VACList DigestVACList-Digest Wednesday, July 31, 2002 Issue 380
Today's Topics:
1. Refinishing Bathroom Unit
2. Paper Backed Tambour Doors
3. Re: '74 Argosy Help! List
4. Re: Drain Valve
5. LPG Hose Replacement
6. Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
7. Re: Vintage grey water
8. Re: LPG Hose Replacement
9. Re: LPG Hose Replacement
10. Re: LPG Hose Replacement
11. Re: Refinishing Bathroom Unit
12. 66 TradeWind Interior on ebay
13. Re: Fwd: Dues?
14. Refrigerator Cooling Units
15. Re: Drain Valve
16. Re: Refinishing Bathroom Unit
17. Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
18. Vintage Airstreaming Article
19. Shower plumbing
20. Re: Shower plumbing
21. Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
22. Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
23. Cherokee RV and RM Rally
24. Re: Cherokee RV and RM Rally
25. Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
26. Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
27. Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 00:38:36 +0000
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Refinishing Bathroom Unit
Hi guys, I'm back on the list after a few months off for
some other projects.
I'm just about ready to reinstall the rear bath unit on
my 70 Overlander. After cleaning all of the grunge and
crap off of the parts and panels, I find they have
faded, have stains that won't come out, and generally
don't match each other.
Does anyone know a good way to refinish these fiberglass
panels so that the new color/finish will hold up to
general maintenance (i.e. scrubbing the tub, sink, etc.)?
I don't want to just paint them, unless there is a
product that will stick.
Gary Murrell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'70 Overlander (presently gutted)
--
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 20:56:36 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Paper Backed Tambour Doors
A few days ago there was a thread about tambour doors in the early 70s
trailers that come apart and require repairs or replacement. I was looking
through some of my old Airstream files that I had when I owned a ' 72
Tradewind. I came across this letter from the National Service Director for
Airstream in 1975 which discusses the problem and Airstream's response to
the problem. I thought it might be of interest so I scanned it into a word
file and copied it below. I also found where I had ordered new replacement
tambour material that I installed in the ' 72 Tradewind.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
NORTH DIXIE HIGHWAY. SIDNEY. OHIO 45365 - TELEPHONE (AREA CODE 513) 492-9175
November 10, 1975
Dear Airstream Owner;
I am writing to you concerning the rolling tambour door material used in
your Airstream travel trailer. I'd like to write each of you personally;-but
since I am contacting every owner of 1970 to 1974 Airstreams, please accept
this form letter.
When we select a new material or component for use in an Airstream, we rely
on the advice of the manufacturer and our own pre-testing program to prove
its applicability. Then we provide a two year unlimited warranty on that
material or component assuming that, if anything is to go wrong with the
product, it will show up in that period of time.
Unfortunately, those measures have not provided sufficient protection for
all of you in the case of our earlier tambour doors, for some of them have
failed in the third year of use. In those instances, we have furnished our
newer cloth- backed tambour material (which is performing very well) at no
charge, allowing the customer to either make his own installation or pay his
dealer to make the installation.
Yet we still hear of Airstream owners who are having tambour door problems.
either because the material failed after three years of use or because you
weren't aware of the extension we had made to our basic warranty. Some of
you have made satisfactory repairs by gluing a cloth-type material to the
back of the broken tambour material; others have done the same thing using a
fiber impregnated or similar tape. We realize this has presented an
inconvenience to our customers, and would, therefore, like to take one more
step to help you if you are experiencing a tambour door problem today.
If you have owned your Airstream more than three years, we will supply
needed tambour material with the new cloth backing to you at one-half of our
current price, which at this time would be one-half of $1.95, or .98@ per
square foot sheet price. Shipping charges, as well as installation, would
still be a customer responsibility.
You may order through your participating Airstream dealer or, if you wish,
directly from the Airstream factory. If you order directly from the
factory, please include all necessary information; i.e.- serial number of
trailer, which doors, approximate size of each, and your name and address.
We will ship to you C.O.D. unless you prefer sending prepayment. If you
order in the West, address Phil Van Breemen, Service Manager, Airstream,
15939 Piuma Avenue, Cerritos, California, 90701. If you are in the East,
address Bill Van Horn, Service Manager, Airstream, West Pike Street, Jackson
Center, Ohio, 45334
What is a fair time limit on this offer? We think you should be able to take
advantage of this offer within the next twelve months or within forty-eight
months from original date of purchase, whichever is longer.
Remember, some of you with later models are still I covered by your original
two year warranty ... and some of you are still eligible for the no-charge
material which Airstream will supply during your third year of ownership.
We trust that this extra expression of our interest in your satisfaction
will resolve any remaining non-functioning tambour door problems.
Don E. Voss
National Director of Service
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 19:38:52 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '74 Argosy Help! List
David,
It sounds like your AC has a low freon charge. Suggest you contact a local
heating and cooling outfit to check it out for you
The original toilet in your coach would have been a Thetford Aqua Magic
Starlite low profile. Access to its innards are as follows:
Shut off and disconnect the water fittings on the back. Be sure to use double
wrenches on the copper fittings or you WILL twist the line. (been there, done
that).
Behind the pedals you will find a floor flange bolt with a 1/2" nut. Diagonally
across the toilet under that little round peep hole in the top of the toilet
(under the seat) you will be able to see the second bolt. A wrench works best
on the front nut and usually a wrench used while sighting through the hole
works on the rear nut.
Repair kits for the water valve and some individual parts are still available
for the Starlite series. And a few dealers still have some new old Starlites in
stock.
Charlie
"David W. Thompson" wrote:
> Hello, All:
>
> I took the new '74 Argosy to the Racine Co. Fair for a "dry run" to see how
> it would hold up under the duress of the family. We were showing our dairy
> goats (4 blues, a Grand Champion, a Best of Breed, and a Reserve
> Champion!). There are several things I'm seeking your advice on:
>
> 1. The air conditioner unit seems to be freezing up. Symptoms: Works great
> at night. In the morning, as the outside air warms, the a/c unit starts to
> lose effectiveness, cycles the compressor on and off more often, and
> eventually blows hot air. Do I need to clean the coil? If so, how do I
> access it? It seems to be original equipment, but I'm not sure.
>
> 2. Plumbing Issues: A previous owner let the unit freeze up, hard. I've
> already replaced the hot water heater, lots of pipe, and re-sweated many
> connections. It pretty much holds water until I turn on the valve sending
> water to the toilet and the shower. The toilet (a plastic number, foot
> flush) doesn't do anything, and there is a leak behind the cold side of the
> shower faucet. Probably another joint that's popped, but I see no way to
> access the fixture so that I can repair it! The plastic cowling seems to be
> caulked in place, with no access doors or screws to be found. How do I
> access the back of the shower faucet fixture? How do I get access to the
> toilet innards to see what's wrong there?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> David Thompson
> '74 Argosy
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 19:51:17 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Drain Valve
If the drain valve is original, it was crimp fitted into place and can not be
replaced as you were told.
The drain valve does not attach directly to the tank because the tank is set in
an enclosure that insulates it and allows for heat circulation inside the
enclosure. The outside valve is fitted to a short stub of water line which in
turn is fitted to a stub fitting on the tank itself. While this method was quick
and simple for production it is not a readily field repairable.
The simplest method is to access it directly by carefully cutting a 6" square
hole in the tank enclosure just inboard of the drain valve. This will allow full
access to the short fitting. Cut the crimp fittings off and replace the whole
thing with a piece of low pressure plastic hose with clamps at the tank and the
new valve.
Charlie
John Unbehaun wrote:
> The water holding tank valve made of white plastic snapped when I was trying
> to drain my water tank. This valve is located behind the tires on the
> passenger side.
> An Airstream Service Center sent a replacement valve and said to just take
> the two screws out, pull it out, and reconnect. I have pulled, pryed and
> put excessive force on the valve and it will not come out. Anymore force
> and it would just snap the entire valve off. Has anybody had any experience
> replacing these valves? I would appreciate any suggestions.
>
> My Wally Byam # is 16281.
>
> I have a '70 27 ft, an '85 32 ft, and a '93 34 ft--this happened on the '85.
>
> John Unbehaun email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 20:53:02 -0500
From: Shawn Clarry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: LPG Hose Replacement
My '63 Safari has the original Fisher LPG regulator and hoses. Can the
hoses be replaced to accommodate the new LPG tanks or do I have to replace
the regulator too?
Thanks,
Shawn Clarry
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 22:04:44 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin D Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> When you replaced the magnets was there an aggressiveness rating
> mentioned
I talked to an Airstream dealer today and he said that there is only one
kind of magnet to fit my trailer. So, it's back to the drawing board so to
speak. He told me to check for bad ground wires. So tomorrow I'm going to
run new ground wires directly to the magnets. If that fails, I'll run new
positive wires. If that doesn't work, I'm going to get very frustrated!
(but at least I'll have new wires).
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog
#15767
1971 Globe Trotter
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 22:31:19 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Vintage grey water
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I understand they have to blue tote tanks and will be getting one, but
what
> size? How often do you have to empty it? Is it a pain to deal with?
>
Tim:
It's pain to have to hook it up sometimes, especially if the site slopes up
and the back of the trailer is closer to the ground than the front of it is.
This leaves little room for the blue tank. Other than that, I'm pretty happy
with the tank. I don't like to have to carry it wherever we go, because you
have to put it somewhere while you are traveling.
We have a 15 gallon blue tank with wheels on it. When it fills up, I detach
it from the trailer, lash it to my trailer hitch, and drive it over to the
dump station (like a trailer!). Sometimes, I just walk it over there. 15
gallons of waste water weighs a lot! If there is no dump station, we have
a problem! In some ways, I like this system, because when the tank fills up,
I just need to move the blue tank ....I don't have to take the entire
trailer over to the dump station. The 15 gallon tank lasts several days (5
?) before it fills up, but you have to learn to be conservative. We take
showers as we have no bathtub. We've had two adults and five children (in
the past) using this.
If I had the time and ambition, I'd cobble a grey water tank into my trailer
somehow, even if it was only a 5 gallon tank or less, for those times when
you are traveling and you just want to wash off the forks and knives after
lunch ...or wash your hands before lunch. Now, we just let the waste water
leak to the ground. (I figure that this grey water is pretty clean compared
to a lot of stuff sitting in the road.)
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog
#15767
1963 Globe Trotter
1971 Globe Trotter
http://users.penn.com/~mweimer/weimer.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 20:03:07 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: LPG Hose Replacement
The fitting on the regulator end did not change, so you should just be able
to get new hoses. That's what I did when I went to OPD valves. No change
to the regulator.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 21:05:17 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: LPG Hose Replacement
The new tank valves still accept the old hoses, but if they are original
like the regulator they are unsafe from old age as is the regulator. All
should be replaced, the materials that do the work inside are not proof
from rotting in 39 years. Don't trust your life on rot.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 23:21:26 -0400
From: Dick Kenan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: LPG Hose Replacement
While it's a good idea to replace old rubber hoses, it's not
required - the new valves take both the old, LH threaded, pigtails and the
new "quick-connect" pigtails. So, you don't *have* to replace anything,
least of all the regulator. That said, it wouldn't be a bad idea to
replace the pigtails. See Camping World or Camper's Choice.
- Dick
(5368)
At 08:53 PM 7/30/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>My '63 Safari has the original Fisher LPG regulator and hoses. Can the
>hoses be replaced to accommodate the new LPG tanks or do I have to replace
>the regulator too?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Shawn Clarry
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
"God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over.
Why should you and I?"
-Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)
---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 22:47:46 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refinishing Bathroom Unit
Greetings Gary!
This may not answer your question if you are planning a do-it-yourself
project of refinishing your bath unit, but it is an alternative. I have
been facing this same situation with my '64 Overlander, and discussed it
with the plumbing and heating contractor who is working on a project at
my home. He referred me to a local refinisher who has excellent
references and recently discussed the project with me.
It seems that the same process used to refinish similar fiberglass
bathroom fixtures in homes will work in our Airstreams. The process is
guaranteed for five (5) years and is an epoxy/polymer that is sprayed on
in a three step process. There are a variety of colors available so it
is possible to choose another color if you are faced with a color you
can't tolerate, as I am with the avocado green in my Overlander.
I have been discussing this process with a number of local refinishers.
The most difficult part of the process is finding a contractor who will
consider refinishing a travel trailer. The two who finally personally
examined the job were pleased to find that an Airstream bath is more
spacious than in most of the competition. If you choose to pursue this
option, when speaking with refinishers, it might pay to omit reference
to travel trailer and just call it a trailer.
My trailer is scheduled to have its bath refinished in September in a
color that they call dove gray. I am confident based upon speaking with
others who have had household fiberglass fixtures refinished by this
contractor that my Airstream will turn out beautifully.
Good luck with your project!
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 6:39 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Refinishing Bathroom Unit
Hi guys, I'm back on the list after a few months off for
some other projects.
I'm just about ready to reinstall the rear bath unit on
my 70 Overlander. After cleaning all of the grunge and
crap off of the parts and panels, I find they have
faded, have stains that won't come out, and generally
don't match each other.
Does anyone know a good way to refinish these fiberglass
panels so that the new color/finish will hold up to
general maintenance (i.e. scrubbing the tub, sink, etc.)?
I don't want to just paint them, unless there is a
product that will stick.
Gary Murrell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'70 Overlander (presently gutted)
--
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 22:49:45 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 66 TradeWind Interior on ebay
Oh if I only lived closer! There is an interior for a 66 TradeWind for sale
on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1847327648
cabinets, fridge, lights, oven, plastic bins, bulkheads, sinks etc. Some
items look a little rough but "buy it now" price is only $200. These parts
are in SC.
If anyone closer buys this lot I would sure be interested in the stove.
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:13:36 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Dues?
Just a FYI to everyone.
I E-mailed Linda Moore asking when I could expect to receive a bill for my
VAC dues.
I received the following response from our new Membership Chairman, Wayne
Moore:
>To: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 09:08:15 -0500
>From: "Wayne A. Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Dues?
>
>Hi,
>
>I'm Wayne Moore, the new Membership Chairman for the
>VAC. The Renewal envelopes are late this year due to
>the increase in Membership and Subscription Rates
>voted in at the annual membership meeting at Rapid
>City, SD.
>The Dues and Subscription rate is now $20 per year.
>
>Your Renewal envelope will be sent to you in the
>upcoming issue of the Vintage Advantage.
>
>See ya down the road!
>
>WAM
>
>--- Original Message ---
>From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Dues?
>
> >Linda,
> >
> >The label on the last "Vintage Advantage" I received,
>Volume 9. Q1 2002,
> >Issue #!, says that my dues are paid till the end of
>July, 2002.
> >
> >I have not received a bill for my 2002/2003 VAC dues.
> >
> >Was one sent? if so, I never received it.
> >
> >Or am I just supposed to send you the $10?
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >______________________________________________________
>___________
> >Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >WBCCI: 5074
> >
> >1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> >Cincinnati, Ohio
> >
> >
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:41:22 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Refrigerator Cooling Units
Terry,
I have a "older" replacement refridgerator in my '64 Ambassador, the unit
is in good shape, however, the amonia absorbsion unit is tired, I hope I can
replace the cooling unit and keep the present box etc. I am very interested
in how you went about replacing the cooling unit, where you purchased the
parts etc.
TNX, 73, Mitch Hill - K1FH
'64 AS Ambassador
WBCCI #21960
==============
Hi Mitch,
Here's a follow-up to my earlier reply.
Cooling Units can be purchased from:
Midwest Products
1102 Avenue of Industry
Corning, Iowa 50841
800.331.7698
If you decide to do the job yourself, rattle their cage.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:18:40 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Drain Valve
Charlie it is a pleasure to read your responses to questions from the VAC
list. They provide a straight forward response backed with real technical
data and pure common sense directions. Thanks
Don Hardman
1976 31' Sovereign
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie/Betty Burke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 8:51 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Drain Valve
> If the drain valve is original, it was crimp fitted into place and can not
be
> replaced as you were told.
> The drain valve does not attach directly to the tank because the tank is
set in
> an enclosure that insulates it and allows for heat circulation inside the
> enclosure. The outside valve is fitted to a short stub of water line which
in
> turn is fitted to a stub fitting on the tank itself. While this method was
quick
> and simple for production it is not a readily field repairable.
> The simplest method is to access it directly by carefully cutting a 6"
square
> hole in the tank enclosure just inboard of the drain valve. This will
allow full
> access to the short fitting. Cut the crimp fittings off and replace the
whole
> thing with a piece of low pressure plastic hose with clamps at the tank
and the
> new valve.
>
> Charlie
>
> John Unbehaun wrote:
>
> > The water holding tank valve made of white plastic snapped when I was
trying
> > to drain my water tank. This valve is located behind the tires on the
> > passenger side.
> > An Airstream Service Center sent a replacement valve and said to just
take
> > the two screws out, pull it out, and reconnect. I have pulled, pryed
and
> > put excessive force on the valve and it will not come out. Anymore
force
> > and it would just snap the entire valve off. Has anybody had any
experience
> > replacing these valves? I would appreciate any suggestions.
> >
> > My Wally Byam # is 16281.
> >
> > I have a '70 27 ft, an '85 32 ft, and a '93 34 ft--this happened on the
'85.
> >
> > John Unbehaun email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 10:12:50 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Refinishing Bathroom Unit
Gary. The parts in your bathroom are plastic, not fiberglass. You can first
bleach them. If additional work is needed, you can polish the parts using a
rubbing compound and a buffer. That will allow you to cut into the material
ever so slightly, which most always, removes the ugly looks. As a final
attempt, you can wet sand into the plastic with 400 grit wet or dry, and then
finish the job with the compound.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 10:50:39 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
Proper operation of electric brakes requires more than just good parts. When
braking power becomes inadequate, without any obvious cause, head scratching
comes into play.
The real secret is to deglaze the lining AND drums. Scrub the lining in a
circular motion with at least 80 grit sandpaper. Do the same to the drum
face. Remount the drums, "AND," adjust the brakes.
Adjust them by tightening the brake adjuster until one hand cannot make the
tire turn. Back off the adjuster 3 to 5 turns. Recheck the free movement of
the tire. If it does not turn easily, back off another notch or two.
CAUTION: All the brakes on the coach must have the same adjustment. If not, a
brake pull can occur.
REMEMBER: One notch adjustment approximates 1000 miles of wear.
Simply having the proper voltage at the brake magnets, does not mean you will
have good brakes, unless, they are properly adjusted and that there is no
glaze on the brake shoes or drums. When everything is correct, 8 volts DC at
the magnets is enough to lock up the brakes.
With the much improved "oval magnet" brakes, many folks are experiencing
early brake lock up. That is easily corrected by installing the old style
"brake resistor block." The best unit is made by Kelsey Hayes, as it has
fixed settings. Each installation setting requires adjustment that will
consider all factors with your particular rig. The resistor block that has a
slider bar that is held in place with a wing nut is NOT recommended.
Corrosion does occur underneath the slider bar, which causes a very larger
increase in resistance and therefore a very large decrease in effective
braking.
In some climates, a monthly cleaning is required. This is not true for the
Kelsey Hayes unit, or the Hayes Axle unit.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 11:51:51 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Vintage Airstreaming Article
Greetings All!
I just received a collector car publication to which I subscribe that
has an interesting two-page article about the associated hobbies of
collector cars and vintage travel trailers. The article is found on
pages 72 and 73 of the September 2002 edition of CAR COLLECTOR magazine.
Featured photos include:
Vince Martinico's 1955 GMC with 1936 Airstream Clipper
Robert Tokarski's 1957 T-Bird with Ken and Diane Jackson's 1962 Safari
John Green's 1952 Silver Streek
Dennis and Sandra Weber's 1947 Ford Woody Wagon and 1967 Airstream
Globetrotter
Jim and Lynn Foster's 1947 Chevrolet and 1965 Caravel
The article is very short, but the photography is excellent
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 11:24:02 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Shower plumbing
In trying to seal a leak in the hot water side of my shower we discovered
that the "rosette" for the 5/8" valve stem was completely shot. Can't seem
to find one locally. Any pointers out there?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 12:21:44 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Shower plumbing
If there are no interior parts available for the shower plumbing fixtures,
than is a replacement unit available?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
> In trying to seal a leak in the hot water side of my shower we discovered
> that the "rosette" for the 5/8" valve stem was completely shot. Can't
seem
> to find one locally. Any pointers out there?
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 15:02:18 -0500
From: Dave Wessinger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
Tim,
When we first started using our AS non of our indicators worked properly,
but eventually they did...it seems "tank-gunk" tends to dry on the
contacts preventing them from working, but it "soaks" off.
My black tank fill-status is pretty easy to monitor, it's a straight shot
from the toilet to the tank...just push the footpedel and look in the
hole.
-dave
WBCCI#4217
(almost vintage) '79 31' Sovereign
(picking up in St. Louis tomorrow) '98 K2500 Suburban
Little Rock
On 7/30/2 7:03 PM VACList ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) said:
>------------------------------
>
>Message Number: 38
>Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:51:03 -0700
>From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Black tank leak!
>
>I hope it is as easy as a rubber seal. As long as they are still available.
>
>It only leaked when it was so full it would not longer flush. The next time
>I dumped it before it got that high. When it was full, by tank indicator
>only showed 1/2 full.
>
>It only took the three of us about 2 days to fill up the 14 gal tank. Good
>thing I was at a full hook up.
>
>-Tim
William D. Wessinger, Ph.D.
Associate Professor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Department of Pharmacology and Toxicology Phone: 501-686-5514
University of Arkansas for Medical Sciences Fax: 501-686-5521
4301 West Markham St., Slot 611
Little Rock, AR 72205-7199
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:18:42 -0400
From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
While we are talking about such things, I have a rather indelicate question. We used
our 1968 Caravel a couple of times before the water tank broke (another story) and had
a little trouble with black tank usage. Seems that the solid material formed a sowas
a kid, and I don't recall our ever having this problem.
Sorry for asking such a gross (and probably dumb) question!
Cynthia
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Wessinger [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 3:02 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
>
>
> Tim,
> When we first started using our AS non of our indicators
> worked properly,
> but eventually they did...it seems "tank-gunk" tends to dry on the
> contacts preventing them from working, but it "soaks" off.
>
> My black tank fill-status is pretty easy to monitor, it's a
> straight shot
> from the toilet to the tank...just push the footpedel and look in the
> hole.
>
> -dave
> WBCCI#4217
> (almost vintage) '79 31' Sovereign
> (picking up in St. Louis tomorrow) '98 K2500 Suburban
> Little Rock
> On 7/30/2 7:03 PM VACList ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) said:
>
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Message Number: 38
> >Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:51:03 -0700
> >From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Re: Black tank leak!
> >
> >I hope it is as easy as a rubber seal. As long as they are
> still available.
> >
> >It only leaked when it was so full it would not longer
> flush. The next time
> >I dumped it before it got that high. When it was full, by
> tank indicator
> >only showed 1/2 full.
> >
> >It only took the three of us about 2 days to fill up the 14
> gal tank. Good
> >thing I was at a full hook up.
> >
> >-Tim
>
>
> William D. Wessinger, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Department of Pharmacology and Toxicology Phone: 501-686-5514
> University of Arkansas for Medical Sciences Fax: 501-686-5521
> 4301 West Markham St., Slot 611
> Little Rock, AR 72205-7199
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 14:53:33 -0600
From: "Randy Unter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Cherokee RV and RM Rally
I'm tearing into the Sovereign to make it presentable for the RM Rally
crowd. I plan to park the '73 Sovereign face-to-face with my '66 Overlander,
pull out the Zip Dee awnings for the afternoon cocktail hour and let
everyone go through the Sovereign with suggestions. I originally planned to
sell the Overlander, but after spending a weekend in Cheyenne with my son, I
announced to my wife upon return that I was keeping both. She didn't resist;
she currently is using it at her English dressage event in Parker, CO and
loves those hot showers, sat dish and ac in the 100 degree weather. No
better place to cocoon. Here's why she acquiest: I bought it for... ready
now.... $1 (not a misprint, one dollar). Guy wanted it moved to build a
garage on his place in Wyoming. Skin good, as is cabnetry, but water, AC/DC
power systems were gone. I replaced the copper water system with CPVC hand
tighten plumbing and am elephant testing now. I pulled it home on the
original tires and bearings OK and had CW replace the tires with Marathon
radials, and new bearings.I've ordered baby moon hub caps from JC Whitney
(http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=14983&BQ=jcw2).
The door lockset/latch was broken, went to RV Salvage near Cherokee RV in
Denver, walked in the place, a lady across the room yelled, "early 70's
Airstream....we don't have one". So I'm going to run up to Cherokee this
afternoon and try to find one.
Had the pleasure of bumping into Bob and Shari Davis up at Terry Bison
Ranch and RV park and the Cheyenne Frontier Days last weekend. Just us two
a/s' taking in the buffalo herd and the largest rodeo in the world at CFD.
The Davis' will be at the RM Rally next week, and will also be featured in
an article in Denver's Rocky Mountain News 8/3 with Maxwell, their vintage
GT.
My son and I took a trail ride into a herd of Elk at Terry Bison's 43,000
acre ranch. Had to wait for the cows to find their calves to avoid being
charged as an earlier ride had experienced. Hard to believe this is only 2
hours from Denver. My son thought that was cooler than video games.
By the way, I still have a few spaces left for the RM rally at Elk Meadow
(http://www.elkmeadowrv.com/). Hopefully the elk won't charge us here, but
they are known to scoop up left out folding chairs in their antlers. The
fires are out and the place is beautiful. If you are anywhere in the
vacinity of Colorado and want to join a great group of VAC-ers, contact them
above for reservations, even for a night or two. Tell them you're with the
VAC and they'll put you with us. We're having fresh Fat Tires (the kind you
drink), courtesy of New Belgium Brewing from Fort Collins, who own a vintage
a/s, and Gosar Organic Brats and sausage from Chris and Jill Gosar of Monte
Vista, CO (and newly weds spending their honeymoon with us in their 1951
Flying Cloud (do you think they have other plans as well; we're not THAT
exciting?).
So, load'm and head'm up to Estes Park. VAC-ers from Florida to California
will be there.
Randy Unter
'66 Overlander
'73 Sovereign
2002 VAC RM Rally Wagon Master
VAC Region 11 Representative
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 17:02:31 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cherokee RV and RM Rally
Sure wish I could join you, but just can't get away right now. Great buy on
your 1973 A/S. As for the door lock I wonder if it is the same kind as is on
my 1976 Sovereign. I had Bob Jones at Bob Jones RV here in Houston replace
my old lock with one he had rebuilt. He gave me a real good deal and kept my
old lock to rebuild it. I bet he still has it. His phone number is
713-910-2949. Bob and his son Chris have been working on Airstreams for a
long time have a lot of older A/S parts in stock.
Don Hardman
1976 31" Sovereign
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Unter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 3:53 PM
Subject: [VAC] Cherokee RV and RM Rally
> I'm tearing into the Sovereign to make it presentable for the RM Rally
> crowd. I plan to park the '73 Sovereign face-to-face with my '66
Overlander,
> pull out the Zip Dee awnings for the afternoon cocktail hour and let
> everyone go through the Sovereign with suggestions. I originally planned
to
> sell the Overlander, but after spending a weekend in Cheyenne with my son,
I
> announced to my wife upon return that I was keeping both. She didn't
resist;
> she currently is using it at her English dressage event in Parker, CO and
> loves those hot showers, sat dish and ac in the 100 degree weather. No
> better place to cocoon. Here's why she acquiest: I bought it for... ready
> now.... $1 (not a misprint, one dollar). Guy wanted it moved to build a
> garage on his place in Wyoming. Skin good, as is cabnetry, but water,
AC/DC
> power systems were gone. I replaced the copper water system with CPVC hand
> tighten plumbing and am elephant testing now. I pulled it home on the
> original tires and bearings OK and had CW replace the tires with Marathon
> radials, and new bearings.I've ordered baby moon hub caps from JC Whitney
> (http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=14983&BQ=jcw2).
> The door lockset/latch was broken, went to RV Salvage near Cherokee RV in
> Denver, walked in the place, a lady across the room yelled, "early 70's
> Airstream....we don't have one". So I'm going to run up to Cherokee this
> afternoon and try to find one.
> Had the pleasure of bumping into Bob and Shari Davis up at Terry Bison
> Ranch and RV park and the Cheyenne Frontier Days last weekend. Just us two
> a/s' taking in the buffalo herd and the largest rodeo in the world at CFD.
> The Davis' will be at the RM Rally next week, and will also be featured in
> an article in Denver's Rocky Mountain News 8/3 with Maxwell, their vintage
> GT.
> My son and I took a trail ride into a herd of Elk at Terry Bison's 43,000
> acre ranch. Had to wait for the cows to find their calves to avoid being
> charged as an earlier ride had experienced. Hard to believe this is only 2
> hours from Denver. My son thought that was cooler than video games.
> By the way, I still have a few spaces left for the RM rally at Elk Meadow
> (http://www.elkmeadowrv.com/). Hopefully the elk won't charge us here, but
> they are known to scoop up left out folding chairs in their antlers. The
> fires are out and the place is beautiful. If you are anywhere in the
> vacinity of Colorado and want to join a great group of VAC-ers, contact
them
> above for reservations, even for a night or two. Tell them you're with the
> VAC and they'll put you with us. We're having fresh Fat Tires (the kind
you
> drink), courtesy of New Belgium Brewing from Fort Collins, who own a
vintage
> a/s, and Gosar Organic Brats and sausage from Chris and Jill Gosar of
Monte
> Vista, CO (and newly weds spending their honeymoon with us in their 1951
> Flying Cloud (do you think they have other plans as well; we're not THAT
> exciting?).
> So, load'm and head'm up to Estes Park. VAC-ers from Florida to California
> will be there.
>
> Randy Unter
> '66 Overlander
> '73 Sovereign
> 2002 VAC RM Rally Wagon Master
> VAC Region 11 Representative
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 14:57:13 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
Dear Cynthia,
It's been mentioned before but if you are using your unit in a full
hookup there can be a buildup of paper directly below the hole when the
shutoff valve is left open for long periods of time.
That's because the tank shape is such that there is a slight upward
slope before solid material goes into the sewer. The solution is to keep
the shutoff valve closed during routine usage and then opening periodically
with a good water flush especially with a long wand hooked up to a hose.
This is especially important for those of us who are in a permanent hookup.
The paper dries very quickly especially when only a little water is used to
flush and can mound up in no time.
To fix I would close valve and soak the mound at the bottom of the tank
overnight with a good tank cleaner.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
> While we are talking about such things, I have a rather indelicate
question. We used our 1968 Caravel a couple of times before the water tank
broke (another story) and had a little trouble with black tank usage. Seems
that the solid material formed a sort of pyramid directly below the hole, so
it appeared that we had filled it up when it actually was not filled, we
were just looking at the top of the pyramid. We started out with a gallon
of water plus chemicals. Would more water be required initially to help the
solid material slump down into the tank? More water while flushing? Ours
doesn't have a separate wand for spraying down the inside of the bowl. It
only holds 7 gallons, so we were trying to be frugal with flushing water so
as not to fill it up too quickly. I would think that everything would level
out while moving, but what if you stay put for a few days? We ended up
pushing it down with a stick (eeeyew!). My family used travel trailers for
vacations when I
> was a kid, and I don't recall our ever having this problem.
>
> Sorry for asking such a gross (and probably dumb) question!
> Cynthia
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 19:09:58 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Proper operation of electric brakes requires more than just good parts.
Thanks for the helpful info. I'll take my sand paper out to the trailer this
evening
>When
> braking power becomes inadequate, without any obvious cause, head
scratching
> comes into play.
Yes. I hope something works here before I go bald.
>When everything is correct, 8 volts DC at
> the magnets is enough to lock up the brakes.
I measured 9.85v at the magnets with the engine shut off. I got about 11
volts at the plug on the car. These readings should be higher with the
engine running. So, I should have enough voltage.
> With the much improved "oval magnet" brakes, many folks are experiencing
> early brake lock up.
My dealer told me that there's only one type of magnet for a '71 Globe
Trotter (single axle). The magnet I have is round. Would the "much improved"
oval magnets work on the old brakes?
>That is easily corrected by installing the old style
> "brake resistor block."
My Dad has to use one of these on his '67 Shasta 11 foot trailer. I don't
have one installed on my rig because my brakes have never been strong enough
to need one. I want these brakes to be better before we take off for the
Outer Banks in August! .... So, I'd best get out there and work on the
trailer instead of sitting here goofing around at the computer!
Thanks again.
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog
#15767
1971 Globe Trotter
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:42:42 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
Yep. That is exactly what I was telling my wife a few days ago.
The more we use the trailer, the better stuff will work. It is meant to be
used.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Wessinger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 1:02 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
> Tim,
> When we first started using our AS non of our indicators worked properly,
> but eventually they did...it seems "tank-gunk" tends to dry on the
> contacts preventing them from working, but it "soaks" off.
>
> My black tank fill-status is pretty easy to monitor, it's a straight shot
> from the toilet to the tank...just push the footpedel and look in the
> hole.
>
> -dave
> WBCCI#4217
> (almost vintage) '79 31' Sovereign
> (picking up in St. Louis tomorrow) '98 K2500 Suburban
> Little Rock
> On 7/30/2 7:03 PM VACList ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) said:
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #380
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
