I live in Colorado and new to the group. I have a PID'd Gaggia Classic that
I've been using for a couple months and decided I wanted something more. The
IV-R should be here Thursday and I'm real excited.
I've got the plumbing all ready to go with a 3/8 coming from the basement with
a shutoff
the new machine!
bmc
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 18, 2013, at 18:35, brian par...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:
I live in Colorado and new to the group. I have a PID'd Gaggia Classic
that I've been using for a couple months and decided I wanted something
more. The IV-R should be here
Thanks Todd. So, if my incoming pressure is say 25 PSI I will need to
adjust the OPV and pump pressure. First, I set the pump pressure for 11
bar and then set the OPV and set the pump pressure back to 9 PSI, correct?
Brian
On Tuesday, February 19, 2013 7:31:43 PM UTC-7, Todd Salzman wrote
My reading seems to indicate it is considered a solid.
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I set the brew pressure to 8.5 while brewing and the OPV is at 11.5. They were
set to 9 and 11 with a blank disc. Both are the readings on the stock gauges.
I have a portafilter gauge and it is very close to the machine gauges. Is
having the OOV open at 11.5 too high? Should I be resetting
I didn't intend to set it higher. I set both since my incoming pressure is 25
psi rather than 40 which is where the manual said it was set from the factory.
If 11.5 is too high I'd just open it and set it exactly to 11.
Thanks for the reply!
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I ordered a two hole tip when I got my IV-R. It does steam quicker but it
runs the steam boiler out of steam real fast. I'm sticking with the single
hole tip.
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I read through all the threads and they are quite informative. I would need an
adapter that I can't find to use the highly recommended two hole tip since my
IV has female threads on the wand. The adapter I see at Chris Coffee has
male/male 8mm to 10mm. I found a thread here that states the
Well, duh, now that I look closely at that adapter I see it will fit!
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I tried the 2-hole tip which was one that BMC reviewed in his previous
threads. Boy, you really can produce a lot of microfoam with that tip. I
don't feel like I have the control I have with the stock 1-hole tip but I'm
sure that will come with practice.
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I played around a bit with the direction of the two holes but I'll keep
working on that. For me, it's tough to get the right amount of air. The
tip has to be just right or you'll have too much pretty quickly. Then,
trying to roll the milk is different since the steam comes out at angles.
My IV-R
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I moved and my new house does not have a whole house softener like my old
house. The new house has a septic system and well and the water is very
hard so I haven't set up my Brewtus. I want to get another whole house
softener to save the new dishwasher, clothes washer and Brewtus. Has
I ordered a Fleck 5600SXT valve and 1.5 cu ft resin and will just install
that with the help of a plumber.
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I bought an IV-R about a year ago and haven't had any issues. I was
looking at the Rocket but, during my research, heard some complaints. I
don't recall them exactly except that they were mainly from early adopters
who may have run into issues with the gen 1. The complaints I've seen
I forgot to add that I came from a Gaggia Classic with PID and Rancilio
wand. I have a Baratza Vario grinder.
When I got the Brewtus I replaced with wand tip with a smaller volume wand
for better control after reading about it here. It helped me learn how to
make great foam. It took longer
I moved to a new house and came from city water with a softener to well
water with a softener. I know the pressure in the new house is different
so I adjusted the OPV and brew pressure on my plumbed IV-R. I've searched
here and the web plus the manual and can't quite get the answer I'm
For now, I've just adjusted it to 7.5 during pre-infusion which hits 9
after that. It brews coffee at 8.5 setup like this.
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I've got a two year old IV-R and it's dripping a little water around the steam
wand attachments. I assume there are O rings to be replaced but thought I'd ask
here before taking it apart. I assume I could use high pressure thread goop as
well.
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Thanks for the detailed rundown.
I've always been cognizant to barely close the steam knob knowing that over
tightening is bad. It appears to be leaking in front of the nut that holds the
assembly to the case. In other words, on the knives side of that nut is where
I see drops of water
:
Hello brian,
Tuesday, January 27, 2015, 7:56:37 AM, you wrote:
It heated up and worked as normal so I'm not really sure what the deal
is/was.
Note, descaling must have done something. Over the last few months I've
had to grind coarser to get a good pour. After descaling, I'm finding
I have an 18 month old IV-R plumbed into the house. This morning I made
three latte's and then turned off the machine. 20 minutes later I turned
it back on to make another and checked back in 15 minutes and the temp was
136. The steam boiler gauge showed no pressure and I've not seen the red
A little more info. I pulled the cover and checked all the connections.
On the steam boiler there are two red connectors. One has one wire and
the other has two. I wiggled the single wire connector and pushed it down
a hair since it looked a little higher on the connection. I plugged the
It heated up and worked as normal so I'm not really sure what the deal
is/was.
Note, descaling must have done something. Over the last few months I've
had to grind coarser to get a good pour. After descaling, I'm finding I've
got to grind finer and I'm not back to where I was a year ago.
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I had to go buy a socket that large. It's huge!
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I replaced the steam boiler element and thought I'd pass along my
experience as well. I'd read the experiences from others here and here's
what I did. I ordered some Loctite 567 from eBay since I'd read where some
people would have leaks after a couple days when using only tape. I found
the
had my heater elements out a few years ago I removed a bunch of
mineralized growths, especially from the brew boiler. Literally a hand
full. Maybe the descale caused some crust to slough off?
On Tuesday, February 17, 2015 at 6:37:46 AM UTC-8, brian wrote:
A little more information. I've
All right. I adjusted the pressure on the IV-R. I set the OPV to 11 bars
where water just starts dripping into the drip pan at 11. I adjusted the
brew pressure by setting the pressure to 9 bars just before it bumped up to
11 and started dripping. It took a few pulls of the handle to get it
I was following the directions in the manual but obviously not perfectly.
I decided to set the brew pressure while pulling a shot. When the lever
is first pulled up the pressure hits 7.5 When the espresso starts exiting
the portafilter it's at exactly 9 now. The OPV will drip at 11 bars
Once, a week or two ago, when steaming the pump came on and steam pressure
dropped to zero. It ran for a short time and pressure came back and it
worked until today. Since there's no such thing as a coincidence I'm sure
whatever that was is the same thing I ran into this morning. Today, the
Very interested to know as well! I've recently obtained a B IV, and would
like to play with flow profiling. Let me know if you find anything out!
On Sunday, February 2, 2020 at 10:16:28 PM UTC-5, jt123 wrote:
>
> Greetings!
>
> As the title suggests, some of you may be aware of paddle + valve
I know you’re a bot, and this is like screaming in to the void, but I fucking
hate you. Also I fucking hate that google groups has no way to report or block
or anything this kind of bullshit. Groups like this are the best part of the
internet, where small groups of enthusiasts can come and
I saw the Mara yesterday, didn’t know about the review on WLL. I’ve been
waffling with the idea of getting either the biancafy kit from 1st line or
picking up the profitec kit somewhere. I don’t believe WLL is selling the kit
separately any longer so it would need to be sourced elsewhere.
--
think a 1/1.5 duty cycle is good enough for espresso use.
On Friday, September 4, 2020 at 8:42:55 PM UTC-4 Brian wrote:
>
>1. With ulka vibratory pumps the E series is the high pressure series.
>5 is the flow curve, so you should see nearly identical flow with each of
>
1. With ulka vibratory pumps the E series is the high pressure series. 5
is the flow curve, so you should see nearly identical flow with each of
those pumps. This can be seen on the Spec sheet for the E series pumps.
majs...@gmail.com wrote:
> That works with no pressure on the in-line? I've read some solutions with
> bottle water and Flojet or a similar pump but hadn't seen anything on open
> systems
>
> On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 10:51:58 PM UTC-4 Brian wrote:
>
>>
>> if
e safe for the long-term
>
> On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 2:24:09 PM UTC-4 Brian wrote:
>
>>
>> Yes, should work fine with no pressure on the incoming line, you may need
>> to adjust the pressure bypass valve toachieve target group head pressure
>> thoug.Ideally th
It’s fairly common for the vacuum relief valve on the steam boiler to fail,
or get stuck open, especially on older machines. It’s a very cheap part,
and easy to replace.
Take the cover off the machine, turn it on and be careful not to touch any
wires. When it gets hot and starts to vent steam
Hello Rizwan!
So it sounds like the machine is in decent shape, generally speaking parts are
not hard to come by, so no big incentive to pre-order parts. The one exception
is the group head gasket, and id get a silicone one to replace the black rubber
one if it hasn’t already been done. Makes
Bmacpiper has a great write up regarding doing the work and some common
pitfalls in the following thread:
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/brewtus/urDFjRH8-Ac
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Awesome, thanks Jason, thats very good to hear. Out of curiousity what
country are you in and where did you get your kit from?
Also would love to hear your thoughts on its use after you've had it for a
little bit.
On Monday, June 15, 2020 at 10:21:02 AM UTC-4, studiocommercial wrote:
>
> Hi, I
If the steam boiler is venting steam it’s most likely caused by one of 3 things:
1) the pressure relief vent is venting at too low a pressure and needs to be
adjusted or replaced. Causing the vent to open before the pressure in the
boiler reaches the setpoint on the pressure stat so it never
If it is generating pressure, then that eliminates the vacuum relief valve, as
that would never let the machine generate pressure to begin with.
I’d say the next step would be to see at what pressure the steam starts to
leak, and see if you can identify from where. Since the pressure relief
Rizwan,
Please start another thread as the brew boiler and steam boiler pressure
problems arise from very different causes, and trying to keep answers straight
between two different cases in the same post will be unnecessarily confusing.
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Eric,
Don’t tell me that! I was hoping to avoid upgradeitus for a while... congrats!
Enjoy the buzz
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Most likely it’s a burnt out element, or a failed wire/connector. Always
best to confirm what’s happening with a multimeter. If you remove the
connectors to the element and measure the resistance, you should see by my
best guess ~11 ohms if it’s a 120volt machine, and ~5.5 ohms if it’s a 240
ieve I'm measuring the OD at 4MM, though. Does that make
>> sense?[image: PXL_20210111_015701709.jpg]
>>
>> On Sunday, January 10, 2021 at 8:06:29 PM UTC-5 Brian wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry one last thought:
>>>
>>> Looks like the tubing may actually be
According to the exploded parts diagram there are no additional springs
there. If you have other parts disassembled at the same time, is it
possible it came from somewhere else? Otherwise I’d have to agree with Ira,
that it must be from the balancing circuit in the pump head that regulates
It’s that’s a great thought, but best as I know none of the rotary machines
have water tanks, pretty sure they are made to be plumbed only (or fitted
with an external tank).
On Sunday, January 3, 2021 at 2:56:10 AM UTC-5 Ira wrote:
> Hello Mario,
>
>
> Saturday, January 2, 2021, 11:16:59 PM,
I do not have familiarity with that part in my machine, but i do work with
those kinds of fittings all the time for work and I have a few
observations.
1) the part you linked to says its 1/4" tube x 1/8" NPT, but the diagram
lists all of the threaded connections as 1/4" and the tubing as
I was wrong about it not listing the material, it does say it's brass, so
it is almost certainly leaded brass with a nickel coating neither of which
are safe for food.
On Sunday, January 10, 2021 at 7:58:31 PM UTC-5 Brian wrote:
> I do not have familiarity with that part in my machine, bu
.cafeparts.com/Elbow-Coupling-1/8/Product/15795>.
On Sunday, January 10, 2021 at 8:00:19 PM UTC-5 Brian wrote:
> I was wrong about it not listing the material, it does say it's brass, so
> it is almost certainly leaded brass with a nickel coating neither of which
> are safe for food.
rom Amazon. Of course, I don't have a clue if that's
> where the problem is, but we'll see...
> On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 9:37:18 AM UTC-5 billherbst wrote:
>
>> Brian and Ira,
>>
>> I had a long response composed, but let me cut to the chase. I think the
>>
!
On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 11:25:51 AM UTC-4 billherbst wrote:
>
> Brian, thanks so much for your willingness to help, and your patience as
> well.
>
> Here’s some more info that may affect the troubleshooting diagnosis. When
> I remove the level sensor and fill the st
Hey Bill,
Looking at the wiring diagram there’s some good news! This one should be
pretty simple. Do you have access to a multimeter, and do you know how to
use one/feel comfortable that you could safely disconnect the unit from
power?
The pump motor can recieve power from two sources. In
Definitely worth checking that the boiler isn’t over pressure. But a slow
consistent leak is certainly likely to be a failed safety valve. When the
safety valve goes off it tends not to be subtle.
I purchased my brewtus IV a little over a year ago, and experienced the
same issue, I’m the
I use a bottomless portafilter, and it leaves plenty of space for a scale
and my espresso cups. That said I’ve been considering the same thing, I
just don’t love the process of moving the scale in and out. I’ve discovered
two answers and I haven’t decided which to pursue yet.
Option 1) buy an
fit just fine in the
brewtus drip tray, though it is a little right and doesn’t leave a ton of
room on either side to blow out the steam or hot water wand.
On Sunday, April 4, 2021 at 10:58:21 PM UTC-4 Brian wrote:
> I use a bottomless portafilter, and it leaves plenty of space for a sc
than at the boiler. So at a setpoint of 200, the water in the brew
boiler should actually be about 210-218. Just something to remember as you
go about troubleshoting.
Best of luck,
-Brian
On Sunday, September 5, 2021 at 9:45:23 PM UTC-4 billherbst wrote:
>
> UPDATE: It's now been a full day
Hey Mike,
The reason the steam boiler is effecting the ability of the brew boiler to
heat is because power to the brew boiler is routed through the
pressurestat. The pressurestat has 3 prongs, one is the common where the
power is fed in. One is normally closed which feeds power to the steam
FYI, cafe parts seems to have the gasket #7. That said based on the
description of the problem the brass parts could be worn. Generally when
the gasket goes they leak, not fail to properly depressurize.
https://www.cafeparts.com/Valve-Gasket-Ø-13x4x4-mm/Product/9670
On Wednesday, August 4,
the SSR and base of the
machine. Without it the SSR will fail prematurely, as it will generate
enough heat to cook itself.
Best of luck!
Brian
On Saturday, April 2, 2022 at 7:26:56 PM UTC-4 Andre wrote:
> Hi group, I am in the process of PID kit installation into my Brewtus 2.
> You need to
What is a John Allen adapter?
On Sunday, October 23, 2022 at 1:05:05 PM UTC-6 WestfaliaBoy wrote:
> I do. Used a John Allen adaptor to bring it down, as I run the machine off
> a reverse osmosis filter
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Oct 23, 2022, at 07:42, brian wrote:
Thank you Herman!
Love this machine. My email is:
3ba...@gmail.com
Cheers,
Brian
On 13/09/2012, herman dickens badhabit...@yahoo.com wrote:
give me an email address and i'll send it
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 1:04 PM, rutnip 3ba...@gmail.com wrote:
Hey Everybody,
I think that there used
My three month old Brewtus IV-R will drop the brew temp a couple degrees if I
pull water for an Americano. I figured that was normal.
On Jun 16, 2013, at 12:37 PM, Ira laza...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello winnipegger65,
Sunday, June 16, 2013, 10:39:58 AM, you wrote:
What you say makes
You are so right. I should probably confess that my budget was an
important consideration. I bet what I did took twenty times longer than
your rig. The shot cam will have to wait, too!
Brian
On 5 April 2014 23:44, Benjamin McCafferty bmacpi...@me.com wrote:
Brian, I have to admit that I
My setup is just like Ira's and do exactly as he does. However, I only do a
detergent clean every 4 months or so. I haven't descaled in 20 months or so.
I've got a whole house softener but I figure I should do it soon anyway. I've
never pulled the shower screen or gasket even though I have
Awesome. I'll give that one a shot. Thanks for the help!
On Monday, October 26, 2015 at 9:48:32 AM UTC-4, herman dickens wrote:
>
> I'm using the same one Ben is and it works great. It's a lot better than
> the one that comes with it.
> Herman
>
> On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 9:4
I used Loctite paste, 442, I think. I'd have to double check. I tried Teflon
tape and they both leak rather quickly.
On Jul 10, 2015, at 1:59 PM, Ben McCafferty bmacpi...@me.com wrote:
I have the machine completely disassembled and in the process of cleaning it.
Even the group is torn
Defrost mode?
> On Jul 16, 2016, at 9:36 PM, jpaul wrote:
>
> Silly me, this is the second time I've inadvertently put the PID into defrost
> mode. Figured it out about 4 hours after I did it.
>
>> On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 9:06:09 AM UTC-7, jpaul wrote:
>> I have a
the
impact wrench.
Brian
> On Sep 13, 2016, at 9:54 AM, Ben McCafferty <bmacpi...@me.com> wrote:
>
> +1 on Herman's comment. The element does not use a flare or compression
> fitting, and the factory sealed with a liquid dope that sets up quickly.
> Tightening is going to make
Should I bother reducing the pressure?
Brian
> On Mar 2, 2017, at 11:48 AM, herman dickens <hermandick...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'd keep an eye on it but it's probably nothing to worry about.
>
>> On Thu, Mar 2, 2017 at 12:52 PM, brian <pars...@gmail.com>
tor it and if it starts to act up again I'll replace
> the valve.
>
> Thanks again for taking the mystery out of this problem for me and providing
> the solution.
>
> Peter
>
>> On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 7:28:43 PM UTC-7 Brian wrote:
>> It’s fai
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