 2018 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote: Help! Lost the feeder on headfoil off the mark iii harken furler Sunday after a race. Part # 962. Can't find a dealer who stocks. Not pre feeder, but part that goes on extrusion. Several emails out to dealers. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi. Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Harken furler
Thanks to everyone. Called Harken and determined that my furler was Mark III, unit 1 as Dennis suspected. 7.5 inch drum. Feeder is Part #812, again as Dennis said. Found at Fawcett Marine for $80 and free shipping. Thanks to all..wish harken had a better design on this... Never try to remove after gin and tonic time post race.. BILL WALKER C N C 36 Pentwater, Mi Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Harken furler
On Tuesday, August 28, 2018 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Bill, I show the feeder for a Harken MKIII Unit 1 as part 812. Is this same as yours? The fastener shows as Harken 192. Mauripro lists it. https://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/XZHAR812.html Fisheries Supplies says ships in 10-12 days. I recently bought a trim cap for my unit from apsltd.com. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Dennis, Not sure which mark iii I have, there are several parts diagrams for unit 1, as well as other versions. The one you suggest looks like it, but so do others. They all have different feeder part #s..anyone know how to figure out which.mark iii I have..don t see any markings other than harken mark iii.. Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Bill Walker___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Harken furler
Help! Lost the feeder on headfoil off the mark iii harken furler Sunday after a race. Part # 962. Can't find a dealer who stocks. Not pre feeder, but part that goes on extrusion. Several emails out to dealers. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi. Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Boom insert
Google "flex a rail"..something like that? Bill Walker CnC 36 Bill Walker On Friday, August 10, 2018 bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote: Jim, thanks, they don't have it; they suggested the same thing that Russ did...have slugs put on the boltrope! Richard Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: James Hesketh via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: James Hesketh Sent: Fri, Aug 10, 2018 12:37 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom insert Richard, One of the best rigging shops in the U.S. is in Miami, give them a call. They may have an idea what suppliers C used for spars over the years, or may even know what part asking about. sailingservices.com Jim Hesketh Miami, FL C 26 -- Whisper J need help identifying a piece of plastic that is an insert into the slot of my boom, (1985 C 37); this piece effectively makes the slot narrower so that the sail boltrope fits and stays in the slot. I have a loose footed main, but the sail cover uses that slot (Doyle cradle cover). The insert was on the boat when I bought it 4 years ago and has not been an issue, however, now it is breaking into pieces, presumably from UV deterioration and I need to replace that piece of plastic...the Doyle folks say they aren't familiar with the piece; there are no sail makers or reps in our area... anyone have any ideas? thought? suggestions? As always, many thanks! Richard s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Grab rail replacement
DENNIS HAS GOOD ADVICE. easy project. If you want to add a liitle something, notice the top.of handrail.is slightly more narrow than.base, and trim.a little on the table saw before routing the edges. Makes a lottle more graceful.. BILL Walker Cnc36 Bill Walker On Friday, July 27, 2018 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Chad, Making handrails is fairly easy. Get a piece of teak of adequate length and twice as wide as the handrail height. Mark a line down the center lengthwise. Using the old handrail as a template lay out the loops. Using a hole saw with a diameter to match the radius of the underside of the handrail, drill holes to layout the loops. At this point, you can cut the teak piece in two lengthwise. To make the arches, simply connect the holes with a jig saw or a bandsaw. I use a Bosch 1587 jigsaw which, in my opinion is the ONLY jigsaw that reliably cuts a straight line. Now cut the ends. Use a router to round off the underside of the loops, the ends and the tops. Poof! Handrail! Here's one video except the guy does one at a time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LPPM-vZhH0 Dennis C. On Fri, Jul 27, 2018 at 4:52 PM, Chad Osmond via CnC-List wrote: Ok so I'll just plug the holes with a dab of 5200 and glue it up at home and see if I can make it look like new. If I can't at least I'll have a template to get my saw and router going. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List winter cover
I hope this is ok to post, I have an 8 year old winter cover for a cnc 36, professional construction, out of Maritime cotton/polyester fabric. Showing some wear, but still serviceable. Make me an offer. Weighs about 40 lbs, ship from.49449 zip code. PM me for picture from last fall when installed on boat. BILL WALKER wwadjour...@gmail.com CNC 36 Pentwater, Mi Bill Walker On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 Greg Arnold via CnC-List wrote: You have multiple deliveries of Swans and now ownership of a Baltic. Which is the better boat? On 7/25/2018 1:28 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote: You may be entertained these YouTube videos one of my crewmembers made of the Bermuda Race with me on Masquerade, the boat that replaced my treasured C 40. https://youtu.be/_hFRocpOT6I Andy Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List North Nordac Sails
Anyone using Nordac Sails? Comments? Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C 35 wins 1st place
Outstandingcongratulations.. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Monday, June 25, 2018 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: That's awesome! Congrats Dennis! On Mon, Jun 25, 2018, 10:33 AM Dreuge via CnC-List wrote: This past weekend was the Gulfport to Pensacola Race, a 100 NM offshore sailboat race. Active list member Dennis C sailed Touche’, a C 35 mk1, over 100 NM in under 13 hrs to win 1st place in his class. What makes this even more spectacular is the fact that at 40 NM before the finish, Touche’ suffered a total failure of the back stay adjuster. Dennis quickly kludged a temporary fix using a couple blocks and lines led to aft winches. - Paul E. 1981 C 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Queen's Cup Race (Lake Michigan)
A great summary of the race and conditions Neil. It was challenging. We too had equipment issues, with a horizontal tear in our headsail about 5 feet from the head, and a vertical tear in our race main 2 feet back from mast. both held on with a little babying through the night. Finished 8th behind Neil. A disappointing year, but all home safe, though two crew, a newbie and a vet were sick the entire race. Great to meet you Neil. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi On Sunday, June 24, 2018 schiller via CnC-List wrote: Just got home last night from running the Queen's Cup race on Glenn Gambel's C 36. Quite a race, we went across Lake Michigan Tuesday night, 19 June 2018 in the rain with 12-15 kt winds right on our tail. We sailed about a third of the run and motor sailed under main only for the rest. Motor didn't have to run hard. It rained or was overcast all the time that we were in Milwaukee. Race conditions at start (15:25 CDT) were 12-15 kt NNE with 4-7 foot waves, mostly 5 (for those of you who sail on the bigger waters, Great Lake waves a short and steep. Our 4-7 footers come with a 3-5 second period and are quite a challenge to steer in). The QC course this year was almost due east (Milwaukee, WI to Grand Haven, MI) and the winds were expected to be NNE at the start shifting a little north late in the night and then backing back to NE by morning. The weather prediction was pretty accurate. The route was to head as much NE as possible to mid lake and then make the turn down toward GH. Glenn's C 36 did pretty well with a reef in the main and the jib extended to about a #1 a the start. We shook out the reef and rolled out the jib just before last light. Did well until we blew a seal in the backstay adjuster. Lost most of our preload on the backstay. I rigged a line through the adjuster to hold what we had left and we used a sail tie to draw it back toward the pushpit to keep it from pumping. It severely restricted our pointing ability and we ended up getting blown south of our desired course. We corrected with a couple of tacks and finished in the morning at 06:27 EDT. I think we sailed the boat about as well as we could, under the conditions. C was well represented in the race. It was nice to meet Bill Walker from Evening Star. There were 14 C's in the race. We ranged from a C 30-1 to a Redwing 41. We had old and new represented. Celerity, a C 40 flew by us so fast that I almost got off the boat to see why we were stopped :). We finished 7th in our fleet, which I feel good about with the floppy forestay that we had. We brought home everybody that we left with and the boat still floats. We do have a crew member with a pretty good knot on his head from cartwheeling through the cabin. Why he decided to go below in 4-7 footers I'll never understand. Neil Schiller 1983 C 35-3, #28 "Grace" Whitehall, Mi WLYC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Sent from AOL Mobile Mail___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 149, Issue 7
Find A Fastenal store nearby and take it there. They have everything or will get it. Bill Walker CnC 36 Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 Garry Cross via CnC-List wrote: I tried a 1/8 straight punch. It was too big. I could not find a smaller straight punch. Had to use a tapered punch and pulled the pin out with vice grips. Question. Where is replacement from? Are there connectors available? Thanks -- Forwarded message -- From: T power To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc: Bcc: Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2018 17:06:11 + Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll pin size Hi Mike, Thanks for the info and tip on getting them out, I'm definitely going to try pressing them out. Cheers Tom Power Invictus C 30 MK1 Fredericton, NB From: CnC-List on behalf of T power via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 8:44:10 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: T power Subject: Stus-List Roll pin size Hi everyone, I need to replace a foil on my elderly harken furler. They are joined with roll pins, which will need to be drilled out. Anyone have any idea what size they would be. Thanks for any help Tom Power Invictus C 30 MK1 Fredericton, NB -- Forwarded message -- From: "Dennis C." To: CnClist Cc: Bcc: Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2018 13:26:38 -0500 Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll pin size Definitely press or tap the pin out. My rigger buddy and I have worked on a couple of MKI's. We used an appropriately sized punch and gently tapped out the roll pins. Here's Harken's directions on removing/replacing roll pins. http://www.harken.com/uploadedfiles/Product_Support/PDF/4884.pdf Unfortunately, I don't have the diameter of pin to give you. Harken no longer stocks them but they may be able to give you the correct size information. You can them order them from mcmaster.com or another vendor. Be sure to use the correct size. If you use a size that's too small, you risk having a pin work it's way partially out of the extrusion. If your swivel is up, you won't be able to drop it. :) Seen that a couple times. It isn't pretty. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 12:06 PM, T power via CnC-List wrote: Hi Mike, Thanks for the info and tip on getting them out, I'm definitely going to try pressing them out. Cheers Tom Power Invictus C 30 MK1 Fredericton, NB From: CnC-List on behalf of T power via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 8:44:10 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: T power Subject: Stus-List Roll pin size Hi everyone, I need to replace a foil on my elderly harken furler. They are joined with roll pins, which will need to be drilled out. Anyone have any idea what size they would be. Thanks for any help Tom Power Invictus C 30 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Recovering a hoisted furler swivel
Very cool, I will remember this Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Saturday, June 2, 2018 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Recently, my furler swivel got inadvertently hoisted to the masthead (sans sail). Used a simple technique to retrieve it with having to go aloft. Fortunately, Touche's spinnaker halyard blocks are above the fore stay. See: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvseTdEWEFuYjlMVFU I clipped the middle of a long line in a spin halyard snap shackle, put one end of the line over the fore stay and hoisted the line. The shackle passed above the swivel, leaving an end of the line on either side of the swivel. I grabbed the two ends and simply pulled the swivel down. If your wing halyards aren't above the forestay, it would probably be possible to use this technique and flip one end of the line over the swivel once it's hoisted. Saves a trip up the mast. Dennis C. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H, Not thermostats
Thanks Paul..I saw the same resources and that is why I only had one new thermostat...lol. I think now I will disassemble and take a harder look at the configuration of the thermostat housing. Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 Dreuge via CnC-List wrote: Hi, The thermostat on the raw water cooled Yanmar 3QM30H has always been a bit of a mystery on the use of one thermostat or two thermostats. While there appears to be two thermostat holes in the housing, the service manual shows a diagram of only one thermostat and the discussion is in regards to always "a thermostat". The Yanmar 3QM30 parts manual also lists a quantity of 1 for the thermostat (105582-49200). My engine came with one thermostat, so when I rebuilt the engine, I put in one thermostat and it has been working fine. I wished I took better detailed photos of the thermostat housing, because I recall convincing myself that based on the housing, a second thermostat would would do absolutely nothing. Note for the raw water cooled engine, there is only one thermostat from Yanmar that fits so you can’t screw up and mix thermostats of different temperature settings. Early 3QM30 were converted to fresh water using the Sen-Dure fresh water heat exchange kit. With the Sen-Dure kit, the engine used the same thermostat, but one replaced the temp sender. The engine ran hotter because the heat exchanger was not as optimal in cooling water as exchanging hot for cold raw water. But since the thermostat opened at lower temperature, the engine was not as efficient in coming up to the hotter operating temperature. Later Yanmar came out with the fresh water cooled 3QM30F using Yanmar’s own heat exchanger. The 3QM30F uses a different and physical bigger and hotter thermostat which is mounted on the Yanmar heat exchanger and get rid of the old one which was mounted on top of the exhaust manifold. - Paul E. 1981 C 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ On May 28, 2018, at 9:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 20:27:42 -0400 From: wwadjo...@aol.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H Message-ID: <163a94b1b92-c9a-17...@webjas-vab075.srv.aolmail.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Thanks for info. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Monday, May 28, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: Bill; ? A ?raw? water cooled engine passes water from outside the boat ( in your case lake water) through the engine for cooling. A ?fresh? water cooled engine has antifreeze in the engine and a heat exchanger, and the lake water only passes through the heat exchanger to cool the antifreeze circulating inside the engine. ? Josh?s note about making sure you have the correct thermostats installed in your engine is spot on. ? A raw water engine uses a low temperature thermostat and has a low operating temperature. I would have guesses 120-125, but Josh found a spec of 108 for the thermostat. Your operating temperature when the engine is under load should be around 140-145. That helps to prevent deposits inside the engine that will block the cooling passages. ? A fresh water engine runs at a higher temperature ? diesels are more efficient at higher temperatures. You use a 165 degree thermostat and the engine can get to 180-190 under load. ? One consequence of the lower temperature in a raw water engine is that there is increased production of unburned hydrocarbons and soot. Back in the day, when I was a Yanmar certified technician and teaching diesel mechanics, the consensus among the mechanics was that the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar 2 and 3 cylinder marine engines should have the carbon buildup cleaned out every 50 to 100 hours ? at least yearly ? as preventative maintenance. ? On a raw water engine like yours, that would be a very good idea. ? Rick Brass Washington, NC ? ? ? ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H
Thanks for info. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Monday, May 28, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: Bill; A “raw” water cooled engine passes water from outside the boat ( in your case lake water) through the engine for cooling. A “fresh” water cooled engine has antifreeze in the engine and a heat exchanger, and the lake water only passes through the heat exchanger to cool the antifreeze circulating inside the engine. Josh’s note about making sure you have the correct thermostats installed in your engine is spot on. A raw water engine uses a low temperature thermostat and has a low operating temperature. I would have guesses 120-125, but Josh found a spec of 108 for the thermostat. Your operating temperature when the engine is under load should be around 140-145. That helps to prevent deposits inside the engine that will block the cooling passages. A fresh water engine runs at a higher temperature – diesels are more efficient at higher temperatures. You use a 165 degree thermostat and the engine can get to 180-190 under load. One consequence of the lower temperature in a raw water engine is that there is increased production of unburned hydrocarbons and soot. Back in the day, when I was a Yanmar certified technician and teaching diesel mechanics, the consensus among the mechanics was that the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar 2 and 3 cylinder marine engines should have the carbon buildup cleaned out every 50 to 100 hours – at least yearly – as preventative maintenance. On a raw water engine like yours, that would be a very good idea. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 11:04 AM To: C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H Absolutely leave 2 thermostats. I never suggested otherwise. Without a thermostat in one or both of the ports it will act as though the thermostat is wide open all the time providing maximum cooling and the engine will likely never come up to temperature. I was only trying to explain the disparity between your manual and your engine, suggesting that your information (drawings/manual) may have been for the freshwater variant and that because of this disparity you may have also inadvertently installed a thermostat with a freshwater temperature setpoint. Josh On Sun, May 27, 2018, 10:41 AM William Walker via CnC-List wrote: Josh, Thanks, but I must have older or newer than that diagram (1981 boat). My thermostat housing is on top of exhaust manifold, square in shape with 4 distinct chambers, two of which are machined to accept thermostats.. I think I will just leave as has been for the 7 years I have owned boat. a thermostat in each chamber.. Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Sunday, May 27, 2018 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Bill, Check out page 162 in the following link. On page 182 it describes the thermostat setpoints. 160 = fresh and 108 =raw. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yenJtR1BxWjhqZGs/view?usp=drivesdk Josh On Sun, May 27, 2018, 9:28 AM William Walker via CnC-List wrote: Josh, I have a drawing from yanmar manual, not quite same as yours. My thermostat cover has bolt pattern different..fore and aft and side to side..I am always confused by "raw water, fresh water" thing...I draw lake water in and through engine and out...no antifreeze or heat exchange..just direct through and out. Bill. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Sunday, May 27, 2018 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Is your engine fresh water or raw water cooled. By the model number I'm guessing that it is raw water cooled. I don't have the manuals for the QM series but believe that they are the predecessor to the HM and GM. As such many of the parts are interchangeable and much of the design is the same. In my parts diagrams it shows 2 thermostats but only on the raw later cooled versions of the HM/GM. I'll send you a picture off list. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sun, May 27, 2018, 8:35 AM William Walker via CnC-List wrote: Good morning, Yesterday I removed the thermostat cover on top of the exhaust manifold to replace the thermostat which I suspected was bad. I have a yanmar service manual which has detailed drawings of the exhaust manifold on this sea water cooled engine. To my surprise when I removed the cover there were TWO thermostats installed for and aft on starboard side of the exhaust manifold ports. The Yanmar service manual shows only ONE, in the forward port. Since I only had one new thermostat I installed it in the forward port on manifold, cleaned up the other from corrosion and put it back where it was. The second port is machined to accept a thermostat. If you have a yanmar service manual, pictures of this on page 7-A-2 showing one thermostat. Since these
