VACList DigestVACList-Digest Monday, August 12, 2002 Issue 392
Today's Topics:
1. mattresses, water tank repair and gray water...
2. vintage safari ready to roll
3. Re: mattresses, water tank repair and gray water...
4. Re: replacement license plate holder & light, and police style radio
antennae
5. Re: mattresses, water tank repair and gray water...
6. Re: vintage safari ready to roll
7. Majestic Mt. Baker Rally here I come! looking for a brake controller
8. Off for the WDCU/VAC Outer Banks Rally
9. Re: Majestic Mt. Baker Rally here I come! looking for a brake controller
10. Re: Off for the WDCU/VAC Outer Banks Rally
11. Re '56 Safari Floor Repair, my story re my 58 Traveler shell of floor
replacement
12. license plate holder and light
13. Re: Re '56 Safari Floor Repair, my story re my 58 Traveler shell of flo...
14. Re: Window treatments
15. Re: epoxy to fix soft floor at door?
16. Forgot to ask about insurance, etc.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 19:03:44 -0800
From: "Yosef P. Rosen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: mattresses, water tank repair and gray water...
Hello wise Airstream mentors,
3 questions regarding my spectacular '67 20' Globetrotter:
1- After a 4 day camping trip and a very sore back, we want to replace the
couch cushions/mattresses on the 2 gauchos...any ideas on where to get them
and if there are any more comfortable alternatives to foam? Regular
mattresses sound good, but I can't imagine them folding right when we
convert back into a couch. Futon material also seems like it would sag when
in couch mode. If foam is the only answer then does anyone make it ready in
these dimensions or do i have to custom build it?
2- We have a leaky water tank (i believe it is a 30 gallon one) under the
front couch. I removed the tank and located the leak, which is a 3 inch
crack that arches like a rainbow over the 2 inch plug in the side of the
tank. Is this repairable and if so what is best? Epoxy? Silicon? Goop? If
not advisable to repair these tanks, then does anyone carry them in stock
rather than custom?
3- I'm embarrassed not to know this about my own trailer (hey I'm new at
this) but do I have a tank for the gray water to drain into or does the gray
water just fill up the pipe connected to my shower drain? If the latter,
then it seems I must drain the gray water first before dumping the black
water. Is it proper etiquette to dump gray water on the ground at campsites
or will i attract dirty looks? Or dare I open the evil drawbridge and let
the gray water drain into the black water tank?
I hope I'm not abusing the list by asking so many questions at once, so
thanks for whatever answers you can contribute!
Very best,
Yosef Rosen
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 22:28:32 -0500
From: jim graves <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: vintage safari ready to roll
hey folks,
i'm looking for a zooted up safari in the northwest. business has taken me
to montana and my own resto projects are far from completion. would
actually consider anything from the 50's- 22' or less as long as the
condition and appointments are good. price is not really an object at this
point but availability is.
jim
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 22:50:50 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: mattresses, water tank repair and gray water...
1) 4" foam - in various densities (i prefer the 'hardest' foam for
sleeping) - is available at some of the larger 'fabric' places (Reno, NV has
a couple of good ones, for example), in large sheets which may be cut to
size. Dense foam is easy to shape, using a - get this - an electric carving
knife.
Some people have zippered covers made for foam cushions... i prefer to use
fabric 'batting' (sort of like cotton) over the foam, fabric over foam and
batting, then staple the fabric to the plywood backing (roll some batting
over the edges of the plywood, too). I also like to cut the edge between the
back of the couch and the seat of the couch at an angle, so that when in the
bed position, the edges sort of overlap.
2) I recently used some JB Weld on a similar type fracture (hot water
reservoir of an under-sink hot water heater) and it seems to be holding
well.
3) Someone else will have to answer this, since i don't remember the '67
plumbing arrangement. Draining gray-water onto the ground is a no-no, even
at campgrounds with no sewer hookups - however, one trick used by some is to
place a 5-gallon bucket under the graywater drain, with a number of holes
drilled into the bottom of the bucket... I'm not advocating this practice,
just mentioning it as an historical footnote...
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Yosef P. Rosen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: [VAC] mattresses, water tank repair and gray water...
> Hello wise Airstream mentors,
>
> 3 questions regarding my spectacular '67 20' Globetrotter:
>
> 1- After a 4 day camping trip and a very sore back, we want to replace the
> couch cushions/mattresses on the 2 gauchos...any ideas on where to get
them
> and if there are any more comfortable alternatives to foam? Regular
> mattresses sound good, but I can't imagine them folding right when we
> convert back into a couch. Futon material also seems like it would sag
when
> in couch mode. If foam is the only answer then does anyone make it ready
in
> these dimensions or do i have to custom build it?
>
> 2- We have a leaky water tank (i believe it is a 30 gallon one) under the
> front couch. I removed the tank and located the leak, which is a 3 inch
> crack that arches like a rainbow over the 2 inch plug in the side of the
> tank. Is this repairable and if so what is best? Epoxy? Silicon? Goop?
If
> not advisable to repair these tanks, then does anyone carry them in stock
> rather than custom?
>
> 3- I'm embarrassed not to know this about my own trailer (hey I'm new at
> this) but do I have a tank for the gray water to drain into or does the
gray
> water just fill up the pipe connected to my shower drain? If the latter,
> then it seems I must drain the gray water first before dumping the black
> water. Is it proper etiquette to dump gray water on the ground at
campsites
> or will i attract dirty looks? Or dare I open the evil drawbridge and let
> the gray water drain into the black water tank?
>
> I hope I'm not abusing the list by asking so many questions at once, so
> thanks for whatever answers you can contribute!
>
> Very best,
>
> Yosef Rosen
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 21:19:04 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: replacement license plate holder & light, and police style radio antennae
The original on my '68 Caravel was rusted and rotted really bad. I found
a candidate for replacement at NAPA that looked the same. So much the
same that I decided having another rust out soon was a bad buy for
$35.00. I bought a metalized plastic covered lamp from a local auto
parts store, made by the same company as the marker lights. I covered
the holes from the original with an aluminum plate and the license plate
mountings were a pair of 1/4" rivet nuts, one was loose so I had to
drill it out and install a new one and used stainless steel license
plate screws this time. I applied much the same grounding techniques for
the new license plate light as I did for the markers, and this weekend,
the third summer since I worked on them as detailed in the archives, all
I had to do was plug in and they all worked.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 23:27:49 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: mattresses, water tank repair and gray water...
Greetings Yosef!
I have inserted my comments below each of your questions.
Good luck with your Globetrotter, and welcome to the wonderful world of
Vintage Airstreaming!!
Kevin Allen
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Yosef P Rosen
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2002 9:04 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] mattresses, water tank repair and gray water...
Hello wise Airstream mentors,
3 questions regarding my spectacular '67 20' Globetrotter:
1- After a 4 day camping trip and a very sore back, we want to replace
the
couch cushions/mattresses on the 2 gauchos...any ideas on where to get
them
and if there are any more comfortable alternatives to foam? Regular
mattresses sound good, but I can't imagine them folding right when we
convert back into a couch. Futon material also seems like it would sag
when
in couch mode. If foam is the only answer then does anyone make it ready
in
these dimensions or do i have to custom build it?
Most upholstery shops can assist you in obtaining the foam. They will
have several thicknesses as well as qualities available. If you are
planning on having an upholsterer recover the gauchos, they will likely
insist upon replacing the foam to insure a good outcome. If you are
planning on doing your own upholstery, it pays to shop around for the
best price on foam - - just be sure that you are comparing similar
thickness, density, and quality to insure a valid comparison. The foam
will likely need to be cut to the needed length and width dimensions.
2- We have a leaky water tank (i believe it is a 30 gallon one) under
the
front couch. I removed the tank and located the leak, which is a 3 inch
crack that arches like a rainbow over the 2 inch plug in the side of the
tank. Is this repairable and if so what is best? Epoxy? Silicon? Goop?
If
not advisable to repair these tanks, then does anyone carry them in
stock
rather than custom?
When the water tank in my '64 Overlander failed on one of the upper
seams, I decided to replace rather than try to patch - - didn't want to
invite the potential of floor rot if the leak weren't entirely stopped.
Ace Fogdall RV in Cedar Falls, Iowa
(http://www.acefogdallrv.com/service/) ordered a stock tank which was
dimensionally similar to the original with fill and vent connections
located such that they were easily adapted to my coach. The installed
price was around $225.00.
3- I'm embarrassed not to know this about my own trailer (hey I'm new at
this) but do I have a tank for the gray water to drain into or does the
gray
water just fill up the pipe connected to my shower drain? If the
latter,
then it seems I must drain the gray water first before dumping the black
water. Is it proper etiquette to dump gray water on the ground at
campsites
or will i attract dirty looks? Or dare I open the evil drawbridge and
let
the gray water drain into the black water tank?
The answer here is "maybe". If the drainage system on your coach is
original, you do not have a gray water tank. The gray water drains
converge between the black tank gate valve and the sanitary drain cap.
You will likely find that the pipes will retain at most 2 gallons of
gray water. While it was considered acceptable to allow wash water to
fall to the ground at the time our coaches were built, this is no longer
the case. In many states it is strictly forbidden by law to allow gray
water to escape onto the ground - - one reason why some commercial
campgrounds are reluctant to permit older coaches. One way of coping
with the wash water (when full hookups are available) is to use a
termination cap with a garden hose connection - - the garden hose can
then be run to the campground sanitary sewer. The other option, that is
likely explained in your owner's manual, is to back the gray (wash
water) up into the black water tank - - you must use a solid termination
cap or be sure that the hose adapter plug is firmly attached - - you
then open the gate valve and the wash water drains into the black tank -
- the drawback is that the tank is small and will fill up quickly when
used for both black and wash water - - the other downside is the actual
dumping operation - - the gate valve must first be closed, and then you
will need a bucket to place below the terminate cap as you will have
possibly as much as a gallon of waste between the gate valve and the
termination cap that will "gush" out when the cap is removed. To
accommodate those times when I don't have full connections, I carry a
blue tote tank on wheels to use for my wash water - - a nuisance, but it
keeps me legal when I travel to campgrounds without full connections.
I hope I'm not abusing the list by asking so many questions at once, so
thanks for whatever answers you can contribute!
Very best,
Yosef Rosen
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 05:12:36 +0000
From: "H. A. K." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: vintage safari ready to roll
How about a restored 1952 flying cloud (better than new) ???
I've got over 12k invested, not to mention about 2 years of my life.
. bearings repacked last year
. new brakes
. new wheels and tires,
. new vaules in the polished aluminum tanks
. new fresh water tank
. new sure flow water pump
. new battery
. new grey water tank
. new 5.5 gallon porta potty (largest made)is hidden under the fridge
. new cushions and upostry (now 1 year old)
. new carpet on the floor
. new 12' A&E awning (now 1 year old)
Briefly, has horse shoe couch up front (seating on 3 sides). the
table is on a pedistal and can be removed to make into a bed.
kitchen is midship with original stove, oven, sink, fridge, and
two propane lights. next to fidge is closet.
Aft is full size (double) bed with a small chest of drawers on each side. I
put in hydraulic lifts on the bed,, making it easy for the
wife to store additional items underneath.
We are new grand parents and the wife wants a newer and bigger rig.
I've Got my eye on a 91 limited (34') and need the cash..
feel free to call,,,
work = 360.575.5428 or kahylton at longfibre.com
home = 360.983.3888 or [EMAIL PROTECTED]
good luck and happy hunting !!!
Kris and Donna Hylton
hey folks,
>
>i'm looking for a zooted up safari in the northwest. business has taken me
>to montana and my own resto projects are far from completion. would
>actually consider anything from the 50's- 22' or less as long as the
>condition and appointments are good. price is not really an object at this
>point but availability is.
>
>jim
>
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 22:53:16 -0700
From: "C. Hale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Majestic Mt. Baker Rally here I come! looking for a brake controller
I'm driving down from Powell River, BC for the Majestic Mt. Baker Rally.
I'll not be bringing the 59 Traveler, but I will possibly bring down some
parts. I'm planning to stay at family space in Marysville so far.
I have a new truck... and am interested in getting a brake controller for it
while I'm there. Can anyone recommend a place in the general area? I'm
interested in the Tekonsha Prodigy, but am also open to other possibilities.
I saw a Reese brakeman compact at Wal-Mart. What is its reputation?
I'm excited about being there and meeting people I've talked to on the net.
See you there,
Cindy
Blondie, 59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 06:26:25 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Off for the WDCU/VAC Outer Banks Rally
I think I'm signed off the list for a week or so. We are off for the
WDCU/VAC rally at Cape Hatteras, NC.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:42:34 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Majestic Mt. Baker Rally here I come! looking for a brake controller
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I have hah3 differnt brake controllers one was a timed control the longer you
held the brake peddle the more brake was applied it woprked resomaly well
the second was a pinglum type it worked sometimes. the one I have now is the
ULYIMA, it ia connected to the break peddle. On this last trip I had to make
a pannic stop the controller locked up the trailer breaksand eavery thing
stopped in a streight line(I use no equlising hitch or sway bars) I doubt if
I could have stopped the empty truck as quickly. the controller is pricy but
worth it.
Jim Smith
1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
1992 d0dge Cummins Diesel
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I have hah3 differnt brake controllers one was a timed control
the longer you held the brake peddle the more brake was applied it woprked
resomalJim Smith<BR>
1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)<BR>
1992 d0dge Cummins Diesel</P></FONT></HTML>
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Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:43:28 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Off for the WDCU/VAC Outer Banks Rally
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Have fun
Jim
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Have fun <BR>
Jim</P></FONT></HTML>
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Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:39:39 -0700
From: "Willy Henshall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re '56 Safari Floor Repair, my story re my 58 Traveler shell of floor
replacement
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Heya Steve
Re floor repair, you might want to look over my on-going saga re the
shell off floor replacement with my 58 Traveler, which is documented at
www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&user=155&thumb=1
To save you reading through the whole of my message here - the bottom
line is:
Don't try a shell off floor replacement unless you have 4 or 5 months
spare time and you don't mind struggling with a big floppy 400lb
unstable shell that can get irrepairably damaged in a gust of wind or
one false move. Hey the upside is - you will have an as new trailer
floor and chassis and belly pan! The downside is, well look at my
pictures.
And while you have the shell off you might as well re-weld the chassis
and repair/replace the underbelly skin too eh? This soon becomes a
biiiiiiiiiiiig and expensive job and you can lose sight of what on earth
you are doing this for.
5 months later I am only just now getting to the fun stuff of fixing up
the upper and inner skin. Heh, every day I reaffirm my creed - "I *will*
have an as new trailer chassis, floor and belly pan that my great
grandchildren will lovingly respect and keep" (Just kidding)
The key questions for your decision as to what to do are:
How bad is the rot? (really, structurally, not just initial pokey
looking)
What is your intention with the trailer? (A showpiece original spec
restoration? A new family rumpus room? A hunting camp base?)
How much time do you have spare?
How long do you want to keep the trailer? (An heirloom for your
grandchildren's children?)
Put the right amount of effort in for what you expect to get out.
Ok - here's more details.
I had 4 significant rot places, by the door, under the water tank at the
rear, under the bathroom and at the front left side where I had almost
no floor, but equally I had a solid core (probably 80% of the floor
area) that was ok that stretched from front to back and side to side.
Several people (some via this list and other Airstream net places and my
brother who is a master construction guy) recommended me to:
1) "Do it properly" and to take the shell off and put a new floor in
completely. I hummed and erred about this for a couple of weeks. I
didn't want to start a huuuuuuuuuuge project that once I had started I
had to finish. This is what I ended up doing though.
I looked into other alternatives.
2) Cutting the sections out and fixing new bits of ply in, tied
underneath with cleats. We cut out one bad section and looked at how
easy it would be to fit new sections in that were fixed to the frame
with new support pieces etc.
NO! This is trickier than you think. You will have to drop the belly pan
to access this. Trying to get the new sections under the shell where it
meets the u-channel is utter brain-damage. Tying these pieces to the
good floor from underneath is equally hard. You don't really get decent
access. And you have to get the whole thing structurally sound as one
piece would be. Any remaining rot can spread if you haven't stopped the
leaks.
The other method.
3) Using runny epoxy to slowly rebuild sections using the rotten wood as
an initial former, with temporary pieces underneath to make molds, which
is exactly how old wooden boats are repaired.
I was really put off using epoxy by talking to a few good folk. It is a
dangerous chemical and if not done right is actually not strong enough.
It is hard to get the strengthened new bits tied into the walls
properly. You have to have used epoxy before, you MUST rent breathing
gear and the fumes will off gas for about 2 weeks at least.
If I had researched this avenue more I actually WOULD have used this
method by the way in my case over the complete floor replace. Look on
line for places like http://www.rotdoctor.com/ for more info. Re the
strength issues - hey they use this on old wooden boats - think about
the strength required there and the consequences of failure out at sea.
If you can fix up a boat hull, I figure you can fix up a trailer floor.
I did a lot of fiberglass work as a kid with my dad.
Hope this helps.
Putting my experience back into the knowledge pool is my way of
returning karma to the wonderful and kind people who are on this list
and at www.airstreamforums.com <http://www.airstreamforums.com/>
Best
Will Henshall
1990 345LE Motorhome
1958 18ft Traveler
WBCC #8048
PS 7 am Sat morning, off to the trailer for my usual Saturday! Doing the
electricals today. Hoorah!
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<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Heya Steve</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Re floor repair, you might want to look over my on-going saga re =
the
shell off floor replacement with my 58 Traveler, which is documented at =
</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'><a
href=3D"www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=3D500&user=
=3D155&thumb=3D1%20">www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?c=
at=3D500&user=3D155&thumb=3D1</a>
</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>To save you reading through the whole of my message here – =
the
bottom line is:</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Don’t try a shell off floor replacement unless you have 4 =
or 5
months spare time and you don’t mind struggling with a big floppy =
400lb
unstable shell that can get irrepairably damaged in a gust of wind or =
one false
move. Hey the upside is – you will have an as new trailer floor =
and
chassis and belly pan! The downside is, well look at my =
pictures…</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>And while you have the shell off you might as well re-weld the =
chassis
and repair/replace the underbelly skin too eh? This soon becomes a
biiiiiiiiiiiig and expensive job and you can lose sight of what on earth =
you
are doing this for. </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>5 months later I am only just now getting to the fun stuff of =
fixing up
the upper and inner skin. Heh, every day I reaffirm my creed – =
“I *<b><span
style=3D'font-weight:bold'>will</span></b>* have an as new trailer =
chassis, floor
and belly pan that my great grandchildren will lovingly respect and =
keep”
(Just kidding)</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>The key questions for your decision as to what to do =
are:</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>How bad is the rot? (really, structurally, not just initial =
pokey
looking)</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>What is your intention with the trailer? (A showpiece original =
spec
restoration? A new family rumpus room? A hunting camp =
base?)</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>How much time do you have spare?</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>How long do you want to keep the trailer? (An heirloom for your
grandchildren’s children?)</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Put the right amount of effort in for what you expect to get =
out.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Ok – here’s more details.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>I had 4 significant rot places, by the door, under the water =
tank at
the rear, under the bathroom and at the front left side where I had =
almost no
floor, but equally I had a solid core (probably 80% of the floor area) =
that was
ok that stretched from front to back and side to side.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Several people (some via this list and other Airstream net =
places and
my brother who is a master construction guy) recommended me to: =
</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>1) "Do it properly" and to take the shell off and put =
a new
floor in completely. I hummed and erred about this for a couple of =
weeks. I
didn't want to start a huuuuuuuuuuge project that once I had started I =
had to
finish. This is what I ended up doing though.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>I looked into other alternatives.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>2) Cutting the sections out and fixing new bits of ply in, tied
underneath with cleats. We cut out one bad section and looked at how =
easy it
would be to fit new sections in that were fixed to the frame with new =
support
pieces etc. </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>NO! This is trickier than you think. You will have to drop the =
belly
pan to access this. Trying to get the new sections under the shell where =
it
meets the u-channel is utter brain-damage. Tying these pieces to the =
good floor
from underneath is equally hard. You don’t really get decent =
access. And
you have to get the whole thing structurally sound as one piece would =
be. Any
remaining rot can spread if you haven’t stopped the =
leaks.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>The other method…</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>3) Using runny epoxy to slowly rebuild sections using the rotten =
wood
as an initial former, with temporary pieces underneath to make molds, =
which is
exactly how old wooden boats are repaired.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>I was really put off using epoxy by talking to a few good folk. =
It is a
dangerous chemical and if not done right is actually not strong enough. =
It is
hard to get the strengthened new bits tied into the walls properly. You =
have to
have used epoxy before, you MUST rent breathing gear and the fumes will =
off gas
for about 2 weeks at least.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>If I had researched this avenue more I actually WOULD have used =
this
method by the way in my case over the complete floor replace. Look on =
line for
places like <a =
href=3D"http://www.rotdoctor.com/";>http://www.rotdoctor.com/</a>
for more info. Re the strength issues – hey they use this on old =
wooden
boats – think about the strength required there and the =
consequences of
failure out at sea. If you can fix up a boat hull, I figure you can fix =
up a
trailer floor. I did a lot of fiberglass work as a kid with my =
dad.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Hope this helps.</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Putting my experience back into the knowledge pool is my way of
returning karma to the wonderful and kind people who are on this list =
and at <a
href=3D"http://www.airstreamforums.com/";>www.airstreamforums.com</a> =
</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Best</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>Will Henshall</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>1990 345LE Motorhome</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>1958 18ft Traveler</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>WBCC #8048 </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>PS 7 am Sat morning, off to the trailer for my usual Saturday! =
Doing
the electricals today. Hoorah!</span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoPlainText><font size=3D2 face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'> </span></font></p>
</div>
</body>
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Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 11:38:11 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: license plate holder and light
Cindy asked about:
> Subject: replacement license plate holder & light, and police style radio
> antennae
My '62 had a very rusty license plate holder but the light only needed
paint. I was very pleased to find the exact Bargman license plate holder in
the Bell Industries RV catalog at the local Hardware Hank ( see
www.bellrpg.com). I just completed the installation including new stainless
screws and it was a perfect fit.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 13:11:37 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re '56 Safari Floor Repair, my story re my 58 Traveler shell of flo...
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Please dont try to scare people about using epoxy. I started using epoxys in
the 1950s have used many drums of it. never war any thing more than a
charcole mask and only when below decks in a confined space . yes the fumes
are not healthful but most tf the dangers are grossly exergrated by the
E.P.A.. I have used gallons of it on the interior of my trailer and no one
has suffered any ill effects. use the same care you would use painting or
varnishing.
Jim Smith
1965 Tradewind( the Silver Abaltross)
1992 Dodge cummins Diesel
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Please dont try to scare people about using epoxy. I started
using epoxys in the 1950s have used many drums of it. never war any thing more than a
charJim Smith<BR>
1965 Tradewind( the Silver Abaltross) <BR>
1992 Dodge cummins Diesel</P></FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 13:17:47 -0400
From: "Melvin Mudgett-Price" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Window treatments
Hi everyone,
I've been agonizing for weeks on how to get blinds to stay against the
walls. I wasn't so bothered about them conforming all the way as long as
the bottom was against the wall. The blinds we bought were paper roller
blinds as opposed to slatted blinds. They have 2 cords that extend from
the back down to the bottom and back up to the front top, these are what
rolls them up.
We had decided on shock cord stretched along the bottom of the window to
hold the blinds but I forgot to get some for the third trip in a row to
the trailer. Sheila told me I had to put them up anyway and forget about
my anality for now so up they went. Lo and behold, the roll 'em and roll
'em back down again cords lined up perfectly with the window catches, I
just extend the blind to the bottom of the window and loop the cords
behind the catches ('72 Tradewind) and they stay perfectly in place.
The blind mechanism is standard in all of this type of roller blinds, if
you're A/S is older and doesn't use the same catches you could do the
same thing by screwing in a couple of small hooks or even those stick on
Xmas light hooks applied upside down if you don't want to drill more
holes.
The blinds we bought look really nice, they are rice paper with grass
embedded and we got them from World Market, not sure how local this
store is but most ethnic housewares stores and probably Target have
them.
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 14:06:26 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: epoxy to fix soft floor at door?
The crew just cut out and patched a 2 sq. ft. area next to the door. It was
a lot of chiseling and then cutting. The "bolts that appear to be doing
nothing functional", we removed. Finally some bracing was put in under the
existing good floor and specially cut pieces filled the open holes. The
last step was a thick white "self leveling agent" that preceeded "floating"
the entire floor. Finally we used industrial grade non slip Congoleum tile
which turned out beautiful. We patched many holes using this technique
including an old floor heater and the old Suburban under the galley.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jill Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: epoxy to fix soft floor at door?
> > There is no pat answere to your question it
> > depends on just how soft the floor is.
>
> i took another look and i'm pretty sure i will
> need to do some sort of patching or section
> replacement just in fornt of the door. the
> flooring that the previous owner ripped up took
> some layers of the plywood with it leaving it
> very thin and sketchy - and there are some badly
> placed bolts that appear to be doing nothing
> functional.
>
> i will post pictures in a week or two and re-ask
> for advice then.
>
> jill
>
>
>
> =====
> "Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
> and everything is right on schedule."
>
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>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 19:17:22 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Forgot to ask about insurance, etc.
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I'm posting this to the rv/automotive-related lists to which i'm subscribed.
My Allstate policy for the '81 Dodge 'Champion' RV (i re-registered it as a '79, to
the running gear, due to smog restrictions - it routinely failed smog as an '81). This
is an RV policy, specifically, and costs less than $400.00/year. The 'RV RoadHelp' i
We had an engine failure last tuesday; about 6:30pm (central time), about 30 miles
east of Grand Island, NE. The engine had begun to overheat even though i'd had the
engine gone through, complete tune-up, etc. about four days earlier before leaving
Reno,
I called my allstate agent in Reno, because the RV RoadHelp card I was carrying in my
wallet was about 3 years out of date. Suzanne was out of the office, but one of the
other agents took my cell phone number, and said he'd start on it until she got back.
Got a call back in about four minutes with a direct number to RV RoadHelp, and a
contact name. They'd started the ball rolling, and I have to say that i've never EVER
had such rapid response in an emergency (Island Towing of Grand Island). I mentioned
the
The Allstate RV policy also includes a 'trip-interruption' provision - in our case, up
to a $1,000.00 per incident.
FWIW, i can't see how they could have performed better.
Tuna
Reno, NV
'81 Dodge 'Champion'
'49 Willys Overland 'Jeepster'
'48 Airstream 'Trailwind'
'99 Plymouth Prowler
'83 'Burro 13'
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm posting this to the rv/automotive-related lists
to which i'm subscribed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>My Allstate policy for the '81 Dodge 'Champion' RV
(i re-registered it as a '79, to the running gear, due to smog restrictions - it
routinely failed smog as an '81). This is an RV policy, specifically, and costs
less than $400.00/year. The 'RV RoadHelp' is additional, and I can't for the
life of me remember how much it was - i put it on an automatic payment thing
with a credit card - but it seemed very reasonable. (If you knew me, you'd know
what a cheapskate i am - this is not the sort of thing that i would spend money
on).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>We had an engine failure last tuesday; about 6:30pm
(central time), about 30 miles east of Grand Island, NE. The engine had
begun to overheat even though i'd had the engine gone through, complete tune-up,
etc. about four days earlier before leaving Reno, NV (where i live). The engine
'threw a rod' which pierced the oil pan. Engine seized up hard, and we were
definitely not going anywhere on our own wheels.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I called my allstate agent in Reno, because the RV
RoadHelp card I was carrying in my wallet was about 3 years out of date. Suzanne
was out of the office, but one of the other agents took my cell phone number,
and said he'd start on it until she got back.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Got a call back in about four minutes with a direct
number to RV RoadHelp, and a contact name. They'd started the ball rolling, and
I have to say that i've never EVER had such rapid response in an emergency
(Island Towing of Grand Island). I mentioned the details in an earlier post -
the RV was trailered to the Dodge dealer in Grand Island, and we were in a
Travelodge (deluxe suite, at half price - arranged by the towing company) within
about two and a half hours.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The Allstate RV policy also includes a
'trip-interruption' provision - in our case, up to a $1,000.00 per incident.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>FWIW, i can't see how they could have performed
better.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tuna</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Reno, NV</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>'81 Dodge 'Champion'</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>'49 Willys Overland 'Jeepster'</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>'48 Airstream 'Trailwind'</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>'99 Plymouth Prowler</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>'83 'Burro 13'</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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