The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 340 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3? Re: E46 LSD interaction with DSC Re: Tac Problems Re: Tac Problems OT: GE Healthcare Tach Problems [e34] Failing Diff Re: Tac Problems Re: Tac Problems e30 325IS rear wing Re: e30 325IS rear wing [OT-FS] 1984 Renault R5 Turbo2 E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 23:32:28 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "ben keyes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Lee wrote: > > > It must be one hell of a signal filter they have there, but > without it, they > > would probably get a million complaints a day. In BMW's, even > in cars as > > old as my E30, this gauge has been reduced to little more than > a fancy idiot > > light. > > you sure about that ? in my E30 the gauge is a lot more active than > it was in the M coupe. the gauge in the E28 is very much real as well > as it will move when you turn on the heater. IIRC temp sender on the > engine does put out a usable value, the cluster just converts it into > one of the pre-set ranges. I think there's a part of the cluster test > which will show you a hex value which is related to the temp reading, > but I don't recall if it's an actual temp reading. probably not. I agree with Ben, my water temperature gauges in all of my past and present E30s moved a fair bit based on the temperature (and maintains different settings based on the different thermostats I have had). They will rise if left idling or in stop and go traffic, etc. and then quickly drop once moving, etc. E36 is another matter and is nearly useless, but the E30s work nicely. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 23:49:42 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E46 LSD interaction with DSC Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> DSC intervention will be delayed with an LSD. DSC functionality will not be effected in any way with LSD. Currently, you have three choices of LSD for this car. Be very careful about which one you pick. There are currently three choices for LSD in an E46/E39 6 cylinder. 1. Hiop. First on the market. Gear driven. Similar in idea to Torsen and Quaife. Requires 8mm of housing material to be removed just to get it into the housing. There's only 24mm of material there, so that's asking for trouble. 2. Kaaz. Multi disc Salisbury style. Apparently fits with no modification to the housing, which means 4 cylinder sized components. (this is the one sold by VAC, although they claim it's their own) 3. Performance Gearing unit. 3 disc salisbury unit, 20/90 ramps, the unit of choice in World Challenge racing. D'uh! Guess which one I build. Which, I might add, is the most expensive, AND has the best warranty. Brett Anderson KMS www.bmwdiffs.com -----Original Message----- Anyone have any experience or insight on what happens with the factory DSC when a limited slip differential is installed on an E46 (2002 330i specifically). I am pondering raiding my penny jar to put a limited slip in my car but I am concerned that the electronics are not going to want to give up control to the diff and will continue to apply the brakes at inappropriate times. I could just turn the DSC off of course, but AFAIK there's no way to do that permenantly and it's a PITA to do it every time I start the car. Thanks Jamie Howton --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.742 / Virus Database: 495 - Release Date: 08/19/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 23:50:18 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Tac Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The unit is controlled by fuses, check them all. That signal comes via wire from the DME (engine computer) housed above the glove box. Check for a broken wire or loose connector. Ed Kiely, John '06 wrote: >Does anyone know of another reason for a broken tachometer other than the SI >batteries. My dad and I replaced them and the tachometer still doesn't work. All >ideas are helpful. > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 04:54:15 +0000 From: "Evan A" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Tac Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Did you charge the batteries before installation? Could be the cause (or not if the tach really is dead). Evan >Does anyone know of another reason for a broken tachometer other than the >SI >batteries. My dad and I replaced them and the tachometer still doesn't >work. All ideas are helpful. _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 05:27:47 GMT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: OT: GE Healthcare Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>Jeff Batt >>OVC Manager >>GE Healthcare >>Ultrasound This is the first time I have noticed GE Ultrasound made itself known at the UUC. After 30 years of watching GE "play around" with ultrasound it is nice to know they are serious. Must be, if the staff are driving older BMWs and taking the fact seriously. Michael Andre, Ph.D. Chief, Physics & Engineering School of Medicine University of California, San Diego ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 22:50:21 -0700 From: "Kiely, John '06" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Tach Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To clarify, 2006 is the year I will graduate high school, and the car with tachometer problems is my 1989 325i. I am sure the batteries were installed charged because they were tested with a DMM before instalation and read 1.3 volts. Meaning they were charged. John ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 11:02:15 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [e34] Failing Diff Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The diff on my 91 525i is dying after 225,xxx miles. You can hear the pinion bearing starting to howl. In lieu of rebuilding the diff ($$$) I am looking for a used one ($), preferably 3.25:1. Must be LSD. Any offers? Steve Rowe in Va ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 11:31:03 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Tac Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 8/28/04 10:23 PM, "Kiely, John '06" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Does anyone know of another reason for a broken tachometer other than the SI > batteries. My dad and I replaced them and the tachometer still doesn't work. > All ideas are helpful. Depends on whether your car is, say, a 1972 2002 or a 2002 M3 or... Neil - putting on remote diagnosis tinfoil hat, nope, still can't tell 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 14:48:06 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Tac Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I put on my tinfoil hat, recalled his Dad posting questions about an E30 for his son. Ed Neil Maller wrote: >Depends on whether your car is, say, a 1972 2002 or a 2002 M3 or... > >Neil - putting on remote diagnosis tinfoil hat, nope, still can't tell > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 12:57:58 -0400 From: Don Stevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: e30 325IS rear wing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> hi AC Snitzer made a wing for the e30 325IS that was designed to fit over the factory spoiler. They are probably very hard to find. A few years back I found one on this digest that was painted the same color as my car. Keep a look out for one as it is a nice alternative to removing the factory piece and plugging the holes etc. Don Stevenson BMWCCA Boston 1988 325IS KP#49 1987 325IS Street (AC Snitzer rear wing) **************************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee only and may contain privileged or confidential information. Unless you are the intended recipient, you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone any information contained in this message. If you have received this message in error, please notify the author by replying to this message and then kindly delete the message. Thank you. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 13:01:38 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: e30 325IS rear wing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> got pics ? there are all sorts of E30 wings out there, some sorta neat, some just strange. I like the M-technic I wing, which is a narrower version of the wing which everyone is familiar with on E28 M5's & 535iS. The M-technic II is a bit too modern for my taste on the E30. the bodykit is nice tho. Ben Don Stevenson wrote: >AC Snitzer made a wing for the e30 325IS that was designed to fit over the >factory spoiler. They are probably very hard to find. A few years back I >found one on this digest that was painted the same color as my car. Keep a >look out for one as it is a nice alternative to removing the factory piece >and plugging the holes etc. > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 14:23:05 -0400 From: "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [OT-FS] 1984 Renault R5 Turbo2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> i want to sell my 1984 Renault R5 Turbo2. it'll go on ebay soon, but i thought i'd offer it here first. no, it isn't a BMW, but it's a cool little car, and really fast. info and pics: http://www.kwyjibo.com/r5 $15,000 firm, garaged in northern virginia. m. 1999 Ranger 1993 525iT 1984 R5 Turbo2 (FS) 1977 Argosy 28 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 15:39:30 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A friend is shopping for an E36. While he is knowledgeable on E30s and E39s, he wanted a second opinion on this '94 325is, so he asked me to come along on his second test drive. Why he asked me I have no idea, since I've never owned an E36 and have precious little experience even driving them, but what the heck? I was supposed to be installing my trailing arms this weekend, but they're still locked up in Bill Arnold's shop where I can't get them, so I had some spare time. 1. While sitting with the engine idling, I pushed the button to raise the driver's side window. It is supposed to have express up, but it obviously doesn't work. Even if I just held the window up button, it would go 2 or 3 inches, and then go back down an inch. Start up, go back down. Start up, go back down. Eventually I got it up by tapping on the button and moving the window in roughly half inch increments. I speculate that this is either A) the window travel limit switches in the door being fuxored up or out of adjustment, or B) a failed electronic window control module. Anyone with this experience out there? What fixed it? 2. We've had hot weather lately, and the AC was very cold. So eventually I asked my friend if he had tried the heater yet, and he hadn't. So while still sitting with the engine idling, we switched off the AC and turned up the heat. The knob that controls the vents works fine, but the air never got hot. I suggested leaving the heater on while we drove away, just to see if it had an effect. Sure enough, as soon as we started driving, we got heat. But none at idle. Remembering the water pumps with the plastic impellers, I suggested that the car needs a water pump. But the dash temp gauge stays right in the middle of the range, at least while I was looking at it. So maybe the heat control valve? But why would this not work at idle? Anyone? Buehler? TIA for any feedback on these matters. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 16:29:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Eventually I got it up by >tapping on the button and moving the window in roughly half inch >increments. One thing to try, once you have the window up hold the up button for like 20-30 seconds. Try the button again and see what happens... My windoz seemed confused after I disconnected the battery the other day, this reset them to normal. > I speculate that this is either A) the window travel limit switches > in the door being fuxored up or out of adjustment You know for an E30 guy you sure have a lot of theories. ;-) > Remembering the water pumps with the plastic impellers, I suggested > that the car needs a water pump. But the dash temp gauge stays right > in the middle of the range, at least while I was looking at it. Hah! You probably haven't been following the threads here but that's not a real gauge, it's more of an idiot gauge. If it's not perfectly straight up, guess what? Hey idiot your car is broken! :-) I would recommend that if the water pump hasn't been replaced to do so right away after he buys the car, along with that you should replace the t-stat, the t-stat housing to the metal one, etc. If those are the only two issues with this car I would buy it. The E36s I looked at were far worse than this one you describe. Carlos. one E30 one E36 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 17:10:09 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Carlos Lopez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carlos, thanks for the quick reply. We have no idea if the water pump has ever been changed. Any such history stayed with one of the first three owners. It is now with owner #4. These are not the only things wrong with the car. There's also a somewhat damaged LF fender, a very slightly damaged nose panel, the shocks are shot, it probably needs brakes, there was an intermittant ABS light after we cycled the ASC off and on, and the replacement battery's vent has no hose connected. But the engine and driveline seem solid, the paint is fine and the interior will be OK after a decent cleaning. My friend can fix most of the problems himself. And if he decides to proceed, he'll get his mechanic to inspect it first, just to be sure there is nothing else that we didn't find. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carlos Lopez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 4:29 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues > --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >Eventually I got it up by > >tapping on the button and moving the window in roughly half inch > >increments. > > One thing to try, once you have the window up hold the up button for > like 20-30 seconds. Try the button again and see what happens... My > windoz seemed confused after I disconnected the battery the other day, > this reset them to normal. > > > I speculate that this is either A) the window travel limit switches > > in the door being fuxored up or out of adjustment > > You know for an E30 guy you sure have a lot of theories. ;-) > > > Remembering the water pumps with the plastic impellers, I suggested > > that the car needs a water pump. But the dash temp gauge stays right > > in the middle of the range, at least while I was looking at it. > > Hah! You probably haven't been following the threads here but that's > not a real gauge, it's more of an idiot gauge. If it's not perfectly > straight up, guess what? Hey idiot your car is broken! :-) > > I would recommend that if the water pump hasn't been replaced to do so > right away after he buys the car, along with that you should replace > the t-stat, the t-stat housing to the metal one, etc. If those are the > only two issues with this car I would buy it. > > The E36s I looked at were far worse than this one you describe. > > Carlos. > one E30 > one E36 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
