The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 343 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Car Transport Re: Car Transport Re: <E34> upper exterior trim removal Re: Tac Problems Re: UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3? Re: <E30> OBC swap Re: <E30> OBC swap Re: <E30> OBC swap Re: <E30> OBC swap Re: Floor Jack Re: E30 Steering Rack Replacement Re: E30 Steering Rack Replacement Re: Auto Body in MA area BMW P Codes Re: BMW P Codes
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 15:41:56 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Car Transport Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I know this subject has been discussed previously, but not having the need at the time, I didn't take notes. I am looking for a car transport recommendation. The car will be transported from the San Jose area to Vancouver Washington. I appreciate any help on this. A contact phone number would also be appreciated. Cheers Steve Albrecht Cupertino, CA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 17:47:46 -0700 (PDT) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Car Transport Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I used Dependable Auto Shippers. Good service, phone tracking, no car damage (enclosed) cross-country. $1,400 from Pleasanton, CA to Burlington, MA. I think it's www.das.com HTH, Neil --- Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I know this subject has been discussed previously, > but not having the > need at the time, I didn't take notes. I am looking > for a car transport > recommendation. The car will be transported from the > San Jose area to > Vancouver Washington. I appreciate any help on > this. A contact phone > number would also be appreciated. > > Cheers > Steve Albrecht > Cupertino, CA > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 19:14:49 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E34> upper exterior trim removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You can usually pull these up and off by hand. You'll need to get a new rubber seal as well as a new trim, as the two are "one" once installed. To install, insert the new rubber into the trim, then place the assembly on the door and push down. It's hard, some silicone spray would help. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Gruppe: > > I am needing to remove the chrome trim piece that runs > along the external "window sill" of my '92 535i. This > is where you would rest your elbow if you didn't have > a 5sp and wanted to look like you were a cool 1954-ish > dude. > > I've read some web instructions which say to protect > the paint with some tape, then pry up on the trim with > a thin bladed screwdriver. Anybody BTDT? Also, is > replacement the reverse of removal? --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.742 / Virus Database: 495 - Release Date: 08/19/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 16:13:08 -0700 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Tac Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 11:48 AM 8/29/2004, Ed MacVaugh wrote: >I put on my tinfoil hat > >Neil Maller wrote: > >>Neil - putting on remote diagnosis tinfoil hat, nope, still can't tell >> Aren't tinfoil hats supposed to keep the brainwaves in, so the government can't read your minds? So, how does a tinfoil hat aid telepathic communication? Or, is that what happens if you put the dull side of the foil out, instead of the shiny side? Jim Ochi ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 20:26:36 -0400 From: "Steve Stoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian wrote: <A transmission cooler (if the car is equipped with one) is an oil to air radiator which is completely separate from the water to air engine cooling radiator.> I don't know if you are talking specifically about the car in question, or cars in general, but my 92 F150 w/auto definately has a tranny cooler that is plumbed to the same radiator that cools engine water. Now true, it may be an oil to air cooler, but trans fluid lines go in and come out of the only radiator in the truck. Steve Stoner-probably missing the point.. 97M3 5 speed. No tranny cooler. [Attachment of type application/ms-tnef removed.] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 18:26:21 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> OBC swap Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The 1989 325iS (stick) parts car has an OBC with the 1000 100 10 buttons. Can this OBC be swapped over to the '89 325i? Where is the "coding" plug? -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 21:37:26 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> OBC swap Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yes, it can be swapped. You need the complete OBC assembly, including it's wiring harness, horn, relay box, ambient temp sensor and the unit itself. The turn signal stalk is also related, but not necessary if you don't mind giving up the remote control it allows. It is not a difficult job to install, just make sure you get the wiring harness and everything that connects to it. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > The 1989 325iS (stick) parts car has an OBC with the 1000 100 10 buttons. > Can this OBC be swapped over to the '89 325i? Where is the "coding" plug? > > -Kevin --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.742 / Virus Database: 495 - Release Date: 08/19/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 21:52:10 -0400 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> OBC swap Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> yes, it's not too hard to get most of the functions OBC parts consist of display unit, harness, relay box (black plastic about 1.5" x 4" x 6" mounted near ABS ECU), turn signal switch, and horn. easiest is to put in the display unit and harness, then connect to the instrument cluster/ chime/ temperature sensor.. (all plug-and-play) you can also swap across the turn signal arm (it has an extra button on the end which cycles through OBC functions) but it's not required also possible is the relay box and which is like an ignition kill type setup.. when working properly you need to punch in a 4 digit code before you can start the car or the horn honks and the car won't start I skipped that part the coding plug is in the back of the OBC but if you're going from a 325i to a 325i you should be fine (different if you were going from a 4 cylinder to a 6) chris pawlowicz '89 325i '74 2002 ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 9:26 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] <E30> OBC swap > The 1989 325iS (stick) parts car has an OBC with the 1000 100 10 buttons. > Can this OBC be swapped over to the '89 325i? Where is the "coding" plug? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:40:35 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> OBC swap Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin, I wrote a very detailed "how to" on this subject and its floating on the web somewhere. So long as both '89 models are around the same production year, they are interchangeable. It just so happens that BMW changed between two types of temperature sensors in the front driver's air duct during that period. There are three functions of that unit that require parts to work. 1) Most detailed is the engine stop code feature where the bottom buttons permit the engine to be disabled until a 4 digit code is entered. That function requires a black plastic relay box and connections to be found from the factory harness in the recipient to effect this feature. I skip this feature because I like to keep my cars running and they are shared among four drivers. I can lead you through it if you really want it. 2) Basic functions most people like such as range and MPG and average speed the little demon has been driving are all a short harness between the instrument cluster and the cube. 3) Deluxe version of the above includes a replacement of the turn signal switch from the donor car to cycle between these functions of the display cube. All told from the donor car, you need a harness from the temp sensor in the front of the car to the cluster area (grab the sensor also, they are expensive), This harness includes a horn in the same area in the car's front to warn passersby that you botched the code entry process. You need the black relay box from the left footwell area. You need the large harness from the cluster area to the display cube. You need the turn signal stalk and switch. You need the display cube. All these parts unplug. cut no wires. some of the wires conncect to the DME in the glove box area. be careful with these. Coding plug is a white package shaped like a D.I.P. on the rear of the cube with numbers silk-screened onto it. numbers should be the same for a model year. Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >The 1989 325iS (stick) parts car has an OBC with the 1000 100 10 buttons. >Can this OBC be swapped over to the '89 325i? Where is the "coding" plug? > >-Kevin > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 19:12:36 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Floor Jack Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Saw this today while hunting for a transmission adaptor: Price seems reasonable. http://www.hugediscountmall.com/Heavy-duty-speedy-lift-hydraulic-floor-jack. p572.htm -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:19:44 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 Steering Rack Replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> haven't done _only_ a rack change on an E30, but have taken the rack out of mine as well as a couple of others. not really very difficult IIRC, maybe a half dozen bolts involved - two thru the subframe, two on the column linkage & two on the tie-rods. the tie rod ends can be a pain to get out, but since you should probably replace them anyway, you can just whack the hell out of them to get them loose :-) jackstands should be all you need to do the work, you don't need to have the car that high up to get it out. since you have a non-airbag car I'd look seriously into the swap to the quicker E36 rack, either the unique (quickest) '95 M3 rack or the '96+ rack (common on all E36's I believe) as they will provide a measurable improvement in the way the car turns and they're not likely to be much more money than a rebuilt E30 rack. IIRC I've seen them for around $250- $300 on eBay recently. Zionsville Autosport used to have the procedure outlined on their web page but I think they decided they could make more money charging people for the information. someone here or on the E30 yahoo group probably has the details saved somewhere. I don't think an '87 qualifies as "later" so whatever you might have to worry about on one wouldn't seem to apply to your car. other than the airbag steering column being different I don't think there is anything unique about the later cars, but I may be wrong. Ben Jim Farris wrote: > My 1987 325 is puking hydraulic fluid out both ends of the steering rack. I > am an accomplished back yard mechanic with all the necessary tools to > complete this job (a lift would be nice). How hard is it? On the later > E30s, do you have to lift the left side of the engine to get the rack out? > Looks like Griffiths has a decent price and warranty. Any advice on > difficulty and purchase locations would be appreciated. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:46:04 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 Steering Rack Replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you don't want to bend the subframe tabs down to clear the rack, you do need to loosen engine mounts and lift the engine on a block of wood under the oil pan to get enough clearance to remove the rack I think "later" means for Europe where early cars had manual racks which didn't require the engine lift to clear. Ed ben keyes wrote: >haven't done _only_ a rack change on an E30, but have >taken the rack out of mine as well as a couple of others. >not really very difficult IIRC, maybe a half dozen bolts >involved - two thru the subframe, two on the column >linkage & two on the tie-rods. the tie rod ends can be >a pain to get out, but since you should probably replace >them anyway, you can just whack the hell out of them >to get them loose :-) jackstands should be all you need >to do the work, you don't need to have the car that >high up to get it out. > >since you have a non-airbag car I'd look seriously into >the swap to the quicker E36 rack, either the unique (quickest) >'95 M3 rack or the '96+ rack (common on all E36's I believe) >as they will provide a measurable improvement in the way >the car turns and they're not likely to be much more money >than a rebuilt E30 rack. IIRC I've seen them for around $250- >$300 on eBay recently. > >Zionsville Autosport used to have the procedure outlined on >their web page but I think they decided they could make more >money charging people for the information. someone here or on the >E30 yahoo group probably has the details saved somewhere. > >I don't think an '87 qualifies as "later" so whatever you might >have to worry about on one wouldn't seem to apply to your >car. other than the airbag steering column being different >I don't think there is anything unique about the later cars, but >I may be wrong. > > > >Ben > > >Jim Farris wrote: > > > >>My 1987 325 is puking hydraulic fluid out both ends of the steering rack. I >>am an accomplished back yard mechanic with all the necessary tools to >>complete this job (a lift would be nice). How hard is it? On the later >>E30s, do you have to lift the left side of the engine to get the rack out? >>Looks like Griffiths has a decent price and warranty. Any advice on >>difficulty and purchase locations would be appreciated. >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:35:02 -0400 From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Auto Body in MA area Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Clyde, I have used Sansossio (I live in Natick) and I can attest to their skill and also their integrity. They put my E36 M3 back together so it drives like new. I am now friends with both big and little Phil and the guy Dave there is a magician. They work on E36's all day long so they have tons of experience with your car, and they are active sponsors and supporters of the BMW CCA, including hosting various events. I HIGHLY recommend them. -Mike Gilbert 97 M3 01 330xi -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of m3 drvr Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 12:12 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Auto Body in MA area If you are not located in the Mass area then you can discard this email. I am looking to get some small body work done to my M3 (E36) and I was think of using Sansossio Auto Body Inc in Natick, MA. I don't know any personally who has used them so I thought I would ask the list. Is there someone out there that has used them will good (or bad) results. Please let me know asap. Thanks in Adavance. Clyde _________________________________________________________________ Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and more! http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 08:39:37 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: BMW P Codes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Anyone have any info on the BMW specific P codes? While driving home in my 2002 330i (51K miles) last night the "Service engine soon" light came on. When I got home I read out the trouble codes and received the following: P171 System too lean (Bank 1) P7400 Manufacturer specific Additionally the engine sometimes seems to hesitate during acceleration at lower RPMs. These are the only symptoms that I have noticed since re-installing my oil pump nut this past weekend. I am guessing that there is some damage to the intake camshaft as a result of the oilpump failure, but that's a guess. I checked all of the intake hoses and they all appear to be tightly connected and I didn't remove any of the intake when I was working on the oilpan. Does anyone have any idea what the manufacturer specific P code means? I have tried searching the internet to no avail. Also, an oil analysis on what was in the car when the oilpump failed revealed nothing out of the ordinary. I was going to put about 500 miles on the new oil and get it tested again to see what that looks like. Thanks for any info. Jamie Howton ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 10:36:56 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: BMW P Codes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> www.bmwtis.com There's a section on converting PCodes. Note they are VIN specific, you cannot get the info without your VIN. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Anyone have any info on the BMW specific P codes? While driving home in > my 2002 330i (51K miles) last night the "Service engine soon" light came > on. When I got home I read out the trouble codes and received the > following: > > P171 System too lean (Bank 1) > P7400 Manufacturer specific > > Additionally the engine sometimes seems to hesitate during acceleration > at lower RPMs. These are the only symptoms that I have noticed since > re-installing my oil pump nut this past weekend. I am guessing that > there is some damage to the intake camshaft as a result of the oilpump > failure, but that's a guess. I checked all of the intake hoses and they > all appear to be tightly connected and I didn't remove any of the intake > when I was working on the oilpan. Does anyone have any idea what the > manufacturer specific P code means? I have tried searching the internet > to no avail. > > Also, an oil analysis on what was in the car when the oilpump failed > revealed nothing out of the ordinary. I was going to put about 500 > miles on the new oil and get it tested again to see what that looks > like. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.745 / Virus Database: 497 - Release Date: 08/27/2004 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
