The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 337 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: E36 rear ride height, race spring rates, etc.
  E46 LSD interaction with DSC
  Re: E46 LSD interaction with DSC
  Re: E46 LSD interaction with DSC
  Re: E46 LSD interaction with DSC
  Re: <E30> Diff removal
  IX lust overcomes reason?
  Re: IX lust overcomes reason?
  M3 Rear Springs on 318ti?
  Re: M3 Rear Springs on 318ti?
  Re: Bose suspension
  Re: Precision Performance
  Re: Precision Performance
  UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3?
  Re: UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 07:01:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 rear ride height, race spring rates, etc.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=E36TMSWC

Basic spring and shock package is around $1,900.


--- Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> --- "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > As for the I-stock, that doesn't give me any
> height
> > adjustability in the rear either, so I could be
> left
> > with a similar problem.  If I were going to spend
> > $1,200, I think I would just go for the full
> $1,900
> > and get the Gp. N.
> 
> Group N you say?  Where?  Who?  Link please.
> 
> Carlos (shopping for a race suspension)
> 93 325is
> 88 325is
> 
> 
>               
> __________________________________
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> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 



                
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 09:20:56 -0500
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E46 LSD interaction with DSC
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Anyone have any experience or insight on what happens with the factory
DSC when a limited slip differential is installed on an E46 (2002 330i
specifically).  I am pondering raiding my penny jar to put a limited
slip in my car but I am concerned that the electronics are not going to
want to give up control to the diff and will continue to apply the
brakes at inappropriate times.  I could just turn the DSC off of course,
but AFAIK there's no way to do that permenantly and it's a PITA to do it
every time I start the car.

Thanks

Jamie Howton




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 10:37:23 -0400
From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E46 LSD interaction with DSC
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Have you priced what a LSD will cost for your application?   It is not
simply bolting on a LSD from another BMW but rather a pricey upgrade
starting around $2500

Mike

-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
-> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jamie Howton
-> Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 10:21 AM
-> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> Subject: [UUC] E46 LSD interaction with DSC
-> 
-> 
-> Anyone have any experience or insight on what happens with 
-> the factory DSC when a limited slip differential is 
-> installed on an E46 (2002 330i specifically). 


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 11:13:22 -0400
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E46 LSD interaction with DSC
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I've found that on commercial tracks, the LSD really doesn't do me any
favors.  I mean, the colors of all the advertiser's signs do wierd things &
really freak me out......

I thought I was hard, then I found out Mike L. has a $2500 budget for LSD.
Maybe that's why he is so fast.......

Lee

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael Lawrence
> Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 10:37
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [UUC] E46 LSD interaction with DSC
> 
> 
> Have you priced what a LSD will cost for your application?   It is not
> simply bolting on a LSD from another BMW but rather a pricey upgrade
> starting around $2500
> 
> Mike
> 
> -> -----Original Message-----
> -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jamie Howton
> -> Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 10:21 AM
> -> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> -> Subject: [UUC] E46 LSD interaction with DSC
> -> 
> -> 
> -> Anyone have any experience or insight on what happens with 
> -> the factory DSC when a limited slip differential is 
> -> installed on an E46 (2002 330i specifically). 
> 
> Search the 
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> ____________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of 
> the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 09:49:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E46 LSD interaction with DSC
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

--- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've found that on commercial tracks, the LSD really doesn't do me
> any favors.  I mean, the colors of all the advertiser's signs do
wierd
> things & really freak me out...

<insert Smiller joke about how to tell if you or your car has/is on
LSD>

Carlos. :-)
(sorry not very helpul today)
88 325is  on LSD
88 325is  on LSD



                
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 08:50:35 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> Diff removal
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Kevin, all the E30s I've seen use Allen head bolts for the CV joint-to-diff
flange.  I believe the Torx head bolts are on E36s.  I did not use LocTite,
but I'm not sure if I should have or not.  When installing my 4.10 LSD, we
had trouble keeping the diff in the proper position using my floor jack, so
we rented a transmission jack.  It made the job easier.

Buy  new locking nuts for the drive shaft-to-input flange bolts.  I got
mine from Orchard Supply Hardware.  Also, while the diff is out, consider
changing the output shaft seals.  It is easier when the diff is out of the
car.  Double 02 Salvage in Hayward should have these parts in stock, and
they're open Saturday until 2 PM.  Once the halfshafts are disconnected
from the diff, hang them from the car in some way that does not allow the
CV joints to hang at their travel limits.

The order of removal of the 5 mounting bolts is different than the order of
installation.  The order of removal and installation is in the Bentley
manual that you don't have yet.  If you want me to look it up for you or
check on the torque values, contact me at home:

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Be careful disconnecting the diff speed sender, it is easy to break off the
little plastic tabs that hold the connector to the diff.  Ask me how I
know.  I recommend using Red Line gear lube.  If this is a limited slip and
a used diff you're installing, use half 75W-90 and half 75W-90NS.

HTH,

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 16:10:18 -0700
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: <E30> Diff removal
>Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Any special tools or techniques needed to remove the differential from the
>E30? Are the flange bolts square ("Allen") form or Torqs? What about
>torques? Use of Loctite etc.
>(Sorry for the questions, but the Bentley hasn't arrived and we're
>pre-planning).
>
>-Kevin




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 12:22:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Drendel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "[uucdigest] list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: IX lust overcomes reason?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Dear Jenny,
        Thanks for your message. The clunk came just as I hit the gas;
I've done it again a few times, seems to come from under my
feet sometimes, and from the rear at
other times. No clunk if I go very smooth and slow from stop.  I'm doing
my homework on the iXers site. I'm leaving the car
alone for the moment, my work is heating up, but I hope to get it running
before the snow flies. 10-4 on the belt.
I have a lot of respect for you, I like your writing, and I think the work
you did to get the the Wellstone act was great. I hope that your back
get's better soon.

By the way, did you see this ?
http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/national/164817_gearheads15.html

Bye,

John

On Thu, 26 Aug 2004, Jenny Morgan wrote:

> Sounds like it may be slipping the forward driveshaft... bad flex
> discs,... mounts... Hard to say without hearing the klunk, and feeling
> it.
>
> Ya 2K or so for an iX 5 speed swap - parts. Assuming the bones yard
> understands what you are trying to do, so that you get truly complete
> assemblies. You know, pedals and widgets, tranny and widgets... It's
> the widgets that getcha...
>
> Price sounds about right.
>
> DO THE T BELT IMMEDIATELY, the water pump, hoses and belts and probably
> front seals. DON'T drive it til ya do.
>
> Jenny Morgan
>
> On Aug 26, 2004, at 6:35 PM, John Drendel wrote:
> >  3400 Canadian, which I figure is low, but
> > hell, it's the end of August, and I'm the only Montrealer thinking of
> > a winter car this week.
>
> >  Odomoter shows 189,000, about 113,000
> > miles, which is my lucky number, just about where every BMW I've ever
> > owned was when I bought it. Seats wear matches those numbers. Well,
> > okay,  I check fluids, ATF isn't burnt, some metal precipitated in
> > the
> > coolant reservoir.
>
> >  There is a big clunk from under my feet, but it goes
> > away as I come up to speed. I do two fast, tight turns, right and
> > left, to see what the front end is up to.
>
> > and Francisco has never heard of a timing belt. If I want this car, I
> > have to decide right now.
>
> > Well Jenny Morgan said in last June's
> > Roundel that it cost 2000 US for the parts to switch an IX from auto
> > to 5 speed,
>
>

                                                           John Drendel

Departement d'Histoire
Universite du Quebec a Montreal
CP 8888 Succ. "Centreville"
Montreal Qc. Canada H3C 3P8
514 987 3000 3687#




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 11:51:06 -0500
From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: John Drendel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "[uucdigest] list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: IX lust overcomes reason?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yes I did read the article...
And that's why there is an International Association of BMW Service  
Professionals! (IAIBMWSP)

This group is actively working with BMW to establish standards and  
technology to allow the Independent access to the technology necessary  
to Dx and Tx the cars correctly!

And thanks for your reading!

Jenny

On Aug 27, 2004, at 11:22 AM, John Drendel wrote:

>
> Dear Jenny,
>       Thanks for your message. The clunk came just as I hit the gas;
> I've done it again a few times, seems to come from under my
> feet sometimes, and from the rear at
> other times. No clunk if I go very smooth and slow from stop.  I'm  
> doing
> my homework on the iXers site. I'm leaving the car
> alone for the moment, my work is heating up, but I hope to get it  
> running
> before the snow flies. 10-4 on the belt.
> I have a lot of respect for you, I like your writing, and I think the  
> work
> you did to get the the Wellstone act was great. I hope that your back
> get's better soon.
>
> By the way, did you see this ?
> http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/national/164817_gearheads15.html
>
> Bye,
>
> John
>
> On Thu, 26 Aug 2004, Jenny Morgan wrote:
>
>> Sounds like it may be slipping the forward driveshaft... bad flex
>> discs,... mounts... Hard to say without hearing the klunk, and feeling
>> it.
>>
>> Ya 2K or so for an iX 5 speed swap - parts. Assuming the bones yard
>> understands what you are trying to do, so that you get truly complete
>> assemblies. You know, pedals and widgets, tranny and widgets... It's
>> the widgets that getcha...
>>
>> Price sounds about right.
>>
>> DO THE T BELT IMMEDIATELY, the water pump, hoses and belts and  
>> probably
>> front seals. DON'T drive it til ya do.
>>
>> Jenny Morgan
>>
>> On Aug 26, 2004, at 6:35 PM, John Drendel wrote:
>>>  3400 Canadian, which I figure is low, but
>>> hell, it's the end of August, and I'm the only Montrealer thinking of
>>> a winter car this week.
>>
>>>  Odomoter shows 189,000, about 113,000
>>> miles, which is my lucky number, just about where every BMW I've ever
>>> owned was when I bought it. Seats wear matches those numbers. Well,
>>> okay,  I check fluids, ATF isn't burnt, some metal precipitated in
>>> the
>>> coolant reservoir.
>>
>>>  There is a big clunk from under my feet, but it goes
>>> away as I come up to speed. I do two fast, tight turns, right and
>>> left, to see what the front end is up to.
>>
>>> and Francisco has never heard of a timing belt. If I want this car, I
>>> have to decide right now.
>>
>>> Well Jenny Morgan said in last June's
>>> Roundel that it cost 2000 US for the parts to switch an IX from auto
>>> to 5 speed,
>>
>>
>
>                                                            John Drendel
>
> Departement d'Histoire
> Universite du Quebec a Montreal
> CP 8888 Succ. "Centreville"
> Montreal Qc. Canada H3C 3P8
> 514 987 3000 3687#
>
>
>
> Search the  
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> ___
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW  
> CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 12:00:10 -0500
From: "Bill Yates" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: M3 Rear Springs on 318ti?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Will Ground Control (or any aftermarket adjustable height) springs from the rear 
suspension of an e36 M3 fit on the rear of an e36 318ti?

Thanks,
Bill Yates
'95 330ti



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 10:29:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: M3 Rear Springs on 318ti?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

--- Bill Yates <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Will Ground Control (or any aftermarket adjustable height) springs
> from the rear suspension of an e36 M3 fit on the rear of an e36
> 318ti?

318ti trailing arms are more like an E30s aren't they?  If so I would
say an E30 adjuster with a coilover spring would probably work.  The
E36 M3 stuff is different.  A call to Ground Control could tell you for
sure.

Carlos. (just sold a bunch of used height adjustable E30 stuff)



                
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 11:09:19 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Bose suspension
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Do you get speakers with that?


http://www.bose.com/controller;jsessionid=BvorzMXNunDZeMJ1liBSvrghYhhFVbl1wg9en3fedppHJG2mRLs6!1879924776!

373760557?event=VIEW_STATIC_PAGE_EVENT&url=/learning/project_sound/suspension_challenge.jsp&pageName=/learning/project_sound/bose_suspension.j


What's not clear is the weight of the system in comparison to a stock or
aftermarket set up.
I wonder how the GM mag shocks compare.


-Kevin









------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 11:35:35 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Precision Performance
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I've tried the Precision number but lovely ATT says the call can't be
completed????

To confirm: 910-761-0643


-Kevin


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 13:37:36 -0500
From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Precision Performance
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Try the 336 area code


On Aug 27, 2004, at 1:35 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I've tried the Precision number but lovely ATT says the call can't be
> completed????
>
> To confirm: 910-761-0643
>
>
> -Kevin
>
> Search the  
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> ___
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW  
> CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 13:56:57 -0500
From: "Batt, Jeff (MED)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hello all,

I have a 1995 M3 with 86k on it.  On the way back to the office today from
lunch, my temp gauge didn't rise to the 12 o'clock position on the gauge.
Instead, it rose from cold (cold is roughly at the 10 o'clock position) to
about 10:30 or 11 o'clock.  The car had ample time to warm up - and in fact,
it should have been just about warmed up from driving to lunch.  Not sure if
this matters, but I did turn on the air cond on the way back to the office.
As soon as I noticed the strange temp reading, I turned off the air - but it
had no effect.  Back at the office parking lot, I popped the hood and
checked for obvious issues...didn't see anything and the car didn't seem to
be overheating or anything.

I've owned this car since 1999 and I'm 99.9% sure that the temp gauge has
ALWAYS moved from cold to the 12 o'clock position and then stayed basically
"locked" there - no matter what driving or environmental conditions are
thrown at it.  In fact, when talking to friends, I use this as an example of
superior BMW quality as my Jeep's temp gauge jumps all over the place.  
I changed the water pump/coolant about 8 months ago - and I've had zero
issues.

Anyone else experience this?  Is there a reason the car wouldn't warm up or
is it more likely a bad gauge/sensor/connection?  

I'm assuming that you can't change just this gauge? - but have to replace
the whole dash gauge cluster (as I've had done once all ready for a bad
speedo)?

Thanks!  Jeff


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 12:13:04 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

More than likely its the thermostat stuck open.

- if it runs cooler on the highway or when there is airflow across the
radiator and get's hotter while you're idling it's definitely the
thermostat.  Turning on the AC will actually cause the electric fan to come
on and provide cooling to the radiator.


You claims of superior engineering is actually BMWs response to people
really not being able to read a gauge properly.  So the temp signal is sent
to the computer that determines whether the temp is in a normal range and
then sends the signal to the gauge to display.  That 12 o clock positions
actually is a pretty large range.

I hate those gauges.

Marco

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Batt, Jeff (MED)
Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 11:57 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [UUC] UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3?


Hello all,

I have a 1995 M3 with 86k on it.  On the way back to the office today from
lunch, my temp gauge didn't rise to the 12 o'clock position on the gauge.
Instead, it rose from cold (cold is roughly at the 10 o'clock position) to
about 10:30 or 11 o'clock.  The car had ample time to warm up - and in fact,
it should have been just about warmed up from driving to lunch.  Not sure if
this matters, but I did turn on the air cond on the way back to the office.
As soon as I noticed the strange temp reading, I turned off the air - but it
had no effect.  Back at the office parking lot, I popped the hood and
checked for obvious issues...didn't see anything and the car didn't seem to
be overheating or anything.

I've owned this car since 1999 and I'm 99.9% sure that the temp gauge has
ALWAYS moved from cold to the 12 o'clock position and then stayed basically
"locked" there - no matter what driving or environmental conditions are
thrown at it.  In fact, when talking to friends, I use this as an example of
superior BMW quality as my Jeep's temp gauge jumps all over the place.
I changed the water pump/coolant about 8 months ago - and I've had zero
issues.

Anyone else experience this?  Is there a reason the car wouldn't warm up or
is it more likely a bad gauge/sensor/connection?

I'm assuming that you can't change just this gauge? - but have to replace
the whole dash gauge cluster (as I've had done once all ready for a bad
speedo)?

Thanks!  Jeff

Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

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