VACList DigestVACList-Digest Thursday, August 1, 2002 Issue 381
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Paper Backed Tambour Doors
2. (no subject)
3. Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
4. Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
5. Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
6. Re: Proper toilet replacement for '74
7. Re: Proper toilet replacement for '74
8. Re: Stove
9. Re: Shower plumbing
10. Re: Stove
11. Re: Stove
12. Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
13. Re: Indelicate Answer
14. Re: Indelicate Answer
15. Re: Sewer Solution, was Indelicate Answer
16. Airstream Bubble 1957
17. Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
18. Re: Indelicate Answer
19. Re: Indelicate Answer
20. Re: Indelicate Answer
21. Re: Indelicate Answer
22. Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
23. Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
24. Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
25. Re: Indelicate Answer?
26. Re: Indelicate Answer?
27. Re: Stove
28. Re: Stove
29. Re: Sewer Solution, was Indelicate Answer
30. Re: Stove
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 19:01:51 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Paper Backed Tambour Doors
I guess that explains why my 71 sovereign has cloth Tambours. thanks for the
investigation
gina
>From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Paper Backed Tambour Doors
>Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 20:56:36 -0400
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>
>A few days ago there was a thread about tambour doors in the early 70s
>trailers that come apart and require repairs or replacement. I was looking
>through some of my old Airstream files that I had when I owned a ' 72
>Tradewind. I came across this letter from the National Service Director
>for
>Airstream in 1975 which discusses the problem and Airstream's response to
>the problem. I thought it might be of interest so I scanned it into a word
>file and copied it below. I also found where I had ordered new replacement
>tambour material that I installed in the ' 72 Tradewind.
>
>Jim Greene
>' 68 Tradewind
>
>NORTH DIXIE HIGHWAY. SIDNEY. OHIO 45365 - TELEPHONE (AREA CODE 513)
>492-9175
>
> November 10, 1975
>
>Dear Airstream Owner;
>
>I am writing to you concerning the rolling tambour door material used in
>your Airstream travel trailer. I'd like to write each of you
>personally;-but
>since I am contacting every owner of 1970 to 1974 Airstreams, please accept
>this form letter.
>
>When we select a new material or component for use in an Airstream, we rely
>on the advice of the manufacturer and our own pre-testing program to prove
>its applicability. Then we provide a two year unlimited warranty on that
>material or component assuming that, if anything is to go wrong with the
>product, it will show up in that period of time.
>
>Unfortunately, those measures have not provided sufficient protection for
>all of you in the case of our earlier tambour doors, for some of them have
>failed in the third year of use. In those instances, we have furnished our
>newer cloth- backed tambour material (which is performing very well) at no
>charge, allowing the customer to either make his own installation or pay
>his
>dealer to make the installation.
>
>Yet we still hear of Airstream owners who are having tambour door problems.
>either because the material failed after three years of use or because you
>weren't aware of the extension we had made to our basic warranty. Some of
>you have made satisfactory repairs by gluing a cloth-type material to the
>back of the broken tambour material; others have done the same thing using
>a
>fiber impregnated or similar tape. We realize this has presented an
>inconvenience to our customers, and would, therefore, like to take one more
>step to help you if you are experiencing a tambour door problem today.
>
>If you have owned your Airstream more than three years, we will supply
>needed tambour material with the new cloth backing to you at one-half of
>our
>current price, which at this time would be one-half of $1.95, or .98@ per
>square foot sheet price. Shipping charges, as well as installation, would
>still be a customer responsibility.
>
>You may order through your participating Airstream dealer or, if you wish,
>directly from the Airstream factory. If you order directly from the
>factory, please include all necessary information; i.e.- serial number of
>trailer, which doors, approximate size of each, and your name and address.
>We will ship to you C.O.D. unless you prefer sending prepayment. If you
>order in the West, address Phil Van Breemen, Service Manager, Airstream,
>15939 Piuma Avenue, Cerritos, California, 90701. If you are in the East,
>address Bill Van Horn, Service Manager, Airstream, West Pike Street,
>Jackson
>Center, Ohio, 45334
>
>What is a fair time limit on this offer? We think you should be able to
>take
>advantage of this offer within the next twelve months or within forty-eight
>months from original date of purchase, whichever is longer.
>
>Remember, some of you with later models are still I covered by your
>original
>two year warranty ... and some of you are still eligible for the no-charge
>material which Airstream will supply during your third year of ownership.
>
>We trust that this extra expression of our interest in your satisfaction
>will resolve any remaining non-functioning tambour door problems.
>
>Don E. Voss
>National Director of Service
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:13:05 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: (no subject)
Mark. The oval magnets cannot be substituted for the round magnets.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 19:28:27 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
there is "gunk" remover you can get at camper world to help with that but I
use the same gauge dave does. also limit the amount of water you put in the
toilet and put water in the toilet first before you go "#2" saves water.and
space
gina
>From: Dave Wessinger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 15:02:18 -0500
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>
>Tim,
>When we first started using our AS non of our indicators worked properly,
>but eventually they did...it seems "tank-gunk" tends to dry on the
>contacts preventing them from working, but it "soaks" off.
>
>My black tank fill-status is pretty easy to monitor, it's a straight shot
>from the toilet to the tank...just push the footpedel and look in the
>hole.
>
>-dave
>WBCCI#4217
>(almost vintage) '79 31' Sovereign
>(picking up in St. Louis tomorrow) '98 K2500 Suburban
>Little Rock
>On 7/30/2 7:03 PM VACList ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) said:
>
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Message Number: 38
> >Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:51:03 -0700
> >From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Re: Black tank leak!
> >
> >I hope it is as easy as a rubber seal. As long as they are still
>available.
> >
> >It only leaked when it was so full it would not longer flush. The next
>time
> >I dumped it before it got that high. When it was full, by tank indicator
> >only showed 1/2 full.
> >
> >It only took the three of us about 2 days to fill up the 14 gal tank.
>Good
> >thing I was at a full hook up.
> >
> >-Tim
>
>
>William D. Wessinger, Ph.D.
>Associate Professor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Department of Pharmacology and Toxicology Phone: 501-686-5514
>University of Arkansas for Medical Sciences Fax: 501-686-5521
>4301 West Markham St., Slot 611
>Little Rock, AR 72205-7199
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 19:32:16 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
now thats what I call ingenuity!!!!!! there is a wand you can get at
camperworld to flush it out if it gets petrified. good luck!!
gina
>From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:18:42 -0400
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>
>While we are talking about such things, I have a rather indelicate
>question. We used our 1968 Caravel a couple of times before the water tank
>broke (another story) and had a little trouble with black tank usage.
>Seems that the solid material formed a sort of pyramid directly below the
>hole, so it appeared that we had filled it up when it actually was not
>filled, we were just looking at the top of the pyramid. We started out
>with a gallon of water plus chemicals. Would more water be required
>initially to help the solid material slump down into the tank? More water
>while flushing? Ours doesn't have a separate wand for spraying down the
>inside of the bowl. It only holds 7 gallons, so we were trying to be
>frugal with flushing water so as not to fill it up too quickly. I would
>think that everything would level out while moving, but what if you stay
>put for a few days? We ended up pushing it down with a stick (eeeyew!).
>My family used travel trailers for vacations when I
>was a kid, and I don't recall our ever having this problem.
>
>Sorry for asking such a gross (and probably dumb) question!
>Cynthia
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dave Wessinger [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 3:02 PM
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> > Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank leak! (tank indicator)
> >
> >
> > Tim,
> > When we first started using our AS non of our indicators
> > worked properly,
> > but eventually they did...it seems "tank-gunk" tends to dry on the
> > contacts preventing them from working, but it "soaks" off.
> >
> > My black tank fill-status is pretty easy to monitor, it's a
> > straight shot
> > from the toilet to the tank...just push the footpedel and look in the
> > hole.
> >
> > -dave
> > WBCCI#4217
> > (almost vintage) '79 31' Sovereign
> > (picking up in St. Louis tomorrow) '98 K2500 Suburban
> > Little Rock
> > On 7/30/2 7:03 PM VACList ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) said:
> >
> > >------------------------------
> > >
> > >Message Number: 38
> > >Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:51:03 -0700
> > >From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Subject: Re: Black tank leak!
> > >
> > >I hope it is as easy as a rubber seal. As long as they are
> > still available.
> > >
> > >It only leaked when it was so full it would not longer
> > flush. The next time
> > >I dumped it before it got that high. When it was full, by
> > tank indicator
> > >only showed 1/2 full.
> > >
> > >It only took the three of us about 2 days to fill up the 14
> > gal tank. Good
> > >thing I was at a full hook up.
> > >
> > >-Tim
> >
> >
> > William D. Wessinger, Ph.D.
> > Associate Professor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Department of Pharmacology and Toxicology Phone: 501-686-5514
> > University of Arkansas for Medical Sciences Fax: 501-686-5521
> > 4301 West Markham St., Slot 611
> > Little Rock, AR 72205-7199
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> > original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 18:11:51 -0700
From: "Sherry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
I usually buy a bag of ice either before I go out or somewhere on the road.
The whole bag never fits my freezer compartment, so I pour the rest down the
toilet. As I'm driving down the road the ice is knocking against the sides
of the black-water tank, knocking off the "stuff."
Happy Trails - Sherry
'63 Bambi, WBCCI 1104, VAC, WDCU, TCT
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:26:45 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Proper toilet replacement for '74
on 07/26/02 11:15 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Is this an alternative that experienced Airstreamers use to
> conserve water?
An empty Windex bottle filled with water provides a spray or a "scrubber"
solid stream of water.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 19:37:02 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Proper toilet replacement for '74
You can buy new spray bottles in the garden department at Walmart for 79
cents to $2 each. They should be a little cleaner than a used windex
bottle.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:26:23 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stove
on 07/28/02 2:33 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I need to replace the Magic Chef stove in my '71 Safari. An A/S dealer said
> any gas stove which fit the space would be OK. I found an apartment size
> stove which would fit but the pilot light in the oven has to stay on. You
> can't turn it off. Hence that wouldn't work. Also I think that you would have
> to convert it somehow to work off LP gas instead of natural.
Hi Jeanne,
Your comment, "You can't turn it off" means it can't be turned off with the
plumbing as it's installed now. Pardon my ignorance, but why can't you just
put in a shut off valve - and that will settle that hash? Turn it on, turn
it off - your choice.
As far as having "to convert it somehow to working off LP gas instead of
natural," that's an adjustment any gas service man can make - if indeed, one
needs to be made.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:53:14 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Shower plumbing
Bob, I think that might be a Moen part ? You may need a real plumbing
supply house, as opposed to Home Despot.
Daisy
My Airstream wrote:
>
> In trying to seal a leak in the hot water side of my shower we discovered
> that the "rosette" for the 5/8" valve stem was completely shot. Can't seem
> to find one locally. Any pointers out there?
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 00:20:07 -0400
From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stove
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
: As far as having "to convert it somehow to working off LP gas instead
of
: natural," that's an adjustment any gas service man can make - if
indeed, one
: needs to be made.
:
: Terry
You can easily convert an LP gas line to Natuarl Gas by making the
orifice larger. That is, where the gas enters the appliance the hole is
ever so slightly increased I believe one drill size.
But, to convert from Natural Gas to LP you will need to purchase a new
orifice, one that is smaller or just the opposite as I explained above.
That's my understanding of how these things work.
Tom
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 09:12:08 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stove
on 08/01/02 12:20 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] : As far as having "to convert it somehow to
> working off LP gas instead of : natural," that's an adjustment any gas service
> man can make - if indeed, one needs to be made. : : Terry
>
> You can easily convert an LP gas line to Natuarl Gas by making the orifice
> larger. That is, where the gas enters the appliance the hole is ever so
> slightly increased I believe one drill size.
>
> But, to convert from Natural Gas to LP you will need to purchase a new
> orifice, one that is smaller or just the opposite as I explained above. That's
> my understanding of how these things work.
>
> Tom
>
============
Tom, thanks for the clarification. When I read how Jeanne was ready to
discount the stove she found locally, I balked at the idea. Opportunities
are sometimes hard to come by and in her case, it seemed like this could be
a good one with minor modifications easily accomplished.
Jeanne, if you're reading the mail, I hope this helps.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
===============
on 07/28/02 2:33 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I need to replace the Magic Chef stove in my '71 Safari. An A/S dealer said
> any gas stove which fit the space would be OK. I found an apartment size
> stove which would fit but the pilot light in the oven has to stay on. You
> can't turn it off. Hence that wouldn't work. Also I think that you would have
> to convert it somehow to work off LP gas instead of natural.
Hi Jeanne,
Your comment, "You can't turn it off" means it can't be turned off with the
plumbing as it's installed now. Pardon my ignorance, but why can't you just
put in a shut off valve - and that will settle that hash? Turn it on, turn
it off - your choice.
As far as having "to convert it somehow to working off LP gas instead of
natural," that's an adjustment any gas service man can make - if indeed, one
needs to be made.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 10:28:31 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
Seems to me I remember someone suggesting putting in ice cubes along with the
enzimes in the black tank and driving around the block a few times??
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 13:29:55 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer
Cynthia, you need to use more water when operating the toilet. I got a
Sewer Solution, which besides being much less messy, has the ability to
rinse the black tank by shooting a stream of high pressure water back into
the tank to finish the clean out after opening the dump valve and forcing
the contents out of the tank. Before I had the Sewer Solution I had a toilet
"wand" (I think it's called) for rinsing out the tank. Another suggestion
you might consider if you have a build up in the black tank is to pour a bag
of ice in the tank before starting on a trip. The motion of the trailer
moves the ice around inside the tank and loosens any deposits. I think
having some water in the tank before using it helps to float the contents
and lessens the build of solids.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 16:18
Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
> While we are talking about such things, I have a rather indelicate
question. We used our 1968 Caravel a couple of times before the water tank
broke (another story) and had a little trouble with black tank usage. Seems
that the solid material formed a sort of pyramid directly below the hole, so
it appeared that we had filled it up when it actually was not filled, we
were just looking at the top of the pyramid. We started out with a gallon
of water plus chemicals. Would more water be required initially to help the
solid material slump down into the tank? More water while flushing? Ours
doesn't have a separate wand for spraying down the inside of the bowl. It
only holds 7 gallons, so we were trying to be frugal with flushing water so
as not to fill it up too quickly. I would think that everything would level
out while moving, but what if you stay put for a few days? We ended up
pushing it down with a stick (eeeyew!). My family used travel trailers for
vacations when I
> was a kid, and I don't recall our ever having this problem.
>
> Sorry for asking such a gross (and probably dumb) question!
> Cynthia
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:13:06 -0400
From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer
Thanks for all the replies on this ... it is sounding like we were not using enough
water when flushing. The problem occurred when parked for about 3 days - we weren't
at a site with hookups so we had the dump valve closed. It wasn't a problem of the
guusing more water when flushing and see if that helps. We had been extra-frugal with
the water because 7 gallons sounded so small, and we didn't want to fill it up too
quickly. I'll look into the Sewer Solution gizmo, too - I assume that's something that
Thanks again,
Cynthia
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Greene [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 12:30 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer
>
>
> Cynthia, you need to use more water when operating the
> toilet. I got a
> Sewer Solution, which besides being much less messy, has the
> ability to
> rinse the black tank by shooting a stream of high pressure
> water back into
> the tank to finish the clean out after opening the dump valve
> and forcing
> the contents out of the tank. Before I had the Sewer Solution
> I had a toilet
> "wand" (I think it's called) for rinsing out the tank.
> Another suggestion
> you might consider if you have a build up in the black tank
> is to pour a bag
> of ice in the tank before starting on a trip. The motion of
> the trailer
> moves the ice around inside the tank and loosens any deposits. I think
> having some water in the tank before using it helps to float
> the contents
> and lessens the build of solids.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 16:18
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
>
>
> > While we are talking about such things, I have a rather indelicate
> question. We used our 1968 Caravel a couple of times before
> the water tank
> broke (another story) and had a little trouble with black
> tank usage. Seems
> that the solid material formed a sort of pyramid directly
> below the hole, so
> it appeared that we had filled it up when it actually was not
> filled, we
> were just looking at the top of the pyramid. We started out
> with a gallon
> of water plus chemicals. Would more water be required
> initially to help the
> solid material slump down into the tank? More water while
> flushing? Ours
> doesn't have a separate wand for spraying down the inside of
> the bowl. It
> only holds 7 gallons, so we were trying to be frugal with
> flushing water so
> as not to fill it up too quickly. I would think that
> everything would level
> out while moving, but what if you stay put for a few days?
> We ended up
> pushing it down with a stick (eeeyew!). My family used
> travel trailers for
> vacations when I
> > was a kid, and I don't recall our ever having this problem.
> >
> > Sorry for asking such a gross (and probably dumb) question!
> > Cynthia
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 11:40:48 -0700
From: "Judy White" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sewer Solution, was Indelicate Answer
I'll look into the Sewer Solution gizmo, too - I assume that's something
that's available in RV stores like Camping World?
>
Camping World has them. They were also available online from the mfg...I
just tried the link www.SewerSolution.com without success...Anyone have a
current link? They had factory seconds at discounted prices available...
Judy White
72 Int'l Ambassador 27
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 11:56:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: airstream lover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Airstream Bubble 1957
Can anyone tell me what is an option for the plumbing
in my 1957 Airstream Bubble? As you walk in, the
toilet is on the right, and the sink is on the
streetside. How do these tie in together and how do I
do it without it looking tacky. The Airstream Service
center wants to tie it in together underneath and run
it to the other side of the trailer. Will this hang
down too low and look strange? Will it affect the
value of the trailer since it is on original condition
everywhere else?... even the upholstery
thank you for your help in advance.
Al
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:33:45 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
Cynthia
you may also want to look into a macerator , we have one and love it. it
sucks out the stuff and pumps it out. you can do a search on the net and get
alot of good info. we live fulltime in our trailor. 4 people and never have
any trouble. we also use less than 2 pints per BM per person because we
compost it and use it as fertilizer. In Texas we call it Dillo Dirt.
Gina
>From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:13:06 -0400
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Received: from hpserver.airstream.net ([12.232.139.193]) by
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>2002 11:21:51 -0700
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>FILETIME=[4E7FA980:01C23988]
>
>Thanks for all the replies on this ... it is sounding like we were not
>using enough water when flushing. The problem occurred when parked for
>about 3 days - we weren't at a site with hookups so we had the dump valve
>closed. It wasn't a problem of the gunk building up and sticking to the
>sides, just the visible mound when the valve in the toilet was opened,
>making it appear that the tank was full. We realized when we got home and
>couldn't see the top of the mound any more that everything had sloshed
>around while we were moving and flattened out, so to speak, and that it
>wasn't really full. Bob mentioned that the tank should actually slope
>*away* from the dump valve - that seems like it would make it harder to
>clean out when dumping, unless you did use a hose or wand to run everything
>out. I had actually wondered if there shouldn't be a slope *toward* the
>dump valve, and maybe ours is off-kilter and too flat. Anyhow, when we
>finally get it in shape to use again, we'll try
>using more water when flushing and see if that helps. We had been
>extra-frugal with the water because 7 gallons sounded so small, and we
>didn't want to fill it up too quickly. I'll look into the Sewer Solution
>gizmo, too - I assume that's something that's available in RV stores like
>Camping World?
>
>Thanks again,
>Cynthia
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: James Greene [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 12:30 PM
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> > Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer
> >
> >
> > Cynthia, you need to use more water when operating the
> > toilet. I got a
> > Sewer Solution, which besides being much less messy, has the
> > ability to
> > rinse the black tank by shooting a stream of high pressure
> > water back into
> > the tank to finish the clean out after opening the dump valve
> > and forcing
> > the contents out of the tank. Before I had the Sewer Solution
> > I had a toilet
> > "wand" (I think it's called) for rinsing out the tank.
> > Another suggestion
> > you might consider if you have a build up in the black tank
> > is to pour a bag
> > of ice in the tank before starting on a trip. The motion of
> > the trailer
> > moves the ice around inside the tank and loosens any deposits. I think
> > having some water in the tank before using it helps to float
> > the contents
> > and lessens the build of solids.
> >
> > Jim Greene
> > ' 68 Tradewind
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 16:18
> > Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank (was Black tank leak! (tank indicator))
> >
> >
> > > While we are talking about such things, I have a rather indelicate
> > question. We used our 1968 Caravel a couple of times before
> > the water tank
> > broke (another story) and had a little trouble with black
> > tank usage. Seems
> > that the solid material formed a sort of pyramid directly
> > below the hole, so
> > it appeared that we had filled it up when it actually was not
> > filled, we
> > were just looking at the top of the pyramid. We started out
> > with a gallon
> > of water plus chemicals. Would more water be required
> > initially to help the
> > solid material slump down into the tank? More water while
> > flushing? Ours
> > doesn't have a separate wand for spraying down the inside of
> > the bowl. It
> > only holds 7 gallons, so we were trying to be frugal with
> > flushing water so
> > as not to fill it up too quickly. I would think that
> > everything would level
> > out while moving, but what if you stay put for a few days?
> > We ended up
> > pushing it down with a stick (eeeyew!). My family used
> > travel trailers for
> > vacations when I
> > > was a kid, and I don't recall our ever having this problem.
> > >
> > > Sorry for asking such a gross (and probably dumb) question!
> > > Cynthia
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> > original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:11:33 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer
On Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:13:06 -0400, "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> We had been extra-frugal with the water because 7 gallons sounded so small, and we
>didn't want to fill it up too quickly.
that number does not sound correct. did you get that out of your manual?
further, you should always use your toilet with the valve closed, never open.
otherwise you WILL get that pyramid. yes, the tank should be flat and level.
the valve is in the bottom half of the side of the tank.
Seems to me that the Black Tank on a 68 is supposed to be a 12 gal ???
fwiw
chas
--
Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T '76 Sovereign
www.schuetzen.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 15:53:21 -0400
From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer
Maybe I wasn't clear - we were using it with the valve CLOSED. As to the size of the
tank - I think 7 gallons is correct - I got the number from the manual, however I may
not be remembering correctly. I'll look at it tonight (if I remember :-)). I do r
How much water do most people start with in the tank when heading out for a
boondocking situation? The chemicals that I used said 1-2 gallons, I think I put the
smaller amount.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: schuetzen - RKBA! [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 2:12 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer
>
>
> On Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:13:06 -0400, "Cynthia Grant"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> > We had been extra-frugal with the water because 7 gallons
> sounded so small, and we didn't want to fill it up too quickly.
>
> that number does not sound correct. did you get that out of
> your manual?
> further, you should always use your toilet with the valve
> closed, never open.
> otherwise you WILL get that pyramid. yes, the tank should be
> flat and level.
> the valve is in the bottom half of the side of the tank.
> Seems to me that the Black Tank on a 68 is supposed to be a 12 gal ???
>
> fwiw
> chas
>
> --
> Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
> WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T '76 Sovereign
> www.schuetzen.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
> X-No-Archive: Yes
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:45:53 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer
On Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:13:06 -0400, "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>we weren't at a site with hookups so we had the dump valve closed.
this is what lead me to believe that you do not usually have the valve closed.
Even if you are hooked up to the hose to the tank, ALWAYS keep the valve closed
until you are ready to dump the tank.
I know that we have beat this point to death over the past 10 yrs of this list
but it is true and important.
cheers
--
Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T '76 Sovereign
www.schuetzen.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 16:24:58 -0400
From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer
Oh, yeah, I did sort of imply that we would have done differently if we were at a site
with hookups, but I didn't mean it. :-) Never fear, I have been saving all sorts of
tidbits of information and have a particular interest in having the sewage managemen
> -----Original Message-----
> From: schuetzen - RKBA! [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 2:46 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer
>
>
> On Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:13:06 -0400, "Cynthia Grant"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> >we weren't at a site with hookups so we had the dump valve closed.
>
> this is what lead me to believe that you do not usually have
> the valve closed.
> Even if you are hooked up to the hose to the tank, ALWAYS
> keep the valve closed
> until you are ready to dump the tank.
> I know that we have beat this point to death over the past 10
> yrs of this list
> but it is true and important.
>
> cheers
>
> --
> Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
> WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T '76 Sovereign
> www.schuetzen.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
> X-No-Archive: Yes
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 16:42:50 -0400
From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
........................... we live fulltime in our trailor. 4 people
and never have
: any trouble. we also use less than 2 pints per BM per person because
we
: compost it and use it as fertilizer. In Texas we call it Dillo Dirt.
: Gina
Gina,
Are you saying that you use composted human waste for fertilizer?
I know what milorganite is, it's sludge made into fertilizer from
"sewage treatment plants". This milorganite is *sterilized* I'm sure
even though it too has been "composted" in their own way.
However, using human waste that has even been "composted" should never
be used as fertilizer *unless* it's of the milorganite type made and
produced by sewage treatment plants. I seriously doubt that your
composting of this waste can compare *health-wise* for the general
public at large with the milorganite product made only with all sorts of
permits, time studies and whatever else was "authorized" to make their
product safe for the environment.
I mean, even you a septic tank keeps the solids in the tank itself yet
lets the effluent leach out into the drain fields which is *sanitary* or
at least we are told that is the case. Then again, too many septic
tanks will soon render a drinking water well unfit for human
consumption.
To me I would think that the burning of solid waste that has been
"composted" would be a much safer means of disposal of human waste than
spreading it around and using it as "fertilizer" as you stated.
Human waste used as fertilizer is a practice in third world countries I
know. And in India specifically it is those of the lower caste who are
lucky (not really lucky are they?) enough to be the ones that haul loads
of other peoples human waste by-products.
Please be careful and check into the practice of "fertilizing" like you
do. Perhaps a composting toilet that burns the waste would be a more
practical solution for you and yours?
Tom
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 16:08:26 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
thanks for all your concern however we use a REAL composter which was a
little expensive to begin with.which does on a small scale what treatment
plants do.not just a PILE and we use it on flowers and scrubs not veggie to
eat. The microbes once composted are not bad for the environment but GOOD
for them. let me know if you have any other concerns, I will try to put them
at rest, for now you can comfort yourself knowing that you probably live
100's of miles from our "compost"!!!
Gina
>From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 16:42:50 -0400
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Received: from [12.232.139.193] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id
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>From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu, 01 Aug 2002 13:49:05 -0700
>Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>X-Listserver: Macjordomo 1.5 - Macintosh Listserver
>
>From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>........................... we live fulltime in our trailor. 4 people
>and never have
>: any trouble. we also use less than 2 pints per BM per person because
>we
>: compost it and use it as fertilizer. In Texas we call it Dillo Dirt.
>: Gina
>
>Gina,
>
>Are you saying that you use composted human waste for fertilizer?
>
>I know what milorganite is, it's sludge made into fertilizer from
>"sewage treatment plants". This milorganite is *sterilized* I'm sure
>even though it too has been "composted" in their own way.
>
>However, using human waste that has even been "composted" should never
>be used as fertilizer *unless* it's of the milorganite type made and
>produced by sewage treatment plants. I seriously doubt that your
>composting of this waste can compare *health-wise* for the general
>public at large with the milorganite product made only with all sorts of
>permits, time studies and whatever else was "authorized" to make their
>product safe for the environment.
>
>I mean, even you a septic tank keeps the solids in the tank itself yet
>lets the effluent leach out into the drain fields which is *sanitary* or
>at least we are told that is the case. Then again, too many septic
>tanks will soon render a drinking water well unfit for human
>consumption.
>
>To me I would think that the burning of solid waste that has been
>"composted" would be a much safer means of disposal of human waste than
>spreading it around and using it as "fertilizer" as you stated.
>
>Human waste used as fertilizer is a practice in third world countries I
>know. And in India specifically it is those of the lower caste who are
>lucky (not really lucky are they?) enough to be the ones that haul loads
>of other peoples human waste by-products.
>
>Please be careful and check into the practice of "fertilizing" like you
>do. Perhaps a composting toilet that burns the waste would be a more
>practical solution for you and yours?
>
>Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 16:18:05 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
PS .I have investigated it throughly and am not a lower caste from the 3rd
world so I should be in good shape. also if a "fertilizer is "sterile" it
will no longer fertilize unless it is broken down to it's chemical form
which much of our polution in our watersources originate . I can assure you
that the manure you by at the store is not sterile. the microbes and process
have rendered it unharmful. however you are right, raw sewage is NOT good
for our environment and that and the practice of using it on food plants is
what spreads disease in 3rd world contries. So Don't spread your raw sewage
around folks.
living close to my environment and an environmentalist,
Gina
>From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer and more than you want to know
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 16:42:50 -0400
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Received: from [12.232.139.193] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id
>MHotMailBF12E97E00444136E84E0CE88BC1FF620; Thu, 01 Aug 2002 13:48:05 -0700
>Received: from 192.168.123.2 by hpserver.airstream.net (InterScan E-Mail
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>Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>Precedence: Bulk
>X-Listserver: Macjordomo 1.5 - Macintosh Listserver
>
>From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>........................... we live fulltime in our trailor. 4 people
>and never have
>: any trouble. we also use less than 2 pints per BM per person because
>we
>: compost it and use it as fertilizer. In Texas we call it Dillo Dirt.
>: Gina
>
>Gina,
>
>Are you saying that you use composted human waste for fertilizer?
>
>I know what milorganite is, it's sludge made into fertilizer from
>"sewage treatment plants". This milorganite is *sterilized* I'm sure
>even though it too has been "composted" in their own way.
>
>However, using human waste that has even been "composted" should never
>be used as fertilizer *unless* it's of the milorganite type made and
>produced by sewage treatment plants. I seriously doubt that your
>composting of this waste can compare *health-wise* for the general
>public at large with the milorganite product made only with all sorts of
>permits, time studies and whatever else was "authorized" to make their
>product safe for the environment.
>
>I mean, even you a septic tank keeps the solids in the tank itself yet
>lets the effluent leach out into the drain fields which is *sanitary* or
>at least we are told that is the case. Then again, too many septic
>tanks will soon render a drinking water well unfit for human
>consumption.
>
>To me I would think that the burning of solid waste that has been
>"composted" would be a much safer means of disposal of human waste than
>spreading it around and using it as "fertilizer" as you stated.
>
>Human waste used as fertilizer is a practice in third world countries I
>know. And in India specifically it is those of the lower caste who are
>lucky (not really lucky are they?) enough to be the ones that haul loads
>of other peoples human waste by-products.
>
>Please be careful and check into the practice of "fertilizing" like you
>do. Perhaps a composting toilet that burns the waste would be a more
>practical solution for you and yours?
>
>Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:47:41 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer?
--openmail-part-130f36c5-00000001
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The 7 gallons is correct size for the black water for the Caravel.
We use our trailer almost exclusively without hookups as a fully
self-contained camper about 6 times a year. The black water tank lasts
4 days with 2 people, and the keys to success are:
1) Use the spray nozzle for flushing. A few short bursts suffice. The
tank flush is only for use with hookups.
2) Minimal TP usage! Even the RV stuff will swell with moisture.
3) We use a non-scented deodorizer (3R OdorCon) that works great. We
only use a capful in a cup of water as a precharge. The "couple of
gallons" precharge notation on many deodorizers is meant for the big
40-50 gallon "super-poopers" in the modern big rigs.
More info here:
http://www.billydump.com/3r/3rhome.htm
Best of luck,
RJ
'65 Caravel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 12:53 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer
>
>
> Maybe I wasn't clear - we were using it with the valve
> CLOSED. As to the size of the tank - I think 7 gallons is
> correct - I got the number from the manual, however I may not
> be remembering correctly. I'll look at it tonight (if I
> remember :-)). I do remember thinking that it was awfully
> small! (Hence the over-frugality with rinsing water.)
>
> How much water do most people start with in the tank when
> heading out for a boondocking situation? The chemicals that
> I used said 1-2 gallons, I think I put the smaller amount.
>
--openmail-part-130f36c5-00000001--
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 18:12:54 -0400
From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Indelicate Answer?
RJ,
Thanks for the info. That's exactly the kind of usage we anticipate, so that should
help us know what to expect.
Couple more questions:
> 1) Use the spray nozzle for flushing. A few short bursts suffice. The
> tank flush is only for use with hookups.
Our toilet does not have a spray nozzle. I don't know if it was removed at some
point, or never had one. Is it a good idea to install one? Wouldn't letting the
water run a little longer while flushing do the trick? The bowl seems to come clean
easily
Related question - our bowl does not hold water - should it? Does the gasket on the
valve between the bowl and holding tank need to be replaced?
> 2) Minimal TP usage! Even the RV stuff will swell with moisture.
We've considered pretending we are in Mexico and keeping a small garbage can next to
the toilet for paper for #1. Kind of gross, but it would help to keep the tank from
filling up if one of us (ahem) pees a lot.
> 3) We use a non-scented deodorizer (3R OdorCon) that works great. We
> only use a capful in a cup of water as a precharge. The "couple of
> gallons" precharge notation on many deodorizers is meant for the big
> 40-50 gallon "super-poopers" in the modern big rigs.
> More info here:
> http://www.billydump.com/3r/3rhome.htm
Interesting site - thanks. I was using some organic microbial digester stuff that is
marketed for holding tanks and septic tanks - it seemed to do a good job of
controlling odors but I'll try the 3R product next time. It does look like it would
work wit
Cynthia
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> '65 Caravel
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 12:53 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: [VAC] Re: Indelicate Answer
> >
> >
> > Maybe I wasn't clear - we were using it with the valve
> > CLOSED. As to the size of the tank - I think 7 gallons is
> > correct - I got the number from the manual, however I may not
> > be remembering correctly. I'll look at it tonight (if I
> > remember :-)). I do remember thinking that it was awfully
> > small! (Hence the over-frugality with rinsing water.)
> >
> > How much water do most people start with in the tank when
> > heading out for a boondocking situation? The chemicals that
> > I used said 1-2 gallons, I think I put the smaller amount.
> >
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 19:06:27 -0400
From: soule <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stove
Hi Jeanne,
We also have a perfectly functioning Magic Chef stove that we will pass
on to someone who needs it. Unfortunately, we're located in MA, which
is still a fair distance from MI.
We removed the stove during the renovation of our 25' Tradewind because
we were convinced that we would never use the oven and wanted to free up
the space. We replaced it with a two burner cooktop and installed
drawers in the space underneath it. The drawers have been a great place
to store cookware and dishes. We also decided that we didn't want a
microwave, but we do travel with a toaster oven.
Last winter we traveled for 2 1/2 months and felt that the experience
vindicated our decisions. We never did want to bake or microwave
anything, but we used the cooktop and toaster oven quite a bit.
Good luck with your project.
Lincoln Soule
1977 Tradewind
____________________
MI is too far away for offers of stoves from Gerald in Iowa and Don in
TX. By
the time I paid shipping I might as well buy a new one. Darn. I am now
considering advice about just getting a cook top and augment it with
microwave and toaster oven. I just won't bake any birthday cakes until I
get
home.
Jeanne
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 00:18:02 +0100
From: Marie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stove
Hi,
I too would love to be able to get hold of a Magic Chef stove, but as I'm
in the UK, shipping, whilst not a problem, is expensive.
However, if anyone has an oven control knob with thermostat out of a
defunct oven, or anyone who doesn't manage to pass on the entire stove
would like to sell me just the thermostatic oven control, I would be happy
to pay asking price plus shipping to the UK.....a new one is prohibitively
expensive at the moment.
I'd like to keep the stove, as we occasionally use it, and also store our
cooking implements in it whilst travelling.
Thanks in hopeful anticipation,
Marie over the sea
>We also have a perfectly functioning Magic Chef stove that we will pass
>on to someone who needs it. Unfortunately, we're located in MA, which
>is still a fair distance from MI.
>
>We removed the stove during the renovation of our 25' Tradewind because
>we were convinced that we would never use the oven and wanted to free up
>the space. We replaced it with a two burner cooktop and installed
>drawers in the space underneath it. The drawers have been a great place
>to store cookware and dishes. We also decided that we didn't want a
>microwave, but we do travel with a toaster oven.
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 19:14:41 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sewer Solution, was Indelicate Answer
Judy, I've found their web site to be pretty flaky. Sometimes I can open it
and other times it seems to disappear. On one occasion when I did access the
site, I ordered mine from the manufacturer at a good savings.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Judy White" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 14:40
Subject: [VAC] Re: Sewer Solution, was Indelicate Answer
> I'll look into the Sewer Solution gizmo, too - I assume that's something
> that's available in RV stores like Camping World?
> >
> Camping World has them. They were also available online from the mfg...I
> just tried the link www.SewerSolution.com without success...Anyone have a
> current link? They had factory seconds at discounted prices available...
>
> Judy White
> 72 Int'l Ambassador 27
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 19:41:48 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stove
While we are on the subject of oven parts....
I need the handle from a Magic Chef oven for my '77 Sovereign.
Any help would be appreciated. Please reply off-list.
Thanks!
Dave
At 12:18 AM 8/2/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I too would love to be able to get hold of a Magic Chef stove, but as I'm
>in the UK, shipping, whilst not a problem, is expensive.
>However, if anyone has an oven control knob with thermostat out of a
>defunct oven, or anyone who doesn't manage to pass on the entire stove
>would like to sell me just the thermostatic oven control, I would be happy
>to pay asking price plus shipping to the UK.....a new one is prohibitively
>expensive at the moment.
>I'd like to keep the stove, as we occasionally use it, and also store our
>cooking implements in it whilst travelling.
>Thanks in hopeful anticipation,
>Marie over the sea
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #381
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