VACList DigestVACList-Digest Friday, August 9, 2002 Issue 389
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Tempurpedic possibilities
2. window treatments
3. Hitch height (& bike cariers)
4. Epoxy and Vulcem
5. Rot-git
6. Rolite Prepolish vs Nuvite G6
7. 1978 Argosy Umbilical Cord Wiring Advice
8. Re:
9. Seized Tongue Jack
10. Re: Seized Tongue Jack
11. Rodents?
12. wandering van
13. Re: Seized Tongue Jack
14. Re: wandering van
15. Re: Hitch height (& bike cariers)
16. Re: wandering van
17. Re: Seized Tongue Jack
18. Re: Window treatments
19. '56 Safari Floor Repair
20. Re: '56 Safari Floor Repair
21. Re: Hitch height (& bike cariers)
22. window treatments
23. Re: '56 Safari Floor Repair
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Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 19:38:55 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tempurpedic possibilities
On Wed, 7 Aug 2002 01:48:13 -0700, Stan Nicholson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>The Novaform is available on Costco's website - just search for
>"Novaform". There's a choice of sizes, all at $149. Just don't buy
>the last one quite yet . . .
I realize that none of us here are members of the President's Club of Camper's
World and receive the magazine entitled _RV View_.
BUT, in case I have missed someone here, go to page 36 of the latest, August
issue, and you will see that you can order Visco-elastic toppers in "multiple
sizes to fit almost any RV mattress"
It is called PILLOW TOP, price is $80.99-98.99 with $15.50 shipping.
That is rather less than Costco and then, not everyone has a Costco in their
communities.
fwiw
chas
--
Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T '76 Sovereign
www.schuetzen.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 20:21:11 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: window treatments
Jim wrote:
> Bob:
>> The Airstream dealers sell a system that uses a plastic piece to provide a
>> pin on the end of the bottom of the blind and a piece that goes on the
> wall
>> to hold the bottom of the blind against the wall... works fine... I have
>> the blinds on our unit...
>>
>> Jim
I just looked in the Smith and Noble Windoware catolog (800) 248-8888 and
they will provide hold-down clips as a free option if you buy the blinds
from them. Maybe other places have these clips as well.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 20:35:34 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Hitch height (& bike cariers)
Andy wrote:
>
> Anything mounted on the back end of most older Airstream trailers, bikes
> included, "WILL LEAD TO REAR END SEPARATION." Not maybe, but guaranteed.
I was planning to put on a heavier bumper with a spare tire carrier. The
tire alone would probably add more than the weight of a couple bikes. I've
seen pictures of one or two other small trailers with spares on the rear. I
even read somewhere that such a set-up required a reinforced bumper. Is
this a bad idea? What exactly is "rear end seperation"?
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 20:58:40 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Epoxy and Vulcem
Jill wrote:
>
> Okay, I finally have to ask, what in the world is
> Vulkem and where do I find it? I'm sure I will
> need it because my airstream needs EVERY thing.
I've been using vulkem quite a bit lately and agree that it is fabulous
stuff. I have a couple of suggestions that worked for me:
1) It seems to be quite a bit harder to get it where you want it and only
where you want it than regular household caulk. My technique around the
house involves the use of my index finger and paper towels to correct
mistakes. This is less satisfactory with vulkem and results in a grey index
finger for days. I found that the syringes sold by Airstream Dreams really
helped to keep the stuff where I wanted it. (If you plug the syringe with
the pin from an Olympic rivet the vulcem in the syringe keeps very well.)
2) Have a rag and some mineral spirits handy to clean up any mistakes or
the rivet heads if you are using it with Olympic rivets as suggested by
Andy.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:32:51 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Rot-git
I think that is the name....I have been away from the list for awhile but
the fulcrum issue reminded me that I need to patch a couple of small areas
of wood rot on my 68 near the door (less than 4 inches square) before I lay
the carpet. Any better products out there or suggestions for small patches?
The marine people swear by it but I have never used it.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 21:54:07 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Rolite Prepolish vs Nuvite G6
Thought this would be of general interest:
I have been working on the coarsest round of polishing on the Bambi.
Initially I bought the whole lineup of Rolite products. The Pre-polish was
$39.95 plus shipping for two pounds. As I got going I ran into pitting,
scratches and grey areas and was working very hard to get some panels to
look good. I had read about the Nuvite products and their G6 product
sounded very aggressive so I bought a pound of it. At $48.75 per pound
including shipping it was expensive but I was hoping it would reduce my
workload proportionately. Long story short these are both fine products
that cut the regular oxidation but both my son and I preferred the Rolite
pre-polish for the really tough stuff. The particles in the G-6 are
designed to become less abrasive as you polish. Our sense was that this was
happening too quickly on the tough areas. Repeated polishing of the bad
areas always seemed to get farther with the Rolite. The advantage of the
G-6 was that the swirls are less apparent. They say some people go directly
from G-6 to their final polish.
As background: Our trailer had not been polished for a long long time. It
had no clear coat. I was compounding with a Makita 7" polisher at 1500 rpm.
(model 9227C - very powerful nice tool. I really appreciated the D shaped
handle. Unfortunately it comes with a velco pad so you have to buy the bolt
on pad, nut and wrench to use it with the bolt on bonnets.)
Bonnets were from Lake Country Manufacturing. (Very tough and highly
satisfactory)
This is very hard work but it is like bringing the trailer back from the
dead. Very satisfying.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 23:16:50 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1978 Argosy Umbilical Cord Wiring Advice
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Greetings All!
=20
Thanks to all who responded to my request for information regarding
wiring color codes for the Argosy umbilical cord. The connector did
indeed need to be rewired before I could tow the trailer home - - the
backup lights were the only operational lights when first plugged in. I
am not fond of doing electrical wiring, but with the assistance of
listees, I was able to get the wiring connected in very short order - -
your assistance was greatly appreciated.
=20
I must admit that I was totally amazed at how well this little gem
towed. The hitch head was much too high, but the trailer still tracked
straight and never exhibited any tendency to sway over 220 miles that
included a fair amount of heavy truck traffic and some gusty cross winds
- - this was without using any sway control and without equalizer bars.
The Suburban didn=92t even seem to know the trailer was there - - of
course the trailer was only about =BC of the Suburban=92s trailer tow =
limit
of 10,000 pounds.
=20
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
=20
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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
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style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Thanks to all who responded to my request for =
information
regarding wiring color codes for the Argosy umbilical cord. <span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>=A0</span>The connector did indeed need to be =
rewired
before I could tow the trailer home - - the backup lights were the only =
operational
lights when first plugged in.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>=A0 =
</span>I am not
fond of doing electrical wiring, but with the assistance of <span =
class=3DSpellE>listees</span>,
I was able to get the wiring connected in very short order - - your =
assistance
was greatly appreciated.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>I must admit that I was totally amazed at how well =
this
little gem towed.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>=A0 </span>The hitch =
head was
much too high, but the trailer still tracked straight and never =
exhibited any
tendency to sway over 220 miles that included a fair amount of heavy =
truck
traffic and some gusty cross winds - - this was without using any sway =
control
and without equalizer bars. <span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>=A0</span>The Suburban
didn’t even seem to know the trailer was there - - of course the =
trailer
was only about =BC of the <span class=3DSpellE>Suburban’s</span> =
trailer tow
limit of 10,000 pounds.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><st1:PersonName><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>Kevin D. =
Allen</span></font></st1:PersonName><span
style=3D'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 =
Suburban<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>1978 Argosy Minuet<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar =
in-training)<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>WBCCI/VAC #6359<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 21:25:38 -0700
From: "Dave Huffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
I second Scott's assertion. Also haven't heard any reasons why bikes
wouldn't mount on the back of the trailer. Bob Kiger
http://cruiserbob.com
> ------------------------------
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
> Anything mounted on the back end of most older Airstream trailers, bikes
> included, "WILL LEAD TO REAR END SEPARATION." Not maybe, but guaranteed.
> Andy
> ------------------------------
> From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
> Well that settles that. I recommend a Yakima or Thule Roof Rack to avoid
> turning radius issues and short tongue length. Bob Kiger
http://cruiserbob.com
> ------------------------------
For all the above reasons plus my bikes are not rusty Schwinn cruisers --
have a habit of being borrowed. Roof on Land Cruiser is way up there and
not good for my back. I have a standard Hollywood 2 bike rack which hangs
from the back -- height can be adjusted to be way up. Probably my best bet,
but I'm thinking. Front end is not an option for me.
Huff
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 01:25:13 -0500
From: Shawn Clarry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Seized Tongue Jack
The tongue jack on my '63 Safari seems to be seized, it doesn't want to move
up or down and has almost a full turn of play in the handle.
Can this be taken apart and fixed or should I be looking for a replacement
unit?
As always, thanks in advance!
Shawn
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 05:29:01 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Seized Tongue Jack
Replace it. If your rich this month get an electric one, if poor get the
hand crank model. Electric is sure nice....
On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Shawn Clarry wrote:
> The tongue jack on my '63 Safari seems to be seized, it doesn't want to move
> up or down and has almost a full turn of play in the handle.
>
> Can this be taken apart and fixed or should I be looking for a replacement
> unit?
>
> As always, thanks in advance!
>
> Shawn
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, (505) 524-3303 -
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 09:29:38 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Rodents?
In the latest "Blue Beret", in the B-Van column, they say that you can use
"Blood Meal" (supposedly a common fertilizer) to keep rodents away from
your trailer. They say to put the stuff in plastic cups that have holes
punched in the lid, and that you should place these cups in various places
around your trailer.
Has anyone actually tried this?
If so, does it work?
Does the Blood Meal have any odor?
Any comments are welcome.
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:31:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: wandering van
I thought I'd post this in case someone else has this
problem and doesn't know it.
I have been towing for some months now with my E250
extended van. I have been pleased with the handling.
I did have some funny tire wear up front, though. The
tires were wearing in the middle. Reducing tire
pressure didn't seem to help.
The guy at the tire store said I needed the front end
aligned. This seemed confusing, but what the heck? I
parted with $30 and figured it couldn't hurt.
Now the van is like a balloon in the breeze. The
slightest wind requires a course correction, and it is
NO FUN to tow! I checked the toe-in and it seems to
be a little less than 1/8" toe-out. I'm pretty sure
this is incorrect, although my measurements may be
inaccurate. I will be looking into this, and will
post again when the situation is satisfactorily
resolved.
Anyway, the point I wanted to share is this: if you
have terrible handling, be sure to check the alignment
AND be sure you can trust the shop where it's done.
You may have a perfectly good tow vehicle that has
been messed up by a bad front end job.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
White knuckles
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:42:13 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Seized Tongue Jack
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Squirt lots of WD-40 or Liquid Wrench inside the jack from around the
shaft where it enters the top housing until it runs out the bottom.
After it frees up, annual lubing with spray lithium grease will keep it
smooth running.
Replacing isn't too simple. Atwood has increased the diameter of the
housing slightly, so you have to enlarge the hole in the tongue, and
they've cheapened the handle by making it out of thin steel with a
plastic handle. UV will destroy the handle within 5 years I bet. I
transferred my old handle to the body on the new jack I installed on
the Flying Cloud (old jack post was bent). I'll add the images to the
website as a "how to" I guess - probably within the next few weeks.
RJ
'57 Flying Cloud
'65 Caravel
VintageAirstream.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 11:25 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Seized Tongue Jack
>
>
> The tongue jack on my '63 Safari seems to be seized, it
> doesn't want to move
> up or down and has almost a full turn of play in the handle.
>
> Can this be taken apart and fixed or should I be looking for
> a replacement
> unit?
>
> As always, thanks in advance!
> Shawn
--openmail-part-13351d89-00000001--
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 09:39:39 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: wandering van
On Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:31:12 -0700 (PDT), jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>I have been towing for some months now with my E250
>extended van. I have been pleased with the handling.
>I did have some funny tire wear up front, though. The
>tires were wearing in the middle. Reducing tire
>pressure didn't seem to help.
wear in the middle of the tread is an indicator of over inflation.
alinement problems are indicated by wear on the edges of the tread.
your problem is one of the reasons that I do not like to hang trailers on
extended vans, I like the bumper to be as close to the rear axle as possible.
I have a feeling that you have too much tongue weight on the truck and that is
lifting weight off the front. with the extended rear, you have a long lever to
change the front axle to rear axle weight ratios.
might look at weighing your axles and trying to equalize them while cinched up.
fwiw
chas
--
Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T '76 Sovereign
www.schuetzen.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 10:51:12 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hitch height (& bike cariers)
Dick. Rear end separation is referred to when the frame separates from the
shell. Adding a heavier bumper or beefing up the frame will "not" stop the
separation.
What really happens is the frame pulls away from the shell allowing water to
get to the plywood floor. In time, that wood rots, further adding to the
separation.
If you want to take the rear end apart and modify it to do want your talking
about is ok. However, when someone has done it before, and therefore knows
all the requirements, it will take about 16 to 20 hours to do it. Certainly
not the task I would suggest for the typical owner.
Also keep in mind that whatever additional weight you add to the rear end has
a negative effect on the tongue weight. If enough rear end weight is added,
it can render the trailer uncontrollable. In that case moving the axle or
axles rearward several inches would solve that problem.
The long and short of it is, "DON'T."
I am not trying to scare you, but facts are facts. Altering the original
Airstream design is something we do, everyday. But, in order to do so, we
must take many more steps beyond what seems ok. In doing so, we do move
axles, add additional axles, beef up the frame, etc. We have on the road a 31
foot trailer, with 3 axles, that grosses over 12,000 pounds, with not a
problem one. It just takes time, and, a lot of money. Presently we are
working with someone to create a triple axle 31 foot Airstream trailer, that
will gross out at about 14,000 pounds, with a water tank system that will
carry 200 gallons and a gray tank that will hold right at 180 gallons, all
without changing the weight and balance, along with many other very special
components.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 09:06:11 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: wandering van
Before belted tires (like belted bias and radials) tire wear in the
middle was from over inflation. The belts prevent the barrel shape that
caused that wear from occurring. More likely that wear pattern is a
function of the tires. On belted tires sometimes the belt isn't as wide
as the tread and excess pressure causes wear on both edges. So wear in
the middle could come from low tire pressure. The factory tire pressure
suggestions tend to be on the low side to give a better ride at the cost
of handling (rollovers) and gas mileage. I run my truck tires at the
maximum rated pressure (for a mpg or two increase) and they wear
straight across. The ride can be a little harsh on a cracked road, but
its a TRUCK, not a softly sprung Buick.
Toe out on a rear drive vehicle is not at all good. My suspicion is that
the extended van was too large for the alignment machine and the shop
guessed.
You might need to tighten up the load equalizer bars to transfer more
weight to the front wheels of the van.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 09:07:14 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Seized Tongue Jack
You would have far better results getting the screw loosened with Kroil
or PB Blaster than with WD-40 (Water Displacer # 40) or Liquid Wrench.
However with nearly a turn of backlash on the thread that is an
indication the nut is about worn to strip its threads. I think that part
can be replaced, but first you have to make it move, raise the tongue
high with some other jack (and hold it with a solid support so it
doesn't fall) and crank the jack all the way.
Replacement, even with modifications to the hole in the tongue may be
most practical.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 02 11:08:45 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Window treatments
>The front and back walls are straight vertical so there is no problem with
>mini-blinds on those windows. But the side of the coach has such a radical
>curve that a wooden channel or something is needed to keep the blinds
>against the curved wall. Before I go spending a lot of time and money
>building such channels I wondered if anyone had an off the shelf solution to
>this problem?
=============
We added aluminum, 1/2' ven. blinds from Home Depot. The blinds have
small plastic holders that can be attached to wall to hold clips on
bottom of blind . This holds blind into the wall at bottom. Works out
good so check them out although the windows are rather small on the '56
so they hung with out much vertical sad.
To get some curtain effect around windows you might check out my web
site and the treatment around our windows. I acquired some thin card
board type material from an upholstery shop to which we glued (used
fabric glue) decorative fabic and then pop riveted the board material to
the trailer wall. What you see on ours is a ruffled trim material used
for edging for quilts but any kind of material could be used. If you
plan it right you can place rivets under the fabric by pulling up a
fabric a bit and then regluing after rivet is set. Initially used two
sided carpet tape to mount the decorative strips but found it tended to
come unstuck from heat build up when rig was parked so added the pop
rivets.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 17:44:06 +0000
From: "Steve Lewis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: '56 Safari Floor Repair
Hi all,
I've been lurking and learning since October when I bought a great '56
Safari from the guy who wrote and directed the "Airstreamers: An American
Family" video. Nice guy. (Threw in a video with the trailer)
I'm at the beginnings of a complete refurbish. The orig stove/oven,
Panel-Ray furnace and electric/ice-box Kelvenator fridge are in stellar
condition, so I'll clean 'em and use 'em. Most of the cabinets are in
refinishable condition, too. I plan on keeping our future retirement home as
original looking as possible but will add a few hidden conveniences as time
and the checking account allow: air conditioner under the dinette, microwave
hidden somewhere, updated plumbing with black & grey tanks, etc., updated
wiring to handle updated stuff (hairdryer for the Mrs., DVD player for rainy
days...). I have a professional painter ready to spray new Zolatone, but
first...
I've fixed all leaks (I hope!) and am now ready to repair the rotted floor.
It's real bad in the front and rear and spoungey by the door. I've removed a
couple of the inside panels and can see what lies ahead of me.
<heavy sigh>
I've read floor rot horror stories and am expecting a battle, but am
wondering:
1) This floor repair epoxy stuff... just how good is it? And is my floor
just too trashed to use it?
2) Is the plywood 3/4" or 5/8" or does it really matter? (I know
marine-grade exterior plywood is a must!)
3) What should I use as spacers to prevent the shell from sagging when I
pull a floor section out? (Plan on making some out of plywood, but is there
a better solution?)
4) Any tips? I'm reasonably mechanical and have decent tools but I'm new to
trailer stuff and will be doing most of the work alone or under the critical
eye of my all-knowing neighbors. (For my kid's sake, I don't want to look
too dumb!)
Thanks in advance for any advice. I'll probably be an expert when it's all
finished, but if there's a way not to learn everything the hard way, I'll
take it!
Steve Lewis
WBCCI #9943 (as of June)
'56 Safari
Cool video to fight discouragement
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------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 15:08:44 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '56 Safari Floor Repair
Steve
With regards to the floor, my 63 Overlander was so bad it was missing chunks
mid-coach and rear. I had to replace sections. I replaced the rear all the
way across for about 24" and a chunk in the kitchen. I used 3/4" pressure
treated (marine was too hard to find in 3/4 for me). One manufacturers 3/4
(or 5/8) may vary in thickness from another. Important to me was matching
thickness as close as possible. I got to within a hair or 2.
When you do the floor you need access to the frame underneath. You need to
remove at least some of the belly pan. If you have to do a section that goes
completely from side to side, you'll have to do it in two smaller pieces as
you cannot insert a full width piece into the channel both sides at a time.
Make all your cuts and patches at the centerpoints of frame members for
rigidity. Keep your old floor as whole as possible to use as a templet for
the "curve" and plumbing cutouts.
I found no problem with the channel compressing and used no spacers.
Good luck, better you than me this time.
Phil Renner
63' Overlander
Guilford, CT
> Hi all,
>
> I've fixed all leaks (I hope!) and am now ready to repair the rotted
floor.
> It's real bad in the front and rear and spoungey by the door. I've removed
a
> couple of the inside panels and can see what lies ahead of me.
> <heavy sigh>
> I've read floor rot horror stories and am expecting a battle, but am
> wondering:
> 1) This floor repair epoxy stuff... just how good is it? And is my floor
> just too trashed to use it?
> 2) Is the plywood 3/4" or 5/8" or does it really matter? (I know
> marine-grade exterior plywood is a must!)
> 3) What should I use as spacers to prevent the shell from sagging when I
> pull a floor section out? (Plan on making some out of plywood, but is
there
> a better solution?)
> 4) Any tips? I'm reasonably mechanical and have decent tools but I'm new
to
> trailer stuff and will be doing most of the work alone or under the
critical
> eye of my all-knowing neighbors. (For my kid's sake, I don't want to look
> too dumb!)
>
> Steve Lewis
> WBCCI #9943 (as of June)
> '56 Safari
> Cool video to fight discouragement
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:03:00 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch height (& bike cariers)
Here's another way that I have used successfully in the past. Lay down a
furniture pad on your front couch and then lean the two bikes, criss crossed
against the pad and bungee down.
This interior storage provides very good weight distribution and security
and is relatively easy to load.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 16:20:39 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: window treatments
Thanks for the tip on blind clips. I am now convinced that they are the way
to go to keep miniblinds in place in my coach.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
From: "Dick and Kris Parins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] window treatments>
> Jim wrote:
>
> > Bob:
> >> The Airstream dealers sell a system that uses a plastic piece to
provide a
> >> pin on the end of the bottom of the blind and a piece that goes on the
> > wall
> >> to hold the bottom of the blind against the wall... works fine... I
have
> >> the blinds on our unit...
> >>
> >> Jim
>
> I just looked in the Smith and Noble Windoware catolog (800) 248-8888 and
> they will provide hold-down clips as a free option if you buy the blinds
> from them. Maybe other places have these clips as well.
>
> Dick
> '62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 19:58:08 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '56 Safari Floor Repair
Hi Steve,
I have a lot of experience replacing rotted or missing floor, especially
along the rear as sandwiched between the cross frame and the monocoque. I
had to drive plywood into the space between the monocoque and a new cross
frame. After removing the old rivets and bolts, I reinstalled the fasteners
to bind the monocoque to the frame.
With regard to penetrating epoxy, the floor must be sound for the process to
be effective. By sound, I mean that the structure is still there. I
drilled many holes into the semi rotted area and then applied the
penetrating epoxy. It must be very fluid and slow setting to penetrate. I
doubten that the penetration would pass between the monocoque and the frame.
It's a judgement call about where you can use it.
The door area usually involves "holes" and a much larger area of semi rotted
floor. I opted to replace large sections, usually centering one edge of the
floor replacement on the frame rail and the out rigger. Being sure to
replace the bolts holding the monocoque to the out riggers and the
replacement floor. My activities required that I have access to both the
upper and under floor. In my opinion, it's impossible to rebuild the floor
between the monocoque and the outriggers without removing the belly pan.
Some areas require a scab plywood under sound wood to and using glue and
lots of zip screws to hold the stuff together.
I cut over frame rails with a circular saw set just above the metal. Other
areas, I used a Rotozip bit to cut close to the monocoque and to clean up
corners. To get out under the monocoque, I used drill bits and prayed.
Removing deteriorated screws/bolts required that about 6 inches of the inner
skin be removed. I opted to remove this band around the entire interior. I
used a 1-1/2 backing strip to reuse the the cut out. However, if I were to
do this again, I'd buy the aluminum tall enough to cover the cut out area.
Simpler and stronger.
IMHO, there are no quick fixes to floor rot problems. Especially in an
Airstream due to the construction and the materials. I doubt that Airsteam
used marine plywood; rather just plain exterior plywood. My '69 Safari used
3/4 inch plywood; however, I've heard rumors that 5/8 was used in other
units. Most exterior 3/4 inch is realy 23/32 or something like that and
it's not quite 3/4. Makes replacement challanging and difficult.
Both my Argosy and Safari previous owners failed to seal the lower trim
strip to prevent water from flooding the belly pan. Such a simple
maintenance step would have protected most units for restoration. Not so
with my Argosy as the comode was the main culprit as the leakage wasn't
obvious until considerable damage was done.
Just be warned that these are not simple restorations. The take lots of
patience and some skill and inovation to solve the problem at hand.
Good luck,
'69 Safari
'74 Argosy
Joy
------------------------------
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