VACList DigestVACList-Digest Thursday, August 8, 2002 Issue 388
Today's Topics:
1. Trimming viscoelastic toppers
2. Re:
3. Re: Window treatments
4. epoxy & Vulkem?
5. Re: epoxy & Vulkem?
6. Re: epoxy & Vulkem?
7. Re: epoxy & Vulkem?
8. Re: epoxy & Vulkem?
9. Re: Refrigerator manuals
10. Re: releasing the spring on a faulkner awning
11. Re: Window treatments
12. Re: Window treatments
13. Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
14. Re: door gasket & brakes
15. Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
16. Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
17. Re: door gasket & brakes
18. Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 18:56:43 -0700
From: Stan Nicholson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Trimming viscoelastic toppers
Don -
Yes, the topper can be cut to fit. It comes with a fabric case that
has a zipper on three sides. If you cut the foam, you'll also want
to modify the cover - an easy task for an accomplished seamstress
like my wife, but I'd never try it myself.
A related issue is the fabric from which the cover's made. One
reason for the high prices of Tempurpedic products is that they use a
fabric something like Goretex - it "breathes", allowing air to pass
through, but will not permit moisture to penetrate (biggest concern
is from the outside to the foam). We're thinking about making custom
covers from Goretex for our toppers.
Hope this helps.
Stan
====================
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:04:34 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tempurpedic possibilities
Is this someting that can be cut to fit ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Nicholson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 3:48 AM
Subject: [VAC] Tempurpedic possibilities
> Thought this might be useful to those considering the high-tech foam
> mattress option. We'd been thinking about a Tempurpedic mattress for
> home for several months, but hadn't done anything because of the high . . .
'72 Overlander
'96 K2500 Suburban
Hensley
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 22:03:59 -0400
From: "john or cindy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
> Message Number: 5
> Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 21:10:48 -0400
> From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: pumps
>
> John,
>
> Great to hear from you!
>
> It greatly suprises me that the water will just flow right through the
idle
> pump! Do you notice a reduced water flow while doing this?
>
> If I replace my pump with a demand pump I will most likely add a new city
> water connection near or at the rear of the trailer, just to modernize
> things a little. It would be nice to use a short hose instead of the 50
> footer I currently use! But, I will keep your setup in mind, just in case
I
> don't have time to do the full job, or I don't find a connection that I
> like.
>
Scott
Our new 12 volt pump setup in the 58 Caravanner seems to flow at about the
same rate as our factory stock 73 Tradewind's water system. I do use an in
line pressure regulator at the city faucet outlet before I connect my fresh
water hose. Our Caravanner has 3/8" OD copper tubing, our Tradewind has 1/2"
OD copper tubing. I am slowly converting all fresh water plumbing to 1/2" ID
nylon reinforced FDA approved clear flexible tubing with stainless steel
hose clamps at the connections. I'm good at soldering copper but where
vibration & freezing is expected, the soft tubing seems to be more
forgiving. It seems to be holding up fine so far. If I find this system
fails, I'll admit my failure & return to the copper. I try to work towards
the KISS system (keep it simple stupid).
John Young
WBCCI & VAC 6034
"If the women don't find you handsome,
they should at least find you handy"
(R. Green)
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 21:37:12 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Window treatments
Hi Bob,
I love blinds, keep the sun out, let some light in, and I can peek at
the neighbors...
I started with really cheap plastic blinds from Wally World. I cut them
off with a saber saw if they were too long, and shortened their strings
and removed slats . I just redid the back bedroom with wooden ones from
Home Despot, and run them all the way up to the light fixture. Looks a
lot less like the inside of an ostrich egg in there now.
To keep the bottom of the blinds from hanging out, I used thin bungee
chords. On the white plastic ones, I hooked them into the hole in the
ends of the bottom bar. This grabs onto my window latches and holds the
blinds in. For the bedroom, I screwed a length of shock cord on the back
side of the bottom, and it grabs the window latches, and then disappears
behind.
I don't know for sure what kind of window latches you have in a 66.
perhaps an unobtrusive hook, kind of like the ones on speed laced boots.
I think the fancy blinds that have a track would be cool, but would the
track bend to conform to the curve, and wow, at $85 a pop, I'm happy
with what I got.
Go play with cheap ones to see what it's like.
Daisy
My Airstream wrote:
>
> Now that my A/C has been replaced by a Fantastic Fan and new tile covers the
> floor the interior of my 66 Safari is looking so much slicker. I would like
> to carry this clean look over to the windows. Instead of going for the
> stock curtains I am leaning toward Levilor mini-blinds in Teal color.
>
> The front and back walls are straight vertical so there is no problem with
> mini-blinds on those windows. But the side of the coach has such a radical
> curve that a wooden channel or something is needed to keep the blinds
> against the curved wall. Before I go spending a lot of time and money
> building such channels I wondered if anyone had an off the shelf solution to
> this problem?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Cruiser Bob
> 66 Safari
> Oceanside, CA
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 21:14:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jill Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: epoxy & Vulkem?
--- Pete Ryner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The best thing I have found to
> repair the floor is penetrating epoxy. It
> penetrates the wood and makes it
> waterproof, hard, and a great base
I would like some brand names or enough specific
info to look for this stuff... I mean, if I walk
into Home Depot or Fred Meyer or wherever and say
"I need some of that penetrating epoxy stuff"
will they all know what I'm talking about? The
Web source would be nice, Pete!
> BTW, I LOVE vulkem for
> sealing any opening in the
> exterior - personal opinion.
Okay, I finally have to ask, what in the world is
Vulkem and where do I find it? I'm sure I will
need it because my airstream needs EVERY thing.
Jill
Oregon
'60 TW
=====
"Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
and everything is right on schedule."
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 22:25:08 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: epoxy & Vulkem?
Vulkem is a polyurethane caulk made by Tremco. Far stronger than
silicone. Its sometimes found in the paint departments at Menards, Home
Depot, and Lowes. Sometimes has its own special display. About $4 a
tube. The tubes in the home centers is type 116 which appears to have
virtually the same composition as the larger tube type 616 that the
Airstream factory uses. The aluminum color is a pretty good match for my
Airstream's skin.
Penetrating epoxy probably isn't found in home centers, but some of the
VAC list have good reasonably priced sources. Otherwise check the
advertisements in Fine Homebuilding magazine for wood restoring epoxies.
You could always ask for a wood restoring penetrating epoxy. Its
sometimes good to be able to ask for things the clerks in big home
centers never heard of. Keeps them from thinking they have EVERYTHING
anyone could ever need for a home.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 04:45:30 -0000
From: "Mitch Hill - K1FH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: epoxy & Vulkem?
On 7 Aug 2002 at 21:14, Jill Hari wrote:
> Okay, I finally have to ask, what in the world is
> Vulkem and where do I find it? I'm sure I will
> need it because my airstream needs EVERY thing.
Jill,
Go to www.airstreamdreams.com web site, they have Vulkem and
a lot of other handy items for Vintage Airstreams.
--
TNX, 73, Mitch - K1FH / AFA1HN
Frank M. "Mitch" Hill
'64 AS Ambassador International
WBCCI 21960 - VAC
SKP - Good SAM
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 06:22:13 -0600
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: epoxy & Vulkem?
Jill,
I had the same frustration finding the penetrating epoxy. Someone on the
list turned me on to the fiberglas coatings website. I have no financial
interest etc., and found them to be very helpful, reasonably priced compared
to what I found locally, and have fast service. You can get Vulkem at
inlandrv, airstreamdreams, and some home centers. It is a very strong,
flexible sealant, much better than silicone. Good luck with your project.
Mine needed almost everything too. It's taken me a year to reach the 75%
completion point.
Pete
http://www.fgci.com/
http://www.airstreamdreams.com/
http://inlandrv.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
Jill Hari
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:14 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] epoxy & Vulkem?
--- Pete Ryner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The best thing I have found to
> repair the floor is penetrating epoxy. It
> penetrates the wood and makes it
> waterproof, hard, and a great base
I would like some brand names or enough specific
info to look for this stuff... I mean, if I walk
into Home Depot or Fred Meyer or wherever and say
"I need some of that penetrating epoxy stuff"
will they all know what I'm talking about? The
Web source would be nice, Pete!
> BTW, I LOVE vulkem for
> sealing any opening in the
> exterior - personal opinion.
Okay, I finally have to ask, what in the world is
Vulkem and where do I find it? I'm sure I will
need it because my airstream needs EVERY thing.
Jill
Oregon
'60 TW
=====
"Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
and everything is right on schedule."
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 08:20:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: epoxy & Vulkem?
west marine has penetrating epoxy too.
i think it's http://www.westmarine.com
I think, as a general rule you can find many of the
things you need for airstreams - not only at airstream
places - but at home stores, marine shops, and
aircraft shops. it's the best of all worlds, and if
you look into all these stores, you're going to find
everything you need. I've even found things that
match the original parts at Fleet Farm - "the Man's
Megamall" as they describe it on the t-shirts.
I live in Minnesota.
Toby
--- Pete Ryner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jill,
> I had the same frustration finding the penetrating
> epoxy. Someone on the
> list turned me on to the fiberglas coatings website.
> I have no financial
> interest etc., and found them to be very helpful,
> reasonably priced compared
> to what I found locally, and have fast service. You
> can get Vulkem at
> inlandrv, airstreamdreams, and some home centers.
> It is a very strong,
> flexible sealant, much better than silicone. Good
> luck with your project.
> Mine needed almost everything too. It's taken me a
> year to reach the 75%
> completion point.
> Pete
>
> http://www.fgci.com/
> http://www.airstreamdreams.com/
> http://inlandrv.com/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
> Jill Hari
> Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:14 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] epoxy & Vulkem?
>
>
> --- Pete Ryner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > The best thing I have found to
> > repair the floor is penetrating epoxy. It
> > penetrates the wood and makes it
> > waterproof, hard, and a great base
>
> I would like some brand names or enough specific
> info to look for this stuff... I mean, if I walk
> into Home Depot or Fred Meyer or wherever and say
> "I need some of that penetrating epoxy stuff"
> will they all know what I'm talking about? The
> Web source would be nice, Pete!
>
> > BTW, I LOVE vulkem for
> > sealing any opening in the
> > exterior - personal opinion.
>
> Okay, I finally have to ask, what in the world is
> Vulkem and where do I find it? I'm sure I will
> need it because my airstream needs EVERY thing.
>
> Jill
> Oregon
> '60 TW
>
> =====
> "Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
> and everything is right on schedule."
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
> http://www.hotjobs.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 17:34:19 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator manuals
David W. Lowrey wrote:
>Here is a site that has a lot of Dometic and Norcold refrigerator manuals
>in PDF format:
>http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/dometic_manuals.htm
>
>Dave
FWIW- I also have a bunch of manuals- including the 1969 Dometic
service manual (covers every refrigerator Dometic built before that
date) and a very old Suburban furnace manual.
These are in pdf form- but I don't have the patience to scan
them with OCR- so they are not searchable, but they are printable (and
readable).
Oh yeah- they are at http://www.bryantrv.com/docs.html
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 17:41:45 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: releasing the spring on a faulkner awning
jon fitz wrote:
>I was warned by some folks to be very careful about
>releasing the spring tension when replacing the awning
>fabric (thanks!). However, I have not been able to
>find out how this is done with my particular awning.
>If anyone knows and can share this info, I would
>greatly appreciate it.
>
>There are no short parts that can be separated and
>manually "unwound". So, I don't think I can use the
>Zip-dee technique. I keep thinking about the gag that
>kids play with two pencils and a rubber band all
>twisted up...but this one isn't too funny.
>
>Please help--I don't want to be flogged by my awning!
Hey Jon- sorry I didn't get back to you.
The main tool used to release the tension is Vice Grips- the
part you want to grab is the "plug", which is on the end of the spring
assembly, and inserted in to the arm. You need to find a good place to
grab it with the Vice Grips, and make sure they are secure.
I am always very careful when I do a job like this- I detach
the bottom of the main arm from the trailer on both ends of the
awning, and lower the roller tube on to a couple of saw horses- then I
grab the end plug with the vice grips, there should be a bolt holding
the plug in to the arm- I remove that, then make sure the vice grips
are secure, and pull the arm and plug apart.
Then count the turns needed to unwind the tension (I usually
put a couple of turns extra when retensioning- don't know why, but it
usually needs it to operate right).
I've been looking for some good illustrations, and have not
been able to find any, yet- but I'll keep looking.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 14:39:05 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Window treatments
Daisy,
Thanks for the thoughts. I can visualize the wooden channels that hold
the blinds against the curved wall. I think they will be tough to build for
anybody but a woodworker with a shop. That's why I was hoping that someone
had an aftermarket solution.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
From: "Daisy Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: Window treatments
> Hi Bob,
>
> I love blinds, keep the sun out, let some light in, and I can peek at
> the neighbors...
<snip>
> I think the fancy blinds that have a track would be cool, but would the
> track bend to conform to the curve, and wow, at $85 a pop, I'm happy
> with what I got.
>
> Go play with cheap ones to see what it's like.
>
> Daisy
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 14:47:45 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Window treatments
Jim,
That sounds exactly like what I am looking for. Anybody out there got a
reliable Airstream Dealer in SoCal or other closest location?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Clark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 6:53 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Window treatments
> Bob:
> The Airstream dealers sell a system that uses a plastic piece to provide a
> pin on the end of the bottom of the blind and a piece that goes on the
wall
> to hold the bottom of the blind against the wall... works fine... I have
> the blinds on our unit...
>
> Jim
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 18:06:25 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
Huff,
I like you am looking for an accessable place to carry our bikes. Have you
determined that you have enough clearance to have your bikes between the tow
vehicle and trailer AND still be able to make turns? Unless you have an
abnormally long tow bar it is likely the bikes will hit the trailer when you
turn a corner.
Scott
>
> Message Number: 26
> Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 08:41:55 -0700
> From: "Dave Huffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I agree, Gerald, but I'm adding a bike hitch to the trailer hitch. Both
> Hollywood and REI sell units that slide OVER the 2" hitch post (I have
> reasons for wanting my bikes on the rear of the tow vehicle vs. rear of
> trailer). My Reese? hitch has a large angled spine which narrows the
> distance between rear of car hitch and that projecting spine to about
> 1.5" -- I need 3" for the bike carrier.
> Huff
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 18:32:38 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: door gasket & brakes
Steve,
You can go to www.airstreamparts.com to see the gasketing that Inland RV
sells for the '58-'63 trailers. If it matches I would purchase enough to do
all the doors. If it does not match, you may have the gasketing that my
trailer does. I will send a pick off-list. The foam weather-stripping falls
apart too fast for my liking.
As for your Jeep: Somehow Jeeps have this aura of being able to tow
anything. Whether it will tow your trailer safely/reliably depends on the
size and weight of your trailer and what your vehicle is rated to tow.
Notice I did not say that all '93 Grand Cherokees are rated to tow "X"
amount, because I do not know that, and if Jeep is like the rest of the
industry the tow rating varies dramatically depending on the options the
vehicle has. Perhaps a call to Jeep with the serial number will give you the
info on your vehicle.
I highly suggest loading your trailer (along with a full water tank) as you
would normally to go camping and tow the trailer to the nearest public
scales to see how much you are asking the Jeep to tow. It does not take much
time or money. Just to give you a ballpark figure, my '60 Overlander (26
footer) weighs in just under 5000# when loaded even though the published
empty weight is only 3250#.
About the brakes...most people opt to replace the hydraulic brakes with
modern electrical ones.
Scott
> Hi, Not sure if this is the correct way to respond as this is my first
time
> on the list. I seem to have original door gasket on my '59. What do you
> suggest replacing the weather strip with? Is foam of the same thickness
ok?
>
> Also, I have original hydraullic brakes. Do I want to leave alone or
convert
> to electrical?
>
> Will my '93 Jeep Grand Cherokee be ok for towing?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Regards,
> Steve Weil
> Rockmount Ranch Wear Mfg. Co.
> Denver
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 15:47:21 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
I second Scott's assertion. Also haven't heard any reasons why bikes
wouldn't mount on the back of the trailer.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 3:06 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
> Huff,
>
> I like you am looking for an accessable place to carry our bikes. Have you
> determined that you have enough clearance to have your bikes between the
tow
> vehicle and trailer AND still be able to make turns? Unless you have an
> abnormally long tow bar it is likely the bikes will hit the trailer when
you
> turn a corner.
>
> Scott
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 18:59:20 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
Anything mounted on the back end of most older Airstream trailers, bikes
included, "WILL LEAD TO REAR END SEPARATION." Not maybe, but guaranteed.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 19:00:04 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: door gasket & brakes
Scott. What's with the "Nasty Girl" ad ?
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 16:14:10 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height (& bike carriers)
> Anything mounted on the back end of most older Airstream trailers,
> bikes included, "WILL LEAD TO REAR END SEPARATION." Not
> maybe, but guaranteed.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
> airstreamparts.com
Well that settles that. I recommend a Yakima or Thule Roof Rack to avoid
turning radius issues and short tongue length.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #388
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