Re: [MBZ] He smoked some okie meth

2015-06-05 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
It does look nice.  Love the color.

Dan


 On Jun 4, 2015, at 8:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 If you are trying to sell a car like this for this much at least put more 
 than 2 photos.
 
 1976 Mercedes
 http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/5058359788.html
 
 via cPro Craigslist App
 iOS: http://tinyurl.com/CL-iDevice
 Android: http://tinyurl.com/CL-Android
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Hey Kleb - Here's the S600 You Missed!!!

2015-06-05 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
BZZZT. Wrong.

If you read the post, the MAFs have been replaced.  The only real issue he’s 
got is a possible bad wheel sensor.

It’s possible there is a bad wiring harness, but I’m willing to bet it’s been 
replaced.  Sounds like someone was driving it, had issues, had them fixed but 
didn’t get the codes cleared.

It’s in limp-home due to the bad wheel sensor.

Remember, he only paid $1500 for the car.  He’s got several thousand to go 
before he hits the value of the car.  As long as he does the work himself, he’s 
going to end up with a pretty nice car for minimal $$.  If anything drains his 
wallet, it will be the cost of fuel.

Dan


 On Jun 4, 2015, at 8:54 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 You were lucky to dodge THAT bullet.  What a nightmare's list of honey-doos.
 
 On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:41 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Yea that's got to be it, sure was not as described to me by the seller,
 who said there were no warning or check engine lights on when I asked. It
 sounds like it's probably going to need a wiring harness and both the
 throttle actuator things replaced, the cost of the parts alone is well over
 the purchase price of the car. Still sort of wish I had not screwed around
 and missed it. Oh well.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jun 4, 2015, at 7:31 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 
 http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2373409-s600-1995-new-owner.html#post12184921
 
 I’m pretty sure this is it.
 
 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Hey Kleb - Here's the S600 You Missed!!!

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
I see that now, there is the possibility they were replaced with cheap rebuilds 
that have already failed. In any case I blew it and should have gone down there 
and got it.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 4:43 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 BZZZT. Wrong.
 
 If you read the post, the MAFs have been replaced.  The only real issue he’s 
 got is a possible bad wheel sensor.
 
 It’s possible there is a bad wiring harness, but I’m willing to bet it’s been 
 replaced.  Sounds like someone was driving it, had issues, had them fixed but 
 didn’t get the codes cleared.
 
 It’s in limp-home due to the bad wheel sensor.
 
 Remember, he only paid $1500 for the car.  He’s got several thousand to go 
 before he hits the value of the car.  As long as he does the work himself, 
 he’s going to end up with a pretty nice car for minimal $$.  If anything 
 drains his wallet, it will be the cost of fuel.
 
 Dan
 
 
 On Jun 4, 2015, at 8:54 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 You were lucky to dodge THAT bullet.  What a nightmare's list of honey-doos.
 
 On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:41 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Yea that's got to be it, sure was not as described to me by the seller,
 who said there were no warning or check engine lights on when I asked. It
 sounds like it's probably going to need a wiring harness and both the
 throttle actuator things replaced, the cost of the parts alone is well over
 the purchase price of the car. Still sort of wish I had not screwed around
 and missed it. Oh well.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jun 4, 2015, at 7:31 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2373409-s600-1995-new-owner.html#post12184921
 
 I’m pretty sure this is it.
 
 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] License Plate Holder

2015-06-05 Thread MG via Mercedes

I will look there also.

Manfred



Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2015 20:31:50 -0500
From: Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com


I tried to buy the front bumper bracket to hold a euro license 
plate. Was told that MB would not send them over here. The dealer's 
service dept had tried to get one a couple of years ago when one of 
the mechanics damaged one on a customer's car, even there MB would 
not send a replacement. What a great company.


Manfred


MomBUSA has a heavy hand and wears a bow tie.

Try fleabay.de or a euro MB forum.  Alex may have some pointers for 
sourrces.  You could try Hendrik or John or Davidie in OZ also.




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[MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread clay via Mercedes
I hit the HF tool sale and got myself a low end gasless MIG welder to learn on. 
 Wire feed and the cheapo auto darkening mask.  I read the instructions to see 
what this thing can do.  Those instructions are big on safety, but not on 
actually how to run the rig.

I went to the hardware store to get a hardi panel so I could have a welding 
table.  There were too many metal or wooden tables for me to use, but the 
manual was pretty adamant that I have concrete to set things on.  So far it 
works fairly well.  

I have a few old computer cases that donated their covers for the day I am 
versed in welding enough to repair the floors in the 300D.  Today, I learned 
that I need a hat to keep the slag from jumping onto the back of my head.  I 
could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was getting a bunch of 
blow through.  I moved up to old brake rotors and was able to get a decent 
enough bead, but it still looks like crap.   Sun was out and after 40 minutes 
or getting a hang for the machine, I had to head inside.  

I will be looking for a better set of welding wear so I can keep from setting 
myself on fire.


clay 

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately  well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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Re: [MBZ] Another Car for Mao --Change to: License Plate Holder

2015-06-05 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
That's the only reason I can think of where they might refuse to supply a part 
to a particular area.  They're pretty harsh about that one and there is no way 
to get around it that know of.

However, I did like the idea of sourcing the part off of eBay Germany or some 
other country that uses the same type of license plates.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 12:16 PM, MG via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Let me try and find the number again. As you say it may be in that regional 
 security group because it's to hold the license plate.
 
 Manfred
 
 
 Date: Thu, 04 Jun 2015 20:29:23 -0400
 From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com
 Dealer dookie.  They have to make a special request for it, like any 
 non-North American part, which they can do as a list or individual part.  My 
 dealer did it several times for me.
 As a matter of fact, they?re doing it right now.
 My R129 (1997 SL500) has a very expensive and poorly engineered interior 
 rear view mirror.  Along with all the fancy (and now worthless) electronics 
 in it, such as a programmable garage door opener, it has two very strong 
 springs that hold the ball in the socket that the mirror swivels on.  These 
 springs are so powerful that over time they stress the plastic cover to the 
 point where the plastic tangs that anchor the ends of the springs break, 
 relieving the spring pressure, allowing the mirror to swing wildly on the 
 ball because there is no longer any resistance being applied to it.  There 
 is no kludge for this, the mirror is now totally worthless (as a mirror.)
 Here?s the kicker:  MY price is almost $1,000.00.  Yes, that?s MY price, 
 which is wholesale.
 But - there?s a workaround:
 The only place they used this stupidly expensive and poorly engineered rear 
 view mirror was - you guessed it - the good old US of A.  What did they use 
 in the rest of the world?  A similar mirror that was more robust and had 
 none of the electronics in it.
 My cost:  $245.00.
 I identified the part, went to my dealer, they placed the order and I expect 
 it to be here from Germany early next week.  No questions, no problem.
 Give me the license plate frame part number and I?ll bet I can get one.  The 
 only possibility where they would potentially deny it would be if it?s 
 considered a regional safety item, that is, an option that?s in the safety 
 and security groups for a specific country or part of the world.
 Dan
 
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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes


Nomex underwear is required for the racetrack anyway so you may as well 
get it now!


RB

On 05/06/2015 1:28 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:

I hit the HF tool sale and got myself a low end gasless MIG welder to learn on. 
 Wire feed and the cheapo auto darkening mask.  I read the instructions to see 
what this thing can do.  Those instructions are big on safety, but not on 
actually how to run the rig.

I went to the hardware store to get a hardi panel so I could have a welding 
table.  There were too many metal or wooden tables for me to use, but the 
manual was pretty adamant that I have concrete to set things on.  So far it 
works fairly well.

I have a few old computer cases that donated their covers for the day I am 
versed in welding enough to repair the floors in the 300D.  Today, I learned 
that I need a hat to keep the slag from jumping onto the back of my head.  I 
could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was getting a bunch of 
blow through.  I moved up to old brake rotors and was able to get a decent 
enough bead, but it still looks like crap.   Sun was out and after 40 minutes 
or getting a hang for the machine, I had to head inside.

I will be looking for a better set of welding wear so I can keep from setting 
myself on fire.


clay

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately  well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Gerry Archer via Mercedes
Didn't someone (Curt?) say tht HF wire was no good and we must buy good wire 
from a regular welding supply dealer? 
Also, he should be sure pants legs go down over shoe or boot tops. A drop of 
liquid steel down in the shoe is a common event that can cause wild dancing and 
serious burns. Don't ask me how I know.
Gerry

Randy Bennell wrote:

 
 Nomex underwear is required for the racetrack anyway so you may as well 
 get it now!
 
 RB
 
 On 05/06/2015 1:28 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
  I hit the HF tool sale and got myself a low end gasless MIG welder to learn 
  on.  Wire feed and the cheapo auto darkening mask.  I read the instructions 
  to see what this thing can do.  Those instructions are big on safety, but 
  not on actually how to run the rig.
 
  I went to the hardware store to get a hardi panel so I could have a welding 
  table.  There were too many metal or wooden tables for me to use, but the 
  manual was pretty adamant that I have concrete to set things on.  So far it 
  works fairly well.
 
  I have a few old computer cases that donated their covers for the day I am 
  versed in welding enough to repair the floors in the 300D.  Today, I 
  learned that I need a hat to keep the slag from jumping onto the back of my 
  head.  I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was getting 
  a bunch of blow through.  I moved up to old brake rotors and was able to 
  get a decent enough bead, but it still looks like crap.   Sun was out and 
  after 40 minutes or getting a hang for the machine, I had to head inside.
 
  I will be looking for a better set of welding wear so I can keep from 
  setting myself on fire.
 
 
  clay
 
  2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately  well tailored chap
  1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
  1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
  1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
  1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
  POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
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-- 
Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com

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[MBZ] This has got to be a scam

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes


2003 Mercedes-Benz E320
http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/5050457304.html

via cPro Craigslist App
iOS: http://tinyurl.com/CL-iDevice
Android: http://tinyurl.com/CL-Android


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Welcome to the cult of vulcan.

Put the hat on backwards, getto style to keep sparks from flying down your
collar. Wear welders gloves with long cuffs, and wear at least a denium
jacket to protect yourself from slag and UV flash.

You can get badly sunburned while welding if your skin is exposed. Eyes can
be sunburned as well.. doing perm damage if bad enough.

If you are getting burn through, your heat setting is to high, and your
wire feed speed is to low, and perhaps your pass speed is to slow.

Look for the weld puddle, color and size, that is where the actual weld
happens. Think of it as pouring liquid metal into the crack and moving the
pour along the crack seam. Stay to long with to much heat, and not enouch
metal, it pours through the crack.

Practice, practice, practice.. use scrap and learn. For sheet metal patch
repair.. a lap joint will serve you better than a butt weld. I use 1/4 inch
punch holes in the repair piece edge, 1/16th inch clecos to clamp the piece
in place at every other hole, then do a spot weld at the 1/4 inch punch
hole, pull the clecos one or two at a time and weld the rest of the panel
in place. Hammer and dolly to flatten the panel edges into the base metal.
Space the spot welds as you see fit.  If you feel you need more weld than
the spot welds, then weld the seam with the repair panel now held in place
by the spots. Makes the work much easier and quicker.

Cardboard will be your friend to make patterns for the repair panels. Cut
out the bad portions, use round corners, I like to use a baby food can to
make corners in a repair panel.. sharp 90 degree corners will always crack
out and are hard to hold in place. Hold the cardboard in place from the
bottom and mark the hole with a sharpie, then add 1/2 inch at the edge for
a lap joint all the way around.

Harbor Freight sells a nifty tool that will make a joggle offset for a
lapjoint.. it is a double duty tool because one side makes the joggle
offset, the other side punches 1/4 inch holes for spot welds.. it runs on
air, so you need an air compressor.. a small one will work good enough.

Measure twice, cut once, then hammer form the patch to fit the hole repair.
When it's just right, the lap joint lip will let you set the panel in place
from the inside, and it will lay in place supported by the lap joint
overlap. You will likely need to then do some more hammer and dolly work to
make the lap lay flat against the original panel. When it's all fitted
THEN use the joggle feature around the edge of the patch panel and trial
fit again. Once you are happy with that, while it's laying in place, use
your sharpie again to layout the spot welds and punch the 1/4 in holes in
the patch panel. Lay it back in place and put your sharpie to work again by
making a dot in the center of each of those 1/4 in holes to drill holes for
the Clecos clamps.

THEN.. clamp the New panel in place for welding. Spot welding with a wire
feed gun is simple.. aim the wire at the center of the spot, drop hood,
pull trigger, make a small circle to pour liquid metal into the hole
[visual image here] and back off to let it cool. Move to next hole.  What
you are doing, is putting a 1/4 inch bolt in each hole, in effect.

I like to work the panel repair from side to side so the weld doesn't draw
the panel out of position.. tack one side.. then the other.. to work around
the whole contact area.  Then pull the CLecos and do the same with those
holes.. don't worry, the weld will fill the 1/16 cleco hole just fine..

Keep a hammer and dolly handy to flatten the welds while they are still
cooling after each weld. it will give a much nicer finish.. ie.. weld,
hammer, weld, hammer.. etc etc etc..

When you have had enough fun..you should replenish your lost body fluids
with the adult beverage of choice... ;))

Hope this helps,

Grant...
On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 11:28 AM, clay via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 I hit the HF tool sale and got myself a low end gasless MIG welder to
 learn on.  Wire feed and the cheapo auto darkening mask.  I read the
 instructions to see what this thing can do.  Those instructions are big on
 safety, but not on actually how to run the rig.

 I went to the hardware store to get a hardi panel so I could have a
 welding table.  There were too many metal or wooden tables for me to use,
 but the manual was pretty adamant that I have concrete to set things on.
 So far it works fairly well.

 I have a few old computer cases that donated their covers for the day I am
 versed in welding enough to repair the floors in the 300D.  Today, I
 learned that I need a hat to keep the slag from jumping onto the back of my
 head.  I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was getting
 a bunch of blow through.  I moved up to old brake rotors and was able to
 get a decent enough bead, but it still looks like crap.   Sun was out and
 after 40 minutes or getting a hang for the machine, I had to head inside.

 I will be looking for a better set 

Re: [MBZ] Another Car for Mao --Change to: License Plate Holder

2015-06-05 Thread MG via Mercedes
Let me try and find the number again. As you say it may be in 
that regional security group because it's to hold the license plate.


Manfred



Date: Thu, 04 Jun 2015 20:29:23 -0400
From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com

Dealer dookie.  They have to make a special request for it, like any non-North 
American part, which they can do as a list or individual part.  My dealer did 
it several times for me.

As a matter of fact, they?re doing it right now.

My R129 (1997 SL500) has a very expensive and poorly engineered interior rear 
view mirror.  Along with all the fancy (and now worthless) electronics in it, 
such as a programmable garage door opener, it has two very strong springs that 
hold the ball in the socket that the mirror swivels on.  These springs are so 
powerful that over time they stress the plastic cover to the point where the 
plastic tangs that anchor the ends of the springs break, relieving the spring 
pressure, allowing the mirror to swing wildly on the ball because there is no 
longer any resistance being applied to it.  There is no kludge for this, the 
mirror is now totally worthless (as a mirror.)

Here?s the kicker:  MY price is almost $1,000.00.  Yes, that?s MY price, which 
is wholesale.

But - there?s a workaround:

The only place they used this stupidly expensive and poorly engineered rear 
view mirror was - you guessed it - the good old US of A.  What did they use in 
the rest of the world?  A similar mirror that was more robust and had none of 
the electronics in it.

My cost:  $245.00.

I identified the part, went to my dealer, they placed the order and I expect it 
to be here from Germany early next week.  No questions, no problem.

Give me the license plate frame part number and I?ll bet I can get one.  The 
only possibility where they would potentially deny it would be if it?s 
considered a regional safety item, that is, an option that?s in the safety and 
security groups for a specific country or part of the world.

Dan



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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 clay wrote:
 
 I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was
 getting a bunch of blow through.

Thin sheet metal and gasless wirefeed is pretty tough.  Set
the wire feed and amperage low.  And get some good wire.  The
HF wire is junk.  


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[MBZ] S430/W220 Fleece Filter - ???

2015-06-05 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
OK, so this is the first one of these fleece filters I’ve ever used.  I see the 
little graphic with the filter about how it’s supposed to be positioned on the 
long plastic tube, but what in the heck are all the “O” rings for that come 
with it??

I’m sure t will make sense when I pull the old one out, but I want to be sure….

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread clay via Mercedes
The wire is garbage, but it came free with the welder. May as well burn through 
it.

setting up feed speed is hit and miss for now.  It does not want to feed as 
slowly as the graph inside says I need it.  There are two amperage speeds.  
Lots and not that much.  I could not get much speed or heat to get a good bead

clay

On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:12 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:

 clay wrote:
 
 I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was
 getting a bunch of blow through.
 
 Thin sheet metal and gasless wirefeed is pretty tough.  Set
 the wire feed and amperage low.  And get some good wire.  The
 HF wire is junk.  
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread clay via Mercedes
I am headed to the Goodwill outlet store to see what non-fashionable items I 
can repurpose to welding wear.  The clothing sells by the pound.  I found all 
manner of good stuff there for hunting and should come across busted leathers 
or other fire resistant items.  

I picked up some really nice welding gloves a few months ago.  Long neck and 
smooth fingers.  Nomex interior.  The auto dark mask I got does not provide 
coverage between the front of the skull and the face shield.  Bright sunshine 
glowing off my forehead sort of defeats the ability to see the bead being 
formed.  Maybe I can get a clorox bottle riveted to the top




clay 

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately  well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








On Jun 5, 2015, at 12:22 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:

 My brother-in-law had the hot slag in the boot issue one time. Just putting 
 the pantleg over the boot does not prevent the problem if the slag burns 
 through the pantleg which is what happened with him.
 Either lace up the top of the boot so it cannot get into the boot or else 
 loosen the boot so that you can easily kick it off.
 
 He was welding an exhaust under a car on a hoist and he is quite tall so he 
 was bent a bit at the knees. The slag dropped onto his leg, burned a hole 
 through his pants and then fell into his boot top. He of course, shook his 
 let and the slag went deeper into his boot and burned his foot before he 
 could get his boot off. He was off work for several days. He learned a good 
 lesson as that must be close to 20 years ago and he has not had it happen 
 since that I know of.
 
 RB
 
 On 05/06/2015 2:10 PM, Gerry Archer via Mercedes wrote:
 Didn't someone (Curt?) say tht HF wire was no good and we must buy good wire 
 from a regular welding supply dealer?
 Also, he should be sure pants legs go down over shoe or boot tops. A drop of 
 liquid steel down in the shoe is a common event that can cause wild dancing 
 and serious burns. Don't ask me how I know.
 Gerry
 
 Randy Bennell wrote:
 
 Nomex underwear is required for the racetrack anyway so you may as well
 get it now!
 
 RB
 
 On 05/06/2015 1:28 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
 I hit the HF tool sale and got myself a low end gasless MIG welder to 
 learn on.  Wire feed and the cheapo auto darkening mask.  I read the 
 instructions to see what this thing can do.  Those instructions are big on 
 safety, but not on actually how to run the rig.
 
 I went to the hardware store to get a hardi panel so I could have a 
 welding table.  There were too many metal or wooden tables for me to use, 
 but the manual was pretty adamant that I have concrete to set things on.  
 So far it works fairly well.
 
 I have a few old computer cases that donated their covers for the day I am 
 versed in welding enough to repair the floors in the 300D.  Today, I 
 learned that I need a hat to keep the slag from jumping onto the back of 
 my head.  I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was 
 getting a bunch of blow through.  I moved up to old brake rotors and was 
 able to get a decent enough bead, but it still looks like crap.   Sun was 
 out and after 40 minutes or getting a hang for the machine, I had to head 
 inside.
 
 I will be looking for a better set of welding wear so I can keep from 
 setting myself on fire.
 
 
 clay
 
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes
My brother-in-law had the hot slag in the boot issue one time. Just 
putting the pantleg over the boot does not prevent the problem if the 
slag burns through the pantleg which is what happened with him.
Either lace up the top of the boot so it cannot get into the boot or 
else loosen the boot so that you can easily kick it off.


He was welding an exhaust under a car on a hoist and he is quite tall so 
he was bent a bit at the knees. The slag dropped onto his leg, burned a 
hole through his pants and then fell into his boot top. He of course, 
shook his let and the slag went deeper into his boot and burned his foot 
before he could get his boot off. He was off work for several days. He 
learned a good lesson as that must be close to 20 years ago and he has 
not had it happen since that I know of.


RB

On 05/06/2015 2:10 PM, Gerry Archer via Mercedes wrote:

Didn't someone (Curt?) say tht HF wire was no good and we must buy good wire 
from a regular welding supply dealer?
Also, he should be sure pants legs go down over shoe or boot tops. A drop of 
liquid steel down in the shoe is a common event that can cause wild dancing and 
serious burns. Don't ask me how I know.
Gerry

Randy Bennell wrote:


Nomex underwear is required for the racetrack anyway so you may as well
get it now!

RB

On 05/06/2015 1:28 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:

I hit the HF tool sale and got myself a low end gasless MIG welder to learn on. 
 Wire feed and the cheapo auto darkening mask.  I read the instructions to see 
what this thing can do.  Those instructions are big on safety, but not on 
actually how to run the rig.

I went to the hardware store to get a hardi panel so I could have a welding 
table.  There were too many metal or wooden tables for me to use, but the 
manual was pretty adamant that I have concrete to set things on.  So far it 
works fairly well.

I have a few old computer cases that donated their covers for the day I am 
versed in welding enough to repair the floors in the 300D.  Today, I learned 
that I need a hat to keep the slag from jumping onto the back of my head.  I 
could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was getting a bunch of 
blow through.  I moved up to old brake rotors and was able to get a decent 
enough bead, but it still looks like crap.   Sun was out and after 40 minutes 
or getting a hang for the machine, I had to head inside.

I will be looking for a better set of welding wear so I can keep from setting 
myself on fire.


clay





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Re: [MBZ] S500 Mystery

2015-06-05 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
Dan writes:

see if I can find the plan for a DIY smoke tester - this is something that 
is a big help and could use occasionally.‎
‎
‎
You are working on a Mercedes, correct? 

I thought the smoke detector was used exclusively on Lucas electrical parts. 
Although, it is usually quite obvious where the smoke is leaking on those...
‎
http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm

Scroll to the bottom of this one...
http://gtr1000.yuku.com/topic/4957

Rick 
Sent from my BlackBerry Z10

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[MBZ] Microsoft Mysteries

2015-06-05 Thread Gerry Archer via Mercedes

Tried to sign into Microsoft. It rejected my address because it contained the 
symbol @ . How an address can written without using @ (at) is a mystery. It's 
enough to drive a person to Linux.
(end of rant)
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] S430/W220 Fleece Filter - ???

2015-06-05 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

OK, so this is the first one of these fleece filters I’ve ever used.  I see the 
little graphic with the filter about how it’s supposed to be positioned on the 
long plastic tube, but what in the heck are all the “O” rings for that come 
with it??

I’m sure t will make sense when I pull the old one out, but I want to be sure….


I'm sure it's just like the V6 version, the lid has a giant tapered plastic 
spike on it, like a plastic tent stake. I forget how many o-rings are on that 
spike, but you'll use most if not all that come with the filter.


The biggest one goes on the cap to keep the oil inside the engine, one or two 
littlest ones seal the bottom of the spike like the o-ring on a OM617 filter 
rod, the mid sized ones go more or less where the filter ends are.


Make note where the old filter is on the spike, lube up the new one and make 
sure it's shoved in as much as the old one was.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
Didn't someone (Curt?) say tht HF wire was no good and we must buy 
good wire from a regular welding supply dealer?
Also, he should be sure pants legs go down over shoe or boot tops. A 
drop of liquid steel down in the shoe is a common event that can 
cause wild dancing and serious burns. Don't ask me how I know.

Gerry


Good point, but my jeans and bibs are long enough to touch the 
LEATHER shoe/boot.  You don't want plastic shoes either...


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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
The only time welders wear pants with a cuff is the first day on the job.

Any questions?  haha..

Wire feed welders should not make a lot of slag if set correctly. If it is
a flux core wire welder, it will make slag, if it is a gas envelope welder,
hardly any sparks.. much nicer welds also. Worth the extra money in my
opinion.

Key element is getting the wire speed and heat setting correct for the
thickness of metal you are welding.. play with them until you can lay down
a nice even weld with good penetration but no burn through. Speed of the
weld pass is the human factor that has to come with practice.

On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 12:22 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 My brother-in-law had the hot slag in the boot issue one time. Just
 putting the pantleg over the boot does not prevent the problem if the slag
 burns through the pantleg which is what happened with him.
 Either lace up the top of the boot so it cannot get into the boot or else
 loosen the boot so that you can easily kick it off.

 He was welding an exhaust under a car on a hoist and he is quite tall so
 he was bent a bit at the knees. The slag dropped onto his leg, burned a
 hole through his pants and then fell into his boot top. He of course, shook
 his let and the slag went deeper into his boot and burned his foot before
 he could get his boot off. He was off work for several days. He learned a
 good lesson as that must be close to 20 years ago and he has not had it
 happen since that I know of.

 RB

 On 05/06/2015 2:10 PM, Gerry Archer via Mercedes wrote:

 Didn't someone (Curt?) say tht HF wire was no good and we must buy good
 wire from a regular welding supply dealer?
 Also, he should be sure pants legs go down over shoe or boot tops. A drop
 of liquid steel down in the shoe is a common event that can cause wild
 dancing and serious burns. Don't ask me how I know.
 Gerry

 Randy Bennell wrote:

  Nomex underwear is required for the racetrack anyway so you may as well
 get it now!

 RB

 On 05/06/2015 1:28 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:

 I hit the HF tool sale and got myself a low end gasless MIG welder to
 learn on.  Wire feed and the cheapo auto darkening mask.  I read the
 instructions to see what this thing can do.  Those instructions are big on
 safety, but not on actually how to run the rig.

 I went to the hardware store to get a hardi panel so I could have a
 welding table.  There were too many metal or wooden tables for me to use,
 but the manual was pretty adamant that I have concrete to set things on.
 So far it works fairly well.

 I have a few old computer cases that donated their covers for the day I
 am versed in welding enough to repair the floors in the 300D.  Today, I
 learned that I need a hat to keep the slag from jumping onto the back of my
 head.  I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was getting
 a bunch of blow through.  I moved up to old brake rotors and was able to
 get a decent enough bead, but it still looks like crap.   Sun was out and
 after 40 minutes or getting a hang for the machine, I had to head inside.

 I will be looking for a better set of welding wear so I can keep from
 setting myself on fire.


 clay




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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes



I will be looking for a better set of welding wear so I can keep 
from setting myself on fire.


clay


Cotton.  No synthetics.

I often weld in a tshirt and jeans.  Nothing special.  A long sleeve 
Wrangler cotton  denim shirt is good too, if it is cool enough.  mine 
has no holes in it, but I don't weld much anymore.  I sold my John 
Deere stick welder on fleaby because i figured out I'll never have 
enough money to collect John Deeres.  got a little century FCAW 
welder to weld sheet metal.


I never wear a cap unless I am trying to weld overhead, and I try to 
avoid that.


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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread clay via Mercedes
I am going to play with this thing all next week.  I figured the HF garbage 
flux core welder would be less expensive than a class with 30 other monkeys.  
If I get a really good handle on welding, then I would find a real welder at a 
pawn shop.  Doing the floor pan repairs on the HF unit will probably kill it.  
Making the roll cage would require something by Lincoln.

clay

On Jun 5, 2015, at 12:32 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

 The only time welders wear pants with a cuff is the first day on the job.
 
 Any questions?  haha..
 
 Wire feed welders should not make a lot of slag if set correctly. If it is
 a flux core wire welder, it will make slag, if it is a gas envelope welder,
 hardly any sparks.. much nicer welds also. Worth the extra money in my
 opinion.
 
 Key element is getting the wire speed and heat setting correct for the
 thickness of metal you are welding.. play with them until you can lay down
 a nice even weld with good penetration but no burn through. Speed of the
 weld pass is the human factor that has to come with practice.
 
 On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 12:22 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 My brother-in-law had the hot slag in the boot issue one time. Just
 putting the pantleg over the boot does not prevent the problem if the slag
 burns through the pantleg which is what happened with him.
 Either lace up the top of the boot so it cannot get into the boot or else
 loosen the boot so that you can easily kick it off.
 
 He was welding an exhaust under a car on a hoist and he is quite tall so
 he was bent a bit at the knees. The slag dropped onto his leg, burned a
 hole through his pants and then fell into his boot top. He of course, shook
 his let and the slag went deeper into his boot and burned his foot before
 he could get his boot off. He was off work for several days. He learned a
 good lesson as that must be close to 20 years ago and he has not had it
 happen since that I know of.
 
 RB
 
 On 05/06/2015 2:10 PM, Gerry Archer via Mercedes wrote:
 
 Didn't someone (Curt?) say tht HF wire was no good and we must buy good
 wire from a regular welding supply dealer?
 Also, he should be sure pants legs go down over shoe or boot tops. A drop
 of liquid steel down in the shoe is a common event that can cause wild
 dancing and serious burns. Don't ask me how I know.
 Gerry
 
 Randy Bennell wrote:
 
 Nomex underwear is required for the racetrack anyway so you may as well
 get it now!
 
 RB
 
 On 05/06/2015 1:28 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
 
 I hit the HF tool sale and got myself a low end gasless MIG welder to
 learn on.  Wire feed and the cheapo auto darkening mask.  I read the
 instructions to see what this thing can do.  Those instructions are big on
 safety, but not on actually how to run the rig.
 
 I went to the hardware store to get a hardi panel so I could have a
 welding table.  There were too many metal or wooden tables for me to use,
 but the manual was pretty adamant that I have concrete to set things on.
 So far it works fairly well.
 
 I have a few old computer cases that donated their covers for the day I
 am versed in welding enough to repair the floors in the 300D.  Today, I
 learned that I need a hat to keep the slag from jumping onto the back of 
 my
 head.  I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was 
 getting
 a bunch of blow through.  I moved up to old brake rotors and was able to
 get a decent enough bead, but it still looks like crap.   Sun was out and
 after 40 minutes or getting a hang for the machine, I had to head inside.
 
 I will be looking for a better set of welding wear so I can keep from
 setting myself on fire.
 
 
 clay
 
 
 
 
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[MBZ] S500 Mystery

2015-06-05 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Got the car back from the trusted indie shop.  They spent two hours of 
diagnostic time on it and found that the MAF is probably bad and there are a 
number of vacuum leaks in all of the lines that run across the top of the 
engine and probably the boot at the bottom of the MAF.

This is good news, as we know the wiring harness is good and they confirmed 
that.

I just happen to have a spare MAF that someone gave me for free for the S420, 
and even better, it’s the SAME part on the S500.  Woo-hoo!!

The car comes home tonight, after which I’ll survey the vacuum lines and elbows 
that have to be replaced and make a parts list for my dealer parts guy on 
Monday. I’ll have him VOR (overnight) the parts so we have them on Tuesday and 
Tuesday night we’ll reassemble everything and get the boy back in his beloved 
car.

I knew the vacuum fittings on the top of the engine were getting hard and 
brittle as they’re known to do, but I didn’t think any of them were leaking 
yet.  I’m going to dig around on the internet and see if I can find the plan 
for a DIY smoke tester - this is something that is a big help and could use 
occasionally.

More as I know it….

Dan
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[MBZ] OT another sort of metal working question

2015-06-05 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes
I got myself into a project that I should have walked away from but 
since I am into it, I am not giving it up.
I did offer it up for sale or trade but no one came looking so maybe 
they were smarter than me. Time will tell.
I bought, for little money, an antique woodworking multi-machine. It had 
a 12 table saw intending mostly for ripping, an 8 jointer and a 22 
band saw in one machine.

It is old enough to be flat belt so pretty old.
I decided that the band saw was the only desirable part so I dismantled 
it to the point where I have only the band saw left on the frame.
I then wanted to cut the frame down to a smaller size. If my memory is 
reasonably accurate, the frame will end up about 24 square.
The frame has 2 cast end frames and pipes that join the two ends. The 
pipes go through holes in the end frames. They are held in place by set 
screws in the end frames and by lead melted in to the frame to fill any 
voids around the pipe.
I melted the lead out of the holes on the one frame with a propane torch 
so that I could remove the one end frame. Then cut the pipes down by a 
foot or more to make a more compact frame unit.
There are 4 pipes through the end frame sides and 2 angle iron pieces on 
the top.

My issue now, is that I want to refill the voids with melted lead.
I tipped the unit on end so that the parts I wanted to melt into were down.
I clamped a piece of plywood on the end of the one spot and melted 
solder into the gap between the pipe and the frame. Not a large gap. 
Probably 1/8th at the widest.
Unfortunately, it did not work out well.  I need some means of plugging 
the end better. The plywood did not fit tight to the pipe end - only to 
the frame end. The solder went into the end of the pipe and when it had 
burned the plywood enough to make a hole, flowed out. I ended up with a 
bit of a lead plug that fell out of the end of the pipe when I removed 
the plywood.
I can use a piece of steel in place of the plywood so that it will not 
burn through but I need some means of plugging the end of the pipe so 
that the solder will just fill the void around the pipe.


Any great ideas?
Muffler cement??

RB


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Re: [MBZ] OT another sort of metal working question

2015-06-05 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Clay will work. It's what the old plumbers used to use back in the day. You
pack the joint from one end with clay, run lead with tin content to make it
stick to the cast steel, then chip the clay out and run the back side with
lead with tin. you then have a complete joint.

Take care using to much heat, the old guys used a blow torch to do the
work and temps were likely lower than modern propane torches.

On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 12:44 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I got myself into a project that I should have walked away from but since
 I am into it, I am not giving it up.
 I did offer it up for sale or trade but no one came looking so maybe they
 were smarter than me. Time will tell.
 I bought, for little money, an antique woodworking multi-machine. It had a
 12 table saw intending mostly for ripping, an 8 jointer and a 22 band
 saw in one machine.
 It is old enough to be flat belt so pretty old.
 I decided that the band saw was the only desirable part so I dismantled it
 to the point where I have only the band saw left on the frame.
 I then wanted to cut the frame down to a smaller size. If my memory is
 reasonably accurate, the frame will end up about 24 square.
 The frame has 2 cast end frames and pipes that join the two ends. The
 pipes go through holes in the end frames. They are held in place by set
 screws in the end frames and by lead melted in to the frame to fill any
 voids around the pipe.
 I melted the lead out of the holes on the one frame with a propane torch
 so that I could remove the one end frame. Then cut the pipes down by a foot
 or more to make a more compact frame unit.
 There are 4 pipes through the end frame sides and 2 angle iron pieces on
 the top.
 My issue now, is that I want to refill the voids with melted lead.
 I tipped the unit on end so that the parts I wanted to melt into were down.
 I clamped a piece of plywood on the end of the one spot and melted solder
 into the gap between the pipe and the frame. Not a large gap. Probably
 1/8th at the widest.
 Unfortunately, it did not work out well.  I need some means of plugging
 the end better. The plywood did not fit tight to the pipe end - only to the
 frame end. The solder went into the end of the pipe and when it had burned
 the plywood enough to make a hole, flowed out. I ended up with a bit of a
 lead plug that fell out of the end of the pipe when I removed the plywood.
 I can use a piece of steel in place of the plywood so that it will not
 burn through but I need some means of plugging the end of the pipe so that
 the solder will just fill the void around the pipe.

 Any great ideas?
 Muffler cement??

 RB


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Re: [MBZ] S500 Mystery

2015-06-05 Thread Rich Thomas via Mercedes
Titanium tetrachloride makes smoke as it evaporates.  We used it in the 
wind tunnels to visualize flow.  We'd dip a swab into some and stick it 
in the airflow and as it evaporated it made white smoke, easily seen.  
It lasted a while.  Not sure where you get it now, I guess the webs 
would be your friend.


--R



On 6/5/15 5:25 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Got the car back from the trusted indie shop.  They spent two hours of 
diagnostic time on it and found that the MAF is probably bad and there are a 
number of vacuum leaks in all of the lines that run across the top of the 
engine and probably the boot at the bottom of the MAF.

This is good news, as we know the wiring harness is good and they confirmed 
that.

I just happen to have a spare MAF that someone gave me for free for the S420, 
and even better, it’s the SAME part on the S500.  Woo-hoo!!

The car comes home tonight, after which I’ll survey the vacuum lines and elbows 
that have to be replaced and make a parts list for my dealer parts guy on 
Monday. I’ll have him VOR (overnight) the parts so we have them on Tuesday and 
Tuesday night we’ll reassemble everything and get the boy back in his beloved 
car.

I knew the vacuum fittings on the top of the engine were getting hard and 
brittle as they’re known to do, but I didn’t think any of them were leaking 
yet.  I’m going to dig around on the internet and see if I can find the plan 
for a DIY smoke tester - this is something that is a big help and could use 
occasionally.

More as I know it….

Dan
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[MBZ] Kaleb!! - a Match for your Euro W126!

2015-06-05 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Just find the keys!

http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5060434994.html

Dan

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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Dimitri via Mercedes
Unless you use shielding gas you will be unhappy with your results. I promise!

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 4:33 PM, clay via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 The wire is garbage, but it came free with the welder. May as well burn 
 through it.
 
 setting up feed speed is hit and miss for now.  It does not want to feed as 
 slowly as the graph inside says I need it.  There are two amperage speeds.  
 Lots and not that much.  I could not get much speed or heat to get a good bead
 
 clay
 
 On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:12 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:
 
 clay wrote:
 
 I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was
 getting a bunch of blow through.
 
 Thin sheet metal and gasless wirefeed is pretty tough.  Set
 the wire feed and amperage low.  And get some good wire.  The
 HF wire is junk.  
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] S500 Mystery/vacuum leaks

2015-06-05 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
My favorite indie uses a water hose to find 
vacuum leaks.  Simple.  You spray water around 
until the engine runs faster.  sealing the leak 
with water makes the mixture richer, so the 
engine runs faster.


I could not believe it.  I did not want to hose 
water around the coil , distributor etc, but it 
works.  He found lots of M116 leaks after I fixed 
the easy ones first with his method.





I knew the vacuum fittings on the top of the 
engine were getting hard and brittle as they're 
known to do, but I didn't think any of them were 
leaking yet.  I'm going to dig around on the 
internet and see if I can find the plan for a 
DIY smoke tester - this is something that is a 
big help and could use occasionally.


More as I know itŠ.

Dan


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Re: [MBZ] Microsoft Mysteries

2015-06-05 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
Tried to sign into Microsoft. It rejected my address because it 
contained the symbol @ . How an address can written without using @ 
(at) is a mystery. It's enough to drive a person to Linux.

(end of rant)
Gerry


I had a linux VM webserver/email server that insisted you replace @ 
with a dash.  It was weird.


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Re: [MBZ] OT another sort of metal working question

2015-06-05 Thread Dimitri via Mercedes
Jb weld?

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 3:44 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 I got myself into a project that I should have walked away from but since I 
 am into it, I am not giving it up.
 I did offer it up for sale or trade but no one came looking so maybe they 
 were smarter than me. Time will tell.
 I bought, for little money, an antique woodworking multi-machine. It had a 
 12 table saw intending mostly for ripping, an 8 jointer and a 22 band saw 
 in one machine.
 It is old enough to be flat belt so pretty old.
 I decided that the band saw was the only desirable part so I dismantled it to 
 the point where I have only the band saw left on the frame.
 I then wanted to cut the frame down to a smaller size. If my memory is 
 reasonably accurate, the frame will end up about 24 square.
 The frame has 2 cast end frames and pipes that join the two ends. The pipes 
 go through holes in the end frames. They are held in place by set screws in 
 the end frames and by lead melted in to the frame to fill any voids around 
 the pipe.
 I melted the lead out of the holes on the one frame with a propane torch so 
 that I could remove the one end frame. Then cut the pipes down by a foot or 
 more to make a more compact frame unit.
 There are 4 pipes through the end frame sides and 2 angle iron pieces on the 
 top.
 My issue now, is that I want to refill the voids with melted lead.
 I tipped the unit on end so that the parts I wanted to melt into were down.
 I clamped a piece of plywood on the end of the one spot and melted solder 
 into the gap between the pipe and the frame. Not a large gap. Probably 1/8th 
 at the widest.
 Unfortunately, it did not work out well.  I need some means of plugging the 
 end better. The plywood did not fit tight to the pipe end - only to the frame 
 end. The solder went into the end of the pipe and when it had burned the 
 plywood enough to make a hole, flowed out. I ended up with a bit of a lead 
 plug that fell out of the end of the pipe when I removed the plywood.
 I can use a piece of steel in place of the plywood so that it will not burn 
 through but I need some means of plugging the end of the pipe so that the 
 solder will just fill the void around the pipe.
 
 Any great ideas?
 Muffler cement??
 
 RB
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] S500 Mystery

2015-06-05 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I thought starter fluid was used to find leaks in gasoline car vacuum systems?  
Spray a little in a spot, see if idle speed picks up, spray another spot...
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] This has got to be a scam

2015-06-05 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
What's the blue book value?  Maybe money laundering??

On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 1:39 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:



 2003 Mercedes-Benz E320
 http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/5050457304.html

 via cPro Craigslist App
 iOS: http://tinyurl.com/CL-iDevice
 Android: http://tinyurl.com/CL-Android


 Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] S430/W220 Fleece Filter - ???

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
They are to replace the 2 o rings that are on the stem the filter sits on.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 4:15 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 OK, so this is the first one of these fleece filters I’ve ever used.  I see 
 the little graphic with the filter about how it’s supposed to be positioned 
 on the long plastic tube, but what in the heck are all the “O” rings for that 
 come with it??
 
 I’m sure t will make sense when I pull the old one out, but I want to be 
 sure….
 
 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] #17 head, need it?

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
I would not mind having it

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 5:41 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 There's a '91 SDL at the local knackers, #17 head.  I'm very tempted to pull 
 it.  Anyone have a need or interest?  No obvious reason why the car is there. 
  Some knuckle head removed the oil fill cap, so the camshaft is rusted.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] S430/W220 Fleece Filter - ???

2015-06-05 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
He’s dead, Jim.

But I believe his cat is still alive.  Probably driving his cars, too:

http://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/video/toonces-the-cat/n9792

Dan


 On Jun 5, 2015, at 6:24 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 OK, so this is the first one of these fleece filters I've ever used.  I see 
 the little graphic with the filter about how it's supposed to be positioned 
 on the long plastic tube, but what in the heck are all the O rings for 
 that come with it??
 
 I'm sure t will make sense when I pull the old one out, but I want to be 
 sureŠ.
 
 Dan
 
 W'ere's Woger w'en we need im?
 
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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb!! - a Match for your Euro W126!

2015-06-05 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
I would rather jump on this:

http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5060315514.html

This is the W140 I was going to look at but didn’t.  There’s got to be 
something fishy going on here, as if the car was as described it should have 
sold a long time ago.

If he gets down to $2500 by the end of next week I’ll buy it.

Dan


 On Jun 5, 2015, at 8:38 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 You should jump on that, key should be easy to get
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jun 5, 2015, at 7:35 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Just find the keys!
 
 http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5060434994.html
 
 Dan
 
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Re: [MBZ] S430/W220 Fleece Filter - ???

2015-06-05 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
OK, so this is the first one of these fleece 
filters I've ever used.  I see the little 
graphic with the filter about how it's supposed 
to be positioned on the long plastic tube, but 
what in the heck are all the O rings for that 
come with it??


I'm sure t will make sense when I pull the old 
one out, but I want to be sureŠ.


Dan


W'ere's Woger w'en we need im?

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Re: [MBZ] Microsoft Mysteries

2015-06-05 Thread Gerry Archer via Mercedes
Interesting. I'll try that with Microsoft.
Gerry

Curly McLain wrote:

 Tried to sign into Microsoft. It rejected my address because it 
 contained the symbol @ . How an address can written without using @ 
 (at) is a mystery. It's enough to drive a person to Linux.
 (end of rant)
 Gerry
 
 I had a linux VM webserver/email server that insisted you replace @ 
 with a dash.  It was weird.
 
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-- 
Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com

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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I'm not a welder, but I understand that welding galvanised steel produces fumes 
that can make you sick?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] S430/W220 Fleece Filter - ???

2015-06-05 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Thanks!

Never having used one of these before, I figured I would ask in case the little 
card with the graphics they pack with it didn’t make sense.

It definitely makes a point of identifying how far up the spike the filter 
should go.  I did notice that when I looked at it.

Dan


 On Jun 5, 2015, at 6:04 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
 OK, so this is the first one of these fleece filters I’ve ever used.  I see 
 the little graphic with the filter about how it’s supposed to be positioned 
 on the long plastic tube, but what in the heck are all the “O” rings for 
 that come with it??
 I’m sure t will make sense when I pull the old one out, but I want to be 
 sure….
 
 I'm sure it's just like the V6 version, the lid has a giant tapered plastic 
 spike on it, like a plastic tent stake. I forget how many o-rings are on that 
 spike, but you'll use most if not all that come with the filter.
 
 The biggest one goes on the cap to keep the oil inside the engine, one or two 
 littlest ones seal the bottom of the spike like the o-ring on a OM617 filter 
 rod, the mid sized ones go more or less where the filter ends are.
 
 Make note where the old filter is on the spike, lube up the new one and make 
 sure it's shoved in as much as the old one was.
 
 Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] #17 head, need it?

2015-06-05 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Me too, may just keep it as a spare, but maybe somebody here really needs one?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On June 5, 2015 7:36:05 PM EDT, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
I would not mind having it

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 5:41 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 There's a '91 SDL at the local knackers, #17 head.  I'm very tempted
to pull it.  Anyone have a need or interest?  No obvious reason why the
car is there.  Some knuckle head removed the oil fill cap, so the
camshaft is rusted.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
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[MBZ] #17 head, need it?

2015-06-05 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
There's a '91 SDL at the local knackers, #17 head.  I'm very tempted to pull 
it.  Anyone have a need or interest?  No obvious reason why the car is there.  
Some knuckle head removed the oil fill cap, so the camshaft is rusted.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
PC boxes are most likely clad with galvanize material. Galvanizing requires
the base metal be coated with Zinc compounds which can and WILL contaminate
your weld, thus welds that look like bird droppings. The job of rod flux is
to carry away the contaminates in the weld puddle, but the flux core wire
from China doesn't have enough volume of flux to combat zinc contamination
of the weld puddle.. in fact.. if you were using gas, you would have to
crank up the flow rate to over come it.

The fact that you are having splatter and slag issues should have keyed me
to tell you the zinc boiling off is likely the cause. I overlooked that..
my apology.

Try a welding a piece of the same material you have dressed with a grinding
wheel to clean steel.. see if it doesn't give you a much better weld. I
will lay bets it does.

Go to your local steel supplier and pick up some end cut scraps for
practice, in MILD STEEL only.. then run a few passes.. look at the
difference.. you should see immediate good results.. even with crappy
Chinese flux wire from Harbor Fright.

A good part of welding is knowing the metalurgy of the metal you are
joining.. and how it affects the weld.


On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 3:28 PM, Dimitri via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Unless you use shielding gas you will be unhappy with your results. I
 promise!

 Sent from my iPhone

  On Jun 5, 2015, at 4:33 PM, clay via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:
 
  The wire is garbage, but it came free with the welder. May as well burn
 through it.
 
  setting up feed speed is hit and miss for now.  It does not want to feed
 as slowly as the graph inside says I need it.  There are two amperage
 speeds.  Lots and not that much.  I could not get much speed or heat to get
 a good bead
 
  clay
 
  On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:12 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:
 
  clay wrote:
 
  I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was
  getting a bunch of blow through.
 
  Thin sheet metal and gasless wirefeed is pretty tough.  Set
  the wire feed and amperage low.  And get some good wire.  The
  HF wire is junk.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Dimitri via Mercedes
Yes. Always grind off the galvanized area to clean metal before welding. If one 
really wants a clean weld, the area to be welded should be free from dirt, 
grease, paint and rust including the back side of the metal. Some people go as 
far as to wipe clean with denatured alcohol.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 6:48 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 I'm not a welder, but I understand that welding galvanised steel produces 
 fumes that can make you sick?
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Not just sick.. but dead. .. welding galvanized metal in an enclosed space
will kill you.
The antidote, however is to drink milk... being lactose intollerent isn't
going to help you there.. ha..

Remove the victim to fresh air quickly and vent the area of toxic gases. Of
course.

On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I'm not a welder, but I understand that welding galvanised steel produces
 fumes that can make you sick?
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] S430/W220 Fleece Filter - ???

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
There are 2 black lines on the filter, you have to make sure it's inserted to 
where the 1st line is covered

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 5:04 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
 OK, so this is the first one of these fleece filters I’ve ever used.  I see 
 the little graphic with the filter about how it’s supposed to be positioned 
 on the long plastic tube, but what in the heck are all the “O” rings for 
 that come with it??
 I’m sure t will make sense when I pull the old one out, but I want to be 
 sure….
 
 I'm sure it's just like the V6 version, the lid has a giant tapered plastic 
 spike on it, like a plastic tent stake. I forget how many o-rings are on that 
 spike, but you'll use most if not all that come with the filter.
 
 The biggest one goes on the cap to keep the oil inside the engine, one or two 
 littlest ones seal the bottom of the spike like the o-ring on a OM617 filter 
 rod, the mid sized ones go more or less where the filter ends are.
 
 Make note where the old filter is on the spike, lube up the new one and make 
 sure it's shoved in as much as the old one was.
 
 Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb!! - a Match for your Euro W126!

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
You should jump on that, key should be easy to get

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 7:35 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Just find the keys!
 
 http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5060434994.html
 
 Dan
 
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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I would imagine the HF unit is basically a Chinese copy of my Lincoln HandyMig. 
Mine has provision for shielding gas but I've never set it up, the bottle would 
be decidedly un-handy, I'd need a cart for the thing, blah blah.I think I paid 
$250 or so for mine and its been worth the money. I burn through about 5# of 
wire a year. I've also been lucky to have some time on multi-thousand dollar 
Miller machines with shielding gas and while those are fantastic I'm not 
dissatisfied with my machine.The trick is that I tend to end up using much more 
wire speed than I think I need and counter-intuitively sheet metal usually 
requires more wire speed. When welding heavier stuff I end up using the same 
wire speed or a little less, I turn the heat up and just move slower which 
gives the penetration needed. This was hard for me to learn after I'd taught 
myself how to do sheet metal.
Theres definitely an art to it and since I haven't welded in 3 or 4 months I 
know the next time I try it'll take me an hour or so to get the feel back. I 
find for me moving the torch in little circles is the key to preventing burn 
through. I generally push the puddle although I've had some success dragging 
it, mostly when welding upside down like on a car floor.
Remember that the coating on the wire will absorb water. A new spool of wire is 
so nice which is why I only buy 5# at a time. My machine will handle a 20# 
spool but it'd be gross by the time I got to the end. I *think* you could dry 
it back out if you put it in a box with an incandescent bulb for a couple hours 
but I've yet to try it...
After I burned (and scarred) the inside of my elbow last fall Angie bought me a 
welding shirt that has leather arms. Its not the height of fashion buts nice to 
have that safety.

-Curt
  From: Dimitri via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Cc: Dimitri dsereta...@yahoo.com 
 Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 6:28 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts
   
Unless you use shielding gas you will be unhappy with your results. I promise!

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 4:33 PM, clay via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 The wire is garbage, but it came free with the welder. May as well burn 
 through it.
 
 setting up feed speed is hit and miss for now.  It does not want to feed as 
 slowly as the graph inside says I need it.  There are two amperage speeds.  
 Lots and not that much.  I could not get much speed or heat to get a good bead
 
 clay
 
 On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:12 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:
 
 clay wrote:
 
 I could not get a decent bead using the PC carcasses and was
 getting a bunch of blow through.
 
 Thin sheet metal and gasless wirefeed is pretty tough.  Set
 the wire feed and amperage low.  And get some good wire.  The
 HF wire is junk.  
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts

2015-06-05 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Grant,
I agree that theres a coating there, I'm not sure its always galvanizing 
though. I suspect its similar though and reacts similarly. I've gotten in the 
habit of cleaning 1/4 around the sheet metal I'm using when I weld. I like 
leaving most of the stuff on, it doesn't burn off too bad other than right 
where I'm welding and it doesn't seem to rust.
My next step is to buy a bigger grinder. I'm going to get a 5 with the thinner 
grip. I don't know what its called other than its not the paddle grip my 4 1/2 
Makita has, that one makes my hands tired quick.
-Curt
  From: G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Cc: G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com 
 Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 6:42 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Slag hurts
   
PC boxes are most likely clad with galvanize material. Galvanizing requires
the base metal be coated with Zinc compounds which can and WILL contaminate
your weld, thus welds that look like bird droppings. The job of rod flux is
to carry away the contaminates in the weld puddle, but the flux core wire
from China doesn't have enough volume of flux to combat zinc contamination
of the weld puddle.. in fact.. if you were using gas, you would have to
crank up the flow rate to over come it.

The fact that you are having splatter and slag issues should have keyed me
to tell you the zinc boiling off is likely the cause. I overlooked that..
my apology.

Try a welding a piece of the same material you have dressed with a grinding
wheel to clean steel.. see if it doesn't give you a much better weld. I
will lay bets it does.

Go to your local steel supplier and pick up some end cut scraps for
practice, in MILD STEEL only.. then run a few passes.. look at the
difference.. you should see immediate good results.. even with crappy
Chinese flux wire from Harbor Fright.

A good part of welding is knowing the metalurgy of the metal you are
joining.. and how it affects the weld.

   
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[MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
I think this tractor is one of the best things since sliced bread. Today 
at old okie acres I used it to load up a HUGE tree that blew down that I 
cut up.  Later at home I used it to move 124 around. While the FEL wont 
lift the front of a 124 off the ground, it will lift it up enough then I 
can push it to where I want.  I managed to screw up the already broken 
front bumper air dam a little more with the front bucket.  So I am now 
thinking about buying some bucket forks which I could use to load 
engines that I am fixing to start moving, and when moving cars can get 
the forks up under front of the car and lift.


I am looking at these clamp on type like this which are cheap:

http://www.amazon.com/Pallet-bucket-loaders-tractors-steers/dp/B002ITHNWY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8qid=1433555093sr=8-4keywords=bucket+forks

But thinking I should pony up more money and get this setup, which the 
bucket detaches from the FEL and you attach this, looks like it would 
work a lot better


http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Pallet-Attachment-Deere-Loaders/dp/B00A1D103W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8qid=1433555181sr=8-13keywords=bucket+forks

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Re: [MBZ] OT another sort of metal working question

2015-06-05 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
JB Weld was my thought as well - but use it instead of the lead, not to
seal the end before pouring lead.

On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 5:43 PM, Dimitri via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Jb weld?




-- 
OK Don

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our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes



But thinking I should pony up more money and get this setup, which 
the bucket detaches from the FEL and you attach this, looks like it 
would work a lot better


http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Pallet-Attachment-Deere-Loaders/dp/B00A1D103W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8qid=1433555181sr=8-13keywords=bucket+forks



You got that right!

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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Which Kioti do you have? I'm leaning toward the CK27. I'm taking the advice to 
go oversized and not get the 20. I don't think we'll do a backhoe but you never 
know. 

I like that there's a dealer near camp and one near my house. I'm kind of 
thinking I'd keep it at my place for the summer. Probably won't get more than 
150 hours a year either way...


Curt



Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

From:Scott Ritchey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date:Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 11:34 PM
Subject:Re: [MBZ] tractor

If you use it frequently, you won't regret getting a real pallet fork with a
quick-attach interface.  My loader has the skid-steer quick attach interface
but I think John Deere has their own version of something similar.  The
quick-attach makes changing buckets, forks, etc. very fast and easy.

By the way, there is an aftermarket grease gun coupler called LocknLube,
which I highly recommend (available from Amazon and others).  It's
overpriced ($30) but worth it.  All the grease goes into the fitting.  On my
Kioti, the loader gets greased every 10 hours, the mower every 20, and
everything else every 50 hours; so a good coupler saves a little grease and
a lot of mess.

 -Original Message-
 From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
 Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 10:47 PM
 
 I'm thinking I'm going to get that more expensive style I sent that
replaces the
 bucket. I noticed they have a bunch of different versions of that
depending on
 what you want doz
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Jun 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  The clamp-on forks are useful but with two drawbacks:  (1) you can't
  see what you are doing when the bucket blocks your view and (2) you
  will bend the bucket if you overload them (the loader is stronger than
  the lip of the bucket).
 
  Still they are quite useful for the money.  I got a set just to unload
  palletized deliveries to my farm.  The driver just pulls off the road,
  moves the pallet to the back of the truck with his pallet jack, and I
  slip the forks under he pallet to unload.  You may want back ballast
  (like a mower or box blade) to lift heavier stuff with the loader.
  For several reasons, you don't want the back wheels to leave the ground.
 
  While visiting my brother-in-law's farm in Virginia, he introduced me
  to a new term:  tractor envy.
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
  Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
  Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 9:47 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin
  Subject: [MBZ] tractor
 
  I think this tractor is one of the best things since sliced bread.
  Today
  at old okie
  acres I used it to load up a HUGE tree that blew down that I cut up.
  Later at
  home I used it to move 124 around. While the FEL wont lift the front
  of a
  124
  off the ground, it will lift it up enough then I can push it to where
  I
  want.  I
  managed to screw up the already broken front bumper air dam a little
  more with the front bucket.  So I am now thinking about buying some
  bucket
  forks
  which I could use to load engines that I am fixing to start moving,
  and
  when
  moving cars can get the forks up under front of the car and lift.
 
  I am looking at these clamp on type like this which are cheap:
 
  http://www.amazon.com/Pallet-bucket-loaders-tractors-
  steers/dp/B002ITHNWY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8qid=1433555093sr=8-
  4keywords=bucket+forks
 
  But thinking I should pony up more money and get this setup, which
  the bucket detaches from the FEL and you attach this, looks like it
  would work
  a
  lot better
 
  http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Pallet-Attachment-Deere-
  Loaders/dp/B00A1D103W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8qid=1433555181sr=8-
  13keywords=bucket+forks
 
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 
 
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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
I'm thinking I'm going to get that more expensive style I sent that replaces 
the bucket. I noticed they have a bunch of different versions of that depending 
on what you want doz

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 The clamp-on forks are useful but with two drawbacks:  (1) you can't see
 what you are doing when the bucket blocks your view and (2) you will bend
 the bucket if you overload them (the loader is stronger than the lip of the
 bucket).  
 
 Still they are quite useful for the money.  I got a set just to unload
 palletized deliveries to my farm.  The driver just pulls off the road, moves
 the pallet to the back of the truck with his pallet jack, and I slip the
 forks under he pallet to unload.  You may want back ballast (like a mower or
 box blade) to lift heavier stuff with the loader.  For several reasons, you
 don't want the back wheels to leave the ground.
 
 While visiting my brother-in-law's farm in Virginia, he introduced me to a
 new term:  tractor envy.
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
 Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 9:47 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin
 Subject: [MBZ] tractor
 
 I think this tractor is one of the best things since sliced bread. Today
 at old okie
 acres I used it to load up a HUGE tree that blew down that I cut up.
 Later at
 home I used it to move 124 around. While the FEL wont lift the front of a
 124
 off the ground, it will lift it up enough then I can push it to where I
 want.  I
 managed to screw up the already broken front bumper air dam a little more
 with the front bucket.  So I am now thinking about buying some bucket
 forks
 which I could use to load engines that I am fixing to start moving, and
 when
 moving cars can get the forks up under front of the car and lift.
 
 I am looking at these clamp on type like this which are cheap:
 
 http://www.amazon.com/Pallet-bucket-loaders-tractors-
 steers/dp/B002ITHNWY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8qid=1433555093sr=8-
 4keywords=bucket+forks
 
 But thinking I should pony up more money and get this setup, which the
 bucket detaches from the FEL and you attach this, looks like it would work
 a
 lot better
 
 http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Pallet-Attachment-Deere-
 Loaders/dp/B00A1D103W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8qid=1433555181sr=8-
 13keywords=bucket+forks
 
 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint or other covering for shed floor

2015-06-05 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
My hangar floor is painted concrete. I don't know what kind of paint, nor
how old it is, but I do know that the Chem Tool carb cleaner will dissolve
it. It is also VERY slippery when wet. I ended up buying a pair of shoes
meant for working on wet slippery surfaces from New Balance - they make as
much difference as studded snow tires vs. worn out old tires on ice/snow.

On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:00 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


 No known problems due to the coating, other than it's a bit slick when wet.

 Mitch.




-- 
OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
If you use it frequently, you won't regret getting a real pallet fork with a
quick-attach interface.  My loader has the skid-steer quick attach interface
but I think John Deere has their own version of something similar.  The
quick-attach makes changing buckets, forks, etc. very fast and easy.

By the way, there is an aftermarket grease gun coupler called LocknLube,
which I highly recommend (available from Amazon and others).  It's
overpriced ($30) but worth it.  All the grease goes into the fitting.  On my
Kioti, the loader gets greased every 10 hours, the mower every 20, and
everything else every 50 hours; so a good coupler saves a little grease and
a lot of mess.

 -Original Message-
 From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
 Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 10:47 PM
 
 I'm thinking I'm going to get that more expensive style I sent that
replaces the
 bucket. I noticed they have a bunch of different versions of that
depending on
 what you want doz
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Jun 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  The clamp-on forks are useful but with two drawbacks:  (1) you can't
  see what you are doing when the bucket blocks your view and (2) you
  will bend the bucket if you overload them (the loader is stronger than
  the lip of the bucket).
 
  Still they are quite useful for the money.  I got a set just to unload
  palletized deliveries to my farm.  The driver just pulls off the road,
  moves the pallet to the back of the truck with his pallet jack, and I
  slip the forks under he pallet to unload.  You may want back ballast
  (like a mower or box blade) to lift heavier stuff with the loader.
  For several reasons, you don't want the back wheels to leave the ground.
 
  While visiting my brother-in-law's farm in Virginia, he introduced me
  to a new term:  tractor envy.
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
  Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
  Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 9:47 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin
  Subject: [MBZ] tractor
 
  I think this tractor is one of the best things since sliced bread.
  Today
  at old okie
  acres I used it to load up a HUGE tree that blew down that I cut up.
  Later at
  home I used it to move 124 around. While the FEL wont lift the front
  of a
  124
  off the ground, it will lift it up enough then I can push it to where
  I
  want.  I
  managed to screw up the already broken front bumper air dam a little
  more with the front bucket.  So I am now thinking about buying some
  bucket
  forks
  which I could use to load engines that I am fixing to start moving,
  and
  when
  moving cars can get the forks up under front of the car and lift.
 
  I am looking at these clamp on type like this which are cheap:
 
  http://www.amazon.com/Pallet-bucket-loaders-tractors-
  steers/dp/B002ITHNWY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8qid=1433555093sr=8-
  4keywords=bucket+forks
 
  But thinking I should pony up more money and get this setup, which
  the bucket detaches from the FEL and you attach this, looks like it
  would work
  a
  lot better
 
  http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Pallet-Attachment-Deere-
  Loaders/dp/B00A1D103W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8qid=1433555181sr=8-
  13keywords=bucket+forks
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Loading firewood is one of the things I'm especially interested in having an 
FEL for. Dad is probably going to start spending a lot more time at camp now 
that he's retired and I'll be processing wood for him. I'll probably also get a 
splitter to put on the 3pt. Actually with that I might split the wood right 
where I drop the tree...
-Curt

  From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net 
 Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 9:47 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] tractor
   
I think this tractor is one of the best things since sliced bread. Today 
at old okie acres I used it to load up a HUGE tree that blew down that I 
cut up.  Later at home I used it to move 124 around. While the FEL wont 
lift the front of a 124 off the ground, it will lift it up enough then I 
can push it to where I want.  I managed to screw up the already broken 
front bumper air dam a little more with the front bucket.  So I am now 
thinking about buying some bucket forks which I could use to load 
engines that I am fixing to start moving, and when moving cars can get 
the forks up under front of the car and lift.

I am looking at these clamp on type like this which are cheap:

http://www.amazon.com/Pallet-bucket-loaders-tractors-steers/dp/B002ITHNWY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8qid=1433555093sr=8-4keywords=bucket+forks

But thinking I should pony up more money and get this setup, which the 
bucket detaches from the FEL and you attach this, looks like it would 
work a lot better

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Pallet-Attachment-Deere-Loaders/dp/B00A1D103W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8qid=1433555181sr=8-13keywords=bucket+forks

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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes

2 feet across. How do you split those?


With the splitter.  That's what I do.  (I never move the ram into
its horizontal position.)  I just chew around the edges with the
thing, it gets it done eventually.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Andrew's shed

2015-06-05 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
That's how I built my last one, in 1982, and still solid (last I knew 0
sold the house 3 years ago).

On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 5:15 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I build sheds with .60 treated lumber for foundations (ground contact)  2
 x 6 joists and 3/4 plywood for the floors.  Last for a long time and
 termites/carpenter ants won't eat the .060 wood.  No concrete
 truck/concrete finishers/floats/power trowel/forms required.





-- 
OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
Speaking of splitting wood I have not done this in many years. I got I split 
all this wood from this tree. The big chunks I looked today are something like 
2 feet across. How do you split those? Do I need to chain saw them in half 
first? The FEL is a must have item.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 8:50 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Loading firewood is one of the things I'm especially interested in having an 
 FEL for. Dad is probably going to start spending a lot more time at camp now 
 that he's retired and I'll be processing wood for him. I'll probably also get 
 a splitter to put on the 3pt. Actually with that I might split the wood right 
 where I drop the tree...
 -Curt
 
  From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net 
 Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 9:47 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] tractor
 
 I think this tractor is one of the best things since sliced bread. Today 
 at old okie acres I used it to load up a HUGE tree that blew down that I 
 cut up.  Later at home I used it to move 124 around. While the FEL wont 
 lift the front of a 124 off the ground, it will lift it up enough then I 
 can push it to where I want.  I managed to screw up the already broken 
 front bumper air dam a little more with the front bucket.  So I am now 
 thinking about buying some bucket forks which I could use to load 
 engines that I am fixing to start moving, and when moving cars can get 
 the forks up under front of the car and lift.
 
 I am looking at these clamp on type like this which are cheap:
 
 http://www.amazon.com/Pallet-bucket-loaders-tractors-steers/dp/B002ITHNWY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8qid=1433555093sr=8-4keywords=bucket+forks
 
 But thinking I should pony up more money and get this setup, which the 
 bucket detaches from the FEL and you attach this, looks like it would 
 work a lot better
 
 http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Pallet-Attachment-Deere-Loaders/dp/B00A1D103W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8qid=1433555181sr=8-13keywords=bucket+forks
 
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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
Loading firewood is one of the things I'm especially interested in 
having an FEL for. Dad is probably going to start spending a lot 
more time at camp now that he's retired and I'll be processing wood 
for him. I'll probably also get a splitter to put on the 3pt. 
Actually with that I might split the wood right where I drop the 
tree...

-Curt


When I was in HS and Jr High, i cut and split a lot of oak.  I sawed 
em up and split them right there.  loaded em on a low trailer and 
hauled em in.  Then unloaded into stacks or ricks.


THen load onto the truck and haul it to town, and unload, and in some 
cases, we had to stack it all into ricks too.  All for $35 a load. 
(3-4 pickup loads)   $5 a face cord.


I got my first car with wood money, and my 760 Remington 6mm, and 
some other stuff.


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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
Speaking of splitting wood I have not done this in many years. I got 
I split all this wood from this tree. The big chunks I looked today 
are something like 2 feet across. How do you split those? Do I need 
to chain saw them in half first? The FEL is a must have item.


Sent from my OkieJoePonyPhone


Maul and wedges.  Just keep splitting off burnable pieces until it is gone.

If the wood is right and you are GOOD, you can split faster with a 4 
lb double bit axe.  That's what I did, but on the tough stuff, I 
still had to use the maul and wedges.  THe axe was 2-4 times more 
productive.



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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb!! - a Match for your Euro W126!

2015-06-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
Looks nice but what's the deal with the wheels? I thought something was fishy 
with that 600 which is why I did not jump on it but As it turned out it may 
have been a good deal after all.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 7:40 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 I would rather jump on this:
 
 http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5060315514.html
 
 This is the W140 I was going to look at but didn’t.  There’s got to be 
 something fishy going on here, as if the car was as described it should have 
 sold a long time ago.
 
 If he gets down to $2500 by the end of next week I’ll buy it.
 
 Dan
 
 
 On Jun 5, 2015, at 8:38 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 You should jump on that, key should be easy to get
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jun 5, 2015, at 7:35 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Just find the keys!
 
 http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5060434994.html
 
 Dan
 
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Re: [MBZ] tractor

2015-06-05 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
The clamp-on forks are useful but with two drawbacks:  (1) you can't see
what you are doing when the bucket blocks your view and (2) you will bend
the bucket if you overload them (the loader is stronger than the lip of the
bucket).  

Still they are quite useful for the money.  I got a set just to unload
palletized deliveries to my farm.  The driver just pulls off the road, moves
the pallet to the back of the truck with his pallet jack, and I slip the
forks under he pallet to unload.  You may want back ballast (like a mower or
box blade) to lift heavier stuff with the loader.  For several reasons, you
don't want the back wheels to leave the ground.

While visiting my brother-in-law's farm in Virginia, he introduced me to a
new term:  tractor envy.

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
 Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 9:47 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin
 Subject: [MBZ] tractor
 
 I think this tractor is one of the best things since sliced bread. Today
at old okie
 acres I used it to load up a HUGE tree that blew down that I cut up.
Later at
 home I used it to move 124 around. While the FEL wont lift the front of a
124
 off the ground, it will lift it up enough then I can push it to where I
want.  I
 managed to screw up the already broken front bumper air dam a little more
 with the front bucket.  So I am now thinking about buying some bucket
forks
 which I could use to load engines that I am fixing to start moving, and
when
 moving cars can get the forks up under front of the car and lift.
 
 I am looking at these clamp on type like this which are cheap:
 
 http://www.amazon.com/Pallet-bucket-loaders-tractors-
 steers/dp/B002ITHNWY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8qid=1433555093sr=8-
 4keywords=bucket+forks
 
 But thinking I should pony up more money and get this setup, which the
 bucket detaches from the FEL and you attach this, looks like it would work
a
 lot better
 
 http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Pallet-Attachment-Deere-
 Loaders/dp/B00A1D103W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8qid=1433555181sr=8-
 13keywords=bucket+forks
 
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 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint or other covering for shed floor

2015-06-05 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
Thanks for all the great input.  I'm going to Home Depot tomorrow for some
nice green astroturf.  :)

On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 11:20 PM, OK Don via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 My hangar floor is painted concrete. I don't know what kind of paint, nor
 how old it is, but I do know that the Chem Tool carb cleaner will dissolve
 it. It is also VERY slippery when wet. I ended up buying a pair of shoes
 meant for working on wet slippery surfaces from New Balance - they make as
 much difference as studded snow tires vs. worn out old tires on ice/snow.

 On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:00 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 
  No known problems due to the coating, other than it's a bit slick when
 wet.
 
  Mitch.
 
 


 --
 OK Don

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