VACList DigestVACList-Digest Sunday, July 28, 2002 Issue 378
Today's Topics:
1. Name plates
2. Re: 53 Wheels and tires
3. David Thompson
4. Re: Refrigerator
5. Re: Refrigerator
6. Re: Refrigerator
7. Re: Proper toilet replacement for '74
8. Re: Size does matter - but how much?
9. Another way to get to the top . . .
10. Re: Name plates
11. Re: Proper toilet replacement for '74
12. Stove
13. Re: Stove
14. Re: Stove
15. fixing tail/break/running lights
16. fixing tail/break/running lights (2)
17. Re: Armstrong A/C Shroud
18. Re: fixing tail/break/running lights
19. Re: PJM-> fixing tail/break/running lights
20. Tire Information
21. Gaucho/Bed Units
22. Re: Stove
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 19:51:01 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Name plates
While cleaning up the exterior of the Bambi I became aware that there was
all kinds of crud behind the name plates. This was holding them away from
the trailer and the result was that rain was funneled directly to the top of
the little aluminum window awning and a hard rain would leak in.
I took one off today and cleaned out rotted stuff that has been accumulating
since 1962. So now here are the questions:
1) After sealing the little awning with vulcem do I put vulcem along the
top of the name plate and rivet the plate back on knowing that the spacing
between rivets is large enough that it will be likely that the seal will
open or do I use the vulcem and add a couple more rivets along the top edge
or do I screw it on through the existing holes and plan on taking it off
periodically to clean it and check the seal on the little awning or do I use
rivets only in the original holes and try to forget about future crud?
2) What's the best source for color matching paint for the nameplate?
Thanks,
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 18:48:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 53 Wheels and tires
Message Number: 20
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 11:45:18 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 53 Wheels and tires
I suggest getting some help at a tire shop to
determine the size. I almost bought tires for mine
before I had the trailer in hand. Turns out soemone
had replaced the axle to a older RV axle for 14.5"
wheels and a tight 6 bolt pattern.
Scott
'57 Caravanner
On Thursday, July 25, 2002, at 06:50 PM,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Anyone know what the size is on these?
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 21:53:10 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: David Thompson
>>
>> I'm David Thompson of Burlington, Wisconsin. I have just joined the list,
>> and recently purchased a 1974 Argosy 24-foot.
Welcome to the List,
What's your current project?
Most of us have several projects going at a time and one or two of us have
been known to repair the same thing twice (the first time when we thought we
knew what we were doing and the second time when we actually did know what
we were doing).
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 21:53:10 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--MS_Mac_OE_3110651632_875173_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
on 07/20/02 4:44 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
How is your fridge cooling?
It is not cooling at all. So any recommendations for a replacement? My
wife may like a 3-way (not that kind, for those that had minds in the
gutter) AC/LP/DC powered. I wonder if it is available and if the cost is
worth it? Is DC power that effective while driving?
Jim Crouch
------------------
Hi Jim,
Dometic will tell you their new refrigerators are more efficient than their
old ones.
BUT - in our 1967 Airstream, the Dometic 2 way keeps frozen food frozen
after 6-8 hours of driving with no power at all to the cooling unit. We
just traveled from the Northeast to the Rockies and back (5200 miles).
During the last two months, our refrigerator was always within the 35-40
degree range at the end of the day. During several days in Kansas, the
daytime temperature was 104 and only down to 100 degrees by 8 pm. For us,
that was a valid test of the refrigerator's capability.
You asked if the cost of DC power is worth it? The only one who can answer
that is you. For me, there's no contest. I've done fine with two way
refrigerators for 35 years.
In our 1977 Airstream, the Dometic 2 way cooling unit was replaced 5 years
ago. I kept the old box because the interior was fully functional and it was
an attractive unit. The replacement cooling unit is still working perfectly.
That's probably because I purchased ($175) the 5 year warranty. <grin> I
paid almost as much for the new cooling unit and installation as I could
have paid for new refrigerator that wouldn't fit unless I did extensive
remodeling of the woodwork.
Is your "to do" list in need of two more projects - or is one enough?
Terry
1967 22' Airstream Safari
1977 31' Airstream Excella 500
--MS_Mac_OE_3110651632_875173_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: Refrigerator</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
on 07/20/02 4:44 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><I>How is your fridge cooling?<BR>
</I><B>It is not cooling at all. So any recommendations for a replace=
ment? My wife may like a 3-way (not that kind, for those that had mind=
s in the gutter) AC/LP/DC powered. I wonder if it is available and if =
the cost is worth it? Is DC power that effective while driving?<BR>
</B>Jim Crouch<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
------------------<BR>
<BR>
Hi Jim,<BR>
<BR>
Dometic will tell you their new refrigerators are more efficient than their=
old ones. <BR>
<BR>
BUT - in our 1967 Airstream, the Dometic 2 way keeps frozen food frozen aft=
er 6-8 hours of driving with no power at all to the cooling unit. We j=
ust traveled from the Northeast to the Rockies and back (5200 miles). During=
the last two months, our refrigerator was always within the 35-40 degree ra=
nge at the end of the day. During several days in Kansas, the daytime temper=
ature was 104 and only down to 100 degrees by 8 pm. For us, that was a valid=
test of the refrigerator's capability. <BR>
<BR>
You asked if the cost of DC power is worth it? The only one who can answer =
that is you. For me, there's no contest. I've done fine with two way refrige=
rators for 35 years. <BR>
<BR>
In our 1977 Airstream, the Dometic 2 way cooling unit was replaced 5 years =
ago. I kept the old box because the interior was fully functional and it was=
an attractive unit. The replacement cooling unit is still working perfectly=
. That's probably because I purchased ($175) the 5 year warranty. &nbs=
p;<grin> I paid almost as much for the new cooling unit and installati=
on as I could have paid for new refrigerator that wouldn't fit unless I did =
extensive remodeling of the woodwork. <BR>
<BR>
Is your "to do" list in need of two more projects - or is one eno=
ugh? <BR>
<BR>
Terry<BR>
1967 22' Airstream Safari<BR>
1977 31' Airstream Excella 500<BR>
<BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>
--MS_Mac_OE_3110651632_875173_MIME_Part--
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 05:16:12 -0000
From: "Mitch Hill - K1FH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator
--Alt-Boundary-18625.54002847
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Content-description: Mail message body
On 27 Jul 2002 at 21:53, Terry Tyler wrote:
>
> In our 1977 Airstream, the Dometic 2 way cooling unit was replaced 5 years ago. I
>kept the old
> box because the interior was fully functional and it was an attractive unit. The
>replacement
> cooling unit is still working perfectly. That's probably because I purchased ($175)
>the 5 year
> warranty. <grin> I paid almost as much for the new cooling unit and installation as
>I could have
> paid for new refrigerator that wouldn't fit unless I did extensive remodeling of the
>woodwork.
>
Terry,
I have a "older" replacement refridgerator in my '64 Ambassador, the unit is
in good shape, however, the amonia absorbsion unit is tired, I hope I can
replace the cooling unit and keep the present box etc. I am very interested in
how you went about replacing the cooling unit, where you purchased the
parts etc.
TNX, 73, Mitch Hill - K1FH
'64 AS Ambassador
WBCCI #21960
--Alt-Boundary-18625.54002847
Content-type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Content-description: Mail message body
<body>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial"><span style="font-size:10pt">On 27 Jul 2002 at
21:53, Terry Tyler
wrote:</span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial" color="#7f0000"><span style="font-size:10pt">>
</span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial" color="#7f0000"><span style="font-size:10pt">>
In our 1977 Airstream,
the Dometic 2 way cooling unit was replaced 5 years ago. I kept the old
</span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial" color="#7f0000"><span style="font-size:10pt">>
box because the
interior was fully functional and it was an attractive unit. The replacement
</span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial" color="#7f0000"><span style="font-size:10pt">>
cooling unit
is still working perfectly. That's probably because I purchased ($175) the 5 year
</span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial" color="#7f0000"><span style="font-size:10pt">>
warranty. <grin>
I paid almost as much for the new cooling unit and installation as I could have
</span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial" color="#7f0000"><span style="font-size:10pt">>
paid for new
refrigerator that wouldn't fit unless I did extensive remodeling of the woodwork.
</span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial" color="#7f0000"><span style="font-size:10pt">>
</span></font></div>
<div align="left"><br>
</div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial"><span
style="font-size:10pt">Terry,</span></font></div>
<div align="left"><br>
</div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial"><span style="font-size:10pt">I have a
"older" replacement
refridgerator in my '64 Ambassador, the unit is
in good shape, however, the amonia absorbsion unit is tired, I hope I can
replace the cooling unit and keep the present box etc. I am very interested in
how you went about replacing the cooling unit, where you purchased the
parts etc. </span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial"><span style="font-size:10pt"> </span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial"><span style="font-size:10pt"><u>TNX, 73, Mitch
Hill - K1FH</u></span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial"><span style="font-size:10pt"><u>'64 AS Ambassador
</u></span></font></div>
<div align="left"><font face="Arial"><span style="font-size:10pt"><u>WBCCI
#21960</u></span></font></div>
<div align="left"></div>
</body>
--Alt-Boundary-18625.54002847--
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 00:22:28 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator
On Sun, 28 Jul 2002 05:16:12 -0000, "Mitch Hill - K1FH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
>I have a "older" replacement refridgerator in my '64 Ambassador, the unit is
>in good shape, however, the amonia absorbsion unit is tired, I hope I can
>replace the cooling unit and keep the present box etc. I am very interested in
>how you went about replacing the cooling unit, where you purchased the
>parts etc.
Chris Bryant will likely come on here and tell you more specifically what has
been told you already. It is going to cost you at least half if not 3/4s what a
new unit installed would cost, to pull, replace and reinstall that fridge.
also, consider the "crystalization" of the plastics inside that older fridge
which comes from many things to include leaking ammonia. also, if the job is
not done right, you will end up doing what is suggested below.
I think that all of us would recommend you find your best deal on a good
replacement unit.
chas
...
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 21:12:18 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Proper toilet replacement for '74
Hi Jim,
My self diagnosed problem indicates that any toilet more than 12 inches high
will be uncomfortably high. I don't think I need a riser! :)
Good point about the marine toilet. I'll take a lood at the site. Thanks,
'74 Argosy 22, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 08:03:07 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Size does matter - but how much?
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0131_01C2360D.34F6F5F0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I just tell RV parks if they ask that my 1976 Sovereign is a "1996 =
Airstream, Anniversary Edition." I have never had anyone question it.
Don Hardman
----- Original Message -----=20
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2002 1:52 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Size does matter - but how much?
Virginia: I have had my 25 Ft Tradewind (1969) for less than a year =
and haven't had much trouble staying in parks...at least when it comes =
to the size of the trailer. I have had trouble with parks accepting =
"older" trailers. As I understand it, many parks will not accept =
trailers if they consider them to be old.=20
Tom Fairbank=20
1969 Tradewind 25 ft=20
------=_NextPart_000_0131_01C2360D.34F6F5F0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2716.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I just tell RV parks if they ask that =
my=20
1976 Sovereign is a "1996 Airstream, Anniversary Edition." I have =
never had=20
anyone question it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Don Hardman</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 26, 2002 =
1:52 PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Size does =
matter - but=20
how much?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>Virginia: I =
have had my=20
25 Ft Tradewind (1969) for less than a year and haven't had much =
trouble=20
staying in parks...at least when it comes to the size of the trailer. =
I=20
have had trouble with parks accepting "older" trailers. As I =
understand=20
it, many parks will not accept trailers if they consider them to be =
old.=20
<BR>Tom Fairbank <BR>1969 Tradewind 25 ft</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0131_01C2360D.34F6F5F0--
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 05:09:37 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Another way to get to the top . . .
Hi Terry,
I got several notes about how to get on the roof without getting on the
roof. Finally resolved to do it my way and used an old articulating ladder.
Installed a 4 foot 1x10 covered with carpet to rest on the roof. The
inverted "L" distributes my weight between the ground and the top of the
trailer. Makes for an anxious climb, but very stabile once I get to the
top of the inverted "L". On top, I have a pretty large space to lay around
on!
Only used this contraption once to get to the antennae and start sealing
seams. The Argosy has steel endcaps. The joint between the aluminum and
steel seem compromised and I've not been able to stop leaks to the interior.
The steel caps "were" galvanized at one time in their life. I'll be up
there a lot! :( The frequent rain squalls are making the leak detection OK,
but sealing nearly impossible. Need the rain, so won't complain too much.
'74 Argosy 22, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 07:41:07 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Name plates
On Saturday, July 27, 2002, at 05:51 PM, Dick and Kris Parins wrote:
> I took one off today and cleaned out rotted stuff that has been
> accumulating
> since 1962. So now here are the questions:
> 1) After sealing the little awning with vulcem do I put vulcem along
> the
> top of the name plate and rivet the plate back on knowing that the
> spacing
> between rivets is large enough that it will be likely that the seal will
> open or do I use the vulcem and add a couple more rivets along the top
> edge
> or do I screw it on through the existing holes and plan on taking it off
> periodically to clean it and check the seal on the little awning or do
> I use
> rivets only in the original holes and try to forget about future crud?
Reinstall the nameplate with Olympic rivets in the existing holes.
Then seal the gaps in the top with the Vulkem, cleaning it all up neat
and tidy with paint thinner (mineral spirits).
>
> 2) What's the best source for color matching paint for the nameplate?
Any of the darker blue high quality spray paints will work. I use
Rustoleum Royal Blue, which is a very close match to the original when
it was compared to the colors found in an older catalog.
More info here:
http://www.VintageAirstream.com/rr_topics_nameplate.html
RJ
'65 Caravel
'57 Flying Cloud
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 07:52:32 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Proper toilet replacement for '74
I can vouch for the quality and ease of installation of the Sealand
toilets. Don't let the name fool you, they aren't just marine toilets
per se. These are nicely designed china bowl toilets that look great in
any period trailer, and the flush mechanism and flange base are perfect
for Airstream's.
I tell people not to worry if they see a cheap plastic toilet when
looking at vintage trailers. Just knock another $500 off the sellers
asking price and stick in a Sealand toilet. And they do! I get some
great replies back.
The only thing they won't fit are those quirky outhouse like toilet
installations where the toilet is installed under the bench seat. I
think whoever makes a lowrise toilet will fill a great need.
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
On Saturday, July 27, 2002, at 06:12 PM, Mr. Joy H. Hansen wrote:
> Hi Jim,
> My self diagnosed problem indicates that any toilet more than 12 inches
> high
> will be uncomfortably high. I don't think I need a riser! :)
> Good point about the marine toilet. I'll take a lood at the site.
> Thanks,
>
> '74 Argosy 22, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 14:33:45 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Stove
I need to replace the Magic Chef stove in my '71 Safari. An A/S dealer said
any gas stove which fit the space would be OK. I found an apartment size
stove which would fit but the pilot light in the oven has to stay on. You
can't turn it off. Hence that wouldn't work. Also I think that you would have
to convert it somehow to work off LP gas instead of natural.
I'm trying to get a cheaper replacement than those advertised in RV catalogs.
Any suggestions?
Jeanne
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 12:41:22 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stove
I'll soon have a range available as I strip appliances out of my
Monitor. It has an oven, has had little use in the last ten years. I
don't know the dimensions. I'm thinking it has four burners.
The apartment stove will need new orifices and some better burner
ignition than the pilot that probably won't stay on with wind drafts
while traveling and some don't travel with the tank valves open. Some
states don't like traveling with propane tank valves open, some places
don't allow propane tanks period, valves open or closed.
Gerald J. Iowa
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 14:09:23 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stove
I have the original magic chef stove from my 76 Sovereign. It works great,
the oven looks like new and the stainless steel top and burners are in great
shape. I did not need the oven and replace it with just the cook to. I am in
the Houston Texas area and would love to see someone put this to good use.
If you are within driving distance I will make you a good deal.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 1:33 PM
Subject: [VAC] Stove
> I need to replace the Magic Chef stove in my '71 Safari. An A/S dealer
said
> any gas stove which fit the space would be OK. I found an apartment size
> stove which would fit but the pilot light in the oven has to stay on. You
> can't turn it off. Hence that wouldn't work. Also I think that you would
have
> to convert it somehow to work off LP gas instead of natural.
>
> I'm trying to get a cheaper replacement than those advertised in RV
catalogs.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Jeanne
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 12:34:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jill Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: fixing tail/break/running lights
all of my exterior lights are inoperative; in
fact, the only ones that remain (with light
fixtures) are the two round tail lights and the
three upper rear running lights. there is a
capped wire hanging out of each of the holes
where other light fixtures used to be.
i am suspicious that the person who started to
restore and gave up just removed them to
polish... maybe they actually work.
i know that wiring can be tricky and a tiny
section of wire can short the whole system.
is it possible that i just need to replace the
wire that connects to my truck?
my guess is i should first find fixtures to see
if any of the lights work. will standard fixtures
fit? not concerned that they are "airstream".
who has undergone this project and any advise? i
think i need a check list of things to check.
jill
oregon
'60 tw
=====
"Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
and everything is right on schedule."
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 12:40:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jill Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: fixing tail/break/running lights (2)
to clarify.. the tail lights ARE there and they
do NOT work.. no break lights, etc.
jill
=====
"Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
and everything is right on schedule."
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 17:00:29 -0400
From: "Robin Leigh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Armstrong A/C Shroud
Andy,
We have a 65 TW with a newly resurrected TAC-110 but the only remnants
of a shroud are two sections of aluminum grill which maybe came from the
original. What were the Airstream shrouds made of? Were they painted? The
best information I have so far is a picture of a 65 TW with what looks like
the same a/c unit at
http://www.vintageairstream.com/archives/%2765Tradewind.html*. It looks very
shiny. I'm sure I can come up with a serviceable approximation, but it would
be nice to know what we're aiming at.
I appreciate getting the benefit of your experience on this sort of
thing.
Thanks,
Robin Leigh 65 TW
* Thanks to www.vintageairstream.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 15:40:43 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: fixing tail/break/running lights
All of my marker lights failed to work because each was not grounded.
Wasn't a wiring or lamp problem. Though the first thing to check is the
lamps and their connections to the sockets. Then check for grounding.
My long post on quality grounding should be in the archives.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 18:23:37 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: PJM-> fixing tail/break/running lights
Hiya Jill ,
First I would locate the junction of the wires coming from the tongue (
the bargman connector that connects to truck ,and the trailer wires) which
is located in the right front corner of the bellypan . There is a
rectangular piece of alum there ,unscrew it and find the white wire (ground
on my trailer). Connect a short piece of say 10 gauge wire to that wire ,
perhaps using a bigger wire nut . Grind sand or scrape a clean place on a
nearby frame member and screw the short wire to it (after crimping an
eyelet on it ) with a stainless sheet metal screw . Now you have a good
ground .
Next go to the autoparts store and by a test lamp ( looks like an awl
with an alligator clamp and wire coming out of the top and a light in the
handle) .
Poking the pointy end at the connections with the clamp attached to
ground while going thru the functions in truck (blinkers brakes etc) will
tell you which wire does what .Sometimes it helps to have the trailer
setting on the ball hitch , or the jack directly on ground , it grounds
better that way .
You may have to change some wires around , as airstream was coded
differently than your truck wires will be on the reciever end . Lots about
that in Toms archives . Now would be the time to replace the bargman
connecter on the trailer if its funky looking , or round pins instead of
flat like in the truck .
If your getting power there ( the lamp in handle lights up) ,go back to
the tailights poke it and see if you get a contact there
( make a ground on the bumper for the alligater clamp ). If its not lit up
, there may be a break in the wire , which is the worst case scenario .You
will have to drop the pan to rewire it all the way from the front , and
remove the interior in the back to get at the lamp . BUT its almost always
a bad ground . Sometimes it helps to rescrew or rerivet the lamp to the
body in a fresh hole , or use a star washer if the interior is out for
access. Always check for good ground first BEFORE you give up and rewire !
Airstream Dreams or Inland has the Grote teardrop lights for the running
lamps , lots of other brands used the same tailights , maybe you can find
them used .
Hope that helps
Chris 67 caravel
Jill Hari wrote:
> all of my exterior lights are inoperative; in
> fact, the only ones that remain (with light
> fixtures) are the two round tail lights and the
> three upper rear running lights. there is a
> capped wire hanging out of each of the holes
> where other light fixtures used to be.
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 15:51:10 -0700
From: "Richard McFarland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Tire Information
Hello - If you happened to miss the following information that resulted from
a couple of questions that two of us recently brought up on the Airstream
List - I thought I'd repeat it here. It could be of interest to you.
It is about tires.
First -
If you go to http://www.goodyear.com/media/pr/lre0280.html
you can read the information they provide about -
"Proactive Tire Replacement 15 passenger vans"
"NHTSA to close investigation on Load Range E"
"Goodyear targets proactive 15-passenger van tire replacement"
I came across other articles - on different sites - relating to this
situation - but this is a place to start your own research if you are
interested.
Second - I asked for info on the concept regarding "friction activated
inhibitors" in tires. I'd seen mention of this on the FAQ page of the VAC
site and I'd also seen another reference to it someplace else - but I
wondered "just how does it work".
Several answers resulted - and it's really very interesting - and you'll
also be able to ad another word to your "crossword vocabulary" if you've not
seen this particular definition of "blooming". The information that came
about seems to be similar and it appears on numerous sites related to
automotive maintenance geared towards exterior upkeep.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7459/techtalk6.htm#article2
also
www.millertire.com - click on "repairs / supplies" and scroll down
to Sunscreen for Tires
Interesting stuff.
Save travels. RL
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 19:13:29 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Gaucho/Bed Units
--part1_83.1e3d4bec.2a75d499_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hello,
I'm Cliff Horton in Rusk, Tx. I have two complete Gaucho/Bed units out of our
'71 23' Safari. We are remodeling our A/S to meet our physical needs.
The units show 30+ years of use, but are complete.
If anyone is interested in one or both, please contact me off list.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I don't think I could ship them - they are too big and bulky, but someone
could pick them up, or if not too far away, I could transport them in my
pickup.
I hate to throw anything vintage away. WBCCI 26925.
--part1_83.1e3d4bec.2a75d499_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Hello,
<BR>I'm Cliff Horton in Rusk, Tx. I have two complete Gaucho/Bed units out of our '71
23' Safari. We are remodeling our A/S to meet our physical needs.
<BR>The units show 30+ years of use, but are complete.
<BR>If anyone is interested in one or both, please contact me off list.
<BR>E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<BR>I don't think I could ship them - they are too big and bulky, but someone could
pick them up, or if not too far away, I could transport them in my pickup.
<BR>I hate to throw anything vintage away. WBCCI 26925.</FONT></HTML>
--part1_83.1e3d4bec.2a75d499_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 19:41:14 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stove
Jeanne, how much do you use the oven in your Safari? We almost never used
ours in the three trailers I've owned. Susan said she wanted a microwave
instead of the oven so I replaced the broken stove with a new Magic Chef
cook top and put a microwave under it on a shelf. The cook top and the
microwave together cost less than a new Magic Chef stove and are more
useful. We already had a small toaster oven for baking. Maybe it would work
for you. Just a thought.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 14:33
Subject: [VAC] Stove
> I need to replace the Magic Chef stove in my '71 Safari. An A/S dealer
said
> any gas stove which fit the space would be OK. I found an apartment size
> stove which would fit but the pilot light in the oven has to stay on. You
> can't turn it off. Hence that wouldn't work. Also I think that you would
have
> to convert it somehow to work off LP gas instead of natural.
>
> I'm trying to get a cheaper replacement than those advertised in RV
catalogs.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Jeanne
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #378
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
