Re: [Drakelist] Article in April 2009 QST

2009-03-19 Thread Ron Wagner

No offense taken.

I replied only to stir the pot of the original thread.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Wed, 18 Mar 2009, richard radke wrote:


Hey Ron,

Hope you didn't take offense.  None intended.  All in good fun.  Easy, 
practical (did I mention cheap), homebrew projects are always welcome to see. 
Good job. I've always looked forward to the April issue, and having my leg 
firmly pulled.


73
Rick W9WS


On Mar 18, 2009, at 7:48 PM, Ron Wagner wrote:


Rick,
As the guys at work would say, the buggy eyed guy with the Caterpillar 
under his nose is for real. :-)


The TR7 came from a good home, and was not the issue.  The mic was the 
issue.  I tried so many I can not remember.  Good thing for classifieds on 
the net or I would have quite a collection.  The home made mic on the boom 
arm is really my full time mic for my TR7.  Best thing I ever did for my 
voice radio hobby.


TNX es 73,
Ron WD8SBB


On Wed, 18 Mar 2009, richard radke wrote:

'Course then there was this home brew mic project, also drake related. 
Could that be the spoof.  Maybe the author was just try'n to throw us off.


Rick



On Mar 17, 2009, at 8:34 PM, Jim Shorney wrote:


On Tue, 17 Mar 2009 19:50:09 -0500, richard radke wrote:

maybe it's the annual spoof article in the April Fools issue.

It's real. The author has had a web page up about this rig for a while
now. The article is also on Ron's site:
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/THE_DRAKE_TR7_RENEWED.pdf
73
-Jim
--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, 
and he will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
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Re: [Drakelist] Article in April 2009 QST

2009-03-18 Thread Ron Wagner

Rick,
As the guys at work would say, the buggy eyed guy with the Caterpillar 
under his nose is for real. :-)


The TR7 came from a good home, and was not the issue.  The mic was the 
issue.  I tried so many I can not remember.  Good thing for classifieds on 
the net or I would have quite a collection.  The home made mic on the boom 
arm is really my full time mic for my TR7.  Best thing I ever did for my 
voice radio hobby.


TNX es 73,
Ron WD8SBB


On Wed, 18 Mar 2009, richard radke wrote:

'Course then there was this home brew mic project, also drake related. Could 
that be the spoof.  Maybe the author was just try'n to throw us off.


Rick



On Mar 17, 2009, at 8:34 PM, Jim Shorney wrote:


On Tue, 17 Mar 2009 19:50:09 -0500, richard radke wrote:


maybe it's the annual spoof article in the April Fools issue.


It's real. The author has had a web page up about this rig for a while
now. The article is also on Ron's site:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/THE_DRAKE_TR7_RENEWED.pdf

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and 
he will learn for a lifetime.


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Article in April 2009 QST

2009-03-17 Thread Ron Wagner
Well being the neutral person I am, I liked the other article with 
the Drake TR7 on pages 78-80.


I'm not biased!!!   ;-)

73,
Ron WD8SBB



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Re: [Drakelist] Dayton and Drake forum--is there one?

2009-03-14 Thread Ron Wagner

Evan,
How are things going? I have not heard much lately.  I continue to keep
you and Carolyn in my prayers.  Ehat is your current job situation? 
Things seem to be very tight around the base.  We had a person retire, and 
they are not filling the position, even though it is on the contract. 
Guess they are trying to return money to the government on this contract.


Did you have a chance to see QST for April?  You can find my article on a
boom arm mic for my TR7.  You can see my other Drake rigs in the photo of
me in my shack.

Got to run.  Have a plumbing issue that I must attend to today.

73,
Ron



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[Drakelist] Sorry folks

2009-03-14 Thread Ron Wagner

for the cc of the list when trying to communicate with Evan.
73,
Ron WD8SBB


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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 with Modern Linear

2009-03-03 Thread Ron Wagner
Folks, this looks like one for something I saw, I think in Ham Radio 
magazine, years ago.


There was an article that used the station dummy load as the primary part 
of a RF divider to send to the station's tuner.  It would provide at worst 
something like a 2:1 SWR.  Something like a 100 ohm pickoff going to the 
tuner.  With infinite, your rig basically saw 50 ohms, with 0, your rig saw 
50 and 100 ohms in parallel (33 ohms).


Does anyone remember an article like this?  If so please let us know.  It 
looks like that might be adaptable for situations like this.


73,
Ron WD8SBB




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[Drakelist] Interesting Drake trivia find?

2009-02-21 Thread Ron Wagner
I was doing some work and had my factory T4XB manual open. I was looking 
at page 34 and 35 spotting things out when I happened to notice that the 
chassis top side photo, page 34, has the T4XB with the old style tuning 
knob (like the TR3), and the chassis bottom photo, page 35, has the newer 
small flute tuning knob.


I wonder how many times Drake owners have looked at the photos and never 
noticed.  I know I have not in 30ish years.


73,
Ron WD8SBB


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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Power Supply Question

2009-02-16 Thread Ron Wagner



(Note:? G4ALG had posted some notes on a similar problem that got me to

looking at this issue and his notes led me to run separate power lines
for the high-current and low-current connections that fixed his problem
and my problem.)

If running separate lines fixed the problem, then the power supply does 
not sound like the entire issue.  It sounds more like you are having 
excessive voltage drop on the power cable.  Or the power supply drops 
some, and the remainder in the cable finally pushes it over the edge.


Just my $.02

73,
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Re: [Drakelist] Mounting Fans

2009-01-18 Thread Ron Wagner
I use surplus 24 volt fans and half wave rectifier and cap off of the 
filament line.  Nice and quiet.  As for mounting, I use grommets between 
fan and cage with small nylon wire ties.


I think there are about as many options as there are style of fans :-)

73,
Ron WD8SBB



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[Drakelist] Neutralization pre 1963 Handbook

2008-08-30 Thread Ron Wagner

Mike,
The 1963 ARRL Handbook has the following which I have used on my TR3 when 
I owned it.  They are speaking of a grid driven amp, but it is the same for 
a GG which is what Drake has in their final stage.  I just used a 
receiver, but you can make the device if you care to, but be careful.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

The procedure in neutralizing is essentially the same for all types of 
tubes and circuits.  The filament of the amplifer tube should be lighted 
and excitation from the preceding stage fed to the grid circuit.  Both screen 
and plate voltage should be disconnected at the transmitter terminals.


The immediate objective of the neutralizing process is reducing to a 
minimum the rf drive voltage fed from the input of the amplifier to its 
output circuit through the grid-plate capacitance of the tube.  This is 
done by adjusting carefully, bit by bit, the neutralizing capacitor or 
link coils until an rf indicator in the output circuit reads minimum.


The device in fig 6-22 makes a sensitive neutralization indicator.  The 
link should be coupled to the output tank coil at the low potential or 
ground point.  Care should be taken to make sure that the couple is 
loose enough at all times to prevent burning out the meter or the 
rectifier.  The plate tank capacitor should be readjusted for maximum 
reading after each change in neutralizing.


The grid-current meter may also be used as a neutralizing indicator.  With 
plate and screen voltage removed as described above, there will be a change 
in grid current as the plate tank circuit is tuned through resonance.  The 
neutralizing capacitor should be adjusted until this deflection is 
brought to minimum.  As a final adjustment, plate and screen voltages 
should be applied and the neutralization capacitance adjusted to the point 
where minimum plate current, maximum grid current and maximum screen 
current occur simultaneously.  An increase in grid current when the plate 
and circuit is tuned slight on the high frequency side of resonance 
indicates that the neutralizing capacitance is too small.  If increase is on 
the low-frequency side the neutralizing capacitance is too large.  When 
neutralization is complete, there should be a slight decrease in grid 
current on either side of resonance.



1n34 diode
$-|-
$ |  |
$  link coil   C ---ma meter
$--- |
$ |  |
$-

ASCII fig 6-22
circuit of sensitive neutralizing indicator.  1n34 is diode MA is 0-1 
direct current millimeter and C is a .001 uf mica bypass capacitor.




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Re: [Drakelist] Cable for L-4B

2008-08-14 Thread Ron Wagner
Just replace the two pin socket with an RCA jack.  You will find that mod 
on some AC4 power supplies beacues it was a Drake service shop mod.  Or I 
think at Thom's site there is an article on making your own plug with bras 
rods and epoxy.  www.zerobeat.net


http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/voxrelayplug.html

73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



In a message dated 8/13/2008 4:30:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The amp is use less with out this cable

Far from it. All you need to do is make up a simple 2 conductor cable with
virtually any size wire. The pins can come from old crystals or tube bases.
Several years ago, Radio shack had some twin lead connectors with identical
spacing. Drake came out with a conversion kit for the AC-4 PS which was simply 
an
RCC jack on a piece of metal which replaced the original 2 pin connector.

When wiring it up, you can use a VOM to determine polarity. One side of each
connector is a hard ground. The other lead is hot.

It is not necessary to use the AGC circuitry and many folks do not. Follow
the AGC instructions in the L-4B manual.

Don't make the mistake that many do and try to drive the pants off the amp.
You will shorten the tube life and the signal on the other end will not differ
significantly with a few hundred watts less power from your end. Those bottles
are getting expensive and used properly, will last for many years.

I suggest that you investigate installing a soft start circuit in the amp.
There are a number of versions available, some being a simple series plug in the
AC line. Also, when you first fire up the amp if it has been sitting a long
time, let the bottles cook at least 30 minutes or so before you hit them with
HV.

The L-4B is a great little amp.  Have fun with it.

73,

John,  W4AWM



**Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517 
)



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7: the fan direction question

2008-08-04 Thread Ron Wagner

Gary,
As you say, it is a system, which is after the heat of specific areas 
within the TR7.  Same holds true of the PS7.  I hear people say the fan 
does nothing for the pass transistors.  The Drake engineers explained to 
me that they were not so much after the transistors, but rather the filter 
capacitors.  When I heard that I had one of those duh moments.  You can 
tend to forget that the caps under heavy load generate heat.  They provide 
~25 Amp of current during the troughs of the 120Hz ripple, then recharge 
during the peaks.  A whole lot of flexing going on inside those filter 
caps.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Sun, 3 Aug 2008, Garey Barrell wrote:


Jim -

Once again, the Drake engineers actually knew what they were doing.  Amazing!

As always, getting the hot air  _OUT_  and away from the area is more 
important than blowing it around INSIDE the radio.


Any cooling  _system_  is just that. 
Good job!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



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Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod

2008-07-28 Thread Ron Wagner

Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
FWIW, in John Loughmiller's (KB9AT) book A Family Affair, the R L Drake 
Story on page 145, Steve Rawling, G4ALG is credited as saying that To 
enable the TR-7 to transmit on all frequencies 1.5-30 MHZ (excluding 2.5 
and 5.0 Mhz bands) simply unsolder collector Q9001 on the DR7 board.


I beleive Jim's thread was to be able to add those bands back in with his 
mods w/o defeating the out-of-lock inhibit.  I know that my TR-7 
(actually John's backup rig) is TX on all bands and the out-of-lock 
inhibit is not cut.  I just tried CW on the 2.5 and 5 Mhz bands and it 
works fine.  A caveat is that I do have an aux board installed with 10Mhz 
prgrammed.  My aux switch it in the normal position.


73,
Ron WD8SBB



--
On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 03:26:20 -0400, Joe Pyles wrote:


Simply remove Q9001 from the DR7 board accomplishes the same thing without 
cutting any traces and is

easily reversed.

This simply stops the TX inhibit signal from U9003 Ham Band PROM. 73, Joe 
KC9LAD.


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Re: [drakelist] Re: VA7TO 2-B: Lubricants?

2008-07-26 Thread Ron Wagner

Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
The product you mention is, as best I can tell, lanolin from sheep.  I use 
it on my lawn mower deck and a couple other places.  Have never used on 
delicate items like electronics.  I usually use LPS1 on electronics and 
things like micrometers and calipers.  I have used LPS1 as scratchy 
volume control cleaner with good luck.  I have not used it on the Drakes 
that way.


The can says LPS1 lubricant is safe on plastic, fabrics, rubber, paint 
and finishes.  I have used it on the balls of my Drake 4 line PTO.  It 
smoothed out my PTO.


Your milage may vary.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008, Don wrote:


Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--

http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/globals/faq.html

 It's been around for sometime, and really does work as well as their
website claims.
doesn't breakdown plastics, doesn't gum -up, doesn't dry out, repels
moisture,  ect,ect.
I can vouch for it.   It does however have a bit of an odor when first
applied.

just a happy customer.
Don
ad7ll



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Re: [drakelist] Re: VA7TO 2-B: Lubricants?

2008-07-26 Thread Ron Wagner

Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Do a google on lps 1.  I get it locally from a friend who has a shop. 
It is widely available.  Not sure what it is, but has done very well by 
me.  Based on google hits, it is availalbe at Ace Hardware.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Sat, 26 Jul 2008, Don Cunningham wrote:

Don Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Ron,
Is this LPSI lubricant readily available??  I don't remember seeing it, but 
wasn't really looking either, hi.  I have the front panel off my R4C 
replacing a bad mode switch that the seller conveniently didn't tell me was 
not functioning properly (another story!!), and want to do something with 
lubing the PTO while there.

Tks,
Don, WB5HAK 


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Re: [drakelist] Cleaning Drake copper chassis

2008-07-21 Thread Ron Wagner

Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Jack,
Seems to me that the mix you preset is actually somewhat acidic and cleans 
the copper by etching.  Although it would work, and I have used a similar 
mix on copper weld wire so that I could clean it for soldering.  I would 
suggest anyone using this be careful as the plating on the chassis can 
be very thin after years of exposure.


73,
Ron WD8SBB


On Sun, 20 Jul 2008, Jack Dunigan wrote:


Hi, I'm new to the list but not so new to restoring old things. I've had pretty 
good luck with a paste made up in the kitchen. Dissolve 1 teaspoon salt in 1 
cup white vinegar. Add enough flour to make a paste. Apply the paste to copper 
and let sit for 15 minutes to 1 hour. Rinse with clean warm water, and polish 
dry. Don't scrub too much and try to avoid abrasive pads. They scratch the 
surface. The original laquer coating develops cracks allowing corrosion to set 
in. If you want to remove all the old laquer use acetone or alcohol. As with 
any process, try it in some out of the way place first before attacking the 
whole surface.

Jack


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Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation

2008-07-17 Thread Ron Wagner

Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
So how does a Heath VTVM compare to a RS FET VOM?  Mine has similar or 
better charactistices to a VTVM.  I guess I am too young as I never used a 
VTVM, but as a kidI bought what I could afford (long ago).


BTW I acquired a Heath V-7A VTVM at a hamfest to play with, but it is on 
the shelf because I could not find probes.


I know I used my FET VOM to peak up the R4B, and seems like that circuit 
at the TP is very high impedence.


TNX es 73,
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [drakelist] Drake Cabinet Screws

2008-07-09 Thread Ron Wagner

Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I think an electric scre driver would be in order.  :-)
73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Wed, 9 Jul 2008, WB4YQV wrote:


And after 216 years you would have worn out at least 5 sets of cabinets and 
untold number of screwdrivers...   And your age at that time, you would need 
someone else to operate the screwdriver, lol...73's, Charlie...
 - Original Message -
 From: Jim Shorney
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 1:03 AM
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake Cabinet Screws


 Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
 --
 On Tue, 8 Jul 2008 21:38:55 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote:

 Gee, and if I bought the 10,000 qty of the reasonably priced ones, I could
 change out the screws in both the B and C lines yearly for 216 years, or
 bi-anually for 108 years.


 Or you could bill them as highly musical oxygen-free screws and sell them to 
audiophools for six bucks a
 screw.


 7

 -Jim
 NU0C




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[drakelist] 12 Volt PS7 Power Supply Questions

2008-07-07 Thread Ron Wagner

Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hello all, hope you have been having good RF with your Drakes.

Question, on the Drake PS7, what are transistors 2n3566, 2n4402 and SCR 
2n5060 for?  They look like some type of power shutdown for the 1723, but 
how does the circuit work?  Thanks for any insight.


TNX es 73
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [drakelist] Test

2008-04-29 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Be aware that almost all ISPs now delete potential spam e-mail.  The 
stats are that close to 80% of the e-mail traffic that is on the net is 
spam.   Although my ISP uses loose settings and I get a lot of spam, I 
still loose some e-mails that are real e-mail.


One week my ISP had issues and dropped the spam filter and I had roughly 
100 spam e-mails a day.  I am not trying to defend the ISPs poor quality 
implementation, but it is a necessity to run spam filters, and 
unfortunately they are not perfect.


73,
Ron WD8SBB


On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Please be aware that AOL deletes incoming and outgoing email periodically 
without any error messages to either the sender or receiver.? This contributes 
to missing posts from reflectors, general email, etc.? In addition, some email 
gets delayed for days or weeks and then magically appears.? Not sure how many 
ISPs have this problem.



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Re: [drakelist] Drake Mic. 1077

2008-04-26 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
So who is doing the Drake logo so we can buy and upgrade the mic? :-)

Ron WD8SBB

On Sat, 26 Apr 2008, Gary Poland wrote:



Gary Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Take a look at Astatic's 878HL desk mic ...

http://www.astaticinstalled.com/product.asp?cat=10product=459


73, Gary

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Re: [drakelist] TR7 Knobs

2008-04-04 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Not tried the 7 line, but for my 4 line I used White Out (the toxic 
stuff, not the fake water based stuff).  Excess can be wiped off with 
finger if needed prior to drying.  Dried can be chipped off with your 
finger nail.  I even put lines on my HR2600 knobs which only had slotted 
knobs before.  Mine has lasted over 15 years on the 4 line.


73,
Ron WD8SBB


On Thu, 3 Apr 2008, Bill Carpenter wrote:



Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
The white lines and dots on my TR7 knobs have become almost invisible.  Has 
anyone re-painted these and if so what paint did you use?


73,

Bill  NZ0T 



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RE: [drakelist] antenna info

2008-04-03 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Polyester rope is a good choice (Dacron is a brand name of it).  Polyester 
will almost not decay unless exposed to chemical or flames.  Have had mine 
up for years and it is till going strong.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Wed, 2 Apr 2008, Terrell Hamilton wrote:



Terrell Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Parachute cord has worked extremely well for me - it's multistranded and
braided as well.  I don't know if it is nylon or Dacron, but I think it may
be UV resistant.

Terry
K7WLD


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Re: [drakelist] Propagation Conditions

2008-03-02 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Thom, you sure know how to cheer a guy up  :-)  73, Ron WD8SBB




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Re: [drakelist] C-Line CW Transcieve Operation ???

2008-02-12 Thread Ron Wagner
Well if should be the same as the B-line.  You connect all the cables on 
the back, and then set the transcieve swith to which VFO you want to use 
as the control.


Try these links to get the manuals to explain how to go about this:

http://www.dproducts.be/Drake_Museum/manuals.htm
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeManuals.htm

Be aware that there is one cable that is kind of touchy (I think it is the 
injection), but the others are just about anything will do.


As far as offset of the carrier, the Drakes shift the carrier about 1Kc so 
that it will pass into the SSB filter.  So you are never really zero beat 
when you tune in the XCVR position.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Tue, 12 Feb 2008 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:








Hey Gang:

In anticipation of the coming contests, I would like to be able to operate on
160 meter CW in the Transceive Mode.

The only reference I could find was in the October 1968 CQ-magazine, written
by Don Schliesser (WA6UFW-now K6RV).? And, it doesn't make a lot of sense to
mei.e., not clear why mods have to be done both to the T-4XC and R-4C.

Is there any more recent information on how to do CW-Transceive  Running
both VFO's split works OK, but it's a pain in the butt when trying to pull in
a new one on 160 meters (assuming simplex).

Tnx  73's

Bill W6FF (ex-W6WCW, WB6WCW)
Santa Barbara (almost), Ca.




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RE: [drakelist] Microphone question

2008-01-21 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Rich,
The radio is a 300 watt INPUT radio.  At the best linear efficiency you 
could expect ~60% output on the radio, or 180 watts peak.  I know there 
are those who say they get way more then that reading, but they are either 
running into an uncalibrated meter, or are putting more the 300 watts into 
to the rig.  And I can see the hate mail coming on this :-)


I would do the following:  1) you know you have an improper mic impedence, 
get that fixed.  2) see how many watts are coming out in CW mode.


#2 will get you and idea how good your RF chain is in the TX.  I would 
expect about 150 watts OUTPUT on CW.  That should be easy to measure, but 
don't leave the rig in CW mode key down too long.  The sweep tube finals 
are not made for key down duty. Seems to me that the TR3 did not need a 
key in the jack to be key down aka the key jack is closed by default. 
Was easy way to tune the rig as I recall.


#1 will get good audio into the radio. Then see what your peak reading 
watt meter says.  BTW, do both the CW and the SSB on peak reading mode of 
the meter.  Peak reading modes are basically a hang amplifier.  Charge 
a cap and use its voltage to driver the meter via a set of internal amps. 
The peak on CW, is *basically* what you would expect to see on peak of 
SSB if your meter is working correctly.  Also, for CW on peak, you should 
see you meter go up quickly on keying the rig, and then slowly go back to 
0 when you let off the CW carrier.  If it does not, then your peak meter 
is not working as I would expect it to.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008, Rich Carter wrote:



Rich Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Ron
I'm using a Daiwa HF wattmeter on the peak setting.  While I realize the
meter should show a low reading, I would expect that a I should need to
reduce the RF gain from max to prevent overdriving the rig.  Since the rig
lacks speech compression, I don't know what I should measure, but I would
expect a 300W rig to drive at least 10W or or more.  What do others see on
their meters?

It seems to me that the collins mic I have is not matched properly.  I have
my hands full alignment issues.  It may be best for me to replace the mic
with something that is known to work with this rig.

Rich - KE1EV



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Re: [drakelist] RV7 jumping frequency

2008-01-10 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Can anyone tell me if their RV7 shows the following symptom?

When you trip the TX relay (either with PTT or VOX) the TR7 frequency 
display jumps in frequency.  It seems to always be up in frequency and 
anywhere from 200 to 700 hertz.  It then very quicky returns to the 
frequency I am dialed to.  My internal PTO does not seem to show this 
symptom.


I can not see any variance in the voltages on the RV7.  I had to use an 
FET analog meter because the o-scope is playing dead :-(


Maybe the voltage change is fast enough that the damping on my FET VOM is 
missing it?  I do not have the RIT on.


TNX es 73,
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [drakelist] R-4 Series Crystal Alternatives

2007-12-20 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Eddy,
The HR mag article has issues.  I spoke with the author some time back, 
and he was not interested in being a technical resource for an out of 
date article.  BTW He is not being difficult, just honest.


I did however get him to send me updates that he had done with the 
agreement that I would not bother him.  I am sure I have them on a CD 
somewhere.  I however have taken the path of TR7 for all band and the 
twins for ham band work.


The issues included a variac diode that is not longer able to be found, 
and spurs (I think) 100 Kc either side of the frequency that were 
generated.  I think there are variacs that are usable (requires a large 
min to max cap ratio), but the spurs are still a problem.  So consider 
this one a less then desirable solution.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Wed, 19 Dec 2007, EP Swynar wrote:


Good Afternoon All,


--- August 1972 HAM RADIO magazine (Frequency Synthesizer for the Drake R-4;


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Re: [drakelist] R-4 Series Crystal Alternatives

2007-12-20 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Although you will need to be careful on purity of signal, check out 
NJQRP's DDS.

http://www.amqrp.org/kits/dds60/
I have not been watching them closely lately, but at one time they had a 
DDS microchip controlled signal generator.  Basically a little bit of 
engineering would make it a replacement for an FS4.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [drakelist] ac4 write up

2007-12-15 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Gary,
I looked at this some years ago.  I had a design started that would drop 
the filiament voltage off the rig.  Kind of hard to run a tube w/o a 
heater.  You would have a 2-3 second delay looking for bias voltage, and 
if not there relay off the filaments.  Looking in the rig would quickly 
tell you what was going on.  I kind of like to play with the low voltages 
myself. 
73,

Ron WD8SBB


On Sat, 15 Dec 2007, Garey Barrell wrote:



Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Mike -

Yeah, it's not as easy to crowbar a 700V power supply as it is a 13.6V one!

Probably simplest is a thyristor across the AC line (after the fuse! :-)  ) 
and drive it through an optocoupler from the bias supply.  An R/C delay on 
the coupler to give the bias supply a few seconds to come on, and after that 
if the bias drops to x volts POP!   It really shouldn't happen but once, and 
a fuse is cheap compared to finals, etc.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Mike Bryce wrote:

Mike Bryce [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Gosh..

I thought about that, but here's no way to crowbar the bias circuit.

in the old supplies, the damage is caused by a lack of bias. So, if there 
is a failure of the bias supply, i.e. it quits, how can you fix that?


the only way I could come up with would have been a system that deprives 
the transformer of it's primary voltage, shutting down the supply. It would 
have to default in the off position too, as you would not want the supply 
to cycle on, find the missing bias, then shut down, the power up, find the 
missing bias supply, shut down and on and on.



mike

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large 
number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced



On Dec 15, 2007, at 5:28 PM, Bill Horne wrote:


Bill Horne [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Is there a provision in the kit for a crowbar circuit to safeguard the rig 
if the bias (or other) supply fails?


Bill, W1AC



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Re: [drakelist] T-4B Power Amps

2007-11-29 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I have ordered and had good luck with tubes from:
http://www.radiotubesupply.com/
Dr Roy has always treated me right.  I have never ordered 6JB6s from him, 
but many other types.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007, DW Holtman wrote:


Hello,

Does any one have any recommendations on where is a good place to buy Sylvania 
or  RCA 6JB6 tubes beside RF Parts?

Thank you for any information.

Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN



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RE: [drakelist] From Steve WA7EZB - Parting out Drakes

2007-11-16 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Like illegal drugs, there is only a supply if there are buyers to be had.

Enough said.

73,
Ron WD8SBB



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Re: [drakelist] 4 line blue filters

2007-11-08 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I guess my statements were misunderstood as a flame to Carey.  They were 
in fact defending his asking the question.  I think a look on the web is 
prudent, but you can never know if the data is actually good, hence you 
ask here.


As for the link statement, it was only meant to allow everyone to know 
that it does in fact work as of last night.


73,
Ron

On Wed, 7 Nov 2007, Carey Lockhart wrote:

well i am the one who started this thread. and sorry for that i am. and i did 
not ask where to get the materials. i asked for the call or the web address 
of the man who sells the filters that more resemble the originals. now i am 
two months new to drakes and drake collecting. i joined this list in search 
of knowledge and technical assistance. there are collectors here that have 
gone thru all of the googling searching trying and still rely on experience 
in the end.  i simply asked them to share. apparently was wrong about the use 
of this list. i did not know what kind of material it was, what its name is, 
that it was sold my FILM LIGHTING COMPANIES. who would have guessed film = 
radio. i still didnt get the info i needed but now i have several sources for 
material to make my own if i so decide. so 73's


Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.kc5gtt.com



On Nov 7, 2007, at 6:32 PM, Ron Wagner wrote:



Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Not a flame, but rather an observation.

I agree to a point.  At least look on the web before you ask here, but... 
the thing about Google and web information in general is that you can find 
all kinds of bad information on the net.  And unless you follow this list 
and know the players you never know if what you read on a site is from 
someone who has a clue or not.


As for the archive link on zerobeat, it works for me.  Maybe it was the 
site was down when you looked.


73,
Ron


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Re: [drakelist] 4 line blue filters

2007-11-07 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Not a flame, but rather an observation.

I agree to a point.  At least look on the web before you ask here, but... 
the thing about Google and web information in general is that you can find 
all kinds of bad information on the net.  And unless you follow this list 
and know the players you never know if what you read on a site is from 
someone who has a clue or not.


As for the archive link on zerobeat, it works for me.  Maybe it was the 
site was down when you looked.


73,
Ron


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Re: [drakelist] Project stuff and list owner ?

2007-07-27 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Carl,
I am guessing that with the AC4 board, your AC3 no longer has the test 
point that mine did (if your had it at all).  On some of the AC3s, there 
is a test point and a (I think) 10 ohm power resisitor.  The test point is 
always grounded, unless you want to set the bias on the tubes.  When you 
want to set the bias on the tubes, you lifed the test point ground strap, 
and measured the voltage to ground across the resistor.  That voltage was 
directly proportional to the current.  I would have loved to see that 
added to the AC4R replacement board, but it was out before I though about 
saying anything.


Since I sold my TR3, I can not describe it better.  I think I still have 
photos here somewhere.  I also know I have a copy of my manual which 
describes the process and has the schematics.  I wish Drake had continued 
that test point ont the AC3s as that makes the bias adjustment process a 
no brainer.


73,
Ron WD8SBB



After more reading I have to check the meter resistor to verify, ergo
correct bias voltage adjustmentif its not one thing its another.



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[drakelist] TX relay specifications

2007-07-19 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I have documented that you can use a Potter  Brumfield R10-E1-Y4-V2.5K 
relay for the Drake tube TX.  I have two R10-E1-Y4-J2.5K relay here.  Can 
anyone tell me if they work for the Drakes, or ???   Thanks.

Regards,
Ron WD8SBB


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Re: [drakelist] TR7 at FD

2007-06-19 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Question on the subject of hear/not hear.

Although I know the book definition of phase noise.  Can anyone describe 
to me what it sounds like?  I actually have a couple early fully 
synthesized rigs here to sell for a friend (one I guess actually noted for 
its phase noise).  I would like to set them up and listen to hear what I 
am missing with the TR7 (yes the TR7 has some too, as do all synthesized 
signals).


Is it simply background noise, or noise modulation/intermod of the 
TX/RX signals, or both or ???


Thanks.

Regards,
Ron

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Re: [drakelist] PS7 shutting down

2007-06-11 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Based on the PS-7 manual page 4, the 120 selection is for 108-132 volts 
input.  And yes I doubt that voltage that low would run the PS-7.


Given the sequence of events, my personal guess would be that a filter cap 
opened or lost capacity.  Check the small 12 volt power supply used 
for the voltage regulator board.  The 723 family can get rather strange 
with VCC under voltage.  Its voltage would sag as you draw from the 
primary.  Also check the primary supply caps.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [drakelist] need help with c-line

2007-05-22 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I uploaded copies of the various C line that I had to BAMA.  Please have a 
look there for reasonable copies.  bama.sbc.edu

73,
Ron WD8SBB


On Mon, 21 May 2007 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--

 Dale,

The lamp must be grounded via the cable to the T4XC and is illuminates when 
frequency control is via the R4C or split.


Also, please be aware that there were three major production runs of the R4C, 
and possibly some minor ones.  Hence, that schematic you have may or may not 
be the right one.


73,

Evan
**
 See what's free at 
http://www.aol.com.

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RE: [drakelist] I bee second

2007-05-14 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
A better way to tune up twins is listed here:

http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@www.zerobeat.net/msg01540.html

Saves the finals like you would not believe.

73,
Ron



Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist
gang

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On Sun, 13 May 2007 13:13:06 -0600, sebdesn wrote:




That even applies to someone like me, whose last tube type radio was



an R4B T4XC that I traded in on a TR7 in 1978 or soWhen I got the



C-line, It took a while to remember the exact drill...





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RE: [drakelist] Noise Blanker discussion

2007-05-11 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
David,
I can honestly say that at my QTH, I can not live without the TR7 NB.  I 
get racket from who knows where in the summer.  Without the noise blanker 
a good signal is lost in the crud.  Every NB that I have had (TR3 with 
34-NB, B twins and TR7) have done good for me.  BTW the noise is not in my 
house or it would be fixed.


73,
Ron WD8SBB


On Fri, 11 May 2007, David  Chris Drake wrote:



David  Chris Drake [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang
--
Hi all,
I would like to start a thread regarding the various noise blankers
Drake produced over the years.  I think I've had most of them.  One in a
TR6, R4C and a TR7A.  Never put one in my Tr4C since I never found them
usefull.  The TR7a has one, and I never use it.  I have to say, I never
found any of them to be of much use, if any.  Most of these are/were
designed for pulse type noises, which, depending on your location and
application may or may not be needed.  These blankers usually sell for a
lot of money or Epay, and seem to be coveted items to many.
Practically speaking.Are they worth it?  And,...outside of mobile
operating, what noises are they effective?  Someone also may wish to
discuss other noise reduction alternatives such as the ANEM which
el34guy mentioned.
Thanks to all for your anticipated responses !!
David
Wd9cmd


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Re: [drakelist] T4X tuning issue

2007-03-13 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Wayne,
It really sounds like parasitics on the surface.  Can you look at the 
output power level to see that it continues to increase as well? A 
parasitic will generate output, just not on the correct frequency.  Have 
you checked your neutralization recently?  Is your preselector in the 
right position?


It sounds like this only happens once in a while.  Is it on all bands, or 
just higher bands?  Are you tuning with the tune position, or are you 
tuning in CW mode (not recommended by Drake, but will work if you are a CW 
op)?


73,
Ron WD8SBB



- Original Message -
From: Wayne Heil [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 2:01 PM
Subject: [drakelist] T4X tuning issue




Wayne Heil [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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When I try to tune my T4X and I get to the part where I am supposed to
increase the gain until the plate current stops increasing, sometimes
the plate current  just keeps increasing and won't level out.  I am
tuning into a dummy load.

Any idea's where to start looking.

-Wayne, KB6OQJ
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[drakelist] TR7 power supply questions

2007-02-19 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Have been looking at the PS7 power supply and wondering.

What exactly are the 2n4402 and 2n3566 doing in the circuit?  Looks a 
little like doing voltage/current regulation for the mc1723 chip itself.


If I determine that I want to use a modern power supply, is a 25 A 
continuous with say 28-30 A surge adequate for the TR7?  The specs on the 
PS7 indicate that it is 25 A continuous, but says nothing on the surge 
which I am going to guess is more like 35-40 (I know Drake over engineered it).


TNX es 73,
WD8SBB


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[drakelist] TR7 heat generation

2007-02-13 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Can someone tell me what generates all the heat on the right half of the 
TR7?  I would say it is not the light bulb as mine are all LEDs.  Still 
the TR7 gets nice and warm to the touch over the PTO area during casual RX 
only, band monitoring.


TNX es 73,
Ron WD8SBB

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[drakelist] TR-7 PIN diodes again

2007-02-05 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Folks,
I can not find the part numbers for the pin diodes on the TR-7 for Down 
East Microwave.  My notes show the MA4P1200 for the high power ones, but 
what number for low power ones?  Maybe the MPN3404 diodes?  Thanks.


73
WD8SBB Ron

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Re: [drakelist] TR-3 Filament Supply Fuse

2007-02-05 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Mark,
Years ago when I had my TR3, it blew that fuse.  I replaced with identical 
and never had another issue.  That would have to be 15+ years of use.  I 
can not say now, as I sold it a few years back.  I am guessing that the 
fuse takes a good deal of abuse from turn on cold filament surge as you 
say.  Not sure if going to a slow blow would be needed based on my 
experience.

73,
Ron WD8SBB


On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, MNACE wrote:



MNACE [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Dear folks,
I was just aligning a TR-3, and the 8A fuse blew.  This fuse had always
looked pretty bad anyway.  I suppose it gets a certain amount of abuse from
the surge until the filaments get up past their cold resistance.  I have
replaced it with a 8A slow blow, and the alignment now in the final steps.
Is this OK, or should I use fast-acting fuse???  I suppose there could be a
filament-to-cathode short on a tube also that would cause this ???

Thanks fellows,
Mark
N5KAE




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Re: [drakelist] 4 series TX question

2007-01-25 Thread Ron Wagner
Been a while since I owned one of the TRs, but do you think there is 
enough room in a twin?  My T4XB looks kind of tight.


73,
WD8SBB

On Thu, 25 Jan 2007 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I think the most common(and its not real common) modification to the 
transmitter is putting in 6146 tubes for the finals. Never heard of anyone 
adding a 3rd tube to the transmitter. Anyone done it?


Mark
W0NCL

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Sent: Thu, 25 Jan 2007 3:11 AM
Subject: [drakelist] 4 series TX question

Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
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Has anyone modified the 4 series transmitters to have three final tubes like 
the 4 series trancievers? 

Ed-KV5I  
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[drakelist] Specs for TR7 mod

2007-01-09 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Good evening all,
I am looking at the modifications in the Comm Qtrly mag Summer 1992 by 
Scott Prather.  Can anyone tell me about the specs on the reed relay 
by Magnecraft W104MIP-42?  Things like current, voltage, switching speed, 
etc.


I see there are a couple places on the web who have them for ~$70 which 
seems a bit expensive to me.  Maybe they are special enough to demand that 
price, but I am thinking maybe not.


I would like to try the QSK mod, but need to find that relay's specs and 
see if I can sub something for the pin diode.  I know that diode will be 
a killer, so I am trying the relay first.


73,
WD8SBB

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[drakelist] TR7 VOX question

2006-12-27 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I have always used PTT on my TR7, but tonight I was setting the VOX so 
that I could start using it.  I notice that the first few syllables come 
through the speaker.  For example if I say hello one two three the work 
hello is quite audible in the speaker prior to being cut off.  Is this 
normal?  What might I have going on?  Thanks.


Seasons greetings to all.

TNX es 73,
Ron

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Re: [drakelist] Shure 444 element size?

2006-12-11 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Well I just opened my 444D and the element is about 1 7/8 inch diameter. 
Keep in mind that the cavity that an element sits in also had an effect on 
tonal quality.

73,
WD8SBB

On Sat, 9 Dec 2006, Chuck Wyatt wrote:


http://www.rigpix.com/accessories/electrovoice_630.htm

sturdy.  Has anyone explored the insides of the 444 enough to have a sense
of the size of the element?  I was thinking I could perhaps use it in the
nicer-looking 630 body.  The 630 element is maybe just under 2 inches
diameter.

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Re: SV: [drakelist] That e-bay shark....

2006-11-30 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Karl, et al,
I want to thank the folks here for being open about their issues. It 
is nice to know that you are not the only one to get stung on e-pay. 
Buyer be ware, as the almost mint means missing a few tubes.


And this type thing is not just with Radio equipment.  I was again enticed 
and got some food dehydration racks which were like new.  Only problem 
was that they had been in a dishwasher and run through the dry cycle and 
were all warped.  Yes you can return them, at your expense so that they 
can sell them again.  Sometimes it is just not worth the hassle and you 
just chalk it up to live and learn.  I typically no longer use e-pay. 
Support our ham sites which offer for sale listings.


Regards,
Ron

On Wed, 29 Nov 2006, Karl Henrik Laache wrote:


Hi guys



Now I think it's time to terminate this discussion.  I've been following it
for a couple of weeks, and now everything that needs to be said is said.


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[drakelist] What parts to have handy

2006-09-24 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Folks,
I have some parts in my Drake first aid kit, but am wondering what other 
feel might be good to have on hand for my TR7 and B twins.  I have several 
sets of finals [some still from Drake :-)], some LEDs for the DR7, and a 
few other misc part.


So what parts do you think I should try to have on hand?

Maybe pin diodes (how many?), relays?

Let me (and the group) know what you think goes out the most or will have 
issues and maybe why.


I may not personally fix the problem, but without parts, no one will 
be able to keep my loved ones running.


73,
Ron WD8SBB
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Re: [drakelist] Death trap on e-pay

2006-09-01 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Yes it is, and I got a reply from the guy saying Thank you for your 
input. As you can read from the auction This stuff

came from an estate... I am not a tech. I just buy geat and resell
it. By the way it would look good at your qth, Mason

One would hope that he at least let the buyer know about what he has been 
told.  I would hope a life is worth more then a few buck.


On Thu, 31 Aug 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Is this the one that came from a Silent Key? Gee, wonder what the SK died of? 
Could it be electrocution? I agree that this thing is a death trap. To anyone bidding on 
this turkey, well, let's just say nature will take its course and the fittest will 
survive. And may we expect to see your prized Drake collection on ebay soon. 
ditditditdahditdah.


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Re: [drakelist] copper cleaning

2006-08-11 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Please see chassis cleaning/restoration at:
http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/chasisclean.html
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/ChassisCleaning/ChassisCleaning.htm
Not perfect, but reasonable. Best benefit is that you can seal and prevent 
further deteriation.

73,
Ron

On Wed, 9 Aug 2006, francobevi francobevi wrote:



francobevi francobevi [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

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Hello guys!

how to remove the ugly signs of corroded copper? Is there a chemical product 
that can be used to clean the chassis of Drakes?


73s,

Frank

_
Personalizza MSN Messenger con sfondi e fotografie! 
http://www.ilovemessenger.msn.it/


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Re: [drakelist] DF4NW preamp for TR7?

2006-07-16 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm

On Sun, 16 Jul 2006, crawfish wrote:



crawfish [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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The PA0TRT is off-line(404).
   Joe Crawford W4AAB

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[drakelist] FS Drake LP filter and Electic Radio mags

2006-07-10 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Cleaning up the shack a bit.

Drake TV-1000-LP Low pass filter
This is the copper filter that can be used at lower power on 6 meters. 
1000W below 30 Mhz.  $25 plus shipping from 45383


Electric Radio magazines
Whole years: 1993, 1997, 1998, 2002, 2003
Jan and Feb 2005
$10 for all plus shipping from 45383

TNX es 73,
Ron WD8SBB
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Re: [drakelist] FS Drake LP filter and Electic Radio mags

2006-07-10 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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ER mags spoken for, and LOTS of other who want them.  Sorry.  If the first 
person fails to follow through I will go to the next e-mail in line.


TNX es 73,
Ron
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Re: [drakelist] Neutralising T-4X

2006-06-01 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Kevin,
Sounds like you are using the 1950s ARRL handbook method of neutralizing. 
It has been forever, but I did it with my TR3, and it works great.  It is 
very easy on the finals.  I did it on my T4XB some years ago, and have not 
had to worry since, but I also do not operate the twins on anything over 
20 meters.


Sorry that I can not be more specific, but the method outlined in the old 
handbooks where you disconnect the various voltages seems to work just 
fine, and has almost no hurt on the tubes.  I used a RX in place of the 
o-scope.  As always, your mileage may vary.


73,
Ron
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Re: [drakelist] Variac

2006-03-26 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Had an advertisment just the other day from MCM electronics, they had one 
on sale for about $70, normally about $125.  mcminone.com

73,
Ron

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Sun, 26 Mar 2006, Bill wrote:



Bill [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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To expand on the question of a variac.who sells such?  Where can one be 
bought...?


Bill VE3ES

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[drakelist] RV7 PTO strange happening

2006-02-13 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I had a strange event occur today.  I usually have the rig set so that 
the RV7 controls the TR7 as it is more stable then the internal PTO (not 
that either is that bad).  I was set this way, and suddenly the net 
control station sounded like it was drifting rather fast up and down.  I 
thought maybe it was the station, but then another station did the seem 
thing.  When I went to the internal PTO things seemed okay.  Went back to 
the RV7 and it was like a DVD movie when the audio/video goes pixelized. 
Kind of digital disturtion sounding.  Swapped back and forth again to 
compare and everything seemed to clear up.  It ran fine for about an hour 
after this and then I had to leave.  Have not tried it since.  This all 
started about 15 minutes after the rig was turned on.  Rig had set for 
about 1 week.


This has happened only this once.  But I was wondering if anyone had seen 
this type behavior.  I would prefer to cut it off before it becames 
something bigger.


Thanks,
Ron
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Re: [drakelist] 6JB6 substitutes

2006-02-12 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Basically the standard substitutes are going to be problems.  Even 
some 6JB6s are issues.  Try this link for discussion of issues with 
neutralizing off brands and subs

http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@www.zerobeat.net/msg04475.html

All that said, the critical issue with life on the 6JB6s is to not key 
down long while tuning, and as someone else suggested making sure you are 
correctly tuned on the PA (aka resonated the tank). If you run twins have 
a look at my post on a kind to finals tune up here

http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@www.zerobeat.net/msg03471.html

And the book A family affair  about the RL Drake compay has a good 
discussion on test done.


Good luck, and hope this data helps.
73,
Ron

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Sun, 12 Feb 2006, Paul wrote:


I see where 6JB6's can be substituted with 6KM6 sweep tubes.Has anyone tried 
these? Are they a good sustitue or not? Do they physically fit in the RF cage?

  Tnx  73  AD3G

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Re: [drakelist] R-4B switch

2006-01-18 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Keith,
If memory serves me right, John Kriner is where I got mine
http://siscom.net/~jandsuz/index1.htm

You may wnat to use a PC power distribution set of switches to turn your 
rigs off/on.  They are like $25 or less.  There are some switches (TR7 for 
instance) that are just no longer available.  A cheap solution is leave it 
on all the time and power it down via the distribution switches.  These 
things have like 5 switches and a master.  I have the TR7, R4B, T4XB, and 
12 Volt supply on my switchs at this time.


73,
Ron

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Wed, 18 Jan 2006, Keith Hamilton wrote:



Keith Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

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I am in need of the ON-OFF switch for my R-4B. This switch is attached to the 
back of the 'Function rotary switch. Does anyone know of a source for this 
switch?  Or maybe someone has a parts radio and would be willing to part with 
this switch?

Thanks and 73!  Keith , N8QO

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Re: [drakelist] DC-3 DC-4 question

2006-01-09 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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My DC4 has a 2 prong female socket.  I assume the DC3 does as well.

As far as how efficient, that is a tough one.  One would think only one 
conversion would be best, but.


73,
Ron

On Mon, 9 Jan 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Question about DC-3 or DC-4...

Wondering how the 110VAC is supplied to an R-4any from the supply.  Also,
i'm wondering if the DC-x supplies are more efficient than using an
inverter to power a set of twins.

thanks

--
73 Jason N1SU
http://n1su.com/
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Re: [drakelist] R-4B bandswitch lubrication

2006-01-09 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Don, and anyone else on the list whom I may have offended.
I was not try to offend anyone, or suggest anyone is not correct in 
statements about being careful with cleaners on the wafers and or how to 
clean up after a screwup.


Keith,
In my mind it only makes sense to try something that someone suggests 
may work which requires virtually no effort and is guaranteed to not do 
further harm before trying still more fixes.  Your decision.  Let us know 
what you do and how it turns out.


Jason,
I was not alive in the 50s.  My experience was in the late 80s with a 
similar product to DeOxit which stated on the spray can that it was safe 
on all materials.  I did not want to suggest self healing with time and 
heat as I do not know if DeOxit will dry from the wafers like the stuff I 
had.  I would still be a bit worried, but to try drying is a very 
inexpensive if it works.


73,
Ron

On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Jason Buchanan wrote:



I was lucky years ago with self healing (drying of wafers) from spray


Well, when the guy told me that he did this I thought he was nuts but his
explanation for not being worried was that the material in the Drake rigs
was not as spongy/porous like the old stuff used in TV sets in the 50s.  He

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Re: [drakelist] AC3 vs AC4 ?

2006-01-04 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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One big difference is that the AC3 has a set of resistors in the bias 
line.  Those resistors are jumper shorted out normally with a small screw. 
Lifting the jumper short allows you to easily measure the idle current 
(actually voltage across known resistance).  Much easier then trying to 
look at the fat needle against fat marking.


You can measure the current on the resistor under the chassis too, and 
should to make sure the finals are balanced.  But to set the current 
easily the AC3 was a gem.  IMHO.


Okay, something of a thesis.  :-)

73,
Ron


Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Tue, 3 Jan 2006, Garey Barrell wrote:



Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Functionally identical.  Electrically almost identical.  Only real 
difference is the age of the components.


14 words, not counting the sig!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

Drake C-Line Service Manual
http://www.k4oah.com



chuck grandgent wrote:


chuck grandgent [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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OK, simple question.
In 25 words or less, what's the diff between AC3 and AC4 ?
I've seen schematics, is the AC4 just a slightly more progressive design ?

Thanx,
  Chuck, K1OM



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Re: [drakelist] Electronic air cleaners damage rubber

2006-01-02 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Okay, let me see if I can show my ignorance.

Negative Ions and Ozone are the same thing?

O know that O3 is a very reactive oxygen molecule, and will more or less 
bleach anything it comes in contact with.  My understanding is that Ozone 
in any amount is not generally good.  OTOH hand I am not exactly sure 
what a negative ion is.



The above warnings were given with the Ozone unit which I purchased.

FYI.  There have been reports that the so-called electronic air cleaners 
that emit negative ions damage rubber products in short order.  For 
example a pinch roller on a 6 mo old VCR that aged 20 years or a

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RE: [drakelist] R: R4C +B Voltage

2005-12-26 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Gerry,


has expired. But don't they usually dry up and short to ground? Another


I have seen electrolytics fail in two modes.  Dry up and create high 
ripple, and dry up and short out.  Most of my childhood table top BC 
radio fixes were the high ripple failure mode.


I am guessing that my past experience with high ripple may well have been 
high ESR.  High ESR is a strange thing.  The capacitance is there, but 
since there is high resistance inside the cap, it is just like that cap 
has lost all its capacitance when put under load.


73,
Ron
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Re: [drakelist] R4C +B Voltage

2005-12-24 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Ishii,
I see others tell you to parallel a cap across C163 for a test.  I see 
using a scope etc too.  If you are like me, somewhat test equipment poor, 
you can use a 10uf or so capacitor rated for 200 volts in parallel with a 
DVM (or analog volt meter) on the AC scale.  That will basically give you 
the AC ripple voltage on your DC line.  High ripple suggest bad capator or 
heavy over loading.


I choose a voltage rating for my DVM capacitro that is higher then the 
voltage DC that I am measuring.  Also observe polarity.


You do not say what the problem is that the RX has.  I assume bad audio 
hum, etc.  Don't do as I have, measured the regulated side of the +B and 
thought it was the problem when it was not.  Then again that was a T4XB 
and I do not think the R4B or R4C has any 0A2 tube regulator on the +B.


Let us know what you find.

Good luck,
Ron

On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Hello
My R4C has developed a problem.
The +B voltage that should be originally +150V is only +130V.
The capacity of the electrolytic capacitor C163  decreases??
May I have any suggestions about this cause?

73 de JA2JVC Ishii

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[drakelist] OT: ARRL digital technology

2005-12-18 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Gentlemen,
ARRL it seems, has a complete D-star configuration at HQ.  Icom loaned it 
to them.


I think the ARRL see the writing on the wall.  HR modulation technology 
as we know it is history.  Without digital modulation we will not be able 
to hear over the crud created by BPL and other industrial monetary 
ventures that pollute the environment.


So sad, but likely so true.
73,
Ron
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[drakelist] PS7 filter caps, color codes?

2005-12-16 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Was looking around for potential replacement capacitors for my PS7.  Not 
finding exact replacement so I may go with slightly modified replacement.


One time I thought someone mentioned that the color of the wrapper of 
modern capacitors had meaning as to the type of service the capacitor was 
designed for.  Anyone know about this?


73,
Ron
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Re: [drakelist] OT coax contamination?

2005-12-08 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Dan,
You are correct, and I will likely do that next hamfest.  In the mean time 
it just seems like an interesting puzzle.  Guess it is the Engineer in 
me.  Want to know what happened, what damage it did, etc.  I plan to see 
if the same thing has happened to the jumpers I have in service in the 
shack.  It may give me another indication as to what happened.  Maybe some 
time when I did some spray painting in the garage did something, or maybe 
the gasoline for the lawn mower vented enough to cause an issue.


Yes I am a stange one, hi.  :-)

73,
Ron

On Wed, 7 Dec 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Ron, why take a chance on a product, that has changed and, will likely
change further from original, with no telling what the end result of that change
will be.

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Re: [drakelist] OT coax contamination?

2005-12-07 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Thanks for all the replies.

Here is a bit more information.
Cable is labeled CZ connector and cable micro 8U. It was bought a Dayton 
many years ago.  It is used around the shack for jumpers.


The sticky stuff is most likely plasticizer.  It has not caused the 
center dielectric to change that I can tell.  It is however a pain because 
I can not get it clean enough to get a good solder.


Since there seems to be no black, I am guessing it is not normal 
contamination.  It may have caused issues with the cable, but I will have 
to figure a way to test it.  Ideas on testing solicited.


For testing, I have an MFJ antenna analyzer, Transmitters, watt meter, DVM 
and freq counter.  Not the best selection of test equipment, but along 
with a R10 receiver, normally enough to get me by.  I am thinking of 
testing power loss on 10 meters as a potential test of the coax?


73,
Ron
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Re: [drakelist] TR-4, TR-4C, TR-4Cw

2005-12-07 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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/Cw RIT will run close to $1000.  Way overpriced for what it is, but they 
just didn't make that many of them.   Unfortunately, RIT is just about a 
necessity for CW operation today, since so many use very narrow filters and 
don't know how to tune around with their transceivers looking for signals! 
Just in case you're thinking of adding RIT to a TR-4CW, that's not very 
simple either.   The PTO in the RIT model has an RIT input, but none of the 
other 4 Series do.   The 'RIT' PTO is the same as used in the TR-7.




There is an article from June 66 QST for RIT on the TR3.  I put it on my 
TR3 with very little effort.  I took it off when I sold it.  I used the 
remote VFO connector for several of my connections.  I did not follow the 
article exactly.  I do not know how much RIT it gave me, but it did 
work well or SSB.


Basically it put a varactor diode on the PTO tube.  I think the newer 
Drake PTOs have a lug for use with RTTY which could be used for the RIT 
function connection.  All this is on memory, and mine is not like it 
was at one time.  Any way have a look at the Drake museum, I think the 
article is there.  If not, I think I still have a copy and can get it 
scanned.


73,
Ron
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[drakelist] OT coax contamination?

2005-12-06 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Folks,
I have encountered a strange issue here in the shack.  I have a spool 
of coax which has been with me for 20 odd years.  When I went to make 
jumpers, I find that the copper shield is kind of sticky.  It would seam 
that the outer shield has leached into the inside of the coax.  Is this 
coax any good?  I don't think the coax was exposed to weather, other then 
storage in an unheated garage.  Is this normal?  Is this what is called 
contamination, as in non-contaminating coax?


Thanks for the off topic bandwidth.

73,
Ron
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Re: [drakelist] crystal sockets

2005-11-27 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I have seen people take the correct size wire and solder onto the 
crystal's wire leads.  Then push the pins into the socket (I guess with 
pin nosed pliers).  Not too bad, but a bit difficult to unplug.

73,
Ron

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Sat, 26 Nov 2005, Jason Buchanan wrote:


I have a couple crystals that i'd like to put into use but they're the small 
size with legs about 1/4 inch apart.  Just wondering if there are any 
adapters out there to fit these small crystals into or if there's a way to do 
this another way.

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RE: [drakelist] TR7 fan recommendation?

2005-11-21 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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My guess is that Drake never figured you to run high duty cycle modes 
while mobile.  I would think a RTTY or Slow Scan setup a bit big for 
a mobile installation in the late 70s :-)  Then again what do I know.

73, Ron WD8SBB


I never understood the AC fan bit. A DC fan can easily be powered from
the radio, base or mobile. An AC fan is a doorknob if running mobile.
Maybe they were just a lot cheaper at the time.


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Re: [drakelist] R4C B1000

2005-11-12 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Mike,
In some applications a 6AU6 is able to be used for a 6HS6.  I have never 
owned a C line to know if that will work here.


http://www.nj7p.org/Tube1.php?tube=6hs6

NJ7P runs a great service with his tube database on line.

73,
Ron


Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Fri, 11 Nov 2005, Mike wrote:

So I did the net thing and came up with horrendous prices on the 6HS6 - no 
way will I shell out that much

for a miniature tube that obsolete.
Being my third R4C something was strange, I remember a 6EJ7 but thought I was 
wrong it's in the T4XC?

-WRONG. My other R4C (SN 26374)  had all three mixers with 6EJ7's.
So now what? The HS6  is a 7BK base and the EJ7 is a 9AQ.   I suppose I could 
install new 9 pin bases

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Re: [drakelist] Excited TR-7 newbie with ????

2005-10-28 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Craig,
I found my fan at the Findlay Hamfest for $6.  It was a sprite fan, and 
I just had to add a little male power plug.  I bought a cheap extension 
cord for like less then $1 and cut, soldered, and shrink tubed wires.  It 
seems to be about the same loudness as my original Drake fan on the rig 
(the sprite fan is on the PS7).

73,
Ron



Craig Roberts wrote:

4) The rig's cooling fan bearings are shot.  The fan runs, but is very 
noisy.  Any recommendations for a reliable, quiet replacement?



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Re: [drakelist] My smelly PS-7

2005-10-14 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Steve,
Mine has the smell of rancid fried fish.  Or at least that is the best I 
can describe it.  Not sure what the bilge of a sail boat might be, but am 
guessing similar to scummed up lake water.  Not quite the same smell.


I have had some luck in just going inside and cleaning the dust out.  I 
*think* mine may have been caused by the previous owner having the PS7 
around food frying.  It is currently non-smelling.  I just took a dry 
cloth and dusted out the inside of the PS7.  An now awaiting the test of 
time results.  My PS7 was never really grimed up, so I never cleaned it. 
I added a fan after finding a reasonable fan at a hamfest.  The Drake 
reunion video had the PS7 engineer on stating that with a fan keeping 
the caps cool the PS7 would run 25 amp all day.  After adding the fan, 
I noticed the smell issue.


I will let the list know how thing turn out for me.  I am also going to 
stop by one of the local electronic outlets to see what they may have as 
far as caps.  I am hoping I can find some surplus with newer date codes 
that might work well.  If I do, I will also let the list know.


73,
Ron


Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Thu, 13 Oct 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


And I have noticed the smell as well.  Am I to  understand that it comes from
the caps?  If they are available and 20 a piece, I'd have to say that it
smells to me  like a good deal because I am tired of my shack smelling like the
bilge of an old sailboat (can't think of what else to liken it to).

Who is a good source - Mouser, Digikey?

Thanks
Steve KD2ED


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[drakelist] PS7 filter cap replacements?

2005-10-08 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Are there recomended replacement filter caps for the PS7?  I prefer not to 
reengineer, if that is possible.


I had noticed a smell coming from the PS7 after I added a fan.  I finally 
took the PS7 apart, and the smell is coming from the filter caps area. 
Seems to go away the longer I had the cabinet open sniffing around.  The 
paper-board cover on the caps smelled bad, but after about 5 minutes it 
went away.  I am guessing that while running, the caps are venting, and 
the paper-board cover is cathing the smell.


Thanks,
Ron


Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann

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Re: [drakelist] AC 3 AC 4 PS.

2005-10-05 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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http://www.theheathkitshop.com/

find the AC4R link on the home page

73,
Ron

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Wed, 5 Oct 2005, Jerry M Judy wrote:


   Some time back someone was offering an update circuit board for the 
drake power supplys. Can anyone tell me who that was?

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Re: [drakelist] T-R relay

2005-09-29 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Although I have not tried this on the Drakes, I know that a crisp dollar 
bill pulled through relay contacts can do wonders for cleaning.  Might 
take an edge of a dollar and tear a stip.  Slip the strip into the 
contacts, then pull it back out.  A crisp bill seems to have just enough 
abrasive to pull dirt, but not enough to damage the contacts.


73,
Ron

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Thu, 29 Sep 2005, Garey Barrell wrote:



Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Tom -

IF the problem is the relay contacts, a drop of DeoxiT on them will clean 
them up for another 30 years.  Do NOT use a file or abrasive of any kind.  If 
they're bad enough to need that, you're better off to replace the relay.


Tom Taylor (MSTV) wrote:


An intermittent problem I see with my R-4  T-4 (the xmtr without a VFO)
pair is after transmitting, the receiver is often practically deaf. A
few clicks of the key or mike switch to trigger the relay often fixes
the problem. My theory is that the contacts on the relay, particularly
the antenna switchover contact, needs cleaning. Perhaps replacing the
relay with this recommended replacement will solve the problem.

Tom N7TM


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Re: [drakelist] MN-2000 with ladder line

2005-09-29 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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If it's short, then a 1:1 would be a better choice.  A short antenna presents a 
very low resistance and running a 12 ohm antenna (not unusual) through a 4 to 1 
transformer is going to be hard to match with any tuner.  If it's always long 
then a 4:1 might be better.

I think it depends if the balun has all leads as wires and on which way 
you install it.  Based on my long forgotten college texts, seems that 
almost any transformer can be run as a step down or step up.  If you have a 
12 ohm load and 4x it up, then you have 48 ohm.  If the antenna presents a 
nice value, then a 4x up transformation would most likely still be 
inside the range of a decent tuner.  If it is really high, flip and it 
will transform down the value.  It just looks to me like a 4:1 gives 
me more options (read that tuning range) then a 1:1, provided I make the 
leads movable.  Like you say my thoughts are worth what you paid for 
them, maybe less.


As for putting the balun on the reactive side, yes the school of though 
is currently not to do that.  Unfortunately the MN-2000 does not lend 
itself to putting a balun on the input side.


One could also look into the Palstar or other balanced tuners.  My guess 
is that given the current collecting craze that a new tuner may be about as 
economical, without the risk of getting stung.  Spoken from one how has 
gotten stung.  Again,  what you paid for them.


73,
Ron  WD8SBB
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[drakelist] PS7 filter caps replacement

2005-09-28 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
My PS7 has been working well, but since it was kind of tucked away on my 
desk self, I installed a generic fan for a little cooling.  After doing 
so, I noticed that the fan exhaust has a very mild odor.  Kind of like, 
but not exactly like capacitors going bad.  You know the old oil, rancid 
kind of smell.  Might be the used fan motor and oil, don't know yet.


So, before I pull things back out and look at the problem, can anyone tell 
me about PS7 capacitor replacements?  Would prefer not to do any 
modification while replacing.


Thanks  73,
Ron


Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


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Re: Fw: [drakelist] MN-2000 with ladder line

2005-09-28 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I think a 4:1 balun would be more appropriate.  I think that is what the 
balun for the MN-2000 had as an option from Drake.

73,
Ron


Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Wed, 28 Sep 2005, Jerry M Judy wrote:



- Original Message -
From: Jerry M Judy
To: Bill Carpenter
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] MN-2000 with ladder line


Simply feed yor ladder line with a 1:1 balin.  KE8NP
 - Original Message -
 From: Bill Carpenter
 To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 7:34 PM
 Subject: [drakelist] MN-2000 with ladder line


 I'm tired of living with my MFJ tuner and am interested in the MN-2000 tuner 
but I need to match to 450 ohm ladder line.  Any mods out there that are easy 
to perform that don't harm the original value?  Is there room inside to add a 
balun or can some sort of outboard mod work OK?



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[drakelist] OT restoral of inlay dials?

2005-09-17 Thread Ron Wagner


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Guys,
I have tuning dials from a Johnson matchbox which have the silver (crome 
maybe?) plating eaten off.  The ones that go on the capacitors.  The 
inlays are there, so I could reuse the dial IF there was a way to recoat 
the dial without filling in the inlay.  My couple of attempts were not so 
remarkable.  Any ideas appreciate.


To make it Drake related, I do use the matchbox with my TR7 and B twins. 
Thanks for the use of the bandwidth.


73,
Ron


Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


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RE: [drakelist] T-4XC permanent current problem

2005-09-07 Thread Ron Wagner


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Glad to know I am not the only one who thinks those stupid meter studs are 
a huge design error.  The engineer on that one should be flogged.  Of 
course it is likely the savings of 1 or 2 cents per unit that caused the 
original design to be redesigned by the finance engineer.




A short inside the meter. I never did like the way those meter studs were
not fixed like others. Obviously in dismantling everything and re-assembling


73,
Ron
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Re: [drakelist] C line dial warp.

2005-09-02 Thread Ron Wagner


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I would look at putting them in a car.  I have never had a need for this 
on Drake equipment, but a similar situation cause plastic issues for me 
once.  I put the car dash in the sun, and sat the plastic on a flat cookie 
tin on the front seat with a large book on top.  Monitored that day and 
sometime in the afternoon it was done.  In my case the original offender 
was leaving it in the car, and it was never going to be the same, but it 
did flatten fairly well.  I think key is to monitor closely, like very 
hour.

73,
Ron

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann

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[drakelist] Test

2005-08-24 Thread Ron Wagner


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Not seen anything for several days, and had reports of e-mail not getting 
to me.  Testing.  Thanks for the bandwidth and sorry for the inconvenience.


73,
Ron
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Re: [drakelist] odd idea

2005-08-06 Thread Ron Wagner


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I made a short (about 3-4 inches) jumper plug for my B line with heat 
shrink around it so that it does not scratch the rig.  I now use the TR7 
4-pin standard for all my mics (I only have antique radios that need a 
few pins).  I also have made up male-to-female 4-pin coiled jumpers etc 
to mate or extend things with.  Although my bassy voice is such that I can 
only use one specific mic per rig, it offers the flexability to move and 
experiment with mics.


As for the box idea, that sounds interesting.  Given a quality switchs and 
good shielding, you could do mic A-B experiments very easy.  You could 
also swap to a DX mic from a rag-chew mic if the band suddenly went 
down.  It has so many possibilites.


73,
Ron


Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


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Re: [drakelist] collector Parting out radios

2005-07-24 Thread Ron Wagner


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The only problem is with sellers that list the item as know good because 
they are parting out a know working machine.  And if you think this is not 
happening, you need to read the ads.


On Sun, 24 Jul 2005, Jim W7RY wrote:



Jim W7RY [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I have to disagree Gary With old radios that you can no longer buy parts 
for Parting out a radio is a good thing.  Perhaps YOU will need a part 
that is no longer available anywhere except from an old radio.

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Re: FW: [drakelist] Drake Differences

2005-06-08 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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On Wed, 8 Jun 2005, Bollini, Maurizio wrote:

Garey, you said:
The T-4X SSB signal is a little dirty by today's standards. 

Is it true as well for the TR-any line?
It is because of poor bandpass filter shape (low number of poles) or
because of poor low pass filtering out the final stage (I mean harmonic 
content).
Or other?


Maurizio,
I am fairly sure that what Gary speaks of is the crystal filtering.
Basically the older radios have a wider filter.  Because the bandpass is
not as narrow (fewer poles) the rejection of the unwanted sideband and
carrier (even with balance there is always some) is not as far down.  So
there is more unwanted sideband and carrier present then current state of
the art.  As state of the art changed, so did the ability to produce a
higher quality signal.  In the case of Amateur SSB rigs, better filters
with better ability to reduce carrier and unwanted sideband is one of the
measures of signal quality.

As for the TRany, I can say that the TR3 was dirty compared to my T4XB.
So given that they too went through filter changes I would guess that they
are similar.  But my primary experience is with separates, so Gary may
need to correct me.

Keep in mind that filter quality changed over the years.  So being 
dirty can be said about any older rig.


I think that the IMD and output filtering stayed about the same on the 
lines.  The FCC harmonic content rules have tightened, so the older rigs 
may not meet the new specs.  Gary will have to comment on that.  I would 
suggest that everyone run a tuner and a lowpass filter.  A good tuner will 
help reduce harmonics getting to the antenna, and a Drake tuner sitting 
next to the Drake rigs looks good too  :-)


73,
Ron WD8SBB
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[drakelist] A kind to finals tune up procedure for Drake Twins

2005-05-28 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I have had a couple requests for this information.  I think Thom is now 
archiving our list, so I thought I would reply via the list.  I am not 
sure if there is a way to acomplish similar tuneup with a TR or not.


I have done this tuneup procedure for years, with great results.  Many
people have told me how slick it is and saves a lot of wear and tear
on your 6JB6s in the twins.  I use this on the B line, but would
think it should work on any Drake twin line.  Please forgive me if this is
a repeat.  I also do not take credit for the procedure, I think I read it
somewhere.

Have your RX ready, that is preselector tuned and on frequency that you
are going to TX on (peaked on a signal or band noise).  Turn the twins to 
seperate.


All the following is done on the TX:
- Have the TX attached to a dummy load.
- Turn the TX to CW mode so that it does not warble when in spot.
- I usually run 40 and 80, so the sideband is in the X position, not
sure, but I think it may need to be there on all bands you use
this pretune up procedure on.
- Turn function to spot.
- Turn up the TX gain to about 10 o'clock.
- Tune the TX VFO so that you hear a beat note in the RX.
- Turn the TX preselector for max volume or S-meter reading on the RX.
Basically you are using the RX to detect the peaking of the TX.  I can not
get my S-meter to move, but I have a vary obvious volume change.
- Peak the plate control on the rig for max volume or S-meter
reading (During live tune up, this is the control that you dip).
- You are now basically tuned up.  Only thing needed is to load the
finals for max power out.
- Turn the TX gain down.
- Turn the function switch to SSB (or leave in CW if you are running CW).
- Turn the sideband switch to desired sideband, or X for CW.
- Final Tune your TX the same as you would normally.
- Your rig should already be plate dipped and ready to just load to a
higher power output.

Why this works is that in spot, all the low power sections of the rig
are just like they are during transmit.  By allowing the power to blead
through the final tube and tank circuit the rig allows you to hear the
note through the RX antenna.  Then when you peak the output, you are
tuning the TX preselector for max drive, and peaking the tank circuit for
resonance. This is exactly what you are doing during regular tune up.  The
only difference is that you are using a different observation for
resonance (max output, instead of max current dip).  I would say that this
saves at least 50% of the key down time on the finals during tune up.

I normally can tune up the TX with maybe 5 to 10 seconds of key down.  I 
then back off the TX gain to like ~15 watts and tune the MN4 tuner if 
needed.


I do not take credit for this procedure.  I am pretty sure that I read
this somewhere years ago. But the theory is so obvious when you think
about it.  The Drake RX is being used as a field strength device.

73,
Ron


Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann

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Re: [drakelist] If it works, don't fix it!

2005-05-27 Thread Ron Wagner


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I am one who seldom does a replacement of any component unless I have a 
reason to believe there is an issue with the component.  You need to start 
with a base line before replacing things and causing more issues with your 
shotgun approach.


BUT.  In the case of the Drake AC-x power supply bias 
capacitor I have to back off a bit, and here is why.


Gary and others can confirm that the bias supply also happens to be 
critical to the TX relay latching (or should I say anti-latching).  So 
in this one specific design, if the bias goes, you have a self destruct 
situation.  When the bias goes low or out, the relay fires, and puts the 
rig in TX with no bias on the finals.  Pure high voltage diodes going 
full bore until the plates are cherry red, and either the cathode is 
stripped, or the glass envelope implodes on the xJB6 tubes.


To each his own.  Yes I must admit that I have my AC-4 with original bias 
caps that I had been running until a few month ago.   But I have 
replacement caps ready and have been using the TR7 until I get the bias 
caps changed.  Yes I ran the rig for years knowing all this, so I too 
am guilty of not following my own advice.  I happen to have a good supply 
of 6JB6s (even some still in the box from Drake) so I am not so worried. 
Unless you have the bias issue, or don't follow the kind tune up I 
posted sometime back, they really do last quite a long time in CW and SSB 
service.


BTW thanks to all who replied to my tube operation question.  I now 
understand much more.  All were good, but I must admit that the link from 
Richard Radke http://www.john-a-harper.com/tubes201/ was the one of the 
best.


73,
Ron  WD8SBB
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Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B

2005-05-12 Thread Ron Wagner
Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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will,
Just a quick question, do you have the Q-multiplier turned on or attached? 
If so, disconnect it. I remember my first attempt to use a q-multiplier 
and what you describe sounds a lot like what I ran into.
73,
Ron


Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann

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[drakelist] OT MECI will not be at Hamfest

2005-04-10 Thread Ron Wagner
Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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I just was told by a fellow ham who was at Mendelsons Saturday morning 
that, Mendelson's will not be at Hamvention this year.  He went down to 
pick up tickets and was told they were not handling and would not be 
attending.  Anyone have the scoop?
73,
Ron

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


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Re: [drakelist] AC3 hum

2005-04-10 Thread Ron Wagner
Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Keep in mind that the hum is much worse with the AC3 inside the MS4.  I 
notice that the AC4 is much less, I guess because it has a cover.  Jsut my 
observations, nothing scientific.
73,
Ron

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Sun, 10 Apr 2005, Dick Harms PA2DW wrote:
Hi all,

I am using an AC3 in combination with my T4XC. Recently I exchanged all the
caps and I find that the transformer makes a loud hum ever since. More than
before exchanging the caps I think. Especially if I mount the PSU inside the
MS4 cabinet, it sounds like a nuclear power plant, it cannot be normal. I
measured the voltages; no ripple. The caps are all ok, no polarisation
trouble as far as I can see. Any of the wise man here has a clue?

73, Dick PA2DW

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Re: [drakelist] Noise Blanker 34-PNB: compatibility with TR-4 and TR-4C

2005-04-06 Thread Ron Wagner
Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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This is only a guess, because I owned a TR3 with a NB at one time.
The serial number in question is most likely the one that Drake started to 
put a plug in for the NB.  My TR3 had to have the thing wired and soldered 
into the rig.

I would think that within reason, it should work with all the earlier TR 
series as they were all cut from the same design.  Can not say 
specifically about the TR4C though.

73,
Ron 

Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann


On Wed, 6 Apr 2005, Bollini, Maurizio wrote:
I've got a Noise Blanker 34-PNB. A label attached says for TR4
transceivers with serial number above 31321.
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Re: [drakelist] Tr-4 problems

2005-04-04 Thread Ron Wagner
Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Is using an eraser to clean anything a good idea?  I though that most 
erasers has a sulfur in it and caused more corrosion?  Can someone set me 
straight on this?
73,
Ron


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Re: [drakelist] FS-4

2005-03-13 Thread Ron Wagner
Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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There is also an overlay in an old HR magazine.  That article had a FS4 
clone designed and build using PLL technology of the time.  That overlay 
will work well and if anyone really needs it I can get a scan (I think). 
I spoke with the author of this device some years ago, but the varac-diode 
is no longer made.  That and the new DDS technology produces some really 
good RF output.  I have had a DDS FS4 clone on my bench for some time, 
just never got around to finishing it (minor intermittent problem with 
noise on the PIC to DDS interface).  My TR7 has turned into my main rig, 
and the twins have been somewhat on the bench.  Some day I will get the 
urge again.  BTW I had no intentions of ever marketing it, but figured my 
cost for my personal project would have been about $100, complete.

73,
Ron
On Sat, 12 Mar 2005, Jim Shorney wrote:
Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 21:31:20 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:
There is a chart within the T-4X manual showing the range covered by
each bandswitch position.  They cover from 1.8 through 30 MHz with
considerable overlap.

There is a set of overlay stickers for the preselectors on my C-line,
that I was told came with an FS4. They graphically show the complete HF
tuning range and overlap between the bands. I have never seen anyone
reproducing these, and they seem to be rarely talked about. I've got a
mediocre digital pic of the one on the T4XC, but it looks like I never
got around to taking a pic of the one on the R4C. They are slightly
different.
--
Jim Shorney  --.--Put complaints in this box
jshorney (at) inebraska.com
nu0c (at) amsat.org
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, NE, USA
EN10ps
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/
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