The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 123 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem Re: E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem Re: E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem E30 front end rebuild Re: E30 front end rebuild Torch and Nut Splitter: was:E30 front end rebuild Re: E30 front end rebuild Re: E30 front end rebuild Ignition coil performance between 6,000 rpm and 6,500... Re: E30 325iX Rubber Components Re: E30 325iX Rubber Components Re: E30 325iX Rubber Components Ultimate Drive - what a blast! <E36> Squeaky clutch pedal is back [EMAIL PROTECTED]&! Re: <E36> Squeaky clutch pedal is back [EMAIL PROTECTED]&!
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 23:55:21 -0500 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> See below. From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > That is a fuel level sender. It wires in series with the sender on the > passenger side. Since the fuel level on each side of the tank is not fixed, > the car needs two senders. This makes perfect sense. But why on earth did they make the driver's side sender connector (2-prong) look exactly like a fuel pump connector (2-prong) instead of like the passenger side sender connector (a very different 3-prong)?? > Making unfounded guesses and assumptions can lead one into trouble <grin>. > Don't be afraid to dig into things to see how they work. If there were a > pump on that side, there would also be a fuel hose ... maybe. Absolutely and agreed on assumptions, but as for guesses, I think they are often appropriate. Making a guess is OK, so long as you seek confirmation before acting on it! Besides, nothing ever goes how it is supposed to go for me, so I might as well take some chances now and again. I probably can't be any worse off and I might be better off! Stan ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 09:57:08 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I agree with making guesses and confirming. Really, its hypothesis testing. Sometimes you have to go with instinct. Gary Derian > > Absolutely and agreed on assumptions, but as for guesses, I think they are > often appropriate. Making a guess is OK, so long as you seek confirmation > before acting on it! Besides, nothing ever goes how it is supposed to go > for me, so I might as well take some chances now and again. I probably > can't be any worse off and I might be better off! > > Stan ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 12:23:49 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 325i Fuel Delivery Problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > -----Original Message----- > This makes perfect sense. But why on earth did they make the > driver's side > sender connector (2-prong) look exactly like a fuel pump > connector (2-prong) > instead of like the passenger side sender connector (a very different > 3-prong)?? Both fuel level senders are two wire units. The extra wire on the right side assembly is not for the sender, it's for the low fuel light switch. Brett Anderson KMS --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.642 / Virus Database: 410 - Release Date: 3/24/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 00:30:58 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list) Subject: E30 front end rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, the front suspension rebuild on my 87 325i was going well, but I ran into a snag. My plan was to replace the control arms, control arm bushings, strut inserts, sway bar links, and strut bearings. Everything went well, except for the driver side tie rod nut getting stuck and the ball joint spinning with it. Then I got to the struts. I got one of them apart and tried to pull the insert. There is no way that the collar is comming off of there. We tried everything. Final result, between the amazing amount of rust on the strut housing and retaining collar, and the part where the strut housing was shedding big chunks of crispy rust, I gave up and bought new housings. I can wrap this up when I get them on Wednesday. As far as I can tell, these may be the original struts. There was no foam bumpstop left, the retaining collars were very much one with the housing, and the grease in the upper strut bearing had hardened to this crispy hard stuff. Anyone ever heard of someone going 213kmi on original struts or control arms? The driver side lower ball joint was completely gone. I could rattle it around in the joint once I got it off the car. Oddly enough, the car didn't wander or do anything odd other than go think when stopping. Hopefully, this will all be worth it. -- Joe, carless for now. -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 03:12:47 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 front end rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Everything went well, except for the driver side tie rod nut > getting stuck > and the ball joint spinning with it. I have had similar issues, I used a jack to apply pressure to the bottom of the ball joint and then used an impact...this worked well. > Then I got to the struts. > > I got one of them apart and tried to pull the insert. There is no way that > the collar is comming off of there. We tried everything. Final result, > between the amazing amount of rust on the strut housing and retaining > collar, and the part where the strut housing was shedding big chunks of > crispy rust, I gave up and bought new housings. I can wrap this up when I > get them on Wednesday. I again had similar issues on my 1989 325is with 170k miles. Eventually, I got them out with lots of PB Blaster, using a grinding wheel to cut two flats on the insert, a vice and a very large pipe wrench....it wasn't easy. There were moments I didn't think I would though and had even made some calls to see if any of my buddies might have a donor set of strut housings. I was able to salvage the strut housings though, the rust was primarily contained to the inserts and not the housing and I was able to remove the rust on the housing, prime and paint. > As far as I can tell, these may be the original struts. There was no foam > bumpstop left, the retaining collars were very much one with the housing, > and the grease in the upper strut bearing had hardened to this crispy hard > stuff. Anyone ever heard of someone going 213kmi on original struts or > control arms? Same situation with my 1989 325is, the struts were original at 170k miles, the bumpstop was basically non-existent. But, you got me beat by 43k miles which is quite shocking. Although, mine were 170k miles year round in Indiana/Ohio. The stupid thing is I didn't even replace the strut bearings since I hadn't thought about it (I did replace the springs as the existing ones were rusted horribly, worse than any other part on the car). The strut bearings do need replaced. > The driver side lower ball joint was completely gone. I could rattle it > around in the joint once I got it off the car. Oddly enough, the > car didn't > wander or do anything odd other than go think when stopping. The set of RSMs that I pulled out (again, at ~170k miles) were original and there was a minimum of 5mm of clearance between the rubber busing and the metal support of the RSM. It sounded like there were a couple bowling balls rolling around in the trunk when you drove the car the noise was so bad. Worse part on the car though when I got it was ---> The rear driver's side wheel lug nuts were seized and once heroic efforts were achieved removing the lugs, I was able to get the wheel off to see that the brake pads had worn all the way through the pads and the inboard side was 2/3rds through the backing plate, the outboard side was 1/2 of the way through the backing plate, and the brake pad backing plates had worn completely through the rotor to the point where the outer 1" of the rotor had separated from the main hat/rotor...therefore...I had "two-piece" rotors (this also explains the thick coating of rust on the wheel from the backing plates/rotor). :-) Regards, Rich - sure is fun to work on neglected cars... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 11:30:07 -0700 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Torch and Nut Splitter: was:E30 front end rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Don't forget the torch. For locknuts with plastic inserts, torching lightly to soften the plastic makes them come off easily. For fused collars, torch heavily and use a "Water Pump Plier" which is the monster sized channel lock, against the collar leveraging the strut tube against the ground, or to loosen the collar turning it against the strut tube with the strut tube either still in place on the car or held securely in a vise. I've avoided countless headaches by doing this. Anti sieze on the new collar will prevent further rust fusing. For locknuts that are all metal, A few good whacks with the proper chisel, or use of a nut splitter, eliminates the headache. You're not supposed to reuse old locknuts anyway, right? Barry >>Everything went well, except for the driver side tie rod nut >>getting stuck >>and the ball joint spinning with it. >>I have had similar issues, I used a jack to apply pressure to the bottom of >>the ball joint and then used an impact...this worked well. >> >> >>Then I got to the struts. >> >>I got one of them apart and tried to pull the insert. There is no way that >>the collar is comming off of there. We tried everything. Final result, >> ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 15:16:12 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Rich Dorffer) Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 front end rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From Rich Dorffer > >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> Everything went well, except for the driver side tie rod nut >> getting stuck >> and the ball joint spinning with it. > >I have had similar issues, I used a jack to apply pressure to the bottom of >the ball joint and then used an impact...this worked well. That is exactly what we ended up doing. Needed the full weight of the car on it to reseat the taper and then 5 minutes of pounting on it with the little impact wrench. That little wrench really was kind of wimpy, but it did the job. > >> Then I got to the struts. >> >> I got one of them apart and tried to pull the insert. There is no way that >> the collar is comming off of there. We tried everything. Final result, >> between the amazing amount of rust on the strut housing and retaining >> collar, and the part where the strut housing was shedding big chunks of >> crispy rust, I gave up and bought new housings. I can wrap this up when I >> get them on Wednesday. > >I again had similar issues on my 1989 325is with 170k miles. Eventually, I >got them out with lots of PB Blaster, using a grinding wheel to cut two >flats on the insert, a vice and a very large pipe wrench....it wasn't easy. >There were moments I didn't think I would though and had even made some >calls to see if any of my buddies might have a donor set of strut housings. >I was able to salvage the strut housings though, the rust was primarily >contained to the inserts and not the housing and I was able to remove the >rust on the housing, prime and paint. This one wouldn't budge no matter how much heat PB Blaster and torque we applied. We tried the chisel and hammer it around trick. Even with a blunt chisel all we were doing was pushing the metal around like it was cold butter. When we resorted to more destructive methods (e.g. cut the top off the insert, remove by any means necessary and get at collar itself) we discovered that the walls of the housing were down to alarmingly thin levels (as in aproaching thread depth). That was when new housings were ordered. >> As far as I can tell, these may be the original struts. There was no foam >> bumpstop left, the retaining collars were very much one with the housing, >> and the grease in the upper strut bearing had hardened to this crispy hard >> stuff. Anyone ever heard of someone going 213kmi on original struts or >> control arms? > >Same situation with my 1989 325is, the struts were original at 170k miles, >the bumpstop was basically non-existent. But, you got me beat by 43k miles >which is quite shocking. Although, mine were 170k miles year round in >Indiana/Ohio. The stupid thing is I didn't even replace the strut bearings >since I hadn't thought about it (I did replace the springs as the existing >ones were rusted horribly, worse than any other part on the car). The strut >bearings do need replaced. I am only responible for some 30k on these. I am still amazed that even with the front end in this sad shape, it still drove better than many three year old cars. I guess BMW got it right. The new strut bearings are sitting there ready to go in. >> The driver side lower ball joint was completely gone. I could rattle it >> around in the joint once I got it off the car. Oddly enough, the >> car didn't >> wander or do anything odd other than go think when stopping. > >The set of RSMs that I pulled out (again, at ~170k miles) were original and >there was a minimum of 5mm of clearance between the rubber busing and the >metal support of the RSM. It sounded like there were a couple bowling balls >rolling around in the trunk when you drove the car the noise was so bad. > >Worse part on the car though when I got it was ---> The rear driver's side >wheel lug nuts were seized and once heroic efforts were achieved removing >the lugs, I was able to get the wheel off to see that the brake pads had >worn all the way through the pads and the inboard side was 2/3rds through >the backing plate, the outboard side was 1/2 of the way through the backing >plate, and the brake pad backing plates had worn completely through the >rotor to the point where the outer 1" of the rotor had separated from the >main hat/rotor...therefore...I had "two-piece" rotors (this also explains >the thick coating of rust on the wheel from the backing plates/rotor). > >:-) This also explains 50% of the bowling balls in the trunk sound! I did replace the RSM in this car a year or two ago. I thought it was them, but it was a loose sway bar link. In the process I discovered that the rear shocks wouldn't self extend. You could push them in and pull them out by hand. I ended up stuffing some generic shocks in there and that made a huge difference. I have new Boge shocks for the rear waiting to go in. First I get the front end back together. >Regards, > >Rich - sure is fun to work on neglected cars... Yes, but the cars thank you for it in the end. I suspect that mine will drive just about like new after all this work. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 12:51:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 front end rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A few years ago, the mechanic that worked on my '87 528e at the time replaced the shocks/struts on the car. They were the original Boges and had about 225,000 miles on them at that time. I have no idea what kind of trouble he had removing them. I'm just glad I didn't have to remove them! :-) Brad "Shifty" Couvillon '87 528e --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > As far as I can tell, these may be the original > struts. There was no foam > bumpstop left, the retaining collars were very much > one with the housing, > and the grease in the upper strut bearing had > hardened to this crispy hard > stuff. Anyone ever heard of someone going 213kmi on > original struts or > control arms? __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 22:31:51 -0800 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'e30'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Ignition coil performance between 6,000 rpm and 6,500... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I'm considering upgrading the coil on my 89 M3. I've heard that Pertronix, Bosch blue and Acel make good aftermarket coils...But I've now heard that some aftermarket coils fall-off between 6,000 and 6,500. Is this true? Is there a reason? If this occurs does it occur in all of the aftermarket coils? Or just some. If some, which? Thanks, Chris 89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com 01 X5 91 M5 98 M Roadster 00 M5 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 01:39:05 -0500 From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 325iX Rubber Components Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> By confirm, do you mean part numbers, or that they are the same/different from iS? Anyway, I'll try: Suspension: *front swaybar bushings - 17mm *front control arm bushings - should be the same as iS, unless you want the caster increasing M3 offset bushings *Front upper strut mounts - WAY different, but you can pony up some serious cabbage to get the -0.5 deg neg camber fixed strut mounts (31 33 1 701 167 - stock) (31 33 1 701 168 - -0.5 deg) *Rear swaybar bushings - 14.5mm (stock) - 19mm is quite nice *Rear shock mounts - same as iS. I've (as have others) used E30 convertible RSMs, although I think the new thing is E46 RSMs, or Ground Control *Rear trailing arm bushings - Can be the same. BMW offers rubber eccentric bushings to correct for lowered suspension. *Rear subframe bushings - different. From what I can tell, the only difference appears to be a 10mm length increase in the center aluminum bushing around which the rubber is molded. I think this is partly where the iX gets increased ground clearance over iS. Probably could use standard bushings, but I don't want to try it. BTW, the increase in height does not allow the use of the factory tool without additional spacing. *Front and rear swaybar links have some plastic? - Nope. I think they use M3 links at about $40 a pop. They are built just like iS, except longer. Drivetrain: *2 motor mounts - different aluminum casting, but I believe the rubber is the same *1 transfer case mount - uh, different, I guess. iS uses 2 small biscuits, iX uses one barrel mount that needs pressed into the housing. *Rear diff mount - same *Guibo between front driveshaft and front diff - unique to iX; between manual tranny and xfer case is the same as the M3's [only] guibo. I think the xfer to driveshaft is standard iS. There is no plastic (stock, anyway), unless you consider urethane a plastic >I am trying to confirm ALL of the non-solid (rubber, plastic, etc.)... Stan 88iX http://photos.yahoo.com/amesser325 then look for the iX pics. Toward the bottom are some pics from when I replaced all rear suspension bushings ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 12:17:57 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 325iX Rubber Components Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > *Rear subframe bushings - different. From what I can tell, the only > difference appears to be a 10mm length increase in the center aluminum > bushing around which the rubber is molded. I think this is > partly where the > iX gets increased ground clearance over iS. Probably could use standard > bushings, but I don't want to try it. BTW, the increase in > height does not > allow the use of the factory tool without additional spacing. This is not correct. The factory tool works fine with iX bushings. Brett Anderson KMS --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.642 / Virus Database: 410 - Release Date: 3/24/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 12:41:19 -0400 From: matt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 325iX Rubber Components Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I did it myself with Brett's tools. Worked wonderfully. ..made a huge difference too! -Matt 1991 325iX 210,000 and still goin' Brett Anderson wrote: >>*Rear subframe bushings - different. From what I can tell, the only >>difference appears to be a 10mm length increase in the center aluminum >>bushing around which the rubber is molded. I think this is >>partly where the >>iX gets increased ground clearance over iS. Probably could use standard >>bushings, but I don't want to try it. BTW, the increase in >>height does not >>allow the use of the factory tool without additional spacing. >> >> > >This is not correct. The factory tool works fine with iX bushings. > >Brett Anderson >KMS > >--- >Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). >Version: 6.0.642 / Virus Database: 410 - Release Date: 3/24/2004 > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2004 12:28:38 -0700 From: Avinash Heroor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Ultimate Drive - what a blast! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I went to the Ultimate Drive event here in Seattle, got to do the track session in a new X3. It was a complete blast! The instructors were great as well and I learnt a lot. Anyone thinking about this, go ahead, it's great fun. Regards, Avi. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 17:49:16 -0500 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E36> Squeaky clutch pedal is back [EMAIL PROTECTED]&! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A couple of years, and about 20k miles ago, I put in some UUC clutch pedal bushings. I had a nice quiet clutch pedal for many months. But now, the awful noise is back. My understanding was the UUC bushings were made of something self-lubricating that wouldn't squeak. Is there something else besides the bushings that would creak and groan? The return spring? Any ideas appreciated. Malcolm '88 M5 - heavy but quiet clutch pedal '98 328i - light but noisy clutch pedal ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 18:07:18 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> Squeaky clutch pedal is back [EMAIL PROTECTED]&! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In my E28 I had a clutch squeak that I just could not kill - at least not until the bracket holding the pedal assembly gave way. After my mechanic welded a new bracket in everything was nice and quiet. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malcolm Reitz Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2004 5:49 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] <E36> Squeaky clutch pedal is back [EMAIL PROTECTED]&! A couple of years, and about 20k miles ago, I put in some UUC clutch pedal bushings. I had a nice quiet clutch pedal for many months. But now, the awful noise is back. My understanding was the UUC bushings were made of something self-lubricating that wouldn't squeak. Is there something else besides the bushings that would creak and groan? The return spring? Any ideas appreciated. Malcolm '88 M5 - heavy but quiet clutch pedal '98 328i - light but noisy clutch pedal Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
