Re: [Elecraft] KXUSB pinout

2020-03-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
The cable shown in the XG3 manual can be ordered from Elecraft as the 
KXSER cable.  Or it is easy to build your own if you have the proper 
connectors.  The KXUSB has the same pinout at the KX2/KX3/XG3 end, but 
plugs into a USB port instead of a serial port.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/17/2020 9:54 PM, M. George wrote:

Is the same cable as you would use with the Elecraft XG3, take a look at
the end of the XG3 manual:
https://ftp.elecraft.com/XG3/Manuals%20Downloads/E740154%20XG3%20Owner%27s%20Manual.pdf

The tip(1) is TX and the Ring(2) is RX... and well you guessed it... the
Sleeve(3) is Ground. So on a DB9 (D-Sub) connector, pin 3 goes to the Tip,
Pin 2 goes to the Ring and Pin 5 to the Sleeve.


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Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic: Your advice/suggestion about antenna

2020-03-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
If I recall correctly, the original question in this thread was about 
the effectiveness of radials over rocky ground.  We have gone far astray 
from that consideration.  I am trying to bring it back to 'ground zero'.


As I recall, the question was about a vertical whose feedpoint was above 
the ground - rocky or not.


Let me add some conceptual thoughts.

Does anyone remember the Ground Plane vertical that was popular back in 
the 1960s and 1970s (and is still commonly used on VHF today)?  A 1/4 
wavelength vertical radiator with usually 4 1/4 wavelength radials from 
the base.  It was often mounted on a roof, and the radials sloped 
downward along the roof providing a feedpoint impedance near 50 ohms as 
opposed to 35 ohms if the radials are perpendicular to the vertical member.


That antenna has a nice low angle of radiation, which is good for far 
away stations.  A dipole has a higher angle of radiation, and will 
outperform the vertical at near-in distances.  A high dipole (at least 1 
wavelength high) will also have equal low angle radiation to the vertical.


To work effectively, the radials must be arranged symmetrically, so each 
pair will cancel the horizontally polarized radiation.  Actually only 2 
radials are required for that, but they must be arranged 180 degrees 
from each other.  For best performance, the radials should be tuned to 
the center frequency of interest - just like tuning a dipole.


This is what is known today as a vertical with raised (or elevated) 
radials.  It is ground independent in contrast to a typical vertical 
with buried radials which is quite dependent on ground conductivity.


In comparing a vertical with a dipole, remember that a good vertical has 
its best radiation at a low takeoff angle, while a dipole will have its 
best radiation at a much higher angle.  Listening tests will make the 
dipole have much better performance when there are a lot of stations in 
the 400 to 800 mile radius of the station, while the vertical will 
'reach out further' while suppressing the strength of the nearby signals.


So all this talk about how many dBi is nonsensical unless a specific 
angle of radiation is being stated as well.  A good vertical has better 
low angle radiation than a dipole, and rejects high angle signals.  A 
dipole that is low in terms of wavelength has a high angle component of 
radiation.


That means to me that a dipole mounted at a modest height for 160, 80, 
and 40 will provide local as well as moderately distant contacts easily. 
 A proper vertical will provide more DX contacts, and weaken the 
receive signals for more close-in stations - it is all in the angle of 
radiation - how many miles does the signal travel before it is reflected 
by the ionosphere?  It is all a matter of physics and geometry.


73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] Possible K3 Line Input Damage

2020-03-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

This sound to me like you have to make a trip to the remote site to see 
what is going on.  A soundcard failure may have applied DC voltage to 
the K3 and damaged it (but I have never heard of that happening).
You may have a soundcard failure of some sort and no audio is getting to 
the K3 - so go to the site with another soundcard in hand to use if 
necessary.


When testing with the new soundcard, if the Line In does not work, lower 
the computer output of the soundcard and try Mic In (change the MIC SEL 
menu).  If that gets audio to the K3 while Line In does not, then 
contact supp...@elecraft.com to see where you should go from that point.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/9/2020 7:50 PM, Michael Tope wrote:
Recently I've made some configuration changes at my remote station that 
should in the end improve things. In the short term, however, it has 
caused problems when working voice. Specifically I was getting feedback 
if I raised the line out level on the PC too far past a certain 
threshold which seem to depend on the K3 compressor settings (in case 
you are wondering, yes, the K3 monitor level was set to 0). Despite 
these problems, I was able to make some 40 meter SSB contacts Sunday 
morning during the ARRL DX Phone contest.


On Sunday afternoon, I connected to the remote with about ten minutes to 
go in the contest and heard PY0F calling CQ on 20 meters with a very 
loud signal. Not having touched the settings from the night before, I 
figured I would tweak the tuning on the KAT-500 and then just call him. 
Things did not go well. The rig broke into audio feedback and I lost 
transmit/receive control for what seemed like a forever, but was 
probably in reality only about 15 seconds.


After I regained control of the rig, I power cycled the rig and then 
power cycled the computer (I can do that remotely). The K3 still works 
fine on CW, but I can no longer operate SSB. TeamViewer indicates I am 
getting audio to the remote site, but the radio no longer responds. I've 
tried both VOX and manually switching to transmit. Either way, I get 
nothing. I even tried playing a local audio source on the computer at 
the remote site which should have gone straight into the K3. I still got 
nothing.


IS IT POSSIBLE TO DAMAGE THE LINE INPUT OF THE K3 IF IT IS OVERDRIVEN BY 
A SOUNDCARD LINE OUTPUT OR DOES THE K3 SOMEHOW SELF-PROTECT? IF THE 
FORMER, WHAT PART IN THE K3 SERVES AS THE "FUSE"?


I know it is premature to assume the K3 is damaged as I haven't 
physically been to the remote site test the rig since the incident, but 
I wanted to understand what the worst-case scenarios might look like.



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Re: [Elecraft] 20 KHz wide signal in K3 on CW

2020-03-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ignacy,

It sounds to me like you (and the gentleman with the 20kHz wide signal) 
have a problem with your K3 - that is not normal.  I suggest you contact 
supp...@elecraft.com.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/11/2020 11:09 AM, Ignacy wrote:

A while ago, one station in a contest had a 20 KHz wide signal. I send him
email and he replied that he had K3.

Yesterday I was calling D2EB on 3521 and got lots of angry reports about my
signal jamming everything around.  One station sent a panadapter screen.
There are spurs about every 700 Hz. The first one is -15db from the main
signal, the second -25db, and 3 KHz away it is -35 db.

I checked the radio later with a SDR. It had spurs but not as big. I checked
the radio today, and the spurs seem almost gone.

My K3 is #2283.

Ignacy, NO9E
  




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Re: [Elecraft] KXFL3 Adjustments

2020-03-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

I assume you are using the internal oscillator.  Do you have a 2 turn 
loop on that 'piece of small coax'?  If not, you will not have a 
sufficiently strong signal.


Set the menu values back to the defaults and try again.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2020 10:49 PM, Mike Short wrote:

I am doing the alignment following the install, and I do not hear any
difference regardless of phase/gain, or preamp setting. There is also
no difference in S meter display either. I am using a piece of small
coax as the pickup antenna. Any suggestions?


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Re: [Elecraft] FS: KPAKAUX cable set

2020-03-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
The AUX Cable uses the ACC connector, not the serial port or the USB 
port.  Are you certain you are  offering the AUX cable that fits into 
the 15 pin connectors?  So it can be used with the older K3 with the 
RS232 port or the newer KIO3B with the USB connector.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/6/2020 4:51 PM, Mike Maloney wrote:

New unused AUX Cable set Optional KPA500 or KPA1500 to K3S/K3.  Wont play with 
my older K3 version with serial port.   Asking $30 shipped CONUS only.
Mike AC5P

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Re: [Elecraft] Extra Protection For KPA500?

2020-03-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tony,

Look at the CONFIG Menu description in the manual.
Turn CONFIG:PWR SET to Per Band and then with the AMP on, go to each 
band and set the proper power to drive the amp on that band.


With the AMP off, you should have full range of the Power control.
Yes, you need the AUX cable so the K3 knows the state of the amplifier.
If you have the KAT500 as well, you will need 2 AUX cables.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/6/2020 2:07 PM, Tony wrote:


Tony, The Config Menu has a Per-Band power setting (PWR SET = PEr 
bAnd) that will set the power output depending on the band selected. 
If you use the Aux cable between the K3 and KPA500 is is fully 
automatic and seamless. 73 George AI4VZ 


George:

I must be missing something because when I select PER BAND in the config 
menu, there's no power setting to set.


It doesn't display the power like TUN PWR does where the tune power is 
shown within that menu item so you can adjust it.


I have to order the AUX cable, but in the meantime I'd like to use this 
setting with the K3S so any suggestions would be appreciated.


Tony


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Re: [Elecraft] Extra Protection For KPA500?

2020-03-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Rick,

When you move into the new shack location, consider getting the new AUX 
cables from Elecraft.  If your original ones have a large (about 1/4 
inch diameter) cable, the new ones are smaller and more flexible.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/5/2020 5:57 PM, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:

Don et al,

On occasion the signal that the amp goes into Operate mode is not passed 
along (or received, I don't know which), which means that the K3 will 
operate at higher than required drive level, for a moment only because 
the KPA500 will fault VERY quickly protecting everything.


However, I am unable to come up with a viable pair of suspenders, so I 
simply try to be more aware when the amp goes hot.


The reverse can be true too; the K3 thinks the amp is still in operate 
(but it isn't) and transmits at lower than expected output.



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Re: [Elecraft] Extra Protection For KPA500?

2020-03-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Curiosity is getting the best of me --
If the built-in protection works well, why do you need more protection?
If the belt works OK, then why add suspenders as well?

If you are operating a K3 or K3S, there is a per band power level that 
can be used.  It will automatically use the settings for the amplifier 
when the KPA500 is set to operate.  That can be considered your 2nd 
level of protection and it guards against "fumble fingers"


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/5/2020 2:35 PM, Tony wrote:

All:

I'd like to avoid the inevitable situation where one mistakenly 
transmits too much power into an amplifier. I have a KPA500 and the 
protection circuit works well, but I was wondering what can be done to 
add an extra layer of protection?


Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] Unusual Behavior K3S / KPA500 Drive Power Greater Than 12 watts

2020-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tony,

The other comments are correct, but I will add one more.  Adjust the SSB 
audio so that you have 5 to 7 bars on the ALC meter when talking into 
the mic.  If you have less than that, the K3/K3S will "Power Hunt" 
trying to keep up with the requested power.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/4/2020 9:20 PM, Tony wrote:

Rick Et al:

The K3S makes 110 watts measured so the rigs finals appear to be just 
fine. Audio is also clean with no distortion. After further testing, I 
found that the power drop is only momentary.


The RF output on the KPA500 does drop when the drive on the K3S is 
increased from 12 to 13 watts, but it quickly rebounds to it's normal 
output a few seconds later.



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Re: [Elecraft] Unable to send WAV file to K2

2020-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mark,

YES, that is what I meant.  The fingers did not catch up with the mind - 
a sign of aging!


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/4/2020 5:34 PM, Mark Musick wrote:

Mike,
Don's message said:
A BTW note - I hope you are plugging that USB to serial adapter directly into 
the K2 AUX IO connector.
I think he meant to say "I hope you are NOT plugging that USB to serial adapter 
directly into the K2 AUX IO connector."

73,
Mark, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 21:57
To: Mike Kopacki 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unable to send WAV file to K2

Mike,

All that is fine for CW, but for playing WAV files (I assume audio for SSB 
mode), you have to have a connection from the computer soundcard to the K2 
Microphone input.  There is no other way to get SSB audio into the K2.

OTOH, if the WAV file is for keying the Winkeyer in CW mode, that would be a 
question to be directed at K1EL - I did not think you could create CW from a 
WAV file, but if possible it would have to be done in the WinKeyer - it is not 
a K2 consideration.

A BTW note - I hope you are plugging that USB to serial adapter directly into 
the K2 AUX IO connector.  You MUST use the special cable for the K2 to PC.  
Plugging a full RS232 port into the K2 AUX IO connector may cause damage to the 
K2 and will cause strange behaviors.  Only 3 pins of the K2 connector are 
RS-232.  The remaining ones are internal K2 signal lines to be used for 
communicating with external Elecraft gear such as the transverters, the KAT100, 
and KRC2.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/4/2020 4:34 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

The WinKeyer is connected to the USB port on the tablet. There is a USB to 
serial cable from the WinKeyer to K2. The cable was from K1EL who makes the 
WinKeyer.

Thanks,
Mike


On Mar 4, 2020, at 3:18 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Mike,

Please describe your method of connecting the computer soundcard output to the 
K2 Microphone jack.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 3/4/2020 3:05 PM, NJMike wrote:
I am using a Windows 10 tablet, connected to a WinKeyer USB box and
then to an Elecraft K2.  I use N1MM+ Logger for my logging software.
This setup is working fine on CW.  Now I am trying to play a WAV
file assigned to a function key in N1MM.  It plays fine on the
tablet but is not being sent to the K2.
I have exhausted all user manuals and not come up with the answer.
Any help will be appreciated!


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Re: [Elecraft] Unable to send WAV file to K2

2020-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

All that is fine for CW, but for playing WAV files (I assume audio for 
SSB mode), you have to have a connection from the computer soundcard to 
the K2 Microphone input.  There is no other way to get SSB audio into 
the K2.


OTOH, if the WAV file is for keying the Winkeyer in CW mode, that would 
be a question to be directed at K1EL - I did not think you could create 
CW from a WAV file, but if possible it would have to be done in the 
WinKeyer - it is not a K2 consideration.


A BTW note - I hope you are plugging that USB to serial adapter directly 
into the K2 AUX IO connector.  You MUST use the special cable for the K2 
to PC.  Plugging a full RS232 port into the K2 AUX IO connector may 
cause damage to the K2 and will cause strange behaviors.  Only 3 pins of 
the K2 connector are RS-232.  The remaining ones are internal K2 signal 
lines to be used for communicating with external Elecraft gear such as 
the transverters, the KAT100, and KRC2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/4/2020 4:34 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

The WinKeyer is connected to the USB port on the tablet. There is a USB to 
serial cable from the WinKeyer to K2. The cable was from K1EL who makes the 
WinKeyer.

Thanks,
Mike


On Mar 4, 2020, at 3:18 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Mike,

Please describe your method of connecting the computer soundcard output to the 
K2 Microphone jack.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 3/4/2020 3:05 PM, NJMike wrote:
I am using a Windows 10 tablet, connected to a WinKeyer USB box and then to
an Elecraft K2.  I use N1MM+ Logger for my logging software.
This setup is working fine on CW.  Now I am trying to play a WAV file
assigned to a function key in N1MM.  It plays fine on the tablet but is
not being sent to the K2.
I have exhausted all user manuals and not come up with the answer.  Any help
will be appreciated!



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Re: [Elecraft] Unable to send WAV file to K2

2020-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

Please describe your method of connecting the computer soundcard output 
to the K2 Microphone jack.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 3/4/2020 3:05 PM, NJMike wrote:

I am using a Windows 10 tablet, connected to a WinKeyer USB box and then to
an Elecraft K2.  I use N1MM+ Logger for my logging software.

This setup is working fine on CW.  Now I am trying to play a WAV file
assigned to a function key in N1MM.  It plays fine on the tablet but is
not being sent to the K2.

I have exhausted all user manuals and not come up with the answer.  Any help
will be appreciated!

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM



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Re: [Elecraft] Unwanted audio

2020-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Martin,

Just a thought - do you have anything plugged into the LINE IN jack?  Or 
do you have MIC plus LINE set on?
Another thought - do you have the FP mic set to turn on the additional 
mic preamp?


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/3/2020 3:31 PM, Martin wrote:

Elecrafters,
my K3 shows a strange Problem. On USB it transmits a tone at about 2khz 
above (respectively on LSB about 2khz below) carrierpoint. This happens 
even with no mic attached. The level of the tone follows the setting of 
the 2.4khz level of TXEQ. It also follows Mic Gain level.

Anyone know what to do?
Setup: Dynamic Mic on Frontpanel (or removed, doesn't matter), tap XMIT, 
listen on sdr-console.



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Re: [Elecraft] High Current only on 20 Meters

2020-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lee,

That should be fine.  Try doing the Transmit Gain Calibration on the K3 
and if it persists afterwards, email supp...@elecraft.com.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/4/2020 1:54 PM, Leroy Buller wrote:
Don. It goes to 12.9 volts on 20.  On 40 it goes to 13.0.  Current on 
20 goes to 24 amps then gives me the message.  No rig runner.  24 inch 
#10 wire to the k3


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Re: [Elecraft] High Current only on 20 Meters

2020-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lee,

What is the voltage out of your power supply during transmit?  View it 
with the K3 ALT VFO B display.  If it is below 12 volts, check your 
power supply connections.  If you are powering the K3 through a 
RigRunner or other DC distribution system, eliminate it for the K3 and 
connect directly to the power supply terminals.


The K3 will try to keep the power constant, so if the voltage is low, 
the current must go up.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/4/2020 1:32 PM, Leroy Buller wrote:

I have a K3 that seems to have a problem.  I am getting HI CURRENT warning
only on 20 meters.  The antenna is matched.  80, 40 and 15 do not have the
issue.  The current meter on the power supply does show quite a bit of
current (20+ amps) on 20 meters but when I reduce power it stops giving me
the issue on 20 meters.  When I reduce power on 20 meters, the high current
goes away around 65 watts.

Anyone have an idea what is going on?  I do appreciated the help


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Re: [Elecraft] Unusual Behavior K3S / KPA500 Drive Power Greater Than 12 watts

2020-03-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tony,

Try doing the TX Gain Calibration on the K3S.  You only need a dummy 
load that is flat (1:1 SWR) up through 6 meters along with K3 Utility.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/4/2020 1:48 AM, Tony wrote:

All:

I've noticed an unusual thing happen with my K3S and KPA500 amplifier 
while in SSB mode. When I increase the K3S drive beyond 12 watts, the 
KPA500 power drops-off dramatically. This only happens in SSB mode.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and JTDX

2020-03-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Paul,

I do not have any setup information relevant to the gear you are using, 
but you must obtain 4 bars solid with the 5th bar flashing on the K3 ALC 
meter.  Failure to achieve that will result in no transmit or erratic 
power from the K3.


I have information on my website to aid you in setting the audio levels 
to achieve that target.
Go to my website www.w3fpr.com and scroll down the left column to the 
last article and click to open the document.


I hope that helps.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/3/2020 12:22 PM, Paul GRANGER wrote:

Hi all
Maybe this has been asked already, but...
I am trying to configure my K3 so it can do FT8 with JTDX.
I know that, in the radio tab of JTDX, some people use K3, some people
use none.
What is/are the advantages/disavanteges of each ?
I have a MicroHam USB2 (no soundcard built-in), but I can of course
connect my computer directlyy to the K3 with 2 audio cables (both
stereo) without going through the MicroHam.

So far, I was ble to configure JTDX to receive, but after spending more
than 10 hours "playing" with the 10,000 setups involved, I am still
unable to transmit.
At some stage, I was able to key the KL3 to go TX, BUT no power output
at all.


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Re: [Elecraft] Comments from Special Forces personnel on KX2 use

2020-03-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Most any wire you put up can be made to radiate.  The problem is 
matching the feedpoint to the feedline.  If you want to use coax for the 
feedline, you must provide a proper matching network at the antenna 
(balun or otherwise).  Open wire line can be used with a matching 
network in the shack.


If you are transmitting at 100 watts (or 10), all that power will go 
into the radiator and be radiated.  If you are concerned about how 
effective that radiation will be consult the antenna books and look at 
the elevation and azimuth radiation patterns to obtain your answers.

L.B. Cebik (SK) did a lot of antenna radiation models.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/2/2020 2:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Folks these days seem to be looking for the perfect [magic?] antenna and 
are reluctant to just try a basic "non-buried conductor" unless it comes 
with the magic guarantee first.  I'm somewhat constrained by our HOA's 
Architectural Review Committee [OK, nothing visible].  My 135' end-fed 
wire along the wooden fence works surprisingly well at 100 W considering 
it is just about eye level all the way.  As good as 5 over 5 over 5 at 
100' on 40?  Not quite, but I can make Q's on any open band anytime I 
want including DXpeditions where I wait a few days until the bruhaha has 
settled down some.



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 190, Issue 22 Open Office etc

2020-02-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
Both Libre Office and Open Office are free complete suites for Word 
Processing, spreadsheet, presentations, and database uses.  What is 
more, they are multi-platform.  Quite comparable to MS Office and have a 
similar look and feel.


They can be set to save in MS Office formats, but those are not the 
default file types.  I use Libre Office for all my documents and 
spreadsheets as well as exporting as .pdf files.  Don't have MS Office 
on any of my computers, except for the one my wife uses - she won't 
switch, yet!


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/29/2020 3:26 PM, David Gilbert wrote:



PDF24 is free, period, and works great.

https://en.pdf24.org/

Dave   AB7E


On 2/29/2020 9:50 AM, Neil Zampella wrote:

Jim

if all you're using Open/Libre Office for is creating PDFs, you may want
to look at the PDF printer driver from Software995.com.    Its free

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Re: [Elecraft] Strange Behavior on P3

2020-02-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Robin,

I certainly have not seen that behavior, but recommend you go over the 
P3SVGA and P3TXMON option instructions.
Are all cables fully plugged in, and are the cables dressed inside like 
what is shown in the diagrams?  You may have to devise some kind of 
'clip or support' to keep the cables in place.  If I recall, I used a 
length of wire to wrap around the cables for the P3SVGA to keep them in 
place.  I do not have the P3TXMON option installed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/28/2020 5:43 PM, W4IEN wrote:

My P3 has started to exhibit some strange behavior since I installed the SVGA 
and TXMon options.  Every time I turn the VFO A the P3 acts like it is being 
overloaded and the display shows interference.  I have never noticed this 
before.  Has anyone seen this behavior before?  I am running a K3S with the P3.


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Re: [Elecraft] Excel Test

2020-02-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
If you do not have Microsoft Word, then you should download and install 
LibreOffice.  It is a full Office suite that is quite similar to 
Microsoft Office.  And it is free to use.  It will read any file 
produced by MS Office, and it also exports to .pdf format.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/26/2020 11:31 AM, James Walker wrote:

I would say it differently. I would say PDF is where text goes to be read. I 
decline to download any text file that’s not PDF. Too risky. It's amazing to me 
how many people will send out a file in a proprietary format like Microsoft 
Word and expect all the recipients to be able to read it.

Jimmy Walker, WA4ILO, Macon, GA

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Re: [Elecraft] Excel Test

2020-02-26 Thread Don Wilhelm
Yes, but .pdf preserves the author's content and formatting and is 
viewable by anyone using Adobe Reader (free).
LibreOffice will reliably export a .doc or .xml file as a .pdf document. 
 I don't know about Microsoft Office since I don't use it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2020 11:04 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:

I got it from somebody else. Before I heard this, I said that PDF is where text 
goes to die.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)


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Re: [Elecraft] Found: P3

2020-02-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
The SVGA option for the P3 is not a normal computer type VGA card.  You 
need the option designed to use the signals in the P3.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/18/2020 12:54 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

Thank you very much! I should have it connected and going before the end of
the week.

  


I am wondering if it's a good idea to buy a pre-owned VGA card for the P3,
that is of course if I can find one.


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Re: [Elecraft] Connecting K3/0 to K3S

2020-02-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Sorry for the finger slip - thanks Ed - the baud rate is 38400.  You 
will not find 28400 listed, so it should be obvious.


73,
Don W3FPR

---
There is an RS-232 "dongle" that ships with every K3S. It has an RJ-45 
plug on one end and an RS-232 DE9 connector on the other end.
If you plug it in, change the switch on the KIO3B board (inside the K3S) 
to RS-232 and change the RS232 menu entry to 28400 baud, you can use 
that connection just like on the K3 - note that you will also use that 
same connection for firmware downloads and other K3 Utility operations 
(i.e. the USB connection will not be usable).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2020 6:05 PM, W4IEN wrote:
I have a problem that I am sure some of you have run into. I am trying 
to use my K3S remotely using a K3/0 with the RemoteRig 1258 MKIIs 
hardware. I can get everything set up except for the connection from 
the RS232 to the RS232 on the RemoteRig hardware. The RS232 on the K3S 
does not have the same type of connector as the RemoteRig hardware. 
Has anyone gotten around this problem. Any help would be appreciated. 
Hope I explained my situation well enough so it is understandable.

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Re: [Elecraft] Connecting K3/0 to K3S

2020-02-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
There is an RS-232 "dongle" that ships with every K3S. It has an RJ-45 
plug on one end and an RS-232 DE9 connector on the other end.
If you plug it in, change the switch on the KIO3B board (inside the K3S) 
to RS-232 and change the RS232 menu entry to 28400 baud, you can use 
that connection just like on the K3 - note that you will also use that 
same connection for firmware downloads and other K3 Utility operations 
(i.e. the USB connection will not be usable).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2020 6:05 PM, W4IEN wrote:

I have a problem that I am sure some of you have run into.  I am trying to use 
my K3S remotely using a K3/0 with the RemoteRig 1258 MKIIs hardware.  I can get 
everything set up except for the connection from the RS232 to the RS232 on the 
RemoteRig hardware.  The RS232 on the K3S does not have the same type of 
connector  as the RemoteRig hardware.  Has anyone gotten around this problem.  
Any help would be appreciated.  Hope I explained my situation well enough so it 
is understandable.

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Re: [Elecraft] When might there be a P3 sale or drop in price

2020-02-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Consider that the P3 also has an IF output, so you can run the P3 along 
with the LP-Pan, SDRs, etc.  For those who want mouse QSY as well as the 
P3 display, that can be 'the best of both worlds'.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2020 1:24 PM, M. George wrote:

Everyone's setup and goals are different, but I can add my perspective on
this topic having owned an LP-PAN2 for years.  Plus I bought and owned a P3
with the VGA addon for comparison with the way I operate from my home
station with my K3S.  I also have tried both the RSP1a and the RSPduo with
the LP-PAN2.  Having spent time and money on all these solutions to compare
them, it was a simple decision to return to the LP-PAN2 using the ASUS
Xonar U7 to preset the I/Q output of the LP-PAN2 on screen for use on the
desktop.  Again, everyone has different requirements, so my conclusions
won't match with what other ops want from a setup. Here is what I'll
discuss.  1. P3, 2. SDRPlay SDR/RSP1/RSpduo etc.. connected to the IF
output of the K3/S, 3. LP-PAN2 with an ASUS Xonar U7.  The cliff notes
version here concludes that for NG7M, option 3 is clearly the hands down
winner for performance and desktop software integration.  Again, other
operators will disagree... I get it, everyone has different needs,
expectations, budget and patience required to understand and setup each of
these solutions.



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Re: [Elecraft] When might there be a P3 sale or drop in price

2020-02-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Rick and all,

The P3 can listen to the IF of most any receiver, not just the K3.  Its 
input is tunable from 455kHz up to 21 MHz.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2020 12:18 PM, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:
And don't forget that the P3 is actually an almost complete receiver 
(minus audio).  It just 'happens' to listen to the IF of the K3.



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 Switch from STBY to OPER

2020-02-10 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

No relays in the T/R switching path for the KPA500 - all solid state 
switching.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/10/2020 6:39 PM, Bill Weaver wrote:

If there is a relay in the rx signal path, check the contacts. I had that 
happen with my Alpha recently. Of all the possibilities that was the easiest 
thing to fix. Thankfully that was the problem :-).

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Microphone + PTT Cable

2020-02-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dick,

Yes, it can work, but you will be better served by using the super 
flexible Heil cable available from Heil Sound and perhaps other sources.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/9/2020 4:20 PM, Dick Dickinson wrote:

Can a 2 conductor + shield cable be used on the K3 for Mic + PTT.share the
same ground..?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 always 100 W

2020-02-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Pedro,

Email support at elecraft.com.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/9/2020 8:53 AM, Pedro, EA4KD wrote:

Don;

TUN PWR it´s on 15 and haven´t ATU.

Pedro, EA4KD

-Mensaje original-
De: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
Enviado el: domingo, 09 de febrero de 2020 14:02
Para: Pedro, EA4KD; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] K3 always 100 W

Pedro,

If it is not present with a long keydown in CW, and only in TUNE, the
wattmeter is NOT the problem.
Check your K3 menu for the setting of TUN PWR.
What does ATU TUNE do?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/9/2020 2:56 AM, Pedro, EA4KD wrote:

Thank you very much Don;

I have been testing and when do a tune the power is always 100 w although I 
have it set to 15 w in the TUN PWR menu., always 100 w.

In normal operation, cw or ssb, I can choose the power between 0 and 100 w 
without problem.

I will start checking the wattmeter.

Thank you very much for your help.

73 DX de Pedro, EA4KD

-Mensaje original-
De: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
Enviado el: sábado, 08 de febrero de 2020 20:55
Para: Pedro, EA4KD; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] K3 always 100 W

Pedro,

If it were a K2, I could tell you that the diodes in the wattmeter have
been damaged and need to be replaced.  Those symptoms are almost the same.

The K3 controls power in a similar manner, and I would suggest you start
with the wattmeter - I believe it is on the KAT3 board in the K3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2020 2:39 PM, Pedro, EA4KD wrote:

>From yesterday my k3 always gives 100 w in any band although select any
other power from 0 to 100, always 100 w in the external meter.

Also the swr  display shows "- -" and power 0 in any case.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 always 100 W

2020-02-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Pedro,

If it is not present with a long keydown in CW, and only in TUNE, the 
wattmeter is NOT the problem.

Check your K3 menu for the setting of TUN PWR.
What does ATU TUNE do?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/9/2020 2:56 AM, Pedro, EA4KD wrote:

Thank you very much Don;

I have been testing and when do a tune the power is always 100 w although I 
have it set to 15 w in the TUN PWR menu., always 100 w.

In normal operation, cw or ssb, I can choose the power between 0 and 100 w 
without problem.

I will start checking the wattmeter.

Thank you very much for your help.

73 DX de Pedro, EA4KD

-Mensaje original-
De: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
Enviado el: sábado, 08 de febrero de 2020 20:55
Para: Pedro, EA4KD; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] K3 always 100 W

Pedro,

If it were a K2, I could tell you that the diodes in the wattmeter have
been damaged and need to be replaced.  Those symptoms are almost the same.

The K3 controls power in a similar manner, and I would suggest you start
with the wattmeter - I believe it is on the KAT3 board in the K3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2020 2:39 PM, Pedro, EA4KD wrote:

>From yesterday my k3 always gives 100 w in any band although select any
other power from 0 to 100, always 100 w in the external meter.

Also the swr  display shows "- -" and power 0 in any case.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 always 100 W

2020-02-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Pedro,

If it were a K2, I could tell you that the diodes in the wattmeter have 
been damaged and need to be replaced.  Those symptoms are almost the same.


The K3 controls power in a similar manner, and I would suggest you start 
with the wattmeter - I believe it is on the KAT3 board in the K3.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2020 2:39 PM, Pedro, EA4KD wrote:

From yesterday my k3 always gives 100 w in any band although select any

other power from 0 to 100, always 100 w in the external meter.

Also the swr  display shows "- -" and power 0 in any case.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Adding amplifier PTT out to K2

2020-02-07 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bruce,

As original as it gets is Tom's own documentation.  BTW, the board 
header goes in K2 RF Board J13 which has power for the circuit as well 
as the 8R signal.  Solder the header into J13 and mount the output javk 
on the rear panel - populate the board and plug it in.


Go to Tom's website preserved at http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/. 
Scroll down to Elecraft K2 - Related Files.  On that page you will find
the K2 (BASIC) External T-R Relay Driver.  Click on that link to open 
the .pdf document.  The parts list Mouser numbers may have changed, but 
otherwise the parts list is complete.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/7/2020 4:18 PM, K1FFX wrote:


I contacted FAR Circuits about the N0SS Amp Keying Circuit, and heard right
back from Fred.
He can, in fact, supply that PCB (as well as, he informed me, a PCB for the
K2 fixed audio
output mod).  I'll be ordering the N0SS board when I get back North next
month.

Is there an "original" document that went along with the N0SS circuit, which
might
suggest where/how to mount the board, and where to pick up the K2's 8R
signal?


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Re: [Elecraft] QRO - KPA500 Failure

2020-02-07 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

You are correct.  I am seeing a lot of confusion and erroneous 
conclusions based on the terms 'efficiency', 'dissipation' coupled with 
'power output'.
As an example, consider that a PA running at 50% efficient at 500 watts 
will dissipate 500 watts of heat and 500 watts of power out.  Input DC 
power will be 1000 watts.
Now back the power down to 250 watts - yes, the efficiency will be less, 
say 33%.  That is 250 watts of power output, but 67% of the total power 
into the amp would be lost as heat - 417 watts of heat.  Input power is 
less too at 667 watts.


That drop in efficiency at lower than max design power is true for any 
amp designed for their maximum rated power output (as most are).


The only ones who should be concerned are those who are monitoring their 
draw from the AC line and their resulting utility bill.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 2/7/2020 10:16 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
There may be reasons for running at less than the amplifier max such as 
the US 200 watt 30m band limitation.  I have no RF engineering knowledge 
but after looking at your data I see less heat with lower output wattage 
which seems to me like it would be less stress on finals.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 60 Meter Channels?

2020-02-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ken,

Download the K2 manual (unless you have a recent printed copy) and look 
at Channel Hopping on page 103.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/6/2020 3:08 PM, Ken Jones wrote:

Hi all,
Haven’t used the 60 meter band for over a year in my 2003 K2 and when I went to 
the band this weekend, it just tunes, no VFO stepping thru the channels anymore?
Looked at the 60M board manual but no luck getting it back to normal.

Can someone point me in the right direction to get the channelization back?
That D19 menu diode option is on.

Thanks for any help!
Ken, W2GIW











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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Adding amplifier PTT out to K2

2020-02-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Eric,

Send an email to FAR Circuits to see if they have the N0SS Amp Keying 
Circuit for the K2 available.


If you must go the perfboard route, it is not difficult if you follow 
the board layout shown on Tom Hammond's (SK) website 
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/index_k2.html.  Most of the connections 
can be made using bent over component leads if you follow Tom's board 
layout.


There are few other viable alternatives to sourcing the output from the 
8R signal line.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/4/2020 8:48 PM, eric norris via Elecraft wrote:

Dear Gang:
I know one could take the PTT signal from the now-discontinued K60XV board, and 
it is provided on the K2/100 lid, but are there any other option boards that 
one can use to provide an external PTT signal?
If not, is anyone making the N0SS ptt out boards?  I'm trying to avoid the 
perfboard route.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 in K3S mostly not working

2020-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Carl,

Unless you are OK with operating at the 11 watt level and below, I would 
ask for an RSA and send in the K3S as soon as you get it.  Turn around 
times on repairs are typically 2 to 3 weeks depending on the backlog.


The K4 is not likely to ship until late April or early May, and I don't 
know how far down on the order list you may be - I surmise there are a 
LOT of pre-orders.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2020 5:34 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:

When I get my K4 (hopefully May . . .), I currently plan to send in my K3S for 
repair. I have already talked with support.
The symptoms are:
1) In transmit mode, no power when raising the power above 11 watts. This 
happens about 90% of the time. So the 100w amp is not totally gone.
2) In receive mode, sound drops considerably when raising the power above 11 
watts. This is, of course, coincident with the 100w amp failing.
I haven’t found anything that causes the amp to come and go. Seems random. In 
can be OK while sending and the suddenly fail.
Also, the transmit calibration fails.


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 defekt, T/R pin diodes, which type, how to change?

2020-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Olaf,

Your best answer will come from Elecraft support.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2020 4:10 PM, dl7...@darc.de wrote:


We have a KPA500 in our station setup of HU1DL.

After some days of operation (and changing of bands, filters, antennas),
the T/R pin diodes are blown (D8/ D9).


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S relay noise when using Rx ANT IN port

2020-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
But that would preclude allowing receive on the SubRX while transmitting 
- in other words SOTR operation.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2020 5:58 AM, Dave B via Elecraft wrote:

I'm somewhat surprised Elecraft don't just flip that relay into the
"protect" position whenever the radio Transmits.

Or at least have a menu option for that relay's behaviour, that defaults
to the "Safe" situation (RX made "Safe" during TX.)  But if you really
do need to, able to be set so the RX automatically protects itself when
it thinks it is needed, as at present.

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Re: [Elecraft] Kx3, wsjtx, broadband noise

2020-02-02 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

It would appear as though you are receiving noise from somewhere.  Your 
steps have eliminated your house, but your neighbors may be the source.


I don't have an easy answer, but I don't think it is in your KX3.  To 
test, does it occur if you connect a dummy load?  If not, it is coming 
in on your antenna.


Filters and NR and NB are not likely to tackle it adequately.  You will 
have to locate the source and send a notice to the FCC for action.  You 
can use the KX3 portable with a short antenna to try to localize the source.


Sounds like the interference from "grow lights" that have been reported 
in the past.  Are any of your neighbors starting gardening plants or 
growing pot under UV Grow Lights?


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/2/2020 5:13 PM, Tox wrote:

Hoping someone has a suggestion for how I can work around some local QRM.

I have a kx3 with filters installed
I have wsjtx running.
I've recently added a px3 to see if it would help provide insight.

I find intermittent broadband noise that desenses my receiver on multiple
bands. 1) It appears to either be On or Off, no visible fading.
(Transitions are <<1 second). Sometimes a little flickering but usually
extends for minutes to hours.
2) When on, signals in waterfall completely disappear or are reduced to
just a couple nearby (loud) stations
3) when on, it wipes out at least one whole band (usually 20m, sometimes
40m as well).
4) when on, the full 200khz slice in px3 goes green snow
5) still happens if I throw breaker in my subpanel and am running off of
batteries
6) with 30 min of fiddling, haven't been able to see it in a kiwisdr node
less than a mile away
7) pskreporter still shows me to be getting out (to the extent I can)

Broadband, no visible peaks, so not sure I could triangulate it by
wardriving with a Kerberos.

Any suggestions?


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Re: [Elecraft] FT8 Driver Issue

2020-02-02 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lee,

In addition to the MIC Gain and the WSJT POWER slider (misnamed because 
it is just another audio level control, you also have to deal with the 
computer soundcard audio level.  It should be set for Line Level instead 
of speaker if that is possible, and that is one of the 3 audio controls 
that you have to manipulate.


Go to my website www.w3fpr.com and scroll the left column to the last 
article and click to see the article dealing with this problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/2/2020 6:59 PM, Lee Murrah via Elecraft wrote:

I am running WSJT-X in FT8 mode on my K3S using the onboard sound card and USB 
cable and VOX for keying. My computer is a Mac running Catalina. The K3S manual 
recommends setting the drive at 4 or 5 bars to avoid distortion by the ALC.. 
When I use the audio output slider set the drive level, the display jumps from 
no bars to 6 bars, and vice versa, and nothing on between.  I have also tried 
using the MIC level and the POWER slider in FT8 with the same results.  The 
software id decoding fine. Can anyon suggest what the problem might be?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S relay noise when using Rx ANT IN port

2020-02-01 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ray,

Your transmit signal is getting into your RX antenna with more energy 
than is safe for the K3S.  10 meters is not much separation unless the 
antennas are oriented so one is not in the null pattern of the other.


Using antennas that are of opposite polarization (such as a horizontal 
dipole and a vertical) may be OK for a 10 meter separation, maybe not.


There are protective devices available that will disconnect the RX 
antenna when the K3S is transmitting, and use of one of those may be the 
quickest and easiest solution.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/1/2020 5:21 PM, raycollins wrote:


My K3S is configured to use the RX ANT IN port for a separate Rx antenna.
However, on SSB transmissions I can hear an internal relay operating in
synchronism with peaks in transmit power.  I assume this is a relay in the
receiver input protection circuit?

Is operation of the relay in this manner normal? Apart from finding the
noise rather irritating I am concerned about the reliability of the relay
when it is called upon to operate so many times during a QSO.

The Tx and Rx antennas are about 10 metres apart and I am transmitting 100
Watts.


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Re: [Elecraft] Power Cable Wire size

2020-01-31 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

The wire is #18 AWG.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/31/2020 7:28 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:

What size wire is used in the power cable supplied to the KX3? I see the
current rating numbers, but never the actual are size.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S, VOX and WSJT-X?

2020-01-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Frank,

Although several others have had success with VOX, I find the most 
reliable is to use PTT via CAT command.  Set it in the application and 
you will have no problem.


If your problem is related to audio levels, refer to my website 
www.w3fpr.com.  Scroll the left column to the last article and click to 
open the page.  No matter whether you are operating from the transverter 
mode or the normal antenna, you must have 4 bars solid with the 5th bar 
flashing on the ALC meter.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/29/2020 9:35 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:

Bob,

First, let me back up and say that I'm operating with the K3S in 
transverter mode on 630m with an external power amp. I've successfully 
used CAT control with WSJT-X on a MacBook Pro to tx/rx JT9 and WSPR. My 
objective now is to use the K3S in VOX mode with a Windows 10 desktop 
running two instances of WSJT-X, 

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Re: [Elecraft] Dual Receivers 2 different antennas Diversity receive

2020-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Such a relay is a workable solution.
BUT be aware that the K3 KEYOUT only provides a ground.  The relay coil 
must be connected to a voltage source.  Since you are also using an 
amplifier on the KEYOUT line, you will have to carefully match the 
voltage of the relay and its voltage supply with the voltage provided in 
the amplifier - if you do not, there will be current flow between the 
amplifier and your relay's power source.


That current flow can be prevented by the use of a series diode in each 
leg of the "Y".  If the diodes are used, there is not as great a need 
for matching the voltages.


So things are a bit more involved than just using a "Y" cable.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/28/2020 5:31 PM, Conrad PA5Y wrote:

If you want to be absolutely certain you could add an external relay driven 
from the key output. If you use this port to key you PA then you can just use a 
Y splitter. There are hundreds of suitable relays on eBay. Configure so that on 
TX the sub RX is terminated with 50 ohms. Typically relays such as Dow Key 401 
series will give well over 100dB isolation on HF through 6m, they say 85dB but 
it's a lot more on all the ones I have measured.

For example

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dow-Key-401-175-RF-Microwave-Switch-15V-SMA-NSN-5985-01-320-1388/143186092545

Regards

Conrad PA5Y


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of VernonJ
Sent: 28 January 2020 20:28
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Dual Receivers 2 different antennas Diversity receive

My K3S has Main and Sub receivers. I would like to use Diversity receive with 
the Main using the transmit antenna, and my Sub using a small receive loop.
Is there sufficient isolation on the Receive Only antenna connection to protect 
the Sub? Antennas are 60 feet apart, and I intend to run 500 watts at some 
point. If I need additional isolation and protection, how would I do this? 
Thanks.



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Dual Receivers 2 different antennas Diversity receive

2020-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Vernon,

Give it a try, a lot will depend on the relative orientation of the loop 
and your transmit antenna (in other words, no one can predict for you).


If you hear the COR in the subRX begin to click, you will know that 
there is too much pickup on the RX antenna.


There are several protective devices available in the ham marketplace.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/28/2020 2:27 PM, VernonJ wrote:

My K3S has Main and Sub receivers. I would like to use Diversity receive with
the Main using the transmit antenna, and my Sub using a small receive loop.
Is there sufficient isolation on the Receive Only antenna connection to
protect the Sub? Antennas are 60 feet apart, and I intend to run 500 watts
at some point. If I need additional isolation and protection, how would I do
this? Thanks.

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Re: [Elecraft] VFO B dead

2020-01-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Gary,

You have to remove the front panel assembly.  The encoder must be 
removed from the rear of the Front Panel.


It is not difficult, try it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/27/2020 10:59 AM, Gary K9GS wrote:

Thank you Vic and others.It's been a long time since I assembled my K3. I 
reviewed the assembly documentation last night. I did not remember that the 
encoders plug into the PCBA. It looks like a pretty straightforward disassembly 
and reassembly.Vic asked if the encoder could have come unplugged, possibly in 
shipping when my K3 was back at Elecraft. I'm not sure how that could happen 
since the encoder is attached to the front panel with a nut. The nut and the 
VFO knob would have to both be missing for that to happen. I just wonder if 
since I have to take the whole front panel off to replace, should I just order 
replacements?Does anyone know if the encoders can be replaced if I remove the 
knob and nut without taking the front panel off?If I get some time this week 
I'll open up the K3 and take a look.73,Gary K9GS

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Re: [Elecraft] VFO B dead

2020-01-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Gary,

If you are not afraid of disassembling your K3, remove the Front Panel 
assembly and swap the encoder A with encoder B.  If the problem follows 
the encoder, then order a new encoder from Elecraft.  If that is not the 
problem, contact supp...@elecraft.com for additional checks.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/26/2020 5:34 PM, Gary K9GS wrote:

I just had my K3 in for service and a checkup.  I REALLY hope I can avoid 
sending it in again. The VFO B knob is completely dead.  Turning it does not 
tune VFO B.  Also tried the config screen...same thing.I suspect the encoder is 
bad but it showed no symptoms prior..otherwise I would have had it changed out 
when I sent it in.All other front panel functions appear to work.Any 
ideas?73,Gary K9GS

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Re: [Elecraft] anyone recommend where to buy a SERIAL to USB cable fora k3

2020-01-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
I can also recommend the Edgeport USB to serial converters.  They are 
designed for commercial use rather than consumer.  I have 2 of the 4 
port adapters.  One for the home station computer and the other for use 
with the laptop when I am working away from the home station.  The 
latter will serve as a replacement should one fail, but they are sturdy 
devices and not prone to failure.


To run the KX2/KX3/XG3 from a serial port, you can use the KXSER adapter 
from Elecraft, or build your own from the schematic shown near the end 
of the XG3 manual.


I would rather use the Edgeport instead of a USB hub should you run 
short on USB ports.  My shack desktop computer has 6, 2 of which are 
taken up by the keyboard and mouse, and 1 for an external USB soundcard. 
 That leaves only 3 for the ham gear, and one of those is for the 
Edgeport and another the KXUSB for my KX-Line - leaves only one USB port 
for other uses.  My laptop has only 2 USB ports available, so I use the 
Edgeport-4 to run all the RS-232 devices that will accept that signalling.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/25/2020 8:50 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 1/25/2020 4:13 PM, Wes wrote:

I highly recommend Edgeport USB to serial adapters.


YES! These are industrial quality products, come in multiple 
configurations. I'm using one with two ports in my station, and bought a 
second one (with more ports) to have as a spare.



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 with KPA100/KAT100

2020-01-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ed and all,

It is more complicated than "build an interface".

The KPA100 and KAT100 depend on internal signals in the K2 for proper 
operation.
The first is '12CTRL' which is used to tell the KPA100 that the K2 has 
12 volts present.
Second is '8R' which tells the KPA100 that the K2 has been put into 
transmit.
I will admit that those 2 above could be 'dummied up' by a 12 volt "ON" 
switch and 'PTT'.  But there are other critical signals that are not 
possible except with the K2 base.


The first of those is the 'AUXBUS' which is necessary for the KPA100 and 
KAT100 firmware to operate.  This 'one wire' signal is the main signal 
to communicate among the various firmware processors in the K2 system. 
It includes band data as well as PA temperature, fan state, current 
indication, fan speed control, control of the KPA100 T/R state, TUNE 
power and KAT100 tuning control, detection of actual power output over 
the VRFDET line so the K2 firmware can control the power output.  It is 
also necessary to calculate the SWR as well as measuring the actual 
power output and feeding that information to the base K2 firmware for 
drive power control.


Those latter signal lines would be quite impossible to drag out of a 
KX3, yet they are essential to the proper operation of the KPA100/KAT100.


If one were to redesign the hardware and firmware of the KPA100 and 
KAT100, it may be possible to run them as a standalone amplifier and 
tuner, but given the magnitude of the task, selling the KPA100/KAT100 
and using the money to buy a KXPA100 and KXAT100 would be the best way 
to make a 100 watt system for the KX3.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/25/2020 2:41 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
At first I read KXPA100, not KPA100.  Of course the KXPA100 was designed 
to be a companion  to the KX3.


I have one and drive it with either my KX3 or K3/10 (10w version of the 
K3).


I suppose one could build an interface from KX3 to KPA100.  Basic need 
would be PTT, RF drive, and Band switching.



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Re: [Elecraft] Cleaning old black knobs on K3

2020-01-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

I would suggest removing the knobs and clean them with dish washing 
liquid, water and an old toothbrush.

Dry fully before putting them back on the K3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/24/2020 10:01 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

Any suggestions for the best cleaner for the old black screw locked knobs?

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 with KPA100/KAT100

2020-01-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Kev,

Sorry, but that will not work.  The KPA100/KAT100 needs internal signals 
from the K2.  Those signals are not available from the KX3.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/23/2020 11:20 PM, Kev Schache wrote:
I'm confined to operating from home due to age restraints but I'm also 
the very proud builder/owner of a K2 and a separate EC2 cased KPA100 and 
KAT100 - along the lines of W3DVX 'twins'.   In addition to that combo, 
I'm also the proud owner of a KX3 which seems to be developing a 
yearning for 100W.


I'm wondering if anyone has successfully used the KPA100/KAT100 with the 
KX3 ?  Is that practical or is that simply not feasible ??



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 on AM...

2020-01-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

The KPA500 is rated for 500 watts PEP.
With AM, that is 250 watts carrier, and 250 watts of sideband energy 
(125 watts for each sideband).  So your "talk power" is 125 watts, 
compared to 500 watts SSB.


Note that is for 10 minutes transmit with a 5 minute receive period.  If 
you are "long winded" and want to exceed that 10 minutes keydown, you 
should reduce the power.


See the specifications.  If you want to exceed the specification limits, 
you do so at your own peril, although the KPA500 has means to protect 
itself.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/19/2020 12:43 PM, Macy monkeys wrote:


One more question then I'll go back into hibernation. What is considered a safe 
drive level for the KPA500 when operating AM? I haven't tried it yet but I 
imagine the cooling fan goes into jet takeoff mode.

Thanks, John K7FD

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Re: [Elecraft] Hard of hearing, almost deaf K3

2020-01-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

Have you checked the antenna feedline and connectors.
Those can often create a "big attenuator".
Try the antenna on another receiver if possible.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/21/2020 11:43 AM, John Unger wrote:

  A few days ago one of my K3's appeared to have suddenly gone almost deaf.
Here are some of the symptoms and observations:

- Rig's S meter shows very low or no background noise (strong stations can
still be heard weakly).
- P3 shows 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB adapter problems

2020-01-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Chuck,

L34 must have been far out to do that.  It is connected right where the 
IF OUT signal is fed to the AGC, so it must have formed a resonance with 
C179 which increased the input to the AGC and desensed the receiver.


Did you use Spectrogram to adjust L34?  It is easily done in CW mode - 
you tune to the "birdie' at 7000kHz.  Then simply adjust for the peak 
that is also consistent with minimum 'grass' outside the filter passband.


The slug should end up no more than 1 or 2 turns from the top.
You can do it 'like the manual says', but it is easier to see visually.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2020 5:22 PM, myflyertra...@cfl.rr.com wrote:

Don,

I downloaded the software, and found I could get my SSB OPT1 filter looking 
great until I turned on the AGC in USB!

Well I did solve it. It was a poorly aligned L34 causing the problem. I had 
read on this list that L34 was very broad and did not do much. Not at all true!

Now turning AGC off and on does what you would expect. I am going to work 
though with the new software to better tweak things!

Thanks!

Chuck K8LBH


On Jan 14, 2020, at 2:52 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Chuck,

Your guess that the BFO is positioned inside the filter passbaad is likely 
correct.

Do you have the SSB FL1 filter set to OP1?  If not, try that first. Many times 
the filter on the RF Board (used for more narrow filter settings) becomes VERY 
wide - much wider than indicated by the K2.  It depends on the exact 
characteristics of the varactors.

If you are using the SSB OP1 filter, then check the capacitors around the KSB2 
filter crystals for proper values.  An improper capacitor will distort the 
passband shape and can make the passband quite wide.

The best way and more certain way to analyze the problem is to look at the K2 
audio with an audio spectrum analyzer like Spectrogram running on your computer 
and band noise fed into the K2 antenna (no signals, just noise)

You can download Spectrogram from my website www.w3fpr.com (scroll to near the 
bottom of the home page to find the local links).  If you do not use Windows, 
there are audio spectrum analyzers for other operating systems.
Instructions for setting up Spectrogram 5.17 and using it to align the filters 
can be found on Tom Hammond N0SS (SK) website preserved at 
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/k2_filters_using_gram_v5r17.pdf.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2020 1:22 PM, myflyertra...@cfl.rr.com wrote:

Hello,
I have been working on a new K2 the last couple of months. SN 7927
Yesterday I finished and installed the KSB2 SSB adapter.
I have been mostly listening. All seemed normal with receive on 80 and 40 
meters, on LSB.
But, as soon as I go to USB on any band below 21 mhz, or LSB 21 and above, the 
S meter goes to nearly full scale, and the receiver is desensitized. If I turn 
off the AGC, the receiver seems to work normally receiving both LSB and USB.
I have checked the BFO values and used the default value of 4916.3 for USB and 
4913.5 for LSB.
No setting of the USB BFO seems to solve the issue. I can change the value and 
drop the S meter with AGC on and hear the Receiver apparently return to normal, 
but then I can’t tune USB and the number I am using then is close to the LSB 
value.
Why the receiver works normally with AGC off, but not with AGC on on OP1 filter 
is puzzling to me. Everything is normal on the K2’s internal filters.
I assume this has something to do with the crystal filter and BFO frequencies, 
but no idea where to go.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
73 Chuck K8LBH


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB adapter problems

2020-01-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Chuck,

Your guess that the BFO is positioned inside the filter passbaad is 
likely correct.


Do you have the SSB FL1 filter set to OP1?  If not, try that first. 
Many times the filter on the RF Board (used for more narrow filter 
settings) becomes VERY wide - much wider than indicated by the K2.  It 
depends on the exact characteristics of the varactors.


If you are using the SSB OP1 filter, then check the capacitors around 
the KSB2 filter crystals for proper values.  An improper capacitor will 
distort the passband shape and can make the passband quite wide.


The best way and more certain way to analyze the problem is to look at 
the K2 audio with an audio spectrum analyzer like Spectrogram running on 
your computer and band noise fed into the K2 antenna (no signals, just 
noise)


You can download Spectrogram from my website www.w3fpr.com (scroll to 
near the bottom of the home page to find the local links).  If you do 
not use Windows, there are audio spectrum analyzers for other operating 
systems.
Instructions for setting up Spectrogram 5.17 and using it to align the 
filters can be found on Tom Hammond N0SS (SK) website preserved at 
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/k2_filters_using_gram_v5r17.pdf.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2020 1:22 PM, myflyertra...@cfl.rr.com wrote:

Hello,

I have been working on a new K2 the last couple of months. SN 7927

Yesterday I finished and installed the KSB2 SSB adapter.

I have been mostly listening. All seemed normal with receive on 80 and 40 
meters, on LSB.

But, as soon as I go to USB on any band below 21 mhz, or LSB 21 and above, the 
S meter goes to nearly full scale, and the receiver is desensitized. If I turn 
off the AGC, the receiver seems to work normally receiving both LSB and USB.

I have checked the BFO values and used the default value of 4916.3 for USB and 
4913.5 for LSB.

No setting of the USB BFO seems to solve the issue. I can change the value and 
drop the S meter with AGC on and hear the Receiver apparently return to normal, 
but then I can’t tune USB and the number I am using then is close to the LSB 
value.

Why the receiver works normally with AGC off, but not with AGC on on OP1 filter 
is puzzling to me. Everything is normal on the K2’s internal filters.

I assume this has something to do with the crystal filter and BFO frequencies, 
but no idea where to go.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

73 Chuck K8LBH


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Re: [Elecraft] Visit to Elecraft HQ worthwhile?

2020-01-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Terry,

If you are able, call (or better email) the office a couple days prior 
to your visit.  That way they can be prepared for you and will increase 
your chances of a complete tour.  If you just drop in and they are busy, 
they will have to be more brief.


If you can, make your visit Thursday or Friday.  Monday and Tuesday are 
busiest catching up with weekend emails and voicemail, and I  believe 
Wednesday morning is staff meeting time.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2020 2:00 AM, Terry Brown wrote:


I will be driving from OR to So. Cal. in March on Hwy. 1.   I see it runs 
within a stone’s throw of Elecraft’s HQ in Watsonville.

For those of you who have been there before, is it a worthwhile stop?   I don’t 
expect to see Eric or Wayne there if I stop, but at a minimum I would like to 
thank their fine staff for creating what has become an integral part of 
renewing my love of our great hobby.


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Re: [Elecraft] K-POD working intermitterly

2020-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

Do you tend to move the K-Pod frequently?  If so, that could be a reason 
for cable or connector failure.


Try holding the cable an inch or so from the connector (do that at each 
end).  Move the cable back and forth a bit - see if that induces the 
fail/no-fail situation.  If so, a cable replacement is in order.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2020 5:00 PM, John Altman wrote:

  My K-Pod has stopped working ... it works (macros are functional) for a
few minutes after K3S turned on and then power light is out and button
functions do not work!  Turn rig off and back on a few minutes later and it
functions, for awhile.

I have reloaded full firmware for both K3S and P3 ... no behavioral change.

I have disconnected K-Pod cable at both rig and K-Pod, re-connect, no
change.
Cable is connected in jack under front panel.

Otherwise, K3S is fully functional.  I am aware the “macros” reside within
the K3S.
Could this be the cable between the rig and K-POD?

Any ideas to remedy this situation will be greatly appreciated.  Direct
reply to wa4...@arrl.net.

Thank you,
John  WA4AIP
K-LINE Station
ARRL Charter Life Member
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Re: [Elecraft] K 2 setting

2020-01-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

Neil,

Sorry,  but that setting is not saved over a power cycle.
It is good to hear the Fixed Audio Output is serving you well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/12/2020 1:31 PM, Neil Foster wrote:

Recently I added to my K 2 the Fixed Audio board now available from Dave
W8FGU. It was originally designed by Don Wilhelm W3FPR and it works
perfectly. I have noticed that when I have set up the Bar display to show
ALC so I can monitor ALC (I monitor RF with an outboard meter) that when I
shut down and later come back the setting does not stay at ALC but reverts
to RF. Is there a way to have it stay in ALC display?
Many thanks
Neil   N4FN

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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K3] K3s throwing a "HIGH CURR" error after installing K144XV and Reference Phase Lock Option

2020-01-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

Clay,

Have you measured the voltage displayed by the K3S during transmit?  A 
low voltage is a common cause for Hi Curr.
Reduce the voltage drop in the power cord by running directly from the 
power supply (no DC distribution boxes) and make certain all connections 
are tight.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/12/2020 6:11 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
OK... so NONE of that worked...  So, I reinstalled everything and 
checked it 3 times...


Here is something

What should the voltage be on Pin #1 of P95 (XV12DC) be with respect to 
chassis?


I am reading 13.75 VDC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Band Data

2020-01-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Pedro and all,

The first K3 had band data outputs that were driven by open drain FETs. 
That means that the receiving unit had to provide the pullup voltage to 
operate properly.


Since almost no one in the amateur community understood the benefits of 
using open drain or open collector devices to drive the attached device 
(which would provide the pullup voltage), that was changed so the K3 
provided the pullup voltages early in the life of the K3.


If your K3 does not provide voltage on the band data lines, then you can 
add the resistors to +5 volts if you install the REMIOUPGD resistors to 
the band data lines.  This upgrade kit is no longer available from 
Elecraft, but the instructions can be found in the archives.
If you are also wanting to upgrade your K3 with the USB interface, you 
can install the KIO3BUKT3 which replaces the REMIOPGT  kit and provides 
pullup resistors on the band data lines.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/11/2020 6:53 PM, Pedro, EA4KD wrote:

I am the owner of an old K3 (Nov 2007 # 188) and now I need to use Band Data
outputs. As they did not work I have been looking for the problem and found
that a long time ago there was a board that sold Elecraft to solve the
problem (REMIOUPGD) for K3 before December 2008, but that is no longer
available.

  


Someone has available a board of these or information to be able to make
this modification and use the Band Data?.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Issue with HI CUR on 12m

2020-01-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

Is this into a dummy load (bypass the ATU or tune the ATU into the dummy 
load).
If it is into an antenna, there are a whole lot of guesses about how the 
antenna behaves with higher power levels than your antenna analyzer 
shows.  So check it with a dummy load to eliminate the possibility that 
the problem is in the antenna.


Put an external wattmeter in line with the dummy load to eliminate 
questions about the calibration on the K3 wattmeter.


If you can measure the actual current drawn, that would also be helpful.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/11/2020 11:18 AM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Back in early December, I installed two KSYN3As in my K3 SN 7071. Sometime 
after that, I noticed that on 12m, I’m seeing a HI CUR indication when I set 
the power level to more than about 80-85 watts. The K3 will back off on the 
power level, then slowly ramp back up until it hits HI CUR again.

I don’t remember seeing this before. After the KSYNC3A install, I ran the 
transmit gain calibration at both 5 and 50 watts, as specified in the 
instructions. Just in case something went awry, I ran it again.

I’m still seeing this problem. What causes HI CUR at 85 watts? The K3 ought to 
be able to produce over 110 watts on 12m.

I’m not seeing this issue on other bands.

No issues with calibration

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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: KX3 with KX3 Companion application

2020-01-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

It depends on the computer and the external soundcard - so the answer is 
'maybe'.
In general, if there is only one input, and it is configured for MIC, it 
will be mono.  If configured for LINE, it will be stereo.


So it depends on the soundcard settings.  If there are separate MIC and 
LINE inputs, check your computer specs.  There is no one answer other 
than "it all depends".


My college professor's advice back in 1966 was "Technician/Engineer, 
know your equipment and its capabilities as well as its limitations" - 
that still applies today.  One cannot speak in generalities about any 
equipment type unless the specifics are known - study the specifications 
for the proper answers to your specific equipment.


Based on that information, the one answer to your question is "maybe".

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/8/2020 8:19 PM, Nr4c wrote:

Are computer mic inputs still mostly MONO while the LineIn inputs are usually 
STEREO?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



On Jan 8, 2020, at 4:56 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Aubrey,

Did you enter the menu and set the RX IQ parameter to ON?  If set to OFF (the 
default) there will be nothing out of the RX IQ jack.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/8/2020 4:28 PM, Aubrey Mason wrote:

From: Aubrey Mason 
Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2020 3:27 PM
To: Walter Underwood 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 with KX3 Companion application
I need to know the specifics from someone who has already done it..
None of the written materials say what needs to be done and an audio cable 
between Rec IQ and the mic input of the tablet does nothing.

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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: KX3 with KX3 Companion application

2020-01-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
In addition to requiring a stereo input (Mic or Line In), an internal 
soundcard may not have sufficient bandwidth for a panadapter 
application, and an external soundcard may be needed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/8/2020 5:01 PM, Barry wrote:

Aubrey,
    A point that I missed, make sure your mic input is actually stereo 
and not mono, many are. It must be stereo.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: "Aubrey Mason" ; "Elecraft Reflector" 


Sent: 1/8/2020 4:51:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fw: KX3 with KX3 Companion application


Aubrey,

Did you enter the menu and set the RX IQ parameter to ON?  If set to 
OFF (the default) there will be nothing out of the RX IQ jack.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/8/2020 4:28 PM, Aubrey Mason wrote:




From: Aubrey Mason 
Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2020 3:27 PM
To: Walter Underwood 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 with KX3 Companion application

I need to know the specifics from someone who has already done it..
None of the written materials say what needs to be done and an audio 
cable between Rec IQ and the mic input of the tablet does nothing.



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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: KX3 with KX3 Companion application

2020-01-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Aubrey,

Did you enter the menu and set the RX IQ parameter to ON?  If set to OFF 
(the default) there will be nothing out of the RX IQ jack.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/8/2020 4:28 PM, Aubrey Mason wrote:




From: Aubrey Mason 
Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2020 3:27 PM
To: Walter Underwood 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 with KX3 Companion application

I need to know the specifics from someone who has already done it..
None of the written materials say what needs to be done and an audio cable 
between Rec IQ and the mic input of the tablet does nothing.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Q7 and Q8 Short to Ground

2020-01-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mark,

I trust you are using a DMM and not a VOM or other meter that applies a 
high voltage for resistance readings - those can destroy solid state 
devices.


The PA transistor collectors are connected directly to the +12 volt 
power rail, so a short anywhere on that power rail will be indicated as 
a short on the collectors of Q7 and Q8.
Note that this is the first time a resistance reading to the +12v power 
rail is done.


Normally, there is an electrolytic capacitor on that voltage rail which 
will show a resistance value that starts out rather low (about 500 to 
1000 ohms) and will climb with time as the capacitor charges to a higher 
value.  The initial resistance will depend on the voltage your DMM uses 
for measuring resistance.


So if you are seeing a direct short to ground, it is not necessarily a 
problem with Q7 or Q8.  To check the transistors themselves, remove T3 
which will remove Q7/Q8 from the +12 volt power rail.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 10:39 PM, Mark Yergin wrote:
Don - The PA’s have never seen any power nor have I tried to transmit 
yet.  In the morning I’m going to take all the panels and boards off 
the RF board and see if I still pass all the resistance checks.  I 
don’t understand how I can pass the resistance check and then see this 
behavior when the boards and panels are installed.


Mark W8EWH

On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 10:28 PM Don Wilhelm <mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>> wrote:


Mark,

The most usual cause of a Q7/Q8 short to ground is that the thermal
insulators are not installed properly.
However, your statement that you see the same with the heatsink off
indicates that the Q7 or Q8 transistors have been damaged by a
collector
to emitter short.  If the K2 was subjected to a transmit without the
heatsink installed, that could be reason for the demise of Q7/Q8
transistors.

Make certain that the PA mounting hardware is installed correctly,
especially the shoulder washers.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 9:11 PM, Mark Yergin wrote:
> I'm in the final stages of my K2 build, but having a problem
with Q7 and Q8
> shorting to ground.  When I did my Resistance Checks on pg 74, I
had 3.66K
> ohms to ground at the Q7 collector.  So that was fine. But when
I put all
> the boards and panels on, then attached Q7 and Q8 to the heat
sink, I see
> about 135 ohms between the Q7 and Q8 collectors and ground.  I
assume
> that's unacceptable.  I see the same with the heat sink off. 
Suggestions?



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Q7 and Q8 Short to Ground

2020-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mark,

The most usual cause of a Q7/Q8 short to ground is that the thermal 
insulators are not installed properly.
However, your statement that you see the same with the heatsink off 
indicates that the Q7 or Q8 transistors have been damaged by a collector 
to emitter short.  If the K2 was subjected to a transmit without the 
heatsink installed, that could be reason for the demise of Q7/Q8 
transistors.


Make certain that the PA mounting hardware is installed correctly, 
especially the shoulder washers.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 9:11 PM, Mark Yergin wrote:

I'm in the final stages of my K2 build, but having a problem with Q7 and Q8
shorting to ground.  When I did my Resistance Checks on pg 74, I had 3.66K
ohms to ground at the Q7 collector.  So that was fine.  But when I put all
the boards and panels on, then attached Q7 and Q8 to the heat sink, I see
about 135 ohms between the Q7 and Q8 collectors and ground.  I assume
that's unacceptable.  I see the same with the heat sink off.  Suggestions?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 problem "ERR DLL"

2020-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Rys,

The first thing to try are the steps indicated in the K3 manual listing 
of errors.


If those do not help, and this is an older K3, try removing the front 
panel assembly (the KDVR3 manual page 7 has good instructions for doing 
that).  If the pins on the front panel connector are tin plated, they 
should be replaced with the gold pins (Elecraft has a kit).  In any 
case, removing the front panel assembly and simply replacing it will 
wipe oxidation from the pins and can restore proper operation.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 2:02 PM, Ryszard Tymkiewicz wrote:
I have been using K3 for MANY years and the first time I got a message 
"ERROR DLL" ..there was a high noise level and I was not able to tune to 
stations. It was in my second QTH..when I got back home seems everything 
is OK. I don't know if it is a problem with contacts? If so which ones I 
should clean?

                                  73 Rys
     SP5EWY

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 parts to have 'on hand' ?

2020-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Brian,

I believe I can speak with authority having repaired over 1000 K2s in 
the last 15 years.


The one item that fails frequently in the K2 is the headphone jack, so I 
would advise having a spare on hand.


Maybe a set of K2 PA transistors (for the base K2, not the KPA100).  If 
the diodes in the KPA100 or KAT2 are hit by static and the power control 
goes to maximum, the base K2 PA transistors will fail if that condition 
is not recognized and operation is not stopped until the condition is 
corrected.


If the K2 is old, yes the AF Gain and other potentiometers can become 
'scratchy', and since they are sealed, there is no other cure but 
replacement.  If the K2 serial number is less than 3000, make sure the 
Alternate AF Gain Wiring Mod has been installed (and replace the AF Gain 
pot at the same time).


A few 1N5711 diodes can be handy especially if you are not diligent 
about disconnecting the antenna when not in use and static from the 
antenna feedline takes out the diodes in the wattmeter (KPA100, KAT2 or 
KAT100).  For those who do disconnect the feedline(s), be certain to 
short between the feedline center conductor and the shell to discharge 
any accumulated static charge before connecting it to the K2 ANT connector.


Other than that list, I can't think of any K2 part that fails 
frequently.  As Murphy says, if you have the part on hand, it will not 
fail!  Other failures involving ICs and transistors are not common. 
However, if you have an older KPA100 (with red toroid cores at L15 and 
L16), I advise you to install the KPA100UPKT mod and also the shield kit 
KPA100SHLDKT.


If you do not have the current K2 firmware 2.04 MCU 1.09 IOC, you might 
want to upgrade it and save the old firmware ICs in case of a 
catastrophe, but that is not a frequent failure either.  Serial numbers 
below 3000 do require wiring changes for the sidetone source when 
upgrading to the 2.04 MCU firmware.  If the KIO2 or the KPA100 has been 
installed, those wiring changes have already been installed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 3:25 PM, Brian wrote:

I saw a message on 'another list' the other day which was a reply to someone who was 
thinking about getting a K2 kit while they could. The reply said... "inferior 
parts.. get spare variable resistors etc."   I am assuming he means 
potentiometers...
Anyhow, I'd not seen or heard much about this 'you gotta replace this stuff in 
a year' kind of view.
Since I DO have a couple K2 rigs... would I be advised to get a few critical 
parts to take them into the next decade or two? They probably have more than a 
decade on them already.
I must admit that in the VERY early days I asked Eric how long we might expect 
the microprocessors to last? Meh, never been an issue nor has anything else in 
them, for me at least, luckily perhaps. Or the norm

I realise nothing 'lasts forever' but since almost every thing I have is 
getting on... and some are pushing MY age from late 50's and early 60's circa 
some things can last a long time.
In any case, any wisdom on what to get on the shelf and have at hand while it 
is possible?... or don't worry and if the time comes just say a fond farewell? 
Or will I not care if and when a K4 finally landed here sometime (not thinking 
about thatyet).

Having Winter fun on CW here...hope you are too.
Brian VE3VAW

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

2020-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jonathan,

That is a great discovery. Yes, if U5 was getting hot it would be 
dragging down the 5 volt supply and causing U1 to not function.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 12:18 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

Don,

Z1 is resonating away, but in the course of verifying that, I noticed
that the U5 op-amp was getting hot to the touch.  I replaced it, and
now all is working normally.  Perhaps it was loading down the 5V
supply excessively.

I'm guessing that U5 made the ultimate sacrifice in the same incident
that zapped D1 and D2 some years ago.  Apparently this has happened
before, because I see that I had installed an 8-pin DIP socket for it
:)

Thanks again for your help!

73
Jonathan K1RFD




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

2020-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jonathan,

Yes, replacing KAT100 U1 would be the prudent first step.  But if you 
can, first determine if the resonator Z1 is providing clock pulses to U1 
pins 13 and 14.  Without those clock pulses, U1 will not be functional.


If you have a local ham who also has a KAT100, see if you can swap U1 
from his KAT100 to see if U1 is the problem in yours.


If you do not have a local who is willing to swap, then your best bet is 
to order both the firmware and the resonator from Elecraft.


OTOH, if you have a 4 MHz resonator on hand, try replacing Z1 first to 
see if it comes back to life.  The resonator is inexpensive, but the 
firmware IC is costly.


When the firmware is working, it will be recognized by the K2, 
regardless of any other problems that may be present with the KAT100 
operation.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 10:49 AM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

Thanks Don.

I had the same thought about U1, but unfortunately the symptoms remain
after re-seating it a couple of times.

Regarding AUXBUS, I believe continuity is good, since a logic probe on
the KAT100 side shows activity when certain K2 controls are
manipulated such as Power, Tune, and Band. It is "high" at all other
times. I checked this all the way to pin 40 of U1.

Should I conclude that the next step would be to replace U1?




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

2020-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Johnathan,

Since the KAT100 is not recognized in the K2 menu, you either have a 
problem with the KAT100 firmware, but do check the cable for continuity 
of the AUXBUS signal that is used to communicate among the various 
pieces of firmware ICs throughout the K2 system.


Since the KAT100 has not been in service for a while, it may be that 
there is oxidation on the KAT100 firmware IC pins.  Removing and 
reinserting the firmware IC may bring it back to life by wiping away any 
oxidation on the pins.


As for the LEDs, that is also controlled by the firmware IC, so fix the 
firmware problem first, and then you can find any problems that remain.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2020 11:13 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

I am testing my KAT100, which had been sitting idle for a number of
years.  It is connected to the K2/100 via the DB9 cable as described
in the KAT100 manual.  The two are interconnected with a coax cable
and Ant1 is connected to a dummy load.

1. Apply power to KAT100.
2. Turn on K2/100.
3. Almost immediately, all LEDs on the SWR bar graph illuminate, the
S-meter bar graph on the K2 goes full scale, and both remain in this
state.  The receiver is silent. (There is no indication of any output
power, as if it were transmitting.)

Pressing the ANT1-2 button on the K2 produces the "not inst" message.
Turning off the K2 power, all LEDs on the KAT100 remain illuminated.
With KAT100 powered off, K2 functions normally.

I have verified the wiring of the DB-9 cable.  What's the next best
thing to check?

Thanks
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Cur

2020-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Johnathan and all,

Actually it is not negative feedback for power control, but it is a 
closed circuit control loop providing positive control of the power level.
The actual power is measured at the KPA100 output and the result is sent 
to the MCU (via the VRFDET signal line) where it is compared with the 
requested power setting.  The result of that comparison is used to 
control the level of BFO injection in order to regulate the power output.


When the KPA100 wattmeter diodes are faulty, the MCU thinks there is low 
or no power output, and ramps up the drive to maximum.  The result is 
uncontrolled maximum power output.  If operated in that condition for 
some time, the base K2 PA transistors will be stressed and will 
eventually fail.  That condition also causes distortion, especially 
noted in SSB transmissions, but also increased IMD on the transmitted 
signal because the base K2 PA transistors are no longer being operated 
in a linear fashion.


With the KPA100 in the circuit, the KAT100 power sensing is not used, 
and the KAT100 wattmeter is used only to light the SWR indicators.
The KAT100 wattmeter is used if the KPA100 is not present.  The KAT2 
wattmeter is used if neither the KPA100 or KAT100 wattmeters are not 
present.  In the basic K2 (without the KAT2 or KPA100 or KAT100), there 
is an RF Detector to measure the power output, but that detector is 
dependent on the load - a 50 ohm resistivity load is assumed by the MCU 
calculation of power so it will not be correct if the load is other than 
50 ohms non-reactive.


So that is the story of how the K2 controls the power output.  The K1 
and K3/K3S use a similar system.  As far as I know, this system of power 
control is only used by some commercial transceivers and most other 
amateur transceivers simply let the operator control the drive level or 
provide only a fixed drive level.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2020 10:15 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

Don,

Thanks for the tip -- that was exactly it. I checked and replaced D16
and D17 and all is well now.  (Both were showing the same voltage drop
in both directions.)  I gather from your description that the built-in
wattmeter forms a negative feedback loop with the power adjustment.

My diodes and I are definitely static-challenged -- I have had a
similar problem at least twice in the KAT100 despite my best efforts
to remember to disconnect the antenna after operating.




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Cur

2020-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jonathan,

The normal cause of that HiCur message is a failure in the wattmeter of 
the KPA100.  Re-alignment will not help.


To test for that possibility set the power knob for about 50 watts, 
connect an external wattmeter and a dummy load.  Then go Keydown and see 
what the actual power output is.  If it is in excess of 100 watts, then 
that is proof that the KPA100 wattmeter has a problem.


The most common cause is that the diodes D16 and D17 have been damaged 
by static from the feedline, so replacing D16 and D17 is the first step 
in attempting to correct the problem.  Check again for actual power 
output with the power set for 50 watts after replacing those diodes.


If you still have a problem after replacing those diodes, I can help 
with further troubleshooting.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2020 9:15 AM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

K2 #2462

I just upgraded the KPA100 from Rev A to Rev D, and installed the
upgraded shield, under the philosophy of "better late than never" :)

I am noticing two problems, when connected to a 50-ohm dummy load:

1) In TUNE, the display briefly shows "Hi Cur", followed by a strange
power/SWR indication such as "7 5.0-1"
2) At any setting above 10W, the Power knob seems to have no effect --
the wattmeter always reads approximately 100W output.  This is true
both in TUNE and in CW.

The actual power output appears to be about 100W, when measured with
an external wattmeter (although a bit low on 10M).


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Re: [Elecraft] KTCX03-1 txco installation

2020-01-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
The black foam is only for protecting the pins during shipping - it is 
NOT the insulator that you want.


Look for a thin flat rectangular piece of plastic - that is the 
insulator that you want.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2020 2:18 PM, Don Sayler wrote:

Hi.

  


I'm installing the 1ppm txco in my K3S.

  


I'm not sure I understand this part of the instructions:
"Place the rectangular insulator over the TCXO leads so it covers the bottom
of the oscillator module."

  


Does this mean that the black foam insulator goes between the TCXO and the
KREF3 board? Does the insulator go such that it is 'parallel' to the TCXO,
or at a right angle so the insulator sticks out a little on the sides? Do
the TCXO leads poke through the insulator?

  


I read the instructions before I ordered the part, and I thought that it
would become clear once I had the unit in my hands.


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Re: [Elecraft] Time Date Update

2020-01-01 Thread Don Wilhelm

K3 Utility should not be used through an intervening virtual port.
Instead close the virtual port and connect using the real COM port.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/1/2020 11:19 AM, Larry (K8UT) wrote:
Is there any way to open the com port to the radio at a specific baud 
rate, rather than the utility's baud rate trolling method? Trolling for 
port speed fails when using an intervening virtual port device.



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Utility Terminal window for CW

2019-12-31 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ingo and all,

The characters entered with the keyboard will be perfectly formed,
If entered via paddles, bug ot hand key, they may not be perfectly 
formed and may not be decoded properly.

This is a tool that can be used to practice your sending.

73 and HNY,
Don W3FPR

On 12/31/2019 7:48 PM, Ingo Meyer, DK3RED wrote:

Hello David,

I'm enjoying and getting a lot out of our CW discussion.  I've tried 
to use the KX3 uUtility for practice sending CW.


p. 60 of Fred Cady's big, excellent Elecraft KX-Line book says I 
shouldbe able to use the Terminal window of the Utility to display the 
text of the CW I'm sending, but I've never been able to get it to work.

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Re: [Elecraft] CW skimmer

2019-12-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Morgan,

The K4 (any version) will not run software apps like Skimmer, you will 
need to run that on your shack computer.


While the K4 does contain a processor and a version of an operating 
system, it is used for dedicated K4 functions.
I would compare it to my fileserver box which runs on a Linux version. 
I can access it via a browser for setup operations, but I cannot load 
and run any other applications on it, it is dedicated to performing its 
fileserver tasks.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/29/2019 10:33 AM, Morgan Bailey wrote:

Is one able to run CW skimmer on a K4. If so what model is best suited for
this the K4 or K4d? Or should i use an RSP2 with out board computer
dedicated to doing skimmer with the skimmer software?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
As Bob has pointed out,  power drop is not the factor in the voltage to 
an Elecraft transceiver.


No matter what the supply voltage may be, the K2/K3/K3S/KX2/KX3 will 
attempt to produce the output power requested by the power knob setting. 
 Those transceivers actually measure the output power rather than the 
drive level as is done by many other transceivers.


The problem is that the transmit IMD increases as the voltage drops, so 
running with a higher voltage results in a cleaner signal on the air.


Of course, if you are an "all knobs right" operator, you may notice a 
bit of a drop in the maximum power available on some bands.  Instead of 
114 watts, you may get only 95 or 100 watts, but that is extreme.
I recommend that you do not set the power knob above 100 watts in any 
case.  Use the maximum setting only for testing into a dummy load.


The difference between 114 watts and 100 watts is only 0.57 dB and will 
not be noticed on the far end of the transmission.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/28/2019 5:32 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

It is not quite that simple.   Power drop is not really a factor.

The operating range of the radio, from specifications,  is 11 volts 
minimum to 15 volts maximum.   Thus with a 4 volt operating range, a 1 
volt drop represents a 25% change.  Within this range of 11 to 15 volts 
the radio will attempt to deliver 100 watts by demanding the required 
amount of current from the power supply. Thus the three resistances in 
series example, as I stated earlier, with the middle one {radio} being a 
variable value.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Better precision than a battery can be found by using a precision 
voltage regulator.  Take a look at the Precision Voltage Source on my 
website www.w3fpr.com.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2019 5:53 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
A simple reality test for a volt meter is to measure a fresh battery. 
Zinc/carbon or Alkaline should show about 1.56 volts. (I learned this 
test from the bias setting instructions for a Dynakit Stereo 70 
amplifier. They built the amp so the test point read 1.56 volts when the 
bias is correctly set and suggested calibrating your meter with a 
battery. In that era, the zinc/carbon battery was what ran almost all of 
the flashlights (torches for for English speakers) in the world.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 12/23/19 at 11:30 PM, rmcg...@blomand.net (Bob McGraw K4TAX) wrote:

A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station.  Use it to 
determine if the others are accurate.  There are several good brands 
available.   A DVM that is not accurate is worse than no DVM at all.
My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77.   After I tapped it with 
too much voltage, I sent it to Fluke for repair and calibration.  I am 
confident when I make a measurement it is accurate without question.

-
Bill Frantz    | The first thing you need when  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | using a perimeter defense is a | 16345 Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | perimeter. | Los Gatos, CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Key Out Jack Not Working

2019-12-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Pete,

Check the Keyout jack with your ohmmeter.  One lead to the center 
conductor and the other to the shell.
During receive, it should read infinite resistance, and when you go to 
transmit, the resistance should go to near zero.


Do you have anything else connected to the KEYOUT jack (an amplifier 
perhaps)?  If so, you will have to use isolating diodes for the amp and 
your relay for the antenna.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2019 6:12 PM, N4ZR wrote:
I'm trying to set things up so that I can disconnect my 160M transmit 
antenna whenever I'm receiving, to prevent noise coupling into my RX 
antenna.  My thought is to use the Key Out jack on the K3 to control DC 
to a relay at the base of the antenna,  floating the base of the 
inverted L unless PTT is asserted.  The lashup is complete, and works 
when I short the phono plug manually, but not when I plug it into the 
KEY OUT jack and energize PTT.


I'm hoping it's just a menu issue, but my manual doesn't show any menu 
options affecting the Key Out Jack.  I have a KPA-1500, and Low Power 
Key Out via the ACConnector works fine for controlling the amplifier, so 
I assume the basic functionality is OK.  Any advice?  I'd really love to 
get it going for the Stew tomorrow!

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Re: [Elecraft] Can I use an XV144 Transverter with my KX2?

2019-12-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Thorsten,

The XV144 will work with the KX2 - it needs only the KEYOUT signal from 
Ring 2 of the ACC jack (or the the RCA jack on the KX2 to KXPA100) and 
coax from the KX2 ANT jack.


Set the XV144 up as shown for a Non-Elecraft transverter with a single 
coax input as shown in the XV144 Owners manual.


73 and HNY,
Don W3FPR

On 12/26/2019 12:05 PM, Thorsten Fricke wrote:

Merry Christmas everyone, hope you have received some nice presents ;-)

Maybe a silly question, but I didn't find anything in the manual and
would like to be on the safe side. I may be able to purchase a used
XV144 Transverter and would be interested in using it with my KX2 (only
in my shack at home). There needs to be some dip switch settings done
before using the Transverter, but as the manual is only mentioning the
K2 and K3, I am not sure on whether using K3 settings are appropriate or
whether I need to use another setting (and which one).


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Re: [Elecraft] Using KAT-500 without BAND Information

2019-12-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

If by "hit the TUNE button", you are referring to the TUNE button on the 
KPA500, those results are completely understandable.


Changing bands on your transceiver is not communicated to the KAT500 yet 
- (it will only be communicated when you provide RF to the KAT500).


So the KAT500 will not switch bands and will attempt to tune on the 
wrong antenna initially.  Once the KAT500 senses RF, it will know that 
the band is not correct and will switch to the proper antenna for the 
band in use.


In your second scenerio, you are providing RF to the KAT500 first and it 
will behave properly, so use that sequence.


You should not have any problems with the KPA500 if you have the keying 
cable run correctly - from the transceiver to the KAT500 and then from 
the KAT500 to the KPA500.
The KAT500 interrupts the keying line to the KPA500 so the tuning is 
done only with the exciter power level.


73 and HNY,
Don W3FPR

On 12/26/2019 9:39 AM, Tom KG3V wrote:
I am using a KAT-500 Tuner with an ICOM IC-7600. I am not providing BAND 
data, which is in line with recommendations for connecting this radio in 
the Elecraft manuals. The documents tell me that RF Frequency-sensing 
overrides all other information. I have two antennas enabled. ANT 1 is a 
vertical for 10-40 meters. ANT 2 is an 80 meter dipole. I only ENABLE 
ANT 2 for 80 meters and only ENABLE ANT 1 for all other Bands, in the 
KAT Config.


If I change Bands and hit the Tune button, KAT-500 will not change to 
the correct antenna Instead, it tries to Tune with the wrong antenna. 
The second time I hit TUNE, it will go to the correct antenna. If 
instead, I change Bands and hit the Key, the correct antenna is 
selected. That is fine on CW, but not great for other Modes. Is this a 
bug? I don't see how this could be desirable. I think this would be 
especially bad if I have the KPA-500 powered-ON.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test Part II

2019-12-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Neil,

Your readings on the PLL range test show that Q19 is marginal.  Q19 is 
not oscillating properly at the high end of the PLL range.


The first thing to try is a small capacitor (12 to 15pF) from the source 
of Q19 to ground.  You can easily mount the capacitor between pins 1 and 
12 of U4.  You can use one of the capacitors from the K2 kit and request 
a replacement from supp...@elecraft.com


If that does not allow proper frequencies for the PLL Range Test, then 
get a replacement Q19 from pa...@elecraft.com.


Merry Christmas everyone.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2019 6:19 PM, Neil Zampella wrote:

Hi,

Started to do the Align/Test Pt II, and properly saw the correct
frequency of 12090 +/- 30 kHz.   Tried the next part to adjust the
Reference Oscillator using my other K2 as the receiver and was able to
hear the oscillator at 3999, but C22 would not adjust to a
zero-beat. OK ... so it was close for the time being, so I figured
I'd use my KX3 to verify it later.  Moved on to the range test.   The
Band- and Band+ buttons did not affect the display.

Dug into the list archives, and saw a number of messages from Don to
check the solder joints, alignment, and type of D16, D17, R19, and
L31.    I realized that somehow I missed installing R19.   So I
installed the resistor, then restarted the alignment.   This time when I
switched to CAL FCTR, the rig did not display the expected frequency of
12090, but  a frequency of 3560 or so, flickering between readings.
However, when I pressed the Band- button, it changed to a steady 12084,
but when the Band+ was pressed, back to the 3560 flickering.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
That would be a neat thing to do, but DO NOT do that on a power supply 
that is connected to anything other than the rig you are sensing from.


The voltage on other devices connected to the power supply will increase 
when you transmit on the rig to which the sense wires are connected.


Use a separate power supply for accessories.

If you need to use the same supply, you can adjust the voltage upward - 
the SS30 sold by Elecraft already has an output voltage of 14.1 volts.
Still use a separate power cable to the transceiver and another cable to 
any distribution box that you use for accessories for best results 
(lowest voltage drop when transmitting).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2019 4:23 PM, K4HYJ via Elecraft wrote:

I do use voltage sensing at the rear of the radio.  Astron supplies can be
modified easily to do this - they already have sense wires tied to the
voltage output terminals.  Basically you disconnect them there and run leads
(keep em short) to the radio.  On transmit, my K3s drops less than 1/10 a
volt.

There are a few write ups floating around on how to do this.  I installed a
switch (make before break type) on my RS-50M so I can return to "normal"
sensing.  ***WARNING*** If the external sense wires are not connected to
anything the crowbar circuit will fire!!!

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/0 Mini

2019-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
All 15 pin Y cables are not the same.  You need to have all 15 pins 
connected from end to end.  VGA cables will NOT work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2019 9:22 AM, Jim Rhodes wrote:

The ACC cable can be connected through a simple Y cable (I think I bought
mine from Elecraft) so that the remoterig box can be left connected all the
time. Or you can buy a YBox, or build your own like I did before they were
available.  As for the PTT, I put together a box with 6 parallel RCA jacks
for PTT on one side and 6 more on the other side for KEYOUT. (I have amps
for the 2 meter and 70 cm transverters.) The only other connection I need
to worry about is the serial cable. I updated the i/o boards to the new one
with the USB connection so that I can leave both the serial and USB cables
connected at all times. So no cable switching when I want to go remote. I
live in an apartment building, so my KPA500 is packed away in a box for the
time being.


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Re: [Elecraft] Reaching Across the Chronological Divide

2019-12-22 Thread Don Wilhelm
I think we need to be focusing on the personal aspect of one on one 
communications with someone who we have never met - without the need for 
the internet, Facebook or any other internet app.
It is a thrill to me to be able to have a conversation with someone new 
via ham radio.


Of course, even that element is fading out in ham radio with the 
emphasis on quick DX contacts or contest points.  Ragchewing with 
someone new to get to know something about them personally or their 
location is what gives me the thrill of ham radio.  So sad to see that 
element being diminished.


Bring ragchewing back, and I am not talking about the nets on 80 and 40 
meters, it is reaching out to someone new and telling a bit about 
ourselves and getting the same in return.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/22/2019 11:17 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


I think we already discussed that aspect, and the point is that young 
people with a technological inclination are far more likely to be 
interested in software, or robotics, or biomedical ... stuff that has 
more relevance to advancing the world and actually leading to a job.  It 
might be a challenge to bounce a signal of the ionosphere but people 
were doing that 100 years ago.


73,
Dave   AB7E


On 12/22/2019 6:52 PM, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
There is a constant refrain about "communicating with far away 
places." No doubt that has been one attraction of our hobby. For 
myself, I was never particularly interested in "communicating." For me 
it was mastery of a technical environment. Communicating was just the 
proof that the environment had been mastered. Another way of saying 
this -maybe- is technology versus sociology. There are many 
traditional activities that have been replaced by more modern versions 
[eg, horses versus cars, walking versus bicycling, bow/arrow versus 
guns]. Yet, there is still interest in the "old way," because the 
earlier challenges remain in spite of more modern solutions. Getting a 
signal from my radio, out into the ether, bouncing it off the 
ionosphere, and back down on the other side is still a challenge. 
Satellite links and the internet don't negate the ionospheric 
challenge. Perhaps engaging prospective hams in the technical 
challenges of the hobby will brings in those who like such challenges. 
Communicating may be the benny on the other side of mastery.



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 output power drop

2019-12-22 Thread Don Wilhelm

Pierre,

That may be normal behavior, the power will drop to 5 watts if either 
low voltage occurs or if a high PA temperature condition occurs.


If you are operating digital modes, I suspect that the high PA 
temperature is causing the drop in power.


Check the BAT MIN setting in the KX2 menu.  See page 43 of the manual. 
The proper setting varies depending on the battery type, and the default 
is 10 volts.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/22/2019 6:26 PM, VE2PID wrote:
Hi folks .. A question about the KX2: I saw this on other posts, and 
also experienced it in portable operations: ''The KX2 was able to pump 
out a full 10 watts of power for a little over one hour, then as the 
voltage dropped, it reduced output to 5 watts.''. So it seems to be 
normal, but is it documented somewhere in the KX2 specs?


(FYI, I use an external rechargeable 12V 3000mAh Lithium ion Battery Pack.)


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tony,

While those figures with the 10 gauge wire are good, they would be 
better if you ran the K3 power directly from the power supply rather 
than from the power distribution strip.


Each connection will have some voltage drop, so in addition to 
increasing the wiring gauge, reducing the connection points will help 
just as much.


73 Merry Christmas, or Happy Hanukkah whichever you choose to celebrate.
Don W3FPR

On 12/22/2019 10:47 AM, N2TK via Elecraft wrote:

I have been using an Astron SS-30M power supply for several years to feed
two K3's.
I use 12ga wire from the power supply to an MFJ-4012 power strip. From the
power strip I use 12ga wire to each K3. Total length from power supply to a
K3 was 8'. Each K3 is set for 100W on 30M into a dummy load.  The K3's were
tested one at a time. The power supply voltage went from 14.38 to 14.30 at
100W.
Both K3's read the same on the K3's internal voltmeter - 14.1V in receive
and 12.7V at 100W setting on the K3's. The P3 read 107W out.
Changed the cable to 10ga wire direct from the power supply to each K3.
Length of each is 7'. Same test. Power supply voltage was still 14.39/14.30.
Voltage on each K3 was now 14.2v. Key down 13.6V. So, 0.6V drop in 7' of
10ga wire.
P3 output was now 114W.

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Re: [Elecraft] Latest rumors on K4

2019-12-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Steve,

Unless the K4 is being done differently than all other Elecraft 
transceivers, the manual will only be available until after the 
completion of Field Test.

One of the purposes of Field Test is to refine the manual.

While the K4 does contain a processor, it is dedicated to the K4 and its 
functions, so don't expect anything like a PC or other general purpose 
computer.
You will be able to download firmware updates, but I don't know if a 
separate PC will be required - I expect it will, so don't throw out your 
shack computer.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/21/2019 12:26 PM, stephen shearer wrote:
OK, January is fine as it's only 10+ days away...  AND yes, Jan 31st is 
only 5+ weeks.
(Joe, I bet as a kid you had no problem waiting for your gifts at 
Christmas or other big holidays...)
what I am waiting for is the manual.  It will/should answer many of my 
questions.

Maybe before the K4 is shipped?

Like, with a LAN connection on the K4 and an internal PC (of some sort) 
will I be able to download updates direct to the K4?
or, will I need a separate PC and use the USB port on K4 to do the admin 
"stuff" ?
There are plenty of single board computers that would fit the need, if 
required.
I expect to use a SBC for FT8 and JS8, as it works nice now on my KX3 
w/amp (as needed).



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power Switch modification

2019-12-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Neil,

Yes, use that 'obvious fix' and trim the blades from the top of the switch.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/21/2019 8:42 AM, Neil Zampella wrote:

Just a heads up:

I'm putting together another K2, and planning to build this as a base
rig keeping it all low power with the battery option. I got to the
part where I'm setting the initial parts on the RF board, then plugging
in the front board, and the control board, to the RF board.

Discovered a problem with the control board not fitting properly.
Apparently the K2 Power Switch on the RF board was not properly modified
at Elecraft, or was a 'like replacement'. This switch properly had the
leads off the bottom of the switch, but also had six wire connector
'blades' at the top. These blades kept the control board from
properly fitting on the RF connectors.

The obvious fix is to flush cut the blades off at the bottom of each
where they meet the switch case.  I don't recall seeing a note about
this in the main K2 manual, nor in the latest June 2018 errata sheet.
The fix is obvious, but you don't realize its needed until you reach the
step where you're putting the three boards together.

Hope this helps others before they reach that step.

Neil, KN3ILZ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 no display & flashing LEDS

2019-12-20 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

I have not seen any replies on the reflector, however I would suggest 
that your first attempt would be to remove the Front Panel assembly and 
plug it back in.  If you have the tinned FP connector pins, plan on 
replacing them with the gold pins in the near future.


The removal and replacement action will remove oxidation from the pin 
contact points.


If you moved the K3 from a conditioned area to a cold transportation 
vehicle, that could cause problems especially if you have the tinned 
connector pins.


If you have the tin plated pins, contact supp...@elecraft.com and ask 
for the replacement gold pins.


If you have the gold plated pins and the remove/replace action does not 
fix things, you can try doing an EEINIT and then load a good saved 
configuration file.  If that does not fix it, contact 
supp...@elecraft.com for additional assistance.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/20/2019 10:23 AM, Bob Towers wrote:

This has probably been anwered already, but I haven't (yet) found the
answer on the forum.

I took my K2 and K3 to the radio club two weeks ago to help illustrate
a talk I did on Elecraft. I didn't power either up, but afterwards I
powered the K3 up when I got back to the shack and there was no display
and the 4 sets of lEDs underneath the display flashed on and off until
I powered it off. My K2 was unaffected by its trip to the club, by the
way.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Battery

2019-12-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

David and all,

The battery in the K3 is ONLY for keeping the Real Time Clock alive, and 
will last a very long time.

The memory does not need a battery.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/19/2019 1:03 PM, David Robertson wrote:

There is a battery in the K3. It is a coin cell for keeping memory alive.
If the battery gets low the K3 might indicate a low battery.


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Re: [Elecraft] THE FUTURE OF OUR HOBBY

2019-12-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ted and all,

I do not think restricting the choices to VHF and UHF gear is going to 
"save the hobby".


There are few inexpensive ventures into HF available today.  There are a 
few inexpensive CW only kits available from QRPme.com, but those are 
quite limited and are CW only.  Oh to have the Dave Benson SWL series 
back.  Those were good kits which could put the new ham on the air with 
a good receiver, but again CW only.  I do not see any equivalent today.


The QRPme kits are interesting, but being CW only, they are limited to 
those willing to learn CW.  Even a 'knock-off' of the K1 is CW only.


For potentially new hams, we hams need to have something that is viable 
for HF and not expensive.  Remember the high schooler and the recent 
college graduate who does not a lot of extra money.  I do not see many 
choices for them other than the inexpensive VHF/UHF FM transceivers, 
which work fine with repeaters, but do nothing for the HF spectrum.
I built my first transmitter of salvaged TV parts at a very, very low 
cost, but that was back in the late 1950's when such parts were 
available many for the asking at the local TV repair shop.


A used HF transceiver may the only current logical choice.

Elecraft has championed the high performance, high end market, and has 
done well at it, but that performance comes at a price.  Few beginners 
in ham radio can afford a K3S let alone a KX2, so for beginners, they 
are "left in the lurch" with choices mainly in the used gear market.


Nostalgia for 'what was' is interesting, but does nothing for the 
newcomers to HF with limited funds.  Even the era of cheap surplus 
military gear is gone.  I used to buy Command set transmitters and 
receivers for $5 each at the surplus store, and you could salvage parts 
from them to build transmitters and receivers, but those rigs are 
collectors items today and are expensive.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/16/2019 4:44 PM, Ted Edwards W3TB wrote:

More...
Although it has not happened, I have long expected June VHF and Sept VHF to
displace Field Day and then get more of those many new Techs active.

On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 3:42 PM Ted Edwards W3TB  wrote:


Yet, here is another product idea that is driven by my concern that so
many new Techs get an HT and don't develop further into our fine
hobby/avocation.
A Transceiver more significant than a Chinese cheapie for getting on other
modes in the VHF and/or UHF bands.
I do wish there were a quality-yet-simple radio for 6m/2m would be so
handy to them to discover SSB and Digital work on those bands.  CW, too.

On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 12:52 PM Jim Brown 
wrote:


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Re: [Elecraft] Installing a Sub Receiver

2019-12-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ted,

The new synthesizers give the K3/K3S a vast improvement in transmit 
phase noise, as well as improving the receive noise floor performance by 
several dB.


Both synthesizers must be the same.

I would highly recommend getting another KSYN3A board to use in your 
main receiver to match the one supplied with your KX3A.

If you anticipate using Diversity mode, it is a necessity.

If the filters in your KRX3 do not match the ones in your main RF board, 
then the new synthesizers are a MUST - the new synthesizers can work in 
diversity mode with unmatched filters, but the old ones cannot.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/16/2019 10:48 AM, Ted Edwards W3TB wrote:

I put it off for years getting the Sub-Receiver for my K3.
With the change to K4, I got a sub-receiver before they become unavailable.

The sub-receiver comes with the KSYN3A synthesizer board --- so it occurs
to me to change that board into the primary receiver and use the older one
with the sub-receiver.  That may make it easier to change out later.

I am really so impressed with the K3 receiver after about 6 years that the
new synthesizer always seemed pointless -- but now I have one anyway.


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Re: [Elecraft] New user - can't see my posts

2019-12-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

Gmail is "doing you a favor" by not showing you the posts that you have 
sent.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/16/2019 3:05 PM, NJMike wrote:

I posted a topic in the K2 section and received replies via email.  However,
the post does not show in the K2 section...but it must be visible somewhere
since I received replies.

I am new to this forum so please tell me what I am doing wrong!


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: SIGNAL LINK & Windows 10 audio output

2019-12-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Keith,

You need to change the default soundcard back to the internal soundcard 
(or anything other than the Signal Link soundcard).


It is not unusual for Windows to assign the latest installed soundcard 
to be the default.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/14/2019 8:29 PM, Keith N6JPA wrote:
I have just purchased a signal link USB device. The problem I am having 
is that every windows sound is going through the signallink USB to my 
radio. How do I not let windows sound go through the signal link USB to 
my radio transmitter? TIA



Keith N6JPA


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Re: [Elecraft] Start-up message

2019-12-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Eddie,

I have not seen an answer on the reflector.
Just use K3 Utility and you can Edit the Power On banner easily.

Are you certain you have the K3/0? - that has no transmit capability.
The K3/0 is a control head for use with a remote station.

If that was a typo and you meant the K3/10 or the K3/100, then you are 
OK and can transmit with it, no problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/11/2019 8:34 PM, WIN KS4AA wrote:
I haven't seen any instructions on how to change the startup message. I 
just bought a used K3/0 and would like to change the call to mine. HELP.

Eddie KS4AA (1st post)


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Re: [Elecraft] Wish List

2019-12-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

Yes, switching between digital and SSB modes on the KX3 is troublesome 
from the requirements imposed by the single Mic input jack and the 
single headphone (SPKR) jack.


For convience in switching between Data modes and speech modes, you will 
have to go with the K3 which has independent per mode selections.  The 
KX3 was not designed to have that same capability.
With the KX3, some form of external switching would be required to 
switch from microphone input to your digital inputs.  Attenuators in the 
PC soundcard to KX3 audio input might be requited so you do not have to 
contend with the differences in audio levels.


Such switching was not a part of the KX3 design, and you may wnat to 
upgrade to a K3 for your station instead of the KX3.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/12/2019 8:02 PM, Jim Jones wrote:

Okay, I'm a 2nd owner of a KX3 and I'm still reading and trying
To figure out all the commands and menu options. Yikes. Anyway,
I run a lot of digital, mainly on Mars circuits. What I'm finding
Is that I have to swap plugs for the mic and speaker each time I
Have to go to voice and then back again for digital. What would
Be nice to add to a wish list is to put a 6-pin mini-din connector
On the KX3. This would have a pin for Mic input, Ground, Key line,
And a line out audio level fixed level.

This would allow the end user to take his computer/KX3/Signalink
Out into the field and run digital fairly easy. This is just a
Wish for something in the future. By the way, great rig.
73
Jim

Jim Jones - N9DIX
Waverly, TN

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