VACList DigestVACList-Digest Saturday, August 3, 2002 Issue 383
Today's Topics:
1. air pump for water tank
2. Refrigerator Cooling Units
3. Suburban 6.2L diesel
4. Re: air pump for water tank
5. Re: air pump for water tank
6. Bubble question
7. Flatbed transport
8. '74 Argosy Ceiling Panel Removal/Installation
9. Update on TV antennae gear replacement
10. Re: air pump for water tank
11. Re: air pump for water tank
12. gas tanks again
13. Re: gas tanks again
14. Re: PAFB
15. Re: Update on TV antennae gear replacement
16. Re: air pump for water tank
17. Re: Update on TV antennae gear replacement
18. OLD AIRSTREAM CARAVAN FILMS ON DVD
19. Re: Update on TV antennae gear replacement
20. Re: Update on TV antennae gear replacement
21. Article in the Denver Rocky Mountain News
22. Re: gas tanks again
23. Re: gas tanks again
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 21:01:21 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: air pump for water tank
My '60 Overlander has an AIR pump to pressurize the water system (as opposed
to a WATER pump.) The system works great while connected to city water, but
while at a rest area recently we discovered that activation of the pump
immediately removes any remaining pressure in the whole system. It will not
pressurize the system at all. It is still making the same noises it always
has, but just not delivering the goods. I highly doubt that I can replace
the pump with a new one as I was told several years ago when purchasing this
one that they are no longer made. Does any one know where I can either get a
rebuild kit for a KJ Miller Corp 4000 12-VA air pump? Or is there some type
of business I should be looking for in my area that might be able to rebuild
it?
I would rather not have to replace it with a water pump at this time. I
looked into that possibility a few years back, the changes in plumbing that
would be required are more than I would like to tackle at this time.
Scott
Cleveland, OH
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 21:30:47 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Refrigerator Cooling Units
Way to go - Oh Esteemed Webmaster. That's a great website.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----------------
on 08/02/02 12:00 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> They have website with a dealers list and info:
> http://www.mwpcool.com/
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
> ----------
> On Wednesday, July 31, 2002, at 05:41 AM, Terry Tyler wrote:
>
> Hi Mitch,
>
> Here's a follow-up to my earlier reply.
>
> Cooling Units can be purchased from:
>
> Midwest Products
> 1102 Avenue of Industry
> Corning, Iowa 50841
> 800.331.7698
>
> If you decide to do the job yourself, rattle their cage.
>
> Terry
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>> Terry,
>>
>> I have a "older" replacement refridgerator in my '64 Ambassador, the
>> unit
>> is in good shape, however, the amonia absorbsion unit is tired, I hope
>> I can
>> replace the cooling unit and keep the present box etc. I am very
>> interested
>> in how you went about replacing the cooling unit, where you purchased
>> the
>> parts etc.
>>
>> TNX, 73, Mitch Hill - K1FH
>> '64 AS Ambassador
>> WBCCI #21960
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 22:51:24 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Suburban 6.2L diesel
on 08/02/02 3:59 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> It has run great for the past several weeks but has recently started getting
> airlocked. If I bleed the air out of the filter into a bottle it'll start
> and run fine. This started happening about a week ago and is getting more
> frequent now. Any ideas?
Hi Chyde,
If you haven't asked Bill Lynch, owner of B&A Diesel Service, Corinth, NY
(518.654.9740) for his opinion about fixing it, that's an option.
If he knew you could be bringing it to him for service, he might tell you
enough to enable you to fix it yourself. He's super busy and I suspect
would prefer that option. He's an extremely knowledgable guy who likes to
provide information when he can't take any new appointments for service or
has to cancel a long standing appointment at the last minute.
The latter is exactly what happened to me last week. I was at his place
(8am Monday morning) with an appointment. He couldn't fit me in due to
several emergencies that came in Sunday night with owners of diesel engine
trucks from other states who had million dollar horses to transport. They
needed to be at another race track in three days.
Bottom line - if you need service this winter when the Horse crowd (Saratoga
Race Track) is gone, you'll think of him and consider making the run down
from Plattsburgh. He's appreciative of all work from October to March.
It might be worth a phone call (7:50-7:55am is best time - just before his
employees arrive at 8am). Of course, you run the risk of him being grumpy
and not telling you anything. If that occurs, call him again the next
morning. <grin> You know the drill. He's your friend and you respect his
opinion. In fact, when you do meet him, that'll be the case.
One additional option is join the diesel engine owners club that I mentioned
in a previous post. You can do that with a phone call and credit card. Then,
you'd have your own private diesel engine specialist to consult on any day
of the week - for an entire year.
As I said before, that's what I do and it works smooth as silk - regardless
of where I am on the continent. It's a vastly different song and dance in
terms of getting the job done right the first time when my guy can talk
decisively to the diesel engine service man in East Podunk.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 20:05:00 -0700
From: "Sherry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: air pump for water tank
> Does any one know where I
> can either get a
> rebuild kit for a KJ Miller Corp 4000 12-VA air pump? Or is
> there some type
> of business I should be looking for in my area that might be
> able to rebuild
> it?
>
Me too. Mine just went out. I'm back to pressurizing mine with a tire pump
through the Schrader valve.
Happy Trails - Sherry
'63 Bambi, WBCCI 1104, VAC, WDCU, TCT
Scott wrote -
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 20:19:43 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: air pump for water tank
The original Grovers are still available. I bought one from a local
truck dealer for the flying cloud last year. I still like the air
compressor setups because they don't kick on and make noise every time
you use a little water to flush a toilet, rinse your hands or get a cup
of water. Those of you who dry camp know what I mean...
http://www.groverproducts.com/accessories.htm
RJ
On Friday, August 2, 2002, at 06:01 PM, Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> My '60 Overlander has an AIR pump to pressurize the water system (as
> opposed
> to a WATER pump.) The system works great while connected to city water,
> but
> while at a rest area recently we discovered that activation of the pump
> immediately removes any remaining pressure in the whole system. It will
> not
> pressurize the system at all. It is still making the same noises it
> always
> has, but just not delivering the goods. I highly doubt that I can
> replace
> the pump with a new one as I was told several years ago when purchasing
> this
> one that they are no longer made. Does any one know where I can either
> get a
> rebuild kit for a KJ Miller Corp 4000 12-VA air pump? Or is there some
> type
> of business I should be looking for in my area that might be able to
> rebuild
> it?
>
> I would rather not have to replace it with a water pump at this time. I
> looked into that possibility a few years back, the changes in plumbing
> that
> would be required are more than I would like to tackle at this time.
>
> Scott
> Cleveland, OH
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 21:58:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: airstream lover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bubble question
I was just wondering if I asked the question properly
about my Bubble. Is this reaching anyone? Thank you
AL
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 23:04:42 -0700
From: Brian Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Flatbed transport
Well the family is almost ready to move, but our '61 Bambi isn't.
I need to find someone who can flatbed it from the SF Bay area to
Eugene, Oregon.
Anyone out there have a recommendation? I'd love to hear it.
Cheers,
Brian
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 03:35:49 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: '74 Argosy Ceiling Panel Removal/Installation
Hi All,
I thought to share my experience with removal of the ceiling panel in my '74
Argosy.
After checking all the receptacles (missed the refrigerator, so I had VOM
continuity between hot, neutral, and ground) and obvious places where there
could be a short in the AC circuits, I decided it was necessary to drop the
ceiling panel to examine all wiring. The continuity check of isolated
sections of the AC circuit confirmed that the short was in the ceiling. I
reasoned that mice or abrasion had compromised the wiring insulation and
caused the apparent short. With the ceiling panel removed, I found that the
air conditioner installers had pinched the AC power line between a wood
spacer and the outer skin. The wood spacer is held in place with screws
punched from the outside. Of course, the screws were driven through the AC
power line in several places. Most likely the owner never knew about the
neutral and ground being shorted.
But, my house GFI knew!
A GFI opens when there's a difference between the current in the neutral and
the hot lines. When the neutral also uses the ground to share the current,
there's a considerable difference betwen the current in the hot and the
neutral.
In travel trailers, I understand that the neutral floats; whereas, in a
home the neutral and ground are connected at the electrical panel. In the
case of my Argosy, I believe that wet ground and "ME" could form an
alternative path to ground for the neutral current. Under the right
circumstance, "ME" could have a shocking experience.
The ceiling panel is one piece, about 15 feet long and is bowed into a trim
strip on each edge. After removal of all holding rivets, lamps, vent
screens, and the inner air conditioning shroud, I tried bowing the middle
downward to slip one edge out of the channel. Only partially successful and
damaged the edge. Even worse, one end is sandwiched between the bathroom
bulk head and the roof - meaning that it had to be driven out from the
bulkhead so the panel could be bowed for removal. I found that many of the
trim strip rivets were compromised between the bathroom bulkhead and the
airconditioner. This made removal much easier than if the rivets were
fastened properly.
I opted to cut the panel across the center of the front vent and the air
conditioner openings. The width of the panel with the cut-out is only about
6 inches and was simple to make the cut. Well, the last half inch of the
cut wasn't all that easy. This made each section about 5 to 6 feet long and
could be handled with some difficulty. At each cut, I removed 1/8 inch to
allow insertion of plastic trim intended to butt the panels together. The
trim is about 3/4 inch wide on the exposed side and 1-1/2 inches wide on the
hidden side. I used white as it was the only color available. I'm sure
Home Depot or other well stocked building supply stores would have several
colors.
On reassembly, the screw/rivet fasteners along the vent opening seem
adequate to restore the structural strength that might be involved with the
inner skin.
BTW, I tried using modern duct tape to hold the wiring in place so I could
reinstall insulation and the ceiling panel sections. Unfortunately, duct
tape has a max working temperature of 170 degrees and wouldn't hold the
wires for more than a few minutes. I opted to use an aluminum tape that
held fast in the ceiling heat. The aluminum is not thick enough to
compromise the insulation of the wiring. I was surprised as both types of
tape have identical temperature performance?
I had to use R-11 fiberglas batts, nominal 4 inches thick to stuff into the
2 inch space between the inner and outer skins. Results in poor insulation,
but I couldn't find insulation any thinner. I didn't want to spray contact
cement on everything to hold the batts in position, so I bowed wood between
the trim strips to hold the insulation in place while I reinstalled the
ceiling panels. Once one edge of a section of ceiling panel was insterted
in the trim strip, I removed the bowed wood. Not very neat, but it worked.
The removal of the ceiling is a nasty task, but . . .
Hope these "doing it my way" experiences with the Argosy ceiling panel helps
other restorers to work smart and make a similar repair with confidence that
it can be done. :)
'74 Argosy, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 03:36:10 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Update on TV antennae gear replacement
Hi All,
Thanks to the recommendations from the list, I was able to purchase the gear
replacement for the TV antennae on the '74 Argosy.
However, the original antennae is weathered and might need replacement.
Previous list responses informed me that leaving the antennae is useful.
This begs another question. Is it worthwhile to replace the original
antennae with a like unit, or should I move on to a Batwing type antennae?
'74 Argosy, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 04:39:15 -0400
From: Matt Worner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: air pump for water tank
Scott,
Have you tried dis-assembling the compressor and checking for a leaky check
valve? Sounds like that is the problem. Small compressors typically have reed
valves for this purpose, and they may be stock items at an industrial supplies
vendor.
Matt
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> My '60 Overlander has an AIR pump to pressurize the water system (as opposed
> to a WATER pump.) The system works great while connected to city water, but
> while at a rest area recently we discovered that activation of the pump
> immediately removes any remaining pressure in the whole system. It will not
> pressurize the system at all. It is still making the same noises it always
> has, but just not delivering the goods. I highly doubt that I can replace
> the pump with a new one as I was told several years ago when purchasing this
> one that they are no longer made. Does any one know where I can either get a
> rebuild kit for a KJ Miller Corp 4000 12-VA air pump? Or is there some type
> of business I should be looking for in my area that might be able to rebuild
> it?
>
> I would rather not have to replace it with a water pump at this time. I
> looked into that possibility a few years back, the changes in plumbing that
> would be required are more than I would like to tackle at this time.
>
> Scott
> Cleveland, OH
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
Pam, Matt and Darrell Worner
WBCCI, VAC, WNJU & WDCU #4971
1975 31' Sovereign, (The Tinsel Tubesteak)
1976 24' Argosy rear door (Bun Metallica)
2000 F-350 PSD
Hensley Arrow
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 04:44:15 -0400
From: Matt Worner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: air pump for water tank
Scott,
Another thought is one of those tire pump thingies as a temporary fix. They are
low volume, high pressure and very noisy, but at least you could pressurize the
system. Does your trailer have the Schraeder valve in the fill cap? If so you
can leave the noisy compressor outside and just hook it up when you run out of
pressure.
FWIW,
Matt
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> My '60 Overlander has an AIR pump to pressurize the water system (as opposed
> to a WATER pump.) The system works great while connected to city water, but
> while at a rest area recently we discovered that activation of the pump
> immediately removes any remaining pressure in the whole system. It will not
> pressurize the system at all. It is still making the same noises it always
> has, but just not delivering the goods. I highly doubt that I can replace
> the pump with a new one as I was told several years ago when purchasing this
> one that they are no longer made. Does any one know where I can either get a
> rebuild kit for a KJ Miller Corp 4000 12-VA air pump? Or is there some type
> of business I should be looking for in my area that might be able to rebuild
> it?
>
> I would rather not have to replace it with a water pump at this time. I
> looked into that possibility a few years back, the changes in plumbing that
> would be required are more than I would like to tackle at this time.
>
> Scott
> Cleveland, OH
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
Pam, Matt and Darrell Worner
WBCCI, VAC, WNJU & WDCU #4971
1975 31' Sovereign, (The Tinsel Tubesteak)
1976 24' Argosy rear door (Bun Metallica)
2000 F-350 PSD
Hensley Arrow
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 09:04:50 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: gas tanks again
I bought new tanks for my GT as the old ones were pretty grungy looking and
nothing that I wanted to save. The 74 Sovereign that I just bought has nice
looking big tanks that look good. I don't remember all the details on
getting OPD devices installed. Is the best place to go a gas company that
brings tanks to your home? Or is this something that an RV place does?
Thanks for any information/opinions on this matter.
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 09:33:30 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: gas tanks again
At 09:04 AM 8/3/2002 -0400, Just Plain Polly wrote:
>I don't remember all the details on
>getting OPD devices installed. Is the best place to go a gas company that
>brings tanks to your home? Or is this something that an RV place does?
>Thanks for any information/opinions on this matter.
Your best bet is at a LP gas distributor. I found a local one who installed
the new valves for $13 each, plus the cost of a refill.
All the RV places just told me to buy new tanks....
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 09:35:58 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: PAFB
> Thanks very much to everyone who convinced me to purchase this tow
vehicle.
> I live and run a vehicle development business on the former Plattsburgh
Air
> Base in Upstate NY.
Hi Colin:
Can't help you with the Suburban, but I'm glad to see that there is
activity on the PAFB. I lived in Champlain and Rouses Point for three
years while working for the US Immigration Service at the border
crossing in Champlain, RP, and Mooers. I had friends on the AFB
and have fond memories of the great fireworks displays on July 4.
DH and I at one time had thought about settling in the P'burgh
area as we loved the high country, but settled 80 miles northeast
of the other P'burgh (Pitts, that is). We try to get back to the ADKs
every few years. The last time we left our Airstream at the new
ice arena and drove up the Whiteface Memorial Hwy with our
tow car. I still miss the mountains.
Becky Weimer
Punxsutawney, PA
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 09:35:30 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Update on TV antennae gear replacement
Greetings Joy!
I can't comment on the difference between the traditional mast and the
batwing style antennas as the mast antenna was missing when I purchased
my Overlander. Last Winter, I had Ace Fogdall RV install a new batwing
style antenna on the roof of my Overlander. While I have spoken with a
number of people who didn't think that the batwing was as good as the
traditional mast style, I have been completely satisfied with my unit.
I think part of the satisfaction may arise from the fact that the unit
installed has an integrated amplifier that was a part of this unit.
Good luck with your project!
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Mr Joy H Hansen
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 1:36 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Update on TV antennae gear replacement
Hi All,
Thanks to the recommendations from the list, I was able to purchase the
gear
replacement for the TV antennae on the '74 Argosy.
However, the original antennae is weathered and might need replacement.
Previous list responses informed me that leaving the antennae is useful.
This begs another question. Is it worthwhile to replace the original
antennae with a like unit, or should I move on to a Batwing type
antennae?
'74 Argosy, Joy
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 11:52:46 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: air pump for water tank
Air compressors are still available. However, they cost about the same as a
demand pump. Converting the water system from pressure to demand is not
difficult or expensive. You add the demand water pump, one check valve, drill
a small vent hole in the fill cap and your done. The water pump lines are put
in series with the water tank outlet tubing. The check valve goes into the
output side of the pump. Takes less than 30 minutes to do it. If you have to
look for tools too, then maybe 45 minutes.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 12:03:57 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Update on TV antennae gear replacement
Joy. Because of the air flow over the top of the shell, bat wings will
normally cut holes into the roof, because they flutter from the air currents.
Staying with the original Braun antenna gives more directional sensitivity.
If you installed the Braun that has a built in amplifier, your fringe area
reception will vastly improve.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 10:21:30 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: OLD AIRSTREAM CARAVAN FILMS ON DVD
The Vintage Airstream Club (VAC), an intra-club of the
Wally Byam Caravan Club International (WBCCI), proudly
announces a new Vintage Airstream Club product, nine old
Wally Byam Airstream Caravan movies on Digital Video Disc
(DVD). The two disc DVD set, "Airstream Caravan Movies on
DVD," will officially be released at the Second Annual Rocky
Mountain Rally of the Vintage Airstream Club held in Estes
Park, Colorado from August 7 to 10, 2002. The price is
$40.00 for the two disc DVD set.
The title, year made, and running time in
(minutes:seconds) for each color movie in this DVD set is:
1. Building Dreams is our Business (1968) (19:02)
2. Mexico Caravan (1956) (23:33)
3. Capetown to Cairo (1959-60) (47:57)
4. Around the World Caravan, S.E. Asia (1963-64) (23:07)
5. Around the World Caravan, India Part I (1963-64) (22:44)
6. Around the World Caravan, India Part II (1963-64)(23:00)
7. Around the World Caravan, Middle East (1963-64) (23:16)
8. Around the World Caravan, Europe (1963-64) (23:29), and
9. Guatemala (1966) (24:53).
You no longer have to buy and restore a vintage 16 mm.
film projector and struggle with an old roll-up movie screen
to enjoy the exciting Airstream Caravans of yesteryear.
Experience firsthand in the comfort of your Airstream, or at
home, 3 hours and 51 minutes of trailer travel in the "old
days" as Wally Byam and his adventuresome band of
Caravanners conquer the world in their rugged Airstreams.
Narration by Jose Ferrer, Vincent Price and Ricardo
Montablan complete the period touch that whisks you back to
the Golden Years of caravanning. All movies are in color,
but due to the inexpensive original master film stock used
movies 3 to 8 above, their color permanently has shifted to
magenta (but you will enjoy them nonetheless).
The two disc DVD set is also available by mail in the USA
for $40.00 plus $2.00 for first class postage and
packaging. U.S.A. residents may mail a check or money order
for $42.00 payable to the "Vintage Airstream Club" to:
Linda Moore
VAC Treasurer
131 Castle Hill Road
P.O. Box 4173
Windham, NH 03087
along with your name and mailing address. The DVD set will
be mailed to you beginning the week of August 12th, 2002.
If you absolutely have to be the first on your block to own
this educational DVD set, come join the VAC at our Rocky
Mountain Rally next week and buy one in person.
We have experienced some problems getting older Toshiba
brand computers to play similar DVD discs, but otherwise
they seem to play well on most every DVD player or DVD drive
equipped computer configured to operate in the U.S.A.
Compatibility with non-USA DVD formats is an unknown yet
to be determined. If you live outside the U.S.A, you
probably already know more about compatibility or
noncompatibility than we do. Please contact Fred Coldwell
at [EMAIL PROTECTED] to discuss DVD compatibility with, and
postage charges to, other countries.
If you have a question concerning payment, please contact
VAC Treasurer, Linda Moore, by E-mail at
[EMAIL PROTECTED] or by regular mail at her address
above.
We hope you enjoy this latest benefit provided by the
Vintage Airstream Club!
Fred Coldwell
VAC Archive Historian
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 11:33:41 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Update on TV antennae gear replacement
On Sat, 3 Aug 2002 12:03:57 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Joy. Because of the air flow over the top of the shell, bat wings will
>normally cut holes into the roof, because they flutter from the air currents.
that is very interesting, is that statement the result of your dealing ONLY with
poorly installed antennae on rubber roofed tupperwares??
fyi, I have had a batwing on top of my trailer for 4 yrs and Lord only knows how
long before that. if you run it down to lock down and have your leade run
correctly, you will have nothing other than possibly some polishing from the
antenna leade running across the roof and into the trailer thru the side, and
that only if the leade is poorly installed.
iow, I take full exception to your statement.
And, I think that a lot of others here will bely your comments as well.
fwiw
--
Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T '76 Sovereign
www.schuetzen.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 13:57:26 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Update on TV antennae gear replacement
Joy,
Here are a couple things to throw into the thought process. With careful
shopping virtually all the plastic parts are still available for the Skyliner.
The basic design of the antenna while extended is the most efficient design
possible (just like a house antenna) and is directionally more sensitive that
any other option. The Skyliner uses an "inline" signal amplifier that can be
turned on/off as it is needed.
The most common replacement Winegard "batwing" antenna uses an amplifier in the
antenna head to make up for the less effective antenna design. In most cases it
is necessary to turn on the power supply to get a signal. The module in the wall
is actually a power supply which puts 12V on the coax line to the antenna. This
12V powers the amplifier in the head. The TV signal travels back down the coax
and is "picked" off the line and distributed to the TV. Ain't science wonderful?
The main concern on older coach antenna's is common to both antennae, whether
you keep one or replace it with the other. That is the original signal wire,
which is 300 ohm flat lead. While Airstream used the really good stuff, even it
won't last for ever. Virtually any coach that still has the old style wiring is
losing signal. It is possible to replace the deteriorated wire without pulling
all of it out of the wall. This is done by opening up the entry plate on the
roof, pulling some of the slack up, converting it to 75 Ohm coax with a balun
transformer and tucking it back into the roof and resealing it with LOTS of
Vulkem. A new antenna will have coax on it and the old antenna can be converted.
Charlie
"Mr. Joy H. Hansen" wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Thanks to the recommendations from the list, I was able to purchase the gear
> replacement for the TV antennae on the '74 Argosy.
>
> However, the original antennae is weathered and might need replacement.
> Previous list responses informed me that leaving the antennae is useful.
> This begs another question. Is it worthwhile to replace the original
> antennae with a like unit, or should I move on to a Batwing type antennae?
>
> '74 Argosy, Joy
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 13:57:49 -0600
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Article in the Denver Rocky Mountain News
Here's a link to a Vintage Trailer article that ran in the Denver Rocky
Mountain News this morning...
http://www.rockymountainnews.com/drmn/living/0,1299,DRMN_5,00.html
Enjoy!
Rob & Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
"Maxwell"
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 15:07:14 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: gas tanks again
I had mine done at a gasoline station that filled propane tanks. Many
places that refill and inspect tanks probably has the new valves.
Changing isn't a big deal, when the tank is empty, unscrew the old, put
some suitable pipe dope on the threads of the new valve and screw it in.
Check to see the threads don't leak. Refill.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 16:38:24 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: gas tanks again
> I had mine done at a gasoline station that filled propane tanks. Many
> places that refill and inspect tanks probably has the new valves.
> Changing isn't a big deal, when the tank is empty, unscrew the old, put
> some suitable pipe dope on the threads of the new valve and screw it in.
> Check to see the threads don't leak. Refill.
>
> Gerald J.
Hi there Dr. J
Assuming that you did manage to get the old valve out (inventing a means of
restraining the tank while unscrewing the valve with a crows foot wrench and
a breaking bar) and installing the new valve (using the DOT approved
sealant, which is a special hard material), how would you propose that one
should perform that leak check with an empty tank?
And what of recertifying the tank after the pressure boundary has been
breached?
Not so simple, I think. You wouldn't want us to do something that is
neither safe nor legal, would you?
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #383
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