Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Eric Frank
Cats Paw
C 35 MkII
1974
Sail #: 60642
efran...@mac.com 
Mattapoisett, MA


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Bruce:
Cat’s Paw also has an external strainer, but made of bronze.  We have never had 
trouble with it - either during many years in the Chesapeake Bay or for the 
last 15 years here in Massachusetts in Buzzards Bay.  We haul every year, and I 
scrape off any barnacles etc at that time, often unscrewing the strainer from 
the hull to clean out between it and the cooling intake fitting.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> On Jun 19, 2019, at 10:04 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up
> Message-ID: <884e1071-c17b-a966-23cf-1aba775a0...@eastlink.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Bruce:
> 
> I have same thing except it is plastic...glued it on with 3M 5200 in 
> 2006 and it is still there and works finehave never had an issue 
> with with raw water intake fouling.
> 
> Rob Abbott


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Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I used this Magnets technique to install a garboard drain on my 35 Mk2 with 
great success 3 years ago. Can’t remember who suggested it on this list serve 
but it works very well.  Moving the magnets around, I found the lowest place in 
the bilge that still had the hole coming out in a suitable place where the keel 
is attached to the hull. Drilling from the outside, once the position was 
marked, was easy and the angle, perpendicular to the contour of the hull/keel 
joint, came out just where the internal magnet had been located.  Drilled a 
pilot hole first to make sure it came out at the right place in the bilge. An 
improvement this winter was to pull a piece of absorbent cloth thru the hole 
and hanging down a few inches on the outside, which acted like a wick. This 
kept the bilge completely dry all winter. Based on an earlier suggestion on 
this list serve to use a wick to drain the low point on the deck thru one of 
the holes in the toe rail, where it also works very well.

Eric Frank, C 35 Mk II, Mattapoisett, MA

> 
> I believe someone here suggested Magnets, which at the time I thought 
> wouldn?t connect through that thickness, but I tried with a pair of very 
> strong magnets at the point that I wanted, but didn?t think I could B/C of 
> where I thought the lead would be, and voila, the outside magnet stuck to the 
> Inside Magnet!
> 
> Which means, of course, that you can drill from the outside and not be taking 
> a blind chance.
> Bill Coleman
> 
> C 39 Erie, PA


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Re: Stus-List Speaker...

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

This is a great idea.  If he would like a “speakers fee”, each of us who 
listens could make a contribution. I would be happy to make one myself.
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw

> All,
> I was recently introduced to the gentlemen who sailed across the Atlantic on 
> his C 27 Mk 5 in 1992.
> He has graciously accepted my offer to have him speak  of his experience to 
> our group via conference call.
> Is there interest?
> David F. Risch, J. D.


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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Pictures of the access hatch I installed several yeas ago are now posted in a 
Dropbox folder (named C) which you can view here: 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/44pjga1qixliadz/AACVsjFhGwprwuDydjV-yF5Xa?dl=0

The dimensions of the hatch are approximately 17 X 12.5 inches. What looks like 
the identical hatch is still posted for sale on Ebay. Several sites show the 
same product. At least one of them is based in the US, and the price is lower 
than I remembered:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOAT-DECK-HATCH-ACCESS-HATCH-LID-17-1-4-x12-2-5-MARINE-ACCESS-HATCH-WHITE/191080155234?hash=item2c7d43c862:g:5jEAAOSwYSlXgLZg:rk:1:pf:0

As I mentioned before, the quality of the construction appears to be solid and 
the gasket does not leak and has held up well for the 4 years since I installed 
it.

> Several folks on the list seem to be interested in seeing the access panel I 
> installed in the rear of Cat’s Paw's cockpit.  I’ll be at the boat Sunday or 
> Monday and will take pictures of the installation, so I can post them in the 
> Public folder of my Dropbox.  I’ll post the URL of that folder when I post 
> the pictures (not knowing how to post them properly like most of our list 
> serve obviously know!).


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Several folks on the list seem to be interested in seeing the access panel I 
installed in the rear of Cat’s Paw's cockpit.  I’ll be at the boat Sunday or 
Monday and will take pictures of the installation, so I can post them in the 
Public folder of my Dropbox.  I’ll post the URL of that folder when I post the 
pictures (not knowing how to post them properly like most of our list serve 
obviously know!).

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List removing sea shells from an Airmar speed sensor

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks for the input, Jim.  I had gotten most of the shells off with my small 
Swiss Army knife, as you suggest, and then tried soaking in water, but that 
didn’t remove the small pieces of shell still there.  So I immersed the paddle 
wheel in vinegar, checking frequently to make sure it didn’t soften the plastic 
(it didn’t).  All the rest of the shells disappeared in about 30 minutes - 
worked perfectly.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Any dilute acid should work, even lemon juice. I have successfully used a
> product called Acid Magic, but you don't need to get that fancy. My current
> tool of choice is a small Swiss Army knife and a soak in fresh water.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC


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Stus-List removing sea shells from an Airmar speed sensor

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I’ve chipped off most of the small barnacles and other sea life from the speed 
sensor, but how does one clean off the remaining small shells without damaging 
the plastic?  Does vinegar work? Other chemicals?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List where to find a 3/4 to 1 1/8 inch hose adaptor

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Replacing the small automatic electric bilge pump - selected one with a 3/4 
inch output, but old one had 1 1/8 inch.  Can’t find a hose adaptor to make the 
change so I can keep using the old discharge hose. Suggestions welcome.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

The automatic bilge pump in Cat’s Paw is fairly old (2011) and although it 
still works fine, it requires a separate float switch (also old) which is 
located in a shallower part of the bilge so leaves about 4 inches of water at 
the pump when it turns off.  I am looking for a replacement that has the water 
level switch in the pump.  There are lots of these for sale, but what is the 
list’s recommendation?  The old pump is a Shurflo (sp?) 355-100-00, rated at 
1000 gals/hr , - the label says it draws 7.35 amps (but I 
haven’t measured it).  Is Shurflo even made any more? I see Rule pumps and lots 
of brands I have never heard of on line. The automatic pumps I found online 
leave about 2 inches of water - is that the best we can do? And what pumps last 
well?  Advice welcome.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List radiator cap replacement

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks, Rick.  Very helpful. I downloaded the manual.
Eric

Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2018 20:09:17 -0400
From: "Rick Taillieu" mailto:rtailli...@cogeco.ca>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List radiator cap replacement
Message-ID: <000b01d3febc$f137a960$d3a6fc20$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Eric,
You can find a manual here 
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Perkins-Perama-M30-3618920.html 

It shows a 7 psi cap for your engine.
Rick Taillieu___

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Stus-List radiator cap replacement

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

The radiator cap on my Perkins diesel engine (Perkins Perma M30, installed by 
the PO around 1982) is badly rusted.  It’s easy to find a replacement that fits 
physically, but what opening pressure rating should it have? At 2000-3000 rpm, 
the temperature gauge reads about 175 F degrees.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List 38 Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked (Dreuge)

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Paul,
  Greg Swetka and I each had a replacement bow roller made by White Water 
Marine in Michigan.  We both have CC 35 MkII’s. Greg sent them his original 
aluminum casting (without the bow roller) and they made one of stainless steel 
with a single bow roller for each of us for about $1200. For $200 more, they 
added stanchion sockets and new stanchions to the bow casting as it extended 
further aft than the old one (without the roller).  It fit beautifully and I 
have had no trouble with it. White Water people were very pleasant to deal with 
- I talked mostly with Mike.
Eric Frank
Cat’s Paw
Mattapoisett, MA

> On Jun 1, 2018, at 11:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Fred,
> 
> Sorry for the late reply I have been away from my laptop and hate writing 
> emails via my phone.  
> 
> I am amazed that you have a spare sitting around.  I have started looking 
> into different fabricators and have received a quote back from Stainless 
> Outfitters. It looks like they do great work, but they are pricey.   The 
> estimated price was $1,500 with one bow roller and $2,220 for two bow 
> rollers.They did say that they would need the original so that they could 
> match the mounting holes and rigging attachment.   
> 
> Have a look at their website on stemheads: 
> https://stainlessoutfitters.com/products/marine/stainless-stemheads/ 
>   >.
> 
> 
> Also, I have started looking into designing and having one fabricating 
> locally.  Material costs for 316 stainless and hardware will likely range 
> $500 - $800.

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Re: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the helpful input. As some suggested, the problem is almost 
certainly a clogged exhaust elbow.  Several years ago (7 or 8?) the same thing 
happened but as we were motoring slowly up to our mooring. The yard fixed it by 
replacing the exhaust elbow.  So it is clearly time to do that again. Thanks 
especially to Francois Rivard, who supplied a detailed description of the 
problem and its solution.  BTW, some asked what engine it is.  It’s a Perkins 
Perama M30, installed by the PO, probably around 1985. Showing its age in terms 
of surface rust, but still running fine. 
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

 Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw 
water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching.  Always use 
a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new impeller every 
year) just to make sure things are working.  Engine started fine but no water 
out the exhaust. Impeller was turning when I cranked the engine so thought the 
problem might be downstream of that. A mechanic at the yard reported back that 
things were fine and he just had to run the engine at a high RPM to get the raw 
water flowing.  Anyone else experience that? Does it suggest that the tubes 
where the raw water cools the engine water could be getting clogged? Advice 
appreciated.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Corrosion is precisely the reason my Whale manual bilge pump is working so 
poorly.  In the 9 years I have owned Cats Paw, I have replaced the rubber 
flapper valves 3 times - most recently last year.  But this no longer solves 
the corrosion problem of the metal pump, which keeps the flapper valves from 
closing well.  I also installed a one-way rubber flap valve on the intake of 
the hose to facilitate priming the pump, but that has been insufficient to 
solve the problem caused by corrosion of the pump itself.

A similar pump (also a Whale I think) continues to work well.  One reason is 
that the pump (under the washstand) is not located above the holding tank, but 
from Dennis’s description, it probably also helps that we use “fresh” water 
from the water tank to flush the head, so salt water never remains in the pump. 
 And, of course, most of our sailing is not far offshore, so the holding tank 
is pumped out by the boatyard launch.

Are there other brands of manual pumps I could replace the Whale pump with that 
do not have this problem? Perhaps made of a corrosion-resistant material? That 
might be a better, and more permanent solution.

Eric Frank
Cat’s Paw, CC35 II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Hot button rant!
> 
> If any lister has an alloy (metal) body Whale or other brand manual bilge
> pump, I *STRONGLY* suggest you disassemble it and inspect the sealing
> surfaces.  These pumps, particularly when in salt or brackish water
> service, are subject to corrosion and pitting.  If the corrosion is severe,
> the pump may not prime or pump.
> 
> When I bought Touche', I inspected the pump and found it to be essentially
> unusable due to severe pitting and corrosion on the sealing surfaces.  A
> service kit would have been worthless.  I bought a new pump.  Before
> installing the new pump, I disassembled it, coated the sealing surfaces
> with TefGel and reassembled.
> 
> Kevin Benoit just bought a 35-2 and ran into the same issue.  He also
> bought a new pump and coated the surfaces.
> 
> I clean Touche's bilge about twice a year.  I use the electric pump to
> empty the bilge until the water is clean dock (city) water.  I then test
> the manual bilge pump and use it to empty the bilge leaving clean dock
> water in the pump.
> 
> If, for whatever reason, I use the manual pump to remove brackish or salt
> water from the bilge, I flush the bilge with dock water and leave dock
> water in the manual pump.
> 
> Please test your manual pump at least annually and inspect it if you've
> never done so.  This pump may not only save your boat, it may save you and
> your family!!
> 
> Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

My CC 35 II (1974) also has a manual (Whale) bilge pump in the cockpit, and I 
notice that sometimes I have to pump very hard to suck the water from the bilge 
up to the pump so it starts pumping.  Presumably there is some leakage of water 
past the intake valve with just air in the system - at times it’s a real 
nuisance although I very rarely use the manual pump. So perhaps an electric 
pump in the bilge in series with the manual pump located quite a lot higher in 
the cockpit would be good for priming the manual pump, which would then not 
require the battery to keep pumping.  In Cats Paw, that is not the arrangement: 
two separate pump lines going to two separate thru-hulls.  But after reading 
this on-going discussion, I wonder if maybe some owners have implemented that 
arrangement.  It is comforting to know that it’s possible to go on pumping even 
if the battery has run down.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Bruce,

Yes, people on this list have very different opinions about PoliGlow - my 
experience has been favorable.  I’ve been using it every spring since buying 
Cat's Paw (bright red hull) in 2009 with good results. If there is a haze 
anywhere, Poliglow does not get rid of that, as the directions warn. And 
getting rid of the haze is hard work (have not tried ammonia, so I will try 
that this spring). The company recommends removing that haze before applying 
Poliglow, and if you don’t, the haze is definitely visible under the new 
Poliglow - haze with a shine!.  But if the haze is removed, the result is 
excellent - very bright and shiny - and it lasts the whole season.  It does 
require 6 or 7 coats, but dries in minutes, so I just go around the boat (with 
a leather-like rag on a stick) that many times - it takes about 10 minutes to 
go around once (a 35’ hull). Routinely get comments about how good it looks, 
and it’s still very bright the following spring when I do it again.  Cat's Paw 
is kept on jack stands for the winter but spends the entire summer on a mooring 
(Buzzards Bay is salt water), so plenty of sun and salt air. Despite the many 
critics, I’ll keep using it.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Bruce Whitmore 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
> Message-ID: <341358156.172875.1524492543...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> I have historically had very good experience with PoliGlow in the Chicago 
> area - 16 years, as a matter of fact.? That said, for some reason here in 
> Florida, people swear at the stuff (rather than swearing by it).? They say it 
> yellows and is nearly impossible to remove. I don't know the reality either 
> way down here, at least as of yet.
> I understand the remover is ammonia (and industrial strength at that).? How 
> difficult is it to remove in reality?? 
> 
> For those of you who have worked with it in year-round hot, sunny, seawater 
> exposed environments, what say to about the stuff?
> I'd really like to go back to it, but I've gotten an awful lot of pushback 
> from the locals... 
> 
> Thanks for your input, 
> ?Bruce Whitmore



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Re: Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

On Cat’s Paw, I installed a Nicro solar vent over the head like Jim (as an 
exhaust) and then an additional one over the hanging locker on the starboard 
side (as intake) using the two raised areas on the deck where dorades are often 
installed (none on Cat’s Paw). There was already a Nicro vent in the main hatch 
(intake) like the one John wants to install.  Also modified the Plexiglass 
companion way “door” with a metal vent as an additional exhaust, which was 
important to keep good airflow through the cabin.  This has really helped with 
mold during the winter and keeping the air fresh in the cabin during the 
summer.  Although rain-proof (sloping horizontal metal pieces), it is certainly 
not waterproof, so in heavy weather I take the sliding “door” out and replace 
it with the 4 teak boards that came with the boat.  

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> I replaced the passive mushroom over the head with a Nicro solar, keeps the
> boat nice and fresh. I gave up on fixing hatch problems and replaced
> everything with new Lewmars.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> On 6 April 2018 at 19:22, John Conklin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> 
>> I would like to add a vent to my main cabin Hatch is this a big deal ?
>> Remove hatch trace cut? Or remove lens,  cut, router, sand, seal ?
>> 
>> I love my new 37 (1982) and shes dry as a bone  problem is  o circualtion
>> when I am gone for weeks on end
>> 
>> diesel smell?   but the coach widows are fixed (and hazed over  so those
>> are on the hit list also !  and I cant leave the 2 opening ports open or
>> boat will fill with water  So the solar vent in hatch would help right ?
>> 
>> Thanks !
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> John Conklin



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Re: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Rick,
The windows on Cat’s Paw (CC35 MkII) also need to be reset.  Do you know of a 
supplier in the US? Doesn’t have to be close to Boston, but someplace easy to 
order from for US sailors. 

Thanks, Eric 
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

The PO changed from the original stuffing box to a PSS seal on Cat’s Paw 
sometime between 1980 (when my father sold the boat to him) and 2004 (when I 
bought her back).  That PSS did not have the vent tube option.  There was some 
wear on the carbon(?) face (that seals to the SS part) although no drips I 
could tell, but I decided to replace the PSS with a new one in 2009. The new 
one has the vent tube.  I routed the tube out into the left cockpit locker 
(always running upwards) and ran it up to just under the seat, so well above 
the waterline - have never used a bottle to collect overflow; if it occurs, it 
would just flow down into the bilge. The directions suggested sliding the SS 
part forward along the prop shaft to avoid continually compressing the rubber 
part of the seal, so I have done that each winter.  Test it each spring (in the 
water) running at full speed to check for leaks and occasionally during the 
sailing season. Never saw any.  Engine use is not heavy - probably 100-200 
hours per season, so perhaps that helps explain why no leaks.  But it certainly 
has worked well on Cat’s Paw.

Eric Frank
Cat’s Paw, CC35 MkII, built in 1974
Mattapoisett, MA




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Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Bill,
  I couldn’t find 8 inch wide tape on Dr. Shrink’s website, or on Amazon.  
Could you post the URL you used to order it?
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw

> I've had great success with 8" shrink wrap tape from Dr. Shrink.  Clean the 
> mast and collar with a solvent first.  The tape sticks to the mast and itself 
> tenaciously!
> 
> Bill Smith
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Joe and Joel,
I have used ShipModul Miniplex2 for many years to send NMEA data from the chart 
plotter at the helm to MacENC to a Mac laptop using USB, but more recently 
using it to convert the NMEA to wifi so it can be sent to an iPad.  I’ve been 
using iNavX on the iPad, but probably other software works as well. You connect 
the iPad to the Wifi name and then tell iNavX what host and port that the 
Miniplex is transmitting on.  Explained clearly in the iNavX program.  Seems to 
work very well.

Eric
Cats Paw
Mattapoisett, MA


> On Nov 6, 2017, at 11:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring
> Message-ID:
>   

Stus-List Replacing Perkins ignition switch

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

The ignition switch on my Perkins control panel (engine installed in 1980) lost 
its hinged rubber cover a couple of years ago, and now no longer springs back 
from the glow plugs only position. Can people on this list suggest where to 
purchase a replacement switch? It has several positions: off, on, glow plugs 
only, start. The switch now doesn’t automatically remove power from the glow 
plugs when the key is released.  The rest of the panel is still working well 
(temperature and RPM gauges) so I would rather replace just the switch.  I have 
included a picture of the panel here: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/txkent6abpwpdvm/PerkinsControlPanel.JPG?dl=0

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Recommendation for 33-3 bow roller

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

So sorry, Bill. I remember the lovely sail we had several years ago when I was 
up at our family cottage in Pentwater, and then mixed up the names.  It is Greg 
Swetka who has a C, just like my Cat’s Paw. He had a bow roller made by 
White Water Marine, and then helped me get them to make one for my boat.
Eric

> Hi Eric,
>  Not me, I have a CnC 36...no bow roller..you must be thinking of someone 
> else.
> Bill Walker 


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Re: Stus-List Recommendation for 33-3 bow roller

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Doug,
I had White Water Marine make one for Cat’s Paw (CC35 Mk II), based on the 
positive reports from Bill Walker (on this list) who had them do his.  Bill 
sent his bow fitting (which had no roller) to them last winter and they 
fabricated one that fit perfectly and works well.  Since Bill’s boat and mine 
are the same, I had White Water make another one just like his, and again it 
fit perfectly and is a delight to use.  Bill might want to comment on this as 
well - I think he was also very pleased.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Doug Welch >
> To: C List >
> Subject: Stus-List Recommendation for 33-3 bow roller
> 
> Any recommendations for a replacement anchor roller. ?Ideally I want one that 
> will hold a 15 kg Rocna, ?protect the deck to the anchor locker, have a place 
> to attach a block for a code 0 tack line and an easy way to secure the anchor 
> when not deployed.?
> Thanks in advance
> Doug
> 33-2 c/b
> 
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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

David,
  Planning to sail from Mattapoisett to Point Judith on Thursday, then on to 
Greenport on Friday.  A bit worried about the weather, bur we will see.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II

> On Sep 3, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>  Original message 
> From: David via CnC-List   >>
> Date: 9/1/17 2:34 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: CNC CNC   >>
> Cc: David   >>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
> 
> Edgartown to Block island to Shelter Island to Greenport to Newport hence 
> home to Marion, MA
> 
> As long as the cruising gods allow me this year.
> 
> C & C 40-2
> Corsair.

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Re: Stus-List mast gate

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Bill,
I installed a mast gate from Tom Luque at mastgate.com  
in 2013. At that time he was making them of quite thin SS, for use in smaller 
boats, and it bent when I put in a double reef on the main.  So had a friend 
machine a beefier one from aluminum and that has worked well. Tom was 
interested in the design, so I sent him the design drawings and a picture:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wobu6jod6x9lonb/MastTrack.pdf?dl=0 


Tom recently started fabricating them using my design and I think is making 
them with a 3D printer - don’t know the material. I can send you the drawings I 
made with all the dimensions, and that would be right for your boat as our 
boats are identical - CC35 MkII.  

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Advice for PYI shaft seal maintenance

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Josh,
I do use a MacMaster shaft collar and it works well.  The problem is that the 
PYI shaft collar does not slide easily on the prop shaft, so I can't push it 
aft to compress the bellows.  Maybe some lubrication would help.  And I won't 
loosen the PYI collar again on haul out, as your experience suggests. 

But Jim - what is a zinc donut?  No idea about that. Is it edible? Ah, Google 
revealed what they are. 

Eric


> 'A regular zinc donut works well as a retainer, no need for fancy. It also
> provides insurance against the shaft sliding out backwards if the coupler
> and everything else lets go.
> 
> Jim Watts

> McMaster Carr has SS shaft collars which are relatively easy to install.
> These are used and recommended a a redundant holding device.  They could
> also be used to hold the collar until the grub screws were set.
> 

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Stus-List Advice for PYI shaft seal maintenance

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

For winterizing the PYI shaft seal on Cat's Paw, it was recommended that I 
loosen the SS collar on the prop shaft so the rubber bellows is not compressed. 
 I'm now trying to compress the bellows again before launching - PYI recommends 
compressing it about 3/4 inch.  It's difficult to compress the bellows and 
tighten the set screws at the same time, given the limited access to that area 
(under bilge and exhaust hoses).  Any suggestions for holding the bellows 
compressed temporarily while I tighten the set screws?

Eric Frank
Cat’s Paw, C 35 MkII
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List furling line

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I do as well.  A big help.

Eric Frank  Cat's Paw

> On May 29, 2017, at 11:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 30 May 2017 02:48:48 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic >
> To: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List furling line
> Message-ID:
>   
>   
> >
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I do.
> 
> Marek
> 
> Sent from Mail > for Windows 10
> 
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List >
> Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 21:49
> To: CnClist>
> Cc: Dennis C.>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List furling line
> 
> How many of you have a ratcheting block on your furling line?
> 
> Dennis C.




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Re: Stus-List Lazy Jack advice

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks for the helpful replies.  I do have a rigid vang supporting the boom, so 
that is not a problem.  Once the sail is down and we are on the mooring, I also 
carry the main halyard aft and attach it to where the topping lift used to 
attach.  From your inputs so far, it sounds like 4 lines is overkill. When 
aboard overnight, I leave the lazy jacks attached to the boom, so they don’t 
make noise knocking against the mast, and because they are not supporting the 
boom (rigid vang + main halyard as a topping lift), I plan to leave them 
attached to the boom.  

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> I would advise against using the lazy jacks for supporting the boom. A 
> topping lift or a rigid vang is much better for that.
> 
> You have to put together enough vertical lines, so that the sail will not 
> droop between them. This depends on the sail cloth, battens and obviously, 
> the length of the boom. 
> 
> The boom on my boat is over 11 ft. and I found that 2 lines wasn't enough 
> (even with a pretty stiff sail cloth and full battens); I modified it to 
> three lines. The lines are spread, generally, evenly along the boom. You may 
> want to have shorter distances closer to the mast (more sailcloth to catch). 
> I did attach the top lines to the spreaders about 15 cm from the mast (far 
> enough to leave some opening, close enough that the leverage is not too 
> much). I don't have any problems with the battens catching on the lazy jacks 
> - I loosen them before hoisting the sail and I make sure that I am right up 
> wind when I do so.
> 
> If you want to fiddle a bit with the arrangement, try to come up with a 
> system where you can take all the lines all the way to the mast. Even one 
> side would help a lot. There are numerous ways of doing it. I was about to 
> implement one of those ideas, but I found that I never have problems with 
> battens catching so there was no point in complicating what was working fine 
> already.
> 
> I have a Boomkicker, so there is no issue of supporting the boom with the 
> jacks (though when I installed them initially, I had a topping lift).
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Marek
> 
> 1994 C270 "Legato"
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 22:28
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Steve Thomas >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Lazy Jack advice
> 
> Lazy jacks can supplement or replace the function of the topping lift, and if 
> you have any inclination to use them in that fashion then Dave's comment 
> requires careful consideration. The main sheet can put on quite a load. 
> 
> As for the total number of lines to the boom, remember that the purpose is to 
> stop the sail from falling to the deck. All else being equal, more is better, 
> but the number of lines included in kits for a given boom length from the 
> major manufacturers is a good place to start. I have a Harken 2 line kit on 
> my 27, and find it adequate, but I also have full battens in the main sail 
> which helps a lot. 
> 
> On the subject of battens, separate from questions surrounding lazy jacks, 
> properly adjusted full battens can maintain a good aerofoil shape in 
> extremely light air. It is a wonder how the boat will  ghost along sometimes. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
>  David Kaseler via CnC-List  > wrote: 
> I'm no expert as I have no lazy jacks and have never used them but my concern 
> would be the potential of putting extra stress on the spreaders causing them 
> to become misaligned. 
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY, 1975 C 33
> 
> Sent from my iPad

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Stus-List Lazy Jack advice

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Based on an earlier list-serve discussion about lazy jacks, I am re-doing mine 
so that they run from halfway out the spreaders rather than from the mast.  
That should make it easier to keep the battens from fouling on the lazy jacks.  
So a couple of questions: Is there any reason to use 4 lines rather than just 
3?  The spacing between the 3 is sufficiently big that flaking the mainsail can 
be a problem, especially at the aft end.  Would 4 lines help that? Second: what 
are thoughts  about spacing between the lines (either 3 or 4) along the boom? 
Should they be equally spaced or closer together at some points and farther at 
others?  Advice appreciated!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List C 35mkII Windlass

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Hi Greg,
  Just read your C list-serve entry about a bow roller for your 35 mkII.  I 
am also very interested in adding one to Cat’s Paw. I am curious where you are 
having the roller made.  Is it Holland Marine? Another lister had one made 
there, and HM built me a great stern ladder a couple of years ago.  If not 
Holland Marine, do you have a manufacturer you would recommend?
  Thanks for your advice,
Eric
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 21:12:16 -0500
> From: "Greg Swetka" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List C 35mkII Windlass
> Message-ID: <001401d281b0$c59e0360$50da0a20$@att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I am having a new stemhead fitting with bow roller fabricated this winter
> for Piper. My next step, is looking into a windlass for Piper, as the new
> anchor that I purchased is a 35lb Lewmar Delta and I'm not as young as I
> used to be. I really like the looks of the low profile Lewmar windlasses but
> am not sure if they will work with my mostly rope (with 10' of chain at the
> end). Do any listers have experience with installing windlasses on one of
> these older 35's? Btw, Piper does not have a deck hatch for the anchor rode,
> the rode just enter the bow anchor rode locker through a dorade vent at the
> aft end of the locker.
> 
> Greg Swetka
> 583 Barrington
> Grosse Pointe Park, MI 48230
> S.V. Piper C 35mkII


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Stus-List restoring old snatch blocks

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I have a couple of old snatch blocks in which the rubber is so stiff it is hard 
to open or close them. Does anyone have suggestions for softening the rubber a 
bit so they are more useful? 

Eric
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List Odd barnacle growth

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Cat’s Paw was hauled out 3 days ago and there are clusters of barnacles in 
several places, although most of the hull is virtually clear of growth. One 
cluster is on the thru hull ports for the depth sounder and speedometer (which 
was replaced during the summer with the plug when it stopped working). Is this 
caused by a barnacle-friendly surface of these units? Can the  surface be 
painted with antifouling paint to avoid this? The other picture is growth 
around the inlet and outlet of the washbasin in the head, but in that case not 
just where the holes are but in the vicinity. Any thoughts about what causes 
this and how to avoid it? Here’s the link:  
 https://www.dropbox.com/sh/44pjga1qixliadz/AACVsjFhGwprwuDydjV-yF5Xa?dl=0

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List A4 Slips Out of Gear

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks for the useful responses to my inquiry about fluid for Hurth 
transmissions. The little plaque that Marek mentioned and included a picture of 
must have fallen off. I’ll stick with ATF Type A.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
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Re: Stus-List A4 Slips Out of Gear

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Not directly related to A4’s, but about transmissions.  My Perkins diesel has a 
Hurth (HBW-50 -2R) transmission, and the PO recommended using type A automatic 
transmission fluid.  That’s what I have been using, but this discussion has 
listed motorcycle oil for the transmissions in A4’s.  Am I using the proper 
fluid? - everything seems to be running fine.
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List LED masthead lights and steaming/deck light

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Joel, 
  I also have been very pleased with the new lights I got from MarineBeam. Look 
for "LED Tri-Color Navigation and All-Around Anchor Light”.  I used the old 
wiring in the mast, unlike Fred, so that circuit was fortunately already 
fused(!).
Eric
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II

> Joel ? I replaced all my mast lighting this past winter with products from 
> MarineBeam:
> 
> http://marinebeam.com/led-tri-color-navigation-and-all-around-anchor-light/ 
> 
> 
> http://marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/ 
> 
> 
> I?m very pleased with the quality of the gear, and the installation went 
> well.  I pulled new 16AWG wire for everything to the bottom of the mast, then 
> pulled a new common 12AWG ground from there to the panel, along with 16AWG 
> runs for the hots.  The new lights are far brighter than the old ones, and 
> seem like they?ll do well in the weather.
> 
> At the same time, I pulled new VHF and cell repeater antenna runs, and 
> installed new antennas at the masthead; and I also installed an LED Windex 
> light wired with my compass light switch.
> 
> ? Fred
>> On Aug 9, 2016, at 8:21 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> It will be too hot in Annapolis for me this weekend, so I want to start on 
>> my boat show shopping list.  I want to replace my anchor light with an LED 
>> anchor/Tri combo and replace the steaming light with a steaming/deck light.
>> 
>> Any favorites?  Any dogs to avoid?
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 


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Re: Stus-List Dull red hull

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Frank,
  The hull of my CC 35 II is also is painted a deep red and I have used 
PoliGlow for the last 5-6 years with good results.  There has been extensive 
discussion of PoliGlow on this list which you can access, and very mixed 
reviews.  My experience is that preparation is critical before applying the 
PoliGlow.  As the directions make clear, all oxidation should be removed before 
applying it, and that is hard work.  It took me several hours to do it this 
spring.  I tried several different preparations suggested on this list but had 
best results with PoliPrep Concentrate. There is also PoliOx, which may be more 
effective than PoliPrep in getting rid of the oxidation.  Once the oxidation is 
removed, it takes about 6 coats of the PoliGlow to give a good finish, but 
these go on very quickly - one coat is dry by the time you go once around the 
boat, so you just keep going around until its done.  These products are all 
available from http://poliglow-int.com/shop/  and I think Amazon (slightly more 
expensive).  The results for me have been that the deep red color now shines, 
and it lasts throughout the season.
  Do read the many comments about this on this list, though.  Many of them are 
critical!
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Franklin Schenk >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> >
> Subject: Stus-List Dull red hull
> 
> ? My friend has a C with a red hull.? I would like to?polish it 
> with?something?to bring back the original color.? Many years ago I could buy 
> a?car polish that would do the job.? I assume that there are new products 
> available today.??Any suggestions?
> Frank?
> 


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Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Bill,  I replaced the old fluorescent fixture over the settee and table with a 
Marinebeam LED, single bulb replacement.  Economy 15" T5 LED Fluorescent-Style 
Fixture 

It has current protection and a choice of wavelengths.  As you say, there is no 
space within the fixture for wire termination, made doubly difficult on the 35 
MkII because the wires for the port cabin lights continue forward past the 
light for lighting the rest of the port side.  So 2 + and 2 - wires to deal 
with.  I ended up cutting out a few inches of the liner where the old light was 
and made my connections inside that space, between the cabin roof and the 
liner.  That opening is narrow so the new light completely covers the hole, and 
then I just filled the old screw holes with the putty recommended a few months 
ago on this list.  The light is great and draws about 1/4 the power of the old 
one.  Works fine and is fairly cheap.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: "Bill Coleman" >
> To: >
> Subject: Stus-List Salon Lighting
> 
> Most of the older C's had double rectangular  fluorescent lights in the
> main cabin, which are nowadays woefully inadequate. I eventually gave up
> finding a replacement that would cover all the holes and I purchased 4 Aqua
> Signal  lights,
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312540|2312542 
> 
>  
> 97> =1607497
> But unfortunately there is no space behind the light for wire termination.
> What have others used for replacement  overhead lighting in the cabin?
> Bill Coleman
> 

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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

After looking at the rudder post coming up through the cockpit floor today, 
I think I confused the donut with what is broken on Cat’s Paw.  It appears that
what is broken is below the donut that is being discussed.  It’s right down on 
the cockpit floor.  What is it and what should I do about it? Looks like the 
infamous donut would have to be removed to replace it. Picture is at

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y4gfowalb1qyd8j/RudderPostCollar.JPG?dl=0

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> I?ve been watching this saga with some interest.  Last spring I noticed
> that the ?donut? on my 35 MkII was cracked in several places, but was told
> on this list that the rudder would not fall off so it wasn?t critical to
> replace it right away.  The donut on Cat?s Paw will be easy to remove
> because it is broken in several places.  Can I get a replacement for it and
> then just screw it on?  How are others dealing with this?


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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I’ve been watching this saga with some interest.  Last spring I noticed that 
the “donut” on my 35 MkII was cracked in several places, but was told on this 
list that the rudder would not fall off so it wasn’t critical to replace it 
right away.  The donut on Cat’s Paw will be easy to remove because it is broken 
in several places.  Can I get a replacement for it and then just screw it on?  
How are others dealing with this?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Defender sale - LED nav lights

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Allen, If you mean that combination masthead light (steaming and anchoring) 
that Aqua Signals provides, I just replaced the bulbs in mine with LEDs from 
MarineBeam LED Lighting.  They work perfectly.  The tricolor steaming light 
actually has a three color bulb, which makes all 3 colors very bright.  I did 
replace the old lens, though, which was crazed after years of weathering at the 
top of the mast.  Defender sells the replacement.  Only 0.1 boat buck!

Here was my order, but check their website to make sure they fit your 
AquaSignal light.  Mine is series 40, I think.

BAY15d Replacement LED Bulb for Aqua Signal Series 40, 50 & 55
(Output Color: Cool White (for clear lenses)) 
TW-1157-60-CW   1   $27.00 USD  $27.00 USD

Tri-Color Navigation Lamp Replacement LED Bulb 
(Choose Hella or Aqua Signal Type: Aqua-Signal) 
TW-1157-AS  1   $40.00 USD  $40.00 USD

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Question about LED replacement bulbs for nav lights.  Is there a conversion 
> chart for our Aqua Signal lights.  My steaming and anchoring lights are out 
> and I want to convert if I have to climb the mast.  Might as well do the deck 
> accessible ones at the same time.
> 
> Allen Miles


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Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I noticed that the grounding wires in the bilge have been cut (since I 
inherited Cat’s Paw in 2005!) so they are not connected to the keel bolts.  I 
can splice wires onto the cut ends to reach the bolts, but what is recommended 
as terminals to connect the wires to the bolts?  It would be helpful if this 
did not involve unscrewing the big nuts on the bolts, but perhaps some 
terminals that connect to the top of the bolts?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List filling old screw holes in the cabin ceiling liner

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

In replacing some of the old lighting fixtures in Cat’s Paw, I’ve left small 
holes where screws have been removed.  What is recommended to fill these holes 
so they blend in, at least somewhat, with the cream-colored ceiling liner?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Yes.  The mast is out for the winter on my 35 MkII, and there is one keel bolt 
there on the aluminum plate where the mast sits.

Eric
Cat’s Paw

> This is a good question! 
> Anybody out there know the answer? 
> If I can I will be there, it?s always work schedule dependent.
> 
> Thanks for the info Lee! 
> 
> Bill

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Re: Stus-List CPN 700i - transducers

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Steve,

I have a Raymarine Seatalk - NMEA converter, about 3 years old but never 
installed.  As Fred says, it’s only 4800 baud, and only does the “normal” NMEA 
sentences, but it does work in both directions.  You can have it for $100 US 
plus shipping if that would be useful. Contact me off-list if you are 
interested.  efran...@mac.com

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> That Raymarine converter is pretty limited in the data it can convert; and it 
> will only do 4800 baud, so if Steve ever wanted to add AIS, he?s need to 
> throw that away and start over.  And if there?s a reasonably-priced way to 
> get to NMEA2000 (which I?ve suggested to Steve already), I?d definitely go 
> that route, as NMEA0183 is kind of the stone knife of marine data?   :^)
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Feb 24, 2016, at 10:03 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> There are SeaTalk >NMEA converters available.
>> Also the CPN700i can certainly provide steering data for an autopilot. What 
>> is can?t do is directly control it the way Raytheon displays can all have 
>> autopilot menus on them.
>> Joe
>> Coquina
>> Ps ? something like this?
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYMARINE-E85001-with-cables-PC-SeaTalk-NMEA-Interface-Box-/281939350144?hash=item41a4e51280:g:HvIAAOSwe7BWxhMd=mtr
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> >  
>> >




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Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Bob,

I have two CP150’s, a slightly earlier version than your 155, and can confirm 
that they do accept all the standard NEMA 0183 codes used for navigation.  Mine 
do require an external antenna to use its internal GPS, but it sounds like you 
are already doing that. But they certainly don’t use that for external input.  
I use mine as a display of COG and SOG that it is getting from the chartplotter 
at the helm.  You do need to match the baud rates, of course.  Also, note that 
the 150 (and I assume 155) do NOT have differential inputs.  Instead, what is 
usually the - NMEA input is called “ground”, pin 3, and the wire is green.  The 
input wire for port 1, pin 4, is blue.

You may have missed that you have to put the CP150 into SLAVE mode to disable 
its own GPS unit and use it as a monitor. Here is the page in the manual that 
explains how to do that:
SLAVE
Press the “MENU” + ADVANCE SETUP + “ENTER” + INPUT OUTPUT + “ENTER” + INTERNAL 
GPS SETUP + “ENTER” + OPERATING MODE + “ENTER”+ SLAVE + “ENTER” 

If you don’t have the manual, I can send you a pdf copy.

Eric
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> On Feb 21, 2016, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: "bobmor99 ." >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer
> Message-ID:
>    >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Joel,
> 
> It's unclear, from the manual, whether the GPS info must come into the
> Standard Horizon (SH) CP155C chartplotter via the connection to an external
> GPS antenna (the typical setup) or whether it could alternatively come in
> via the NMEA 0183 inbound wire in the Power and NMEA cable (which I do
> have). I tried sending a NMEA GPS data stream into the the plotter via the
> latter path, trying output from a handheld Garmin GPS and from a PC's
> serial (DB9) port but neither stream was seen by the Chartplotter. (I
> verified baud rates and all that.)
> It's looking like the inbound (to the plotter) NMEA wire in the Power and
> NMEA cable is just for DSC and DSE messages.
> It seemed like a doable hack, but now I don't think that's the case.
> Seeing as I don't have the plug at the end of the "Smart GPS Cable", I'm
> going to bail out on this one.
> Cheers,
> Bob M
> P.S. Perhaps too much information, but I would have used the NMEA 0183 GPS
> output from my new SH VX2200 radio as the GPS source if the SH CP155C were
> able to ingest it via the Power and NMEA cable.
> 
> 
> On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
>> Does the 155 require an external antenna?
>> Joel
>> 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List NAVPOD

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Peter,

I have a piece of neoprene material, adhesive on both sides, left over from an 
installation of a chartplotter in a Navpod.  It looks just like the material of 
the Navpod gaskets. White paper on both sides you peel off to expose the 
adhesive.  If you are still looking for a material for your gaskets, I would be 
happy to send you the piece, which you can use to cut out the gaskets you need. 
 The piece is big enough for that, but easy to mail.  If you can use it, just 
let me know your email address (so we can correspond off-list) and a mailing 
address.

Eric  Frank
efran...@mac.com
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 2:39 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Peter Fell
> Subject: Stus-List NAVPOD
> 
> Here?s a bit of a long shot:
> 
> I have an unused Navpod GP131 3-instrument (Raymarine ST60) pedestal guard 
> enclosure. However, I?m missing the gaskets that fit between the pod and the 
> pedestal guard, that incorporate the seal for the cable exit (hope that makes 
> sense). The Navpod guys, Ocean Equipment, aren?t much help ? they don?t stock 
> gaskets for this discontinued product and they didn?t respond to the question 
> as to whether or not another model has a compatible gasket (so I?m thinking 
> the answer is no).
> 
> Does anyone out there have a set of gaskets sitting in their parts bin? Or 
> should I just make some up out of neoprene?
> 
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C 27 MkIII



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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Just installing a Garhauer boom vang on Cat’s Paw this winter.  Do you guys 
recommend aluminum pop rivets - in case I ever need to remove it?  In my 
experience, SS screws tapped into the mast or boom hold fine but are a devil to 
get out because of electrolysis.  The pop rivets can just be drilled out.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks to all of you who responded so quickly about my question of what 
fasteners to use to attach my new boom vang to the mast and boom.  Clearly the 
consensus is to use SS screws with TefGel, not pop rivets.  Just what I needed 
to know.  Thanks!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Dave - And just to let you know, the two-side method worked beautifully.  Did 
it yesterday.  Thanks to all who responded (and with a single solution!).

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

Oops - sorry frank, another too hasty reply from work...Agreed with other 
poster, drill from both sides.  As suggested, Good practice to score one side 
first anyway to prevent splintering.

> On Dec 11, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Dave Syer  > wrote:
> 
> Frank  - How about knocking the old sensor out and spending two minutes 
> enlarging the hole with a coarse half-round file? (could use a die grinder if 
> air nearby,  or a bit from one on a cordless drill, or a drum sander ona 
> cordless drill, etc)
> Am I missing something?
> 
> Dave
> 



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Stus-List depth transducer replacement

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

A question about removing a depth transducer to install the new one.  Based on 
earlier input from the list, I have used a 2 inch hole saw from the top. 
Fortunately the diameter of the old transducer is just shy of 2 in and the new 
one requires a 2 in hole. So the body of the old transducer just fits inside 
the hole saw, keeping it lined up with little drag (not cutting much of the 
plastic body of the transducer).  When the inside top of the hole saw reached 
the top of the transducer, I then cut off the top half of the transducer so I 
could proceed drilling down.  Now the hole saw just touches the hull, but the 
inside top of the hole saw hits the top of the transducer, so I will need to 
saw off the next section of the transducer to proceed further.  With my tools, 
not so easy to saw off the transducer just above the hull. Question: what about 
drilling down thru the transducer with a regular drill bit, using the pilot 
hole made by the drill bit in the hole saw, and then, using that hol
 e as a guide, use the hole saw to proceed up from the outside of the hull.  
This would avoid cutting thru more of the transducer (a pain), and the pilot 
hole should guide the hole saw. Sound OK, or better to continue from the top?
Thanks as always for your input.
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Russ,
Delighted to hear that my language apparently puts me in the “young” category.  
I turned 70 this summer - used to build ham radio transmitters with my father 
using vacuum tubes.  I do have an old handheld weather radio that tunes in AM, 
but the input from this list has convinced me to replace the old transducer.

The input on this subject has been very helpful, especially the suggestions for 
how to remove the old transducer.  It sounds much easier than I had imagined.  
And as Fred points out - who knows - I might need to measure water temperature 
when I sail to Bermuda again - not since 1972 when I sailed to the Azores with 
my father on a lovely 43 foot SS yawl, a sister ship to Finisterre.

Cheers,  Eric
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> Yes Fred. Agreed.
> 
> In my address to Eric, I meant him as the "you" 
> and I assumed he is not old enough to know what 
> an AM radio really is, let alone have one sitting on a shelf somewhere. :)
> 
> And as Marek points out it doesn't verify 
> accurate functionality with the Raymarine head, 
> which is the practical part anyway.
> 
> Now, how about the unreliability issue with the 
> temperature sensing element of the Raymarine 
> transducer? Is it a simple RTD and of what value, 
> so I can haywire something in stead of it?
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> B.C. South Coast, where it has dropped 
> below freezing on some nights now!


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Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I am replacing depth, speed and wind instruments on Cat’s Paw with i50 and i60 
Raymarine instruments.  As noted in an ongoing thread, it is difficult to 
remove the old depth transducer, so is it possible to use the old one with the 
new Raymarine display?  The old transducer is for a Signet Scientific MK172 
instrument, which is probably more than 12 years old but still works fine.  In 
the manual, it states that “The transmitter produces six pulses per second at 
an amplitude of 450 volts peak·to·peak with 63 watts of power output per pulse. 
The high power output is obtained by charging a large capacitor to build a 
large current flow without heavy drain from the external power source. The 
frequency is adjustable from 160 to 200 kHz but is set at the factory for 200 
kHz nominal.”  The transducer that came with the Raymarine instruments is an 
Airmar P319, listed on the tag on its cable as 50/200 KHz. That transducer also 
measures temperature, but I would be happy to forgo that if I didn’t have to 
change the transducer.  Is there a way of testing if the old transducer works 
with the new display while the boat is on the hard (for the winter)?  What 
happens if you test a transducer when it is completely out of water?  Would it 
harm the Raymarine instrument to be connected to the old transducer? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

This method came up on the list several years ago, with suggestions for making 
the pins with velcro straps.  I made these as mentioned here several years ago 
(took about 10 minutes per pin) and they continue to work very well.  Easy to 
remove to adjust stay tension or remove the mast, but they do not fall out and 
don’t catch on the jib sheets.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Joel Aronson 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
> Message-ID:
>   

Stus-List best varnish for underwater use

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

A friend is painting their sailboard's wooden rudder and centerboard.  Won't be 
left underwater for long periods of time - perhaps a few days at a time.  What 
are your recommendations for what to use? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Stus-List waterproof iPad covers

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Just got an iPad and want a good waterproof cover.  This was discussed here a 
year or two ago (I didn’t have an iPad then, so didn’t pay attention), but 
rather than search thru the list, could someone mention a good one?  Joel, I 
seem to remember you provided input about this.  Thanks.
Eric Frank
Cat’s Paw CC 35 II
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Re: Stus-List CC30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I also have used a mast mate for the last 5 years, and go up to adjust or fix 
things aloft several times a year, preferably when Cat’s Paw is afloat, not on 
jack stands. But for safety, I wear a climbing harness attached to a spinnaker 
halyard which someone on deck keeps on a winch to take up slack.  All the 
lifting is done by me climbing the ladder, but if I should slip, there is a 
safety.  Also, while at the top, the halyard is tied off so I can rest in the 
climbing harness, making it easier (and safer) to work.  Never had any problems 
with this arrangement.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II

 Subject: Re: Stus-List CC30-1 climb to top of mast?
 I have what is called the mast mate, it's a ladder made of webbing that you 
 pull up the mast track , I climb my mast twice a year to install and remove 
 wind instruments before stepping and dropping the stick . You can usually 
 find an ad for the mast mate I'm the back of most sailing magazines , 
 Sent from Joe Bognar
 

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Re: Stus-List Solar panel regulator

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Edd, 

I have had very good luck (now running on 5-6 years) with the Morningstar 
SunGuard Solar Charge controller, first with a 20 watt and now with a 40-50 
watt solar panel.  They are relatively cheap, available through Amazon (and 
other places), and is very simple to set up and use.  If it is to charge only a 
single battery or bank, one controller works fine.  I use one solar panel to 
charge both the house and the starting battery, and then you need two 
controllers, but both can be connected to the one solar panel.  The least 
expensive controllers don’t use pulse width modulation to control the charge 
rate, and you definitely want to taper the charge as you approach full charge 
and barely charge at all went up to the full voltage (about 14.4V).

It does matter what type of battery you are charging.  The SunGuard does only 
wet cells (standard car-type batteries) whereas the gel-type batteries need a 
somewhat different charging schedule.  Morningstar makes all kinds - so take a 
look at their web page to see the differences.

One strong point of Morningstar is their excellent tech support and on-line 
explanations and diagrams for how to do everything. Recently I had very 
complete helpful tech input from Noah Sindermann there; he responded to my 
emails within a day and figured out the problem and how to fix it (using two 
controllers driven by the same solar panel, you need blocking diodes on their 
inputs).

Eric
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

 Listers,
 
 I?m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running to 
 my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from a few 
 bucks to over $60. 
 
 Edd Schillay

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Stus-List RudderPostCollar

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

In checking out Cat’s Paw today in preparation for launching, I noticed cracks 
in the collar around the rudder post where it comes through the cockpit floor 
(CC 35 Mk II, 1974).  The collar looks like an aluminum casting, probably the 
original one.  First, is this sufficiently serious I should not even launch 
until it is fixed? The rudder is held up by the fitting above that with the two 
large allen screws, so I doubt the rudder will fall out.  And the rudder still 
turns easily. Second, where should I look for a replacement collar? Presumably 
the rudder will need to be dropped, or at least held up so it won’t fall out 
when the upper fitting is removed.  So will the boat need to be hauled to do 
that?  We are sailing in the Figawi race in less than 3 weeks, so I doubt it 
can be fixed before that.  Advice please.

Here is a picture of the cracked collar: 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y4gfowalb1qyd8j/RudderPostCollar.JPG?dl=0

Eric
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List Connection fittings for corrugated bilge pump hose

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

The 1.5 inch ID corrugated hose that runs from the bilge to a manual pump in 
the cockpit seems to be leaking in air just where the corrugated hose connects 
to an adaptor that screws into the hose with the threads of the corrugation and 
then provides a male 1.5 inch end that fits inside the strainer.  Is there a 
sealer that would make the threaded part into the hose less leaky?  I see the 
new corrugated hoses on line have a built-in non-corrugated section every 12 
inches, a much better solution, but then I would have to buy a new 15 ft length 
of the hose.  Probably someone on this list also has dealt with these older 
style connectors.  Any recommendation for making the connection tighter?  I 
just screwed it on until it was tight and it still leaks.  The problem is that 
it takes vigorous pumping from the cockpit to get the entire hose full of water 
before it pumps very well.  Thanks!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Connection fittings for corrugated bilge pump hose

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks to all of you who contributed answers to my question.  It seems quite 
clear from the responses that to fix this properly, the hose should be 
replaced.  Fortunately that can be done after Cat's Paw is back in the water.

As others have noted, this list is great. I just asked this question this 
morning!

Eric


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Re: Stus-List Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Edd,

One company I have dealt with advertises making marine cables to order.  I have 
ordered many times from them but not ready-made cables (I used a hammer crimper 
for the cables for an inverter AC power supply for my Prius 2 years ago. 
Obviously not a marine environment - so far they work fine).  The company has 
an odd name, but the quality of the marine signal and 12 V power cables I 
bought from them was fine.  You could check with them to make sure they use a 
good crimper and lugs.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Ed,
But it takes only a small panel to provide adequate current to keep them topped 
off. You will need your alternator when using the batteries for cruising, of 
course, but sitting on the mooring, even 0.5 - 1 amp is sufficient.  That's all 
I use on Cat's Paw (kept on a mooring); I have a small solar panel on the 
forward hatch.  Even with a small panel, though, I recommend a simple charge 
regulator to stop the charging when the batteries are topped up. 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, CC 35 Mk II

 One thing to keep in mind is wet cells can lose up to 10% of charge per month 
 and gels only lose around 1%. For a boat on a mooring or otherwise off shore 
 power this can be a factor.
 If you go wet cells on a mooring you will want a solar panel to keep them 
 topped off.
 
 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina
 CC 35 MK I


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Stus-List Sanitation hose

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I am replacing the old sanitation hose from the pump out fitting to the hand 
pump (used when we are offshore) and from the pump to the thru hull outlet.  
The Trident Sani Shield seems to be a favorite (1.5 inches ID) but has a bigger 
OD than other hoses.  Does anyone know its OD? - it will be easier if I don't 
have to make the hole it goes through (just plywood) bigger.

Best wishes to all the wonderful people on Stu's list for the holiday season.  
I enjoy working on Cat's Paw on the hard during the winter as well as the 
sailing season, and support from this group makes that much more productive and 
fun.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Mainsail track gate

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Greg,

I got a custom track extension and gate made by Tom Luque, at Mastgate. 
MastGates.com  Tom was very helpful in designing and sending me a system that 
worked for the mast in my CC35 II (original spar, 1974). He will certainly 
work with you to design something specific.  I wanted to extend my track 
(molded right into the mast) below the opening so the slugs would slide all the 
way down to the boom. Basically he fabricated two SS pieces that screwed onto 
each side of the opening.  In the end, I got a friend to machine two pieces of 
aluminum bar and screwed them into the mast instead, but I think the mast gate 
system would have worked if I had pursued it.  I can provide more information 
and pictures if you contact me off-list.

Eric
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Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Rick,

Did you buy access panels that were ready to install?  If so, where?  Sounds 
like a great improvement over the 6 inch access port I currently have there. I 
will be installing a boarding ladder this winter, and that would help a lot.  
Also for adjusting the tension in the steering cables on the quadrant.

Eric Frank


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Re: Stus-List advice on oil filter brands

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks, Josh, Dennis and Dwight for the rapid feedback.  Sounds like there are 
a number of good choices, but lots of input to stay away from Fram.  Think I’ll 
go with the KN. Dwight, your comment about the 20 hrs makes sense to me, and 
the oil actually looks pretty clean.  I like to change the oil every year 
despite the low usage, and once that is drained, changing the filter is both 
easy and cheap.

Eric


 On Nov 9, 2014, at 4:52 AM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Follow the link if you want a PDF of the article for safe keeping.
 
 https://docs.google.com/file/d/1GWN2wLUqfJ8QbUdxd1z8Jo2L24V2RVQIXLxN0ASuiXxe7ydOlpi8QCpiliBaQa2u449_fyFXE2LXfU8U/edit?usp=docslist_api
 
 On Nov 8, 2014 5:51 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 I remember a discussion about which brands of oil filters were better (and 
 worse).  In the days I changed the filter in my car myself, I always used 
 Fram because it was easy to find, but I remember from this list that was not 
 a good make.  Suggestions? This is for a 1980’s Perkins 30 HP diesel, 
 probably less than 20 hours per year.
 
 Eric Frank
 Cat's Paw
 CC 35 Mk II
 Mattapoisett, MA
 
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Stus-List advice on oil filter brands

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I remember a discussion about which brands of oil filters were better (and 
worse).  In the days I changed the filter in my car myself, I always used Fram 
because it was easy to find, but I remember from this list that was not a good 
make.  Suggestions? This is for a 1980’s Perkins 30 HP diesel, probably less 
than 20 hours per year.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the Dripless PYI 
shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop shaft so the bellows 
could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have never done this, and with the 
recent discussion about the set screws holding the rotor in place on the prop 
shaft, I wonder if it is worth it.  Would be interested in what other PYI users 
do.  I did replace the entire unit last winter; at full engine RPM I had 
noticed water spraying out between the rotor and the carbon flange, perhaps 
because the thrust of the prop pushed the shaft forward until the rotor did not 
make good contact with the flange.  When I unclamped the rotor and slid it 
forward to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and there were some small pits 
in the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI recommended replacing the entire 
unit, which I did, and it has worked fine this summer.  But it had worked 
flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat, and looked like it had been
  installed well before that, without doing anything to winterize it - just 
checking to make sure it was not leaking at the beginning of each season.  So 
what's the feeling about following PS's suggestion? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Tom,

I had the same symptoms on Cat’s Paw last fall.  Turned out that the rubber 
bellows was probably quite old and was very stiff.  You might consider a new 
bellows and SS rotor from PYI.  They also sell an additional SS clamp which is 
attached just in front of the rotor and which clamps onto the shaft, like a 
zinc anode on the prop shaft.  So it is a good safety that does not depend on 
the set screws.  A pain to replace the bellows but it completely solved the 
problem.  PYI recommends changing the bellows every few years.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

 2  Dripping dripless bearing
 
 In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West 
 in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a result of the 
 bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run 
 back yesterday.  The bilge  was substantially filled.  I traced the 
 ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water 
 everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require 
 whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I checked and the rotor 
 was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft.  I am getting the 
 documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but 
 as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but 
 replace them to be sure they  bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock 
 tight to lock them in place.

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Re: Stus-List Sound insulation

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

David,
  On Cat’s Paw, I installed special sound insulation to quiet the noise of our 
30 hp Perkins diesel.  Decided to make noise measurements in the cockpit, the 
cabin just forward of the engine, and all the way forward in the V-berth (using 
a cheap dB meter app on the iPhone).  2 inch thick sound foam with a special 
sound-adsorbing backing on the wooden engine housing in the cabin (sides, front 
and top) and on the sides of the cockpit lockers.  Just too hard to get to the 
underside of the cockpit floor.  It made only a small difference in sound level 
- maybe a dB or two (I think 3 dB is a factor of 2).  When talking to a 
professional sound person when we separated a large room with wooden sliding 
doors in our rental apartment downstairs with special sound-absorbing 
materials, professionally installed, I was told that even a small gap in the 
insulation would basically make the whole thing pretty ineffective.  90 percent 
coverage with insulation would let much more than 10 percent of the sound 
through.  That job really worked - they left no crack uncovered and it really 
blocks the sound. So my guess is that unless every exit point surrounding the 
engine were insulated, it would make little difference (and I left the whole 
cockpit floor uninsulated).  Also the engine can transmit sound by vibration 
through the engine mounts - perhaps new ones would help - have not tried that.  
But as it stands, pretty disappointing.

See you at the Newport rendezvous in September - I can show you what I did.

Eric
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
 CnC-List
 Sent: August 28, 2014 6:22 PM
 To: CNC CNC
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation
 
 Well I heard from one about the not-so-great results from installing engine
 sound insulation...anybody  else want to chime in with an opinion about
 whether it is worth it?
 
 David F. Risch
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Re: Stus-List Eye can see a CC

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

A bit late on this one, but just to add another plus (both my cataracts were 
corrected during the last 10 months).  Cat’s Paw was already beautiful (to me) 
before the operation, and the sails were already close enough for me to see 
they were mostly badly trimmed.  But for the first time in years, I can see 
buoys as far away as my wife can (she has excellent vision).  This has really 
made a qualitative difference in my pleasure while sailing.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

 On Aug 2, 2014, at 9:49 AM, Stu stumurra...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Late last year, I was diagnosed as having severe cataracts in both eyes and 
 they were 'ripe' for surgery.
 
 After months' of waiting, I have had the cataracts removed from both eyes and 
 new lens inserted.? Approximately 30 minutes per surgery and a wait of 
 several weeks between each.
 
 Multiple visits to the doctor for follow-ups and gallons of drops in each eye 
 -- I think my brain is getting water logged.
 
 But the good thing about it all -- after close to 60 years of wearing 
 glasses, I now have better than 20/25 vision in both eyes.? Still need 
 glasses for reading and won't get them prescribed for another 4-6 weeks.? At 
 the same time, I should have the prescribed glasses restriction removed from 
 my driver's license.
 
 I can't believe how beautiful everything looks and the amount of detail that 
 I have missed.
 
 If you have cataracts, get them looked after as soon as possible -- you will 
 be surprised at how beautiful your CC really looks.
 ?
 Stu

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Re: Stus-List binnacle light

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Joel,

My binnacle light is also wired to the Running Lights (not the ones on the 
mast) switch on the panel, just as Jake has described. But in addition, 
corrosion on the wires right in the binnacle itself had to be cleaned to get 
the lights (2 bulbs) to work.

Eric
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

 Joel,
 If I recall, you have two push-pull switches next to your engine panel.  I 
 only have one and that is for the binnacle light (which hopefully still 
 works).  It is conceivable that the binnacle might be wired into your nav 
 lights too.  They are all needed at the same time?
 Jake
 

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Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

   My new E7 Raymarine chartplotter reboots when I start the engine (a Perkins 
diesel).  Cat's Paw's batteries are quite new, fully charged, and hold their 
charge well.  But obviously the voltage drops when cranking the engine.  None 
of my other electronics is affected this way, including an old CP 150 Standard 
Horizon and a 2007 CP300 chartplotter.  Apparently the E7 demands a higher 
voltage to keep from crashing.
Best way to deal with this?  Others must have a similar problem.  I could 
put a small rechargable battery just before the panel switch to the E7 with a 
diode to the main battery, so it is kept charged but maintains enough voltage 
to the E7 when the main voltage drops.  But I bet there is a better solution. 
Suggestions welcome!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

From the overall hull shape and way the hull comes out of the water well 
before the stern, the best match of all the responses was from Dwight, who 
thought it might be a Bluenose sloop, first built in 1946.  Also note the way 
the mast is stayed, with upper shrouds pushed forward (they must have a 
correct name, but I don't know it). The later ones were fiberglass (built by 
McVay - wouldn't you know, another Canadian classic design!) and most seem to 
have little or no cabin, but some pictures do have small cabins, so perhaps 
that was done to the boat I saw.  Here is a website describing them if you 
care to match specs with the photos I posted:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=trct=jq=esrc=ssource=webcd=9ved=0CEQQFjAIurl=http%3A%2F%2Fsailboatdata.com%2Fviewrecord.asp%3Fclass_id%3D40ei=m6eMU6vOKIbQsQSq9ICYDgusg=AFQjCNEjklU00OZvZhZ0-mdQ7ry3I7Lcpwbvm=bv.67720277,d.cWc

Or just Google Bluenose sloop.

Here are my two photos (again) for comparison.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Eric

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Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Just saw this lovely little sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 
25 feet long.  Can anyone identify her class?  Two photos are available on my 
dropbox - here are the URLs.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg

Thanks, Eric

Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Rob,  I just did it last weekend while I was changing the shift and throttle 
cables.  I had to remove the brake so I could slide the chain all the way 
forward to get the cables changed.  Re-installing the brake was easy by 
comparison.  As Sylvain and others have mentioned, after removing the compass, 
also remove the next layer of the pedestal to make access easier.  It's very 
easy to put the pieces of the brake in - the wheel and shaft just screw into 
the port brake piece.  I pulled a piece of twine through the eye of the cotter 
pin so that if I dropped the pin while installing it, it would not disappear 
down the pedestal.  Then just pull the twine out when the legs on the pin are 
properly bent.  It all went fairly smoothly.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

 Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 18:56:31 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
 Message-ID:
   1400723791.69954.yahoomail...@web163405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
 
 Yes, I did it 2-3 years ago on my Edson 335 , no specific issues except to 
 make sure the roller bearings and chain links? grease have no chance to 
 contaminate the brake pad lining. I think the big issue was putting the 
 cotter pin . make sure you have 1? ( or better 2 ) layers of rags under the 
 shaft assembly, some parts are pretty small!
 
 Sylvain
 CC27 MkIII
 
 
 
 
 
 From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:17 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
 
 
 Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
 
 When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
 should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
 
 Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
 work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
 challenge.
 
 If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
 compass is removed?? Any and all advice welcomed.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 



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Stus-List Update on jammed transmission lever

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

  Your collective advice was to replace the shift cable (and throttle cable as 
well) so I have proceeded to try to do that but have run into another problem.  
Following the directions on the Edson website, I delved into the pedestal, 
moved the throttle cable to the port side, unscrewed the cable clamp from the 
pedestal housing and then tried to pull the cables up to gain access to the 
clamp.  As the directions suggested, this was difficult to do, as the clamp 
gets jammed against the steering chain.  Cranking the wheel from port to 
starboard helped, as they suggested, but not enough.  So the next advice was to 
loosen the steering cable (what a PITA!) so I could lift the chain over the 
sprocket teeth and forward up to the wheel brake.  That helped also, but still 
not enough.  I think the trouble is that the cable clamp is made for 3 cables, 
not two, so the part without a cable in it still gets jammed under part of the 
pedestal casting, and I cannot get it out.
  How to proceed? Advice needed!  One thought is to unbolt the pedestal from 
the cockpit floor and tip it over so I can pull the cables with the clamp out 
the bottom of the pedestal.  Of course the chain/cables will need to be a lot 
looser than they are now, and I hesitate to disconnect the cables from the 
quadrant completely.  Maybe as they are already loose (from loosening the nuts 
on the eyebolt), I could pop the cable off one of the sheaves that the cable 
runs over, and perhaps that would loosen the cable sufficiently that I could 
tip the pedestal over.  But before I try something like that, it would be great 
if I could get some further input from the list.  Would hate to do something 
that made a big repair necessary.

Thanks!

Eric
CC 35 MkII
Mattapoisett, MA

 Did that - clear result.  The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable 
 won't move.  But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's 
 fine.  That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result.  Opened the 
 pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine from the 
 top view.  So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right down near 
 where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever.  Would moving 
 the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, perhaps 
 squirting with penetrating oil help?  Other suggestions?
 
 Eric
 
 You have the first step:  disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the 
 tx lever moves. 
 
 Rich
 
 On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank efran...@mac.com wrote:
 
 Just replaced the PYI dripless stuffing box on Cat's Paw, a 35 CC Mk II. 
  With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just 
 replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very 
 smoothly and I thought all was well.  But when I fired up the Perkins 
 diesel yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral.  
 I noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured 
 the engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the 
 prop shaft to drive the shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think 
 there was any strain on the transmission.  Would like advice about where to 
 look for the jam. In the shift lever from the pedestal? In the transmission 
 itself? Maybe disconnect the shift cable from the transmission and see if I 
 can then move the shift lever?  Advice from the list soon would be greatly 
 appreciated.  Launch date is slated for this week, but if the prop shaft 
 has to be disconnected from the tranny to fix things, launch needs to be 
 delayed.
 
 Thanks for advice!  Don't know what to try.
 
 Eric

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