Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Hello Nighthawk Riders

[Kyle Munz]

I've had some great conversations in this group, gained invaluable
information, kept my bike on the road longer than I would have by myself,
and best of all made some unforgettable friends.

I agree it's probably time to shut this group down since it's essentially
shut itself down already. My only regret is that I never got to attend one
of the famous "Blinker Parties"!

-Kyle


On Mon, Mar 27, 2023 at 9:36 AM Paul LeBoutillier 
wrote:

> I've noticed that this motorcycle email list has become increasingly
> inactive, therefore, unless I hear from someone on this list who is willing
> to take over the management of it, I will be closing it down in one week's
> time.
>
> Thanks for all the great participation over the years.
>
> Paul
> paul.leb...@gmail.com
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Clutch lens replacement

[Kyle Munz]

That's why I went with the 2mm over the 1mm thick piece. Also the mineral
glass is typically stronger. It can't be less sturdy than the OEM
sightglass Honda installed back in the 80s.

-Kyle


On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 10:05 PM Ian Chames  wrote:

> Hey Kyle,
>
> cool replacement trick! my only thought is; although the crystal is 2mm
> thick, it is a piece of glass, yes? Although a highly remote possibility, a
> rock kicked up from a tire could hit the crystal square-on and crack it…
> again, this is probably a one-in-a-million chance, and odds are it will
> never happen, Still….
>
> A great fix though, and one I’ll remember if my sight lens’s ever need
> changing… I look at your fix… well done!
>
> Ian
>
> On Aug 19, 2022, at 4:12 AM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
> Hi Peter,
>
> Welcome to the group. I used a 16.7mm x 2mm for mine. I have pics of the
> process here:
> https://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/654/replacing-the-sight-glass/
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 9:10 AM Peter Mavros 
> wrote:
>
>> Hey guys,
>>
>> I'm new to this group and currently restoring a 1985 650cc. The next item
>> on my list is the view lens on my master cylinder. Does anyone know if it
>> is a 15mm or 188mm fit? I can't find a solid answer online.
>>
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>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Clutch lens replacement

[Kyle Munz]

Hi Peter,

Welcome to the group. I used a 16.7mm x 2mm for mine. I have pics of the
process here: https://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/654/replacing-the-sight-glass/

-Kyle


On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 9:10 AM Peter Mavros 
wrote:

> Hey guys,
>
> I'm new to this group and currently restoring a 1985 650cc. The next item
> on my list is the view lens on my master cylinder. Does anyone know if it
> is a 15mm or 188mm fit? I can't find a solid answer online.
>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 84 Nighthawk 650 Fuse Block

[Kyle Munz]

The fuseblock can be cleaned up (somewhat). I took pics when I did mine. It
wasn't perfect because some of it had been melted but it worked reliably
after that. I tried finding replacements but all of them in the local
salvage yards were in the same or worse condition.
https://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/166/fuseblock/


-Kyle


On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 1:31 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Typical cb650sc nighthawk fuse box. I use tin foil to pad out the fuses
> and whatever to make contact. That usually works.
>
> On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 11:33 AM J Michael Fiala 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello from NE Ohio!
>>
>> After about 18 years< I pulled my 650 out of storage after my 17 yo son
>> requested we get it running. We have worked through a carburetor rebuild,
>> brake and clutch master cylinder rebuilds and bleeding, brake caliper
>> rebuild, cylinder firing order issue, and slapped on some new tires. We
>> have enjoyed some parking lot rides and racing up and down our street. I
>> can't get over how responsive and peppy this bike is. It even fires on the
>> first crank of the starter.
>>
>> The last gremlin we have to fix is the electronics; turn signals, display
>> lights, horn, stop light. After checking all the wiring, relays, r/r, and
>> switches, I was able to determine that the issue was in the fuse block.
>> Three of the fuses do not snap into place. Further investigation revealed
>> that the spring contacts in the fuse block are broken. I discovered that
>> after I jailbroke the fuse block. Now I have access to the inside of the
>> fuse block.
>>
>> I have searched the interwebs and have found about 3 used oem fuse blocks
>> available.
>>
>> Questions I have:
>> Has anyone repaired/rebuilt a fuse block?
>> Does the fuse block/fuse only pertain to electric pathways for lighting
>> on the bike?
>> Can I update to a new universal fuse block/control system like moto.mo?
>>
>> I will update with pictures later.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Michael
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Height to top of stock windscreen....

[Kyle Munz]

Looks like 49" to the top of the windshield, a few more to the top of the
mirrors.

-Kyle


On Tue, Jun 21, 2022 at 6:08 PM William M  wrote:

> I've got only 39" clearance into my van.
> I think I need another plan?
> William b.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The Clymer myth of testing the charging system

[Kyle Munz]

One thing I learned back when I had my 650 was that Mr Clymer will
absolutely lie to you and won't feel bad about it. I can't say if he's
right or not about the charging system, it's been too many years, I think
the biggest lie I found was with wiring diagram had some wire colors mixed
up.

That said, yes the 83-85 650 does not charge below 2500 RPM. There are tons
and tons of threads in the archives here regarding the charging systems,
several disagreements, lots of high level discussions about the comings and
doings of electrons and amps and ohms, but the one thing agreed on is it
doesn't charge at idle.

-Kyle


On Fri, Jun 17, 2022 at 8:48 AM Frank Hawkwarts 
wrote:

> Dear Hawkies,
>
> proudly owning an US 83‘ Nighthawk 650 for many years now, I much
> appreciate Paul's valuable site leading me to this group.
> Currently I‘m also fighting the famous charging issues and struggle with a
> misleading information in the Clymer CB550 & 650 Nighthawk 1983-1985
> chapters 4 and 7 about the permanent magnetic rotor which states the
> following.
>
> Chapter 4 Engine - page 101:
> "Rotor Testing - the rotors are permanently magnetized and cannot be
> tested except by replacement with rotors known to be good. Rotors can lose
> magnetism from old age or a sharp blow. If defektive, the rotors must be
> replaced; they cannot be remagnetized. The inner and outer rotors are
> available only as a set."
>
> Chapter 7 Electrical System - page 186 (older Clymer print only, not found
> in my print):
> "Rotor Testing - The alternator has 2 rotors that are permanently
> magnetized and cannot be tested except by replacement with a rotor known to
> be good. A rotor can lose magnetism from old age or a sharp blow. If
> defektive, the rotors must be replaced; they cannot be remagnetized."
>
> But in fact, the US CB 650 SC Nighthawk (aka CBX 650 E in Europe) has a
> brushless excited field alternator which receives 12V DC input from the
> Voltage regulator through the black and white leads into a separate field
> coil to return adjusted AC through its 3 yellow leads on demand.
> Unlike a permantent magnet giving full capacity all time, it prevents the
> RR from smashing all the overhead by cooling the transformed heat.
>
> So it looks like the Clymer information was false copied from the
> preceding 82 CB650SC or similar model. There used to be a link to ‚Revised
> '83-85 Clymer Chapter 7 for '83-'85 CB650SC Charging System‘ which is
> broken and obsolete. Is there any other source to confirm my assumption?
>
> Another controversy discussion is often seen to when and what the charging
> starts ("it doesn't charge below 2500 vs. it they all charge at IDLE
> already").
> Well, the Table 1 at the end of chapter 7 states an negative amperage
> output up to 1500 rpm, approximately 0 amp at 2000-2100 rpm (83) resp.
> 1700-1800 rpm (84-on) and +2 amperage output beginning at 2500 rpm.
> This seems to match my experience when wasting a lot of time on traffic
> jams and lights before surprising me with an empty sucked battery on next
> engine start in the mid of nowhere *slurp*.
>
> Any comments to confirm or deny my throughts and assumptions are welcome
> :-)
>
> Thank you and take care,
> Frank
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Double-CB750

[Kyle Munz]

This isn't my build, just a bike I found online, but if you click the link
you can bid on it!

-Kyle


On Mon, Jan 24, 2022 at 9:00 PM Ian Chames  wrote:

>
> this is an incredible build! When the time comes, please put up video of
> it running, and even better yet - you  driving it, so we can hear it go
> through the gears!
> On Wednesday, January 19, 2022 at 8:16:36 AM UTC-8 cum.g...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Hello Nighthawk lovers, thanks a lot for this information about double
>> 750 engine.
>> Regarding to your question about if now is a 1500, my opinion is as
>> follow: before was 750 cc with four cylinders and now is a 750 cc with 6
>> cylinders
>> Because you do not increase the cc only increase the cylinder number
>> I hope to receive other opinion about it
>> Best regards
>>
>>
>> El mié., 19 de enero de 2022 11:27, Kyle Munz 
>> escribió:
>>
>>> If you slap two 750 motors in a frame, is it now a CB1500?
>>>
>>> [image: 1-1638310713683.jpg]
>>>
>>> https://www.mecum.com/lots/LV0122-489085/1972-honda-double-750-salt-flat-racer-the-anti-christ/
>>>
>>> It reminds me of that old commercial, double double cheese cheese CB750
>>> please.
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>> --
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>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/CAJARLXXLWvhuCobLv7A%3DMBYfcMdQmvTv-FiyLiFVTHRGDL7BdQ%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Digest for nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 2 topics

[Kyle Munz]

The alternator chain has definitely been covered here. You can find it by
searching through the archives.

-Kyle


On Fri, Jan 21, 2022 at 6:45 PM paul mangan 
wrote:

> Hi guys
> I have heard the dreaded rattling sound from my 83 650 and I am
> identifying it as  the alternator chain tensioner issuemy question has
> anyone posted on this before and is it possible to replace it without
> stripping down the engineif you could direct me on this would be
> greatthanks
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
>
> --
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com <
> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, 21 January 2022, 09:34
> *To:* Digest recipients
> *Subject:* [Nighthawk Lovers] Digest for nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> - 5 updates in 2 topics
>
> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> 
>  Google
> Groups
> 
> 
> Topic digest
> View all topics
> 
>
>- Double-CB750 <#m_8536231897937152753_group_thread_0> - 3 Updates
>- Mystery Problem with my Nighthawk 1998
><#m_8536231897937152753_group_thread_1> - 2 Updates
>
> Double-CB750
> 
> MattsAwesomeStuff : Jan 20 02:34AM -0700
>
> > What Matt and Kyle said. Think about it: you supply gasoline to each
> cylinder and fire every one of the 8. Every cylinder exerts its force onto
> the crank and will do the same work as the other 7. Some extra losses will
> result from mechanical linkages to connect the two cranks, but when you
> double the number of cylinders, burn double the amount of fuel, you get
> double the power.
>
> Oh, I think it's much simpler than that.
>
> It's not about whether it's better.
> It's not about whether it adds more horespower.
> It's not about efficiency or losses.
> It's not about how much gas goes into the cylinder.
> It's not about whether the cylinder gets fired.
> It's not about how much work the piston is doing.
>
> Engine displacement and power are unrelated.
>
> Engine displacement is literally only a measurement of the total volume
> that the cylinders displace when moving through their cycle, nothing more.
>
> In medicine, you'll hear doctors say "Give the patient 10ccs of X". It's
> the volume of a syringe's displacement (a plastic piston).
>
> In cooking, we know the displacement of jars of pickles or measuring cups.
> And it's called for by the recipe.
>
> That's all CCs mean. A measurement of volume.
>
> That task you perform with that measurement, what you do with that volume
> (fill with gas-air mixture and ignite, fill with medicine and inject, or
> fill with sugar and pour) doesn't change the volume.
> Francisco Gomez : Jan 20 09:17AM -0400
>
> Ok, on the case of volume you are sure, displacement volume is as you say,
> but front the point of view of performance is a 750 8 cyl
> Thanks a lot for this good conversation, time ago that I do not need to
> investigate about some technical matter
> Best regards
>
> El jue., 20 de enero de 2022 05:35, MattsAwesomeStuff <
> MattsAwesomeStuff : Jan 21 01:52AM -0700
>
> > but front the point of view of performance is a 750 8 cyl
>
> Hmm, no definitely not that either.
>
> From the point of performance, it would depend how much horsepower and
> torque you can get out of it, and how much it weighs. It would depend on
> what you had to do to get that power to the wheel.
>
> From a "What's the engine so I can compare it to other engines and how
> powerful they are" perspective, it's a 1500cc 8cyl.
>
> As others have commented, you seem to mistakenly believe each cylinder is
> 750ccs. They are not. The 4 of them add up to a total of 750ccs. So, 8 of
> them add up to 1500ccs. A "750cc 8cylinder" would be doubly mistaken and
> leave the wrong impression of what the engine is for both displacement and
> imagined performance.
> Back to top <#m_8536231897937152753_digest_top>
> Mystery Problem with my Nighthawk 1998
> 
> Francisco Gomez : Jan 20 09:24AM -0400
>
> Ok Drew thanks a lot for your support in this interesting item, I will
> check on web site about the manual, after that it will inform to the forum
> Best regards and has a nice day
>
> El jue., 20 de enero de 2022 00:37, Drew Gormley 
> escribió:
>
> Francisco Gomez : Jan 20 11:14AM -0400
>
> Drew please, could you let me know the link of web site of the maintenance
> manual recommended from you.
> Sorry for this requirement but in my side the internet is very low and
> intermittent, it is very difficult to surf in it
> 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] cb700sc sparkplug wires

[Kyle Munz]

Yep, they just screw onto the coils. You can order new resistor caps from
NGK (SD05F) and some 7mm copper core ignition cable and make your own
cables or even find spark plug wire sets on eBay now. I took pics when I
made mine: https://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/633/sparkplug-wires/

-Kyle


On Wed, Dec 8, 2021 at 1:38 AM Peter N  wrote:

> https://youtu.be/Z7LTvoMjkys?t=22
>
> Ok, I think I figured it out. This video helped a lot. So in the coil
> there's a screw, and the wire threads onto that screw. That's the part that
> had me confused. I will look in the manual for wire resistance. Thanks for
> the help.
>
> On Wednesday, December 8, 2021 at 2:25:43 AM UTC-5 Peter N wrote:
>
>> I've never made spark plug wires myself so forgive my ignorance, but do I
>> just shove the wire into the coil and screw the cap on? There's no special
>> type of wire end that's used for these coils? I was looking at the wire and
>> it has a hole in it.. That's just created by the coil then?
>>
>> On Wednesday, December 8, 2021 at 2:08:14 AM UTC-5 wrench...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Yep, those are standard plug wires. You do need to figure out the
>>> resistance above and below that connector, it may have a resistor inside,
>>> but once you figure that out, you just replace that wire.
>>>
>>> You can buy all four and replace all of them or just the one.
>>> Research the year and model and the plug wire's resistance rating.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Dec 8, 2021 at 1:39 PM Peter N  wrote:
>>>
 [image: 2021-12-08 00_28_42-IMG_20211208_001119.jpg ‎- Photos.png][image:
 2021-12-08 00_29_03-IMG_20211208_001058.jpg ‎- Photos.png]So I was
 taking everything off to do the valve cover gasket and drain the tank and
 one of the wires broke off. The previous owner had electrical tape wrapped
 around it so I assume it was already broken. What are my options? I would
 like to replace all four wires. Are there kits that come with the ends that
 plug into the coils directly?


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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 84 cb700sc petcock selector rebuild

[Kyle Munz]

I don't know where to buy one today, but I've got this advice from one of
early members of this group:

> FYI: in the old days before that was rendered not-serviceable, there
> were two screws that could be removed and a biscuit that had holes in
> it. The petcock handle slides across the holes opening and closing them
> to get off/on/res. If you're real handy, drill the rivets out and buy a
> part for an old bike (IE: CB350) it will fit.
> Tap the holes and use screws, great cheap repair. The part is called "petcock 
> packing set"
>
> Sounds like that's what you're trying to do, not sure if Honda still sells
those kits for the older models anymore or not though. I've never had to
dig into that side of the valve.

-Kyle


On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 10:31 AM Peter N  wrote:

> There's 2 sets of gaskets in the stock 700s petcock. One are the vacuum
> side gaskets that you sent, and the other gaskets are under the selector
> knob. I found several options but the measurements don't match. Many of the
> selector gasket (the solid circular gasket with holes) are 24mm, while the
> 700s uses a 28mm gasket, or the holes are not aligned in the same
> orientation, or there's a center hole where the 700s gasket doesn't have
> one. I did order this kit from the UK and I'm not sure its going to work
> but hoping it does. I was hoping someone had a more local suggestion as I'm
> in America. I read that there's a Suzuki gasket for a bike made in the
> 60s-70s that fits but that one was equally hard to find and didn't come
> with the x-ring that goes around the selector knob anyways.
>
> This is the kit I ordered:
>
> https://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product_id=4470
> On Monday, November 22, 2021 at 11:22:10 AM UTC-5 wrench...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Hm. I replaced my gaskets and vacuum side stuff no issues. not sure why
>> it's so hard on your side. Do you have an after market petcock?
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 23, 2021 at 12:17 AM Peter Nisita  wrote:
>>
>>> no, the selector gaskets that you have to drill out the rivets to
>>> access. The link you sent is for the vacuum side rebuild kit.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 11:16 AM Drew Gormley 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 This one?


 https://www.ebay.com/itm/26776182?epid=202870801=item3653f4a5f6%3Ag%3A4vAAAOSwZKlcTce9=Year%3A1984%7CModel%3ANighthawk+700S%7CMake%3AHonda


 On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 9:34 PM Peter Nisita  wrote:

> There's no part numbers for these parts, as it as a never intended to
> be serviced. I was just looking for what other people have used. I'll give
> them an email, thanks.
>
> On Mon, Nov 22, 2021, 4:55 AM Drew Gormley 
> wrote:
>
>> Look specifically at the PART NUMBER of what you want on partzilla
>> and then order it there, or if it's not avail, email parts unlimited and
>> get the equivalent kit
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 2:57 PM Peter N  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm in New York, but the only kits that I've found online look like
>>> they won't fit. The seal under the selector is 28mm, while all the ones
>>> i've seen on ebay were 24mm and also have an extra hole in the center 
>>> while
>>> the cb700sc's doesn't have a hole? I already have the vacuum side 
>>> rebuild
>>> kit but I wanted to do both the selector knob and the vacuum. I don't 
>>> mind
>>> spending the 30 bucks or whatever it comes out to, to get the right 
>>> part.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 21, 2021 at 1:03:12 AM UTC-5 wrench...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Sure, are you in the UK?

 That looked like a UK kit.
 Yes, that's the fuel side only, there's also a vacuum diaphragm
 with an integrated weight for the supply half of the petcock on some 
 bikes.
 So the complete kits you find on Ebay are fine as well. These are 
 common
 parts for bikes that are easy to replace so kits are plentiful.

 Careful not to rip the rubber diaphragm if you find one inside,
 they need to be whole and unruptured.

 On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 8:40 AM Peter N  wrote:

>
> Well, I found this kit. Supposedly it's the complete kit.
>
>
> http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product_id=4470
> On Saturday, November 20, 2021 at 6:52:54 PM UTC-5
> wrench...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> They were the same for all honda's of that year I think. Go to
>> Partzilla and look up the part number of the kit.
>>
>> I recommend you buy the replacement petcock kits online, J & L or
>> Parts Unlimited are fine.
>>
>> Good Luck
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 20, 2021 at 11:54 PM Peter Nisita 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I just bought this bike and its been sitting for a long time. I
>>> want to rebuild 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Help removing tank on 1984 700S

[Kyle Munz]

Once you've removed the bolt lift the back of the tank and slide it
backwards and it will come off. It's just resting on two rubber bushings at
the front.
The fuel line and vacuum line should be pretty apparent if you shine a
light on the petcock. Both are going down towards the carbs.

-Kyle


On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 8:09 AM scott@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I need to change spark plugs on my 1984 700S and the dealer's parts
> counter suggested removing the gas tank to get at the plugs underneath. I
> removed the bolt at the base of the tank (near the seat), but the tank
> still seems attached at the front of the bike.
>
> The shop manual for the 700S says to also disconnect the fuel line at the
> fuel valve, and the vacuum line at the intake pipe, but there aren't clear
> pics showing where each is connected.
>
> --
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> 
> .
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1984 nighthawk 650 puffing/popping on deceleration and other issues UPDATE

[Kyle Munz]

Did you ever run it without the fuel filter?

-Kyle


On Tue, Aug 31, 2021 at 7:10 PM 'AGL' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <
nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:

>
> Alright received the compression tester today here are the results
> cylinder #1 140-145 #2 115-120 #3 135-140 #4 140-145. I added some oil to
> cylinder #2 and the psi jumped 150+ guess I've got worn out rings on #2?
> Well I'm in the market for a new bike not really in the mood to rip apart a
> motorcycle engine, don't even know where to begin.
> On Tuesday, August 24, 2021 at 8:40:14 PM UTC-7 AGL wrote:
>
>> Yeah, that could be possible since I added a fuel filter several months
>> ago. I'll try it out tomorrow and let you know if it works thanks for the
>> suggestion.
>> On Sunday, August 22, 2021 at 2:56:37 PM UTC-7 kyl...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> +1 on checking the in tank filter and petcock filter. My 650 came with a
>>> cheap inline filter the PO had installed and I had the same problem with it
>>> cutting out after a while on the freeway. Pull over and let it sit and it
>>> would start and ride again. Anything restricting fuel flow will cause this.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Aug 22, 2021, 08:58 'AGL' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <
>>> nighthaw...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
 Just ordered a leakdown and compression tester kit I'll let you know
 the results when I get my hands on it thanks for the advice
 On Saturday, August 21, 2021 at 8:48:37 PM UTC-7 wrench...@gmail.com
 wrote:

> Google aviation leakdown test.
>
> It means you need to send low psi compressed air into the cylinder,
> and listen for a leak.
>
> Eliminate valves being open, and rings gone bad.
>
> Do the test dry, or with the cylinders not oily,  and then wet, to
> find out if it is a leak down from the rings.
>
> On Sun, Aug 22, 2021 at 8:46 AM 'AGL' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>  wrote:
>
>> but I've had these issues since the beginning beside the new bogging
>> down on the highway problem
>>
>> On Saturday, August 21, 2021 at 5:44:54 PM UTC-7 AGL wrote:
>>
>>> Vacuum line is fine forgot to mention I did replace the petcock last
>>> week due to the original not flowing
>>>  properly
>>> On Saturday, August 21, 2021 at 5:42:23 PM UTC-7
>>> grahamjo...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Check the vacuum line from carb to petcock and gas cap air vent

 On Sat, Aug 21, 2021 at 8:32 PM 'AGL' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
 Lovers!  wrote:

> The bike sat for 20 something years with 14,000 miles before I got
> ahold of it I cleaned the carbs twice but didn't separate them. Now 
> it runs
> decent smells a little rich at times, but the spark plugs don't 
> indicate
> it. Sometimes when its colder, I need to give it a little throttle to 
> even
> get it started then I'll add some choke until it warms up this is 
> when it
> usually smells rich. Also, last night when I was on the highway doing 
> 70-80
> mph it bogged down and died 3 times but started right back up on the 
> side
> of the road. This is the first time I've had any issues on the 
> highway as
> I've put about 2000 miles on it so far.
>
> --
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> 
> .
>
 --
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>> send an email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com.
>>
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>> .
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1984 nighthawk 650 puffing/popping on deceleration and other issues

[Kyle Munz]

+1 on checking the in tank filter and petcock filter. My 650 came with a
cheap inline filter the PO had installed and I had the same problem with it
cutting out after a while on the freeway. Pull over and let it sit and it
would start and ride again. Anything restricting fuel flow will cause this.

On Sun, Aug 22, 2021, 08:58 'AGL' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <
nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Just ordered a leakdown and compression tester kit I'll let you know the
> results when I get my hands on it thanks for the advice
> On Saturday, August 21, 2021 at 8:48:37 PM UTC-7 wrench...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Google aviation leakdown test.
>>
>> It means you need to send low psi compressed air into the cylinder, and
>> listen for a leak.
>>
>> Eliminate valves being open, and rings gone bad.
>>
>> Do the test dry, or with the cylinders not oily,  and then wet, to find
>> out if it is a leak down from the rings.
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 22, 2021 at 8:46 AM 'AGL' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <
>> nighthaw...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> but I've had these issues since the beginning beside the new bogging
>>> down on the highway problem
>>>
>>> On Saturday, August 21, 2021 at 5:44:54 PM UTC-7 AGL wrote:
>>>
 Vacuum line is fine forgot to mention I did replace the petcock last
 week due to the original not flowing
  properly
 On Saturday, August 21, 2021 at 5:42:23 PM UTC-7 grahamjo...@gmail.com
 wrote:

> Check the vacuum line from carb to petcock and gas cap air vent
>
> On Sat, Aug 21, 2021 at 8:32 PM 'AGL' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>  wrote:
>
>> The bike sat for 20 something years with 14,000 miles before I got
>> ahold of it I cleaned the carbs twice but didn't separate them. Now it 
>> runs
>> decent smells a little rich at times, but the spark plugs don't indicate
>> it. Sometimes when its colder, I need to give it a little throttle to 
>> even
>> get it started then I'll add some choke until it warms up this is when it
>> usually smells rich. Also, last night when I was on the highway doing 
>> 70-80
>> mph it bogged down and died 3 times but started right back up on the side
>> of the road. This is the first time I've had any issues on the highway as
>> I've put about 2000 miles on it so far.
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
>> send an email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/e0ae290b-ee80-4642-b897-798cc19504b9n%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
> --
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>>>
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/ac3e728c-24bf-4111-83e0-9a60bc282c7fn%40googlegroups.com
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>>> .
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas Tank restoration

[Kyle Munz]

I went to Ace Hardware and bought rubber stoppers in various sizes for the
filler, sending unit, and petcock openings.

-Kyle


On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 12:39 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> How do you stop it splashing out via the filler cap?
>
> On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 10:51 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> I got lazy when I had to *agitate* my old 650 tank. I filled it full of
>> cleaner, strapped it down in the bed of my truck, and drove like one of the
>> Duke cousins over some bumpy roads for a day.
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 8:01 AM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Yeah, I’ve done it before a few times
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 23, 2021 at 8:29 PM David Shevlin 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yes, by shaking.  It’s a good work-out !
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Graham Rogers
>>>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 23, 2021 4:18 PM
>>>> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas Tank restoration
>>>>
>>>> Thanks David, I’ll get the supplies this week. By agitate, do you mean
>>>> shake only?
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On May 23, 2021, at 3:09 PM, David Shevlin 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> 
>>>> Graham.I considered using a commercial rust-remover
>>>> (“Evaporust”) but opted for this approach instead:
>>>>
>>>> oAdd undiluted vinegar (weak acid to solubilize rust) to the empty
>>>> tank and agitate; agitate more; *keep agitating*.then drain
>>>> after several days.  I used store-bought vinegar (5% acidity).  I
>>>> don’t believe it matters whether it’s white vinegar or cider vinegar.  I
>>>> added 2 gallons of vinegar and agitated the tank many times / day for
>>>> several days.  Between agitations, I left the tank in various orientations
>>>> such that all interior surfaces were periodically bathed in vinegar over
>>>> the days.   Drain.
>>>>
>>>> oAdd baking *soda* solution (weak base to neutralize any residual
>>>> acid) to the empty tank and agitate.  For this step, I agitated the
>>>> tank for a few minutes.  Drain.
>>>>
>>>> oAdd water to the empty tank and agitate; agitate more; *keep
>>>> agitating*then drain.For this step, I agitated / drained /
>>>> filled / agitated / drained through several cycles.  I spent ~ 15 minutes
>>>> on this step
>>>>
>>>> oAdd isopropyl alcohol (IPA; functions as a water-scavenger) to
>>>> the empty tank, agitate and drain.For this step, I used 70% IPA
>>>> (16 oz.).  Since this was a small volume relative to the tank volume, I was
>>>> careful in agitating (several minutes) in an effort to ensure that IPA came
>>>> in contact with all tank-interior surfaces and to mix with any residual
>>>> water from the previous step.  Drain.  A very minor degree of “flash-rust”
>>>> developed in some areas following this step.
>>>>
>>>> o“Blow-dry” the tank interior.  I used compressed air and a
>>>> heat-gun (low setting) on this step.  The tank interior (as observable with
>>>> a mirror and flashlight) at this point was substantially rust-free.
>>>>
>>>> oFill the tank with fresh gas.
>>>>
>>>> I’m happy with the outcome (including a functional fuel gauge) but sad
>>>> that I got myself in the situation to start with.  Perhaps it’s a
>>>> cautionary-tale that will help others (*don’t allow your tank to rust*
>>>> !).  In any case, I’m also happy to share the experience and to report that
>>>> I am back on the road !  After several years.  Side note:  I had forgotten
>>>> how *un-fun* mounting tires (front and back) is.  One, two-foot iron
>>>> broke in the process.
>>>>
>>>> David
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *Before / After Conditions:*
>>>>
>>>> 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Bonus pics:
>>>>
>>>> *Rust (and liquid) from the tank*
>>>> [image: P9031587]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *Current-status image*
>>>> [image: P7191882]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Graham Rogers
>>>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 23, 2021 1:52 PM
>>>> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.co

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas Tank restoration

[Kyle Munz]

I got lazy when I had to *agitate* my old 650 tank. I filled it full of
cleaner, strapped it down in the bed of my truck, and drove like one of the
Duke cousins over some bumpy roads for a day.

-Kyle


On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 8:01 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Yeah, I’ve done it before a few times
>
> On Sun, May 23, 2021 at 8:29 PM David Shevlin 
> wrote:
>
>> Yes, by shaking.  It’s a good work-out !
>>
>> *From:* Graham Rogers
>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 23, 2021 4:18 PM
>> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas Tank restoration
>>
>> Thanks David, I’ll get the supplies this week. By agitate, do you mean
>> shake only?
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 23, 2021, at 3:09 PM, David Shevlin  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Graham.I considered using a commercial rust-remover (“Evaporust”)
>> but opted for this approach instead:
>>
>> oAdd undiluted vinegar (weak acid to solubilize rust) to the empty
>> tank and agitate; agitate more; *keep agitating*.then drain
>> after several days.  I used store-bought vinegar (5% acidity).  I don’t
>> believe it matters whether it’s white vinegar or cider vinegar.  I added 2
>> gallons of vinegar and agitated the tank many times / day for several
>> days.  Between agitations, I left the tank in various orientations such
>> that all interior surfaces were periodically bathed in vinegar over the
>> days.   Drain.
>>
>> oAdd baking *soda* solution (weak base to neutralize any residual
>> acid) to the empty tank and agitate.  For this step, I agitated the tank
>> for a few minutes.  Drain.
>>
>> oAdd water to the empty tank and agitate; agitate more; *keep
>> agitating*then drain.For this step, I agitated / drained /
>> filled / agitated / drained through several cycles.  I spent ~ 15 minutes
>> on this step
>>
>> oAdd isopropyl alcohol (IPA; functions as a water-scavenger) to the
>> empty tank, agitate and drain.For this step, I used 70% IPA (16
>> oz.).  Since this was a small volume relative to the tank volume, I was
>> careful in agitating (several minutes) in an effort to ensure that IPA came
>> in contact with all tank-interior surfaces and to mix with any residual
>> water from the previous step.  Drain.  A very minor degree of “flash-rust”
>> developed in some areas following this step.
>>
>> o“Blow-dry” the tank interior.  I used compressed air and a heat-gun
>> (low setting) on this step.  The tank interior (as observable with a mirror
>> and flashlight) at this point was substantially rust-free.
>>
>> oFill the tank with fresh gas.
>>
>> I’m happy with the outcome (including a functional fuel gauge) but sad
>> that I got myself in the situation to start with.  Perhaps it’s a
>> cautionary-tale that will help others (*don’t allow your tank to rust*
>> !).  In any case, I’m also happy to share the experience and to report that
>> I am back on the road !  After several years.  Side note:  I had forgotten
>> how *un-fun* mounting tires (front and back) is.  One, two-foot iron
>> broke in the process.
>>
>> David
>>
>>
>> *Before / After Conditions:*
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> Bonus pics:
>>
>> *Rust (and liquid) from the tank*
>> [image: P9031587]
>>
>>
>> *Current-status image*
>> [image: P7191882]
>>
>>
>> *From:* Graham Rogers
>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 23, 2021 1:52 PM
>> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas Tank restoration
>>
>> Yes, tell me!
>>
>> On Sun, May 23, 2021 at 10:51 AM David Shevlin 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Graham...I had good success at removing rust from my 1986 NHS
>>> tank-innards.  Happy to share if you’re interested.
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>> *From:* Graham Rogers
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 23, 2021 8:57 AM
>>> *To:* Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas Tank restoration
>>>
>>> First local hardware store I walked into here had Methyl Ethyl Ketone. I
>>> set up the tank, had a pressure washer ready to go and every precaution not
>>> to get the stuff on the paint. The stuff really worked well. It softened
>>> the liner on contact and I got most of it out. It was messy and I did get a
>>> few streaks on the paint, not too bad. EMK is so strong it started to work
>>> on the plastic funnel I was using. Now To remove the rust in the tank,
>>> forget about lining it again. Thanks folks for the suggestions.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, May 19, 2021 at 5:51:44 PM UTC-4 Graham Rogers wrote:
>>>
 Thanks Nick, I’ve been trying to find a US supplier of the stuff

 On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 5:04 AM 'Nick Tampsett' via Nighthawk
 Motorcycle Lovers!  wrote:

> Hi Graham, I had the same problem last year. There were various
> remedy’s suggested to me,  but none of them worked. I then contacted a guy
> here in the UK who specialises in tank repairs. I bought a complete tank
> repair kit from him ( liner remover, rust preventative and new sealer etc

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Any references for someone to clean carbs in/around Maryland, on an '03 Nighthawk?

[Kyle Munz]

Yeah, they're similar in length. I've always stopped to double check them
every time I put the carbs on for that reason. The choke cable is a
different length and has a slightly different end, that'd be harder to mix
up.

-Kyle


On Fri, May 21, 2021 at 9:27 AM Doug Jones  wrote:

> I didn't think it was possible but the lengths on my 83 CB650SC aren't
> that different. and I did it. It took some doing and then when I twisted
> the throttle I realized I just wasted the last 35 minutes since I had to
> take them off again and swap them around.
>
> Dougjones
>
> On Fri, May 21, 2021 at 9:47 AM mike  wrote:
>
>> How is that even possible? They're different lengths?
>>
>> On Fri, May 21, 2021, 8:59 AM d.alan...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> MHillard
>>>
>>>  One word of advice,  Put a piece of color painters tape on the
>>> Front Cable before you remove it from the throttle body wheel. I didn't
>>> once and reversed them when assembling. I put them on bass-ackwards  so you
>>> didn't pull down to go fast you pushed upwards..  Also if you have access
>>> to a sonic cleaner you may want to soak them in hot water and run it in the
>>> cleaner. I put them in carb cleaner and it made the aluminum turn a dark
>>> color and when touched it gave me a dark residue on my hands.. I wouldn't
>>> recommend that but the sonic cleaner in hot water seemed to do the trick.
>>> It does take a few days to dry completely.
>>>
>>> Cheers!
>>>
>>> Dougjones
>>>
>>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 2:53:37 AM UTC-4 wrench...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 You can clean them yourself, they are easy to clean. The only difficult
 part of removing them is that you need to pour a thermos full of boiling
 water on the rubber mounts as you shift them out. They will tilt upward,
 and then you can tug them free, and pull them out of the left side of the
 frame while the cables are still attached. You need to soften the boot
 rubber before reinserting them too.

 Once off, label each bowl, then unscrew. Remove each jet inside with a
 small flat head screw driver.

 Soak the jets in cleaner, and push a thin guitar string through the
 hole all the way through each jet body.

 It's a job that takes one hour. Only learning how to remove the darned
 things and fiddling with the throttle cables takes longer.

 So long as they aren't trashed inside, the bike will run just fine.

 Good Luck

 On Thu, May 13, 2021 at 12:47 AM Kimberly Reynolds 
 wrote:

> These guys worked on my carbs on my ‘83 Nighthawk 650 several years
> ago and did a great job:
>
> http://www.myerscycle.com/
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 12, 2021, at 09:13, mike  wrote:
>
> 
> I can clean and rebuild carbs if you're able to pull them. I'm in WNY
> and may be too far for you. I have been doing nighthawk 700s carbs for
> years.
>
> On Wed, May 12, 2021, 11:09 AM mhillard  wrote:
>
>> OK... I'll admit it up front... I have neglected my Nighthawk over
>> the last few years.  No judgments... suffice it to say life has been a 
>> bit
>> complicated for a while and the bike has just not been high on my 
>> priority
>> list.  I hope to change that.
>>
>> But before I can... I need to get the carbs cleaned.  In typical
>> Nighthawk fashion, the bike will start and run with the choke on... but 
>> as
>> soon as you open the choke it dies.  I would give myself an 
>> "intermediate"
>> ability to wrench on the bike but I know my limitations... and carbs are
>> one of them.  I know some of you live around Maryland and Pennsylvania, 
>> so
>> do you happen to have a reputable resource who can clean/rebuild them for
>> me?
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 Nighthawk 650 Shaft Drive Dies After Riding For 15 minutes

[Kyle Munz]

Inline fuel filters can cause this too. They don't flow enough to keep up
with freeway riding but will idle just fine.

-Kyle


On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 9:06 AM Dave duChêne  wrote:

> No, there's a black box under the seat about 3" square
>
> On Mon, 12 Apr 2021 at 08:04, Leland Hardy <
> leland.ha...@dyslexiaawarenessfoundation.org> wrote:
>
>> Ignition module meaning ignition coils?
>>
>> Leland
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 12, 2021 at 5:43 AM Dave duChêne  wrote:
>>
>>> I had the same issue. Replacing the ignition module fixed it for me.
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 at 23:27, Leland Hardy <
>>> leland.ha...@dyslexiaawarenessfoundation.org> wrote:
>>>
 Every time I put the 1985 Honda Nighthawk 650 with shaft drive on the
 highway, after about 10 minutes in OD the bike dies as if it's run out of
 gas.  I pull over to the shoulder, wait 2-3 minute  and it starts and runs
 perfectly for another 10 - 15 minutes before dying again.  Has anyone
 experienced this?

 Any ideas?  The symptom is 100% identical to running out of your main
 gas tank and having to flip your petcock to reserve. This is deadly
 dangerous.  I had to stop on a highway with no shoulder and with big rigs
 runnin’ hard right next to me.

 Leland


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 www.DyslexiaAwarenessFoundation.org
 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Engne guard mounting hardware 85 700s (red) and decals

[Kyle Munz]

I've had decent luck with cbdecals.com in the past. Some say they don't
look exactly like OEM but they're close enough and they don't rip if you
spritz a little soapy water on the surface first.

Which engine guards did you get? There were a couple of different styles.

-Kyle


On Sun, Apr 4, 2021 at 8:17 AM gbg...@gmail.com  wrote:

> Purchased oem engine guards and had them powder coated.
>
> They did not come with any mounting hardware.
>
> Recently saw a post on another forum that the owner had ordered Honda
> 90101-get-000 bolt to mount the guards.  The picture also showed a bag of
> nuts and ? in the order.  I was not allowed to post on the site so I could
> not ask questions.  What do I need to mount the guards?
>
> Purchased used side panels, left and right, from an 84 red 700s.
>
> Panels have only one broken tab on one panel.
>
> The decals from yamatopdog on Ebay rip when you try and slide them into
> position.
>
> Their instructions were followed to a T on 3 attempts.
>
> As the 84 and 85 red decals only differ by the pinstripe, red in 84 and
> white in 85, is it possible to paint or ? the white pinstripe onto the 84
> decal?
>
> Any info would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gary
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Taller windshield

[Kyle Munz]

That looks good

-Kyle


On Tue, Dec 8, 2020 at 4:06 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Just installed this windshield on my 86 Nighthawk. Not a perfect fit but
> with a heat gun, patience and work it ‘fits’. The folks at Gustafson
> Plastics were really helpful. I couldn’t get the first one they sent to fit
> at all so they sent me a second one made from a different mold. This one is
> a much closer fit. Graham
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 84 Nighthawk Idle jumps to 3K RPMs after leaning down on its kickstand

[Kyle Munz]

My first thought too was cables.

-Kyle


On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 2:47 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Or choke cable
>
> On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 3:44 PM Billy Woodman 
> wrote:
>
>> Could the throttle cable be binding on something ? Is it when the handle
>> bars turn?
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 20, 2020, 2:43 PM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Checked for vacuum leaks around the carb boots? Synched the carbs?
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 1:07 PM 'Goblin Horn' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
>>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>>
 I haven't taken the bike out for more than 45 minutes yet but it's a
 50/50 chance every time I put the bike down on its kickstand when I get
 home the RPMs jump up to around 2-3k RPMS then settle back down. Sometimes
 it can take 5-20 seconds for the rpms to kick back down to idle what issues
 with the carb could this be? I already cleaned it twice maybe I missed some
 gunk?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] a single no start day...

[Kyle Munz]

First a warning about abusing the starter. It's not the starter motor
that's the biggest worry since that's easy to repair/replace but you really
don't want to abuse the starter chain/clutch as that's most certainly not
easy to replace or repair. Your not starting issue could be a few things
though. Fuel issues could be dirty carbs, an inline fuel filter, the vacuum
diaphragm on the petcock not actuating, etc. Electrical could be something
as simple as the kill switch which has caught all of us at some point, it's
easy enough to check for spark though. Regarding air, do you still have
your stock airbox, boots, and filter?

You can paint the chrome crashbars if you're inclined. I found an old set
of chrome hondaline crashbars in a salvage yard years ago. They were kind
of rusty so I sanded them down, ran some primer over them then just painted
them with a rattlecan and some 2000 grit wetsand between coats. They turned
out pretty decent actually.

-Kyle


On Sun, Oct 18, 2020 at 10:10 AM wilm...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hello everyone,
> I bought my beautiful '85 NH 700 on March 1st, she now has 41K on the
> clock.
> I've got 3 questions today, so thanks for any and all help.
> First two are related:
> Every single time since we hooked up, she's started on the very first go,
> until 2 days ago...
> It had been about 10 days since the last ride.
> On the first try, engine caught for a few seconds but then died, then I
> put the starter through hell for 15 minutes, and just got a few coughs, and
> couldn't believe the battery didn't seem to be weakening at all, so I just
> kept going (Sorry starter).
> Suddenly she started right up like normal.
> My only impression is she wasn't getting fuel, but I have nothing to base
> that on. Should I try spraying some starter fluid into the air box if
> there's a next time of this?
> Second part of this question: get a trickle charger for the battery, even
> though it doesn't seem to be the culprit in this case? I had planned to
> just ride her once a week through winter so I wouldn't have to worry about
> the battery
> We went for a ride yesterday, and she started on the 1st try
> Third, unrelated, question, I've been following along on the thread of the
> engine guards from eBay/Vietnam, and it seemed they had gotten good reviews
> (?), perhaps the only thing was a bit of hassle on the installation?
> I've looked on eBay, but only see them in chrome, anyone have any ideas
> for finding them in black?
> Thank you Everyone, take care,
> William
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 650SC Clutch Feel

[Kyle Munz]

Same here, I just ordered a kit off of ebay or amazon to rebuild mine. I
took pics of the slave cyl tear down process:
https://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/187/clutch-slave-cylinder/

-Kyle


On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 10:45 AM EGrider  wrote:

> *Does anyone have recommendations on where to source quality rebuild kits?
> I'm guessing Honda Genuine isn't always necessary?*
>
> I rebuilt my master and slave with kits from Emgo a few years back and
> have not had any issues since.
> On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 12:23:51 PM UTC-4 William Woodman wrote:
>
>> I'll check it out again and see. I had cleaned it a few months back when
>> I bled the clutch, but I'll do it again just to see.
>>
>> I also think once I lay the bike up for the winter I'm going to go ahead
>> and take apart the slave cylinder. I just watched this video and it seems
>> like the bike being 40 years old is probably due for a cylinder rebuild.
>> https://motorcyclemd.com/motorcycle-clutch-slave-cylinder-rebuild/
>>
>> Does anyone have recommendations on where to source quality rebuild kits?
>> I'm guessing Honda Genuine isn't always necessary?
>>
>> On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 10:44:43 AM UTC-5 kiwinPA wrote:
>>
>>> Yep, I agree with Kyle. If you’ve never cleaned the reservoir and clutch
>>> master cylinder you probably should/will have to
>>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 10:55 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>
>>>> My clutch levers have always come back to the grip but the clutch
>>>> disengages way before I get to the grip. You may need to bleed it again,
>>>> the hydraulic clutch on these bikes is notoriously difficult to get all the
>>>> air out of the line. Most of us use a mityvac to do it.
>>>>
>>>> -Kyle
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 9:36 AM William Woodman 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hey there everyone. I have a 1983 Nighthawk 650 that I've been working
>>>>> on since early this summer.
>>>>>
>>>>> So far I've not had much maintenance to do as I picked up the bike
>>>>> with relatively low miles (4700) and no mechanical issues to take care of
>>>>> besides general deferred maintenance.
>>>>>
>>>>> Oil change, brakes, fork seals and some chewed up wiring in the tail
>>>>> light harness.
>>>>>
>>>>> I've done a few mods also if anyone is interested in how they turned
>>>>> out please ask. I have changed the headlight to an LED bulb, installed
>>>>> Progressive fork springs and Progressive 430 Rear shocks.
>>>>>
>>>>> However today I'm wondering after reading the service manual that
>>>>> Honda advised it shouldn't be possible to pull the clutch lever all the 
>>>>> way
>>>>> to the grip if it is functioning correctly. Currently my bike has a clutch
>>>>> lever that I can pull all the way to the grip and disengages the clutch
>>>>> fairly close to the grip. Is this similar to other members 650sc?
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm wondering if I need to work on the clutch slave or master cylinder
>>>>> as I had changed and bled the fluid a few months ago.
>>>>>
>>>>> If anyone else could describe whether this is normal or not clutch
>>>>> feel I'd appreciate it. Thank you!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>>>> an email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/160cbb38-c3d9-4b3a-b4f8-39ffa68bdc94n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/160cbb38-c3d9-4b3a-b4f8-39ffa68bdc94n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>>> .
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>>
>&g

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 650SC Clutch Feel

[Kyle Munz]

My clutch levers have always come back to the grip but the clutch
disengages way before I get to the grip. You may need to bleed it again,
the hydraulic clutch on these bikes is notoriously difficult to get all the
air out of the line. Most of us use a mityvac to do it.

-Kyle


On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 9:36 AM William Woodman 
wrote:

> Hey there everyone. I have a 1983 Nighthawk 650 that I've been working on
> since early this summer.
>
> So far I've not had much maintenance to do as I picked up the bike with
> relatively low miles (4700) and no mechanical issues to take care of
> besides general deferred maintenance.
>
> Oil change, brakes, fork seals and some chewed up wiring in the tail light
> harness.
>
> I've done a few mods also if anyone is interested in how they turned out
> please ask. I have changed the headlight to an LED bulb, installed
> Progressive fork springs and Progressive 430 Rear shocks.
>
> However today I'm wondering after reading the service manual that Honda
> advised it shouldn't be possible to pull the clutch lever all the way to
> the grip if it is functioning correctly. Currently my bike has a clutch
> lever that I can pull all the way to the grip and disengages the clutch
> fairly close to the grip. Is this similar to other members 650sc?
>
> I'm wondering if I need to work on the clutch slave or master cylinder as
> I had changed and bled the fluid a few months ago.
>
> If anyone else could describe whether this is normal or not clutch feel
> I'd appreciate it. Thank you!
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Screen Cowl-My 85 cb700sc

[Kyle Munz]

They show up on eBay from time to time, that's where I got mine after my
wreck a few years ago.

-Kyle


On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 4:11 PM gary glick  wrote:

> Headlight fairing has a crack. Found the proper red decals. Close exam
> revealed that the screen cowl has a small crack at the bottom.  Searched
> the internet to no avail. Does anyone have a possible source for this
> piece? It is number 14 on the blow up parts diagrams, 64200-MJ1-670. Thanks
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Great to hear from other Nighthawk owners

[Kyle Munz]

Hi Jim,

There's a lot of pics on that page, which one were you referring to?


-Kyle


On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 3:38 PM Jim Hehn  wrote:

> Hi felow nighthawk lovers,
> i saw a pic. of a nighthawk that had a fairing, i copied the url;
>
> http://paulsnighthawkpages.blogspot.com/p/your-nighthawk.html)
>
> I would like to buy this fairing for my bike, does anyone know what kind
> of fairing and does it come with mounting brackets, hardware.
> I like the look of the bike, it is very similar to mine.
> Jim
>
> On Saturday, August 1, 2020, Aharv57  wrote:
>
>> On Saturday, August 1, 2020 at 8:56:20 PM UTC-4, Jim wrote:
>> > I saw the paperclip after i sent the reply,
>> > I was going to send a pic from my gallery on my phone, it will only let
>> me take a photo to attach, so i will get a couple of pics of the bike and
>> send them,
>> > Thanks
>> > Jim
>> >
>> > On Sunday, July 26, 2020, Graham Rogers  wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Great bike Jim. I had the same year and model, congratulations but
>> where’s the pic? Graham
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 5:08 PM Jim  wrote:
>> > My names jim, i just purchased a 2002 cb 750 nighthawk. I am getting
>> familar with the bike, i used to ride a honda cb 750 many years back, and
>> missed the thrill of riding. I just serviced the front brakes and put new
>> tires on the bike, it rides great. After so many years, it is a great
>> feeling to be riding again. Hope to have it for many years of riding
>> pleasure, i am looking forward to reading all your posts.
>> >
>> > Jim
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
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>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas tank filter.

[Kyle Munz]

I always tell myself it was probably already busted before I yanked it out
with a pair of pliers.

-Kyle


On Tue, Aug 4, 2020 at 11:19 AM 'nick.tamps...@btinternet.com' via
Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!  wrote:

> I know this has been posted before, but I can’t find it.
> What’s the best way to remove the gas tank filter that’s situated where
> the petcock screws in. Is it possible to remove without damaging/scrapping
> it.
> I need to seal the inside of the tank, so I need to remove the filter.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1988 Honda Magna

[Kyle Munz]

That looks good

-Kyle


On Sun, Aug 2, 2020 at 7:08 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> After working on one of these bikes (broken choke plunger), cleaning the
> carbs, etc, I tried to get the owner to sell it to me.  (I never could sync
> the carbs however, just couldn’t get a 7mm socket or offset adjustment tool
> on to the adjustment screws even with my wife holding a torch and mirror.)
> I was so impressed with the smoothness and ride. It’s easier for me to
> maneuver out of the garage than my VMax yet is still a V4. I tried to get
> the owner to sell it to me. He  was given the bike by his dad and so wants
> to keep it. However, I found one for sale a couple of hours away and bought
> it. It has (had) a few niggles here and there and have been working on
> them. Now I’m looking for a luggage rack and back rest. I found One on eBay
> for $350 . Way too much. I’m willing to buy or trade Nighthawk parts for
> one. I have a CB650SC Nighthawk luggage rack and backrest  for example.
>
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> Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Loss of power.

[Kyle Munz]

My experience with the inline filters is they don't flow enough to feed the
bike. In your case though if opening the choke helps you could have dirty
carbs since that's just an enriching circuit.

-Kyle


On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 12:02 PM 'nick.tamps...@btinternet.com' via
Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!  wrote:

> I rode 15 miles to see a friend, the bike ran really well. On returning,
> the bike lost power after 750 yards and came to a halt. I started it again
> but it was running really bad, would not rev. I managed to crawl along at
> 20-30 mph, but when climbing hills it would cut out. I opened the choke and
> this helped but still I had to crawl along. It felt like the bike was on  2
> cylinders.
> Sounds like a fuel problem, any ideas?.
> I have an in-line fuel filter and I was wondering if this wasn’t helping
> the fuel supply.
> Also, what are the advantages/ disadvantages of eliminating the vacuum
> hose from the carb.
> The bike is a 1996 cb750.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 700s fuel gauge

[Kyle Munz]

I'd say chances are better than even the problem is in the sending unit and
not the gauge.

-Kyle


On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 10:55 AM Dave duChêne  wrote:

> Clean all connections leading to the gauge first (if you haven't already ).
> Dave
>
>
> On Sun, 26 Jul 2020 at 12:14, gary glick  wrote:
>
>> About to attack the non functioning fuel gauge. I have Graham's repair
>> method for the sending unit.  If the problem is the gauge itself, are they
>> repairable?
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: How do you replace the push rod oil seal on the Honda Nighthawk 700S 1984?

[Kyle Munz]

Glad you guys figured it out, and thanks for posting the steps.

-Kyle


On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 7:23 AM David Heffner  wrote:

> I forgot two items...
>
> 7.1..Remove gear shifter, mark position of shifter on shaft for easy
> installation.
>
> 7.2..Remove clutch side front foot peg.
>
> On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 10:26:29 PM UTC-5 David Heffner wrote:
>
>> So my father, son and I decided to tackle this project... Here is what we
>> did...
>>
>> 1..Remove seat
>>
>> 2..Remove rear wheel
>>
>> 3..Remove grab rail
>>
>> 4..Remove clutch side rear shock
>>
>> 5..Remove final drive with drive shaft and swing arm
>>
>> 6..Remove universal if it did not come off with the final drive swing arm
>> assembly
>>
>> 7..Remove the rear cross shaft bearing holder
>>
>> 8..Drain engine oil
>>
>> 9..Remove small oil line that is running horizontally
>>
>> 10..Remove top and bottom banjo bolts on long oil line running
>> vertically. This will give you room to work the housing on and off.
>>
>> 11..Disconnect the electrical connection running vertically and move out
>> of the way.
>>
>> 12..Remove the side gear case housing. We used a piece of 2x4 and lead
>> shot mallet. Hit it from the top, hit it from the throttle side to clutch
>> side in rear wheel space, repeat until housing comes off.
>>
>> 13..Clean up gasket surfaces on side gear case housing and engine.
>>
>> 14..On side gear case housing remove old clutch shaft seal and replace
>> using a socket to press it in
>>
>> 15..Ensure the o-ring is still in place at the far left oil pipe in the
>> engine. Recommend replacing the o-ring...cheap insurance.
>>
>> 16..Apply light permatex to engine gasket surface this will hold the
>> gasket in place while you get the side gear case housing lined up and back
>> in place to bolt in.
>>
>> 17..Bolt side gear case housing back in. Fist tighten the three bolts
>> that are around the cross shaft bearing holder.
>>
>> 18..Reassemble in reverse order above.
>>
>> 19..Recommend replacing the banjo bolts crush washers during reassembly
>> for the oil lines
>>
>>
>> Helpful hints...
>>
>> ...Create a card board template of the gasket so you can shove the bolts
>> in it as you remove them from the housing.
>>
>> ...Use some sort of liquid wrench product on all the bolts/nuts... we
>> broke the cross shaft bearing holder housing and side gear case housing
>> where one of the four bolts went together...we were loosening the bolt not
>> tightening it! Thank goodness we had a donor bike to scavenge parts from.
>>
>> ...Do not tighten the most forward small bolt of the housing more than 8
>> ft lbs. We broke ours off in the engine and ended up breaking part of the
>> engine case trying to easy out the broken bolt.
>>
>> ...Lining up the drive shaft and universal was not working so we had to
>> separate the drive shaft and final drive swing arm and mount them
>> separately. To get the splines to line up it, it took to two people one
>> moving the drive shaft at the rubber cover near the universal and the other
>> holding up the final drive housing.
>> On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 4:51:00 PM UTC-5 David Heffner wrote:
>>
>>> How do you replace the push rod oil seal Honda nighthawk 700S 1984?
>>> We were able to remove the old seal put now we cant figure out how to
>>> put the new one in.
>>> Can it be installed from the out side or do I have to take about the
>>> case and install it from the inside?
>>> Can't find the replacement process in the Honda manual.
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Nighthawk 700s-Engine crash bars

[Kyle Munz]

Well, I had the simpler bars on when I crashed and they did their job. The
exhaust, mirror, and fairing were destroyed but the engine didn't get
scratched. My jacket and gloves did their job too.

-Kyle


On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 11:38 AM gary glick  wrote:

> Thanks for the education. Is there any negative to the simpler style bars?
> Can the p clamps be obtained if they do not come with the simpler style
> bars?
>
> On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 10:17 AM Telefix 700s 
> wrote:
>
>> Those are very hard to find.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Nighthawk 700s-Engine crash bars

[Kyle Munz]

I've fixed dented crash bars before with bondo and filler since I planned
to paint them black anyways and they turned out pretty decent. The mounting
hardware is mostly bolts and metal bands. If you're handy and have some
scrap metal you could probably make your own but it may be worth it to wait
for a set that comes with the hardware.

-Kyle


On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 8:40 AM gary glick  wrote:

> Looking for engine highway crash bars.  On Ebay there are bars specific
> for the 84-86 700s. Are they any good? They are from Vietnam.  There are
> also a used one with a dent on on side. I know they can be re-chromed but
> can the dent be removed? They do not come with mounting hardware.  Can
> mounting hardware be obtained or a substitute be made? Does anyone have
> crash bars for sale?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] email a NHL member on the map?

[Kyle Munz]

https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/nighthawk_lovers/LZ31wDyDGgc

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020, 14:09 mike  wrote:

> Link me to the map?
>
> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020, 3:08 PM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> I don’t know. Easy to just say ‘here I am’
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 2:05 PM mike  wrote:
>>
>>> Map?
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020, 10:30 AM Graham Rogers 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Just tell us where you are and you’ll have done it

 On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 10:00 AM William M  wrote:

> Good morning All,
> is it possible to attempt to email a NH neighbor from the map?
> Thanks, William
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Life here on Nighthawk Lovers

[Kyle Munz]

Hey William and welcome to the group!
I'm glad you're enjoying your 700S, they do spoil you to just about
anything else. Regarding your questions:
* I don't know if the 650 exhaust will fit, I had both at one point and a
lot of parts do swap like coils and brake switches but never tried the
exhaust. My gut feeling though is that they wouldn't fit, there's enough
difference between the bikes that I don't think the rear bolts would line
up, I could be wrong though. After owning both though I can tell you the
700S has a much nicer exhaust note which you mentioned liking about your
current bike. I wouldn't take a chance on messing that up.
* No idea if the rear drum brake can be swapped out, I've never found it to
be insufficient though, the dual front disks do most of the work.
* Taller windscreen, I've seen some in photos so I did a quick google
search and found this company that claims to make them. I don't have any
experience with them to know if they're any good or not though:
https://bikescreen.com/products/honda-nighthawk

-Kyle


On Sat, Jun 27, 2020 at 12:04 PM William M  wrote:

> Hello Paul and All,
> wonderful forum, thank you.
> I am the proud new owner of a '85 700S, 39K mi., and in excellent shape,
> thanks to the previous owner.
> Since March 1st I have put just over 1K mi. on her, wonderful!
> She even has a name now, Celine; we are in love already.
> She's my 5th bike (I am now old), 4th Honda (1 Suzuki was enough!),
> and biggest bike yet; at first I thought she was too much for me at my
> age, and I still think
> that (maybe I should have imported a Honda Wave 125 from Thailand, also a
> winner), but we are getting
> along better, and I am trying to remain slow and cautious, but she makes
> that hard, since she's
> not really made for Grampa driving.
> I would have bought her just so I could hear her engine purr, love that
> sound!
> My only previous post, a couple mo. ago, was about a plastic rattling
> sound at low speed, quite annoying to me;
> I figured it was coming somewhere from the fairing area, so I stuffed a
> black sock in-between the windscreen and
> the top of the counsel/headlight housing, eureka! Not very professional
> but it did the job.
>
> Eventually, the only thing for sure I would like to change is to go to the
> chrome exhaust that I see on the
> '83 650, can someone tell me if that fits on the '85 700S?
> Two other thoughts of possible changes also are: is it possible to mount a
> Euro models rear disc brake on
> our US drum model?
> And, while I like the mini-bikini, I wish the actual windscreen went high
> enough to do some good;
> anyone have some suggestions on that?
>
> Thank you again Paul and everyone else,
> sincerely, William
> Portland Oregon
>
> On Wednesday, January 16, 2008 at 8:12:44 AM UTC-8, Paul LeBoutillier
> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> Whenever people come together to discuss anything there are bound to be
>> those who rub us the wrong way. This happens for a myriad of reasons, but
>> it WILL happen. But it is NOT a good reason to unsubscribe from the group.
>> If someone's responses bug you, politely direct your conversations to
>> others and if that special someone responds to your post, go ahead and
>> exercise your right to click the delete button.
>>
>> Also, if there are issues with someone that you feel need to brought to
>> my attention, *by all means* contact me OFF the group by using the
>> address: pa...@hondanighthawks.net . I will look into the complaints and
>> deal with the person privately.
>>
>> *Please do NOT confront users in front of the entire group*. If you have
>> a complaint about the way someone has posted/responded, go ahead and email
>> that person privately and explain what you felt was inappropriate. If you
>> don't get a satisfactory response, email me.
>>
>> Can people be too caustic in their responses and appear over-critical.
>> Sure. Can others be too sensitive and peevish? Yup. But just remember this:
>> email is an absolutely AWFUL way to determine someone's demeanor. It lacks
>> ALL the elements of verbal emphasis and inflection that help us to
>> determine someone's mood or intent. Therefore it is VERY easy to mis-read
>> someone's intent and heart.
>>
>> So, once again, if you FEEL you're getting negative vibes from someone's
>> posts...*email that person privately*. Confront in love and explain the
>> offence. Let's settle things in a way that WE would want them settled if we
>> were the one in the wrong.
>>
>> But whatever you do...DON'T LEAVE. We need you! :)
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> P.S. If you feel you absolutely must leave the group, just remember that
>> every single message that you receive contains a footer with instructions
>> for doing this yourself.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Engine highway crash bars-85 700s NH and repairing fuel gauge sending unit

[Kyle Munz]

Graham posted a fix for the sending unit a few years ago. I tried it on my
old 650 and it worked.

It’s a relatively easy fix - maybe. Drain the gas tank and remove the seat.
> Disconnect the fuel sensor wire at the connector under the seat. Thread it
> back towards the tank so it’s free to come out with the tank. Disconnect
> the fuel line and the vacuum line at the petcock after unbolting the tank
> from the frame. That way you can lift the tank enough to make disconnecting
> those lines easier. Then lift and pull back the tank to free it from the
> rubber grommets in the front. You may need to do a little wiggling. Now
> place the tank upside down on a soft surface. I have a towel on a sponge
> pad/mat on my work bench for this purpose. Undo the 4 ten mm bolts holding
> the fuel sensor in place. There is a big O ring under the plate to seal it.
> Gently lift the plate and the arm with the fuel sensor on the end, out of
> the tank. You have to kind of turn it as you pull it out. Do it all gently
> and you will see how it comes out and goes back in.
> Once out you will probably see that the whole thing is probably rusted
> somewhat and the arm may even be frozen in place if yours is reading 100%
> full. At the end of the arm is the actual fuel sensor mechanism. It is
> protected by a metal shield. You can pry that off carefully with a cutting
> knife blade or similar, exposing the copper wires. The sensor works by the
> contact of the wires to the pickup. You will easily see how it works. It
> stops working because of corrosion and the pickup arm losing its tension
> against the wires. You can carefully clean the wires and the pickup. I use
> sand paper on the pick up, a small nylon brush on the wires if they aren’t
> too bad. Then re-establish the tension on the arm, a little careful bending
> so that the pickup is always in contact with the wires. I clean up the
> whole thing with a wire brush as much as I can. There you go. Put the
> shield back on, if you can, and reinstall the sensor in the tank.
> Before you put the tank back on the bike, a little grease on those two
> rubber grommets makes it easier. graham
>

-Kyle


On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 5:07 PM gary glick  wrote:

> The prior owner thinks the malfunction in the fuel  gauge is the sending
> unit.
>
> No new units available.
>
> The fuel gauge sending unit is what I am referring to.
>
> It might be the gauge itself, only quoting the prior owner at this point.
>
> Thanks
>
> On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 5:38 PM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Are you talking about fuel gauge sending unit or ?
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 4:46 PM gary glick  wrote:
>>
>>> Hold out for good used ones? There are bars on Ebay for about $200
>>> delivered from Vietnam.  Any body have any opinions on their quality-both
>>> strength, fit and prognosis on the chrome staying chrome?
>>>
>>> Any possibility of repairing a failed sending unit?
>>> If so then who, how or where?
>>> Thanks
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 85 700s red-Need right side cover-Best Led headlight bulb recommendation-Hondaline (or good quality recommendation) engine guard-was hondaline chrome in color?

[Kyle Munz]

All of those things can be hard to find. I found a few of them just by
scouring eBay and local salvage yards. The right sidecover may be the
hardest thing on your list, at least finding one with all its tabs.

-Kyle


On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 8:30 PM gary glick  wrote:

> Waiting for my bike to be delivered.  Also looking for an owners manual.
> Tool kit would not be a bad idea also. Thanks.  Gary
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Nighthawk 650: year of manufacture query

[Kyle Munz]

Could that PC be an RC? According to this motorcycle VIN site I found RC11
would be a 1983 CS650 C Custom.
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/honda-parts/honda-model-prefix

-Kyle


On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 7:17 AM Pat Hehir  wrote:

> Hi Paul I just bought a Nighthawk 650, for restoration,
>
> it needs some work, mainly a respray as the colour has been changed from
> red
>
> to a very badly sprayed black. I think it is a 1983 model as the original
>
> colour was red, (wineberry candy red) I think from the info I have got on
>
> the net. I bought the bike without any documentation and it does not have a
>
> license plate, the indication label on the left side of the bike has been
>
> removed. The No stamped on the right side is PC112103611 and the Engine No
>
> 1s *101245* . I am in Ireland and I want to register this bike so that I
>
> can legally get it on the road, Is it possible to get the original details
>
> for this bike. I have checked with the relevant departments in Ireland, but
>
> there is no history of it been registered in this country, from the details
>
> that I provided. I would appreciate any help you could give with this
>
> query. Thanking you Pat Hehir
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Carburetors synch tool

[Kyle Munz]

That looks pretty good for a DIY setup.

-Kyle


On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 12:21 PM Gilles H  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Just sharing the setup I use, I am not providing web shortcuts as they
> eventually do not work anymore.
>
> Youtube has good carb synch tutorials.
>
> Material:
>
> -10 ft 5mm ID fish tank tubing.
> -4 valve fish tank air supply manifold.
> -3 hexagon head screws 5mm X 0.8 pitch X 15mm long
> -one vacuum gauge with 5mm or 3/16 barb fitting
> -one 60cc syringe for fuel supply.
>
> The hex screws need to be drilled through 3/32 dia.
> The head rounded to 5mm dia.
>
> The manifold makes it easy to check each cyl individually.
> Keep all valves closed to begin.
> Open slowly no. 2 first, note vacuum value, close valve.
> Check the three others one at a time.
>
> Move the fuel tube to the right side of the frame and insert syringe. It
> will empty quite slowly.
>
> Reminder - watch youtube tutorials, it will answer any question you might
> have.
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My two Nighthawks

[Kyle Munz]

Hi Jan,

You can find out about part compatibility by looking up the part numbers on
a site like Partzilla.
For example, if the part# you're looking for is 33120-MJ1-670, you have to
find one on another bike with the same center code "MJ1". Now you can
search the other similar models on Partzilla to find one that uses that
same center code.

-Kyle


On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 8:49 AM Jan Vaes  wrote:

> Hello
> I have a nighthawk 550  1984.and the problem is my spark unit is broke.
> Can sombody help me its typeTID14-15A ME5.
> Or can fit some other type?
> Pleace help me i mis my bike.
> Grt jakke (Belgium)
>
> Op di 2 jun. 2020 3:40 PM schreef Kyle Munz :
>
>> Welcome Robert, and thanks for the photo!
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 8:30 PM Robert Spraker 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> My 1983 650 SC that i just picked up and my 1994 custom 250.  Love these
>>> bikes.
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My two Nighthawks

[Kyle Munz]

Welcome Robert, and thanks for the photo!

-Kyle


On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 8:30 PM Robert Spraker  wrote:

> My 1983 650 SC that i just picked up and my 1994 custom 250.  Love these
> bikes.
>
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> .
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Aftermarket parts

[Kyle Munz]

Hello and welcome to the group. I had to replace mine in the past but
always went back with OEM, they're still pretty available. I've seen some
adjustable aftermarket ones on other bikes but don't know what brands they
were. If you take your bike to a shop they may let you try on a few
different ones to see what works best though.

-Kyle


On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 9:42 PM Isaac Fabela 
wrote:

> Hello, I recently picked up a 85 cb650.  I’m trying to update the clutch,
> and brake levers. Does anyone know any websites that offer new styles for
> these levers? Or are they mostly universal fits.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: #4 cylinder not firing

[Kyle Munz]

I'll help you hijack it Glenn. The one I bought years ago is made by Emgo,
I think I ordered it from Amazon or eBay but you can find them online
everywhere.

-Kyle


On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 6:14 AM EGrider  wrote:

>  Guys, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I think I'm ready to invest
> in a proper store-bought sync tool. If you think you made a good purchase,
> can you take a minute to tell me which one you bought? Thanks, Glenn
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 10 Years Ago Today

[Kyle Munz]

I found it, you joined 2/26/12.

-Kyle


On Wed, Apr 29, 2020 at 1:59 PM EGrider  wrote:

> Oh, OK. I just remember that when Allen Thomas passed, Paul told us when
> he joined the group. I didn't know if you could see that like Paul, but I
> guess not. Or maybe Paul knew that some other way.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Definitely charging issues!!

[Kyle Munz]

Make sure you have a known good and charged battery first. These bikes
don't begin to charge the battery until 2500-3000 RPMs.

-Kyle


On Fri, Apr 17, 2020 at 5:31 PM Ryan Blaney  wrote:

> So I just got a 1983 Honda Nighthawk cb650. It will run when i have it
> hooked up to jumper cables but as soon as i disconnect them it dies. Not
> sure if it's a rectifier issue or a rotor issue.  If someone with more
> knowledge than me has a better idea I would be grateful.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH restorod progress

[Kyle Munz]

Looks good. I'm a fan of the stock mirrors myself. I never thought the
stock blinkers matched these bikes but I definitely like the square mirrors
and headlights.

-Kyle


On Thu, Apr 16, 2020 at 11:55 AM Donny Ravioli  wrote:

> Thought I'd give one more update. About a month ago I took her out for a
> ride and she rode like crap. Having just rebuilt the carbs I figured it was
> a fuel issue, but it was strange... as if the hp would kick full on, then
> instantly drop to sputter, then on, then off, etc... this happened up and
> down the RPM range. As I thought about it I figured it might be a spark
> issue so I went ahead and tried to replace the plugs.
>
> I broke the last one in the head.
>
> After trying EZ outs of different sizes (quality square edge ones... that
> I ended up breaking in the stuck threads) I knew it was time to take the
> head off. I ended up using a time-sert to fix it and wow, those are easy to
> use!
>
> Fast forward a month and she was finished last Friday with a successful 5
> minute ride. Saturday I went and got gas (to make sure she would restart
> somewhere other than my house) and on Sunday I went for an hour ride. The
> last few pics in the album are from Sunday. Note: I couldn't see anything
> out of those mirrors so the stock ones went back on after the ride.
>
>
> https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPeX4ga7jU0evbyfLh5kZHJwOR-FCKNCQb0bpZoOjqev-oarb01mV4zeWIuEX1C0w?key=NjhSRmZTMmVSNVVWNWt1bHRqWVhOTEJRZ3JMRVlR
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Cold Header pipe

[Kyle Munz]

How long did you let it run for? It can take a while for them to all warm
up. Did you sync the carbs after cleaning them?


-Kyle


On Tue, Feb 25, 2020 at 1:42 PM 'nick.tamps...@btinternet.com' via
Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!  wrote:

> 1996 750 NH.
> I’ve just put the carbs back on after completely stripping and cleaning
> them, new O rings ( there was a leak ). Cleaned with carb cleaner and blown
> out with compressed air.
> Started the bike and after a couple of minutes it was idling nicely, but
> the number 1 header was cold. Thinking it could be the plug, I pulled the
> plug cap and the engine stalled. Put the cap back on and it was fine.
> I was quite meticulous with the carb cleaning, so I’m hoping that the jets
> and passageways are completely clean.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] engine fume vent box that runs from behind the cylinders to the air box...........

[Kyle Munz]

I'm not sure about the 250s but the older bikes have a tube hanging down
with a plug hose-clamped to the end.

-Kyle


On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 8:38 PM burrpenick  wrote:

> I think this was only used on the older 250 NHawks- how can I make sure
> the line going to the airbox is not plugged. I can see the small box, but
> how do you get it open/off?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Charging/Electrical Issue

[Kyle Munz]

There are steps in the shop manual for testing the R/R, it should be tested
before just being replaced. If it does test bad I think we all pretty much
agree that Rick's has the best replacement parts.
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

-Kyle


On Fri, Nov 29, 2019 at 11:55 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Hey fellow owners!
> I have a question (just to validate my assumption). Recently I went on a
> few rides that lasted for an hour or so (and I had to stop and turn the
> bike on and off for quite a few times). Well the battery that was fully
> charged when leaving the house would drop down to 11V and the bike would
> not start.
> The bike starts right up no problem.
> By the way it's acting, it might be the regulator/rectifier not charging
> the battery.
> I would like to ask if you guys have any recommendations on a replacement
> part that is a more modern (maybe two in one)?
> Thank you in advance.
> Jenya
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Ol' Yeller does Baja

[Kyle Munz]

I was out of town for at least one of your passes through Houston and I
took a more northerly route than you did so we wouldn't have met up on the
road. I went through Roswell on the way out and Amarillo (by morning) on
the way back.

-Kyle


On Wed, Oct 23, 2019 at 12:28 PM EGrider  wrote:

> Thanks, Kyle. I thought about you as I cruised through Houston - both ways.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ol' Yeller does Baja

[Kyle Munz]

Great video, looks like we were on the road to AZ at about the same time. I
went by Subaru rather than bike though and avoided I-10 this time around
and took back roads the whole way.

-Kyle


On Wed, Oct 23, 2019 at 8:31 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> I remember it well, Graham
>
> On Wed, Oct 23, 2019 at 8:35 AM EGrider  wrote:
>
>> You old-timers will remember when I used to post pics of my cross-country
>> adventures on my '96 Nighthawk. Well I pulled her out of mothballs and put
>> tags and insurance on her for one more adventure. The old girl never gave
>> me a moment's trouble. The full slideshow is here in case anyone is
>> curious. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1F0sNctjo8=youtu.be
>>
>> Glenn
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] LED indicators

[Kyle Munz]

In my opinion adding resistors misses the point of upgrading to LEDs and
you might as well stick with regular bulbs, so I would definitely recommend
swapping out the relay. That said, I don't have a 90s bike so unfortunately
I can't tell you which one to order, just wanted to add my opinion.

-Kyle


On Thu, Oct 17, 2019 at 4:14 AM 'nick.tamps...@btinternet.com' via
Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!  wrote:

> 1996 Nighthawk. Changing my indicators to LED. I’m not familiar with LED,
> so can somebody point me in the right direction as to what type ( wattage,
> size etc ) I will need. Also, some people say use resistors, others say
> change the relay. Is there a straight swap relay that fits the NH that will
> give the correct pulse rate.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signalcancel unit

[Kyle Munz]

Yeah, I've seen that on the wiring diagram before too and wondered about it.

-Kyle


On Wed, Oct 9, 2019 at 4:05 PM Darin Hatton  wrote:

> I turn mine off too, when I remember. I know I'm looking in the right book
> but it doesn't mention the unit anywhere I've found other than in the
> wiring diagram
>
> On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 4:59 PM Darin Hatton  wrote:
>
>> Thanks kyle, didn't know they had one till I saw this in wiring diagram.
>> Was just wondering if I could make it operable or replce
>> On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 4:55 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> I don't think the 700S has an automatic cancel, at least mine doesn't. I
>>> just press the switch to turn it off.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 15:51 Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>>
>>>> After much looking in the factory service manual for my 700s I still
>>>> cannot find any info on the turn signal cancel unit , let alone find it on
>>>> my bike. Turn signals don't turn off by themself. Anyone have a pic of
>>>> where it is located on 85 700s nighthawk? I'm afraid previous owner may
>>>> have removed ? Thanks in advance
>>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signalcancel unit

[Kyle Munz]

I don't think the 700S has an automatic cancel, at least mine doesn't. I
just press the switch to turn it off.

On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 15:51 Darin Hatton  wrote:

> After much looking in the factory service manual for my 700s I still
> cannot find any info on the turn signal cancel unit , let alone find it on
> my bike. Turn signals don't turn off by themself. Anyone have a pic of
> where it is located on 85 700s nighthawk? I'm afraid previous owner may
> have removed ? Thanks in advance
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starter doesn't work...oh wait, it does

[Kyle Munz]

If the clutch switch on the 90s bikes is anything like the brake switch on
the 80s bikes, they can be taken apart, cleaned, and repaired.
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=647

-Kyle


On Sat, Sep 21, 2019 at 6:30 AM EGrider  wrote:

> Quick update for anyone who may experience what I did. Changing the
> neutral switch fixed the sometimes yes/ sometimes no problem for starting.
> The neutral light always comes on and the bike always starts now. However,
> it must still be in neutral to start. My local bike shop says this is
> simply a bad clutch switch on the handlebar. I ordered one of those but it
> hasn't arrived yet.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

[Kyle Munz]

Agreed. No particular brand but I've got a bucket of generic wheel bearing
grease from some autoparts store that I've been using for years.

-Kyle


On Fri, Sep 20, 2019 at 10:31 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:

> Perfect advice above!
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starter doesn't work...oh wait, it does

[Kyle Munz]

That does sound different. It's a rotary switch with a half dozen contacts
on the 80s bikes. I had to take it apart and clean them all up then bend
the spring a little to make it work again. Cabo sounds fun, as long as this
heat wave finally breaks.

-Kyle


On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 9:07 PM EGrider  wrote:

> Kyle,that sounds pretty different. The 90s bikes have no gear indicator,
> and the neutral switch has a single bullet connector. I added some
> dielectric grease and took it for a ride to heat it up. Better, but the
> neutral light still went off right after coming on sometimes. I went ahead
> and ordered a new switch; let's see if that changes anything.
>
> I'm planning a trip to Cabo San Lucas and I don't want to take the PC, so
> I brought Ol' Yeller out of moth balls.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starter doesn't work...oh wait, it does

[Kyle Munz]

I'm not sure about the 90s bikes, but on the 80s bike the clutch switch is
a simple 2 post job and easy to test. The gear indicator switch, which
includes the neutral indicator, is also pretty simple to test with a
multimeter. Sometimes they get gunked up and need to be cleaned out. Again,
no idea what the 90s bikes actually have going on there but I assume it's
something similar.

-Kyle


On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 12:15 PM EGrider  wrote:

> I'll follow up my own post and say that the issue seems to be a faulty
>> neutral indicator. When the problem occurs, the neutral indicator light
>> refuses to come on even when the bike is in neutral. Putting the side stand
>> down stops the motor at that time.
>>
>
> Now, one should be able to start the engine in even when it is in gear by
> pulling in the clutch, but my bike stopped doing that.
>
> This is not the first Honda I've had that needed to be in neutral to start.
>
> Has anyone fixed that problem? What caused it? Does this also point to a
> faulty neutral indicator light?
>
> Glenn
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Oil is leaking from the rubber (half-circle) gaskets under the valve cover.

[Kyle Munz]

Those have come up in this group a few times. I think the part number is
12331-ME5-010 but double check first. Some people have tried reinforcing
the old ones with black permatex but if they're shrunk or cracked you're
better off just replacing them.

-Kyle


On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 8:58 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Anyone can help?
>
> On Wednesday, August 14, 2019 at 4:01:10 PM UTC-4, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>
>> Would anyone know or have a part number for these? See pic. I did change
>> the gasket already and hoped that a small leak would stop. But it did not -
>> so I think it's those little suckers. It is the ones that are on the header
>> side of the engine (front). The ones on the carb side do not leak.
>> Thanks, jenya
>>
>> PS: Here is how she sounds and idles after all the issues I had before
>> had been addressed. See video here:
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ny0umBX6ltxHT3JZMhvfMYNDJsDx-qp-/view?usp=sharing
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Hey loud knocking from the front of my bike on my ride to work

[Kyle Munz]

Those bikes are known to have some slop in the timing chain die to a weak
tensioner spring. I don't know how to check what caused it to suddenly get
louder though.

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 17:35 logan vandam  wrote:

> 84 cb650sc usually has a little tic in front but on my way to work it was
> really loud hollow knocking sound. Didn't seem to do it in lower rpms so I
> road in fourth to get to where I needed to be. I stopped and put oil in it
> thinking that may help but nothing. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Kyle Munz]

I don't remember off hand but it's in the service manual. I just posted a
link to those in another thread.

On Mon, Aug 5, 2019, 11:06 Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Good morning,
> What should be a gap for the new set of the NGK standard spark plugs?
> Thanks again.
> J
>
> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:58:13 PM UTC-4, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>
>> I did - and it was firing when against the engine block.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 2, 2019, at 4:29 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan <
>> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>>
>> I meant "ran the engine with one spark plug wire removed"
>>
>> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 1:27:04 PM UTC-7, Holger Selover-Stephan
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Good advice from Graham. My money is fuel not getting to the cylinder.
>>> If you ran the engine with one spark plug removed from a working cylinder
>>> and you pulled that plug you should see unburned gas on plug and inside the
>>> jug. You reported a dry plug, so the cylinder isn’t supplied with fuel.
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Picture of my 1983 NH 650

[Kyle Munz]

I've sold my 650 so I can't check everything you're asking but everything
should be pretty well centered on the bike.  You can check if any parts are
missing by comparing what you have to the service manuals. If you don't
have one PDFs are available here:
https://app.box.com/v/motorcyclemanuals
https://office0850.wixsite.com/hondanighthawks/helpful-links

Also, a trick for checking alignment is to get two florescent light tubes
(they're extremely straight). Hold the tube against the side of the back
tire at two points with the loose end going towards the front of the bike.
Measure the gap between the tube and the front wheel. Then do the same
thing on the other side, the gap should be the same, if it's not something
is askew.


-Kyle


On Sun, Aug 4, 2019 at 4:32 PM aajawo  wrote:

> Hi All-
>
> I'm hoping someone familiar with the 1983 Nighthawk 650 CB650SC can answer
> a few questions about my 1983.
>
> Can folks see the pictures at the link I provided below?
>
> Link to Aaron's 1983 Nighthawk 650 pics
> 
>
> Is it normal for the rear wheel to appear offset to the left relative to
> the rear fender?  An old Honda tech told me it is normal, but it just seems
> weird to me.
>
> Is it normal for the tire to be closer to the left shock spring thank to
> the right shock spring?  (By about 1/4")
>
> Is it normal for the sidestand to hit and push up the footpeg?
>
> Any idea why my center stand lever arm may be hitting the left muffler?
>
> Is it normal for the carbs on the 1 and 3 cylinders to have the float bowl
> drain facing left and 1 and 4 facing right?
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Kyle Munz]

Don't go ordering a replacement fuse block yet, we haven't determined if
your current one is bad or if there's another cause for your bike's
electronics dying. Considering they all worked before and it was some
jostling and and unplugging that led to the current situation it's likely
that everything is fine and just got plugged back in improperly or needs to
be reseated.
As far as replacing with a non-OEM or relocating it under the seat...
Either way you're making drastic changes to the wiring harness at that
point. Wires would have to be extended and/or reterminated for that. I
haven't really looked into doing that myself to say what's involved. Maybe
it will reach as-is, or maybe you need to build a new harness from scratch,
I couldn't say.

-Kyle


On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 11:16 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> A question - if the fuse box is no good, can I install one of those new
> fuse boxes and replace the old one? The only difficulty is the fact that
> all the plastic connectors from the ignition, the gages, etc. plug into the
> original fuse box.
> How would I go about relocating the fuse box/panel to under the seat
> location?
> Thanks again.
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:42 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> I completely disassembled the fuseblock on my old 650 to clean and
>> rebuild it. The problem is the female spade connectors on the plugs get
>> loose and no longer grip the metal bars inside the block. I pulled the bars
>> out and sanded them to knock off any grime or oxidation, and used a small
>> screwdriver to bend the connectors inside the plugs inward so they made
>> firm contact with the bars again. I've got pics on my blog:
>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 9:34 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Kyle, I did check the fuse block and everything is plugged in fine (I
>>> actually unplugged every connector going into the fuse block one by one)
>>> and nothing seems loose - UNLESS something inside the fuse block melted or
>>> came undone. What should my next step be? Thanks for a speedy reply.
>>> Jenya
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>
>>>> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and
>>>> the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires
>>>> it's possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
>>>> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
>>>> fuseblock.
>>>>
>>>> -Kyle
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Power no more...
>>>>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting
>>>>> and running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the
>>>>> single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires
>>>>> from the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did
>>>>> put on the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work
>>>>> (brackets were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original
>>>>> components back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon
>>>>> turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>>>>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all
>>>>> the connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
>>>>> insulation.
>>>>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses
>>>>> seem to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>>>>> Questions:
>>>>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
>>>>> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
>>>>> power completely off?
>>>>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
>>>>> have no power?
>>>>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>>>>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
>>>>> coming back on?
>>>>>
>>>>> Appreciate any feedback.
>>>>> Jenya
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving ema

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Kyle Munz]

I completely disassembled the fuseblock on my old 650 to clean and rebuild
it. The problem is the female spade connectors on the plugs get loose and
no longer grip the metal bars inside the block. I pulled the bars out and
sanded them to knock off any grime or oxidation, and used a small
screwdriver to bend the connectors inside the plugs inward so they made
firm contact with the bars again. I've got pics on my blog:
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166

-Kyle


On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 9:34 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Kyle, I did check the fuse block and everything is plugged in fine (I
> actually unplugged every connector going into the fuse block one by one)
> and nothing seems loose - UNLESS something inside the fuse block melted or
> came undone. What should my next step be? Thanks for a speedy reply.
> Jenya
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and
>> the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires
>> it's possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
>> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
>> fuseblock.
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Power no more...
>>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting
>>> and running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the
>>> single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires
>>> from the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did
>>> put on the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work
>>> (brackets were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original
>>> components back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon
>>> turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the
>>> connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
>>> insulation.
>>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
>>> to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>>> Questions:
>>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
>>> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
>>> power completely off?
>>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
>>> have no power?
>>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
>>> coming back on?
>>>
>>> Appreciate any feedback.
>>> Jenya
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>> .
>>
>
>
> --
> Jenya Spektor
> 917.202.3080
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Kyle Munz]

The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and the
plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires it's
possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
fuseblock.

-Kyle


On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Power no more...
> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting and
> running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the single
> all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires from
> the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did put on
> the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work (brackets
> were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original components back
> on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon turning the
> ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the
> connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
> insulation.
> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem to
> be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
> Questions:
> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
> power completely off?
> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to have
> no power?
> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from coming
> back on?
>
> Appreciate any feedback.
> Jenya
>
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> .
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1983 Nighthawk

[Kyle Munz]

Great job

-Kyle


On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 12:21 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Everything! Brakes, clutch, fork seals, turn signals, carbs, fuse block
> (actually I add thickness to the fuses to get the necessary contact),
> clean, clean, clean and buff, paint the engine, sand and polish the valve
> cover. The exhausts and mufflers alone were in pristine shape.
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 1:03 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> Wow, what all did you have to do to it?
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave D  wrote:
>>
>>> NICE!!!
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 8:15 AM Graham Rogers <
>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Back from the dead, sat under tree for 5 years
>>>>
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>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1983 Nighthawk

[Kyle Munz]

Wow, what all did you have to do to it?

-Kyle


On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave D  wrote:

> NICE!!!
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 8:15 AM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Back from the dead, sat under tree for 5 years
>>
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>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 700S headlight not working.

[Kyle Munz]

I had that once where the fuse tested good when I put the leads on both
ends but the bike still wasn't running. Turned out the fuse was physically
falling apart.
The element hadn't blown but the end caps were falling off. When I placed
the leads on both ends it was holding it together and it tested good, but
that's not
how the fuse block holds it.

-Kyle


On Thu, Jun 13, 2019 at 9:12 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Summer project.
>
> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019 at 10:11 PM Darin Hatton 
> wrote:
>
>> Busy, busy. Good luck with it
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 10:09 PM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Next project is an 83 650 Nighthawk, been sitting out in the weather for
>>> about 8 years.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019 at 9:29 PM Darin Hatton 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Glad to hear kiwi. I know how frustrating some electrical problems  can
 be.  Bike looks great 

 On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 8:53 PM Graham Rogers 
 wrote:

> I heard that!
>
> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019 at 8:42 PM Tommy Hill 
> wrote:
>
>> Sorry...
>>
>>
>> Ha ha ha
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 700S headlight not working.

[Kyle Munz]

I always throw the multimeter on parts I swap out just so I can know
exactly how they're failing. A lot of these old parts can be cleaned up and
rebuilt without replacing too.

-Kyle


On Tue, Jun 11, 2019 at 10:59 AM Holger Selover-Stephan <
hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:

> Good! Just trying to think of stuff I sometimes overlook. So are you
> getting good voltage at high/low beam switch? That and the starter switch
> seem to be exposed to the elements the most, and see the most mechanical
> use. You could also hot wire it at the switch and see if that does anything.
>
> > On Jun 11, 2019, at 8:53 AM, Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
> >
> > Yes and yes. I have another 700S that I test against
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 700S Nighthawk, restored

[Kyle Munz]

There's that scary black box in the tail section that handles the tail
light, but I'd check all the wires and grounds leading up to that first.

-Kyle


On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 5:40 PM bobshel...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Grounded or could it be in the key switch?
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 5:34 PM, Graham Rogers
>  wrote:
> Everything works except the tail light. It’s not the bulb, it’s not the
> tail light itself. The brake light works. The tail light indicator works,
> telling me that the tail light is not working. So what’s the problem?
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 9, 2019, at 2:59 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
> That looks great
>
> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 13:55 Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
> This is the one taken over by squirrels for many generations
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 700S headlight not working.

[Kyle Munz]

The right hand control, specifically the starter button, can cut out the
headlight too. Make sure the button isn't sticking.

-Kyle


On Tue, Jun 11, 2019 at 6:32 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Yes I have a volt meter and yes that’s what I should do
>
> On Tue, Jun 11, 2019 at 12:46 AM Holger Selover-Stephan <
> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>
>> Graham, do you have a little multimeter? Here is one at HF for $5:
>> https://www.harborfreight.com/7-Function-Digital-Multimeter-63759.html .
>> I’d test whether you good voltage at the light bulb socket. Then follow
>> down the harness and test at any connection for voltage.
>>
>> Holger
>>
>>
>> On Jun 10, 2019, at 7:31 PM, Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>> I’ve tested the following by replacing the headlight lamp, headlight
>> wiring, the left hand control with dimmer, the fuse block. I have secured
>> all harnesses. Still no headlight (high or low beam).  If I had another
>> ignition switch I could test that to. Any suggestions?
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 700S Nighthawk, restored

[Kyle Munz]

That looks great

On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 13:55 Graham Rogers  wrote:

> This is the one taken over by squirrels for many generations
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 84 700S makeover

[Kyle Munz]

That's awesome, which mine looked like that.

-Kyle


On Fri, May 31, 2019 at 3:29 PM bobshel...@gmail.com 
wrote:

>
> Great job Sir Graham!!
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Fri, May 31, 2019 at 3:15 PM, Graham Rogers
>  wrote:
> All squirrels were evicted and residue eliminated. Engines runs great.
> Just waiting now on body set with new decals to be clear coated. Graham
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wiring of the Speedo/Tach cluster

[Kyle Munz]

We've got a colorized wiring diagram for the 650.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5rhwMkJQ5ORakJxZnk2UlZCS0U/

Misc2 looks like it comes off the bottom left corner of the fuse box in
this diagram. The dark green is always a common ground on these bikes, it
looks like the  brown with a white stripe is the lights in your fuel, tach,
and speedo. The black with a brown stripe is power to the tach and fuel
gauge and to 4, 5, and 6 warning lights. The connector in Misc1 looks like
the 6P connector just up and left of the Silicon Rectifier in the center of
the diagram. It looks like it handles switching for fuel gauge, warning
lights 4, 5, 6, and the tach. That said, I have no idea how this would hook
up to your digital speedo, but I hope it helps.

-Kyle


On Fri, May 31, 2019 at 1:54 PM Darin Hatton  wrote:

> HI jenya, do you have a copy of the factory service manual for your bike?
> It shows what the wires are you are referring to in the wiring diagram.  My
> nighthawk is a 700s so I'm not sure they are exactly the same . If you do
> have the manual and aren't sure about reading the wiring diagram I'm sure
> we can help. Let me see if I can download the manual for your bike and
> assist further. D
>
> On Thu, May 30, 2019, 5:28 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> Hey friends,
>> I am in a process of installing a single digital speedo and would like to
>> use the plugs and the connectors from a spare original Speedo/tach cluster
>> (for the 1983 NH 650) - so that I don't have to disturb any of the stock
>> wiring.
>>
>> I had a question about what are some of the wires and thus I am back
>> asking...
>> I am attaching three pictures that I took of the wire bundles coming out
>> of the cluster unit. I do know that one picture shows different gear
>> indicator wires (1st through 6th gear).
>> Not sure about the other two pictures (Misc 1 & 2) - can someone break it
>> down for me? As many of the novices, I am thoroughly scared and confused
>> with anything to do with wiring. I would greatly appreciate your help.
>>
>> Jenya, NYC
>>
>> PS - I am preserving pretty much everything on my 650 so that I can
>> change it back to a stock with ease - because I do like the stock look as
>> well.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing exhaust

[Kyle Munz]

Ratchet straps are a genius solution, I'll have to try that next time. I
wonder if ratchet straps also help with wrestling octopuses, octopi?,
8-legged sea creatures.

-Kyle


On Wed, May 22, 2019 at 7:14 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Here’s how I did it on both the 90s 750 and 80s 650 and 700s. Just
> removed, painted and reinstalled exhaust system on 84 700S yesterday.
> I hook a ratchet over the bike to the holes on the mufflers that attach to
> the frame. Then I can crank the mufflers up a little at a time as I juggle
> the headers into the head. I use ratchets on the mufflers to the frame and
> adjust as I go along from front to back.
>
> On Wed, May 22, 2019 at 1:55 PM 'nick.tamps...@btinternet.com' via
> Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!  wrote:
>
>> Took the exhaust off to sort some problems, I am now ready to put it back
>> on. It’s a 96 750.
>> What’s the best way to put it back on the bike. I had trouble taking it
>> off by myself, the middle bracket that attaches to the crankcase ( 2 bolts
>> ) seemed to stop me from moving the exhaust forward to clear the frame. I
>> took this bracket off and then managed to remove the exhaust. When
>> replacing, do I attach this bracket to the exhaust and offer the complete
>> system to the bike, or bolt the bracket to the crankcase and then replace
>> the exhaust. I must admit, I’m not looking forward to this.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing exhaust

[Kyle Munz]

I haven't done it on a 90s bike yet, but if it's anything like the 80s
bikes I always line up the headers with the studs first then raise the
lower part up to the bracket under the frame. It helps to have 2 people
though, otherwise it's like wrestling an octopus getting it all lined up
and bolted tight.

-Kyle


On Wed, May 22, 2019 at 12:55 PM 'nick.tamps...@btinternet.com' via
Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!  wrote:

> Took the exhaust off to sort some problems, I am now ready to put it back
> on. It’s a 96 750.
> What’s the best way to put it back on the bike. I had trouble taking it
> off by myself, the middle bracket that attaches to the crankcase ( 2 bolts
> ) seemed to stop me from moving the exhaust forward to clear the frame. I
> took this bracket off and then managed to remove the exhaust. When
> replacing, do I attach this bracket to the exhaust and offer the complete
> system to the bike, or bolt the bracket to the crankcase and then replace
> the exhaust. I must admit, I’m not looking forward to this.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas tank issue?

[Kyle Munz]

The easiest way to check the gas cap vent is to just pop open the gas cap
and go for a ride (be careful of spills/splashes and maybe not try this
with a full tank.) The vent is there to allow air to enter the tank as it
empties to keep the pressure equalized, if it gets clogged the vacuum
builds up in the tank and will overcome the gravity trying to pull the fuel
out.

-Kyle


On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 8:11 PM Darin Hatton  wrote:

> Could be holger, damn things seam to be quite finicky compared to gravity
> fed petcock.
>
> On Mon, May 6, 2019, 9:06 PM Holger Selover-Stephan <
> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>
>> I should add her petcock is leaking (again). I had rebuilt it, but only
>> the vacuum side. Next I will replace the round gasket in the other side.
>> Maybe it’s the petcock after all.
>>
>> Holger
>>
>> > On May 6, 2019, at 6:00 PM, Amanda Wurzer 
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Makes sense. But it's weird that it only started happening this year.
>> And only seems to happen at a lower fuel level
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: The Neverending Story

[Kyle Munz]

I've seen that, and considered it, but followed the shop manual and a
how-to I found online. I took pics as I went along and will post it once I
get a chance.

On Tue, Apr 30, 2019, 20:38 EGrider  wrote:

> I've never actually done it, but somebody once told me to remove an
> engine, disconnect everything, put down cushions on the garage floor, and
> lay the bike over on its side.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Various Nighthawk Groups; Did I miss any?

[Kyle Munz]

I didn't realize there were that many.

-Kyle


On Mon, Apr 29, 2019 at 9:50 PM Adventurer  wrote:

> It's incredible just how many on-line resources and groups there appear to
> be for Honda Nighthawks nowadays, including but not limited to:
>
> Nighthawk Forums
> http://nighthawk-forums.com/
>
> Paul's Honda Nighthawk Pages
> http://www.hondanighthawks.net/
>
> Google Groups: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/nighthawk_lovers
>
> Adventure Rider: Official Nighthawk Thread
> http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/official-nighthawk-thread.191328/
>
> Facebook Group: Honda Nighthawk Owner's Group
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/23563069622/?ref=bookmarks
>
> Facebook Group: Honda Nighthawk 750 Owners
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/60225316859/
>
> Facebook Group: The Unofficial Facebook Honda Nighthawk Group
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/2388383538/
>
> Facebook Group: Club Honda CB 750 Nighthawk
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/584947468252193/
>
> Facebook Group: Honda Nighthawk Owner's Association:
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/2201562855/
>
> The Nighthawk 700 Page
> http://stsamuel.tripod.com/nighthawk.html
>
> Hawk Friend Passione Honda Nighthawk
> http://hawkfriend.it/home.php
>
> If I missed any noteworthy Honda Nighthawk related forums, groups, pages,
> etc., please share below. I was just amazed at how many are out there,
> though forum-wise, I still believe our Nighthawk Forum to be in a league
> all it's own. Enjoy!
>
> Websites:
>
> Wikipedia: Honda Nighthawk
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Nighthawk
>
> Cycle World: Honda Nighthawk 750 - Best Used Bikes
> http://www.cycleworld.com/2010/10/08/honda-nighthawk-750-best-used-bikes
>
> Iconic Moto Culture: Honda CB750 Build
> https://www.google.com/amp/s/silodrome.com/honda-cb750-nighthawk/amp/
>
> Drag Times: 1992 Honda Nighthawk Nighthawk CB750 1/4 mile Drag Racing
> timeslip specs 0-60
> http://www.dragtimes.com/Honda-Nighthawk-Timeslip-28806.html
>
> Classified Moto: November Nighthawk Gold:
> http://www.classifiedmoto.com/motorcycles/november-nighthawk-gold/
>
> RobertBrockaway.net: The 2003 Honda Nighthawk 750 Is The Greatest
> Motorcycle Ever Made And Yes, I Will Fight You About It
>
> http://www.robertbrockway.net/2016/10/13/the-2003-honda-nighthawk-750-is-the-greatest-motorcycle-ever-made-and-yes-i-will-fight-you-about-it/
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: The Neverending Story

[Kyle Munz]

It's kinda heavy, the jack only helped so much so it was mostly me yanking
and yelling to get it out of the frame.

-Kyle


On Tue, Apr 30, 2019 at 7:26 AM EGrider  wrote:

> I like that "heavy" next to the engine. That's what I was thinking...
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The Neverending Story

[Kyle Munz]

Yeah, I know this is usually terminal. Truth is this is still the bike I
want so even if I replaced it I'd still be looking for another 700S. In
fact I've been checking the local Craigslist, if a nice one comes up for
sale nearby I'd probably buy it and keep this one for parts. In
the meantime I'll continue working on it, it's not like I can do any more
damage to it.

On Mon, Apr 29, 2019, 17:55 Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> I just bought an 84 700S, terrible condition, lots of rust and corrosion,
> good motor, 22k miles. Everything there, a summer project
>
> On Mon, Apr 29, 2019 at 6:13 PM Javier Garcia  wrote:
>
>> I sold one I got for my brother-in-law because of that problem. That also
>> made me not feeling compelled to get another 700, although I'd love to have
>> one.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 28, 2019 at 4:17 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> 700, starter clutch/chain.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 18:16 Kurt Nolte  wrote:
>>>
>>>> 650 or 700?
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Apr 28, 2019 at 5:21 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Do you ever get the feeling like you're getting deeper and deeper into
>>>>> a project that you have no idea how to get back out of?
>>>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The Neverending Story

[Kyle Munz]

700, starter clutch/chain.

On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 18:16 Kurt Nolte  wrote:

> 650 or 700?
>
> On Sun, Apr 28, 2019 at 5:21 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> Do you ever get the feeling like you're getting deeper and deeper into a
>> project that you have no idea how to get back out of?
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Are both mirrors righ hand thread?

[Kyle Munz]

It's awesome to see my blog already being shared in this thread, thanks!
I also have a post regarding swapping mirrors from right to left.
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=567

-Kyle


On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 11:19 AM Holger Selover-Stephan <
hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:

>
>
> On Wednesday, April 24, 2019 at 9:13:02 AM UTC-7, aajawo wrote:
>>
>> Do both mirrors on a 1983 NH 650 have normal right hand threads?
>>
>
> Yes, both are right-hand thread.
>
>
>> Anybody replace their sight glass with success?
>>
>
> Check out Kyle's blog: http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=654
>
> Holger
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Need help with my 1983 650

[Kyle Munz]

The 'Remove Before Flight' keytag actually came from my 700S. The previous
owner was a career AirForce guy. After I bought it I swapped the 700 keys
to my WWI Flying Ace keychain (still Air Force related I guess?) and put
the 650 keys on the RBF tag. I passed it on again when I sold it.
I've seen those fluid syncers before but I worry I'd slurp all the fluid
into the engine so I'll stick with my cheap Chinese gauges. ;)

On Tue, Apr 16, 2019, 11:43 mark weisenfeld  wrote:

> ...and then, after you see how that works, you can make your own out of
> tubing and colored (hydraulic) liquid.
> Yeah, I did that, kinda cool, but only good if you really have to and
> can't get a real tool.
>
> Looks like someone has been to a flight museum, or the ultimate museum in
> Tucson.
>
> * Remove Before Flight *
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Need help with my 1983 650

[Kyle Munz]

Javier is right, there should be small bleeder valves on each line. This
link has videos from the last time I synced my 650 where I've got the
needles damped down to stop their bouncing to give you an idea how they
should look. Just ignore how poorly the bike was running ;)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ped1LNbwKhB7e77s6

-Kyle


On Mon, Apr 15, 2019 at 7:25 PM Javier Garcia  wrote:

> You need to adjust the little valves on each hose to make the needle stop
> bouncing. Once to have steady needles then you can make the proper reading
> of the vacuum on each carb.
>
> On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 11:15 AM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> So - we are riding! I just gave up on the original set of carbs and
>> installed an old set that I purchased off eBay for $70. Now, the next one
>> up is a sync - here is what I get when I try to sync them up. See attached
>> video. I am sure it’s something familiar to you guys - please suggest what
>> or how. Thanks, J
>>
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>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Apr 10, 2019, at 6:35 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>
>> Don't throw in the towel yet jenya, if there is a problem it can be
>> fixed. Proper coding for the program, to put it in perspective :  )
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019, 10:47 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Mike - will give them a call, see what it might take...
>>> J//S
>>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 10:37 AM mike beatty 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hey sorry to hear your situation but i am in bronx ny if you go to web
 site shop js called vent bike they have been servicing my night hawk there
 over 2 years they are fair look them up they offer pick up also goid luck

 On Wed, Apr 10, 2019, 9:43 AM Jenya Spektor 
 wrote:

> I am about ready to give up. Need help! Does anyone from this group
> lives near NYC (South Brooklyn in particular) - I just need a little hand
> holding with this bike.
> Or if there are any good mechanics around that I can talk to.
>
> It's all about the carbs. It started with a small leak and had turned
> into a not running bike. (See my earlier post here: Carbs started
> leaking out of the blue.)
> Please let me know.
> Sincerely, Jenya
>
> --
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>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jenya Spektor
>>> 917.202.3080
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] How to reinstall airbox boots on 1983 Nighthawk 650

[Kyle Munz]

I never needed any sort of sealant on my 650, the Y-boots just shove in
there. As long as the boots aren't deformed and fit snugly in their
openings they shouldn't allow any air leakage. As far as I know the
U-shaped metal bit is just there to add support and keep boot from
collapsing but perhaps somebody here knows better than I do. The trick is
to connect the Y ends to the carbs first and clamp them down, you may need
to soften them with a hair dryer first. Then slide the airbox forward to
meet the boots. You can use a ratchet strap from the frame and back around
the airbox to snug it up. Then tighten everything down.


On Fri, Apr 12, 2019, 13:26 Paul  wrote:

> Hey Aaron, the picture you posted with your message didn't come through.
> Does anyone have an answer for Aaron on this one???
>
>
> *Paul LeBoutillier *
> *www.hondanighthawks.net *
> Honda Nighthawk Lovers Email group
> 
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 2:35 PM aajawo  wrote:
>
>> So I just purchased a 1983 NH 650 that has sat for a few years.  In the
>> process of removing the carbs to clean them, the air boots pulled loose
>> from the airbox.  That is just as well because I needed to clean the airbox
>> and epoxy a split seem.  But know I am wondering how to reinstall the air
>> boots.  Do I need to use some type of adhesive around the circumference?
>> Maybe something like Yamabond.  Also the air boots have these U-shaped
>> "hangers" attached to them (see pic).  Anyone know what they are for?
>>
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Need help with my 1983 650

[Kyle Munz]

I saw in your previous post you went with pod filters, these are tricky to
get tuned right, do you have the original airbox still?

-Kyle


On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 8:47 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Jenya, I live in central PA, about 3 and a half to 4 hours away I’m
> guessing, unless there is traffic and it can be 6 hours, Graham
>
> On Thu, Apr 11, 2019 at 1:43 AM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> I am about ready to give up. Need help! Does anyone from this group lives
>> near NYC (South Brooklyn in particular) - I just need a little hand holding
>> with this bike.
>> Or if there are any good mechanics around that I can talk to.
>>
>> It's all about the carbs. It started with a small leak and had turned
>> into a not running bike. (See my earlier post here: Carbs started
>> leaking out of the blue.)
>> Please let me know.
>> Sincerely, Jenya
>>
>> --
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>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing the sight glass on the Master cylinder and bleeding the ....

[Kyle Munz]

They aren't sucked back in but releasing the lever allows the disks to push
them back. The disks on your bike should have a slight wave to them to help
with this. That's why it only sticks at certain spots when you spin the
wheel. If you can see it binding on one side or the other that's indicative
of the calipers not sliding freely on their pins. All kinds of crud can
build up in the calipers too, it sometimes looks like rock candy. You just
have to clean it all out.

On Wed, Apr 3, 2019, 11:27 Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Thank you both again. My question is  - what makes the calipers release
> the pads - is it when a rider releases the lever, the calipers are sucked
> in by the same hydraulic pressure that pushed out before?
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 10:58 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> It's not impossible to do without disconnecting the lines, and for just
>> replacing the pads I usually keep calipers connected, but to actually
>> clean/rebuild the calipers it's best to disconnect them. It makes it easier
>> to get in there with the compressed air and some toothpicks to make sure
>> they're clean.
>>
>> Also, apart from just cleaning the interior working of the calipers, the
>> pins that they slide back and forth on can have corrosion build up which
>> could cause dragging on one side vs the other.
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 9:49 AM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Easy to get the pistons back in, I put brake fluid in the caliper,
>>> spread some around the O rings in the caliper and gently jiggle the pistons
>>> back in. They easily compress with fingers. No need to disconnect lines
>>> just make sure level in reservoir is low so it doesn’t overflow out. Or,
>>> open the bleeder valve on caliper.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 10:43 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thank you both for the detailed response. If I am to do it without
>>>> disconnecting the lines, how hard it is to depress them back into place in
>>>> order to install new pads (which will make sense to install anyway)? I know
>>>> I need to use a caliper tool that pushes them in on my 76 MGB - I
>>>> definitely can't do it by just pressing with my fingers.
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 9:51 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I'm with Graham, cleaning and if necessary rebuilding the calipers is
>>>>> cheap insurance that they're operating properly. I took pics when I did
>>>>> mine:
>>>>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=430
>>>>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=463
>>>>>
>>>>> -Kyle
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 7:47 AM Graham Rogers <
>>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Let me add what I mean by slats. I sometimes use paint sticks cut in
>>>>>> thirds. I start off using as many necessary to fill the space in the
>>>>>> calipers. Then pump the brakes till the pistons can’t go beyond the 
>>>>>> sticks.
>>>>>> One piston usually gets to the sticks before the other. The sticks stops
>>>>>> the first piston from going any further, allowing the second piston to
>>>>>> catch up. Then remove sticks to keep the pistons emerging at the same 
>>>>>> time
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:35 PM Graham Rogers <
>>>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Jenya, I’m guessing it was like that before you bled the brakes. An
>>>>>>> hours work to clean the calipers, maybe a little longer because you have
>>>>>>> two sets to do. Worthwhile though. The hardest part is pumping the 
>>>>>>> pistons
>>>>>>> out of the calipers. You can do one at a time or pump out all four 
>>>>>>> pistons
>>>>>>> at the same time.
>>>>>>> 1.  Unbolt the calipers on both sides so they hang freely.
>>>>>>> 2. Make sure your brake reservoir is full, remove the disc pads from
>>>>>>> both calipers. Remove the springs in the calipers.
>>>>>>>  Now you have the pistons exposed.
>>>>>>> 3.  I have wooden slats I place in the calipers where the pads were,
>>>>>>> a couple of different thicknesses.
>>>

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing the sight glass on the Master cylinder and bleeding the ....

[Kyle Munz]

It's not impossible to do without disconnecting the lines, and for just
replacing the pads I usually keep calipers connected, but to actually
clean/rebuild the calipers it's best to disconnect them. It makes it easier
to get in there with the compressed air and some toothpicks to make sure
they're clean.

Also, apart from just cleaning the interior working of the calipers, the
pins that they slide back and forth on can have corrosion build up which
could cause dragging on one side vs the other.

-Kyle


On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 9:49 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Easy to get the pistons back in, I put brake fluid in the caliper, spread
> some around the O rings in the caliper and gently jiggle the pistons back
> in. They easily compress with fingers. No need to disconnect lines just
> make sure level in reservoir is low so it doesn’t overflow out. Or, open
> the bleeder valve on caliper.
>
> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 10:43 AM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> Thank you both for the detailed response. If I am to do it without
>> disconnecting the lines, how hard it is to depress them back into place in
>> order to install new pads (which will make sense to install anyway)? I know
>> I need to use a caliper tool that pushes them in on my 76 MGB - I
>> definitely can't do it by just pressing with my fingers.
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 9:51 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm with Graham, cleaning and if necessary rebuilding the calipers is
>>> cheap insurance that they're operating properly. I took pics when I did
>>> mine:
>>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=430
>>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=463
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 7:47 AM Graham Rogers 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Let me add what I mean by slats. I sometimes use paint sticks cut in
>>>> thirds. I start off using as many necessary to fill the space in the
>>>> calipers. Then pump the brakes till the pistons can’t go beyond the sticks.
>>>> One piston usually gets to the sticks before the other. The sticks stops
>>>> the first piston from going any further, allowing the second piston to
>>>> catch up. Then remove sticks to keep the pistons emerging at the same time
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:35 PM Graham Rogers <
>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Jenya, I’m guessing it was like that before you bled the brakes. An
>>>>> hours work to clean the calipers, maybe a little longer because you have
>>>>> two sets to do. Worthwhile though. The hardest part is pumping the pistons
>>>>> out of the calipers. You can do one at a time or pump out all four pistons
>>>>> at the same time.
>>>>> 1.  Unbolt the calipers on both sides so they hang freely.
>>>>> 2. Make sure your brake reservoir is full, remove the disc pads from
>>>>> both calipers. Remove the springs in the calipers.
>>>>>  Now you have the pistons exposed.
>>>>> 3.  I have wooden slats I place in the calipers where the pads were, a
>>>>> couple of different thicknesses.
>>>>> 4.  Now I carefully start pumping the brakes, watching the reservoir
>>>>> fluid level and the pistons as they start to emerge from in the calipers.
>>>>> The idea is, by using the wooden slats, to allow the pistons to be pumped
>>>>> out evenly, so that all four are just about out and can be finally
>>>>> extracted by removing the slats and pulling them out with either a last
>>>>> pump and/or carefully jiggling them out with a pair of pliers. Get them
>>>>> almost out by pumping, remove the slats or whatever you use, and sometimes
>>>>> one good pump and they all pop out along with the remaining fluid. There
>>>>> you go the hard part is done.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:18 PM Jenya Spektor 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Graham, Hello again!
>>>>>> The fluid was clear inside the reservoir.
>>>>>> It seem to bind in one place more then in the others.
>>>>>> The wheel does not spin freely.
>>>>>> I don't know if it was like that before I replaced the glass and bled
>>>>>> the breaks.
>>>>>> Thanks !
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:10 PM Graham Rogers <
>>>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>&

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing the sight glass on the Master cylinder and bleeding the ....

[Kyle Munz]

I'm with Graham, cleaning and if necessary rebuilding the calipers is cheap
insurance that they're operating properly. I took pics when I did mine:
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=430
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=463

-Kyle


On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 7:47 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Let me add what I mean by slats. I sometimes use paint sticks cut in
> thirds. I start off using as many necessary to fill the space in the
> calipers. Then pump the brakes till the pistons can’t go beyond the sticks.
> One piston usually gets to the sticks before the other. The sticks stops
> the first piston from going any further, allowing the second piston to
> catch up. Then remove sticks to keep the pistons emerging at the same time
>
> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:35 PM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Jenya, I’m guessing it was like that before you bled the brakes. An hours
>> work to clean the calipers, maybe a little longer because you have two sets
>> to do. Worthwhile though. The hardest part is pumping the pistons out of
>> the calipers. You can do one at a time or pump out all four pistons at the
>> same time.
>> 1.  Unbolt the calipers on both sides so they hang freely.
>> 2. Make sure your brake reservoir is full, remove the disc pads from both
>> calipers. Remove the springs in the calipers.
>>  Now you have the pistons exposed.
>> 3.  I have wooden slats I place in the calipers where the pads were, a
>> couple of different thicknesses.
>> 4.  Now I carefully start pumping the brakes, watching the reservoir
>> fluid level and the pistons as they start to emerge from in the calipers.
>> The idea is, by using the wooden slats, to allow the pistons to be pumped
>> out evenly, so that all four are just about out and can be finally
>> extracted by removing the slats and pulling them out with either a last
>> pump and/or carefully jiggling them out with a pair of pliers. Get them
>> almost out by pumping, remove the slats or whatever you use, and sometimes
>> one good pump and they all pop out along with the remaining fluid. There
>> you go the hard part is done.
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:18 PM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Graham, Hello again!
>>> The fluid was clear inside the reservoir.
>>> It seem to bind in one place more then in the others.
>>> The wheel does not spin freely.
>>> I don't know if it was like that before I replaced the glass and bled
>>> the breaks.
>>> Thanks !
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:10 PM Graham Rogers 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 But was the fluid clear in the reservoir before you bled the brakes,
 the original fluid when you unscrewed the lid off the reservoir? Are you
 sure it’s binding and not just resting against the rotor. Is it constant or
 just at a certain point on the rotor? When you anchor the back of the bike
 down so the front wheel is off the ground, does the wheel spin freely?

 On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 4:33 PM Jenya Spektor 
 wrote:

> I have not done anything but to drain the cylinder and to replace the
> glass (followed by replenishing the fluid and bleeding the breaks).
> The liquid was clear when I bled the break lines.
> So I am not sure why the slight binding would happen all of a sudden.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 1:35 PM Graham Rogers <
> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Brake pads should be loosely resting against the rotors, not binding
>> them but you might hear that they are slightly resting against the rotor.
>> Any binding, you need to remove the calipers and pistons and clean them
>> out. Each caliper has two pistons, two rubber O rings per caliper. If
>> there’s binding, a thorough cleaning should suffice.
>> The test is does the front wheel spin freely when lifted off the
>> ground? If so, you’re good. However what was the brake fluid like before
>> you replaced the sight glass? Was it dirty, grungy, etc. if it wasn’t
>> pretty much clear with no crystallization, etc, then assume the calipers
>> and pistons are in the same state. If so, clean the them
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 1:01 PM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> So i had to replace the sight glass - my old one had just
>>> disintegrated (which I did and did well at that). I bled the brakes as 
>>> per
>>> the shop manual.
>>> The thing is, NOW the front wheel is a bit sticky - almost feels
>>> like the break pads really have no gap between the pads and the disk.
>>> Is there anything else I need to do to ensure that the front breaks
>>> are sound?
>>> Please let me know.
>>>
>>> Here is what I did.
>>> 1. Opened the MC and drained most of the break fluid (leaving a bit
>>> on the bottom).
>>> 2. Replaced the sight glass, made sure there are no leaks.
>>> 3. Bled the breaks on both sides (I have a 1983 NH 650 with dual
>>> disk breaks in front).
>>> 4. Made sure that the level is firm and when squeezed 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] New Website Design

[Kyle Munz]

That would explain it. How do you like Wix? I've heard plenty of
advertisements but don't have any experience.

-Kyle


On Wed, Mar 13, 2019 at 8:36 PM Paul  wrote:

> Thanks Kyle. Yeah, I haven't had time to set up a mobile view yet.
>
>
> *Paul LeBoutillier *
> *www.hondanighthawks.net <http://www.hondanighthawks.net/>*
> Honda Nighthawk Lovers Email group
> <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/nighthawk_lovers>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 13, 2019 at 6:49 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> Congrats! It looks great on my desktop but didn't seem to render properly
>> on mobile. It could just be my phone though if someone else can test it too.
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 13, 2019 at 4:32 PM Paul  wrote:
>>
>>> Hey everyone!! Just wanted to shoot y'all a quick note and let you know
>>> I've moved my website (hondanighthawks.net and hondanighthawks.com) to
>>> a new provider. Pop on over and check it out. And PLEASE let me know if you
>>> find anything amiss. I have a LOT of tweaking yet to do, and I'm still
>>> getting all the "Your Nighthawk" entries put back in.
>>>
>>> Take care!!
>>> Paul
>>>
>>>
>>> *Paul LeBoutillier *
>>> *www.hondanighthawks.net <http://www.hondanighthawks.net/>*
>>> Honda Nighthawk Lovers Email group
>>> <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/nighthawk_lovers>
>>>
>>> --
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>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] New Website Design

[Kyle Munz]

Congrats! It looks great on my desktop but didn't seem to render properly
on mobile. It could just be my phone though if someone else can test it too.

-Kyle


On Wed, Mar 13, 2019 at 4:32 PM Paul  wrote:

> Hey everyone!! Just wanted to shoot y'all a quick note and let you know
> I've moved my website (hondanighthawks.net and hondanighthawks.com) to a
> new provider. Pop on over and check it out. And PLEASE let me know if you
> find anything amiss. I have a LOT of tweaking yet to do, and I'm still
> getting all the "Your Nighthawk" entries put back in.
>
> Take care!!
> Paul
>
>
> *Paul LeBoutillier *
> *www.hondanighthawks.net *
> Honda Nighthawk Lovers Email group
> 
>
> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Carbs clogged...again??

[Kyle Munz]

I dunno, if you're not getting carb cleaner in your eyes, mouth, and nose
from the compressed air you're not doing it right.
Or maybe that's just me. That stuff's not dangerous, is it?

-Kyle


On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 2:27 PM Darin Hatton  wrote:

> Sounds like you got it down holger
>
> On Wed, Mar 6, 2019, 3:23 PM Holger Selover-Stephan <
> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>
>> > Did you separate jet from emulsion tube when you cleaned?
>>
>> Yes, I did. And I let the jets and seat sit in carb cleaner overnight,
>> then cleaned them with fresh carb cleaner and finally brake fluid. Lots of
>> compressed air in between and afterward. They’re clean, pretty sure. Thanks
>> for making sure with me though!
>>
>> Bob suggested (off list) to clean the pilot screws. Will do that next.
>>
>> Holger
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] UK members

[Kyle Munz]

We have a map where you can drop your location. It's been around forever so
some of those users may not be active anymore but it shows you where we all
are around the globe.
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/nighthawk_lovers/LZ31wDyDGgc/8LQ3hs1BBQAJ


-Kyle


On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 11:36 AM bobshel...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Thanks! We love to help. It's about riding and saving $. Ride safe brother!
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 11:23 AM, nick.tampsett via Nighthawk Motorcycle
> Lovers!
>  wrote:
> I was just wondering how many UK residents subscribe to this forum. I’ve
> been here for a few months now and find the level of input from various
> sections of the globe has been amazing. Very friendly, informative site.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Carbs clogged...again??

[Kyle Munz]

No filter, the fuel cock has a filter in the sediment bowl and the reserve
straw should have a strainer around that as well.

On Tue, Mar 5, 2019, 21:25 Holger Selover-Stephan 
wrote:

>
>
> On Mar 5, 2019, at 6:43 PM, bobshel...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> How about using compressed air to blow everything out. One thing you can
> do to check the diaphrams after the carbs are reassembled is use light air
> pressure to lift them and see how they react. Blow air lightly across this
> opening shown by the cursor. If one or more lifts slower than the others it
> creates some hesitation.
> <20190305_203924.jpg>
>
>
> Cool, I’ll give that a try next time the carb is out. Thanks for the tip,
> Bob! Right now I’m hoping I can leave them installed the the problem goes
> away magically (yeah, dream on!).
>
> > My experience with the small inline filters is they don't flow enough at
> freeway speeds and the bike starves for fuel.
>
> Kyle, do you use no inline fuel filter then, or did you find a way to
> install a larger one? I had bought this one:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014C81R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8=1
>  but
> it was just a little too large for the 700S. It actually might fit with a
> more flexible fuel line. I might give it another try. Having a 15 micron
> filter would be nice.
>
> Holger
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 700S: which petcock repair kit?

[Kyle Munz]

If you're talking about the part I think you are, this advice I got from a
friend years ago might help.

FYI: in the old days before that was rendered not-serviceable, there
> were two screws that could be removed and a biscuit that had holes in
> it. The petcock handle slides across the holes opening and closing them
> to get off/on/res. If you're real handy, drill the rivets out and buy a
> part for an old bike (IE: CB350) it will fit.
> Tap the holes and use screws, great cheap repair. The part is called "petcock 
> packing set"
>
>
-Kyle


On Mon, Mar 4, 2019 at 9:47 AM Holger Selover-Stephan <
hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I used KL's kit # 18-2701
>  to repair my
> 700S petcock, but it's still dripping in the Reserve position. Opening up
> the side with the handle revealed a deteriorated rubber gasket.The one with
> the round holes in it. Kit # 18-2701 only repairs the vacuum membrane. I
> can't find the part number of the rubber part with the 3 round holes on the
> handle side on the microfiches. It looks a bit like the left lower rubber
> part in this picture
> 
> .
>
> Anybody know which repair kit to use for the handle side of the 700S
> petcock?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Holger
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1983 Cb650 Fuse box between the forks

[Kyle Munz]

Do you know why the tangs are breaking? Are they corroded? I'm with you,
I'd prefer to replace it, and I always intended to replace mine when I had
my 650, but since that's a weak spot on the 650 they're all in pretty bad
condition. Good luck though, hopefully you can find a clean one or some NOS
hiding on a shelf somewhere.

-Kyle


On Mon, Mar 4, 2019 at 6:23 AM  wrote:

> Kyle
>
>  Thanks a lot for the pictures of the fuse box, That is the culprit, Mine
> wasn't burned like yours but the little tangs that layed against the blade
> fuse were just breaking off not giving power to the lights and turn
> singles. I soldered wire in the little boxes at the top where the fuse
> plugged in so the blade of the fuse had to sit against copper multi
> strands. It seems to work, unless I get a cold solder joint. I would like
> to just replace this with a new box so I get the use of it with out the
> hassel...
>
> Thanks Again and safe riding
>
> On Sunday, March 3, 2019 at 8:30:32 PM UTC-5, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>
>> As far as I know, they aren't the same. Even the 700 and 550 from the
>> same era are have different fuse blocks. You're best bet is probably eBay.
>> If you think yours is worth saving, I took pics when I rebuilt mine.
>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 3, 2019, 18:35  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone know of a replacement for the fuse box between the forks
>>> on the 1983-1985 models cb650sc nighthawk? My is starting to fail, I mean
>>> little fingers that rest against the blade fuses are starting to break,
>>> (there are 4 and two broke) causing the blinkers, horn and running lights
>>> not to work. Maybe they used the same box on a later model??? like the
>>> 1991-1998 models? maybe there is a different part number I can search for.
>>> It has four blade fuses and 8 plugs into the back of it and screws onto a
>>> metal support under the head light and above the twin horns - any help
>>> would be Greatly Appreciated.
>>>
>>> Thanks Dougjones
>>>
>>> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1983 Cb650 Fuse box between the forks

[Kyle Munz]

Wow, I'm touched if I had any influence at all on someone's decision to buy
a 700S, but I'm also surprised my blog would do that since almost all the
posts are about things breaking.

-Kyle


On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 11:42 PM Holger Selover-Stephan <
hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:

> Aha! Kyle, your blog (and thus, you) are the reason I ride a 700 S now. I
> had been looking for your blog after having lost track of it, and now here
> it is again. It’s fun to look up the images that got me on this track.
>
> Holger
>
> On Mar 3, 2019, at 5:30 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
> As far as I know, they aren't the same. Even the 700 and 550 from the same
> era are have different fuse blocks. You're best bet is probably eBay. If
> you think yours is worth saving, I took pics when I rebuilt mine.
> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1983 Cb650 Fuse box between the forks

[Kyle Munz]

As far as I know, they aren't the same. Even the 700 and 550 from the same
era are have different fuse blocks. You're best bet is probably eBay. If
you think yours is worth saving, I took pics when I rebuilt mine.
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166

On Sun, Mar 3, 2019, 18:35  wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>
> Does anyone know of a replacement for the fuse box between the forks
> on the 1983-1985 models cb650sc nighthawk? My is starting to fail, I mean
> little fingers that rest against the blade fuses are starting to break,
> (there are 4 and two broke) causing the blinkers, horn and running lights
> not to work. Maybe they used the same box on a later model??? like the
> 1991-1998 models? maybe there is a different part number I can search for.
> It has four blade fuses and 8 plugs into the back of it and screws onto a
> metal support under the head light and above the twin horns - any help
> would be Greatly Appreciated.
>
> Thanks Dougjones
>
> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starter Solenoid plug melting

[Kyle Munz]

It's always best to color coordinate your dog with your bike ;)

-Kyle


On Fri, Feb 22, 2019 at 2:58 PM Darin Hatton  wrote:

> AND WE LIKE PICS!!
>
> On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 3:54 PM Darin Hatton  wrote:
>
>> Never know but checking current after installing doesn't cost any extra :
>> )  I would want to make sure I knew what caused the problem.  Don't like to
>> ASSume anything. Just like kyle said, buyer be ware
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 3:48 PM Final Twist <
>> samueljacquesclout...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> If it was the regulator sending in too much current...  wouldn't that
>>> 30amp fuse have blown before the plug melted?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, 22 Feb 2019, 3:43 PM Darin Hatton, 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 It's all good, I know what you meant.

 On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 3:28 PM 'Pike' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <
 nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Sorry,true,got turned around.
>
> On Feb 22, 2019, at 2:15 PM, Darin Hatton 
> wrote:
>
> The black finned object below left side cover
>
> On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 3:12 PM Darin Hatton 
> wrote:
>
>> Should be left side as this is determined as the rider sits on bike
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 3:10 PM 'Pike' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>>  wrote:
>>
>>> On my 84 700s the regulator is under the right side plastic panel
>>> that says nighthawk s.
>>>
>>> On Feb 22, 2019, at 2:05 PM, Final Twist <
>>> samueljacquesclout...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks  wires should be same.   odds of the same bad connection
>>> being the issue is low since I had replaced both the solenoid and the
>>> connector plug.   I figured it's the voltage regulator perhaps.   
>>> ordered a
>>> new one just for good measure.
>>>
>>> By the way, could someone please advise on where the voltage
>>> regulator is? Under the tank?
>>>
>>> On Fri, 22 Feb 2019, 2:58 PM Darin Hatton, 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Follow kyles installation tips. If your bike is wired same as my
 700s the other wires go to clutch switch,  kill switch,and
 regulator/rectifier.
  If I were you I'd rewire new plug and check voltage on wire going
 to regulator /rectifier.  On my 700s nighthawk that wire is white.
 Shouldn't be over 15 volts dc or so rev'd up. This wire puts the charge
 into the battery as you ride.  Of course you'll need a multi meter to
 check. If your reading is high your regulator /rectifier may be on its 
 way
 out. Hopefully the meltdown was from loose connection / high 
 resistance.
 Those plugs should be a pain in the ass to plug in and unplug

 On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 11:14 AM Holger Selover-Stephan <
 hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:

> I’m new around here as well, but from other vehicles, if
> electrical insulation melts, it usually means there is a short right 
> where
> the damage is found. If you had an issue elsewhere in the system that
> causes over-current, you’d either have a fuse pop or you’d see melting
> elsewhere. You found melting at the same spot twice, so that’s where 
> your
> cause is, nowhere else. It’s most likely crud, stray strands, or 
> exposed
> wires that are moved together, that shortens the circuit right there, 
> which
> creates the heat that damaged the wires or connector.
>
> Holger
>
> > On Feb 22, 2019, at 6:48 AM, Final Twist <
> samueljacquesclout...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Are bad connections the only possible cause of this happening?
> Does anyone know what the other 3 wires do in the connector?  I can't 
> read
> the really complex wiring diagrams for the motorcycle
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starter Solenoid plug melting

[Kyle Munz]

+1 on getting your hands on a manual. It can be found online and contains
steps for testing your regulator rather than just replacing it. Also make
sure you're buying quality replacement parts. You can't go wrong with Honda
OEM, and many of us have had good luck buying from Rick's Motorsport
Electrics, but if you're getting some cheap Chinese parts off of eBay or
Amazon that could explain why you've had two failures of the same component

-Kyle


On Fri, Feb 22, 2019 at 2:48 PM Final Twist 
wrote:

> If it was the regulator sending in too much current...  wouldn't that
> 30amp fuse have blown before the plug melted?
>
>
>
> On Fri, 22 Feb 2019, 3:43 PM Darin Hatton,  wrote:
>
>> It's all good, I know what you meant.
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 3:28 PM 'Pike' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <
>> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry,true,got turned around.
>>>
>>> On Feb 22, 2019, at 2:15 PM, Darin Hatton 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> The black finned object below left side cover
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 3:12 PM Darin Hatton 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Should be left side as this is determined as the rider sits on bike

 On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 3:10 PM 'Pike' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <
 nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> On my 84 700s the regulator is under the right side plastic panel that
> says nighthawk s.
>
> On Feb 22, 2019, at 2:05 PM, Final Twist <
> samueljacquesclout...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks  wires should be same.   odds of the same bad connection
> being the issue is low since I had replaced both the solenoid and the
> connector plug.   I figured it's the voltage regulator perhaps.   ordered 
> a
> new one just for good measure.
>
> By the way, could someone please advise on where the voltage regulator
> is? Under the tank?
>
> On Fri, 22 Feb 2019, 2:58 PM Darin Hatton, 
> wrote:
>
>> Follow kyles installation tips. If your bike is wired same as my 700s
>> the other wires go to clutch switch,  kill switch,and 
>> regulator/rectifier.
>>  If I were you I'd rewire new plug and check voltage on wire going to
>> regulator /rectifier.  On my 700s nighthawk that wire is white. Shouldn't
>> be over 15 volts dc or so rev'd up. This wire puts the charge into the
>> battery as you ride.  Of course you'll need a multi meter to check. If 
>> your
>> reading is high your regulator /rectifier may be on its way out. 
>> Hopefully
>> the meltdown was from loose connection / high resistance.  Those plugs
>> should be a pain in the ass to plug in and unplug
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 22, 2019, 11:14 AM Holger Selover-Stephan <
>> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I’m new around here as well, but from other vehicles, if electrical
>>> insulation melts, it usually means there is a short right where the 
>>> damage
>>> is found. If you had an issue elsewhere in the system that causes
>>> over-current, you’d either have a fuse pop or you’d see melting 
>>> elsewhere.
>>> You found melting at the same spot twice, so that’s where your cause is,
>>> nowhere else. It’s most likely crud, stray strands, or exposed wires 
>>> that
>>> are moved together, that shortens the circuit right there, which creates
>>> the heat that damaged the wires or connector.
>>>
>>> Holger
>>>
>>> > On Feb 22, 2019, at 6:48 AM, Final Twist <
>>> samueljacquesclout...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Are bad connections the only possible cause of this happening?
>>> Does anyone know what the other 3 wires do in the connector?  I can't 
>>> read
>>> the really complex wiring diagrams for the motorcycle
>>>
>>> --
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