Re: [Quantum Owners] Anyone interestd in my 2+2?

[Jim Hearne]

That’s good, i was just checking, there are some kit cars still registered as 
the donor on the V5 which causes all sorts of issues.
I guess anything on the road would get picked up on a MOT nowadays but if they 
have been off the road for some time they could still be on a donor 
registration.

It’s funny, i wasn’t allowed to keep the original B registration on my 2+2 
(registered in 1998) even though i had used enough parts not to get a Q reg.
Though, i’ve always been suspicious the DVLA wanted the donor plate as is was 
B911 something, nice for them to sell to a Porsche owner.

Jim


From: David Brunson 
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2023 3:01 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Anyone interestd in my 2+2?

Hi Jim, Good question. It is registered as a Quantum 2+2 on the V5 but I kept 
the original number plate as I used enough parts from the donor not to have to 
get a Q plate. 

Dave


On Monday, 30 October 2023 at 14:20:45 UTC Jim Hearne wrote:

  Hi , you said “on the original C plate from 1986 donor.” , do you mean it’s 
still registered as a Fiesta on the V5 or does it say Quantum on the V5 ?

  Jim


  From: David Brunson 
  Sent: Monday, October 30, 2023 1:41 PM
  To: Quantum Owners Group 
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Anyone interestd in my 2+2?

  Hi All, I’m new to the forum but been watching on and off for a while. I have 
had my 2+2 since building it in the early 90s and its been a great fun project 
both for driving and working on. I’ve got to that stage now where its not 
getting any attention so would like it to go to someone who can appreciate it. 

  As you can see in the pictures it is a mixture of the original diesel van and 
XR2 parts with a Ford 1.8 diesel engine that was retrofitted in the late 90s. 
I’ve had it running over the last few weeks and it all still works on very 
short runs, even the electric windows!

  Please get in touch if you are interest in buying it at a sensible price. It 
will need collecting and I am in Leamington Spa in the Midlands.

  To sumarise:

  2+2 quantum doer upper on the original C plate from 1986 donor.

  Ford 1.8 diesel 5 speed manual.

  Runs well.

  Finish is the original white gelcoat. Generally, in good condition with a 
small dink in the rear bumper.

  Hood in good condition with zip out window - kept in garage so always dry.

  Used regularly up until 2020 and serviced annually. 

  Tax currently SORN and MOT expired.

  A number of spares: XR2 dashboard, door cards, cylinder head, boot gas 
struts, wheel trims, etc that can go with the car.

  All original paperwork even the build manual, MOTs, service bills etc. and 
keys for everything.



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Re: [Quantum Owners] Anyone interestd in my 2+2?

[Jim Hearne]

Hi , you said “on the original C plate from 1986 donor.” , do you mean it’s 
still registered as a Fiesta on the V5 or does it say Quantum on the V5 ?

Jim


From: David Brunson 
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2023 1:41 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Anyone interestd in my 2+2?

Hi All, I’m new to the forum but been watching on and off for a while. I have 
had my 2+2 since building it in the early 90s and its been a great fun project 
both for driving and working on. I’ve got to that stage now where its not 
getting any attention so would like it to go to someone who can appreciate it. 

As you can see in the pictures it is a mixture of the original diesel van and 
XR2 parts with a Ford 1.8 diesel engine that was retrofitted in the late 90s. 
I’ve had it running over the last few weeks and it all still works on very 
short runs, even the electric windows!

Please get in touch if you are interest in buying it at a sensible price. It 
will need collecting and I am in Leamington Spa in the Midlands.

To sumarise:

2+2 quantum doer upper on the original C plate from 1986 donor.

Ford 1.8 diesel 5 speed manual.

Runs well.

Finish is the original white gelcoat. Generally, in good condition with a small 
dink in the rear bumper.

Hood in good condition with zip out window - kept in garage so always dry.

Used regularly up until 2020 and serviced annually. 

Tax currently SORN and MOT expired.

A number of spares: XR2 dashboard, door cards, cylinder head, boot gas struts, 
wheel trims, etc that can go with the car.

All original paperwork even the build manual, MOTs, service bills etc. and keys 
for everything.


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preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine/gearbox clearance - Saloon MK2

[Jim Hearne]

SB seem to have new mounts as part of a Zetec conversion so maybe he can 
supply without needing an exchange, or maybe he could get your modified one 
refurbished.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195674565946

Jim



-Original Message- 
From: Jim Hearne

Sent: Monday, October 30, 2023 9:15 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine/gearbox clearance - Saloon MK2

I would just fit a EFI flywheel and pickup, got to be easier to keep it
standard.

Part 89FB6038FA is a standard Mk3 Fiesta mounting (you can tell the date the
part was first used from the first 2 digits on Ford part numbers) , this
looks similar to the Mk2 mount.

1661786 is the Ford finis code (why did Ford use 2 different part number
schemes ?) for part 89AB6B032AD, this is the Mk3 Fiesta Diesel mount.
They fit without the cups that go on the Mk2 mounts and you also don't need
the J shaped plate, the cups and J plate are both the limit the movement of
the mount.
All that is built into the Mk3 Diesel mount.

I'm not sure how different the Mk2 Diesel top mount is but as it's a
different block on the Diesel the mounting could be quite different.
The top mounts do wear less than the bottom ones so you may be able to find
a good second hand one.

Jim




From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2023 10:56 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine/gearbox clearance - Saloon MK2

Levering engine across worked to some extent but still not as much clearance
as I wanted at pulley end. I would rather have it close at gearbox end - one
reason being I was hoping to fit a timing ring to crank pulley so I could
play with efi at some point (although block is an efi block flywheel is not
an efi one).

With engine levered across I could just remove alternator belt. Belt was
11.9mm * 675 cogged. It looks rather wide on pulley so I have ordered a 10mm
wide belt which is width vast majority of suppliers specify for XR2. I
checked the V profile of crank and alternator pulleys and an RS one and they
are same.The pulley with unequal flanges has a smaller working diameter so
maybe it was used in configurations where belt fitting was particularly
tight.


Anyway I decided to remove all engine mounts and check them because I could
see the engine top mount insulator rubber was getting well distorted when
engine was levered across. The gearbox cradle front rubber mount was really
out of shape- it had sheared to a nice parallelogram shape despite being
inside the standard metal cup. The rear mount looked fine. Both cradle
rubbers seem to be a standard Ford Fiesta part 89FB6038FA. In saloon build
manual it says that diesel rubber Ford part 1661786 is recommended for
engine power 120hp and above so these maybe a better option. Anyone know if
these fit in Fiesta metal cups? - on the Ford refs I checked it looks like
these rubbers were used on other diesel models but not Fiesta diesel? Also
what is the function of the J shaped plate fitted over rear cradle mount?
(this is an XR2 cradle).

I think the lower mounts take most of the load but when they start giving
way the top mount is loaded up more than it should be. The rubber in my top
insulator mount is not torn but pretty soft. As it's now out I thought may
as well replace but AFAIK new insulators are no longer available. There is
probably somewhere that can rebush these but I haven't come across them yet.
I know SB Parts do exchange XR2 units but the Quantum ones have been modded
from standard so probably not good for exchange. New upgraded mounts are
available (SB, Vibra .) - just need to mod the bottom leg as per QSC. I
noticed looking at Ford parts diagram the Fiesta Mk2 diesel insulator looks
like a sturdier design (M12 thru bolt rather than M10 studs bonded on sides
of rubber) - anyone tried one?

John
On Tuesday, 24 October 2023 at 10:45:59 UTC+1 Darren Siepka wrote:

The sigma were used in focus and fiesta until fairly recently, available on
1.25, 1.4 ,1.6 and 1.7 (only in the puma)
Iirc when they appeared in the pumas they were called the zetec se , the
Yamaha designed engines.
They aren't the best(can't rebuild the bottom end as there are no pins in
the bearing caps) , but they are available .
The 1.5 and 1.6 ecoboost blocks are actually almost identical, only having
direct injection heads instead of the port injection.


On Tue, 24 Oct 2023, 10:37 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

Yes, good point, the Mk1 was only 4 speed.
I did a 5 speed conversion on a Mk1 Fiesta before there were kits available.
It only needed a small modification to the side of the engine bay to clear
the 5th gear end of the gearbox.
But, the bigger issue was that the Mk1 Fiesta tie bar on the suspension went
straight under the 5th gear housing on the gearbox.
I ended up buying a very expensive Ford Motorsport kit which lowered the
front tie bar mounting but also came with longer adjustable tie bars.
I heated up the tie bar and put a double bend in it to clear the end

Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine/gearbox clearance - Saloon MK2

[Jim Hearne]

I would just fit a EFI flywheel and pickup, got to be easier to keep it 
standard.


Part 89FB6038FA is a standard Mk3 Fiesta mounting (you can tell the date the 
part was first used from the first 2 digits on Ford part numbers) , this 
looks similar to the Mk2 mount.


1661786 is the Ford finis code (why did Ford use 2 different part number 
schemes ?) for part 89AB6B032AD, this is the Mk3 Fiesta Diesel mount.
They fit without the cups that go on the Mk2 mounts and you also don't need 
the J shaped plate, the cups and J plate are both the limit the movement of 
the mount.

All that is built into the Mk3 Diesel mount.

I'm not sure how different the Mk2 Diesel top mount is but as it's a 
different block on the Diesel the mounting could be quite different.
The top mounts do wear less than the bottom ones so you may be able to find 
a good second hand one.


Jim




From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2023 10:56 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine/gearbox clearance - Saloon MK2

Levering engine across worked to some extent but still not as much clearance 
as I wanted at pulley end. I would rather have it close at gearbox end - one 
reason being I was hoping to fit a timing ring to crank pulley so I could 
play with efi at some point (although block is an efi block flywheel is not 
an efi one).


With engine levered across I could just remove alternator belt. Belt was 
11.9mm * 675 cogged. It looks rather wide on pulley so I have ordered a 10mm 
wide belt which is width vast majority of suppliers specify for XR2. I 
checked the V profile of crank and alternator pulleys and an RS one and they 
are same.The pulley with unequal flanges has a smaller working diameter so 
maybe it was used in configurations where belt fitting was particularly 
tight.



Anyway I decided to remove all engine mounts and check them because I could 
see the engine top mount insulator rubber was getting well distorted when 
engine was levered across. The gearbox cradle front rubber mount was really 
out of shape- it had sheared to a nice parallelogram shape despite being 
inside the standard metal cup. The rear mount looked fine. Both cradle 
rubbers seem to be a standard Ford Fiesta part 89FB6038FA. In saloon build 
manual it says that diesel rubber Ford part 1661786 is recommended for 
engine power 120hp and above so these maybe a better option. Anyone know if 
these fit in Fiesta metal cups? - on the Ford refs I checked it looks like 
these rubbers were used on other diesel models but not Fiesta diesel? Also 
what is the function of the J shaped plate fitted over rear cradle mount? 
(this is an XR2 cradle).


I think the lower mounts take most of the load but when they start giving 
way the top mount is loaded up more than it should be. The rubber in my top 
insulator mount is not torn but pretty soft. As it's now out I thought may 
as well replace but AFAIK new insulators are no longer available. There is 
probably somewhere that can rebush these but I haven't come across them yet. 
I know SB Parts do exchange XR2 units but the Quantum ones have been modded 
from standard so probably not good for exchange. New upgraded mounts are 
available (SB, Vibra .) - just need to mod the bottom leg as per QSC. I 
noticed looking at Ford parts diagram the Fiesta Mk2 diesel insulator looks 
like a sturdier design (M12 thru bolt rather than M10 studs bonded on sides 
of rubber) - anyone tried one?


John
On Tuesday, 24 October 2023 at 10:45:59 UTC+1 Darren Siepka wrote:

The sigma were used in focus and fiesta until fairly recently, available on 
1.25, 1.4 ,1.6 and 1.7 (only in the puma)
Iirc when they appeared in the pumas they were called the zetec se , the 
Yamaha designed engines.
They aren't the best(can't rebuild the bottom end as there are no pins in 
the bearing caps) , but they are available .
The 1.5 and 1.6 ecoboost blocks are actually almost identical, only having 
direct injection heads instead of the port injection.



On Tue, 24 Oct 2023, 10:37 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

Yes, good point, the Mk1 was only 4 speed.
I did a 5 speed conversion on a Mk1 Fiesta before there were kits available.
It only needed a small modification to the side of the engine bay to clear 
the 5th gear end of the gearbox.
But, the bigger issue was that the Mk1 Fiesta tie bar on the suspension went 
straight under the 5th gear housing on the gearbox.
I ended up buying a very expensive Ford Motorsport kit which lowered the 
front tie bar mounting but also came with longer adjustable tie bars.
I heated up the tie bar and put a double bend in it to clear the end of the 
gearbox and also made an offset front mount bracket.

No idea what it did to the suspension geometry but it worked.

Is the sigma the Zetec-S or is it the later engine based on the CVH ?
I’m not up on my later engines apart from the ECO-Boost (now seeming know as 
the ECO-Boom because of a tendency of blowing up)


Jim


From: Darren Siepka

Re: [Quantum Owners] H4/Facebook problem

[Jim Hearne]

Sounds promising.
If the battery has been off then it will take about 20mins for the ECU to 
relearn it’s settings.
The idle should adjust itself through the idle control valve unless you have 
been adjusting the throttle stop which you shouldn’t really.
You may have fun adjusting it back as the ecu will be fighting you.

Jim


From: flob...@gmail.com 
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2023 3:15 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4/Facebook problem

New crank sensor and blanking plugs fitted, fired up first time revs went to 
about 1500 and then died down and settled at 1100 rpm with no misfire; just 
need to let it warm up and set idle, haven't time to that today.
Thanks for your help Jim.
Russ


On Sunday, October 15, 2023 at 4:03:07 PM UTC+1 flob...@gmail.com wrote:

  Today after taking the cooling fan out I removed the EGR junk and got the 
sensor out working from above without too much difficulty. The new sensor and 4 
blanking plugs should arrive before the end of the week.


  On Thursday, October 12, 2023 at 4:45:16 PM UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

Yup, that’s it, its a bit fiddly.
Last one i did i did from below, i removed the starter motor bolts and 
moved the starter to one side.  
I didn’t disconnect the starter wires as the nuts were so rusty they didn’t 
look like they would come undo without something breaking.
Only 1 bolt (torx unless it’s been changed) holds the black sensor on, the 
aluminium bit stays on the block and is fitted from inside the gearbox 
bellhousing
The main issue is if the aluminium part has corroded onto the sensor.

A lot of people (me included) do remove the EGR, blank off the 4 holes in 
the exhaust manifold (or get an earlier manifold one without the holes) and 
remove the gubbins, pipework, differential pressure sensor and i think a 
solenoid valve. 

Jim




From: flob...@gmail.com 
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2023 4:37 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4/Facebook problem

Thanks for the advice so far. Today I found the sensor (eventually) it's 
hidden behind by what appears to be part of an EGR  system and just above the 
starter motor. I see no reason I can't remove the device and blank off the 
exhaust and inlet manifold connexions, does this seem reasonable? 

Russ


On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 2:06:46 PM UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

  Ok, sounds like the TOAD immobilizer is doing what it’s supposed to.
  I would put money on the crank sensor given the misfire that isn’t tied 
to a specific cylinder.
  When they fail they start by misfiring then fail completely when hot.

  Jim


  From: flob...@gmail.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2023 1:42 PM
  To: Quantum Owners Group 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4/Facebook problem

  Yes it has a TOAD immobilizer. Have both types of key only ever used key 
with red patch.
  Tried to start car this morning without unsetting  the immobiliser engine 
did not start  unset immobiliser with fob, engine started first time as always, 
revs up and down but not as bad as previously some misfiring but as the temp 
gauge started to move tickover settled at about 1000 rpm and engine still 
missing; waited for engine to stall - it did not, switched off and restarted
  every time but still misfiring, disconnected one plug at time but engine 
still started every time, thought missing was worse when plug 1 or 4 
disconnected (not really an obvious difference so perhaps just my imagination) 
so changed coil pack & leads no difference, forgot to change plugs, will do 
that just in case.

  Russ


  On Monday, October 9, 2023 at 7:46:35 PM UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

Ah, no, i got caught out by the reply to group or reply to sender that 
Google does sometimes.

So everybody else can see:

You say you started it without turning the immobilizer off ?, i assume 
this is an after market one and not the PATS system from your donor car.
Though depending on the age of the donor you may not have PATS, do you 
have a Red key or a Black Key with a red dot on it.

IT could be an after marker immobilizer playing up.
When it stalls and wont restart, check the voltage on the centre pin of 
the 3 pin plug on the ignition coil, there should be 12 to 13 volts there.
If you still have voltage there i would go back to suspecting the crank 
sensor, the symptoms do fit with that.
If you have no voltage then suspect the immobilizer, bypass it if you 
can.

Jim



On 09/10/2023 12:18, Jim Hearne wrote:

  I replied to you here last night but that message seems to have 
disappeared as well.
  Have you been upsetting the Internet !

  I will redo the reply later.

  Jim


  From: flob...@gmail.com 
  Sent: Monday, October 9, 2023 12:10 PM
  To: Quantum Owners G

Re: [Quantum Owners] Rear brake hub

[Jim Hearne]

The rear hub nut is done up to 184 to 214 lbf ft

Jim


From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2023 7:08 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Rear brake hub

Hi

I've just replaced the bearings in the rear nearside hub on an H4 (Fiesta Mk3) 
and found that the inner bearing housing has been worn so that I was able to 
turn the whole bearing insert by hand before pushing it out. The section where 
it is set is larger diameter than the rest of the tube through which the shell 
has to be pushed into place. The new bearing is better than the old, but there 
is still a problem.

I cannot find anywhere that supplies replacement Fiesta 3 hubs. There are items 
listed but these do not include the brake drums - mine are integrated.

Does anyone know where a suitable spare may be found, or what else can be done?

Thanks

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preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners 
Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Rear brake hub

[Jim Hearne]

I’m pretty sure all the rear drums on the Mk3 Fiesta had separate drums and 
hubs, none were combined like the Mk2 Fiesta, are you sure the drum wasn’t just 
stuck to the hub ?

Also, when you do the rear hub nut up (It’s really tight) then it will clamp 
all the inner bearings together between the nut, the bearing inners and the 
rear of the spindle, there is no way for the inners to spin on the spindle 
unless the hub nut was loose.
So, it doesn’t surprise me if you could remove the inner bearings by hand or if 
there was slight play.

Jim


From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2023 7:08 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Rear brake hub

Hi

I've just replaced the bearings in the rear nearside hub on an H4 (Fiesta Mk3) 
and found that the inner bearing housing has been worn so that I was able to 
turn the whole bearing insert by hand before pushing it out. The section where 
it is set is larger diameter than the rest of the tube through which the shell 
has to be pushed into place. The new bearing is better than the old, but there 
is still a problem.

I cannot find anywhere that supplies replacement Fiesta 3 hubs. There are items 
listed but these do not include the brake drums - mine are integrated.

Does anyone know where a suitable spare may be found, or what else can be done?

Thanks

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basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Pinch Bolt - Front track control arm - Saloon Mk2

[Jim Hearne]

The 2 bolts that hold the shock to the hub carrier are the only 2 special bolts 
that i know of.

Jim


From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2023 4:11 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Pinch Bolt - Front track control arm - Saloon Mk2

Thanks Jim. 
For some reason I had in back of my mind that they were special ground tapered 
bolts ;-)
John



On Monday, 11 September 2023 at 14:12:36 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

  The Ford part is Finis code 6152276 
  It's a 8mm x 40mm Torx head 

  But you can use a normal HT bolt in there with a hex or allen head , one 
  marked 10.9 or 12.9 would be best, they are stronger than the default 8.8 
  spec. 
  Black allen headed bolts tend to be 10.9 as a minimum. 
  Ideally find a bolt that has a long enough unthread section to pass through 
  one side of the hub and the slot in the balljoint, but obviously not to much 
  unthreaded so the nut bottoms out. 

  Jim 



  From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
  Sent: Monday, September 11, 2023 1:31 PM 
  To: Quantum Owners Group 
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Pinch Bolt - Front track control arm - Saloon Mk2 

  What are the correct pinch bolts for the front track control arm ball joint? 
  Mk2 saloon - Fiesta Mk2 XR2 base, Escort Mk4 control arms & anti roll bar. 
  Thanks 
  John 

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Pinch Bolt - Front track control arm - Saloon Mk2

[Jim Hearne]

The Ford part is Finis code 6152276
It's a 8mm x 40mm Torx head

But you can use a normal HT bolt in there with a hex or allen head , one 
marked 10.9 or 12.9 would be best, they are stronger than the default 8.8 
spec.

Black allen headed bolts tend to be 10.9 as a minimum.
Ideally find a bolt that has a long enough unthread section to pass through 
one side of the hub and the slot in the balljoint, but obviously not to much 
unthreaded so the nut bottoms out.


Jim



From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2023 1:31 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Pinch Bolt - Front track control arm - Saloon Mk2

What are the correct pinch bolts for the front track control arm ball joint?
Mk2 saloon - Fiesta Mk2 XR2 base, Escort Mk4 control arms & anti  roll bar.
Thanks
John

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts

[Jim Hearne]

I had a Ford RS kit for my Mk1 Fiesta that had special tie bars with a longer 
section machining so you could adjust the camber with spacing washers.

I did think of using a RS1600i or Mk3 Escort RS Turbo ( i think that was also 
adjustable but different to the RS1600i) setup on my Saloon but i think they 
were silly money even back then.
I seem to remember somebody did it, Eddie maybe.

Jim



From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2023 12:01 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts

On the escort MK3 rs1600i they used adjustable tie bars in place of the anti 
roll bar to permit castor adjustment, with the roll bar attached back to those 
tie bars with clamps. 
As our tie bars are all wiggly(highly technical term there :-) ) they might be 
tricky to modify but some custom ones may be possible if you could just shim as 
Jim suggests.

Darren 

On Sat, 5 Aug 2023, 11:35 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

  If you want to adjust the caster could you not put spacing washers between 
the anti roll bar / tie bar and the bush in the track control arm ?
  You’d only be able to move the axle to the rear doing that so maybe the wrong 
way.

  Jim


  From: Mick L 
  Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2023 9:27 AM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts

  Yeah it seems to in the mount rubber work as you can hear the squelsh on 
grease I used.


--

  From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com  on 
behalf of Jim Hearne 
  Sent: 04 August 2023 20:24
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts 

  I don't think there should be any play on the Mk1 setup.
  Where is the the play ?, between the shock shaft and the bush in the top 
mount or lower down ?

  I know some modern cars do have a lot of play in the top mount when the car 
is jacked up, like my Wife's Corsa, but it's by design.

  Jim


  On 04/08/2023 21:17, Mick L wrote:

Hi Jim,

Yeah ours has the nylon spacers on the top of the mounts already.




From: Jim Hearne mailto:j...@quantums.info
Sent: 04 August 2023 19:59
To: Mick L mailto:lawson.m...@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts 

The build manual for the saloon says fit an extra spacer in the Mk2 top 
mount, i guess that would apply to the Mk1 top mount as well.
Needs somebody with an early saloon build manual where the donor was the 
Mk1 Fiesta.
Pretty sure the toe is parallel.
I have camber adjusting bolts on my 2+2, i will see if i can find the 
settings i ended up with.

Jim



On 04/08/2023 20:48, Mick L wrote:

  Hello Everyone,

  The saloon is slowly coming along but the suspension has been a 
irritating area to tackle.

  First and foremost are mk1 top mounts supposed to have play in them when 
jacked up? I have refurbed both ours and fitted new bearings and they still do 
this and the car doesn't have a vague feel. I've never driven it hard yet as I 
simply don't think it's ready.

  Secondly does anyone have any information as regards recommended castor 
and camber/ toe in and out. Having now fitted camber bolts and having a 
re-tinker this afternoon after a rather dodgy first geometry set up. 

  It now seems to drive a hell of alot better. But if the mounts are not 
meant to have play in them I'm guessing it's my final suspension hurdle to get 
it nice and tight. Unfortunately the mounts are not mounted the same as on the 
fiesta so your adjustable mounts will do castor not camber as designed.

  Cheers 
  Mick
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e

Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts

[Jim Hearne]

If you want to adjust the caster could you not put spacing washers between the 
anti roll bar / tie bar and the bush in the track control arm ?
You’d only be able to move the axle to the rear doing that so maybe the wrong 
way.

Jim


From: Mick L 
Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2023 9:27 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts

Yeah it seems to in the mount rubber work as you can hear the squelsh on grease 
I used.




From: quantumowners@googlegroups.com  on behalf 
of Jim Hearne 
Sent: 04 August 2023 20:24
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts 

I don't think there should be any play on the Mk1 setup.
Where is the the play ?, between the shock shaft and the bush in the top mount 
or lower down ?

I know some modern cars do have a lot of play in the top mount when the car is 
jacked up, like my Wife's Corsa, but it's by design.

Jim


On 04/08/2023 21:17, Mick L wrote:

  Hi Jim,

  Yeah ours has the nylon spacers on the top of the mounts already.


--

  From: Jim Hearne mailto:j...@quantums.info
  Sent: 04 August 2023 19:59
  To: Mick L mailto:lawson.m...@hotmail.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts 

  The build manual for the saloon says fit an extra spacer in the Mk2 top 
mount, i guess that would apply to the Mk1 top mount as well.
  Needs somebody with an early saloon build manual where the donor was the Mk1 
Fiesta.
  Pretty sure the toe is parallel.
  I have camber adjusting bolts on my 2+2, i will see if i can find the 
settings i ended up with.

  Jim



  On 04/08/2023 20:48, Mick L wrote:

Hello Everyone,

The saloon is slowly coming along but the suspension has been a irritating 
area to tackle.

First and foremost are mk1 top mounts supposed to have play in them when 
jacked up? I have refurbed both ours and fitted new bearings and they still do 
this and the car doesn't have a vague feel. I've never driven it hard yet as I 
simply don't think it's ready.

Secondly does anyone have any information as regards recommended castor and 
camber/ toe in and out. Having now fitted camber bolts and having a re-tinker 
this afternoon after a rather dodgy first geometry set up. 

It now seems to drive a hell of alot better. But if the mounts are not 
meant to have play in them I'm guessing it's my final suspension hurdle to get 
it nice and tight. Unfortunately the mounts are not mounted the same as on the 
fiesta so your adjustable mounts will do castor not camber as designed.

Cheers 
Mick
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or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 

Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top mounts

[Jim Hearne]

I don't think there should be any play on the Mk1 setup.
Where is the the play ?, between the shock shaft and the bush in the top 
mount or lower down ?


I know some modern cars do have a lot of play in the top mount when the 
car is jacked up, like my Wife's Corsa, but it's by design.


Jim

On 04/08/2023 21:17, Mick L wrote:

Hi Jim,

Yeah ours has the nylon spacers on the top of the mounts already.


*From:* Jim Hearne 
*Sent:* 04 August 2023 19:59
*To:* Mick L 
*Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] Castor and camber on a saloon and top 
mounts
The build manual for the saloon says fit an extra spacer in the Mk2 
top mount, i guess that would apply to the Mk1 top mount as well.
Needs somebody with an early saloon build manual where the donor was 
the Mk1 Fiesta.

Pretty sure the toe is parallel.
I have camber adjusting bolts on my 2+2, i will see if i can find the 
settings i ended up with.


Jim


On 04/08/2023 20:48, Mick L wrote:

Hello Everyone,

The saloon is slowly coming along but the suspension has been a 
irritating area to tackle.


First and foremost are mk1 top mounts supposed to have play in them 
when jacked up? I have refurbed both ours and fitted new bearings and 
they still do this and the car doesn't have a vague feel. I've never 
driven it hard yet as I simply don't think it's ready.


Secondly does anyone have any information as regards recommended 
castor and camber/ toe in and out. Having now fitted camber bolts and 
having a re-tinker this afternoon after a rather dodgy first geometry 
set up.


 It now seems to drive a hell of alot better. But if the mounts are 
not meant to have play in them I'm guessing it's my final suspension 
hurdle to get it nice and tight. Unfortunately the mounts are not 
mounted the same as on the fiesta so your adjustable mounts will do 
castor not camber as designed.


Cheers
Mick
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Heater Matrix (Fiesta Mk2)

[Jim Hearne]

Thank you for clarifying that Matthew.
I’m obviously asynchronous messaging person.

Jim


From: Matthew Wastell 
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2023 12:36 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Heater Matrix (Fiesta Mk2)

Discord is very much like many real time chatting tools from old IRC to modern 
Slack and even Microsoft teams. 

Many people don’t thread their topics so you just get everyone talking at once, 
replies mistaken for a different topic and so on. 

Discord and chat platforms in general are really throw away messaging 
platforms, designed for comments in the moment and what is going on that 
second.  Like having a conversation in real life really.  If people reply to 
something from half an hour ago it doesn’t make sense. I’m sure we’ve all had 
experience of a deep thinker who after being asked something replies half an 
hour later.  Unless they say “in reply to your question about….” It doesn’t 
make sense. 

Unless you are forced to thread, (or even given the opportunity to do so 
easily) it will always be a mess and confuse those who are thinking it’s an 
asynchronous platform. 

I think this is why we see a general age or tech-ability split between 
synchronous and asynchronous messaging platforms. 

M




  On 19 Jul 2023, at 11:20, Jim Hearne  wrote:


   
  Funny you say that, i joined a Discord group for old computers and just 
couldn’t make head or tail of it.
  All the messages just seemed to be in time order with all subjects mixed up, 
i couldn’t work out any way to follow threads or keep track of what i had 
replied to.
  Maybe it was just me but i left after a few days.

  I will have a look at the Mini matrixs.

  Jim



  From: Darren Siepka 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2023 10:54 AM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Heater Matrix (Fiesta Mk2)

  I also agree how horrid FB is( I only have an account to use messenger!) 
  The ECU group (speeduino ) I contribute to have moved to discord after a 
short trial of slack. 
  This is much nicer for conversation than FB.

  Back to the subject.

  I also looked for a replacement and was staggered at the quality and the cost 
of a replacement.
  So looking elsewhere I found BMW mini matrixes! They are all ally and are a 
very close fit. The pipes plug in(also alloy) and could be made to use the 
original body holes if desired ( I am not) .they also are super cheap,even new!
  I am using one of these along with the matching PTC element in my MK3 box on 
my updated 2+2 build. 
  The MK2 matrix is similar .

  On Wed, 19 Jul 2023, 09:34 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

Thank you for the picture, I will have one more go at getting the alloy one 
to fit and if not i will get one of those.
In my case the matrix failed while the car was unused for over 5 years.
Despite being filled with new orange antifreeze it managed to corrode 
though the matrix and empty the entire cooling system into the footwells.
Luckily there was no carpet fitted.
I have also drilled a hole in the lowest part of the lower cover, as you 
say, you can see the first trace of a leak then instead of waiting until the 
whole lower cover has filled with water.

Jim




From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2023 11:41 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Heater Matrix (Fiesta Mk2)

I agree the alloy matrices give out a toasty heat -  I am hoping even if 
get less heat output  I get better reliability. Time will tell. 
When I get some spare time I may test/dissect the failed alloy ones to see 
if there is a common fail point. One theory I had on fails was they could be 
the weakest part of an overheated pressurised cooling system and do not handle 
overheating very well (had plenty of those). I guess they are pressure/leak 
tested on manufacture but maybe they don't handle cycles of overheating very 
well.
I forgot to post pic earlier of metal matrix snug fit in box. I have now 
drilled a few small holes in lowest part of heater box so any dribble from 
these will hopefully give an early alert to any developing leak and avoid the 
box filling up like a swmming pool BTDT




On Tuesday, 18 July 2023 at 08:51:53 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

  Hi John,
  Thank you for taking the time to keep trying to pass on your message.
  I agreed with everything you said about facebook  but unfortunately it 
seems to be where everybody is going nowadays.

  Be interesting to hear your results with the all metal one, i had tried 
one of those many years ago and the heat output seemed a lot less than the 
plastic/ aluminium ones.
  I assumed this was because there are a lot less fins on the all metal 
ones.

  Many thanks,

  Jim


  From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
  Sent: Monday, July 17, 2023 10:54 PM
  To: Quantum Owners Group 
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Heater Matrix (Fiesta Mk2)

  Jim

Re: [Quantum Owners] Heater Matrix (Fiesta Mk2)

[Jim Hearne]

Funny you say that, i joined a Discord group for old computers and just 
couldn’t make head or tail of it.
All the messages just seemed to be in time order with all subjects mixed up, i 
couldn’t work out any way to follow threads or keep track of what i had replied 
to.
Maybe it was just me but i left after a few days.

I will have a look at the Mini matrixs.

Jim



From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2023 10:54 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Heater Matrix (Fiesta Mk2)

I also agree how horrid FB is( I only have an account to use messenger!) 
The ECU group (speeduino ) I contribute to have moved to discord after a short 
trial of slack. 
This is much nicer for conversation than FB.

Back to the subject.

I also looked for a replacement and was staggered at the quality and the cost 
of a replacement.
So looking elsewhere I found BMW mini matrixes! They are all ally and are a 
very close fit. The pipes plug in(also alloy) and could be made to use the 
original body holes if desired ( I am not) .they also are super cheap,even new!
I am using one of these along with the matching PTC element in my MK3 box on my 
updated 2+2 build. 
The MK2 matrix is similar .

On Wed, 19 Jul 2023, 09:34 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

  Thank you for the picture, I will have one more go at getting the alloy one 
to fit and if not i will get one of those.
  In my case the matrix failed while the car was unused for over 5 years.
  Despite being filled with new orange antifreeze it managed to corrode though 
the matrix and empty the entire cooling system into the footwells.
  Luckily there was no carpet fitted.
  I have also drilled a hole in the lowest part of the lower cover, as you say, 
you can see the first trace of a leak then instead of waiting until the whole 
lower cover has filled with water.

  Jim




  From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2023 11:41 PM
  To: Quantum Owners Group 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Heater Matrix (Fiesta Mk2)

  I agree the alloy matrices give out a toasty heat -  I am hoping even if get 
less heat output  I get better reliability. Time will tell. 
  When I get some spare time I may test/dissect the failed alloy ones to see if 
there is a common fail point. One theory I had on fails was they could be the 
weakest part of an overheated pressurised cooling system and do not handle 
overheating very well (had plenty of those). I guess they are pressure/leak 
tested on manufacture but maybe they don't handle cycles of overheating very 
well.
  I forgot to post pic earlier of metal matrix snug fit in box. I have now 
drilled a few small holes in lowest part of heater box so any dribble from 
these will hopefully give an early alert to any developing leak and avoid the 
box filling up like a swmming pool BTDT




  On Tuesday, 18 July 2023 at 08:51:53 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

Hi John,
Thank you for taking the time to keep trying to pass on your message.
I agreed with everything you said about facebook  but unfortunately it 
seems to be where everybody is going nowadays.

Be interesting to hear your results with the all metal one, i had tried one 
of those many years ago and the heat output seemed a lot less than the plastic/ 
aluminium ones.
I assumed this was because there are a lot less fins on the all metal ones.

Many thanks,

Jim


From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2023 10:54 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Heater Matrix (Fiesta Mk2)

Jim Hearne recently posted a question on the QOC Facebook group about 
heater matrix. 
I  did try several times to post some comments there but my comments never 
appeared and I gave up so posting here instead.

Just as an aside tbh I find FB incredibly frustrating to use for groups - 
it is difficult to follow conversations/threads, poor sequencing, endless 
clicking required,  total waste of screen space, poor search... etc. etc. End 
of FB moan sorry ;)

Anyway I compared heater matrices the other day ( alloy/plastic V 
copper/brass). I am trying the all metal type this time as the the others seem 
prone to failure. The metal replacement is far more substantial - weighs almost 
twice as much and bigger in all dimensions. The fit inside heater box is very 
snug so minimal if any sealing foam required - which is great as the Ford type 
foam used throughout heater box always disintegrates over time and gets blown 
out when fan is switched on. I have also just replaced all the foam on the 
heater box flaps with some eva type foam which hopefully will last better.


John




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Re: [Quantum Owners] Fiesta Mk2 Fuse/Relay Box - Terminal/Wire removal

[Jim Hearne]

It can be done with one but once you release one side you need to keep a gentle 
pressure and tilt on the contact to stop that side reengaging while you do the 
other side. 
So it’s much easier to do both prongs at the same time.

There are big bunches of contact release tools on Amazon/Ebay nowadays but i 
don’t know if they are any good.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AUTOXBERT-Terminal-Removal-Extractor-Connector/dp/B0BNBRJNZV
One set picked at random.

Jim

From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2023 9:02 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Fiesta Mk2 Fuse/Relay Box - Terminal/Wire removal

Thanks Jim - I thought you may know ;-)

On the terminals with 2 tangs did you end up having to make a tool with 2 
prongs to press the lugs or can it be done using separate tool on each lug?

John


On Thursday, 18 May 2023 at 11:52:26 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

  It various according to the size of the terminal but they all have one or 2 
lugs on the terminal that need pressing in.
  I usually make the tool out of some welding rod filed down on the end.
  More force will just bend the lugs out into the plastic housing more and end 
up with them folding back.

  Some of the terminals are joined together for things like grounds and power, 
they may go round to several different terminals and have lugs in between.

  You can get them out, i did fairly major changes to my fuse box, replacing 
the dim dip relay positions with other things.

  Jim




  From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
  Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2023 11:28 AM
  To: Quantum Owners Group 
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Fiesta Mk2 Fuse/Relay Box - Terminal/Wire removal

  As per subject what is technique/tool for removing terninals from fuse/relay 
block? 

  It looks like the locking tang(s) are on the metal terminal (as opposed to 
housing). I have tried the usual picks/slim screwdrivers but so far have not 
been able to remove a terminal. Reluctant to use a lot of force in case I 
damage something.

  Anyone know what the actual terminals used are? Delphi, special Ford only...?

  John

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Fiesta Mk2 Fuse/Relay Box - Terminal/Wire removal

[Jim Hearne]

It various according to the size of the terminal but they all have one or 2 
lugs on the terminal that need pressing in.
I usually make the tool out of some welding rod filed down on the end.
More force will just bend the lugs out into the plastic housing more and end up 
with them folding back.

Some of the terminals are joined together for things like grounds and power, 
they may go round to several different terminals and have lugs in between.

You can get them out, i did fairly major changes to my fuse box, replacing the 
dim dip relay positions with other things.

Jim




From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2023 11:28 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Fiesta Mk2 Fuse/Relay Box - Terminal/Wire removal

As per subject what is technique/tool for removing terninals from fuse/relay 
block? 

It looks like the locking tang(s) are on the metal terminal (as opposed to 
housing). I have tried the usual picks/slim screwdrivers but so far have not 
been able to remove a terminal. Reluctant to use a lot of force in case I 
damage something.

Anyone know what the actual terminals used are? Delphi, special Ford only...?

John

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Cvh Valve timing/ cam query

[Jim Hearne]

I’m not aware of a reason to use a vernier pulley on a standard cam on a CVH 
but people do funny things.
I think all the Piper and Kent cams i’ve had have had the model number stamped 
in the dizzy end.
I think the Ford cams do have a Ford logo and a part number cast into the cam.

To be sure if it’s a standard cam you will have to start measure the lift etc

If in doubt either put a standard pulley on it for the moment.

Jim

From: Mick L 
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2023 9:45 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Cvh Valve timing/ cam query

Does anybody know if people have advanced the cam timing on cvh engines in 
relatively standard form?

Our engine is a 1600 bored out to 1800 and has a Vernier pulley fitted which is 
advanced full it seems.

I thought it must have a uprated camshaft fitted. 

Upon inspection of under the rocker it had green dot valve springs which I 
thought were standard strength?

Furthermore to add to the the mystery upon removing the dizzy there was no 
markings visible at all. So is it a standard cam fitted with a Vernier pulley? 
Or do standard ford cams have markings in the dizzy end anyway? I always 
thought aftermarket cams were stamped too so I'm a bit lost.

Thanks
Mick
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine mount Timing side

[Jim Hearne]

The rubber is moulded around the metalwork when the mount is made, no way of 
making it removable.
And as Chris said, it wasn’t possible to use the Ford mount unmodified on the 
CVH
The Quantum Mk2 Saloon was originally based on a Mk1 Fiesta with the crossflow 
engine and i believe it’s mounting did fit without modification.
Unfortunately when they switched to the Mk2 Fiesta the CVH mounting didn’t.

Are you sure the top mount needs replacing, they seem to last a lot better than 
the gearbox mounts, maybe it’s something you can do later ?

I have to say when i’m doing modifications on my Quantums i always try to 
modify parts that won’t need replacing at some point but not always feasible, 
like this engine mount.

Jim


From: Mick L 
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2023 8:31 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine mount Timing side

Not what I wanted to hear. More time taking work for a car needed for work next 
week. 

Someone needs to change this design as the mounts are hard to come by and the 
idea of them needing such modification when so rare seems silly. I  amazed it 
was so poorly designed that the rubber inserts where not removable once the 
mount was modded for longevity.




From: 'Paul S Quantum' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: 23 April 2023 20:22
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Engine mount Timing side 

No the rubber parts do not remove normally. The top upper engine mount require 
a couple of modifications.

It requires one of the tabs cutting off and a small extension welding onto the 
bottom of the mount so the lower mounting hole is moved onto the welded 
extension piece.



The mounts were normally exchanged by QSC when the kit was bought but the 
change is not that big even if you need to pay someone to modify the mount for 
you.

Best using your original as a template.



Sent from Mail for Windows



From: Mick L
Sent: 23 April 2023 20:29
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Engine mount Timing side



The  mounts on this are all shot. I've got two new gearbox ends sorted but the 
main mount is modded compared to the xr2 according to Sb.



Do the rubber Interbals come out of standard mounts to fit into the modded 
units?



Thanks

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine mount Timing side

[Jim Hearne]

The modification required is to the rubber section of the mounting, the 
bit you need to replace.
A lug is cut off and another lug is extended downwards by welding on an 
extra section.

You may be able to cut the extra section off your old mount.
It is covered in the Saloon build manual, page 18 of my copy.

It is worth replacing the gearbox mounts with Diesel versions as they 
are a bit longer lasting.


Jim

On 23/04/2023 20:29, Mick L wrote:
The  mounts on this are all shot. I've got two new gearbox ends sorted 
but the main mount is modded compared to the xr2 according to Sb.


Do the rubber Interbals come out of standard mounts to fit into the 
modded units?


Thanks
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Sump or crank seal?

[Jim Hearne]

It could be the crank seal or it could just be the sump gasket.
The CVH sump gaskets are always a pain to get leak free, especially if they are 
the 4 piece sort with cork sides.

But, it’s even harder to get the CVH gasket fitted leak free if the engine is 
in the car.
I always do them with engine out and upside down.

Jim




From: Mick L 
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2023 12:51 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Sump or crank seal?

What's people's opinions then? Before I go all out and take the motor out.

I will avoid it if needed of course as I'm already behind and have a job lined 
up hopefully in a week and a half.

Mick

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Radiator

[Jim Hearne]

If it’s a Mk2 Fiesta engine then it’s probably Mk2 Fiesta but if it’s got a 
Diesel or Zetec it could be Mk3 Fiesta.

Jim


From: Mick L 
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2023 11:23 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Radiator

Our radiator is missing alot of fins.Are they standard fiesta xr2?

May aswell do it while the engines out.

Thanks Again
Mick
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Usually starting is the problem.......

[Jim Hearne]

Good news.
I was waiting for you to ask which way round the Diode goes.
As long as the warning light still come on with the ignition on but the engine 
not started then it is the right way round.
For those technical people, the diode should should have the cathode on the 
alternator side and the Anode on the warning light side.

Jim



From: flob...@gmail.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2023 4:39 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Usually starting is the problem...

Found a potted diode with spade connections in the 12v electrics bits and 
pieces box and fitted it today. Everything as it should be now. Thought for a 
moment that the fault had gone when i moved the car this morning but then 
realised i had my foot on the brake pedal when i switched off the ignition; 
perhaps this why i had not noticed the problem before. 


On Wednesday, March 15, 2023 at 10:12:01 PM UTC flob...@gmail.com wrote:


  Sorry Jim, stupid question, you quite clearly say where the diode should go.

  On Wednesday, March 15, 2023 at 4:58:04 PM UTC Jim Hearne wrote:

I’m assuming it’s an injection engine.
What is happening is that when you turn the ignition off, power is flowing 
from the alternator warning light pin ,  through the alternator warning light 
and supplying power to the ignition / fuel pump relays.
This doesn’t happen on  carbed car as the ignition coil is powered directly 
from the ignition circuit so when you turn the ignition off you can’t  supply 
enough power through the ignition warning light to keep the ignition coil 
running.
On the injection cars everything is powered from the battery via the relays 
so doesn’t need much to keep the relays powered.

There should be a diode in series with the blue alternator warning light 
wire near the alternator to stop this problem.
Maybe the diode has gone short or maybe in the past you have always had 
something else switched on that draws enough extra power from the ignition feed 
circuit to drop the voltage low enough for the relays to open and stop the 
engine, heater fan maybe ?

Jim



From: flob...@gmail.com 
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2023 4:47 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Usually starting is the problem...
.. but not today, stopping the engine is the problem. Fired up the 
saloon today, first time for a few weeks, no problem starting but when i turned 
the key to off the engine continued to run and did so on subsequent start/stop 
tests. Only clue is ignition warning light comes  on when key turned to off. 
Checked the switched live feeds and they had 5volts on them with engine running 
and key out, enough to hold the relays i use to feed ignition/fuel pump etc. So 
where is it coming from? As it's only there when the is running the alternator 
looks a good place to start, but how or why can it cause the problem?  

Anyone know or have alternative theories/ideas?
Russ

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or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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entity with respect to liabilit

Re: [Quantum Owners] Usually starting is the problem.......

[Jim Hearne]

I’m assuming it’s an injection engine.
What is happening is that when you turn the ignition off, power is flowing from 
the alternator warning light pin ,  through the alternator warning light and 
supplying power to the ignition / fuel pump relays.
This doesn’t happen on  carbed car as the ignition coil is powered directly 
from the ignition circuit so when you turn the ignition off you can’t  supply 
enough power through the ignition warning light to keep the ignition coil 
running.
On the injection cars everything is powered from the battery via the relays so 
doesn’t need much to keep the relays powered.

There should be a diode in series with the blue alternator warning light wire 
near the alternator to stop this problem.
Maybe the diode has gone short or maybe in the past you have always had 
something else switched on that draws enough extra power from the ignition feed 
circuit to drop the voltage low enough for the relays to open and stop the 
engine, heater fan maybe ?

Jim



From: flob...@gmail.com 
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2023 4:47 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Usually starting is the problem...

.. but not today, stopping the engine is the problem. Fired up the saloon 
today, first time for a few weeks, no problem starting but when i turned the 
key to off the engine continued to run and did so on subsequent start/stop 
tests. Only clue is ignition warning light comes  on when key turned to off. 
Checked the switched live feeds and they had 5volts on them with engine running 
and key out, enough to hold the relays i use to feed ignition/fuel pump etc. So 
where is it coming from? As it's only there when the is running the alternator 
looks a good place to start, but how or why can it cause the problem?  

Anyone know or have alternative theories/ideas?
Russ

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Re: [Quantum Owners] New Boy

[Jim Hearne]

Hi,
The standard RS1800 engine is 130 PS which is about 128 bhp
So if it's had a free flow air filter and a little bit of tweaking then 
134 bhp is about right.

The donor 1.6 was only 95 PS so a fair difference.

The other facebook group is open to all Quantum owners, club members or not.
It's still private but they will let you in 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/quantumownersgroup


I will have a look at the google group settings but i don't think i can 
change anything.


Jim

On 06/02/2023 16:59, David Hill wrote:

Hi Jim,

Thank you for the welcome.

My car was based on a '94 Si (it was a 2000 build)  but it's grown an 
RS1800-spec engine along the way. I've yet to verify this but

in the documents, there a rolling road printout claiming 134BHP!

By the way, I re-signed in using my 'proper' address but the old one 
still showed at the top of the message.


I knew about the menbers-only QOG but for now, I'd rather spend on 
parts. I've found the Ford Fiesta Mk3 89-96 - Mk3Fiesta.com 
<https://www.facebook.com/groups/mk3fiesta/>

group on facebook to be a good source of info.

D.

On Monday, 6 February 2023 at 16:28:31 UTC Jim Hearne wrote:

Hi David,
Welcome to the group.
To be honest there is a lot more activity on the 2 facebook groups
now (1 is QOC members only) than there is here.
I can’t change your email address in the google group
unfortunately, only you can do that.
Easiest is to leave the group and then join again using the other
email address.
The H4i looks tidy, what engine is in it ?
Jim
*From:* David Hill
*Sent:* Monday, February 6, 2023 4:19 PM
*To:* Quantum Owners Group
*Subject:* [Quantum Owners] New Boy
Hello All,
Just poking my nose in having bought an H4i. It isn't on the road
yet but it is MOT-ed and I'm amassing parts to bring it up to my
standards.
One tiny snag is that Mr. Google won't let me sign in properly.
The email address shown is an old one and it won't let me change it.
The correct address is davidh...@outlook.com
A couple of snaps.
Cheers, David
Q10C.jpgQ1C.jpg
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Re: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 clutch issue

[Jim Hearne]

Remember the clutch cover and the clutch release bearing need to me matched, 
either low lift or normal, you can’t use a low lift cover plate with a normal 
release bearing or visa versa.

Used as a pair they should be interchangeable.

Jim


From: Dave English 
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2023 9:41 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 clutch issue

Doesn't help with the juddering problem, which, as was mentioned earlier, is 
just new cover/old plate and may improve with use, but my early 2+2 (Q2009) had 
the same problem with not enough movement on the clutch. Modifying the plastic 
clutch quadrant at the pedal helped but later I found a standard Ford clutch 
quadrant that did the job. Here's the details:
55mm Granada Mk2 / Escort Mk3 (81-86)

   Ford P/N: 78GB7L583AC


With this a standard friction plate will work and you won't need the low lift 
one.


Regards
Dave English
On Sunday, 22 January 2023 at 08:42:57 UTC Chris Fairlie wrote:

  Sorry forgot to say I will try Burton Power tomorrow.



  From: 'Chris Fairlie' via Quantum Owners Group 
[mailto:quantu...@googlegroups.com] 
  Sent: 22 January 2023 08:42
  To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
  Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 clutch issue



  Thanks Martin and Darren



  I know it should be easy to find a clutch for a CVH engine. However, when I 
first got the car, I spent a lot to time trying to get the clutch bit point off 
the floor. I have the prototype 2+2 and it turns out it is different from 
production cars and was originally fitted with a customer made clutch cable. 



  Now that I have a working set up, I am struggling to find a supplier who can 
assure me they have a direct replacement ‘LOW LIFT’ part rather than a 
compatible substitute. 



  I tried the local Ford stealer yesterday. They had a few suggestions, but 
they were special order so I wouldn’t be able to return then if they were wrong.



  Chris







  From: quantu...@googlegroups.com [mailto:quantu...@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of susanandmartin
  Sent: 21 January 2023 17:24
  To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
  Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 clutch issue



  Most of the factors sell LUK clutch kits – I got one for my Rickman (much 
older part) from Motor Parts Direct – that was over 4 years ago, but I wouldn’t 
expect a problem getting one, especially as you have the Ford part number. I 
think it was on the Total Kitcar website (it may have been in Complete Kitcar 
magazine?) that Burton Power also stock the ‘everyday’ bits for Fords, as well 
as the unusual/exotic. I’ve Found Burton to be first class – last week they 
delivered a head gasket set to me, which was very well package with 2 planks of 
wood to prevent damage during the journey – these were ideal for placing the 
cylinder head once I’d removed it 

  Martin Scott



  Sent from Mail for Windows 10



  From: 'Chris Fairlie' via Quantum Owners Group
  Sent: 21 January 2023 13:54
  To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] 2+2 clutch issue





  I've just had my 2+2 flywheel skimmed and the crank, flywheel and clutch 
cover plate balanced. Since then the clutch judders when pulling away. I kept 
the original part used clutch cover and friction plate because I couldn’t find 
a replacement. 



  Any ideas if this will settle down with more use or I do I need to replace 
the clutch.



  If I need to replace the clutch do any of you know where I can get a 
replacement for the following?



  The friction plate is marked



  Motorcraft

  90 AB 7550 CA

  LOW LIFT

  LUK



  Thanks in advance



  Chris Fairlie

  Q2-001



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Re: [Quantum Owners] Raer Axle Bump Stops

[Jim Hearne]

Yes, that is the correct arrangement, those spacers and the standard 
Fiesta bump stops mounted on the axle.
The spacers came in 2 lengths depending on when your 2+2 was made, the 
earlier ones were longer like the ones you have.

There should also be spacers on the top of the shocks with these.
The later 2+2 had spacers more like  2 cm and no spacer on the shocks.

Jim

On 22/10/2022 23:27, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:
Wondering what the standard (i.e. original Quantum) arrangement was 
for rear axle bump stops (saloon). My version of build manual does not 
seem to give any info.
Currently my car has cylindrical spacers mounted on body as per photo 
which are approx 4cm deep excluding the fixing bolt head. Were these 
part of the standard kit and intended for use in conjunction with the 
standard Fiesta rubber cone bump stops mounted on axle ?


>
IMG_20221022_150841542.jpg
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon boot skin & inner separation

[Jim Hearne]

They were joined using polyurethane adhesive , Sikaflex 221 usually.

It's going to be tricky to get more in a small gap , you might have to 
separate the inner and outer panels first.
Maybe using a cheese wire like they do with windscreens if you can find 
a gap to start at.


Jim

On 10/10/2022 17:50, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:
As per thread subject I have noticed the boot outer skin and inner 
shell are separating in places on my saloon. It looks like some sort 
of black sealant/mastic has been used on mine. Anyone know how they 
were joined originally by factory and any recommendations on method to 
fix ?


Thanks
John


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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

[Jim Hearne]

It’s very strange, i’ve just been through the wiring diagrams for every Ford i 
can think of up to around 2000 and none have a 3 pin inertia switch.
Also, anything into the Mk4 Fiesta, Ka, Focus, Mondeo age uses Purple/Orange 
wires for both sides of the inertia switch.
Using Black/Red for the fuel pump circuit stopped after the Mk3 Fiesta.

Yet, that inertia switch is a post 2000 part number.
Maybe it’s from a Mk2 KA but i though they were Fiat based,

That aside, it’s going to be the 2 thick wires that are the switch for the fuel 
pump, just ignore the thin wire.

Jim


From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2022 11:56 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

As I mentioned I found an identical inertia switch to the one fitted and 
ordered it on the basis that the loom must have been modded for it. I will of 
course drop it in and see if it works, but i seriously doubt it will because 
nothing seems to be connected.

So on the assumption that I have to wire it up, does anyone have access to 
details of how the Ka unit should be wired?

Julian

On 2022-09-26 12:59, Jim Hearne wrote:

  Alarms normally break 2 circuits, one is usually the starter and the other is 
usually the ignition feed at the ignition switch because it's easy to access.
  If you are fitting an alarm properly you should break something harder to 
bypass (breaking the ignition circuit can just be bypassed by connecting a wire 
between the battery  + and the ignition coil), the supply to the fuel pump 
would be a suitable circuit.

  The Mk3.5 1.6 SI loom is good for upgrading to a 2.0 Zetec as it's about the 
only Fiesta loom that is compatible with the Mondeo ECU pinout. 

  You may have to resort to pulling the dash to see exactly whats going on.

  Jim


  From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
  Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:50 PM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

  OK, so the chances are the loom is Mk3. The engine is a 2l Mondeo, the lights 
are the Morette mod and the loom is a shambles, I've found three extra fuses in 
the cabin and several more in the engine bay.

  I do also have an alarm - fitted by a prior owner. I was wondering about that 
being the culprit, but it works by not allowing the car to be turned over. 
However finding that both leads to and from the sensor are apparently not 
connected suggests it is not the alarm cutting power to the sensor.

  That leaves the possibility that the alarm is faulty and is interrupting the 
pump power feed which doesn't go through the sensor.

  More investigation required clearly. Or I fit the new impact sensor and route 
an entirely new power feed.





  On 2022-09-26 12:36, Jim Hearne wrote:

I was just wondering if somebody has grafted in a Mk4 loom, though why you 
would do that unless you were fitting a Mk4 dash i don't know.

There are various fuses and relays added to the side of the main fusebox 
depending on the options and spec of the car.

Jim



From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:31 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

A thought. I have noticed that the fuse box/relay holder is different from 
the Haynes photo. It does not have the three fuses to the right of the relay 
tray (ie hidden from view unless the tray is unhitched and dropped down, it 
only has the extension on the left. I assumed this was merely that Haynes 
simply showed one model with and ignored the variant without.

I don't know if that may be relevant.

On 2022-09-26 12:17, Jim Hearne wrote:

  >>The part incidentally is F2AB-9341-AA.

  That part number is too new to have come from the donor car.

  Has this car got a Mk4 or Mk5 Fiesta dash fitted ?

  Jim




  From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
  Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:10 PM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

  Hi

  Further investigation is proving tricky. Having removed the connector and 
so gained access to the loom wiring I can find no link from the fuse (F19) to 
the connector and no link from the connector to the now cut feed wire to the 
pump (there being a temporary positive feed to the pump to keep it going). Both 
should exist. None of the three wires connect to ground or indicate power at 
any time.

  The only explanation I can think of is that the unit was problematic and 
it has been short circuited and it is that connection which has failed. My 
problem of course is I have no idea where that might be. So the hunt will go on.

  Incidentally the unit is certainly the impact sensor. I managed to read 
the part number and found one on e-bay and despite it being from a Ka it is 
identical - except mine does not have t

Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

[Jim Hearne]

Alarms normally break 2 circuits, one is usually the starter and the other is 
usually the ignition feed at the ignition switch because it’s easy to access.
If you are fitting an alarm properly you should break something harder to 
bypass (breaking the ignition circuit can just be bypassed by connecting a wire 
between the battery  + and the ignition coil), the supply to the fuel pump 
would be a suitable circuit.

The Mk3.5 1.6 SI loom is good for upgrading to a 2.0 Zetec as it’s about the 
only Fiesta loom that is compatible with the Mondeo ECU pinout.  

You may have to resort to pulling the dash to see exactly whats going on.

Jim


From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:50 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

OK, so the chances are the loom is Mk3. The engine is a 2l Mondeo, the lights 
are the Morette mod and the loom is a shambles, I've found three extra fuses in 
the cabin and several more in the engine bay.

I do also have an alarm - fitted by a prior owner. I was wondering about that 
being the culprit, but it works by not allowing the car to be turned over. 
However finding that both leads to and from the sensor are apparently not 
connected suggests it is not the alarm cutting power to the sensor.

That leaves the possibility that the alarm is faulty and is interrupting the 
pump power feed which doesn't go through the sensor. 

More investigation required clearly. Or I fit the new impact sensor and route 
an entirely new power feed.





On 2022-09-26 12:36, Jim Hearne wrote:

  I was just wondering if somebody has grafted in a Mk4 loom, though why you 
would do that unless you were fitting a Mk4 dash i don't know.

  There are various fuses and relays added to the side of the main fusebox 
depending on the options and spec of the car.

  Jim



  From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
  Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:31 PM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

  A thought. I have noticed that the fuse box/relay holder is different from 
the Haynes photo. It does not have the three fuses to the right of the relay 
tray (ie hidden from view unless the tray is unhitched and dropped down, it 
only has the extension on the left. I assumed this was merely that Haynes 
simply showed one model with and ignored the variant without.

  I don't know if that may be relevant.

  On 2022-09-26 12:17, Jim Hearne wrote:

>>The part incidentally is F2AB-9341-AA.

That part number is too new to have come from the donor car.

Has this car got a Mk4 or Mk5 Fiesta dash fitted ?

Jim




From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:10 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

Hi

Further investigation is proving tricky. Having removed the connector and 
so gained access to the loom wiring I can find no link from the fuse (F19) to 
the connector and no link from the connector to the now cut feed wire to the 
pump (there being a temporary positive feed to the pump to keep it going). Both 
should exist. None of the three wires connect to ground or indicate power at 
any time.

The only explanation I can think of is that the unit was problematic and it 
has been short circuited and it is that connection which has failed. My problem 
of course is I have no idea where that might be. So the hunt will go on.

Incidentally the unit is certainly the impact sensor. I managed to read the 
part number and found one on e-bay and despite it being from a Ka it is 
identical - except mine does not have the red button, just a hole where the red 
button should be! So perhaps that explains the disconnection theory. It broke 
so it was dispensed with. Anyway, I have the e-bay unit on order.

The part incidentally is F2AB-9341-AA.

Now I just have to find the bodge.

Regards and thanks for all the help







On 2022-09-26 09:12, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:



  Thanks for the additional information, very useful.

  On 2022-09-25 23:20, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:

Inertia switches are readily available from breakers, Ebay etc. Most 
are 3 pin but often connector only uses 2 of the pins.  
The one I fitted in my saloon came from a Ford Fusion, Fiesta or 
similar (the type with yellow top).
If you get one from breakers best to get complete with male connector 
plug and short section of wiring harness - this make it easy to wire into 
existing loom. Failing that you need to make connector plug - easy enough - 
most are 3 way AMP connector.
In my setup I also installed a bypass switch and a dashboard warning 
led to show if inertia switch has been triggered (this requires 3rd wire 
connection).

John




On Sunday, 25 September 2022 at 16:33:07 UTC+1 julian

Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

[Jim Hearne]

I was just wondering if somebody has grafted in a Mk4 loom, though why you 
would do that unless you were fitting a Mk4 dash i don’t know.

There are various fuses and relays added to the side of the main fusebox 
depending on the options and spec of the car.

Jim



From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:31 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

A thought. I have noticed that the fuse box/relay holder is different from the 
Haynes photo. It does not have the three fuses to the right of the relay tray 
(ie hidden from view unless the tray is unhitched and dropped down, it only has 
the extension on the left. I assumed this was merely that Haynes simply showed 
one model with and ignored the variant without.

I don't know if that may be relevant.

On 2022-09-26 12:17, Jim Hearne wrote:

  >>The part incidentally is F2AB-9341-AA.

  That part number is too new to have come from the donor car.

  Has this car got a Mk4 or Mk5 Fiesta dash fitted ?

  Jim




  From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
  Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:10 PM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

  Hi

  Further investigation is proving tricky. Having removed the connector and so 
gained access to the loom wiring I can find no link from the fuse (F19) to the 
connector and no link from the connector to the now cut feed wire to the pump 
(there being a temporary positive feed to the pump to keep it going). Both 
should exist. None of the three wires connect to ground or indicate power at 
any time.

  The only explanation I can think of is that the unit was problematic and it 
has been short circuited and it is that connection which has failed. My problem 
of course is I have no idea where that might be. So the hunt will go on.

  Incidentally the unit is certainly the impact sensor. I managed to read the 
part number and found one on e-bay and despite it being from a Ka it is 
identical - except mine does not have the red button, just a hole where the red 
button should be! So perhaps that explains the disconnection theory. It broke 
so it was dispensed with. Anyway, I have the e-bay unit on order.

  The part incidentally is F2AB-9341-AA.

  Now I just have to find the bodge.

  Regards and thanks for all the help







  On 2022-09-26 09:12, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:



Thanks for the additional information, very useful.

On 2022-09-25 23:20, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:

  Inertia switches are readily available from breakers, Ebay etc. Most are 
3 pin but often connector only uses 2 of the pins.  
  The one I fitted in my saloon came from a Ford Fusion, Fiesta or similar 
(the type with yellow top).
  If you get one from breakers best to get complete with male connector 
plug and short section of wiring harness - this make it easy to wire into 
existing loom. Failing that you need to make connector plug - easy enough - 
most are 3 way AMP connector.
  In my setup I also installed a bypass switch and a dashboard warning led 
to show if inertia switch has been triggered (this requires 3rd wire 
connection). 

  John




  On Sunday, 25 September 2022 at 16:33:07 UTC+1 julian wrote:
Hi

I have found an air bag sensor (though there are none in the car of 
course) and close by another potential suspect - see attached. It's the right 
sort of size but has three connections where the manual says two, although one 
appears at least to be the right colour code. Also it has no reset button. 
However what it does have at the top is a cylinder which might once have been 
the housing for a plunger.

I haven't yet tried testing anything like circuit tracing because the 
plastic of the connector look easy to break. If it is the right unit, I will 
attempt to remove it and see if it can be reset.

Alternatively do you know if a replacement might be obtained?

Julian




On 2022-09-23 14:33, Jim Hearne wrote:

  It's bigger than you might think, maybe 50 x 40 x 30 with the red 
button on the top.

  Jim


  From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
  Sent: Friday, September 23, 2022 2:30 PM
  To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

  All

  I'm assuming from what I can see on the web it's likely to be a small 
flattish black box.

  Fingers crossed I can find it.

  Thanks as ever for the help



  On 2022-09-23 14:09, susanandmartin wrote:

As Steve said, near the door (A) pillar is a common place. In a 
Mondeo (company car) a work colleague had a flat tyre and changed it, then the 
vehicle wouldn't start – you can imagine he was pretty exasperated. It turned 
out the inertia switch was in the boot near where he dropped the punctured 
tyre

Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

[Jim Hearne]

>>The part incidentally is F2AB-9341-AA.

That part number is too new to have come from the donor car.

Has this car got a Mk4 or Mk5 Fiesta dash fitted ?

Jim




From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:10 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

Hi

Further investigation is proving tricky. Having removed the connector and so 
gained access to the loom wiring I can find no link from the fuse (F19) to the 
connector and no link from the connector to the now cut feed wire to the pump 
(there being a temporary positive feed to the pump to keep it going). Both 
should exist. None of the three wires connect to ground or indicate power at 
any time.

The only explanation I can think of is that the unit was problematic and it has 
been short circuited and it is that connection which has failed. My problem of 
course is I have no idea where that might be. So the hunt will go on.

Incidentally the unit is certainly the impact sensor. I managed to read the 
part number and found one on e-bay and despite it being from a Ka it is 
identical - except mine does not have the red button, just a hole where the red 
button should be! So perhaps that explains the disconnection theory. It broke 
so it was dispensed with. Anyway, I have the e-bay unit on order. 

The part incidentally is F2AB-9341-AA.

Now I just have to find the bodge.

Regards and thanks for all the help







On 2022-09-26 09:12, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:



  Thanks for the additional information, very useful.

  On 2022-09-25 23:20, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:

Inertia switches are readily available from breakers, Ebay etc. Most are 3 
pin but often connector only uses 2 of the pins.  
The one I fitted in my saloon came from a Ford Fusion, Fiesta or similar 
(the type with yellow top).
If you get one from breakers best to get complete with male connector plug 
and short section of wiring harness - this make it easy to wire into existing 
loom. Failing that you need to make connector plug - easy enough - most are 3 
way AMP connector.
In my setup I also installed a bypass switch and a dashboard warning led to 
show if inertia switch has been triggered (this requires 3rd wire connection).  

John




On Sunday, 25 September 2022 at 16:33:07 UTC+1 julian wrote:
  Hi

  I have found an air bag sensor (though there are none in the car of 
course) and close by another potential suspect - see attached. It's the right 
sort of size but has three connections where the manual says two, although one 
appears at least to be the right colour code. Also it has no reset button. 
However what it does have at the top is a cylinder which might once have been 
the housing for a plunger.

  I haven't yet tried testing anything like circuit tracing because the 
plastic of the connector look easy to break. If it is the right unit, I will 
attempt to remove it and see if it can be reset. 

  Alternatively do you know if a replacement might be obtained? 

  Julian




  On 2022-09-23 14:33, Jim Hearne wrote:

It's bigger than you might think, maybe 50 x 40 x 30 with the red 
button on the top.

Jim


From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2022 2:30 PM
To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

All

I'm assuming from what I can see on the web it's likely to be a small 
flattish black box.

Fingers crossed I can find it.

Thanks as ever for the help



On 2022-09-23 14:09, susanandmartin wrote:

  As Steve said, near the door (A) pillar is a common place. In a 
Mondeo (company car) a work colleague had a flat tyre and changed it, then the 
vehicle wouldn't start – you can imagine he was pretty exasperated. It turned 
out the inertia switch was in the boot near where he dropped the punctured 
tyre/wheel!

  Martin Scott 



  Sent from Mail for Windows 10



  From: 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group
  Sent: 23 September 2022 13:41
  To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch



  Julian,

  Not sure about a standard location, but I think the wiring would 
naturally position this in the passenger foot well area. Mine was attached to 
the chassis door pillar in the passenger foot well.

  Regards,
  Steve

  On 23/09/2022 13:38, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:

Hi

My H4 cut out unexpectedly at the MoT garage after being driven 
into the brake test equipment which involved the car being grounded! Looking at 
the circuit diagram there are several potential reasons why this happened, most 
of which I know how to diagnose and where to look. But one possible potential 
problem is the 

Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

[Jim Hearne]

It’s bigger than you might think, maybe 50 x 40 x 30 with the red button on the 
top.

Jim


From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2022 2:30 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

All

I'm assuming from what I can see on the web it's likely to be a small flattish 
black box. 

Fingers crossed I can find it.

Thanks as ever for the help



On 2022-09-23 14:09, susanandmartin wrote:

  As Steve said, near the door (A) pillar is a common place. In a Mondeo 
(company car) a work colleague had a flat tyre and changed it, then the vehicle 
wouldn't start – you can imagine he was pretty exasperated. It turned out the 
inertia switch was in the boot near where he dropped the punctured tyre/wheel!

  Martin Scott 



  Sent from Mail for Windows 10



  From: 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group
  Sent: 23 September 2022 13:41
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch



  Julian,

  Not sure about a standard location, but I think the wiring would naturally 
position this in the passenger foot well area. Mine was attached to the chassis 
door pillar in the passenger foot well.

  Regards,
  Steve

  On 23/09/2022 13:38, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:

Hi

My H4 cut out unexpectedly at the MoT garage after being driven into the 
brake test equipment which involved the car being grounded! Looking at the 
circuit diagram there are several potential reasons why this happened, most of 
which I know how to diagnose and where to look. But one possible potential 
problem is the impact sensor which is shown in the Haynes manual.

Does anyone know if these are usually refitted in an H4 and if so is there 
a 'standard' location? It might help me locate it without having to dismantle 
the entire vehicle. If anyone has a photo of the actual unit I'm looking for, 
that would also help.

Thanks

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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

[Jim Hearne]

That is the location on the donor car, the passenger footwell just next to the 
door pillar.

Can’t see how or why a car would be grounded on the brake test though.
More likely they bumped it into the rollers a bit hard and it tripped the 
cutout, especially if it was less firmly mounted than on the donor car.

Jim


From: 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2022 1:41 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

Julian,

Not sure about a standard location, but I think the wiring would naturally 
position this in the passenger foot well area. Mine was attached to the chassis 
door pillar in the passenger foot well.

Regards,
Steve


On 23/09/2022 13:38, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:

  Hi

  My H4 cut out unexpectedly at the MoT garage after being driven into the 
brake test equipment which involved the car being grounded! Looking at the 
circuit diagram there are several potential reasons why this happened, most of 
which I know how to diagnose and where to look. But one possible potential 
problem is the impact sensor which is shown in the Haynes manual.

  Does anyone know if these are usually refitted in an H4 and if so is there a 
'standard' location? It might help me locate it without having to dismantle the 
entire vehicle. If anyone has a photo of the actual unit I'm looking for, that 
would also help.

  Thanks

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

[Jim Hearne]

Looking on the Ford parts catalogue.

The 32 litre side sender tank was used on Mk1 XR2 from 1.10.1981, to 
31.08.1983 and non Mk1 and Mk2 Fiestas until 1986

The Finis code for this seal is 1492183

The 40 litre top sender tank was used on Mk1 XR2 from 31.08.1983 and all Mk2 
XR2,  and non XR2 Mk2 Fiestas after  1986 , the seal for this tank is Finis 
code 1549720


These are the only 2 seals listed.


It looks like there were at least 3 different filler pipes, a metal one for 
the 34L tank, a metal one for the 40L tank on pre 1986 cars and the plastic 
one for the 40L tank on all the later cars.


You can see all the details on a online version of the Ford

https://ford.catalogs-parts.com/#{client:1;page:part;lang:en;category:car;catalog:4;param:no;group:0;groupsubgroup:1518;subgroup:15140;subsubgroup:65647}#13

You might need to join those lines together.

Jim



From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2022 2:02 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

Several folks have stated MK1 & MK2 filler neck seals are the same but from 
what I have found this is not always the case.
One complete tank & filler pipe I have is an earlier side mounted sender 
type - the seal on that one takes Ford mm metal filler pipe.
The other tank I have in saloon is a later top mounted sender type - the 
seal on that one also takes a 50mm filler pipe.
However the aperture diameter on these tanks where filler seal fits is 
completely different - the later tank is much bigger.

So far I have found and tried 2 different Fiesta seals listed by suppliers.
The first one supplied would be the correct one for the early type tank.
The second one supplied is bigger OD but is not correct for my later tank 
(it takes a pipe approx 55mm diameter but fits in a smaller diameter tank 
aperture than aperture in my tank) . I think this type is for tanks using 
later plastic filler pipe
So there are at least 2 types of standard Fiesta tank seal and so far I have 
not managed to find a seal which fits my later tank aperture - this implies 
my later tank is either non standard or there was at least one other type of 
seal used at some point in production.
My old seal is rock hard but otherwise decent condition so I hope to get a 
reproduction made using it as template. If that fails it looks like I would 
need to change tank and modify filler to a setup for which seals are 
available ;-(

John
.





On Thursday, 15 September 2022 at 10:32:25 UTC+1 Chris G wrote:

When I changed mine I discovered the seals for MK1 and MK2 are the same part 
but with different part numbers.
My filler neck was made wider with a short length of metal tube where it 
goes into the tank. Then the filler neck went inside with a short section of 
flexible hose attached.


Chris G

From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2022 8:40 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

On my saloon I need to replace the grommet/seal (where filler pipe enters) 
on my MK2 tank (40l top sender type) as it has gone really hard with age.
But I am struggling to find a correct replacement seal. My filler pipe is 
the metal type 50mm diameter. The aperture in the tank where seal fits is 
approx 61mm inside diameter.
I have found seals to fit 50mm pipe but they are much smaller tank fitting 
diameter - these match the seal on an old earlier type tank (side sender) II 
have in garage.
So does anyone happen to know if the seal I need is a Fiesta part or was it 
sourced from another car?

John

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Recomended Rear brake cylinder size Saloon

[Jim Hearne]

If you have rubber flexible brake pipes it could be a partially collapsed 
internally pipe which is blocking under pressure.

Jim

From: Hans Defauwes 
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2022 9:20 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Recomended Rear brake cylinder size Saloon

Hi John,

I can’t remember seeing  any G valves underneath the car.
I’ll check again soon.

At the moment rear cylinders are 17,5mm

Hans


From: mailto:lists...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2022 12:08 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Recomended Rear brake cylinder size Saloon

The QSC recommended rear cylinder size seemed to change a few times. You did 
not mention if you have G valve in rear circuit. If you were not suffering with 
rear wheel locking then probably best to just replace existing cylinders with 
same (size is usually marked on cylinder).  I do not have G valve on my saloon 
and rears are 15mm. 

John



On Saturday, 10 September 2022 at 11:07:03 UTC+1 Hans wrote:

  Dear All
  What is the recomended rear brake cylinder size for a QSC saloon Q113?
  17,5 or 20mm

  Hans




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Re: [Quantum Owners] Left Rear brake problem

[Jim Hearne]

Has your car got the pressure limiting valves on the rear brakes ? , usually 
mounted under the floor across from the fuel tank.
Maybe one is stuck.

Jim


From: Hans Defauwes 
Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2022 6:30 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Left Rear brake problem

Dear All,

My left rear brake has much less braking power than right
MOT failure  0.2 vs 0.8 
Replaced brake drums (right had cracks on brake surface)
Replaced brake shoes
Bleeded the rear brakes
Both cylinder are less than 2 years ago replaced (17,5mm) incl. the copper rear 
axle brakeline (outside diamater 5mm)
Took the left brakeshoes off and tested the cylinder – it is not stuck. moves 
freely in and out – by slightly pushing the brake pedal and by hand, no leak.
Put a bit of grease on the ratched mechanism
Slightly sanded the left bakeshoe, decrease it with brake cleaner, roughed the 
inside of the brake drum (60 grid)
Any sugestions?
Hans
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Brake Servo Problems

[Jim Hearne]

The would be more servos around if Ford had thought to paint them with paint 
that was brake fluid proof.

The comp brake bias setup won’t pass a IVA test so don’t use it on a car that 
needs a IVA
And you do loose the servo.

Jim


From: 'Paul S Quantum' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Thursday, September 8, 2022 4:52 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Brake Servo Problems

We grew tired of the original servos failing. From the 5 failed servos here its 
always the big diaphragm that fails, well it is with the ones we have here. We 
did manage to patch a couple of them but the repair held but they failed 
quickly at a different point & of all the seals the big diaphragm is NLA.

Finding a good early Ka or Mondeo servo can be tricky with the good ones 
fetching silly money.

 

We went down the compbrake bias brake setup which is a bolt on conversion that 
replaces the original servo and master cylinder.

Not cheap mind but a permanent solution plus has the added advantage of cheap 
easy to get master cylinders and the ability to adjust the brake bias to 
exactly as you want it.

 

Sent from Mail for Windows

 

From: 'Bill Allison' via Quantum Owners Group
Sent: 08 September 2022 14:08
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Brake Servo Problems

 

An extremely useful source of info on Mk1 and 2 Fiesta parts and substitutes 
and suppliers thereof is the Ford Fiesta MK1 / MK2 owners club

 

 

Bill 

 

On Thursday, 8 September 2022 at 12:19:50 BST, Jim Hearne  
wrote: 

 

 

There are 2 very different master cylinder, servo and transfer bar setups on 
the Mk2 Fiesta

1986 was the changeover year so we need to work out which setup you have.

Can you send a picture ?

 

Unfortunately parts for both setups are vary hard to find.

 

If you have the ability to fabricate parts then there are various upgrades that 
can be done to either KA or Mondeo master cylinders and servos.

I don’t know if there are any off the shelf conversion kits though.

 

Jim

 

 

 

From: John Hogg 

Sent: Thursday, September 8, 2022 12:01 PM

To: Quantum Owners Group 

Subject: [Quantum Owners] Brake Servo Problems

 

Dear All 

 

I hope someone can help.  My recently purchased 2+2 has terrible brakes.  I 
have replaced or refurbished the brake calipers and the pads are good.  I 
purchased a replacement Servo but found it was very different to the original 
one fitted.  I have tried to fit the new servo but find it is different in 
every sense.

 

Can anyone direct me to, or supply me with, a working servo for a 1986 1600 CVH 
engined Fiesta or the part number for.

 

Failing a replacement - does anyone know what else it can be - the pressure 
required to get the brakes to work is as if there is no assistance from the 
servo.

 

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers  

 

John

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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained

Re: [Quantum Owners] Brake Servo Problems

[Jim Hearne]

There are 2 very different master cylinder, servo and transfer bar setups on 
the Mk2 Fiesta
1986 was the changeover year so we need to work out which setup you have.
Can you send a picture ?

Unfortunately parts for both setups are vary hard to find.

If you have the ability to fabricate parts then there are various upgrades that 
can be done to either KA or Mondeo master cylinders and servos.
I don’t know if there are any off the shelf conversion kits though.

Jim



From: John Hogg 
Sent: Thursday, September 8, 2022 12:01 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Brake Servo Problems

Dear All 

I hope someone can help.  My recently purchased 2+2 has terrible brakes.  I 
have replaced or refurbished the brake calipers and the pads are good.  I 
purchased a replacement Servo but found it was very different to the original 
one fitted.  I have tried to fit the new servo but find it is different in 
every sense.

Can anyone direct me to, or supply me with, a working servo for a 1986 1600 CVH 
engined Fiesta or the part number for.

Failing a replacement - does anyone know what else it can be - the pressure 
required to get the brakes to work is as if there is no assistance from the 
servo.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers  

John
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

[Jim Hearne]

Remember the early Mk2 Saloons were based on a Mk1 Fiesta donor so the early 
manual probably would only mention that.

Mk2 Fiesta owners must have a similar problem with tank seals.

Jim



From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Thursday, September 8, 2022 11:53 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

I have 2 versions of saloon assembly manual. The version 1.0 copy briefly 
states Fiesta MK1 filler pipe must be used and cut and sleeved - no real detail 
just a photo..An obviously later pdf copy (but version not stated) of manual I 
have gives much more detail of cutting, sleeving and joining metal filler pipe 
with hose and clips. 
On my car which was a factory build (around late 1991 with Mk2 XR2 donor) the 
metal filler pipe is one continuous pipe - the Ford pipe has clearly been 
carefully cut  and welded (very neatly) in several places with breather pipe 
correctly preserved. There are no sleeves. My guess is QSC did this as an 
improved solution over joining sections with flexi hose and jubilee clips. 
The seal is a puzzle - it has no code markings. it does not match the standard  
ones I have found  for Fiesta, it could be custom seal or a pattern tank 
(unlikekly). My guess is it is from another Ford of similar era ?
If all else fails I could always get a new seal made using old one as model.
ps

If anyone has a MK2 top sender type tank lying around could they please measure 
the inside diameter of the filler pipe aperture - this would help me confirm if 
my tank is standard.
Thanks


On Thursday, 8 September 2022 at 09:53:09 UTC+1 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

  It is – but I remember there was an additional metal piece as shown in the 
saloon assembly manual.

  Martin Scott



  Sent from Mail for Windows 10



  From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
  Sent: 07 September 2022 22:28
  To: Quantum Owners Group
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal



  @Martin - is that using metal filler pipe into a later type tank?



  On Wednesday, September 7, 2022 at 10:12:20 PM UTC+1 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

Mine used a standard Fiesta seal.

Martin Scott



Sent from Mail for Windows 10



From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
Sent: 07 September 2022 20:40
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal



On my saloon I need to replace the grommet/seal (where filler pipe enters)  
on my MK2 tank (40l top sender type) as it has gone really hard with age.

But I am struggling to find a correct replacement seal. My filler pipe is 
the metal type 50mm diameter. The aperture in the tank where seal fits is 
approx 61mm inside diameter.

I have found seals to fit 50mm pipe but they are much smaller tank fitting 
diameter - these match the seal on an old earlier type tank (side sender) II 
have in garage.

So does anyone happen to know if the seal I need is a Fiesta part or was it 
sourced from another car?

John



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or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

[Jim Hearne]

The earlier tank (side sender) used the metal filler pipe , the later tank (top 
sender) used the plastic filler pipe.
I don’t think you can mix the 2 as the pipes are a different size.

Having said that, my saloon has the later tank and the saloon has to use the 
metal filler pipe as it is cut and joined with a flexible section.
I can’t remember what i did to make it work though (don’t you hate getting old).
I may well have welded a sleeve onto the metal pipe filler pipe to make it the 
larger diameter.

I know i left the small pipe inside the filler pipe out, the one that lets the 
air back up the filler pipe, i thought, it can’t be that bad without it.
Wrong, it can, that’s still on the todo list to fix.

It was hard to find good tank seals even back then , 2006

Jim


From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2022 10:28 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

@Martin - is that using metal filler pipe into a later type tank? 



On Wednesday, September 7, 2022 at 10:12:20 PM UTC+1 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

  Mine used a standard Fiesta seal.

  Martin Scott



  Sent from Mail for Windows 10



  From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
  Sent: 07 September 2022 20:40
  To: Quantum Owners Group
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal



  On my saloon I need to replace the grommet/seal (where filler pipe enters)  
on my MK2 tank (40l top sender type) as it has gone really hard with age.

  But I am struggling to find a correct replacement seal. My filler pipe is the 
metal type 50mm diameter. The aperture in the tank where seal fits is approx 
61mm inside diameter.

  I have found seals to fit 50mm pipe but they are much smaller tank fitting 
diameter - these match the seal on an old earlier type tank (side sender) II 
have in garage.

  So does anyone happen to know if the seal I need is a Fiesta part or was it 
sourced from another car?

  John



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Re: [Quantum Owners] Quantum 2+2

[Jim Hearne]

Hi Alex,
They come up for sale occasionally.
You best bet is to ask on 1 of the 2 facebook groups (1 is only accessible to 
club members).

Jim


From: alex mcghee 
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2022 2:50 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Quantum 2+2

Hi 


I have just bought 1 of these cars and wonder how easy is it to get a hardtop
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: quantum saloon carpet patterns please

[Jim Hearne]

Hi John,

The 2+2 floor is really too different in shape and size to use the donor carpet.
I just cut mine to match the floor without using any templates.
Do the sills, tunnel , bulkhead and the bit in front of the rear seat as 
separate bit, then do the flat floor areas as 4 mats.
At least that was how i did it.

Jim

From: John Hogg 
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2022 5:44 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: quantum saloon carpet patterns please

Hi ti all - this is my first post on this site.  I have recently bought a 2+2 
completed in 2000.  I am going through the car at present and will get to the 
carpets and interior soon.  Do other builder use the original fiesta carpets or 
do they have to make their own??  If so does anyone have patterns for a 2+2??   

Thanks in anticipation

Yours  - John 



On Friday, 28 January 2011 at 20:59:31 UTC Dave the Subbie wrote:

  I think that Andy Heaton said, a few months ago, that he had a set of 
  patterns for the Coupe. Have a look through the old postings on this 
  group. 
  Dave. 

  On Jan 25, 10:31 am, "Hamish Freeman"  
  wrote: 
  > Hi, 
  > 
  > In the absence of a full set of patterns, the general approach to this is 
to 
  > use newspaper pressed into shape on the floor, from which you can either 
cut 
  > to the corners or work out the intersection for stitching together a fully 
  > fitted covering.  I used this approach for both my H4 and my Beauford, the 
  > latter having a fully fitted carpet from front to rear including over the 
  > transmission tunnel, around the inner sills and the foot wells.  Newspaper 
  > is easy to join and to tear to get the shape and once you have a rough 
shape 
  > it is easy to go back with a rough cut shape with radial cuts around any 
  > corner to allow you to bend the corner more accurately. 
  > 
  > Good luck! 
  > 
  > Hamish 
  > 
  > -Original Message- 
  > From: fugieian 
  > Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 9:17 PM 
  > To: Quantum Owners Group 
  > Subject: [Quantum Owners] quantum saloon carpet patterns please 
  > 
  > hello to all you like minded sensible kit car enthusiasts,i have owned 
  > my quantum saloon for some years now,and in the last 3 years my son 
  > has also become a quantum saloon owner,both having recently passed 
  > their respective m.o.t. tests again with no problems, i have always 
  > had an automotive interest from being a small child,and now 40 years 
  > on this has developed into kitcars,having 2 saloons-mine 
  > 1.6cvh,kingfisher blue C515 FVX ,ultra reliable,my sons navy blue 
  > saloon B10 ACD 1.1 cvh powered,and my summer toy a 1981 uva fugitive 
  > sand rail buggy with an alfa engine,which if you have been on the show 
  > scene may have seen being towed by my aforementioned quanty.,anyway- 
  > one reason ive come here is to ask if anyone has a set of carpet 
  > cutting patterns for the saloon model,i only have the builders manual 
  > for this which mentions them at the back. 
  > this would be really helpful as i have a fresh engine for this 
  > year,and a complete mint xr2 interior -seats/door cards etc,and after 
  > stripping out the existing interior and carpets, which are too worn 
  > for patterns ,i will be fitting new-hence my need for these. i hope 
  > you can help,thank you. 
  > 
  > p.s.i almost forgot to mention my last but not least vehicle-a 1920s 
  > replica van,getting rebuilt for work/promotion for this march. 
  > 
  > -- 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Gearbox Woes

[Jim Hearne]

Yes, you are exactly right, the early gearbox and late linkage is a bad 
combination that will cause the problems you describe.
The only real fix is to have a matching pair, the gearbox changed internally 
when the gate was fitted there so retrofitting the gate isn’t really an option.

I suppose theoretically you might be able to make an external gate plate to go 
over the gearchange lever to make sure it only moves in valid paths.

Jim


From: Tony Hart 
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2021 4:39 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Gearbox Woes

Since I bought the 2+2 last year I've sorted out most of it problems (it was 
DIRE!). But one thing I've never got to the bottom of is the gear change. 

The lever is floppy & has no "feel". At first I put this down to a worn 
linkage, but I've refurbished all of that & it's only a little better - I can 
at least tell which gear it might be about to select. Having trawled the 
internet, it looks like the early Fiestas had gear selection feel - the "gates" 
if you like, in the selector, while the later ones had it in the gearbox. 
Certainly My car has an early gearbox & a late gear change so that's a 
plausible suggestion.

Anyone know enough about Fiesta gearboxes to confirm?

Anyone had a similar problem & fixed it?
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Morning All

[Jim Hearne]

Hi Tony,
Welcome to the group.
Been reading your blog, well, mostly the Quantum bits.
You certainly seem to have had fun with the electrics on it.

I’m pretty good with car electrics (being an Electronics design Engineer helps) 
so if you still have troubles post the details here.

Jim


From: Tony Hart 
Sent: Wednesday, October 6, 2021 10:27 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Morning All

Just joined after some confusing IT issues. 

Based in Camberley I have a 2+2 & a Stylus, previous kits being a Rickman soft 
top (X-flow - Pinto - injected Pinto - 1.8 Zetec), a Space Ranger (don't ask!) 
& a Fury (X-flow - the one from the Ranger, Zetec).

The 2+2 came with a 1.4CVH & was just about undrivable, but now has a 1.8 
Zetec, has been more or less re-wired & works OK albeit with  few problems 
still.

I have a blog at blatterbeast.blogspot.com if you're having trouble sleeping & 
the 2+2 stuff begins in Julyish last year.

So - HELLO!
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Seats - Saloon, 2+2..

[Jim Hearne]

The Tigra is based on a Corsa and they have some nice leather seats, though i 
think they all have side airbags.

Jim




From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 12:24 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Seats - Saloon, 2+2..

I have Corsa seats in both saloon and 2+2. 
The earlier ones had simpler to modify rears with only a simple wire frame 
support on the base squab. The later ones have a big pressed steel plate.
With a little heat and trimming you can also use the rear quarter panel cards 
in a saloon too in a saloon.
The sporty model seats can be firm but are very comfortable and supportive.
Mine were from an sxi( Corsa c year) and Sri (Corsa D year) models, all 3 door 
versions .
Note the Corsa D may have side air bags but these are easy to decommission for 
safety.
Some models have bucket looking seats with harness slots!

Darren

On Sun, 26 Sep 2021, 17:23 rob hancock,  wrote:

  Hi 
  Mazda RX8 seats also fit and have a simple electric motor to wire up (purple 
and grey I think) also ford ka and bmw e46 coupe also fit
  Regards Rob 

  On Sun, 26 Sep 2021, 16:59 list...@liberator-systems.co.uk, 
 wrote:

@calma 
Thanks I had been looking at MX5 seats as they seem to be a popular choice 
for kit/older cars. Did you specifically choose MK1 seats? - I have been trying 
to find difference between the various MX5 MKs. One  issue I have seen comments 
about with MX5 seat swaps is that they make the drivers seating position 
high(er) - is that something you found?

MGF/TF seats appear to be another popular swap on other cars - anyone tried 
that?

Ideally I want seats with tilt, good support, not leather. 
On Saturday, 25 September 2021 at 22:32:35 UTC+1 calma...@hotmail.co.uk 
wrote:

  I have mk 1 Mazda MX5 seats in mine, not to bad to adapt runners with a 
bit of boxed steel; 


  On Friday, 24 September 2021 at 22:31:45 UTC+1 
list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:

Currently my saloon has XR2 front seats. These are just about OK for 
road use but lack decent support for track days. Looking for suggestions on 
easy swap reasonable cost alternatives.  Escort RS Recaros are apparently  a 
straight swap but they go for silly money! 

John

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Re: [Quantum Owners] FW: Quantum 2+2 weight

[Jim Hearne]

I thought if they didn’t know the spec for the car they are supposed to test 
the brakes on a road test with the inertia tester in the footwell.
That’s how my 2+2 has always been tested.

Is Dominic in the group or, Jan, are you forwarding the replys ?

Jim


From: susanandmartin 
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2021 10:57 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] FW: Quantum 2+2 weight

An interesting one. When I took my Q saloon for IVA they came up with a weight 
of around 1200kg (figure may be on copy of MAC?), this was with the car wheels 
revolving and didn’t seem particularly accurate as the vehicle was pitching up 
and down all the time.  I was able to use corner weight at a Ford facility and 
the total was 870kg (seems about correct c/f Q brochure). I think it’s come up 
with vastly different weights when it had been MOT’d on rollers that supposedly 
measure the weight. This doesn’t help Dominic’s case, but gives some insight.

Martin Scott

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: 'Robert Craig' via Quantum Owners Group
Sent: 23 September 2021 21:48
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] FW: Quantum 2+2 weight

 

The original brochure listed it as 820 Kgs
Bob Craig

Sent from my iPad





  On 23 Sep 2021, at 21:38, 'janhaines30' via Quantum Owners Group 
 wrote:

  

  Hi

   

  Can anyone help Dominic please

   

  Jan Haines 

  QOC Membership secretary 

   

   

   

  Sent from my Galaxy

   

   

   Original message 

  From: Dominic Byrnes  

  Date: 23/09/2021 19:44 (GMT+00:00) 

  To: janhaines30 , Richard Byrnes 
 

  Subject: Quantum 2+2 weight 

   

  Hi Jan, 



  I wonder if someone in the owners club can help me with a technical issue. 



  My car has failed the M.O.T test due to brakes as the tester has applied 100% 
lockup values to the brake test as he does not know the weight of the vehicle. 
I’ve gone over the model details but cannot find the relevant information so I 
was hoping someone in the club may know the weight of a 2+2 fitted with an XR2 
CVH engine. 



  Thanks in advance for any assistance.



  -Dom



  Sent from Mail for Windows



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Re: [Quantum Owners] E10 petrol.

[Jim Hearne]

I think this is the Ecoboost conversion.
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10220481790856847=gm.10159471108168114

Jim


From: mgaskin via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Wednesday, September 1, 2021 3:37 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] E10 petrol.

I’m told that the Super Unleaded fuel is still E5 so that’s an option if you 
can stomach the extra cost per litre.

 

But then I’ve been wondering if maybe my Q might prefer a younger engine rather 
than drink watered down E10 petrol. 

Having been very impressed with the one litre 125PS Ecoboost in my Focus, I’m 
thinking that might make a lot of sense. Anyone tried fitting one of those in a 
Q yet?

 

Best

 

Matthew

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Re: [Quantum Owners] E10 petrol.

[Jim Hearne]

Somebody is doing the Ecoboost conversion, i can’t remember if it was on here 
or on the facebook group (the open one, not the QOC members only one).

Jim


From: mgaskin via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Wednesday, September 1, 2021 3:37 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] E10 petrol.

I’m told that the Super Unleaded fuel is still E5 so that’s an option if you 
can stomach the extra cost per litre.

 

But then I’ve been wondering if maybe my Q might prefer a younger engine rather 
than drink watered down E10 petrol. 

Having been very impressed with the one litre 125PS Ecoboost in my Focus, I’m 
thinking that might make a lot of sense. Anyone tried fitting one of those in a 
Q yet?

 

Best

 

Matthew

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Re: [Quantum Owners] E10 petrol.

[Jim Hearne]

I looked there, just says all Fords post 1992 are ok (i guess that covers 
Zetecs) apart from a specific 1.8 Mondeo for some reason.
Jim
From: 'bobbycraigis' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Wednesday, September 1, 2021 11:45 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] E10 petrol.

I'm sure I saw info on this on one of the kit car Facebook groups and there was 
DVLA guidance on line about it. At work just now so don't have time to look.



Sent from my Galaxy


 Original message 
From: Andy Heaton  
Date: 01/09/2021 11:36 (GMT+00:00) 
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] E10 petrol. 

Not yet Jim. 

On Wed, 1 Sep 2021, 09:45 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

  Hi All, 
  Has anybody seen any information on the compatibility of the CVH and silver 
top Zetec engines with E10 petrol ?
  Thanks,
  Jim
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Re: [Quantum Owners] E10 petrol.

[Jim Hearne]

I’m not sure if it’s just the hoses.
I think it can also affect seals in fuel pump, fuel pressure regulators and 
injectors etc.
I seem to remember E5 petrol had a very bad effect on the seals in the old 
Jetronic metering units as used in the Escort XR3I and RS Turbo

I guess i should probably replace the flexible rubber pipe in the 2+2, that 
will still be whatever was around when i built it in the 90’s !
My local garage has already switched to E10

Jim



From: 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Wednesday, September 1, 2021 9:56 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] E10 petrol.

I've not extensively looked into this, but isn't the issue more related to the 
rubber hoses than anything else?  I thought the higher Ethanol content will 
cause older rubber hoses to break down faster, but newer rubber hoses should be 
OK.

This is from the RAC website, not sure what seals will be affected, but our 
metal fuel tanks might be prone to internal corrosion.

"If you put E10 fuel in an incompatible car it will still run, but seals, 
plastics and metals may be damaged over longer periods as a result of 
bioethanol's corrosive properties. It is a hygroscopic, which means it absorbs 
water from the atmosphere, leading to condensation in fuel tanks if the car 
remains unused for long periods of time."


Happy to be corrected if I am wrong.

Regards,
Steve


On 01/09/2021 09:45, Jim Hearne wrote:

  Hi All, 
  Has anybody seen any information on the compatibility of the CVH and silver 
top Zetec engines with E10 petrol ?
  Thanks,
  Jim
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[Quantum Owners] E10 petrol.

[Jim Hearne]

Hi All, 
Has anybody seen any information on the compatibility of the CVH and silver top 
Zetec engines with E10 petrol ?
Thanks,
Jim

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Front strut spring cups.

[Jim Hearne]

Those are the lower spring seats from the rear axle.

Jim

On 31/08/2021 20:15, Derek Clews wrote:

Hi Rick

Good luck with the rebuild.

Seems others have had the same issue.  Found this with a search:

Pattern new items,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373687674702?fits=Car+Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AFiesta=14044536971=item570185674e:g:tOgAAOSwLFJfdHus 



Have a look.

ATB

Derek



On 31 Aug 2021, at 18:37, Rick Finlan > wrote:


 Front Spring 
cup photo. XR2 1985. This one has been in rust remover for 5 days  
but it hasn't cleaned up. Any suggestions where I can get some better 
ones? thx

On Monday, August 30, 2021 at 10:23:15 AM UTC+1 Rick Finlan wrote:

Hi, I'm having difficulty finding new or good front spring top
cups.  Rebuilding my saloons front struts using new springs and
shocks, the top mount and plate are good ( galvanised I think)
but the spring cups below mount are both rusted through and very
thin after cleaning them up. Does anyone have or has recently
successfully found a source for these parts?  1985 XR2 I believe.
Thx 



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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 Roof Fixings

[Jim Hearne]

Yes, that's from the donor sun roof.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334000361689?hash=item4dc3f910d9:g:4~4AAOSwO1ZgnZ~N

I almost certainly have some, it just might take a while to find them.

Probably only available on Ebay attached to a sun roof

Finis code 6040472

Only seems to have been used on the MK3 Fiesta , Mk4 /5 / KA/ Mk3 Escort 
all different


Jim




On 30/08/2021 19:45, Pete Lee wrote:

IMG_0733.JPG

On Monday, 30 August 2021 at 14:03:21 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

A lot of the H4 roof parts come from the donor sunroof, but as
Steve says, we really need a picture.

Jim



On 30/08/2021 13:42, 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group wrote:

Pete,

A photo would help as I am unsure about which part you mean.

I suspect these will be something that Rob at Quantum Cars can
supply.

Regards,
Steve

On 30 August 2021 13:32:42 Pete Lee  wrote:


Hi All

Does anybody know where I can purchase two of the black plastic
things that the steel front H4 roof fixings are screwed onto,
please?  Mine have been over-tightened, and are pulling through
the fibreglass, causing a loose fitting roof panel!

Also, I have two spare H4 boot lids  - one dark blue untrimmed,
and one bronze coloured trimmed.  Both free to any body that
would like to collect them, from South Lincolnshire.

Regards

Pete
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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 Roof Fixings

[Jim Hearne]

A lot of the H4 roof parts come from the donor sunroof, but as Steve 
says, we really need a picture.


Jim


On 30/08/2021 13:42, 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group wrote:

Pete,

A photo would help as I am unsure about which part you mean.

I suspect these will be something that Rob at Quantum Cars can supply.

Regards,
Steve

On 30 August 2021 13:32:42 Pete Lee  wrote:


Hi All

Does anybody know where I can purchase two of the black plastic 
things that the steel front H4 roof fixings are screwed onto, 
please?  Mine have been over-tightened, and are pulling through the 
fibreglass, causing a loose fitting roof panel!


Also, I have two spare H4 boot lids  - one dark blue untrimmed, and 
one bronze coloured trimmed.  Both free to any body that would like 
to collect them, from South Lincolnshire.


Regards

Pete
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[Quantum Owners] "only 6 Quantum H4i models still on the road"

[Jim Hearne]

A quote from here : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224552870386

Really ?
I suspect he’s been caught out by the fact that there isn’t a consistent 
description on the V5’s for Quantum’s and so it’s hard to search the DVLA 
database.

Jim

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

[Jim Hearne]

I guess if part 18 was hitting the fibreglass then it could cause the damage 
you’ve got, i bet it made a right racket as well.
The fibreglass underneath doesn’t look terrible, i think if you repair the 
gelcoat it would probably be ok.
It would be a very tricky area to repair and make a repair that is stronger 
than it is now.

Was the rubber lip on the doughnut over the top of the bodywork ?, the top cap 
(21) looks close to the body on your previous picture.

BTW, don’t try fitting polyurethane top mount doughnuts on the saloon, i spent 
a few hours trying to get them to fit and gave up, just couldn’t get them over 
the thicker body lip.

Yes, the early Mk2 Fiestas use a plastic bush as a bearing on the top of the 
shock (similar to the Mk1 Fiesta) , the later ones used a proper thrust bearing 
(as the drawing).
Quantum use the plastic bush from the early Mk2 as an additional spacer on the 
later arrangement.

Jim


From: Rick Finlan 
Sent: Monday, August 2, 2021 2:35 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

OK so my worries about the cracks visible on the one strut top are still quite 
high.  I have attached photo of beneath the strut,  the fiberglass is quite 
white in parts and has what looks like a crack round the ring edge - what do 
you think?  
I am convinced the cause of this is as follows:
Having now removed the entire strut to replace shock,  clean and paint  I found 
that not only was the rubber donut badly fitted but that the original kit part 
11 ( see manual)  which is a nylon spacer to compensate for extra thickness of 
the fiberglass shell over original Ford metal body was not fitted on that side. 
  The spacer is for both types of fiesta mk2 strut even if it has the nylon 
insert .

Effectively the gap for the rubber top was narrower than mr Ford intended, and 
when the strut moved slightly in use transferred its movement to the fiberglass 
strut top not the rubber. 

I have attached the build manual section 6.9.5 and diagram about fitting part 
11 so nobody else leaves this out, I intend to fit new rubber donuts and a 
spacer on rebuild, if the strut integrity is ok .
Pays to read the manual (RTFM).

Rick
!


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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

[Jim Hearne]

Oh, meant to say , i would only really expect stress cracks on the 2+2 and 
Saloon as a result of accident damage.
The fibreglass on these is so thick it doesn’t seem to be an issue normally.
Can you see the rear of those areas for any indication of the fibreglass 
de-laminating ?

Jim


From: Rick Finlan 
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2021 3:50 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

Thanks Jim,  I had the same thought. 
I haven't removed the sill yet as its raining , but I have noticed the 
passenger side door has a larger gap at the top of the hoop than the drivers 
side, its dropped about 3mm by my reckoning,  car is probably already bending,  
my thought is that the passenger sill has already rusted through and car is 
stressing sill area , the sill doesn't ping when tapped like the drivers side 
and the fiberglass can be pushed in by about 10 mm with a prod just forward of 
B pillar as though nothing exists behind it. 

I'm awaiting delivery of a cheap borescope to take a look  inside sill box 
section before cutting, it may also help find some of the water leaks .  

Had the thought that if the sill removal affects structural integrity and car 
bends or is bent,  that a 2x3 box section steel chassis could be bolted in the 
floor/sill and a frame built off it to support A and B pillar and seat belt 
mount - all the gaps would let air round everything and I could see any issues 
in future, could cover with a removable trim panel and inspect every year  - 
the box section may help pull car square if bolted along floor from the bottom !
Its just an idea , a replacement plate identical to original steel plate is 
favourite, but probably not stainless as its more difficult to work with and 
may still rust when deprived of oxygen , zinc plating is good but that may not 
bond to the fiberglass either,  I have no experience of that other than 
horrible  white powder all over a zinc plated Ginetta  G26 chassis.

I wasn't expecting all this, car was a runner not long ago and was to be a 
simple lockdown project - but having spent a few weeks with it, the cars is 
really rough and needs respraying, windows out re-bonding, all suspension and 
mechanicals going over and retrimming as well,  wish I had spent more on a 
better one, but they dont come up that often. 
I have also noticed micro gel coat cracks in the near side spring turret, like 
its been flexing,  a previous owner had painted engine bay all black matt paint 
that was hiding them, it was flacking off so when cleaning off paint the cracks 
became apparent round the base of the turret and towards wing - any ideas about 
strengthening the turrets?
Rick


On Friday, July 30, 2021 at 11:44:33 AM UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

  I imagine it would be a good idea to take the sill members out with no engine 
in the car, or at least make sure it’s supported at both ends under the floor 
and under the engine so there is no weight from the engine pulling the front 
down.
  Otherwise you might end up with a Banana.

  Jim


  From: Andy Heaton 
  Sent: Friday, July 30, 2021 11:40 AM
  To: quantu...@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

  Eddie, Paul and I are putting the new sills into Paul's Q next weekend. 
  If you are at the classic by all means come and have a chat with me. 
  My no is 07970961044.
  There are a set sequence of procedures we have done. 

  On Thu, 29 Jul 2021, 17:11 Rick Finlan,  wrote:

Thanks for the information, I will seek those guys out at Stoneleigh. 
In the mean time I have taken some fibreglass off the bottom of the A 
pillar metal plate to see whats up, look at that corrosion.
will keep you posted with progress..


On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 3:39:09 PM UTC+1 Steve Kodz wrote:

  Rick,

  I know Andy Heaton, his son Paul and Eddie Ruskin have removed the metal 
sill from Paul's Saloon. Not sure if it has gone back in yet. I would expect 
Andy or Eddie will be on here soon with more information, but expect one of 
them at Stoneleigh.

  Regards,
  Stwve

  On 29 July 2021 14:06:11 Rick Finlan  wrote:

Hi, has anyone cut out the metal work in the sill and A pillar on a 
saloon. I want to keep Q for next 20 - 30 years if I can, but its already badly 
rusted in A pillar and has hollow sound on passenger sill where metal has 
dissolved : - So about to get handy with an angle grinder and remove what I 
think is the fibreglass holding in the inner sill and A pillar to see the 
extent of corrosion. I feel confident I can do it , or get help doing it -  but 
would firstly like to know if anyone has advice about this major surgery and 
what metalwork  would need prefabricating to return the structural integrity, 
any pitfalls?   
I  noticed a  link for the proboards forum , but alas my 3 applications 
are all still pending approval. I can attend Stoneleigh to discuss  - but 
unfortunately not in Q

Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

[Jim Hearne]

Unfortunately rusty sills on the saloon and 2+2 is a lot down to luck, how well 
the fibreglassing went when these areas were being done at the factory.
On both cars the sill to A pillar area is very complicated to completely seal 
against water coming in around the door hinge openings.
On the saloon the water is supposed to drain out via a hole in the bottom of 
the A pillar but it must have been almost impossible to completely seal off the 
end of the steel sill.

On the 2+2 the water is supposed to drain out via a hole in the bottom of the 
door opening but that is about 2” above the top of the sill member and and 
while it is a slightly easier area to seal it does sit there with the 2” of 
water in it which will find any gap there is down past the sill, or quite 
commonly, into the car.

On my saloon i used a large drill bit to drill directly up from the hole in the 
bottom of the sill until i could pass a brass tube up into the bottom of the A 
pillar area, this path is almost open, the drill just took out some small bits 
of fibreglass.
It comes up the outer side of the sill tube.
Then I bonded the bottom of the brass tube into the sill with Polyurethane 
adhesive and sealed around the top as best i could.
I then put in several very thick coats of rubber roofing compound all over the 
bottom of the A pillar area to fill in any remaining small gaps.
So now there should be no way the water can get down into the sill.

On the 2+2 i pulled off the side of the A pillar “pocket area” (it’s a bonded 
on fibreglass panel on the 2+2), filled the pocket area with expanding foam to 
just below the level of the drain hole into the door pillar.
Cut the foam to shape with a kitchen knife.
Then covered that on the top and side with fibreglass matting.
Then rebonded the side panel with Polyurethane sealant.

On Matthews 2+2 i did it a different way, we had a big tin of left over 
polyurethane resin at work, we jacked the car up at the back so there was slope 
towards the drain hole in the door pillar.
Then just filled the pocket area up to the drain hole level with the resin.
Probably added a Kg or 2 in weight but that wasn’t a problem with Matthews car !

Just think yourself lucky you’ve not got a H4, i really don’t know who thought 
fibreglassing the chassis though the body was a good idea.
Maybe if it was galvanised, it might have worked but not with painted steel.

Jim



From: Rick Finlan 
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2021 3:50 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

Thanks Jim,  I had the same thought. 
I haven't removed the sill yet as its raining , but I have noticed the 
passenger side door has a larger gap at the top of the hoop than the drivers 
side, its dropped about 3mm by my reckoning,  car is probably already bending,  
my thought is that the passenger sill has already rusted through and car is 
stressing sill area , the sill doesn't ping when tapped like the drivers side 
and the fiberglass can be pushed in by about 10 mm with a prod just forward of 
B pillar as though nothing exists behind it. 

I'm awaiting delivery of a cheap borescope to take a look  inside sill box 
section before cutting, it may also help find some of the water leaks .  

Had the thought that if the sill removal affects structural integrity and car 
bends or is bent,  that a 2x3 box section steel chassis could be bolted in the 
floor/sill and a frame built off it to support A and B pillar and seat belt 
mount - all the gaps would let air round everything and I could see any issues 
in future, could cover with a removable trim panel and inspect every year  - 
the box section may help pull car square if bolted along floor from the bottom !
Its just an idea , a replacement plate identical to original steel plate is 
favourite, but probably not stainless as its more difficult to work with and 
may still rust when deprived of oxygen , zinc plating is good but that may not 
bond to the fiberglass either,  I have no experience of that other than 
horrible  white powder all over a zinc plated Ginetta  G26 chassis.

I wasn't expecting all this, car was a runner not long ago and was to be a 
simple lockdown project - but having spent a few weeks with it, the cars is 
really rough and needs respraying, windows out re-bonding, all suspension and 
mechanicals going over and retrimming as well,  wish I had spent more on a 
better one, but they dont come up that often. 
I have also noticed micro gel coat cracks in the near side spring turret, like 
its been flexing,  a previous owner had painted engine bay all black matt paint 
that was hiding them, it was flacking off so when cleaning off paint the cracks 
became apparent round the base of the turret and towards wing - any ideas about 
strengthening the turrets?
Rick


On Friday, July 30, 2021 at 11:44:33 AM UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

  I imagine it would be a good idea to take the sill members out with no engine 
in the car, or at least make

Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

[Jim Hearne]

I imagine it would be a good idea to take the sill members out with no engine 
in the car, or at least make sure it’s supported at both ends under the floor 
and under the engine so there is no weight from the engine pulling the front 
down.
Otherwise you might end up with a Banana.

Jim


From: Andy Heaton 
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2021 11:40 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

Eddie, Paul and I are putting the new sills into Paul's Q next weekend. 
If you are at the classic by all means come and have a chat with me. 
My no is 07970961044.
There are a set sequence of procedures we have done. 

On Thu, 29 Jul 2021, 17:11 Rick Finlan,  wrote:

  Thanks for the information, I will seek those guys out at Stoneleigh. 
  In the mean time I have taken some fibreglass off the bottom of the A pillar 
metal plate to see whats up, look at that corrosion.
  will keep you posted with progress..


  On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 3:39:09 PM UTC+1 Steve Kodz wrote:

Rick,

I know Andy Heaton, his son Paul and Eddie Ruskin have removed the metal 
sill from Paul's Saloon. Not sure if it has gone back in yet. I would expect 
Andy or Eddie will be on here soon with more information, but expect one of 
them at Stoneleigh.

Regards,
Stwve

On 29 July 2021 14:06:11 Rick Finlan  wrote:

  Hi, has anyone cut out the metal work in the sill and A pillar on a 
saloon. I want to keep Q for next 20 - 30 years if I can, but its already badly 
rusted in A pillar and has hollow sound on passenger sill where metal has 
dissolved : - So about to get handy with an angle grinder and remove what I 
think is the fibreglass holding in the inner sill and A pillar to see the 
extent of corrosion. I feel confident I can do it , or get help doing it -  but 
would firstly like to know if anyone has advice about this major surgery and 
what metalwork  would need prefabricating to return the structural integrity, 
any pitfalls?   
  I  noticed a  link for the proboards forum , but alas my 3 applications 
are all still pending approval. I can attend Stoneleigh to discuss  - but 
unfortunately not in Q until its structurally right again.. Rick
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Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
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or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

[Jim Hearne]

Interesting, i’m sure the plate on the A pillar with the 2 holes in it is 
Stainless on my saloon.

Also, can you work out what the upper 2 bolts are for, on mine they seem to do 
nothing and i took them out.

Will be interesting to see what the sill itself looks like, it’s not as bad as 
i was expecting.

Post some more pictures when you get there.

Jim

From: Rick Finlan 
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2021 4:38 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon metal structure replacement

Thanks for the information, I will seek those guys out at Stoneleigh. 
In the mean time I have taken some fibreglass off the bottom of the A pillar 
metal plate to see whats up, look at that corrosion.
will keep you posted with progress..


On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 3:39:09 PM UTC+1 Steve Kodz wrote:

  Rick,

  I know Andy Heaton, his son Paul and Eddie Ruskin have removed the metal sill 
from Paul's Saloon. Not sure if it has gone back in yet. I would expect Andy or 
Eddie will be on here soon with more information, but expect one of them at 
Stoneleigh.

  Regards,
  Stwve

  On 29 July 2021 14:06:11 Rick Finlan  wrote:

Hi, has anyone cut out the metal work in the sill and A pillar on a saloon. 
I want to keep Q for next 20 - 30 years if I can, but its already badly rusted 
in A pillar and has hollow sound on passenger sill where metal has dissolved : 
- So about to get handy with an angle grinder and remove what I think is the 
fibreglass holding in the inner sill and A pillar to see the extent of 
corrosion. I feel confident I can do it , or get help doing it -  but would 
firstly like to know if anyone has advice about this major surgery and what 
metalwork  would need prefabricating to return the structural integrity, any 
pitfalls?   
I  noticed a  link for the proboards forum , but alas my 3 applications are 
all still pending approval. I can attend Stoneleigh to discuss  - but 
unfortunately not in Q until its structurally right again.. Rick
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Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person 
or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] "CANBUS" LED bulbs in older cars.

[Jim Hearne]

Indeed, the problem is that that resistor is dissipating a lot of heat.

In a real bulb that heat is mostly dissipated though the glass and into the air 
around the bulb with very little conducted back into the connector via the thin 
wires inside the bulb.
A “CANBUS” LED bulb on the other hand has this extra resistor (or more than 1) 
mounted on a PCB, often right next to the connector and with thick copper 
tracks conducting heat back into the connector.

I’ve seen bulb holders overheated far more with LED bulbs than normal bulbs.

This extra resistor is only fitted to “CANBUS” compatible LED bulbs, just to 
make the LED bulb take extra current to fool the bulb failure monitoring system 
in some cars that otherwise would think the bulb has failed.

Now, the bulb monitoring system has absolutely nothing to do with CANBUS, there 
were bulb monitoring systems long before CANBUS, i’m pretty sure my Sierra had 
it.
CANBUS is a digital communications bus system that links different ECU’s in the 
car.
You can have a CANBUS system without bulb monitoring and bulb monitoring 
without CANBUS
I don’t know how LED bulbs with the extra resistor came to be called “CANBUS” 
compatible , probably some Chinese misunderstanding.
Even if you car does have bulb failure monitoring it’s only going to be on the 
exterior lighting, not the interior light or dash illumination.

So, for using CANBUS LED’s in a older car (or indeed any car that doesn’t have 
bulb failure monitoring) i always remove the extra resistors.
They are usually the largest ones and , right next to the connector and 
connected directly to it, there will be smaller resistors for limiting the 
current to the actual LED’s themselves.

As an example i just bought some T5 bulbs with 12 LEDS on them in total.
When i measure the current on a 12Volt supply they take 0.173 amps which using 
ohms law is 2 watts
Once i remove the 2 x 24 ohm resistors that are on there just to fool the bulb 
out systems, the current is only 0.073 amps, only 0.876 watts
The bulb will work exactly the same in a car without bulb monitoring, it just 
doesn’t waste a lot of energy as heat which will damage the connectors and also 
the LED’s themselves.

The situation is even worse on larger bulbs where the extra resistors have to 
draw enough current to fool the bulb failure system into thinking that a 21 
watt bulb is still there.

I appreciate not everybody is good with a soldering iron but you just need to 
heat up one end of the resistor with a blob of solder, once it melts move to 
the other end of the resistor, alternate a few times so both ends are molten at 
the same time and then the resistor should slide off.
There are quite often one on each side of the PCB. 
Or, you can carefully break up the resistors with a pair of wire cutters.

In the attached picture the resistors you want to remove are labelled 221  
(interestingly the picture from Amazon shows them as 221 = 22 ohms whereas the 
ones i received are 241 = 24 ohms)
One on each side.

If you have any bulbs and you aren’t sure which resistors are which , send me a 
picture.

Your bulb holders will thank you.

Rant over.

Jim





From: Ian Harrison 
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 10:58 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] "CANBUS" LED bulbs in older cars.

>From what I’ve seen, the only thing that makes them CANBUS compatible is a 
>built in resistor fooling the computer into thinking it has a working filament 
>bulb.

Ian

On Thu, 8 Jul 2021 at 10:30, Jim Hearne  wrote:

  Has anybody seen any articles on why you shouldn’t use “CANBUS” compatible 
LED bulbs in older cars.
  Or, at least not without modifying them first.

  If not i may write one.

  Jim



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[Quantum Owners] "CANBUS" LED bulbs in older cars.

[Jim Hearne]

Has anybody seen any articles on why you shouldn’t use “CANBUS” compatible LED 
bulbs in older cars.
Or, at least not without modifying them first.

If not i may write one.

Jim


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Re: [Quantum Owners] Rear Trailing Arms

[Jim Hearne]

Oh, and tell your mechanic to be careful, there are a lot of sharp ends of 
fibreglass mating down there, or at least there were on mine.

Jim


From: Jim Hearne 
Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2021 11:51 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Rear Trailing Arms

Hi James,
Yes, it’s down through the speaker holes.
It’s tight down there, it’s right next to the chassis tube and it’s a nut and 
washer, don’t drop them !

It was a shame they couldn’t put a captive nut in there.

Jim


From: 'Jamest142' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2021 11:47 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Rear Trailing Arms

Hi folks 

I hope you are all keeping safe.

Q2-002 has failed her MOT on rear trailing arms, so needs the new ones to be 
fitted.  Can anyone advise how to get to the front mounting points please?  The 
only way I can think is through the speaker holes on the left / right of the 
rear seat, or is there an access panel under the carpet somewhere?

The car is at my mechanics at the moment.

Many thanks as always.

Best regards

James T
Q2-002
www.bostin.photography
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Rear Trailing Arms

[Jim Hearne]

Hi James,
Yes, it’s down through the speaker holes.
It’s tight down there, it’s right next to the chassis tube and it’s a nut and 
washer, don’t drop them !

It was a shame they couldn’t put a captive nut in there.

Jim


From: 'Jamest142' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2021 11:47 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Rear Trailing Arms

Hi folks 

I hope you are all keeping safe.

Q2-002 has failed her MOT on rear trailing arms, so needs the new ones to be 
fitted.  Can anyone advise how to get to the front mounting points please?  The 
only way I can think is through the speaker holes on the left / right of the 
rear seat, or is there an access panel under the carpet somewhere?

The car is at my mechanics at the moment.

Many thanks as always.

Best regards

James T
Q2-002
www.bostin.photography
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Quantum saloon A700TMB

[Jim Hearne]

Looks like it last passed an MOT in 2019
Amazingly it did 68k miles between MOT in 2014 and one in 2016, i suspect a 
speedo change.

Jim


From: Andy Heaton 
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2021 12:45 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Quantum saloon A700TMB

Does anybody know the whereabouts of this vehicle please. 樂
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Photo Request

[Jim Hearne]

I think he's looking for 1 photo that shows all of Quantum models.

Jim


On 11/06/2021 17:35, 'janhaines30' via Quantum Owners Group wrote:

Hi Steve

What sort of photos are u looking for

Jan



Sent from my Galaxy


 Original message 
From: 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group 


Date: 11/06/2021 15:56 (GMT+00:00)
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Photo Request

Does anyone have a good quality, high resolution photograph of each
Quantum model in a single photo? As part of the Silverstone Classic
package we get to submit a single photo that will be included with a
short club bio. If anyone has a photo they believe would be suitable
please forward to me ASAP as I have less than 1 week to submit.

Regards,
Steve

--
h4-turbo.co.uk
quantumowners.co.uk

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Fiesta mk2 Brake master cylinder reservoir

[Jim Hearne]

Mk1 is different again.
That one is early Mk2
It was a change in 1986 that changed the Mk2 Fiesta master cylinder, servo etc.

Pre 1986 the CVH engine had a short distributor with a ECU controlling the 
vacuum and speed advance.

This was to clear the early type brake master cylinder, the same reason the 
reservoir has a step in the side, to clear the plug leads.
For the OHV engines there were no issues.

In 1986 they changed the master cylinder to the short steel type which meant 
they could switch to a standard cheaper normal distributor with mechanical and 
vacuum advance.

Jim



From: 'chris.p...@btinternet.com' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Monday, June 7, 2021 11:43 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Fiesta mk2 Brake master cylinder reservoir

That’s the early type used on MK1 Fiesta (I think) and MK2 Fiesta up to 1.3 
engine.

1.4 and 1.6 XR2 had the Girling short master cylinder with a different 
reservoir, servo and brackets. They are NOT interchangeable.

Girling master cylinders are a pain in the butt to get new.

Chris G

From: Derek Clews 
Sent: Monday, June 7, 2021 11:17 AM
To: Quantum Owners Forum 
Cc: Derek Clews 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Fiesta mk2 Brake master cylinder reservoir

Hi Russ 

This one looks exactly the same as our Quantums, all MK2 XR 2 base.  

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254977562455?hash=item3b5dd8d757:g:dXoAAOSwzi5gnSjY

ATB

Derek




  On 7 Jun 2021, at 08:19, flob...@gmail.com  wrote:

  Thanks for the suggestion but I've tried ebay and their are plenty of master 
cylinders of right type but no reservoirs, the m/cylinders with attached 
reservoirs are the wrong type. 

  Russ


  On Sunday, June 6, 2021 at 8:27:21 PM UTC+1 Derek Clews wrote:

Hi Russ

You have to be careful to get the right one but eBay seems to have some 
bits.  Including a complete unit with eveything attached: 


https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=fiesta+Mk2+brake+master+cylinder&_sacat=0

ATB

Derek



  On 6 Jun 2021, at 12:12, flob...@gmail.com  wrote:



  Does anyone know where i can get a brake master cylinder reservoir ? New 
or second hand i don't mind which. I think the mk1 & 2 are the same and 
possibly the mk3 can anyone confirm that?

  Russ


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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation

[Jim Hearne]

Be advised that the makers of Waxoil do not recommend it comes in 
contact with fibreglass.


I must have a peek inside the sills on my saloon with my borescope 
camera, just like the one you link to in fact.


Jim


On 27/03/2021 08:20, 'Bill Allison' via Quantum Owners Group wrote:

Matthew

Brown stain only at the front doesn't sound too threatening, much more 
important from a safety point of view is the area just forward of the 
'B' pillar, where the seat belt attaches. Perhaps it will be 
sufficient in your case, to prevent further deterioration, to block 
the drain hole below the bottom of the 'A' pillar and temporarily fill 
the bottom with, say, thinned waxoyl. Capillary action should get it 
to the stained area. Also, coat inside the steel the full length of 
the sill with waxoyl (thinned by warming) using the pump and long 
tubes available for this sort of task. You'll need to drill a hole, 
say 20mm, into the sill as the two holes for the seat belt mount are 
too small.


John & Matthew

Brown staining on the fibreglass on the inside below the doors is one 
sign but a look inside is also necessary because if the member is 
rotting from the inside you won't see any staining until it has 
perforated. A borescope will reveal all 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inspection-Depstech-Waterproof-Borescope-Smartphone-Black/dp/B01NBFTAHE/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1=Borescope+Inspection+Camera=1616832893=8-5 



Best regards
Bill

Bill Allison
Borders Group of Advanced Motorists
National Observer (Cars)
07702 739474
01750 22550 (before 21:00 please)
www.bgam.org.uk  and www.bgam.org.uk/ydi 


www.iamroadsmart.com 
www.facebook.com/BordersAdvancedMotorists 





The contents of this message, and any attachments, may include 
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RoadSmart is a trademark. Charity number: 249002 (England and Wales) 
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Welwyn Garden City AL7 3BT.




On Friday, 26 March 2021, 15:34:26 GMT, mgaskin via Quantum Owners 
Group  wrote:




>Finally, check that no water has entered the sills. Poor fibreglass 
lay-up by QSC at the front of the sill in front of the 'A' pillar led 
to me having to
>replace the metal sill - it had rotted away to nothing near the seat 
belt attachment!
>(https://quantumforum.proboards.com/thread/522/quantum-saloon-full-rebuild?page=2 
)


This sounds like a possible (and alarming) explanation for the brown 
patch under the gelcoat on my 2+2 below the door hinges in the sill. 
I've asked for a logon for the proboards to look at your link.


Matthew


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Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

[Jim Hearne]

Detonation will kill a turbo engine really quickly.
And running standard compression it’s going to detonate at anything above a 
tiny level of boost.
What boost were you running ?
I assume it has a aftermarket ecu ?, does it have a knock sensor on it ?

Not really heard of sleeving being used on a cast iron block but i guess it’s 
possible.
The joint between the sleeve and the block may reduce it’s heat transfer 
ability which is of course just what you don’t want.

Jim




From: Nigel Plant 
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 5:05 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

Silvertop oversize pistons are readily available. 
I think mine failed due to about 20 track days approx 10 with turbo and too 
much fuel at start up. I also ran with standard compression and there was 
significant evidence of pre detonation particularly on the #3 piston which 
failed. However I dont think it was significant enough to be the cause. I dont 
yet have the piston, so haven't inspected it in detail.
I do have a second engine but that has worn bores. One option is to use that 
but with the block sleeved so I can reuse those pistons. Does anyone have 
experience of sleeving, I dont, so am hesitant to go that route.

On Fri, 26 Mar 2021, 16:37 list...@liberator-systems.co.uk, 
 wrote:

  I was planning to drop a 2.0l blacktop and possibly turbo into my saloon. 
This piston availablity issue is making me think twice. Is it the same problem 
for the old silvertop? How many manufacturers are there for standard type 
pistons? Wondering how the engine reconditioning businesses source their 
pistons. 

  John

  On Thursday, 25 March 2021 at 18:36:23 UTC nige...@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks Jim, will respond to your other later, some interesting points! 
Oversize pistons for blacktop are quoted for on plenty of web sites, but are 
never available. Supplier calls the manufacturer and they all come back with 
same story. 
Regards

On Thu, 25 Mar 2021, 16:23 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

  As you say, i don’t think Ford sells pistons for a Black top Zetec as a 
spare, they want you to replace the whole bottom end.
  The Zetec SE is the same.

  Jim


  From: susanandmartin 
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 3:28 PM
  To: quantu...@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

  Not that it helps with your quest, but (hopefully) of interest. 

  When I was working at Ford we had an engine being tested for cold start 
durability at a University. As proof (if it was ever needed) that starting an 
engine repeatedly from cold with a fuel-enriched intake mixture would wreck an 
engine, there was a need for new pistons after several months and x000’s of 
start procedures. When trying to source new pistons, however, it was found they 
were not listed as a spare and could only be bought with an engine block. As 
this wouldn’t help our engine block durability testing, great discussions 
ensued taking several hours and it was agreed some pistons could be supplied 
direct from the assembly line (maybe one car was released without pistons? ). 
This is a good example of how Ford goes to great lengths with their testing 
(and probably other manufacturers do as well).

  Martin Scott



  Sent from Mail for Windows 10



  From: Nigel Plant
  Sent: 25 March 2021 12:15
  To: Quantum Owners Group
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons



  Probably one that's right up Jim's street.  Does anyone have the Ford 
specification for 2L Zetec blacktop pistons.  Need gudgeon pin diameter, 
compression height essentially all the key dimensions.  I have broken a piston 
on  my Xtreme turbo such that it needs reboring and cannot get any standard but 
oversize pistons.  Am also told that Nural and Mahle have no production plans 
to manufacture any.  I can get forged pistons and rods, which would be better 
performance wise but didn't want to drop compression to 8:1 or fork out £1200.  
9:1 is my ideal for the power I want.  I have found a custom piston manufacture 
for forged pistons alone, but they require a piston (no problem) and the key 
specs.



  For information, I have learnt one interesting point that people may find 
useful.  Although the silvertop and black top have different length conrods 
(ctr to ctr) and different compression heights.  The combined total of conrod 
length and compression height for the silvertop and blacktop are the same, 
meaning a set of silvertop conrods and pistons can be used to replace the 
blacktop ones.



  Thanks for any help on the specs.



  Nigel Plant

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Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

[Jim Hearne]

Actually, i think only the good ones used the pressure washer before the black 
paint.

Jim


From: Jim Hearne 
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 4:45 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

I remember all a lot of engine re-conditioners needed was a pressure washer and 
a can of black spray paint...
Fixes all problems...

Does anybody get an engine reconditioned nowadays ?,  i think most normal cars 
would be scrapped if they needed a engine rebuild, either that or another s/h 
engine  fitted.

Jim


From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 4:29 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

I was planning to drop a 2.0l blacktop and possibly turbo into my saloon. This 
piston availablity issue is making me think twice. Is it the same problem for 
the old silvertop? How many manufacturers are there for standard type pistons? 
Wondering how the engine reconditioning businesses source their pistons. 

John

On Thursday, 25 March 2021 at 18:36:23 UTC nige...@gmail.com wrote:

  Thanks Jim, will respond to your other later, some interesting points! 
Oversize pistons for blacktop are quoted for on plenty of web sites, but are 
never available. Supplier calls the manufacturer and they all come back with 
same story. 
  Regards

  On Thu, 25 Mar 2021, 16:23 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

As you say, i don’t think Ford sells pistons for a Black top Zetec as a 
spare, they want you to replace the whole bottom end.
The Zetec SE is the same.

Jim


From: susanandmartin 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 3:28 PM
To: quantu...@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

Not that it helps with your quest, but (hopefully) of interest. 

When I was working at Ford we had an engine being tested for cold start 
durability at a University. As proof (if it was ever needed) that starting an 
engine repeatedly from cold with a fuel-enriched intake mixture would wreck an 
engine, there was a need for new pistons after several months and x000’s of 
start procedures. When trying to source new pistons, however, it was found they 
were not listed as a spare and could only be bought with an engine block. As 
this wouldn’t help our engine block durability testing, great discussions 
ensued taking several hours and it was agreed some pistons could be supplied 
direct from the assembly line (maybe one car was released without pistons? ). 
This is a good example of how Ford goes to great lengths with their testing 
(and probably other manufacturers do as well).

Martin Scott



Sent from Mail for Windows 10



From: Nigel Plant
Sent: 25 March 2021 12:15
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons



Probably one that's right up Jim's street.  Does anyone have the Ford 
specification for 2L Zetec blacktop pistons.  Need gudgeon pin diameter, 
compression height essentially all the key dimensions.  I have broken a piston 
on  my Xtreme turbo such that it needs reboring and cannot get any standard but 
oversize pistons.  Am also told that Nural and Mahle have no production plans 
to manufacture any.  I can get forged pistons and rods, which would be better 
performance wise but didn't want to drop compression to 8:1 or fork out £1200.  
9:1 is my ideal for the power I want.  I have found a custom piston manufacture 
for forged pistons alone, but they require a piston (no problem) and the key 
specs.



For information, I have learnt one interesting point that people may find 
useful.  Although the silvertop and black top have different length conrods 
(ctr to ctr) and different compression heights.  The combined total of conrod 
length and compression height for the silvertop and blacktop are the same, 
meaning a set of silvertop conrods and pistons can be used to replace the 
blacktop ones.



Thanks for any help on the specs.



Nigel Plant

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Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
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or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

[Jim Hearne]

I remember all a lot of engine re-conditioners needed was a pressure washer and 
a can of black spray paint...
Fixes all problems...

Does anybody get an engine reconditioned nowadays ?,  i think most normal cars 
would be scrapped if they needed a engine rebuild, either that or another s/h 
engine  fitted.

Jim


From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 4:29 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

I was planning to drop a 2.0l blacktop and possibly turbo into my saloon. This 
piston availablity issue is making me think twice. Is it the same problem for 
the old silvertop? How many manufacturers are there for standard type pistons? 
Wondering how the engine reconditioning businesses source their pistons. 

John

On Thursday, 25 March 2021 at 18:36:23 UTC nige...@gmail.com wrote:

  Thanks Jim, will respond to your other later, some interesting points! 
Oversize pistons for blacktop are quoted for on plenty of web sites, but are 
never available. Supplier calls the manufacturer and they all come back with 
same story. 
  Regards

  On Thu, 25 Mar 2021, 16:23 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

As you say, i don’t think Ford sells pistons for a Black top Zetec as a 
spare, they want you to replace the whole bottom end.
The Zetec SE is the same.

Jim


From: susanandmartin 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 3:28 PM
To: quantu...@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

Not that it helps with your quest, but (hopefully) of interest. 

When I was working at Ford we had an engine being tested for cold start 
durability at a University. As proof (if it was ever needed) that starting an 
engine repeatedly from cold with a fuel-enriched intake mixture would wreck an 
engine, there was a need for new pistons after several months and x000’s of 
start procedures. When trying to source new pistons, however, it was found they 
were not listed as a spare and could only be bought with an engine block. As 
this wouldn’t help our engine block durability testing, great discussions 
ensued taking several hours and it was agreed some pistons could be supplied 
direct from the assembly line (maybe one car was released without pistons? ). 
This is a good example of how Ford goes to great lengths with their testing 
(and probably other manufacturers do as well).

Martin Scott



Sent from Mail for Windows 10



From: Nigel Plant
Sent: 25 March 2021 12:15
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons



Probably one that's right up Jim's street.  Does anyone have the Ford 
specification for 2L Zetec blacktop pistons.  Need gudgeon pin diameter, 
compression height essentially all the key dimensions.  I have broken a piston 
on  my Xtreme turbo such that it needs reboring and cannot get any standard but 
oversize pistons.  Am also told that Nural and Mahle have no production plans 
to manufacture any.  I can get forged pistons and rods, which would be better 
performance wise but didn't want to drop compression to 8:1 or fork out £1200.  
9:1 is my ideal for the power I want.  I have found a custom piston manufacture 
for forged pistons alone, but they require a piston (no problem) and the key 
specs.



For information, I have learnt one interesting point that people may find 
useful.  Although the silvertop and black top have different length conrods 
(ctr to ctr) and different compression heights.  The combined total of conrod 
length and compression height for the silvertop and blacktop are the same, 
meaning a set of silvertop conrods and pistons can be used to replace the 
blacktop ones.



Thanks for any help on the specs.



Nigel Plant

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
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Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person 
or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation

[Jim Hearne]

It is an issue on the 2+2 as well as the saloon as they have a very similar 
joint between the fibreglass and the body around the bottom of the A pillar.

This area is very tricky to access.

On the saloon they tried to leave a passage down between the sill and the 
body with a drain hole at the bottom.
On the 2+2 the drain hole went out into the door shut so in theory the water 
doesn't go near the sill


The issue on the 2+2 is the drain hole is quite a distance above the level 
of the bottom of the "pocket" that fills with water via the door hinge 
holes.
So if the fibreglassing between the sill and the body has any leaks at all 
the water gets down around the sill tube.


On my 2+2 and Matthews i filled the pocket area up to the level of the drain 
hole, on mine with foam and fibreglass over the top, on Matthews with 
polyurethane resin left over from work.


On my saloon i drilled up the existing drain passage with a large drill to 
create a round hole, then i bonded a brass tube of a suitable height into 
the drain hole.
The top end of the tube was sealed around with plasticine and then several 
coats of rubber compound. So the water can only go down the tube.


Jim


-Original Message- 
From: mgaskin via Quantum Owners Group

Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 3:34 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation


Finally, check that no water has entered the sills. Poor fibreglass lay-up 
by QSC at the front of the sill in front of the 'A' pillar led to me having 
to
replace the metal sill - it had rotted away to nothing near the seat belt 
attachment!

(https://quantumforum.proboards.com/thread/522/quantum-saloon-full-rebuild?page=2)


This sounds like a possible (and alarming) explanation for the brown patch 
under the gelcoat on my 2+2 below the door hinges in the sill. I've asked 
for a logon for the proboards to look at your link.


Matthew


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Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
within this or related message(s).
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the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the 
above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to 
liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the 
instructions contained within this or related message(s).
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation

[Jim Hearne]

Re: Heated windscreen - I always liked these in my Mondeos. Who supplies these? 
Were they a Ford factory option for Fiesta Mk2? If my screen has to come out 
(when I start chasing leaks) I would consider this if cost is not too bad.

Obviously any water in the cabin is going to cause condesation problems so I 
will be trying to chase down any possible water entry points as I rebuild. One 
obvious area looks like the front window rubbers - I have at least a 5mm gap 
bewteen glass and rubber lip. 

John
   




On Monday, 22 March 2021 at 22:40:59 UTC dar...@siepka.me.uk wrote:

  I have a BMW 180A alternator fitted for just such a reason, that and the EPAS 
which also pulls loads of power too :-). 
  Not sure whether that alternator will fit on a cvh or zetec mind you

  As fitted to N47 on e6x ,8x and 9x BMW and mini, cheaper than a fiesta unit !

  Darren

  On Mon, 22 Mar 2021, 18:57 Derek Clews,  wrote:

That is huge on a standard alternator!  Must take an hour of running to 
recharge the battery after a cold morning start?   

Derek





  On 22 Mar 2021, at 17:52, Darren Siepka  wrote:

  Ah no , this is an auxiliary heater matrix, runs on 12v from the car! 
Pulls like 80a or so! 
  See piccys.

  Darren

  On Mon, 22 Mar 2021, 13:37 Derek Clews,  wrote:

On my 2+2 rebuild I am going to fit a sump heater to use 240V to 
preheat the oil in the engine to reduce wear and provide quicker heat for short 
journeys.  At present I have to drive around 5 miles before the car is up to 
temperature.   

The energy required to heat water like you are doing using 12 V is a 
great deal.  How does that even work?  Or is it 240V as well?  Reading it again 
you don't say.  240V only works when you are starting from home, not the works 
car park.   

On a really cold day start I have been known to runout a cord and mains 
fan heater to warm up the car before I go!  

Derek. 



  On 22 Mar 2021, at 13:16, Darren Siepka  wrote:

  The electric elements as fitted to recent diesel OEM vehicles work 
amazingly! 
  They do draw lots of leccy so beware.

  I have put one in supplement to the water radiator in my current 2+2 
rebuild to enable near instant hot air upon startup , they reach temp in about 
60seconds!
  I am using one from a focus/Volvo ( same parts) very simple to 
operate, a simple pwm signal sets the output, but there are other versions like 
the ones on Mk7 8 fiesta that use a multi wire approach to level setting.

  Darren

  On Mon, 22 Mar 2021, 11:35 Derek Clews,  wrote:

I have taken the low tech approach and just crack the windows open 
as necessary.  Beginning to think the electric screen is the right idea.  Pity 
they are only in clear colour as all my Q’s are light green glass.  Put have 
wondered about the latest generation of electric blower demisters.  Seems that 
are good enough for Caterham to get approved with only them fitted.   

Derek



  On 22 Mar 2021, at 10:43, kynastonp .  wrote:

  When I built my saloon people were complaining about misting of 
the side and rear windows , the factory suggested fitting the astramax vent in 
the rear of the door opening . I also fitted vents under the rear window to 
allow air through the parcel shelf and more vents from the sides of the boot 
into the inner wing . Never had a problem after that . The vents some people 
have fitted in the rear wings are from a Nissan bluebird from 1986 onwards.


  Get Outlook for Android



--

  From: quantu...@googlegroups.com  on 
behalf of Darren Siepka 
  Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 10:17:48 AM
  To: quantu...@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation 

  Further to what Jim was saying about air pressure,  
  I was told that the venting assisted in making sufficient air 
movement in the cabin to let the blower pull in air more easily whilst not 
causing a negative differential to the outside which would have encouraged 
leaks..
  I have the grey Slat type vents in my saloon door post.

  The best fix for windscreen misting would be to put an electric 
heated screen in , which are a straight fit :-)


  On Mon, 22 Mar 2021, 10:05 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

My understand of the issue with the ventilation in the saloon 
was more misting of the rear side windows and rear screen.
Hence the fitting of the vents in the B pillars (mine has 
those) or in the rear quarters.
I don’t remember having any real issues on my saloon but it 
does also have the splash guards in front of the front wheel arches.

As you say, the only real exit from a unmodified saloon is via 
the door hinge openings.

Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

[Jim Hearne]

As you say, i don’t think Ford sells pistons for a Black top Zetec as a spare, 
they want you to replace the whole bottom end.
The Zetec SE is the same.

Jim


From: susanandmartin 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 3:28 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

Not that it helps with your quest, but (hopefully) of interest. 

When I was working at Ford we had an engine being tested for cold start 
durability at a University. As proof (if it was ever needed) that starting an 
engine repeatedly from cold with a fuel-enriched intake mixture would wreck an 
engine, there was a need for new pistons after several months and x000’s of 
start procedures. When trying to source new pistons, however, it was found they 
were not listed as a spare and could only be bought with an engine block. As 
this wouldn’t help our engine block durability testing, great discussions 
ensued taking several hours and it was agreed some pistons could be supplied 
direct from the assembly line (maybe one car was released without pistons? ). 
This is a good example of how Ford goes to great lengths with their testing 
(and probably other manufacturers do as well).

Martin Scott

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Nigel Plant
Sent: 25 March 2021 12:15
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

 

Probably one that's right up Jim's street.  Does anyone have the Ford 
specification for 2L Zetec blacktop pistons.  Need gudgeon pin diameter, 
compression height essentially all the key dimensions.  I have broken a piston 
on  my Xtreme turbo such that it needs reboring and cannot get any standard but 
oversize pistons.  Am also told that Nural and Mahle have no production plans 
to manufacture any.  I can get forged pistons and rods, which would be better 
performance wise but didn't want to drop compression to 8:1 or fork out £1200.  
9:1 is my ideal for the power I want.  I have found a custom piston manufacture 
for forged pistons alone, but they require a piston (no problem) and the key 
specs.

 

For information, I have learnt one interesting point that people may find 
useful.  Although the silvertop and black top have different length conrods 
(ctr to ctr) and different compression heights.  The combined total of conrod 
length and compression height for the silvertop and blacktop are the same, 
meaning a set of silvertop conrods and pistons can be used to replace the 
blacktop ones.

 

Thanks for any help on the specs.

 

Nigel Plant

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basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners 
Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

[Jim Hearne]

Sorry Nigel, 
My Zetec knowledge didn’t get as far as the black top.

Are the pistons you are using at the moment standard black top ?, if so it 
might be easiest (and cheapest) to pick up a low mileage bottom end and fit 
that.
Do you know why the piston failed ?
My ZVH is running skimmed (0.5mm i think it was) standard silver top pistons 
and Ex Mathews 2.0 Zetec turbo is running standard pistons with a decompression 
plate and has lasted way longer than it did when we built a bottom end with 
forged pistons and rods.
One thing you do need to do if using NA pistons in a turbo is check the ring 
gaps and make sure they are big enough, otherwise since a turbo runs hotter, 
they can expand until there is no gap left and then jam in the bore.

I know some forged pistons come with the crown unmachined and you machine it 
down to give you the compression you desire.
We never really worked out what happened to Mathews engine with forged pistons  
(made by Probe Industries in the states) .
The pistons picked up in the bores and scored them, not sure if the bores were 
undersize, the pistons were oversize or it just suffered from oil starvation.
I’ve still got the pistons, rods and block, one day i will measure it all up 
and try and figure it out.

Jim



From: Nigel Plant 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 12:15 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

Probably one that's right up Jim's street.  Does anyone have the Ford 
specification for 2L Zetec blacktop pistons.  Need gudgeon pin diameter, 
compression height essentially all the key dimensions.  I have broken a piston 
on  my Xtreme turbo such that it needs reboring and cannot get any standard but 
oversize pistons.  Am also told that Nural and Mahle have no production plans 
to manufacture any.  I can get forged pistons and rods, which would be better 
performance wise but didn't want to drop compression to 8:1 or fork out £1200.  
9:1 is my ideal for the power I want.  I have found a custom piston manufacture 
for forged pistons alone, but they require a piston (no problem) and the key 
specs. 

For information, I have learnt one interesting point that people may find 
useful.  Although the silvertop and black top have different length conrods 
(ctr to ctr) and different compression heights.  The combined total of conrod 
length and compression height for the silvertop and blacktop are the same, 
meaning a set of silvertop conrods and pistons can be used to replace the 
blacktop ones.

Thanks for any help on the specs.

Nigel Plant
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Brake pipe flare

[Jim Hearne]

Ok, after some googleing, what i thought was a double flare is actually called 
a bubble flare.
So, the Quantums have mostly bubble flares but there are some double flares on 
there as well.

Jim


From: Jim Hearne 
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2021 4:42 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Brake pipe flare

I think the Imperial and Metric brake pipe sizes are compatible, still seems to 
be called 3/16”
I’ve certainly not bought a specific imperial or metric tool, just a brake pipe 
tool.
Some of the joints are double flare so make sure your tool can do those.

Get a decent tool, the cheap ones are very hard to get proper flares.
https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/halfords-brake-pipe-flaring-tool-kit-187982.html
This sort always seem to be poor.

I had one similar to this for a while, it was very good as long as you didn’t 
need to take the pipe out and put it back in again, it wouldn’t  always grip if 
you tried that.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/hand-held-brake-pipe-flaring-tool

I’ve got one of these now, very good but pricy.
https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/automotive/brake-and-clutch-tools/027250-hand-held-auto-brake-pipe-flaring-tool/p/ZT1120233X?utm_source=google_medium=cpc_campaign=dsa-generic_content=automotive=dsa-900928623826=Cj0KCQjwl9GCBhDvARIsAFunhsklmb5SPdAjX_N1DdZrRwc8GGPvfEIkIuFKdOlc4H5fTOkSKJSqI7caAsz1EALw_wcB

Jim







From: Derek Clews 
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2021 4:28 PM
To: Quantum Owners Club 
Cc: Derek Clews 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Brake pipe flare

Hi All, 

Can anyone confirm the Q Coupe and 2+2 (i.e. Fiesta Mk2) Brake system?  I want 
to get a flaring tool and think it is using a 4.75 DIN ISO 3/16" Single Bubble 
Flare.  Is that correct?


Cheers


Derek
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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
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entity with respect

Re: [Quantum Owners] Brake pipe flare

[Jim Hearne]

I think the Imperial and Metric brake pipe sizes are compatible, still seems to 
be called 3/16”
I’ve certainly not bought a specific imperial or metric tool, just a brake pipe 
tool.
Some of the joints are double flare so make sure your tool can do those.

Get a decent tool, the cheap ones are very hard to get proper flares.
https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/halfords-brake-pipe-flaring-tool-kit-187982.html
This sort always seem to be poor.

I had one similar to this for a while, it was very good as long as you didn’t 
need to take the pipe out and put it back in again, it wouldn’t  always grip if 
you tried that.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/hand-held-brake-pipe-flaring-tool

I’ve got one of these now, very good but pricy.
https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/automotive/brake-and-clutch-tools/027250-hand-held-auto-brake-pipe-flaring-tool/p/ZT1120233X?utm_source=google_medium=cpc_campaign=dsa-generic_content=automotive=dsa-900928623826=Cj0KCQjwl9GCBhDvARIsAFunhsklmb5SPdAjX_N1DdZrRwc8GGPvfEIkIuFKdOlc4H5fTOkSKJSqI7caAsz1EALw_wcB

Jim







From: Derek Clews 
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2021 4:28 PM
To: Quantum Owners Club 
Cc: Derek Clews 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Brake pipe flare

Hi All, 

Can anyone confirm the Q Coupe and 2+2 (i.e. Fiesta Mk2) Brake system?  I want 
to get a flaring tool and think it is using a 4.75 DIN ISO 3/16" Single Bubble 
Flare.  Is that correct?


Cheers


Derek
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entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
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entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

[Jim Hearne]

Yes, i agree, it does look a lot more like the Hatchback glass than the Cabrio 
glass.
I only ever had a Mk1 hardtop which i only used for a few weeks and then sold !
Jim
From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 12:27 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

Looking at your the image of the hardtop and compared to the photos it does 
look to be a MK3 hatch glass. 

Soo much more vision area compared to the earlier one.

Darren

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 11:34 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

  Oh, i suppose, maybe.

  Jim


  From: Jim Hearne 
  Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 11:32 AM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

  I’m still not convinced that it was a hatchback screen for the Mk2 Hardtop, 
i’m sure it would be far too big.

  Jim


  From: Darren Siepka 
  Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 11:02 AM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

  Here are images MK3 and MK4 golf glass to help identifying.

  On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:59 Darren Siepka,  wrote:


https://quantumforum.proboards.com/thread/106/quantum-saloon-fiesta-donor-parts 


On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:49 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

  Looks like a copy of the list i was looking for, do you have a link and 
i’ll save it again.
  I can confirm the 2+2 Mk1 hardtop did use a screen from a Mk4 Escort 
Cabro as i actually removed one from an Escort top and fitted in into my 2+2 
hard top.

  Jim


  From: Darren Siepka 
  Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 10:35 AM
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

  This from proboard forum 

  Says the bonded rear glass was mk3 hatchback.

  On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:28 Darren Siepka,  wrote:

Here are the two QTR glass codes 

Also don't forget you can get new HEATED front windscreens . 


https://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/ford-fiesta-clear-heated-windscreen.html

As Jim says the newer smooth hardtop uses a golf bonded glass from MK4 
iirc

Darren

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 09:59 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

  2+2 Quarterlight glass

  > Desc. Passat FDVL 81/88
  > HT Number..0730L GN5HFV
  > Sup. Part..321 845 251G
  > Bin No..M1023
  >


  The Mk2 saloon door door glass is MkII Astra 3 door 1984-1991, not 
the 2+2, as Paul says, that was Mk2 Fiesta

  Jim




  From: Gordon Harker 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 11:20 PM
  To: Quantum Owners Group 
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

  Strong little cars those 2+2's and did not intend to find out until 
under hard braking on a dry road the back over took the front.  Ended up 
visiting a ditch and hedge.  Still restored my faith in people, they stopped 
and towed me out, drove home. 

  On assessment, one bent tie rod, and lot broken glass and some excess 
hawthorne hedge.

  So, does any one know what the glass is please?  Specifically

  Rear heated glass on the later hard top, bonded I believe.
  Front quarter light n/s
  Assume windscreen and passenger window are standard MK2 bits (believe 
based on 83 ish car)

  the windscreen did intially survive, but the hedge got in on the way 
our, guess it was being vindictive.

  Other things are the fibre glass top (hockey stick) on top of quarter 
light is broken and front corner to hard top and not sitting flush at moment.  
Hard top should fibre glass ok and hockey stick may unless anyone has one lying 
around.

  Passenger door jammed shut but got even gaps all round, so will look 
at on a dry weeked.

  Thanks
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  IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an 
"As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person 
or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

[Jim Hearne]

I would think it’s not a very common requirement, as a long as a screen fits 
Car X Model Y nobody is really interested in it’s actual sizes.
Except kit builders of course.

Jim



From: susanandmartin 
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 11:59 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

I wonder if glass suppliers have catalogues with dimensions shown? It would be 
very helpful for us kit builders to be able to find such detail. I’ve looked at 
great length on the ‘net but found to such info ☹

Martin

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Jim Hearne
Sent: 04 March 2021 11:34
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

 

Oh, i suppose, maybe.

 

Jim

 

 

From: Jim Hearne 

Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 11:32 AM

To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 

Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

 

I’m still not convinced that it was a hatchback screen for the Mk2 Hardtop, i’m 
sure it would be far too big.

 

Jim

 

 

From: Darren Siepka 

Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 11:02 AM

To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 

Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

 

Here are images MK3 and MK4 golf glass to help identifying.

 

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:59 Darren Siepka,  wrote:

  
https://quantumforum.proboards.com/thread/106/quantum-saloon-fiesta-donor-parts 

   

   

  On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:49 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

Looks like a copy of the list i was looking for, do you have a link and 
i’ll save it again.

I can confirm the 2+2 Mk1 hardtop did use a screen from a Mk4 Escort Cabro 
as i actually removed one from an Escort top and fitted in into my 2+2 hard top.

 

Jim

 

 

From: Darren Siepka 

Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 10:35 AM

To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 

Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

 

This from proboard forum 

 

Says the bonded rear glass was mk3 hatchback.

 

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:28 Darren Siepka,  wrote:

  Here are the two QTR glass codes 

   

  Also don't forget you can get new HEATED front windscreens . 

   

  
https://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/ford-fiesta-clear-heated-windscreen.html

   

  As Jim says the newer smooth hardtop uses a golf bonded glass from MK4 
iirc

   

  Darren

   

  On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 09:59 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

2+2 Quarterlight glass

 

> Desc. Passat FDVL 81/88

> HT Number..0730L GN5HFV

> Sup. Part..321 845 251G

> Bin No..M1023

>

 

 

The Mk2 saloon door door glass is MkII Astra 3 door 1984-1991, not the 
2+2, as Paul says, that was Mk2 Fiesta

 

Jim

 

 

 

 

From: Gordon Harker 

Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 11:20 PM

To: Quantum Owners Group 

Subject: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

 

Strong little cars those 2+2's and did not intend to find out until 
under hard braking on a dry road the back over took the front.  Ended up 
visiting a ditch and hedge.  Still restored my faith in people, they stopped 
and towed me out, drove home. 

 

On assessment, one bent tie rod, and lot broken glass and some excess 
hawthorne hedge.

 

So, does any one know what the glass is please?  Specifically

 

Rear heated glass on the later hard top, bonded I believe.

Front quarter light n/s

Assume windscreen and passenger window are standard MK2 bits (believe 
based on 83 ish car)

 

the windscreen did intially survive, but the hedge got in on the way 
our, guess it was being vindictive.

 

Other things are the fibre glass top (hockey stick) on top of quarter 
light is broken and front corner to hard top and not sitting flush at moment.  
Hard top should fibre glass ok and hockey stick may unless anyone has one lying 
around.

 

Passenger door jammed shut but got even gaps all round, so will look at 
on a dry weeked.

 

Thanks

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an 
"As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to

Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

[Jim Hearne]

Oh, i suppose, maybe.

Jim


From: Jim Hearne 
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 11:32 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

I’m still not convinced that it was a hatchback screen for the Mk2 Hardtop, i’m 
sure it would be far too big.

Jim


From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 11:02 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

Here are images MK3 and MK4 golf glass to help identifying.

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:59 Darren Siepka,  wrote:

  
https://quantumforum.proboards.com/thread/106/quantum-saloon-fiesta-donor-parts 


  On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:49 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

Looks like a copy of the list i was looking for, do you have a link and 
i’ll save it again.
I can confirm the 2+2 Mk1 hardtop did use a screen from a Mk4 Escort Cabro 
as i actually removed one from an Escort top and fitted in into my 2+2 hard top.

Jim


From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 10:35 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

This from proboard forum 

Says the bonded rear glass was mk3 hatchback.

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:28 Darren Siepka,  wrote:

  Here are the two QTR glass codes 

  Also don't forget you can get new HEATED front windscreens . 

  
https://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/ford-fiesta-clear-heated-windscreen.html

  As Jim says the newer smooth hardtop uses a golf bonded glass from MK4 
iirc

  Darren

  On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 09:59 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

2+2 Quarterlight glass

> Desc. Passat FDVL 81/88
> HT Number..0730L GN5HFV
> Sup. Part..321 845 251G
> Bin No..M1023
>


The Mk2 saloon door door glass is MkII Astra 3 door 1984-1991, not the 
2+2, as Paul says, that was Mk2 Fiesta

Jim




From: Gordon Harker 
Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 11:20 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

Strong little cars those 2+2's and did not intend to find out until 
under hard braking on a dry road the back over took the front.  Ended up 
visiting a ditch and hedge.  Still restored my faith in people, they stopped 
and towed me out, drove home. 

On assessment, one bent tie rod, and lot broken glass and some excess 
hawthorne hedge.

So, does any one know what the glass is please?  Specifically

Rear heated glass on the later hard top, bonded I believe.
Front quarter light n/s
Assume windscreen and passenger window are standard MK2 bits (believe 
based on 83 ish car)

the windscreen did intially survive, but the hedge got in on the way 
our, guess it was being vindictive.

Other things are the fibre glass top (hockey stick) on top of quarter 
light is broken and front corner to hard top and not sitting flush at moment.  
Hard top should fibre glass ok and hockey stick may unless anyone has one lying 
around.

Passenger door jammed shut but got even gaps all round, so will look at 
on a dry weeked.

Thanks
-- 
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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an 
"As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person 
or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

[Jim Hearne]

I’m still not convinced that it was a hatchback screen for the Mk2 Hardtop, i’m 
sure it would be far too big.

Jim


From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 11:02 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

Here are images MK3 and MK4 golf glass to help identifying.

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:59 Darren Siepka,  wrote:

  
https://quantumforum.proboards.com/thread/106/quantum-saloon-fiesta-donor-parts 


  On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:49 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

Looks like a copy of the list i was looking for, do you have a link and 
i’ll save it again.
I can confirm the 2+2 Mk1 hardtop did use a screen from a Mk4 Escort Cabro 
as i actually removed one from an Escort top and fitted in into my 2+2 hard top.

Jim


From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 10:35 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

This from proboard forum 

Says the bonded rear glass was mk3 hatchback.

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:28 Darren Siepka,  wrote:

  Here are the two QTR glass codes 

  Also don't forget you can get new HEATED front windscreens . 

  
https://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/ford-fiesta-clear-heated-windscreen.html

  As Jim says the newer smooth hardtop uses a golf bonded glass from MK4 
iirc

  Darren

  On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 09:59 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

2+2 Quarterlight glass

> Desc. Passat FDVL 81/88
> HT Number..0730L GN5HFV
> Sup. Part..321 845 251G
> Bin No..M1023
>


The Mk2 saloon door door glass is MkII Astra 3 door 1984-1991, not the 
2+2, as Paul says, that was Mk2 Fiesta

Jim




From: Gordon Harker 
Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 11:20 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

Strong little cars those 2+2's and did not intend to find out until 
under hard braking on a dry road the back over took the front.  Ended up 
visiting a ditch and hedge.  Still restored my faith in people, they stopped 
and towed me out, drove home. 

On assessment, one bent tie rod, and lot broken glass and some excess 
hawthorne hedge.

So, does any one know what the glass is please?  Specifically

Rear heated glass on the later hard top, bonded I believe.
Front quarter light n/s
Assume windscreen and passenger window are standard MK2 bits (believe 
based on 83 ish car)

the windscreen did intially survive, but the hedge got in on the way 
our, guess it was being vindictive.

Other things are the fibre glass top (hockey stick) on top of quarter 
light is broken and front corner to hard top and not sitting flush at moment.  
Hard top should fibre glass ok and hockey stick may unless anyone has one lying 
around.

Passenger door jammed shut but got even gaps all round, so will look at 
on a dry weeked.

Thanks
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or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

[Jim Hearne]

Looks like a copy of the list i was looking for, do you have a link and i’ll 
save it again.
I can confirm the 2+2 Mk1 hardtop did use a screen from a Mk4 Escort Cabro as i 
actually removed one from an Escort top and fitted in into my 2+2 hard top.

Jim


From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 10:35 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

This from proboard forum 

Says the bonded rear glass was mk3 hatchback.

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 10:28 Darren Siepka,  wrote:

  Here are the two QTR glass codes 

  Also don't forget you can get new HEATED front windscreens . 

  
https://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/ford-fiesta-clear-heated-windscreen.html

  As Jim says the newer smooth hardtop uses a golf bonded glass from MK4 iirc

  Darren

  On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 09:59 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

2+2 Quarterlight glass

> Desc. Passat FDVL 81/88
> HT Number..0730L GN5HFV
> Sup. Part..321 845 251G
> Bin No..M1023
>


The Mk2 saloon door door glass is MkII Astra 3 door 1984-1991, not the 2+2, 
as Paul says, that was Mk2 Fiesta

Jim




From: Gordon Harker 
Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 11:20 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

Strong little cars those 2+2's and did not intend to find out until under 
hard braking on a dry road the back over took the front.  Ended up visiting a 
ditch and hedge.  Still restored my faith in people, they stopped and towed me 
out, drove home. 

On assessment, one bent tie rod, and lot broken glass and some excess 
hawthorne hedge.

So, does any one know what the glass is please?  Specifically

Rear heated glass on the later hard top, bonded I believe.
Front quarter light n/s
Assume windscreen and passenger window are standard MK2 bits (believe based 
on 83 ish car)

the windscreen did intially survive, but the hedge got in on the way our, 
guess it was being vindictive.

Other things are the fibre glass top (hockey stick) on top of quarter light 
is broken and front corner to hard top and not sitting flush at moment.  Hard 
top should fibre glass ok and hockey stick may unless anyone has one lying 
around.

Passenger door jammed shut but got even gaps all round, so will look at on 
a dry weeked.

Thanks
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Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in 
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or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

[Jim Hearne]

I knew some Mk2 Fiesta heated screens had been made but i didn’t know they were 
available from stock, thanks.

Jim


From: Darren Siepka 
Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 10:28 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

Here are the two QTR glass codes 

Also don't forget you can get new HEATED front windscreens . 

https://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/ford-fiesta-clear-heated-windscreen.html

As Jim says the newer smooth hardtop uses a golf bonded glass from MK4 iirc

Darren

On Thu, 4 Mar 2021, 09:59 Jim Hearne,  wrote:

  2+2 Quarterlight glass

  > Desc. Passat FDVL 81/88
  > HT Number..0730L GN5HFV
  > Sup. Part..321 845 251G
  > Bin No..M1023
  >


  The Mk2 saloon door door glass is MkII Astra 3 door 1984-1991, not the 2+2, 
as Paul says, that was Mk2 Fiesta

  Jim




  From: Gordon Harker 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 11:20 PM
  To: Quantum Owners Group 
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

  Strong little cars those 2+2's and did not intend to find out until under 
hard braking on a dry road the back over took the front.  Ended up visiting a 
ditch and hedge.  Still restored my faith in people, they stopped and towed me 
out, drove home. 

  On assessment, one bent tie rod, and lot broken glass and some excess 
hawthorne hedge.

  So, does any one know what the glass is please?  Specifically

  Rear heated glass on the later hard top, bonded I believe.
  Front quarter light n/s
  Assume windscreen and passenger window are standard MK2 bits (believe based 
on 83 ish car)

  the windscreen did intially survive, but the hedge got in on the way our, 
guess it was being vindictive.

  Other things are the fibre glass top (hockey stick) on top of quarter light 
is broken and front corner to hard top and not sitting flush at moment.  Hard 
top should fibre glass ok and hockey stick may unless anyone has one lying 
around.

  Passenger door jammed shut but got even gaps all round, so will look at on a 
dry weeked.

  Thanks
  -- 
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  IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
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entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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  IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
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IMPORTA

Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

[Jim Hearne]

2+2 Quarterlight glass

> Desc. Passat FDVL 81/88
> HT Number..0730L GN5HFV
> Sup. Part..321 845 251G
> Bin No..M1023
>


The Mk2 saloon door door glass is MkII Astra 3 door 1984-1991, not the 2+2, as 
Paul says, that was Mk2 Fiesta

Jim




From: Gordon Harker 
Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 11:20 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

Strong little cars those 2+2's and did not intend to find out until under hard 
braking on a dry road the back over took the front.  Ended up visiting a ditch 
and hedge.  Still restored my faith in people, they stopped and towed me out, 
drove home. 

On assessment, one bent tie rod, and lot broken glass and some excess hawthorne 
hedge.

So, does any one know what the glass is please?  Specifically

Rear heated glass on the later hard top, bonded I believe.
Front quarter light n/s
Assume windscreen and passenger window are standard MK2 bits (believe based on 
83 ish car)

the windscreen did intially survive, but the hedge got in on the way our, guess 
it was being vindictive.

Other things are the fibre glass top (hockey stick) on top of quarter light is 
broken and front corner to hard top and not sitting flush at moment.  Hard top 
should fibre glass ok and hockey stick may unless anyone has one lying around.

Passenger door jammed shut but got even gaps all round, so will look at on a 
dry weeked.

Thanks
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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners 
Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

[Jim Hearne]

Oh dear,
Sorry to hear about your incident, at least nobody was hurt.

You might want to check the rear brake setup if it’s spun like that, it may be 
overbraked on the rear, does it have rear disks ?

I am trying to find my list of where the glass comes from.
Windscreen is certainly standard Mk1 or Mk2  Fiesta  (either will fit with the 
matching rubber)
I think, and i might be wrong until i find my list, the quarterlights were 
Passat and the door glass is Astra (not donor)
I know the early hard top glass is Mk4 Escort but i think the later hard top 
(yes is was bonded in) was Golf

There is a steel tube that runs up the windscreen pillars , hopefully that 
hasn’t bent.

You should be able to get a new hockey stick from Quantum

I will keep looking for my non donor car parts list, unless anybody else can 
find a copy, used to be on the old smartgroups site before we moved to Google.

Jim


From: Gordon Harker 
Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 11:20 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Advise or help please

Strong little cars those 2+2's and did not intend to find out until under hard 
braking on a dry road the back over took the front.  Ended up visiting a ditch 
and hedge.  Still restored my faith in people, they stopped and towed me out, 
drove home. 

On assessment, one bent tie rod, and lot broken glass and some excess hawthorne 
hedge.

So, does any one know what the glass is please?  Specifically

Rear heated glass on the later hard top, bonded I believe.
Front quarter light n/s
Assume windscreen and passenger window are standard MK2 bits (believe based on 
83 ish car)

the windscreen did intially survive, but the hedge got in on the way our, guess 
it was being vindictive.

Other things are the fibre glass top (hockey stick) on top of quarter light is 
broken and front corner to hard top and not sitting flush at moment.  Hard top 
should fibre glass ok and hockey stick may unless anyone has one lying around.

Passenger door jammed shut but got even gaps all round, so will look at on a 
dry weeked.

Thanks
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 (Fiesta Mk3) Bonnet release

[Jim Hearne]

I checked on the online parts catalogue and it doesn't show any extra 
brackets, i'm sure the lever and the cable outer both mount to the big 
alloy casting around the end of the column


https://ford.catalogs-parts.com/#{client:1;page:part;lang:en;category:car;catalog:74;param:no;group:0;groupsubgroup:1937;subgroup:17017;subsubgroup:73868}

https://ford.catalogs-parts.com/#{client:1;page:part;lang:en;category:car;catalog:74;param:no;group:0;groupsubgroup:1931;subgroup:16990;subsubgroup:73756}

Jim


On 28/02/2021 12:25, Jim Hearne wrote:

Here's a reasonable picture with the Mk3 column at the bottom.

Jim


On 28/02/2021 11:57, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:


Hi

I think there is a bit missing.  I think there probably should be a 
bracket in there which holds the release handle pivots and provides a 
point for the cable sleeve to be held correctly.


I can fabricate stuff. The problem of course is having no drawings to 
work with so that the release handle lands up correctly placed for 
the column shroud. It doesn't promise to be easy.


To answer Jim's comment, I do think this is a Mk3 set up - the dash 
is Mk3 shape (but with the mod to the dials), switchgear seems to 
match and the column shrouds make sense in the they fit neatly where 
you'd expect them to.


Thanks all.


On 2021-02-28 10:38, susanandmartin wrote:

I can only think that part of your column is missing/been changed. 
Is it possible to rig up a suitable bracket to bolt onto your 
column? To hold the outer cable, there are many bicycle brake cable 
parts which may help – Ebay may give some inspiration, and I may 
well have something in my spares box that I can help you with. Are 
you able to attach some photos of the area/parts?


Martin Scott

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
Windows 10


*From: *jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
<mailto:jul...@cityaudioservices.com>

*Sent: *28 February 2021 08:39
*To: *quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
<mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com>

*Subject: *[Quantum Owners] H4 (Fiesta Mk3) Bonnet release

Hi

My H4 has an awful bodge on the steering column bonnet release - 
actually it isn't even bodged, the cable sheath is not constrained 
at all and there is no lever. I have obtained the orange lever and 
spring which appears to be correct and I have sourced a cable which 
will work. However having removed the cowl at last I find there is 
nothing on the column into which this lever fits so on its own it is 
useless.


Does anyone have, or know how to obtain, this unit?

Thanks

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an 
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or indirectly by the instructi

Re: [Quantum Owners] New 2+2

[Jim Hearne]

I thought the new 2+2 was going to be at Stoneleigh last year but of 
course that was cancelled.
I guess it will be cancelled this year as well (if it's not been 
already) unless it has been moved to later in the year.


Jim


On 27/02/2021 18:29, susanandmartin wrote:


I notice on Totalkitcar.com there is an announcement that a new 2+2 is 
coming! Does anyone have any images yet? An interesting development, 
and I’m sure congratulations are due to Rob and the team.


Martin Scott

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows 10


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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 (Fiesta Mk3) Bonnet release

[Jim Hearne]

Here's a reasonable picture with the Mk3 column at the bottom.

Jim


On 28/02/2021 11:57, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:


Hi

I think there is a bit missing.  I think there probably should be a 
bracket in there which holds the release handle pivots and provides a 
point for the cable sleeve to be held correctly.


I can fabricate stuff. The problem of course is having no drawings to 
work with so that the release handle lands up correctly placed for the 
column shroud. It doesn't promise to be easy.


To answer Jim's comment, I do think this is a Mk3 set up - the dash is 
Mk3 shape (but with the mod to the dials), switchgear seems to match 
and the column shrouds make sense in the they fit neatly where you'd 
expect them to.


Thanks all.


On 2021-02-28 10:38, susanandmartin wrote:

I can only think that part of your column is missing/been changed. Is 
it possible to rig up a suitable bracket to bolt onto your column? To 
hold the outer cable, there are many bicycle brake cable parts which 
may help – Ebay may give some inspiration, and I may well have 
something in my spares box that I can help you with. Are you able to 
attach some photos of the area/parts?


Martin Scott

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows 10


*From: *jul...@cityaudioservices.com 


*Sent: *28 February 2021 08:39
*To: *quantumowners@googlegroups.com 


*Subject: *[Quantum Owners] H4 (Fiesta Mk3) Bonnet release

Hi

My H4 has an awful bodge on the steering column bonnet release - 
actually it isn't even bodged, the cable sheath is not constrained at 
all and there is no lever. I have obtained the orange lever and 
spring which appears to be correct and I have sourced a cable which 
will work. However having removed the cowl at last I find there is 
nothing on the column into which this lever fits so on its own it is 
useless.


Does anyone have, or know how to obtain, this unit?

Thanks

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Fw: [Quantum Owners] Looking for information on Quantum Saloon

[Jim Hearne]

Managed to send the message below just to Martin and not the list.

Jim


From: Jim Hearne 
Sent: Tuesday, February 9, 2021 9:22 AM
To: susanandmartin 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Looking for information on Quantum Saloon

You send it back to them and they recharge it.
I know some of the Quantum supplied ones were like that so maybe Pauls ones 
could just be recharged.
Unscrew the ball fitting from the end of the body of the strut and there may be 
a valve under it, like a tyre valve.

This company do them.
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts

I’ve not bought gas struts from them yet (i need some for my saloon) but have 
bought quite a bit of their workshop equipment.

Jim


From: susanandmartin 
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2021 10:05 PM
To: Jim Hearne 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Looking for information on Quantum Saloon

Interesting…. But what happens if you go too far and need to add some?

Martin

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Jim Hearne
Sent: 08 February 2021 21:50
To: susanandmartin
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Looking for information on Quantum Saloon

 

A lot of the after market gas struts are supplied with maximum pressure and 
have a valve in the end which lets you release the gas a little at a time until 
it's right for your application.

Jim



On 08/02/2021 14:51, susanandmartin wrote:

  Assuming the old struts worked when they were new, if they have markings on 
them showing the Newtons, it may be just a case of measuring compressed length 
and free length – An online search of suppliers should show up something. Low 
strength ones are often used for tractor windows, office equipment etc.

  Martin Scott

   

  Sent from Mail for Windows 10

   

  From: paul slater
  Sent: 08 February 2021 13:58
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Looking for information on Quantum Saloon

   

  Thank you for the photos. They show where its picked up the small amount of 
damage to the nose and sill sections at the lower edge as all intact in the 
photo with white wheels.

  Also shows what has been worked on recently too.

   

  Getting a list of part together that I know it needs,

  Need to find out where the gas struts for the boot come from as they are past 
their best and don’t hold the boot open anymore.

   

  Many thanks

  Paul

   

   

  From: Dave English
  Sent: 07 February 2021 21:21
  To: Quantum Owners Group
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Looking for information on Quantum Saloon

   

  Hi Paul.

   

  Haven't got anything on the E-bay seller I saw but here's some of the photos 
I picked up.

   

  Regards

  Dave E

  Q2-009

   



   

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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 headlamps

[Jim Hearne]

Can you take some pictures ?
The H4 normally uses the donor Mk3 units set back in the car.

If they are anything like the ones in my 2+2 they were bought at a kit 
car show and are either surplus stock from a production car or maybe 
even prototypes for something never built.

I've never worked out what mine were from so i hope one never gets broken.
At least on the 2+2 they are behind the flaps during the day.

Jim

On 09/02/2021 17:59, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:


Hi

My H4 has a blown main beam headlamp bulb. The problem is no-one 
recognises what it is. As I understand it the original kit used the 
Fiesta integrated lights. However this one has been fitted with a mod 
- each side is a pair of circular light modules of different sizes. 
Does anyone know what the bulbs were that were used and if possible, 
where to find replacements? I have a feeling they are halogens, they 
are quite bright. But the pattern is unknown. It has been suggested 
that this might have been a Moretti (?) unit.


Any info on bulb type and suppliers gratefully received!


Regards


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Re: [Quantum Owners] Looking for information on Quantum Saloon

[Jim Hearne]

You mention this car is at the other end of the country.
Are you going to pick this car up or is the seller going to arrange for it to 
be delivered ?

If they are delivering it be careful, i know somebody who was scammed out of 
10K when they bought a camper at the other end of the country without actually 
seeing it.
The seller was very helpful and supposedly arranged shipping and everything.
They paid the seller by bank transfer and then heard nothing, it was a scam, 
the pictures came from the internet and the “seller” never had a camper.
The bank was no help as it was a proper payment.

Jim



From: Paul Laters 
Sent: Tuesday, February 2, 2021 1:26 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Looking for information on Quantum Saloon

Thank you that would be a great help.


On Tuesday, 2 February 2021 at 11:21:41 UTC Jan wrote:

  Hi Paul.

  I can have a look back on my listing once I have finished work later tonight 
to see if it has or is registered with a club member 

  Regards Jan Haines 
  QOC membership secretary. 



  Sent from my Galaxy


   Original message 
  From: Paul Laters  
  Date: 02/02/2021 10:06 (GMT+00:00) 
  To: Quantum Owners Group  
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Looking for information on Quantum Saloon 

  Hello I used to own a 2+2 a few years back which ended up being sold due to 
growing family. 
  I've been in the position now that I can now have a hobby car again & bought 
a classic car to mess with.
  Looking through car adverts came across a listing for a quantum saloon.
  The 2+2 is one of a few cars I really regretted selling & really do miss the 
car.
  The saloon is red with a chassis number of Q144

  The car is at the other end of the country to me so if I bought the car it 
would be bought via socially distancing & transported.
  There is very little history of the car on mot history but from the photos it 
does look quite tidy.

  Is the car known within the club?
  thanks
  Paul
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Car cover recommendations?

[Jim Hearne]

I’ve not had good experience with covers on painted cars, i’ve always found 
that they get damp trapped under the cover (even supposedly breathable ones) 
and it makes the paint blister up with blisters full of water.
This has mostly been Quantums but also on production cars.

If your car is in gelcoat rather than painted then it may be ok.
A good coat of polish before covering it may help.

I’m guessing that more modern paint absorbs the moisture and somehow it 
accumulates under the paint.
I’ve even had it to a degree on my 2+2 under the edge of the hood where it sits 
against the body and the 2+2 has never been left outside.

Jim


From: mgaskin via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2021 4:43 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Car cover recommendations?

Hi all,

 

My Q2+2 has been temporarily banished from the garage and I’d like to find a 
car cover that’s a good fit, rather than a plastic tarp that’s already blown 
off the car several times since Christmas despite the use of multiple bungees. 
Rather than just take a punt online, do any of you have good reports of 
something that fits well, doesn’t do any damage, and stays on?

 

Many thanks in advance

 

Matthew

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: maff sensor body

[Jim Hearne]

Are you looking for the aluminium part in this picture ?
If so, you won’t find it separately, that whole thing is the MAF and it’s sold 
as one item.
The aluminium housing is machined to match the actual sensor and divert the 
correct amount of airflow past the sensor.
If you let me have the part number from the MAF itself i will see if i have one 
you can have.

Jim



From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2020 3:22 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Cc: Pete M 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: maff sensor body

Hi

Thanks for your response, however it's not the MAF that is faulty: the sensor 
is fine. The problem is mechanical. The part that is broken is part of the tube 
into/onto which the MAF fits. This tube is a section of cast aluminium which is 
fitted between the air filter and the intake manifold and forms part of the air 
path. The tube has integral mounting lugs. One of these lugs was used to attach 
the part to a bracket mounted on the engine, but this mounting lug has now has 
broken off leaving the MAF and filter relying on some hose to keep it on place. 

So what I'm looking for is the aluminium tube/body.

Regards




On 2020-12-20 22:29, Pete M wrote:

  If you need to replace the MAF then from what I remember it isn't tied to the 
ECU so a MAF from a similar 2.0 Mondeo ought to swap.  Mine was from a P-reg 
Mondeo - I can take a photo of it to see if it's the same as the earliest 
engines?


  On Saturday, 19 December 2020 at 15:12:28 UTC julian wrote:
Hi

I've just found that the mounting bracket on the maf sensor body on the H4 
has snapped. The engine is a 2L Mondeo. Can anyone advise how to go about 
finding a replacement given I have no info on the car this engine came from. 
The engine is a very early model but I'm not certain that the sensor body is a 
match anyway. The maf is correct for the engine and is working fine.

Thanks 



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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

[Jim Hearne]

That may have been what i was thinking of as well.
Obviously wouldn’t have been the original part Quantum used as the Mk4 Fiesta 
wasn’t around then.
JIm
From: susanandmartin 
Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 11:14 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

I used a later part…. Details below from my list

 

  Bracket-anti roll bar
 96FB
 5488
 AA
 1003610
 Fiesta 96 part


 

Martin Scott

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: John R
Sent: 31 October 2020 16:21
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

 

Hi All

 

Are the saloon rear ARB brackets, P clamps etc. custom QSC or standard Fiesta 
MK2?  I do have a build manual but it does not seem to specify.

 

Currently running what looks like a standard XR2 ARB 14mm diameter but as I 
will be rebuilding rear suspension soon thinking of upgrading it.

 

John

 

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

[Jim Hearne]

On the saloon only the ARB itself and the rubber bushes are Mk2 Fiesta.
There are no mounting brackets like on the Fiesta, the clamps bolt directly to 
the floor.
And the Clamps are top hat shaped clamps with 2 bolts rather than P shaped with 
1 bolt on the Fiesta
>From memory they came from Mk3 Fiesta but i might be wrong.

Jim


From: John R 
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2020 4:21 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

Hi All 

Are the saloon rear ARB brackets, P clamps etc. custom QSC or standard Fiesta 
MK2?  I do have a build manual but it does not seem to specify.

Currently running what looks like a standard XR2 ARB 14mm diameter but as I 
will be rebuilding rear suspension soon thinking of upgrading it.

John

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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 headlamp cover

[Jim Hearne]

Ian Cummings made a batch up a few years ago, i don’t know if there are any 
left.
You could also try Quantum, they may have some.

There were actually 2 sorts, the early ones had a black band around the edge to 
hide the adhesive, the later ones didn’t.
The glued on ones tend to be the ones that fall off after a while so a few 
screws are a good idea, just don’t crack the Perspex

Jim



From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 4:41 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] H4 headlamp cover

Hi

My satisfaction when hearing the H4 had passed its MoT without so much as an 
advisory note was somewhat dented when I spotted that one of the headlamp 
covers (moulded clear plastic mounted in the bonnet) was missing. Having 
checked the area I can only assume it was detached en-route.

So, does anyone have a nearside unit, a pair, or knowledge of any way to obtain 
one or have one made that will save the day?

Thanks

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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 gear shift

[Jim Hearne]

The Mk1 Mondeo with the silver top Xetecs always had the MTX75 gearbox.
When the same engine was used in the 1.6 and lower power 1.8 versions in the 
Mk3 / 3.5 Fiesta and Mk5/6 Escort it had a IB5 gearbox. 
The Mk5/6 Escort XR3i 130ps version had a MTX75 gearbox (as did the Escort 
Diesel).
As you say, the engines are the same and either gearbox will fit with a 
matching flywheel.
A common gearbox to use on higher power engines is one from a Mk3/3.5 Fiesta 
diesel as that was a stronger box but still in B5/IB5 housing so fits easily in 
the H4

Jim





From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2020 9:39 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 gear shift

Jim

I could well have simply mistakenly inferred that from the context. I assume 
the Zetec block is no different between the 1.6L and the 2L, so a 1.6 box would 
fit. As I recall the info was that it was a box from a diesel! 

Anyway, I'll take a photo when I'm back (away today) and send it over. 

Julian




On 2020-09-21 21:47, Jim Hearne wrote:

  Oops, just replied to you, not the group.

  I would be very surprised if it was a gearbox from a Mondeo, the MTX75 on 
those is quite a lot bigger and would have issues with driveshafts, gearchange 
(Cable) and clutch (Hydraulic).
  It's not impossible but i'm not aware of any H4 with Mondeo gearboxes, if it 
is then that could explain things.
  I can tell from a picture if it's a MTX75

  Jim



  On 21/09/2020 20:46, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:
Jim

What info I have doesn't suggest any gearbox rebuild - where changes were 
made they were detailed, this was just listed as 'gearbox from a Mondeo - 
believed good' or something of that sort. Anyway, if 5th is out of kilter, it 
ought to be possible to feel that.

Many thanks.






On 2020-09-21 20:18, Jim Hearne wrote:

  If it's adjusted correctly (putting the locking pin in the bottom of the 
gearchange) then the fact it's short shift shouldn't make any difference to the 
gear selection.

  If the gearbox has been rebuilt at sometime then it's possible the 5th 
gear selector isn't set correctly, this needs to be set manually when you are 
rebuilding the gearbox.
  It can be done in the car (on the 2+2 at least) after just removing the 
gearbox end cover.

  Jim



  On 21/09/2020 19:12, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:
Hi

My H4 has a 'short shift' lever which is OK in 123 and usually 4 but 
terrible in and out of 5. Adjustment works to centre it properly but makes no 
odds to selecting 5.

I have no info on what was done to make it a short shift, though I'm 
aware of the trick to shift the fulcrum. The engine is a Mondeo silver top 2L. 

Has anyone any knowledge of this linkage and more to the point, how to 
improve matters? 

Thanks



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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 gear shift

[Jim Hearne]

Oops, just replied to you, not the group.

I would be very surprised if it was a gearbox from a Mondeo, the MTX75 
on those is quite a lot bigger and would have issues with driveshafts, 
gearchange (Cable) and clutch (Hydraulic).
It's not impossible but i'm not aware of any H4 with Mondeo gearboxes, 
if it is then that could explain things.

I can tell from a picture if it's a MTX75

Jim


On 21/09/2020 20:46, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:


Jim

What info I have doesn't suggest any gearbox rebuild - where changes 
were made they were detailed, this was just listed as 'gearbox from a 
Mondeo - believed good' or something of that sort. Anyway, if 5th is 
out of kilter, it ought to be possible to feel that.


Many thanks.



On 2020-09-21 20:18, Jim Hearne wrote:

If it's adjusted correctly (putting the locking pin in the bottom of 
the gearchange) then the fact it's short shift shouldn't make any 
difference to the gear selection.


If the gearbox has been rebuilt at sometime then it's possible the 
5th gear selector isn't set correctly, this needs to be set manually 
when you are rebuilding the gearbox.
It can be done in the car (on the 2+2 at least) after just removing 
the gearbox end cover.


Jim


On 21/09/2020 19:12, jul...@cityaudioservices.com 
<mailto:jul...@cityaudioservices.com> wrote:


Hi

My H4 has a 'short shift' lever which is OK in 123 and usually 4 but 
terrible in and out of 5. Adjustment works to centre it properly but 
makes no odds to selecting 5.


I have no info on what was done to make it a short shift, though I'm 
aware of the trick to shift the fulcrum. The engine is a Mondeo 
silver top 2L.


Has anyone any knowledge of this linkage and more to the point, how 
to improve matters?


Thanks


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Re: [Quantum Owners] Build Manual

[Jim Hearne]

It’s not been working for me for a couple of days.

Both of these time out.

www.quantumowners.club/
www.quantumowners.co.uk/

Jim



From: 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 5:24 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Build Manual

Paul,

I'm in the middle of a house move, so the club website will not be as reliable 
for the next month or 2. It should be up at the moment though.

Regards,
Steve

On 15 September 2020 22:59:57 Paul Wilson  wrote:

  Hi Thank you for your reply, just been trying to get on site but it seems to 
be down at the moment, Will have to try later, 
  Paul


  On Monday, 14 September 2020 at 11:54:59 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

I think you can download them from the owners club web site.

Jim


From: Paul Wilson 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 11:35 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Build Manual

Hi Everybody, 
Just brought myself a H4I, that needs restoration, is there anywhere i can 
buy a copy of the build manual, 
Best Regards,
Paul
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Oil pressure switch

[Jim Hearne]

> As some of you know in the past I have had bad experiences with wiring ie / 
> fire/ and shock. 

No, tell me more 

Jim


From: 'robert greig' via Quantum Owners Group 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 4:25 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Oil pressure switch


Many thanks Jim, ken.

I will ask my dad to check earthing the wires one at a time.

I have a healthy respect NO... fear of wiring!  
As some of you know in the past I have had bad experiences with wiring ie / 
fire/ and shock. 

   
Many thanks.
Robert
On Monday, 14 September 2020, 15:45:09 BST, Jim Hearne  
wrote: 


Aftermarket oil pressure gauges are often inverted compared to the petrol and 
temperature gauges on the Quantums.
These oil pressure gauges will go to max if they aren’t connected to the 
sender, or as i suspect the sender has gone open circuit.
Try earthing both the wires (one at a time), one will make the light come on, 
the other make the pressure gauge go to min.

Jim


From: Ken Needham 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 3:36 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Oil pressure switch

Hi Robert, If as Jim says,one wire is for the indicator lamp and the other for 
the gauge, it could be a wiring fault with the “gauge” wire shorting to earth. 
Does the indication lamp come on and then go out with the engine running? If 
you disconnect the wires from the switch, does the gauge go to full scale or 
not move. If it still goes to full scale, a wiring fault is indicated. If not 
then the switch is internally shorted.

Regards

Ken



Sent from Mail for Windows 10



From: 'robert greig' via Quantum Owners Group
Sent: 10 September 2020 19:15
To: 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Oil pressure switch



So I've tried 



First clean all contacts.   No change!

Take one wire plug off.No change!

Take the other wire off.   No Change!

swop the wires round.   No change.



and yes if you turn on the ignition the gauge does go to max.



I was confused to start with, now I"ve ordered a replacement So hope that fixes 
this.



Many thanks for the help.



Regards Robert









On Thursday, 10 September 2020, 10:22:50 BST, 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners 
Group  wrote: 





Could it be a wiring issue? What happens if you remove one of the connections 
from the sender? Try removing each one at a time.

I'm assuming it goes straight to max when you turn the ignition on, even before 
starting the engine?

Regards,
Steve

On 09/09/2020 21:07, 'robert greig' via Quantum Owners Group wrote:

Hello. Quick question. 



Oil pressure switch on the Xtreme! 

Mine is showing max when engine is running. It's not a stock Ford one. Two 
wires with push on connectos. 

I've seen on ebay simular ones. 80 psi or 100 psi. The gauge in the car is 90 
psi max. 

Do I get the 100 psi? 



Thanks in advance. 



Robert.





Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners 
Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liabil