Given all that’s going on, I wouldn’t be surprised if late 2020 becomes spring
or summer 2021.
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I think the main advantage of the RBW ball and socket seat lug is that it
works for most any seat stay to seat tube angle, so one casting works for
all sizes.
Aesthetics are always in the eye of the beholder. Personally I like the
looks of the new lug fine. Of course others may not.
Another
And it's sold, just that quick. You folks are awesome!
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 5:40:04 PM UTC-5 Ted Durant wrote:
> For sale is my "Travelo" - a Rivendell Protovelo Bleriot that has S
> couplers installed by Bilenky and a recent repaint (with Bleriot decals and
> head
Wahoo. Gotta love that.
Time to go buy a lottery ticket while your luck is hot.
Congratulations.
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First there was the QB
After a hiatus, there was one batch of SOs.
Another hiatus.
Then the Blue Lug instigated FJ Sr.
And another hiatus.
Another dedicated single speed coming out wouldn't surprise me.
I also wouldn't hold my breath.
RBW has a lot on their plate at the moment, and SS models
Joel,
I'm sure you deserve a 401k funded retirement treat. It's great you are
able to ride again. I too am recently (~1.5yr) retired. Great deal aint it?
Everybody should be so lucky.
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 10:53:23 AM UTC-7, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> Ted, I have had 8 Rivendells bef
to your Bleriot but perhaps a
bit more stable, and the Joe A and Atlantis to be more stable.
regards
ted
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 9:57:49 AM UTC-7, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> Ted, thanks. I am beginning to understand the slopping TT and what that
> means. From what I am reading I woul
Joel,
The top tubes of most MIT Rivs (including the MIT AHH and Atlantis) have
significantly more slope than the older models like your Bleriot.
Therefore the size for a given bar height with respect to seat height is
smaller, and ones proper size based on pbh is smaller.
Stand over is
All the technomic ish stems I've had are of the deluxish genus with the
nice custom "nut" that matches the stem shape.
But If presented with one of the other kind with a standard nut, I would
put a wrench on it and not trust the, in my view, sketchy ledge to hold it.
Because, I don't buy
I'd suggest a right sized roadini, note the latest email says they are
going to start letting buyers take care of frame prep and headset install,
either themselves or via a shop they trust.
Or a Black Mountain Cycles Road. Heck of a good value for your $.
Were I buying new with your priorities
"Don’t know why this stem chewed up my bars ... "
I don't think this is uncommon. Nitto sells a tool to help avoid it.
https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-tool-4-stem-handlebar-clamp-spreader/stem_tool_nitto__870-900-11_870-900-11/product
A large flat head screwdriver, or some such, can sometimes
The photo Eric posted looks like a Technomic Delux. What you are describing
sounds like a plain Technomic.
If you want to find a 50mm Technomic Delux, I suggest trying Ben's /
Milwaukee cycles
https://www.benscycle.com/
t to do so. But I'd never call into question anybody else's decision
to so.
On Monday, June 15, 2020 at 10:16:12 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Ted: Wrestling in prayer not to jerk the thread onto a tangent, but giving
> in to sin with the consolation that the tangent isn't irrelev
Trying is knowing. Do it.
After riding strictly on tubulars for a couple decades I went back to
clinches and never got results I was really happy with till I tried a pair
of Grand Boise extralights I bought from Compass bikes (before JH
introduced his like of tires). If you are at all
To clarify I was suggesting putting the brake lugs on the underside of the
mid stays, not on the chainstays.
I don't think they would get gunked worse there than on the top as they are
on that prototype, and I would think the cable routing was cleaner that way.
YMMV of course.
On Thursday, June
Please, please, please.
On the final design either put the v-brake studs on the bottom of the mid
stays or put the rear brake cable stops on the top of the "top" tube.
Brake cable should NOT cross the plane of the mid stays.
On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 12:21:03 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding
recommended variation on that route:
Make a left on Welch Creek (slightly before the bridge near the bottom of
the climb on calaveras).
Go most of the way up and hang a right into Sunol Wilderness on the Eagle
View (?) trail at the 2.7 mile marker parking pull out (parking on left).
Proceed down
Whereabouts are you? Maybe try calling around to LBS that sell a lot of Brooks
or have a good repair shop.
Failing that, try googling for places near you that would have parts on hand.
E.g. in Seattle
http://www.rideyourbike.com/brookssaddlerepair.shtml
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day, June 9, 2020 at 4:24:23 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
> What are your 50mm tires Ted ? It seems pressure does play a large role
> in all this !
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 12:52:31 AM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>>
>> Love my road bikes, also love my Bombadil.
>>
>>
Love my road bikes, also love my Bombadil.
Logged lots of miles on ~21 or 22mm tubulars, was on 26mm tires today. Yep,
ride great. Probably wouldn't choose them for riding over the ridge in my
local open space though.
Yes wide tires are just wider, well wider and taller. The wider tends to
ugh for me, data be damned" Moore
>
> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 5:46 PM ted >
> wrote:
>
>> I don't doubt she shaved 1.5 lbs in the switch at all, just that it is
>> all in swapping tubes for sealant.
>>
>> Try your calcs again ignoring the tires.
>> e
> because I first installed 700C X 50 Furious Freds at 360 grams each.
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 4:57 PM ted >
> wrote:
>
>> Depending on the size tires you ride, replacing your tubes with sealant
>> can save a few ounces but 1.5 pounds seems implausible.
>&
edding tubes. That said, none of us
> women are weight weenies - we’re choosing stout Rivendell bikes as our
> daily riders after all, but if we can trim some of the fat to make the
> bikes more maneuverable, we do.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jun 7, 2020, at 1:57
of whether one finds the repair process for one system more or
less onerous than the other.
On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 12:54:39 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Precisely my assessment as well, Ted. Goatheads are the dividing line I
> see. Yet, clearly, there is another divi
resulting from similar irritants)
tubeless may be an answer. Different circumstances / environments often
warrant different equipment choices.
regards
Ted
On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 11:42:21 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Sweet ride, Roberta! I know how much more my daughters love
a puncture belt (tho' be it said that they roll PDG for
> commuter tires with such a layer), and were decent, not great, with tubes;
> without tubes, elevated to Elk Pass (559 X 29, 175 -- !!! -- grams new!)
> levels of felt speed and smoothness -- with 1 fl oz or so of Orange Seal in
sistance. From the
> opposite extreme, my experience adding Mr Tuffys or suchlike liners very
> definitely makes tires feel slower, as in 6" of cold molasses.
>
> What do others with experience of both systems say?
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 6, 2020 at 4:32 PM ted >
>
ubeless are.
Anyway. Congratulations on your great upgrades. Sounds wonderful.
regards
Ted
p.s. If you want to go crazy on the weight saving, get a Ti frame Brooks,
Rivet, or Berthoud saddle and a 1/3 Ti duraAce cassette.
On Saturday, June 6, 2020 at 9:42:36 AM UTC-7, Roberta wrote:
>
> In April 2017,
Hang in there. They seem to go in spurts, so nothing now definitely doesn't
mean never.
I speculate that being hard to replace hinders folks inclination to decide
to sell theirs. But when they see one offered, they think maybe I should
sell mine too.
On Sunday, May 31, 2020 at 9:36:06 AM
Diverging further you might look into a soma wolverine
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I think "best" size is kinda dependent, though I'm not sure on what.
I'm about 5' 9" with a 84 or 85 pbh.
Before RBW did the SimpleOne, Kevin refused to sell me a sub 56 Quickbeam
(they only had smaller frames left) saying that would be too small and that
he might rather put me on a 58.
When
Andrew,
Where are you located?
I'm in the SF bay area (abt 20mi south of RBW) and have a seriously
underutilized 56 Simple One that I commuted on before I retired.
If you are anywhere near here maybe I should consider moving on.
regards
Ted Kelly
On Friday, May 29, 2020 at 6:46:46 AM UTC-7
not that bad to do yourself as the
change should be small enough to avoid altering the cables and housing.
Probably won't even need to undo the brake or shift cables.
ted.
On Sunday, May 24, 2020 at 9:35:19 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> Ha! I know I’m disa
Oops, and re bar weight, buy the al ones, they will be lighter and since you
didn’t weigh your new wheels I’m guessing the particular numbers aren’t that
important to you. Hey you’ll “know” you made your bike lighter
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I doubt the narrower bars would make the stem feel different, and if it did I’d
bet on it seeming shorter which could be easily tweaked with a 60 stem
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c)
before you took everything to the shop. We're gonna want to know exactly
how many grams (or ounces) you've shaved off your ride. Similarly we (or
perhaps just I) want to know how many teeth your small chain ring and
largest cog have before and after.
ted
whos fondness for numbers approa
This frame is gone, picked up today by the first person to express interest.
Thanks to everybody who expressed interest.
On Monday, May 18, 2020 at 12:21:42 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:
>
> I'd like to find a new home for this frame. Its too small for me to ever
> use again, and its been in t
I'd like to find a new home for this frame. Its too small for me to ever
use again, and its been in the garage for years now. I'm hoping that since
Nobilette builds some frames for RBW these days offering it here won't be
too far off topic.
What it is:
This is a Mark Nobilette built frame I
Re: association of tubulars with "roadies"
I guess really the association should be with "racers" though I think some
folks use of the term "roadie" implies a MCFRB riding racer wana be. Back
in the day high performance meant tubulars, but mostly only racers or racer
wana bees bothered with
So Bill, are those latex tubbed, and are you cutting em open and patching when
you get flats?
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Yes but roadies are fools. The best moderate width tires give a nice ride but
I’ve never ridden a 23mm clincher that rides near as well as a good hand made
racing sew up. Never got a pinch flat on a sew up either.
I think the European pros still race on tubulars. Of course their employers pay
Ahh, slush. Grew up with it, don’t miss it.
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Even pre covid I noticed that drivers accustomed to driving slower than they
would like due to traffic seem to drive as possible. Absent traffic the foot
goes to the floor.
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When faced with this situation I’ve gone with mounting on the left side. This
lights up more pavement since one rides on the right side of the lane. However
mounting on the right would give shadow free illumination of the road edge, so
you might prefer that.
This is why I’m so disappointed they
Shouldn’t that emoji have a one finger salute?
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er, and easier than with a
> tube. To me that's a win for my customers. Add in the lighter weight,
> lower tire pressures and ability to run softer tubes, and you have a recipe
> for a good idea.
>
> By the way, soapy water spraying around is the only time my shop gets such
>
skewer damaged, or is this just another
idiosyncrasy of a very idiosyncratic bicycle?
Regards
Ted S
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Someone I won't name, because he should be gratefully honored for his
contributions and definitely never hectored about such trivia, wrote he
could think of at least 11 steps to mounting a tube in a tire off the top
of his head.
I only think of 10.
Put a layer of rim tape on the rim
Put
Careful Biil. Don't be accused of inciting murder, cause I'll wager that
owner is in the "pry it from my cold dead hands" department..
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Sorry, I guess I'm just too dense to grasp implicit assumptions in 160 post
threads that wander about a bit. Some of the recent posts have an ok boomer
feel with a side of righteous certainty about the absolute superiority of
tubeless over tubes the denial of which could only be explained by
"But the reality is tubeless has weight and tire advantages that are
noticeable on a ride, ..."
I keep reading assertions like this, but I don't see how its true.
Re weight:
I have two 650b bikes. One is tubeless the other has tubes. The tubes I use
are 108gr (aka 3.8oz) schwalbe SV14
My slightly dissenting take:
Listening to folks explain how easy setting up tubeless tires is reminds me
of when I used to tell folks gluing on tubular racing tires was no big deal.
Though I never use a higher pressure to avoid pinch flats, I never get
them. I mean in the last 2 decades I
On any corner with the slightest chance of a pedal strike I’m either pedaling
or have the outside foot down. Pedals at 3 and 9 is strictly for going straight
(or sometimes through wide sweeping turns on fast descents).
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"My “local hardware store” is a totally indifferent Home Depot ..."
Ouch that's rough. There are at least two hardware stores in my town that
have a nice selection of metric stainless steel hardware. Nylon spacers too.
On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 7:00:09 PM UTC-7, Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
Get an instagram account??
Get off my lawn!
Or some such
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Joyce, you’ve likely thought of this but just in case ...
My sister puts her large Clem l on her hitch rack one end at a time. That way
she never lifts the full weight of the bike at once. Still awkward, but
somewhat more manageable.
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Masmojo, I am confused. What is not the case with a Clem?
On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 6:38:59 PM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>
> Ted, you are right both can be achieved (usually at high cost) if that is
> the goal, that's just not the case with a Clem.
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Masmojo wrote:
"it's designed around being a comfortable, smooth, stable ride & in that
context light weight is sort of antithema."
I'm not sure what antihema means but I think the implication is that light
weight is somehow at odds with a comfortable, smooth, stable ride.
I don't think that
e else tell
you you are wrong.
Next up, the search for just the perfect gearing/drive train (yet another
rabbit hole).
On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 3:28:43 PM UTC-7, Roberta wrote:
>
> On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 12:42:07 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
> > For true weight weeniedom you
I have a Hilsen badged Saluki (SA### stamped bottom bracket). Even sized pre
MIT Hilsens are Saluki in disguise. But the larger sized Saluki were lost in
the consolidation. Largest 650b Hilsen is a 58cm.
I think most Saluki were side pull and the canti ones are kinda rare.
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On the other hand 2” (51mm) tires seem like overkill for a light rider on
anything resembling a road or mup. Going to 1.75” (45mm) seems like a good call
for non Clydesdale folks not bombing over ruts and boulders. Heck 1.5” (38mm)
would probably work fine, even if they might look a bit lost in
For true weight weeniedom you need to get out a kitchen scale and weigh the bag
and saddles. I suspect leaving off the bag saves more weight than swapping to a
no spring saddle.
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Just buy some thick soled shoes (e.g. keen sandals).
Cause you neeed it.
Yesss you dooo
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And red spoke nipples too
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Son wide flange? Wide flange -> shorter axel stubs-> better aesthetics.
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re: The thing with tubeless is that IF I get a flat I feel like it’s gonna
be more trouble (maybe due to inexperience. )
I had similar concerns. After a bit of googling i've opted for carrying a
repair kit with: one tube, two tire levers, a few tire plugs, and a plug
tool.
To be more ready
I had a similar experience. I was commuting on my simple one with battery
lights and thought that was just fine. I saw a pair of used single speed
wheels with a son hub for sale on the list here and decided to give the
dynamo thing a try. I found I appreciated the set it and forget it nature
Congratulations, way to go.
Now, quick before you forget how frustrating that was, order yourself a nice
collapsible free standing work stand.
It should last you a lifetime, and will prove well worth the $$. Honest, a
decade from now you will be so glad you did.
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with an integrated gauge,
buy one immediately. They last a long time and are way worth it.
regards
ted
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 4:46:18 PM UTC-7, Roberta wrote:
>
> *Joe and Franklin*--Is the compressor for only originally seating the
> tire, or is it for ongoing pumping in air?
No argument, though how do you feel about Romance languages where everything is
gendered?
With boats I’d say it’s just cultural tradition dating way back, and any
rationalization would likely seem sexist.
Alls I’m saying is I think the notion that giving a conveyance a female name
makes it ill
I’ve long thought it odd that boats are female but bikes aren’t.
Have you ever known a guy who wouldn’t own a boat with female name?
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o is probably a good idea.
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 8:26:38 AM UTC-7, Roberta wrote:
>
> James, I guess I listen too. :) I just imagine tubeless goo all over
> the place if it leaks. Let's talk. Also, black sidewalls, not tan.
>
> Roberta
>
>
> On Wednesday, A
Which should be motivating you to do that experiment.
Ride your bike, weigh it, strip off the bags, racks, fenders, kick stand,
etc., weigh it again, and ride it again.
Note how many lbs you removed and how different (or similar) the striped
bike is to the original configuration.
On Wednesday,
James wrote "If I could convince her to go tubeless, we'd save another 200+
grams... "
James would you mind breaking that down, and detailing what you are
including in each alternative?
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 6:57:03 AM UTC-7, James / Analog Cycles
wrote:
>
> The wheels we're
I think there was only one batch of 200mm bullmoose bars, with all the others
being 150mm. I suspect they are rare and am glad to have one. Similarly I’m
glad I snagged a chocomoose before they were all gone (apparently for good).
As others have observed elsewhere, if rbw has something you want
Looks to me like you got the stand over from the 53 row.
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Aren't cycle cross tires (uci sanctioned anyway) restricted to something
like 33 or 35mm?
I think I've read that pro mtn bikers also use tubulars, though I've never
seen em for sale. Perhaps they exist but are not generally available.
Back in the early 90's when I was still riding sew ups (got
As one who is prone to arguing that shaving a few lbs off a bike won’t make you
all that much faster up a hill, let me clarify that I’m all in favor of making
your bike light enough to pick up easily. Particularly if you have to lift it
frequently.
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Joe,
Ibid, and god bless. Have a great ride.
On Monday, March 30, 2020 at 12:45:29 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Hey Ted,
>
> We could argue about this for days and drive everybody crazy, but we're
> probably all a little crazy from the coronavirus lockdown already s
tion model (as is your case). But hey
even just wanting those custom lugs, that head badge, and "Rivendell" on
the down tube could be reason enough.
I look foreword to seeing photos of your new custom soon.
Ted, my cycling left "need" behind long ago, Kelly
Alameda County CA.
O
I completely agree that there are a host of good reasons to get a RBW
custom, including "i want thinner tubes cause it's lighter and I just like
knowing that my bike is a bit lighter and not unnecessarily stout".
On Monday, March 30, 2020 at 11:39:02 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Also, I
discerning than the average rider, but I regularly go on
group rides where everybody else is on MCFRBs and I'm on a 19, 21, or 24 lb
bike and I find what my numbers suggest quite plausible.
On Monday, March 30, 2020 at 11:20:37 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ted, it's a matter of stiffness an
ally different than her Clem L, and the Betty didn't provide it,
> I'm not at all certain a Cheviot will, even with fancy tires and red paint.
>
> On Sunday, March 29, 2020 at 2:34:49 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>>
>> Leah,
>>
>> I encourage you to try and avoid getting
Leah,
I encourage you to try and avoid getting wrapped up in frame weight worries.
Though I'm not immune to bouts of weight weeniesm (I've got a sub 19lb
black mountain and my AHH is under 21lbs) I think bike weight is at best a
third order effect, and frame weight is only part of total bike
My 700x35 shod 57 FJsr feels light plush and zippy.
My 650x38 shod 56 toyo AHH also feels light plush and zippy.
I suspect we tend to make too much of wheel size.
That said, aesthetically I really like the proportions on my AHH and if the
wheels were 700c and all else equal the head tube would
Decades ago when top tubes were horizontal and wheels were either 27” or 700c,
going by seat tube length sizing worked. These days not so much. It only lets
you figure out if you can get the seat to the height you want and how long a
post you will need.
I think the larger two sizes of Clem Ls
Jim has already given you all anybody really needs. But I’ll add a few
thoughts/suggestions anyway.
If you are going to obsess over gear charts do measure the actual
radius/circumference or your wheel inflated to the pressure you ride with you
on the bike.
When making changes to a bike you are
Well it’d be cheep and easy to give it a try and see if it works well for you.
If your concerned abut chain dropping you could use an fd as a chain guide.
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I think it is more incumbent on the rest of us to evaluate dp’s reliability as
a source for such guidance than it is for him to self censor his views.
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When I was fairly young (pre teen I’m pretty sure) I took a judo class at the
ymca. The first thing they focused on was “learning to fall”. Of course I
can’t be sure but I suspect that that early training is part of the reason I’ve
been lucky enough to get through several “unplanned get offs”
I have used trainers in the past. The bored to tears thing was a real problem.
I listened to music. Some folks watch videos. These days there is also zwift
which gives a virtual group riding game like aspect to the endeavor.
Aside from boredom, riding trainers also can get painful as folks tend
Broke my wrist in mid December. Surgery, plates, 'external fixators', and some
hydromorphone.
Hit buckled pavement by a bus stop, caused by heavy buses coming and going over
the years.
Off the bike since then. Jst about ready to start commuting again.
I was riding an 88 MB-2 with 2.3" tires
Over the 50 some years I’ve been riding I’ve “crashed” numerous times. But
rather than relate tales of those I’d like to sing the praises of bump and
touch drills. I encountered these when riding with a racing focused club but
I’d hope other types of clubs or clinics do such things. Im no great
using a spacer (riv sells nice ones though they are currently out of stock) and
a longer bolt allows the rack strut to clear the fork blade without needing to
go flush along the fork end (aka drop out) between the qr axel and the end of
the fork blade. We’re you to do that you would likely find
Rotate the qr so it’s not over the mounting bolt, get a longer bolt and a
spacer so the rack mount stay can clear the fork blade.
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Front fenders are much more problematic than rear ones. A friend of mine
recently picked up a stick with her front tire which lodged under her front
fender. She is now recovering from a broken arm and can’t ride (except on an
indoor trainer). I once had a rear fender accordion up against the
Bill, did your red lugged stem have nitto’s usual dull bright finish to begin
with? Also who painted it?
Thnks
Ted
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Normally there are a pair of wires that plug into the dyno hub which must be
disconnected when removing the front wheel. With the right hub and fork ends
the connection is made through the surfaces of the fork ends.
Check the Rene Herse web site
Your mental Philip.
I've got two ss bikes I like a lot, but I'd not take either of em to that
hill. I prefer having access to a 1-1 (e.g. 28t ring with 28t cog) gear on
that climb.
On Thursday, January 16, 2020 at 7:30:25 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> Oh yeah, I knew I was boned when I
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