Bruce wrote:
1) The front panel offset pot alters the RX frequency even when
RIT is off.
That is abnormal. When RIT is OFF, the RIT pot should cause NO change.
Front Panel board Q2 must be turned on by the OFFSET signal from FP-U1 to
disable RIT. I'd check the connections and traces from Q2
Jeff wrote:
I built a K1 in 2004 and sold it. I'm thinking about building another
one, but the K1 I had did not go above about 7075 kHz on 40 meters.
I'd like the band coverage to be up to about 7120 kHz. As I recall,
the only way to do that is to replace a capacitor, I think it was, but
at
David wrote:
display registers 12.2/3 volts; my DMM across the
battery terminals registers 12.60 volts.
The KX1 MPU doesn't sense battery or power supply output voltage until it has
passed through reverse polarity protection diode D2 or D3 (1N5817). At the
current that your KX1 is
when i built my k1, i set it up for the 150khz range..
looking back at my manual, it says that it is strongly advised to use
the 80khz range..
is it strongly enough advised for me to mod my machine and put it back
to the 80khz range?
No, that's really bad advice unless you live in an ITU
Stuart wrote:
Even simpler is a 80m dipole fed with balanced line to a tuner for all band
use. The window line is less costly than coax. A good quality tuner is
less lossy in multiband use than coax/ tuner balun, etc.. Balanced antennas
have fewer problems than off center feeds. Balanced line
Ian wrote:
The K1 is not a K2 lite...
Very true words indeed! A K2 doesn't meet many of my requirements for
performance and versatility in a lightweight, compact, low power consumption
rig. The K2 doesn't tempt me.
I ordered a K1 because of its impressive features soon after I saw the
Cathy wrote:
I've nearly completed my K1, and the receiver has been calibrated and
works extremely well
Sadly, the transmitter has not been so kind. Any attempt to put the
unit in transmit mode (by pushing WPM+ and WPM- together) resets the
power out to 0.1 watts, which is confirmed by
wa5pgl wrote:
K1 Serial Number 2305 operational on 2/6/07.
2-Band (2040)w/Antenna Tuner
That's 2130 K1 units since my number 175 arrived in November, 2000. I ordered
it in June, so I waited five months. It was worth it. I'm not all that fond
of the monotony of stuffing resistors and
Mike wrote:
Actually, the 9834 is now spec'ed to 75MHz.
I believe that's only since mid-2006. Most of the installed base of AD9834
chips would be 50 MHz rated.
Problem is finding oscillators.
That's seems to be very true if one searches on-line catalogs. The one for the
KX1 comes
Ken asked:
With the sunspot cycle soon to be on the upswing, I'm
wondering if Elecraft has any plans to offer 10 and 15
meter options for the KX1.
The AD9834 DDS chip in the KX1 is clocked at its maximum rate of 50 MHz. The
highest relatively clean frequency that can be generated from a DDS
Are there any band choices on the KFL1-2 that are not compatible with
each other? I can't find anything in the documentation that says
otherwise. On my last K1, I had 40 and 80 meters on the same board.
It worked fine and I had no problems. Now someone is telling me that
this combination
I wrote:
Only on the four-band KFL1-4 board is there a strict limitation to the
allowable band combinations to 40m/30m/20m/15m due to the cutoff
frequencies of the elliptical low pass filters on the board.
I should have stated the actual allowable band combinations for the KFL1-4 as:
40m, 30m,
Tom wrote:
The event is in commemoration of the work of 18-year old Willis
Porter Corwin, 9ABD, of Jefferson City who was the third station in
the relay that set the transcontinental record on this date in 1917.
He sounds like an interesting fellow. There doesn't seem to be much on the
Mike wrote:
After finishing my K1 a couple weeks ago there was one tiny thing
bugging me. There is a small gap between the front panel board and the
chassis fasteners so that when uppermost buttons are pushed, even
gently, I could see the display slightly pushing backwards.
Luckily I had
Way back in the early 1960s, there were SSB rigs like the SBE-33 and SBE-34,
the Heath HW-12/22/32, and the WRL Duo-Bander that were SSB only.
But in fairness, the SBE-33 and -34 were primarily intended for mobile
operation, and few who care about the quality and safety of their driving would
Dohn wrote:
...I have studied norse and I have every intention of making some
contacts this weekend.
Is there a Norwegian contest going? :-)
My question: I have watched my mentor zero beat with a factory transceiver.
It was fascinating and I think I understand the concept. I don't exactly
Joe W2KJ wrote at the end of a posting:
... I QRP, therefore I am
That reminds me of my response to a CB'er some 30 years ago asking what *real*
difference there was between licensed radio amateurs and Citizen Banders:
I think, therefore I ham!
73,
Mike / KK5F
I would want a lot more info before spending any money.
The BB7V is priced at US$400. It's a 22 foot vertical aluminum radiator
with a nice mast clamp (mast not included) and a cylindrical feedpoint
device.
The big question is: What's in the feedpoint device?
Sandy wrote of an earlier
Larry wrote
I am building the K1 with the 4 band filter board. I am at the step
where I must decide which VFO range to choose, 150 kHz or 80 kHz.
I would like to hear from those who have built this receiver and why
they made the choice they did.
Larry,
I've used the 170 kHz (that's what
David wrote:
Well, that just sways me back to the 'I won't bother with a K1
(since I have a KX-1) position and just get a K2 next (even if
it is not quite a unquantifyable pure sounding as a K1).
Well, David, I'm sorry to hear about anyone foregoing a K1. It is my favorite
QRP rig of the
David wrote:
I would like to setup a K1-4 for 30/20/17/15, which I believe would need an LPF
for 20 and 15). I believe I can do this with all of the parts that come with a
K1-4 except that I don't know if it includes an LPF for 20.
As supplied, the K1 with KFL1-4 covers 40m, 30m, and any two of
Cathy wrote:
I recall seeing a reference somewhere to a mod for the K1 tuning pot
circuit. The mod causes the pot to change frequency about 13 kHz per
turn at the low end of the band (thus giving easy tuning in the portion
where most ops will spend most of their time, and 22 kHz per turn at
Karl wrote:
The DDS chip with a TCXO frequency standard makes a really stable
radio. If Elecraft wanted to make an all band CW radio this design
might be the one to use.
The clock frequency of the DDS in the KX1 is 50 MHz, the highest for which the
chip is rated. The highest usable output
Think of it this way:
KAT1 - AT inside a K1
KNB1 - NB inside a K1
KNB2 - NB inside a K2
KDSP2 - DSP inside a K2
KSB2 - SB inside a K2
OK then, so what is a KAT100?? (Rhetorical question only)
Mike / KK5f
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It was written:
The proper designation is KAT1...
I wish Elecraft had chosen a little more logical system of model numbers for
their accessories, one that began with the model number of the rig to which
they apply. Thus, K1AT, or even K1-AT, rather than KAT1, for the K1 antenna
tuner. The
Randy wrote:
... 20m sounded very quiet. I could only hear a handful of signals and
all of those, as well as the noise level, were way down.
Randy, there have been a lot of reports of 20m hetrodyne crystal failures on
the KFL1-4. Can you hear a good strong 22 MHz (+/- 10 kHz) signal in
Fred wrote:
K6DGW/MM was a bit underwhelming, regardless of batteries, story at
www.foothill.net/~andreaj/Ham43.htm
Hi Fred,
Thanks for the very entertaining write-up at the URL you gave. I can't recall
the last time I read something as well-written on the web! I'm going to keep
an eye on
Ron wrote:
It's too bad we no longer have the Novice license and bands,
because it gave everyone a place to congregate while developing
CW skills.
That's so very true!
I was a Novice almost 40 years ago. The Novice bands were congested but
magical segments of 80/40/15 meters, with 75 watt
Jim wrote:
Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either
a K1 or KX1. ... I can work with either one but would prefer the
one with best performance.
As far as RF performance only goes, the K1 is clearly superior.
(1) The K1 uses an LC VFO that is cleaner than the direct
You can't get much more out of it than what is
described on the elecraft site.
Except that, rather than supporting 40/30/20m plus either 17 OR 15 meters, the
KFL1-4 filter board is actually a little more versatile. As supplied, it
supports 40/30m, plus ANY TWO of 20m, 17m, or 15m.
I don't
JT wrote:
The K1 was designed as a 2-band rig and I plan on keeping it
that way. I'm positive the 4-band filter board works fine as designed
The K1 was not compromised in any way by the introduction of the four-band
filter board. I have K1 #175, and I originally built 40/20 and 30/15 boards
W6FO wrote:
Possible band combos on KFL1-4:
40-m, 30-m, 20-m, 17-m
40-m, 30-m, 20-m, 15-m
Add the following: 40m, 30m, 17m, 15m.
30-m, 20-m, 17-m, 15-m
80-m, 30-m, 20-m
I don't think those two are good combos without some filter redesign to allow
20m and 30m to share the same low pass filter
JT Asked:
Would an 80/40/30 combo work on a KFL1-4 board?
You could build a KFL1-4 board mostly normally per directions, with band 1
being 40m and band 2 being 30m, and both using the current LP and bandpass
filter designs. After that, you could build band 3 as an 80m band, using the
JT wrote:
Another option I am thinking about is multiple 2-band boards. Keep
the 40/20 and add a 40/30 and an 80/40.
The downside to having the same band, in this case 40m, on multiple filter
boards, is that only ONE frequency display calibration factor per each HF ham
band can stored by the
I was wondering if anyone has considered a 17 meter option.
The clocking rate of the KX1's AD9834 DDS chip is 50 MHz, the maximum rated for
the chip. Typically, the highest usable output frequency from a DDS chip is no
greater than about one-third the clock rate, or about 16.6 MHz.
Thus, the
I changed the VFO frequency range capacitor to 120 pf and now have
a 178 khz tuning range.
That's why I've always termed this option as the 180 kHz option rather than
Elecraft's 150 kHz characterization.
Since I only need 125 khz to reach the SKCC frequency of
7120 khz, I may try a 100 pf
Thanks to the list for the comments and suggestions on K1 tuning range.
Claims that the full 180 kHz tuning range of the K1 is too touchy or hard to
use are way overstated. Perhaps it would be if one were operating from a tank
over bumpy obstacles.
I've used the 180 kHz tuning range for more
I have a K1 in which I just swaped the 17M parts for 20M parts. Now the
filter board needs to be aligned. Question is how does one get around the
KAT to access the filter board?
Just remove the tuner board and install the jumper in the tuner connector,
do the alignment and reinstall the
I wonder if I'm the only one who finds it aggravating to respond to a request
on this list, and get in return a message with a link I have to fill out for
the honor of passing the information to the requestee?
Please...if you are requesting help, don't insult me by expecting me to jump
through
Scott Lindstrom wrote:
OK, I admit it, I wasn't paying attention and
installed RP 1, 2 6 backward. I have no
experience with resistor packs and don't know why a
resistor would be polarized. So, the question is, is
this a critical error? I've tried to solder-wick them
out, but with
Don wrote:
I purchased from Elecraft a 4 band module and built it for 40/30/20/15.
I also purchased the parts to rework the 40/20 board into a 40/80 board.
...how involved is it to swap the 4 band and the 2 band back and forth?
You'll want to replace the 20m parts on your 40/20m board with the
Craig asked:
... what are the prospects for a 17 or 15 meter module for the KX1
Not very likely at all, which is unfortunate. 15m is my favorite band.
The clocking rate of the KX1's AD9834 DDS chip is 50 MHz (the maximum rated for
the chip). Typically, the highest usable output frequency
1. How do the IF filters in the K2 compare to the audio filters in the K1.
I can't address the K2, but the variable bandpass filtering in the K1 takes
place in the IF crystal filter network. The audio filtering is fixed.
5. Knob wobbliness. The knobs on my K1 are just a bit wobbly.
Early
John wrote:
I have had my K1 #1734 in use occaisionally since I built it.
The other day I noticed quite abit of drift,even after warm up,
like 1-2 khz. over an hour or so.
That sounds unusually high unless the ambient temperature around the K1 was
changing significantly or the DC voltage was
My K1 is very sensitive to placement. If I pick it up or turn it upside
down, I can hear it shift up or down in frequency.
Anything that squeezes or otherwise distorts the K1 bottom cover plate (such as
when the case is grabbed during repositioning) will cause a small frequency
shift (I see
It was written:
Earthlink should be ashamed for promulgating such crap.
and
... You sent me an emaiil with a question, but my response was blocked
by Earthlink's 'block everything' filter that serves as an excuse for a spam
filter.
It's not entirely earthlink's fault. Ultimately, it is the
In contest operation, we'll dispense with the DE and K altogether.
IMHO, this practice reflects badly on the contester (on his Morse
professionalism, if you will). Unfortunately, it also becomes for many a
bad habit carried over into routine operation. We're only talking about
taking a *small*
There was a recent discussion on this list about a six-band limit on the number
of bands (out of the nine HF bands which may be assigned) for which the K1 MPU
would retain LCD frequency calibration data.
Wayne has provided the following clarification:
The calibration table has one entry for
Don wrote:
Note that the K1 will remember 6 bands...
It is my understanding that the K1 will store *one* display calibration
correction for each of the HF bands that can be assigned to a K1 band. Since
each K1 band can be assigned to any of the nine HF bands, I believe that the K1
can
Don wrote:
Unless it was expanded recently, the K1 can be set to any of the 9 HF bands,
but it only has memory slots for 6 of them - one can choose any 6 of the 9
available bands.
Thanks. I've made the one calibration correction per each of nine bands
statement many times before and never had
I know the specs say 200 Hz / hour but I'm really hoping to see
less than 100 Hz per month, kind of thing
Pardon me for asking, but is this a realizable goal (3 ppm/month at 28 MHz
over an unspecified temperature range) for the K1 frequency system which
consists of a crystal hetrodyne
Keith wrote:
The knobs on my K1 have a bit of a loose feel to me.
The early K1 units were provided with potentiometers that had a tremendous
amount of shaft wobble. Elecraft later went to a pot design that had a much
greater amount of shaft support. I had to replace my AF gain pot when it
Don wrote:
The fact that mode B can send a dit just by holding the dah paddle a bit
longer has always boggled my mind - if I want a dit, I feel I should tap the
dit paddle!!! Mode B can drive me nuts.
Tom wrote:
When I let go of the paddle I want the dit or dah that I am hearing to be
the
Keith wrote:.
The keyer in the rig is not quite what I'm used to ...
You may want to try setting the keyer for iambic mode A and then mode B to
see which one is more natural to you. I personnaly abhor iambic mode B
keyers, but the K1 keyer can be set for either mode. Its mode A keyer suits
me
Keith wrote:
Some time next week I expect a little box with a K1 in it. I'll have
fun comparing it to my TenTec Omni V. I could see me replacing both
with a K2/100 some day ...
I don't think one should consider the K2 as an upgrade to the K1. These two
units fill different rolls. For my
Sandy wrote:
Even prisoners used it in prison camps by tapping on walls or pipes.
I don't think International Morse serves very effectively when the characters
must be simple taps. How does the receiving operator tell if a tap is supposed
to be a dash? In my experience, I'd say it can't be
Kieth wrote:
Hold on a second (AS) there Ron :-) My understanding is that BK, CQ and
SOS are not to be sent with no space but as individual letters complete
with the proper space around them.
There's the **biggest** mistake in Morse telegraphy!
SOS is ALWAYS to be sent with NO space between
Jim wrote:
- Two lovely NOS 837 tubes, ready to sell. Neat-and-clean but
not-perfectly-level
workbench. Concrete basement floor.
One lovely NOS 837 tube, ready to sell.
Well, at least it wasn't a 211, 25, 2A3, or some other vintage tube made rare
only due to vacuum tube audiofool demand.
Tom asked:
Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1
internal battery installed with the K1's cover in place?
I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like
to access the battery compartment.
The knobs you speak of are just replacements for the two small screws
Well, there you are! Restorable ARC-5s are expensive but junkers aren't.
Most have been ham-hacked into oblivion. Today, it would be a shame to deface
or modify in *any* way WWII-era military radios that have managed to avoid 60
years of ham defacement. Please, use a pre-hacked unit if you
It was written:
... the K1 just seems like a let down after the K2 and KX1.
There it is, K1 owners! If you've been feeling depressed, low, and irregular
ever since you got your K1, the best all-round compact QRP rig ever made, now
you know why. I only wish I'd been smart enough to see it
Don wrote:
I would not regard 100 Hz of drift in the K1 as a design problem at all -
The K1 spec is for drift less that 200 Hz after a 5 minute warmup.
The fact that the K1 does not use a DDS vfo is not a 'design problem'
as was stated...
I wholeheartedly agree. I had been using (and still
Paul wrote:
Just reading page 59 of the K1 manual and it talks about provisions for
improvements to the VFO temperature compensation
And the use of D3, R17 and R18.
Anyone tried this out and done any before and after tests.
I've heard no reports of such experiments in the five years that I've
Tom wrote:
I've been reading the manual for the K1I don't see mention of
auto-sensing of the paddle as in the K2.
That's because the K1 keyer does NOT have the ADn and ADr auto-detect
feature.
However, the K1 quick reference card on Elecraft's site at
Tom wrote:
The K1 should arrive next week. I see a lot of mods got incorporated...
There is mention of shortening the AGC response time by swapping
a 1.0uf for the original 2.2uf.Did that mod make it to the current
production units as well?
No, I don't think Elecraft has embraced that
I'm guessing SO239s mate with something
else, and it doesn't seem to be a PL239 either.
I'm PRETTY sure it's a PL259...
Yes, the SO-239 and PL-159 designations originate from the US Army Signal Corps
component nomenclature system that was in effect before mid-WWII. Therefore,
you won't
Ed wrote:
I need a visual program to align my K1 (s/n 31) ...
Hi Ed,
Be careful about using Spectrogram for the K1 alignment except (maybe) for
determining the proper BFO frequency setting (and even there it's not at all
necessary).
If you optimize the K1 filter board adjustments in receive
Does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy a cw lock
indicator for my K1?
What is a cw lock indicator?
Mike / KK5F
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Jess wrote:
For general all around radio that does HF and VHF/UHF, the 817 is
hard to beat.
The problems with the FT-817 as an all-round modest performance rig are
legion, as indicated in the partial listing that follows:
1. It's a power hog. Even when set up for its most power-saving
It was stated:
Hi Guys, my main rig is a K1 feeding a multi dipole for 80/40/20 with no
ATU. I am thinking of taking down the dipoles and trying a full size G5RV.
Don wrote:
... I have found the claims for the G5RV antenna to be highly exaggerated.
For good unbiased information on the G5RV
Jim wrote:
While the kit and instructions are first rate, this upgrade is not for
the faint of heart. Although I was careful not to use any more heat
than necessary in removing the cut pins from the old LCD, I did have
one PCB trace lift up.
It would appear to be somewhat taxing, just
Jim wrote:
... each and very one of those guys passed a code test!
This is definitely **not** a certainty, since the VEC process took over the
operator licensing exam process.
Mike / KK5F
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Ron wrote:
The advantage of low dipoles on slopes for DX noted by Moxon
is that the earth behind the radiator acts as a reflector.
For an HF dipole installed along a stony cliff or bluff, I've always had my
doubts that the earth and stone behind the dipole act much like an effective
ground
Vic wrote:
I would like to correspond with anyone who has tried portable QRP
operation from a high location, using a low horizontal antenna at the
edge of a sharp dropoff.
I always got great results operating from a bluff on Arkansas' Mount Magazine
and similar locations, by running the ends
Grif wrote:
WHAT are the changes to R11 and R30 Everyone is referring to them, but
no-one has said what they are!!
Must be a dark secret, Grif. Nobody seems to want to tell, apparently least of
all the folks who report having performed the mods!
I'd help if I knew...but I don't have a
Pete wrote:
I'm considering getting a K1, this question of 80 vs. 150 kHz VFO
tuning width is a bit disconcerting.
I hold the minority view that 150 kHz span (you'll actually get closer to 180
kHz) works just fine. The tuning is pretty linear at about 18 kHz per turn
across the entire tuning
Jeremy wrote:
I know the KX1 is more portable but I am wondering specifically
about the receiver performance between the two.
If properly built, the K1 has a somewhat better receiver than the KX1 in most
areas. The advantages of the K1 receiver over that of the KX1 are:
(1) Bands of operation.
It was reported:
... the KX1 wins handsdown for backpacking...
Strange! Before the KX1 came out, the K1 was generally acknowledged as the
best multi-band backpacking rig available. It is no less suitable for that
task today.
If one is happy with the limited number of bands covered by the
Sandy wrote:
Is this stuff real flexible? I've been using some old MIL SPEC type #26
guage
hookup wire!
Scott wrote:
I am looking for a vendor for the #26 AWG Teflon coated, silver plated
wire
that is often recommended on this list for portable KX1 antennas
What is the advantage of this
Matt wrote:
... when I was backpacking, every ounce and square inch
was very significant.
Having been on many several-day back pack trips over the past 30 years
(mainly in the Arkansas Ozarks, not on Mount Everest), I'd say that is true
to a point, but overstressed. Will an eight-ounce
K2:
far better base specs (performance and features)
The K1 has the best specs for spurious output of any Elecraft rig.
Mike / KK5F
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There's no denying the K1 is a very nice, and I'm beginning to think,
underrated rig. The KX1 kind of upstaged this solid little performer.
Due, in no small part, to some product reviews of the KX1 incorrectly
implying that the KX1 was an improved K1. It isn't.
I just say Let me see you work
Eric wrote:
Maybe many hams don't consider building with SMTs relaxing or fun although
THEY CAN DO IT. It may not be that hard, but for many it is not much FUN.
snip many other good points
Maybe we forget that SMTs were developed for MACHINE assembly, not hand
assembly.
snip many more good
Vic wrote:
... most likely, future kits will include machine-made SMT subassemblies
which will be put together by the builder.
Is this bad? I don't think so. I didn't complain about not building
the microprocessor in my K2!
I think it would be great. Think of the construction time saved,
A few minutes after I posted, via your email address, a reply to a
news group topic I received the following email. Note that my post
hasn't yet appeared in the newsgroup list - so I'm guessing this came
directly from something between me and you. I translated the Dutch
but it doesn't make sense -
Mark wrote:
I am gearing up for a portable station for emergency
communications and have decided to use my K2/100 and
KAT100 combo. I want to be able to power it with
batteries, if the need arises...I've been thinking about using
something on the order of a 50-60 Ahr size.
I've been playing
David wrote:
My K1, once built, will be capable of all six bands. With that being said,
If this capacitor is to help with 80 Meters, what does it do to performance
if I don't have the band module that contains 80 installed?
True, C78 and RFC8 are normally included only with the 80m filter
David wrote:
... the manual makes references to both Revisions C D.
Is there any real performance differences in the two.
Rev. D KNB1 boards do not exist. The manual mentions it just in case revision
is ever made. It has done so since the first KNB1 was sold nearly five years
ago.
73,
Jay wrote:
Radios with wideband (1.8-30 MHz) receivers can sometimes be modified
by or for valid MARS stations
It is likely that someday NTIA compliant radios will be required for MARS.
MARS stations that participate in SHARES nets already need to meet specs. The
Civil Air Patrol has
After the ATU, it is the best accessory ever for the K1.
It definitely does the job, but...it seems way over-engineered and
complicated for the task of simply lifting the front of a K1, which is all
that many require. It doesn't colllapse quickly for storage, and it
provides only two
I wrote:
The KTS1 and the KNB1 are two K1 accessories that have fallen
out of use here.
Whoops! I meant KBT1 internal battery, not KNB1 noise blanker. Although
the KNB1 doesn't do much for the noise I've encountered, there's no point to
pulling it out of the K1.
The KBT1 would be much more
Ron wrote:
... the most famous aircraft antenna is the Zeppelin antenna...
balanced feeders from the transmitter to the END of a 1/2 wave
antenna. At the antenna, one feeder connected to the end of the
radiator and the other feeder simply stopped at an insulator...
Most Ham Zepps today are not
Craig wrote:
I bought both a 4-band and 2-band filter board for my K1. I built
the 4-band board for 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters.
I have parts to make the 2-band board either 80/17 or 80/15.
What's really going to be involved when swapping boards? ...
What about calibration?
The K1 MPU stores a
Dave wrote:
I am interested in your opinions on the differences between the K-1 and
KX-1 transceivers, beyond the band coverage issues; for example, which
has the better receiver?
I built my K1 (#175) in November, 2000, for backpack portable use. If I
were buying a rig today, now that the KX1
Ruchan Ozatay wrote:
I will get my K1 with KFL1-4 to build. I want to know your opinions,
which VFO range I have to select?
Eric wrote:
I tried 150 khz at first. The tuning is WAY too fast
and the added frequencies are of no use to QRP...
I've been using K1 #175 in the USA since November 2000,
Tom wrote:
Recently I discovered an drift problem on 20 (only 20)
on my 4 band module. (Blue trimmer caps inside).
This problem occurs during RX and TX.
I must add that my problem does not exist with the 2 band module
Tom,
I've never heard a problem like this reported on the K1. About the
I wrote:
Thank goodness for iambic mode A. I never understood how mode B,
the result of a logic design error in an early (1960s) electronic keyer
design, caught on.
Bill wrote:
I built a Mini-MOS key (from a 73 magazine article) back in 1979. It
has dot and dash memories -- the
Ron wrote:
I seem to recall there was a mod to make C31 something like 1uf and
having a resistance in series to speed up the AGC action, and I think that
is in the set.
There have been several proposals for altering (speeding up) the stock AGC
response of the K1. The most common is just
Is there a modern tuner out there for balanced lines that
doesn't use a balun?
I don't know of any. There is nothing wrong with using a balun
as long as the balun is looking into a relatively low SWR .
Even the MFJ-974, 974H, and 976 balanced line tuners use a 1:1 current balun
on the input
Jerry wrote:
The J-37 I bought (surplus) came in it's original cardboard box and
was mounted on a leg clip
A J-37 on the leg clip becomes a J-45 under the old Army Signal Corps naming
system, or a KY-116/U under the late-WWII to present Joint Army Navy naming
system. They can be often found
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