VACList DigestVACList-Digest Friday, August 2, 2002 Issue 382
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Indelicate Answer
2. 1975 31' Airstream for sale (for a song?)
3. Re:
4. Re: window screens & door gasket for '59
5. Re: Indelicate Answer
6. Replacing Water Tank -
7. Re: Refrigerator Cooling Units
8. Re: Gina ndelicate Answer and more than you want to know
9. Re: Replacing Water Tank -
10. 1971/1972 Airstream Land yacht International Sovereign 31'
11. Re: Indelicate Answer?
12. Re: 1971/1972 Airstream Land yacht International Sovereign 31'
13. Re: 1971/1972 Airstream Land yacht International Sovereign 31'
14. stove solutions
15. Re: 987 6.2 liter Suburban
16. Re: Gina ndelicate Answer and more than you want to know
17. Re: Brake Functioning
18. Re: 987 6.2 liter Suburban
19. Highway Hangouts
20. Anyone have a polisher
21. Re: Replacing Water Tank -
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Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 20:30:36 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer
Chas and Cynthia, according to the ' 68 Owner's Manual, the holding tank
capacity on the Caravel is 12 gal. For the other ' 68 models, it's 17
gallons. Good for a week for the three of us.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "schuetzen - RKBA!" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 15:11
Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer
> Seems to me that the Black Tank on a 68 is supposed to be a 12 gal ???
>
> fwiw
> chas
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 22:08:54 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1975 31' Airstream for sale (for a song?)
Hi All,
For those of you who want their own private supply of every part used in the
manufacture of a 1975 31' Airstream, call Northway Travel Trailers in Malta,
NY at 518.899.2526 and ask for John Buchannan, Service Manager.
This Airstream has been for sale since the Spring; many people have looked
at it; a few have talked with the owner; but no one has purchased it.
It's now almost the Fall season and the owner will soon begin paying a
storage fee to continue leaving it on the dealer's lot.
I'm not a gambling man, but I'd wager August or September will be the time
to rattle this cage again. If you have any interest in a towable (not far,
not fast) Airstream, the time for initiative is almost here. The things
that are wrong with this Airstream are obvious, yet I believe it's
salvagable for someone with the inclination.
I don't know what price the owner wants to get for this Airstream, but I
believe the owner recognizes no one is buying it at his asking price.
If I didn't already have a fleet of Airstreams in my yard, I'd put in an
offer on it. Of course, I'd ask John for an estimated cost for getting it
towable before making my offer. That expense would be built into my offer.
Likewise, if my offer was accepted, I'd ask Northway to prepare it for
towing - or at least the prepare parts that are outside my area of skills.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:46:00 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
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Marc, I also have very aggresive trailer brakes and have had them rebuilt. I
still have the same problem. My brake mechanic told me to use the
Kelsey-Hayes hand brake along with the foot brake. That seems to work a lot
better. D. MacFadden 1974 Soverign.
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0">Marc, I also have very aggresive trailer brakes and have had them rebuilt. I
still have the same problem. My brake mechanic told me to use the Kelsey-Hayes hand
brake&
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Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 23:09:58 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: window screens & door gasket for '59
on 07/29/02 12:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Maurice asked -
>
>> The window screens on my 1959 Overlander have a second screen, a silver
>> reflective screen which is opaque when viewed from outside the coach (during
>> the day). Does anyone know where this material can be obtained?
>>
Maurice,
Most auto parts store sell plastic sheeting called limousine grey - with or
without the reflective feature.
It's messy to install (soap, water and a squeegee) and clumsy to position
correctly, but once installed (carefully because it tears easily), the
sheeting does the job superbly.
Like Sherry said, it's easy to see outside from the inside, but difficult to
see inside from the outside (except after dark with interior lights on).
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:49:08 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer
The printed manuals, testimony, "Mine holds this much", and all other
sources are great GUIDES but if you want to know how much your tanks hold,
the answer is just a five gallon bucket away. Simply take a five gallon
bucket and start pouring water into the toilet until it is full. Mine came
out three gallons different then the manual on my 76 said. I didn't care if
it was 12, 17, 21, or whatever, but rather that I didn't have a dent or leak
that would seriously alter the capacity. Even after your gauge says full,
there is always room for one or two more! The gauges are just guides too.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 20:36:28 -0400
From: "John O'Connor Truitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Replacing Water Tank -
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Thank you all for your help in the past! New question. I have given up
trying to replace the steel water tank and trying to find a plastic
replacement that will fit in the original spot. (1963 Globetrotter - Front
dinnette - tank was under front window under the dinette). I will be going
to a plastic rectangler tank (with a flo pump) under one of the seats of the
dinette. My question if you have done the same - what have you done with
the front fill pipe - what type of conversion is recommended? Or did you rig
the original fill pipe? Ideas - recommendations - what is acceptable among
the purists in the group? (if by chance you have an original steel tank
that's not leaking - that's in your way perhaps we can talk shop via email.
Thank you again.
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D845112900-31072002>Thank =
you all for=20
your help in the past! New question. I have given up trying to =
replace the=20
steel water tank and trying to find a plastic replacement that will fit =
in the=20
original spot. (1963 Globetrotter - Front dinnette - tank was =
under front=20
window under the dinette). I will be going to a plastic rectangler =
tank=20
(with a flo pump) under one of the seats of the dinette. My =
question if=20
you have done the same - what have you done with the front fill pipe - =
what type=20
of conversion is recommended? Or did you rig the original fill pipe? =
Ideas -=20
recommendations - what is acceptable among the purists in the group? (if =
by=20
chance you have an original steel tank that's not leaking - that's in =
your way=20
perhaps we can talk shop via email. Thank you =
again.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D845112900-31072002></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D845112900-31072002></SPAN></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 21:00:00 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Cooling Units
They have website with a dealers list and info:
http://www.mwpcool.com/
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
----------
On Wednesday, July 31, 2002, at 05:41 AM, Terry Tyler wrote:
Hi Mitch,
Here's a follow-up to my earlier reply.
Cooling Units can be purchased from:
Midwest Products
1102 Avenue of Industry
Corning, Iowa 50841
800.331.7698
If you decide to do the job yourself, rattle their cage.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Terry,
>
> I have a "older" replacement refridgerator in my '64 Ambassador, the
> unit
> is in good shape, however, the amonia absorbsion unit is tired, I hope
> I can
> replace the cooling unit and keep the present box etc. I am very
> interested
> in how you went about replacing the cooling unit, where you purchased
> the
> parts etc.
>
> TNX, 73, Mitch Hill - K1FH
> '64 AS Ambassador
> WBCCI #21960
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 01:32:44 -0400
From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Gina ndelicate Answer and more than you want to know
: thanks for all your concern however we use a REAL composter which was
a
: little expensive to begin with.which does on a small scale what
treatment
: plants do.not just a PILE and we use it on flowers and scrubs not
veggie to
: eat. The microbes once composted are not bad for the environment but
GOOD
: for them. let me know if you have any other concerns, I will try to
put them
: at rest, for now you can comfort yourself knowing that you probably
live
: 100's of miles from our "compost"!!!
: Gina
Gina,
So you actually do have a composting toilet then? I know they are made
but last time I checked they were used for isolated cabins and the like.
We do lots of gardening ourselves and make our own compost all the time
with yard waste, grass clippings and Fall leaves. I have a couple of
big tillers one of which is 5 feet wide and hooks up to the PTO on the
back of my John Deere compact tractor. The dirt in our garden is very
rich, smells sweet and the vegetables thrive out there during the
growing season. The weeds grow very easily there as well and always
provides us with something to do there as well.
I meant no offense with what I posted previously but I think you
misunderstood the intent of my response to your earlier mention of
composting waste.
Tom
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 22:51:57 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Replacing Water Tank -
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
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Hi John. I replaced the original 18 gallon aluminum tank in my Trade Wind
with a 33 gallon poly from www.all-rite.com. I modified the original booth
so the new tank would fit. The booth now has three-side seating instead of
the two benches. I managed to save the original fill tube and attached it to
several PVC fittings to get it to fit the new tank. Contact me off list if
you are interested in some photos and/or add'l info.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind
#2699 VAC, TCT
Thank you all for your help in the past! New question. I have given up
trying to replace the steel water tank and trying to find a plastic
replacement that will fit in the original spot. (1963 Globetrotter - Front
dinnette - tank was under front window under the dinette). I will be going
to a plastic rectangler tank (with a flo pump) under one of the seats of the
dinette. My question if you have done the same - what have you done with
the front fill pipe - what type of conversion is recommended? Or did you rig
the original fill pipe? Ideas - recommendations - what is acceptable among
the purists in the group? (if by chance you have an original steel tank
that's not leaking - that's in your way perhaps we can talk shop via email.
Thank you again.
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<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [VAC] Replacing Water Tank -</TITLE>
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Hi John. I replaced the original 18 gallon aluminum tank in my Trade Wind w=
ith a 33 gallon poly from www.all-rite.com. I modified the original booth so=
the new tank would fit. The booth now has three-side seating instead of the=
two benches. I managed to save the original fill tube and attached it to se=
veral PVC fittings to get it to fit the new tank. Contact me off list if you=
are interested in some photos and/or add'l info.<BR>
<BR>
Brad Norgaard<BR>
Phoenix<BR>
'59 Trade Wind<BR>
#2699 VAC, TCT <BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Thank you all for your help in the past! New=
question. I have given up trying to replace the steel water tank and =
trying to find a plastic replacement that will fit in the original spot. &nb=
sp;(1963 Globetrotter - Front dinnette - tank was under front window under t=
he dinette). I will be going to a plastic rectangler tank (with a flo =
pump) under one of the seats of the dinette. My question if you have d=
one the same - what have you done with the front fill pipe - what type of co=
nversion is recommended? Or did you rig the original fill pipe? Ideas - reco=
mmendations - what is acceptable among the purists in the group? (if by chan=
ce you have an original steel tank that's not leaking - that's in your way p=
erhaps we can talk shop via email. Thank you again.<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>
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Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 09:23:42 -0500
From: "Scott and Judy Tanner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1971/1972 Airstream Land yacht International Sovereign 31'
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Hi,
I am new to the asking question even though I have read the list daily =
for a year now.
I purchased this A/S 6 months ago and we are living in it while husband =
on job building power plant. I have never been camping much or lived in =
trailer so this is very different. So far I have survived.
I have the original owners registration papers and the owners manual. =
The question is ---- The serial # plate says it was made in July 1971 =
and owner registration says was September 29, 1971 but the owners manual =
front cover says 1972 A/S Owners Manual. The SN# 131T2J 1232 which was =
sold in Halltown, MO I-44 RV Box 93 and delivered to Owners in Alliance, =
Nebraska. So is it a 1971 or 1972?
Thank you,
Scott & Judy Tanner
E-mail Address(es):
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am new to the asking question =
even though I=20
have read the list daily for a year now.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I purchased this A/S 6 months ago and =
we are living=20
in it while husband on job building power plant. I have never been =
camping much=20
or lived in trailer so this is very different. So far I have=20
survived.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have the original owners registration =
papers and=20
the owners manual. The question is ---- The serial # plate says it =
was=20
made in July 1971 and owner registration says was September 29, 1971 but =
the=20
owners manual front cover says 1972 A/S Owners Manual. The SN# =
131T2J 1232=20
which was sold in Halltown, MO I-44 RV Box 93 and delivered to Owners in =
Alliance, Nebraska. So is it a 1971 or 1972?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thank you,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Scott & Judy Tanner<BR>E-mail=20
Address(es):<BR> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A></FONT></D=
IV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 08:12:13 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer?
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> Couple more questions:
> Our toilet does not have a spray nozzle. I don't know if it
> was removed at some point, or never had one. Is it a good
> idea to install one? Wouldn't letting the water run a little
> longer while flushing do the trick? The bowl seems to come
> clean easily with just flushing.
You would have had a dish washing nozzle, it just connects to the water
line behind the toilet, usually under the fiberglass shell - it varied
by model & year. The use of the spray nozzle is water conservation,
but potable and black tank. It uses 1/2 cup water to accomplish what
takes 4-8 cups with a normal flush - adds up in a hurry.
> Related question - our bowl does not hold water - should it?
> Does the gasket on the valve between the bowl and holding
> tank need to be replaced?
It should hold water. If it doesn't the flapper gasket is dried out or
misaligned. There is not just one easy fix - it can range from
cleaning and reseating the seal, to "re-hydrating" the seal, to
replacing the seal with a generic O-ring - or in some cases true
replacement seals are still available as new old stock, etc. It
requires trips and calls to true RV parts and supply places (read: no
Campers Choice or Camping World). Pretty much true of all vintage
parts.
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
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Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 08:28:59 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1971/1972 Airstream Land yacht International Sovereign 31'
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It's a 1972 model. Looks like it was sold end of Sept - which makes
sense as Airstream does just what the car makers do, start their model
year in the fall. As it took about a month to build an AS in the
'70's, I'm rather surprised at the July build date, but again this is
Airstream - a small custom manufacturing company. Could be it started
life as a 1971 build (there isn't much difference between a '71 & '72),
the owner cancelled, and it came to life later as '72 and they slapped
a 1972 serial # on it as it finished up. Each coach has it's own story
- there are no hard and fast rules. The serial # breaks down as
follows:
I = International trim package
31 = 31 foot Sovereign
T = Twin Bed Layout
2 = 1972 model year
J = Jackson Center Ohio plant
1 = good question, as this can be a 1 or 2
232 = varied by year. Sometimes it means the 232nd Airstream made that
year in that plant, sometimes the 232nd of that model made that year in
that plant, or sometimes the 232nd of that model made in that plant
over a couple of year period from some arbitrary date. In this case,
it looks to be the latter, as the model year was just getting started.
I continue to learn more & more about serial #'s, so this isn't an
exact science yet. Airstream doesn't have real info to release, and
they even have to guess from time to time - I've even been getting
referrals from them to me for people seeking info on older trailers -
talk about the blind leading the naked!
Later,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 7:24 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [VAC] 1971/1972 Airstream Land yacht International Sovereign
31'
Hi,
I am new to the asking question even though I have read the list daily
for a year now.
I purchased this A/S 6 months ago and we are living in it while husband
on job building power plant. I have never been camping much or lived in
trailer so this is very different. So far I have survived.
I have the original owners registration papers and the owners manual.
The question is ---- The serial # plate says it was made in July 1971
and owner registration says was September 29, 1971 but the owners
manual front cover says 1972 A/S Owners Manual. The SN# 131T2J 1232
which was sold in Halltown, MO I-44 RV Box 93 and delivered to Owners
in Alliance, Nebraska. So is it a 1971 or 1972?
Thank you,
Scott & Judy Tanner
E-mail Address(es):
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--openmail-part-1312adbd-00000001--
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Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 08:37:39 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1971/1972 Airstream Land yacht International Sovereign 31'
Like automobiles, travel trailers aren't always built in the same model year
as they are titled. My 1975 Sovereign was built in July 1974, and has a mix
of parts from both models. Like the older Vista Views, fortunately.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 11:45:19 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: stove solutions
I want to thank Tom and Terry for their educating me about shutoff valves and
conversion orifices. Funny that the RV places I've talked with didn't mention
these alternatives to buying a new stove from them. Ha.
A handyman friend is going to remove the orifices/valves (wot's the
difference?)from the old stove to take to a used appliance store where the
owner says he has zillions of old gas stove parts. If there's a match I'm
home cheap. If not, due to all the input you've given, I know I can either
buy an apt. size gas stove compatible to the space and convert its
vales/orifices to LP and install a shutoff valve. That might cost me as much
as a new RV gas stove by the time I pay for labor.
Lincoln, I might just settle for a cooktop and toaster oven too if I get worn
down from all these decisions.
Jeanne
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Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 12:59:14 -0700
From: "chyde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 987 6.2 liter Suburban
Terry & all who replied about our 6.2 liter diesel Suburban several weeks
ago.
Thanks very much to everyone who convinced me to purchase this tow vehicle.
I live and run a vehicle development business on the former Plattsburgh Air
Base in Upstate NY. The agency redeveloping the Base decided to get rid of
most of the former Air Force vehicles and I was lucky enough to get one.
This vehicle is a 1987 6.2 liter (higher output 148hp model) diesel 2WD
Suburban with a 4.10 limited slip differential, turbo 400 3sp automatic
transmission with cooler and 8600lb GVWR. It has only 22,540 miles on it and
has been in storage since the Base closed in 95 although it was started
every 6 months for the past 7 years. It rarely left the Base during its life
so there is no rust and still wears it's Air Force blue paint very well. I
installed a new exhaust system, all new filters and changed the oil.
We are getting ready for our first outing with our 59 Ambassador
International next weekend and have run into what I hope is a minor problem.
It has run great for the past several weeks but has recently started getting
airlocked. If I bleed the air out of the filter into a bottle it'll start
and run fine. This started happening about a week ago and is getting more
frequent now. Any ideas? I thought possibly that the mechanical fuel pump
diaphragm may have deteriorated over time. This is my first diesel so I
still scratch when I look at it.
I have done some calculations based on the vehicle specs above and find that
with the stock tire size (235/85-16) @ 60 mph the engine will be turning at
2605rpm. Is this high for this engine? I've looked into getting new tires
(305/70-16) and worked out an effective ratio of 3.96:1 which gives me 2520
rpm @ 60mph. It doesn't sound like much of a change however it should allow
me to retain some reasonable acceleration and potentially give me a little
better mileage at highway speeds and be somewhat quieter. Has anyone tried
this switch. I have also looked into getting a Banks turbo. Apparently
these were factory approved options on these engines starting in 89 through
until the 6.5 turbo came out in 93. The 6.2 supposedly makes 207 hp and 385
lbft of torque with this option. This is slightly more than the stock 6.5
turbo at 195 hp. Has anyone out there owned one of the 6.2 vehicles with
this option. It's a fair bit of money to put into a 15 year old tow vehicle
however with only 22k miles on the clock, I'm hoping that it will last me a
long time. The fuel mileage is supposed to go up as well. Hopefully I
haven't gone too far off topic. Thanks for the input,
Preparing for our first trip.
Colin Hyde
WBCCI, VAC, 10247
57 Sovereign of the Road (being restored)
59 Ambassador International (very original)
87 6.2 Diesel Suburban (very heavy but a joy to drive)
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Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 12:59:02 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Gina ndelicate Answer and more than you want to know
Thanks Tom,
yes we do have a composter specifically for that purpose. it is a drum made
by I think SunMar, we use the macerator to pump it in with. mixed with peat
moss in certain amount, composted, dryed and processed with a blower and a
heating element and then processed in a staging bin. the composter cost
about $1000 and will accomadate up to 6 people full time. you would think we
would have compost running out of our ears, but with 2 adults and 2 kids we
produce about 1.5 gallons of dry crumbly not too smelly fertilizer a month.
the drum was meant to be installed in a home or cabin but easily adapted to
our system with the help of our macerator. althought we will have to have a
septic when our house is built the composter is making our life so much
easier now that we don't have to haul 40 gallons of liquid poop in our jiffy
blue holding tank 15 miles to the nearest RV park. plus those slinkys always
sprouted holes and we ended up wiht raw sewage on the ground at some point
in varying amounts. one time when dumping with the slinky into the blue
thing it was cold and I guess the slinky was brittle as a result and it
split, shooting copious amounts of waste until I was able to get to the
shut off valve to the black water tank. I SCREAMED it was UGLY I was FOUL
for a WEEK!!!!!!I decided that was enough! I just could not do that for 2
years while building my house and deciding the placement for the septic. So
there is the FULL story and surely more than anyone EVER wanted to know.
Greetings,
Gina et al
1971 soveriegn full timer
>From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Gina ndelicate Answer and more than you want to know
>Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 01:32:44 -0400
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>: thanks for all your concern however we use a REAL composter which was
>a
>: little expensive to begin with.which does on a small scale what
>treatment
>: plants do.not just a PILE and we use it on flowers and scrubs not
>veggie to
>: eat. The microbes once composted are not bad for the environment but
>GOOD
>: for them. let me know if you have any other concerns, I will try to
>put them
>: at rest, for now you can comfort yourself knowing that you probably
>live
>: 100's of miles from our "compost"!!!
>: Gina
>
>Gina,
>
>So you actually do have a composting toilet then? I know they are made
>but last time I checked they were used for isolated cabins and the like.
>
>We do lots of gardening ourselves and make our own compost all the time
>with yard waste, grass clippings and Fall leaves. I have a couple of
>big tillers one of which is 5 feet wide and hooks up to the PTO on the
>back of my John Deere compact tractor. The dirt in our garden is very
>rich, smells sweet and the vegetables thrive out there during the
>growing season. The weeds grow very easily there as well and always
>provides us with something to do there as well.
>
>I meant no offense with what I posted previously but I think you
>misunderstood the intent of my response to your earlier mention of
>composting waste.
>
>Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 14:03:34 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Brake Functioning
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Sounds to me that you need a Jordan Ultima brake controller. The braking =
force can be adjusted on the controller and then it's proportional to =
how much pressure you are putting on the tow vehicle brakes. Works =
great. I'd be unhappy with a brake controller that required constant =
manual attention.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----=20
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 22:46
Subject: [VAC] Re:=20
Marc, I also have very aggresive trailer brakes and have had them =
rebuilt. I still have the same problem. My brake mechanic told me to use =
the Kelsey-Hayes hand brake along with the foot brake. That seems to =
work a lot better. D. MacFadden 1974 Soverign.=20
------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C23A2D.63D77880
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sounds to me that you need a Jordan =
Ultima brake=20
controller. The braking force can be adjusted on the controller and then =
it's=20
proportional to how much pressure you are putting on the tow vehicle =
brakes.=20
Works great. I'd be unhappy with a brake controller that required =
constant=20
manual attention.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>' 68 Tradewind</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, August 01, 2002 =
22:46</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Marc, I also have very aggresive trailer brakes =
and have=20
had them rebuilt. I still have the same problem. My brake mechanic =
told me to=20
use the Kelsey-Hayes hand brake along with the foot brake. =
That=20
seems to work a lot better. D. MacFadden 1974 Soverign.=20
</FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C23A2D.63D77880--
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 16:43:46 -0400
From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 987 6.2 liter Suburban
Colin,
What *exactly* do you mean by the use of the words "getting airlocked"?
What does the engine do when this happens? You say, "If I bleed the air
'out of the filter' into a bottle it'll start and run fine.
All kidding aside but how can you do that? Do you mean that you add
fuel to the filter and then you re-install the filter which is full of
fuel and *then* the engine runs OK for a bit?
If what I've described above is what you meant in your words, then your
engine is "sucking air" from somewhere along the fuel route from the
tank to the filter. This problem will *not* fix itself. I suspect you
have a leaking gasket somewhere in the fuel line or the fuel hose itself
has developed a crack due to old age and perhaps sitting around not
really being used for so long.
I don't know much about your particular diesel engine, but I do know
quite a bit about how they work and what some of the problems can be
when they don't.
Some diesel engines will purge themselves of any air that is in the fuel
line and the others need to have the fuel filter first filled with fuel
*before* they are installed on the engine. This holds true for even
some of the large trucks on the highway or it used to anyway. Maybe,
hopefully, today's engines are able to purge the air in the fuel line
because I know first hand how miserable it can be when they don't and
you are "on the side", on the side of the road that is.
I'm afraid you will need to get this situation fixed *before* you leave
and hit the road.
Also, you may want to consider fully draining the fuel tank and perhaps
washing it out with some fresh fuel. After beginning with a very clean
tank you should always add a very high quality diesel fuel "conditioner"
to make sure that your engine is getting the proper nutrition it needs
to do its job.
I faithfully add 8 ounces of John Deere fuel conditioner to every 44
gallons that the tank holds on our Ford Excursion with the 7.3 liter
Powerstroke turbo-diesel engine. Today you never know what kind of
quality diesel fuel you are pumping into your tank and the JD fuel
conditioner makes sure that your fuel is good to your engine and you
will certainly notice good results with this product. You can read all
about "why" you should be adding fuel conditioner faithfully every time
you refuel the vehicle.
If you are not familiar with diesel engines and what can grow and
survive the fuel itself you certainly have an education awaiting you. ;)
But, it's a good education and you need to be aware of how these things
work and the proper care and feeding of them as well.
Tom
From: "chyde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: 987 6.2 liter Suburban
: ..................................and have run into what I hope is a
minor problem.
: It has run great for the past several weeks but has recently started
getting
: airlocked. If I bleed the air out of the filter into a bottle it'll
start
: and run fine.
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 18:52:24 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Highway Hangouts
--=====================_10460812==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
On the History channel tonight there is a good program for the Airstream
enthusiast. Hope this notice isn't too late for the list to enjoy.
Highway Hangouts: Celebrating America's Roadside Diners (2 Parts)
With the advent of mass automobile travel in the 20th century, a unique
roadside culture developed alongside America's highways and by-ways. In
their quest for the auto travelers dollars, these restaurants, motels and
roadside attractions vied with each other to catch the attention of their
prospective patrons. The result was the flowering of a unique form of
Americana-the roadside culture. Restaurants in the shape of animals, planes
and every other imaginable object offered fast, cheap food while motels in
the shape of wigwams offered weary travelers a night's rest. Highway
hangouts: Celebrating America's Roadside Diners takes viewers on a
nostalgic trip through the American landscape for a look at the culture of
a bygone era.
Bob Patterson
Canton, Ohio
--=====================_10460812==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
<html>
<div align="center"><font face="MS Sans Serif, Geneva"><b><br>
On the History channel tonight there is a good program for the Airstream
enthusiast. Hope this notice isn't too late for the list to
enjoy.<br><br>
<br>
Highway Hangouts: Celebrating America's Roadside Diners (2 Parts)</b>
<br>
</div>
With the advent of mass automobile travel in the 20th century, a unique
roadside culture developed alongside America's highways and by-ways. In
their quest for the auto travelers dollars, these restaurants, motels and
roadside attractions vied with each other to catch the attention of their
prospective patrons. The result was the flowering of a unique form of
Americana-the roadside culture. Restaurants in the shape of animals,
planes and every other imaginable object offered fast, cheap food while
motels in the shape of wigwams offered weary travelers a night's rest.
Highway hangouts: Celebrating America's Roadside Diners takes viewers on
a nostalgic trip through the American landscape for a look at the culture
of a bygone era. <br><br>
<br>
Bob Patterson<br>
Canton, Ohio</font></html>
--=====================_10460812==_.ALT--
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 23:57:53 +0100
From: Marie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Anyone have a polisher
Hi,
Having been unsuccessful in buying a secondhand cyclo polisher recently, I
wondered if there was anyone on the list(s) who had a cyclo or drum
polisher (air or electric) which they would be prepared to rent to me.
I would happily pay rental, and shipping and insurance both ways from the
US to the UK.
The only polishers I have been able to source over here are cheap(ish)
orbital ones, as it seems no-one polishes aircraft over here, and there
aren't many airstreams.
I'd probably need it for a few months, as spare time will be limited, but
if anyone is not intending to polish their airstream this year, and has an
idle polisher around, please consider helping out a fellow airstreamer.
Thanks for reading,
Marie
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 17:12:44 -0600
From: Jere Potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Replacing Water Tank -
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--MS_Mac_OE_3111153164_127045_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
on 8/1/02 11:51 PM, Brad Norgaard at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi John. I replaced the original 18 gallon aluminum tank in my Trade Wind
with a 33 gallon poly from www.all-rite.com. I modified the original booth
so the new tank would fit. The booth now has three-side seating instead of
the two benches. I managed to save the original fill tube and attached it to
several PVC fittings to get it to fit the new tank. Contact me off list if
you are interested in some photos and/or add'l info.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind
#2699 VAC, TCT
Thank you all for your help in the past! New question. I have given up
trying to replace the steel water tank and trying to find a plastic
replacement that will fit in the original spot. (1963 Globetrotter - Front
dinnette - tank was under front window under the dinette). I will be going
to a plastic rectangler tank (with a flo pump) under one of the seats of the
dinette. My question if you have done the same - what have you done with
the front fill pipe - what type of conversion is recommended? Or did you rig
the original fill pipe? Ideas - recommendations - what is acceptable among
the purists in the group? (if by chance you have an original steel tank
that's not leaking - that's in your way perhaps we can talk shop via email.
Thank you again.
Hi guys- I have just finished installing from scratch a new water system in
my '64 Globetrotter, putting a new 30 gal poly tank up front, instead of the
original along side the wheel well, streetside. This is NOT an original
restoration...
I will build a dinette opposite the galley, and the front will be a bed over
the new water tank. The old fill hose will come out, and I will patch over
the spot, before painting inside. The outside will probably stay the same
looking, after I seal it. (would not want to fill it, forgetting ). The
nearby access panel will still be visible on the inside, but I will think of
something creative to use that for.
For the new tank fill , I have located a new fill port, which I got at the
local RV parts place. It is a modern (female) hose attachment, with a
plastic flap to seal it off.
Total about 3 " diameter. This required drilling (!) about a 1 inch hole in
the front wall, slightly above the tank. It attaches with 3 rivets or
screws on a plastic flange. To connect it, I had intended on using clear 1
1/4" hose. but the tight bend was going to cause a kink. But then I saw a
hose at the parts place, that has reinforcing coil on the outside, for water
use, a green & white color at $2.50 /ft. This will bend tightly, but not
kink. An right angle adapter gets it to connect to the fixture, and Hose
clamp to the tank. While this is not as versatile as the original opening,
I basically always use a hose to fill the tank. (with filter when
travelling). I will not be able to pour from a jug, for instance if need be,
but could easily make a funnel-hose combo if I had to.
Feed to the shure-flo pump in back is mostly CPVC, but connection to pump is
a flexible clear pvc hose, for disconnect ease. From the pump, I built a
manifold of CPVC, with inlets for pump & city water at opposite, ends, then
take-offs for water heater & cold system( bath/shower. lav/toilet). The city
water inlet will serve a drain. Hot side has its' own drain. From this
manifold, all tubing is 1/2" & 1/4" ID PEX, which is very lightweight &
flexible. QEST fittings screw directly onto new faucet fixtures, and remain
snug.
Hope some of this is helpful to your project.
Jere Potter
Fort Collins,CO
--MS_Mac_OE_3111153164_127045_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [VAC] Re: Replacing Water Tank -</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
on 8/1/02 11:51 PM, Brad Norgaard at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE>Hi John. I replaced the original 18 gallon aluminum tank in my =
Trade Wind with a 33 gallon poly from www.all-rite.com. I modified the origi=
nal booth so the new tank would fit. The booth now has three-side seating in=
stead of the two benches. I managed to save the original fill tube and attac=
hed it to several PVC fittings to get it to fit the new tank. Contact me off=
list if you are interested in some photos and/or add'l info.<BR>
<BR>
Brad Norgaard<BR>
Phoenix<BR>
'59 Trade Wind<BR>
#2699 VAC, TCT <BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Thank you all for your help in the past! New=
question. I have given up trying to replace the steel water tank and =
trying to find a plastic replacement that will fit in the original spot. &nb=
sp;(1963 Globetrotter - Front dinnette - tank was under front window under t=
he dinette). I will be going to a plastic rectangler tank (with a flo =
pump) under one of the seats of the dinette. My question if you have d=
one the same - what have you done with the front fill pipe - what type of co=
nversion is recommended? Or did you rig the original fill pipe? Ideas - reco=
mmendations - what is acceptable among the purists in the group? (if by chan=
ce you have an original steel tank that's not leaking - that's in your way p=
erhaps we can talk shop via email. Thank you again.<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE>Hi guys- I have just finished installing from scratch a new wa=
ter system in my '64 Globetrotter, putting a new 30 gal poly tank up front, =
instead of the original along side the wheel well, streetside. This is NOT a=
n original restoration...<BR>
I will build a dinette opposite the galley, and the front will be a bed ov=
er the new water tank. The old fill hose will come out, and I will pat=
ch over the spot, before painting inside. The outside will probably stay the=
same looking, after I seal it. (would not want to fill it, forgetting ). Th=
e nearby access panel will still be visible on the inside, but I will think =
of something creative to use that for. <BR>
For the new tank fill , I have located a new fill port, which I got at the =
local RV parts place. It is a modern (female) hose attachment, with a plasti=
c flap to seal it off. <BR>
Total about 3 " diameter. This required drilling (!) about a 1 inch ho=
le in the front wall, slightly above the tank. It attaches with =
3 rivets or screws on a plastic flange. To connect it, I had int=
ended on using clear 1 1/4" hose. but the tight bend was going to cause=
a kink. But then I saw a hose at the parts place, that has reinforcing coil=
on the outside, for water use, a green & white color at $2.50 /ft. This=
will bend tightly, but not kink. An right angle adapter gets it to connect =
to the fixture, and Hose clamp to the tank. While this is not as versa=
tile as the original opening, I basically always use a hose to fill the tank=
. (with filter when travelling). I will not be able to pour from a jug, for =
instance if need be, but could easily make a funnel-hose combo if I had to.<=
BR>
Feed to the shure-flo pump in back is mostly CPVC, but connection to pump i=
s a flexible clear pvc hose, for disconnect ease. From the pump, I built a m=
anifold of CPVC, with inlets for pump & city water at opposite, ends, th=
en take-offs for water heater & cold system( bath/shower. lav/toilet). T=
he city water inlet will serve a drain. Hot side has its' own drain. From th=
is manifold, all tubing is 1/2" & 1/4" ID PEX, which is very l=
ightweight & flexible. QEST fittings screw directly onto new faucet fixt=
ures, and remain snug. <BR>
Hope some of this is helpful to your project.<BR>
Jere Potter<BR>
Fort Collins,CO<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>
--MS_Mac_OE_3111153164_127045_MIME_Part--
------------------------------
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